Richardson, keith designing and patternmaking for stretch fabrics

Page 479

APPENDIX :

COSiiN G S HEEis

473

·s sHORT SIZE STRETCHY REDUCTIONS

MEN

d~rection without any reduct•ons 1n length

"'"'lflPf) )'our d prevent It from stretchmg the seam an ,:e Multiply Your Across Measurements By

surement, smce the final garment Will h

E x tra Small

avetw•lltoPe to stab,. Small

32S 1

2 3 4

5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23

... = ...-....

..

ller 1n crossw•se

pereent ~~:ements when draf11ng slopers for fabncs that stretch from ~~ 1direction. 7 1_,~trwse use me:cross measurements by 97, 3% smaller, except for the shoulder me~ 5%

cnest wa•sl

~~tch

depth wa 1stlo knee Wa•stto ankle Ankle Knee Front crotch Back crotch crotch angle Nape to wa1st Back neck Back neck nse Shoulder length Across back Sleeve length Shoulder p1tch B1cep Wnst Neck Chest span Chest level

X .97 X .97 X .97 No reduction No reduction No reduction X .97 X .97 X .97 X .97 X .97 No reduction No reduction X .97 No reduction X.97 No reduction X .97 X .97 X .97 X .97 X .97 No reduction

31 25 1/4 33 9% 21 7/a 39 1/a 1 8 /a 13 5/a 2 2 3/4 1 1 19 /4 2% 3/4 6 a';, 24% 1 3/4 11 6 ';, 13% 4 3/4 1 9 12

36S 35 29 7 36 /a 7 9 /a 22 1/a 39% 14 14 1 2 /4 3 1 1 /a 19 3;, 2% 3;, 1 6 /4 a3;, 7 24 /a 1 3/4 11% 7 7 13 /a 3 5 14 1 9 12

Medium

s

40 38 3;, 33 40 3;, 1 10 /a 22% 40 1/a 14 3/a 14 112 2 112 3 3/a 1 ';, 20 1/4 2 3/a 3;, 6 112 9 ';, 1 25 /a

t%

12 3/a

7'1. 14 6 3/4 1 9 12

Extra Large

Large 44

s

42 518 36 7;, 44'18 10';. 22'1. 40';, 15 t5 23; , 33;,

t%

203;, 1 2 12 7 /a 63;, 9'1• 25'1. 7 1 /a 13 8 112 1 14 /•

?'Ia 1 9 12

48S 46'n

40 3/ ..

4B 1n 10'18 22 718 41 118 15 318 15 1;, 3 4

,.,.,

211/4 1 2h '18 7 10 1/• 25'18 1718 13 718

g';.

14 112 8'1a 1 9 12

MEN'S SHORT SIZE SUPER-STRETCH REDUCTIONS

Five percent smaller 1n crosswise direction without any reductions in lengthwise direc tion. Use these measurements when drafting slopers for fabrics that stretch from 75% to 100% . Mullip/y your across measurements by .95, 5% smaller, except for t he shoulder measurement, since the final garment will have twill tape to stabl· lize the seam and prevent 1t from stretching. Extra Multiply Your Across Extra Large Large Medium Small Small Measurements By 48S 44 40S 36S 32S 3 45% 41 /• 1 1 Chest 7 3 38 34 1• 1 39 18 30 1a X .95 1 36 1a 1 1 2 Waist 32 1• 28 12 31• 47 12 X .95 24% 1 43 1 3 39 1a 1 Hip to% 36 1a X.95 32 1• 1 tO 'Is 4 10 1a Crotch depth 22 7/e 9 71a 9% No reduction 22 % 1 1 5 Waist to knee 22% 41 /a 22 1a 21 'Ia 1 40% No reduction 6 40 1a 15 Waist to ankle 39 % 1 14% 39 'Ia 1 No reduction 7 Ankle 14 1a 15 /• 3 13'1s 1 14 1• 8 X .95 8 Knee 14 1• 3 1 13'1< 1 2'1< 13 1• X .95 9 4 1 2 12 Front crotch 2 1• 1 3% 2 X .95 10 1 12 3% Back crotch 1 1'1s 3 1 2% 11 X .95 21 1• 1 1 1• 3 Crotch angle 1 1a 20 1• 1 2 112 1 12 X .95 20 1• 3 Nape to waist 1 2'/2 19 1• 'le 19 14 13 No reduction 7 2 '1s Back neck 1a 3 2% 7 14 2 1a 31• No reduction 1 631• 31• Back neck rise tO 1• 15 31• X .95 6 1/2 1 931• Shoulder length 6 1• 25% ts 6 9'/4 No reduction 25% Across back 831• 1'/e 1 1 17 8 1• 25 1a 1 X .95 131• Sleeve length 13 12 24 'Ia 18 7 t31• 24% No reduction 3 t2 /8 9 Shoulder pitch 1 1 1• 19 1 1a 12 1'1s X .95 s% B•cep 14 1• 11 % 20 7 '18 10% 7 t4 X .95 Wrist s'l2 3 6 1a 1 21 13 1• 6 1a 1'12 1 g'/8 X .95 Neck 1 1 t3 12 22 6 12 g'ls 13 1• X .95 Chest span 23 5'1s g'l• 4% 1 X .95 Chest level 9 12 9% No reduction

s


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