Richardson, keith designing and patternmaking for stretch fabrics

Page 94

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SLOPERS AND REDUCTIONS

Misses Tall Reductions MISSES TALL STABLE KNIT REDUCTIONS

.

thwise d 1rection.

•• •• •• •• ~ • .• ••

Ml

--.....

h t any reduct1ons m leng 25o/c0 · ment because the final Zero percent smaller 1n crossw1se directiOn Wit ~u r fabrics that stretch from 0% to Use these measurements when draft1ng slopers ~mailer. except for the shoulder measure ' 9arll1ent 5 Multiply your across measurements by 0.9 5· % tit from stretching. Will have tw111 tape to stabiliZe the seam and preven Medium Large Extra La 11 Multiply by Extra Small s:a 10 14 ~ 2

1

2 3 4 5 6

7 8 9 10 11

12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23

Bust Wa1st H1p Crotch depth Wa1st to knee Wa1st to ankle Ankle Knee Front crotch Back crotch Crotch angle Nape to wa1st Back neck Back neck nse Shoulder length Across back Sleeve length Shoulder p1tch B1cep Wnst Neck Bust span Bust level

.95 X .95 .95 X

No reduct1on No reduct1on No reduct1on

95 .95 95 95 ... 95 No reduction No reduct1on

.95 No reduction

95 No reduct1on

.95 .95 )( .95 X .95 X .95 X X

No reduction

~~ > 35 '. 11 r, ~~ 4

~ ;: 13 ''• 2 ''• 3 1 'i• 16 ''• 2 '1s

'I•

4'18 7'12 24% 1'12 10 %

5 118 14 % 6 31· 10 31·

34 ''> 26' '> 37'/2 11 '12 24 ''• 41 % 8 'Is 14 'Is 2% 3 1ls 1 'I• 17 % 2 112 'Is 5 7% 24% 1% 11 % 6% 15 7 11

36'/2 28'/2 39'/2 11 31• 25'1• 41 'Is 8% 14 % 2'12 3 11• 1 'I• 17 7ls 2'12

% 5'1s 8 'Is 24 7ls 1% 12 1ls 7% 15 '1s 7 '1• 11 '1•

39'/2 31 '/2 42'12 12 25% 3/ 42 '" 8% 15 'I• 2% 3'12 1% 18% 2% 'Is 5% 8 '12 25 'Is 1% 12 '1s 8'1s 15 % 7% 11 '12

34 ';, 45 ';, 12'1• 25'1. 42 7; 8 8 7/a 15% 7 2 3/o 3 /, 1 'Ia 7 18 /a 2% 7 /a 5% 7 8 /a 25% 1'I• 13% 8'/a 15% 8 11 '/.

MISSES TALL MODERATE KNIT REDUCTIONS Two percent smaller m crosswise direction without any reductions in lengthwise direction. Use these measurements when drafting slopers for fabrics that s tretc h from 25% to 50%. Mult1ply your across measurements by 0.98, 2% smaller, except for the shou lder measurement, because the final garment Will have tw111 tape to stabi11ze the seam and prevent it from stretching. Multiply by

1 2

3 4

5 6 7 8 9 10 11

12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20

21 22

23

Bust Waist Hip Crotch depth Waist to knee Waist to ankle Ankle Knee Front crotch Back crotch Crotch angle Nape to waist Back neck Back neck rise Shoulder length Across back Sleeve length Shoulder pitch Bicep Wrist Neck Bustspan Bust level

X .98 X .98 X .98 No reduction No reduction No reduction

X .98 X .98 X .98 X .98 X .98 No reduction No reduction

X .98 No reduction

X .98 No reduction

X .98 X .98 X .98

X.98 X.98

No reduction

Extra Small

Small

Medium

Large

Extra Large

2

6

10

14

18

31 7ls 24 34 31· 11 'I• 24 % 40 71s

33 '/. 26 36'/. 11 '12 24 'Is 41%

35 '/. 28 38'/. 11 '/. 25 '1• 41 '1s

38 31· 30 7la 41% 12 25 %

41 s;. 33 '/• 44 % 12 '/• 25% 42 7/e

7'/. 13 % 2'1• 2 71s 1 16 71s 2'12

'I•

4 '1• 7 112

24% 1 '12 10% 5 31.

14%

6'1. 10'1.

8

8'!.

13'1• 2'1·

14%

42 % 8'12 14 7la

2%

3

2%

3'1•

1

1 'Ia

17 % 2'12

'I•

5

7'1. 24% 1'12 11 'Ia 6'12

14% 6 31· 10 31.

1'!. 17 718 2'12

'I•

5'1s 8 '1a 24 71a

1% 11% 7'1• 14 71a

7 11

3 12 1 'I• 18% 2% 7

la 5% 1 8 12

8 3/ • 15 3/e

2 3/• 3'/• 1%

18 7/e

2%

'I•

s%

25'1s

8'.4 25'.4

1% 12%

13 31t

8

15 118 7 318 11

v.

15.4

8 3/• 153.4

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•• •• •• •• ••

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•• •• •• ••

3 4

11 1' 1 1

1

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