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CHAPTER 5
SKIRTS
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SEMI-FITTED WAIST
UNFITTED WAIST
Use the loosely fitted waist draft when the fabric does not stretch enough to allow the waist to be pulled on over the hips, such as with stable and moderate knits. For example, the waist of a stable-knit skirt is only 26'12'', while the hip is 36'·"'. The fabric will not stretch enough to allow the skirt to be pulled on over the hips:
For semi-fitted waist, find the middle of the fitted waist and the unfitted waist and draw a new hip, using the vanform hip curve. Alternatively, increase the waist by any amount that will allow the waist to fit over the hips.
increase by 100%
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Additional Waist Gath
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Your · enng desi.gn may require additional a t the wa1st. gathering For light g th · . w · . a enng, Increase th aist measurement by 50%, e original
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26 '12" + 25% (6W') ; 33'14', too small for hips of 36'/i'. Increase the waist by extending the side seams straight up, which will resu lt in a larger waist that can be pulled in with gathering or elastic.
increase by 50%
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For medium gathermg, · double the original measurement (increase by 100~ ).