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EDITOR'S LETTER

“Deep in my heart How the presence of you shines In a light to last a whole life through I recall the wonder of it all Each dream of life I'll share with you” -Patti Smith, Dream Of Life (1988) 不管你在哪個時代出生、不管你是 X世代、Y 世代還是Z世代; 你總是做過無數場夢,夢著一個你心中理想的 世界、夢著你活的精彩、夢著你生活樸實、夢 著你存在過; 但是在這個處處混亂的時代裡,許多人已經不 再相信夢想,不再認可夢想帶給人生的價值; 或許戶頭裡的數字才是真正的重要,或許社群 媒體上的爆量追蹤者才能獲得真正的滿足 ... 然而,我一直都相信尼采所說『人因為夢想而 偉大』;因此,我便希望臺客雜誌能夠繼續傳 遞不同時代得以延續的夢;這一次不是透過歌 聲,而是透過文字與影像來滋養曾經讓我們勇 敢的夢想。 在這一本以夢想為主題的雜誌裡,臺客雜誌 希 望 透 過 與 來 自 McFly 的 Danny Jones、 英國獨立民謠歌手 Jake Bugg、演員暨模特 兒 Craig McGinlay 一起再度賦予夢想價值; 並且藉由倫敦男裝週、義大利 Pitti Uomo 的 2018 春夏男裝系列,讓各位相信,仍然有一 群人在創作著屬於他們自己的夢想。

Generation X, Generation Y or Generation Z. As long as you are still dreaming, it doesn’t really matter which generation you were born in. Dream your paradise, dream your virtues, and dream your marvels but most importantly, dream to live. We often abandon our will to dream due to the anarchic conditions that plague our world. We begin to fall victims to the daunting digits sitting in our bank accounts and slaves to the number of followers we manage to muster on social media. The dream of life has never been further away from us as until now. However, it is the phrase “Men are great for the dreams they have,” by Friedrich Nietzsche that keeps me fixated on all the things I find dear to me. I believe that dreams can be continued and stay meaningful in every way, hence, through words and images we can finally embrace the courage to dream again. In this issue, TAIKER MAGAZINE explores the DREAM OF LIFE with Danny Jones, Craig McGinlay, and Jake Bugg. In addition, we will showcase the latest Spring /Summer 2018 collection from Pitti Uomo and London Fashion Week Men’s.


CONTRIBUTORS

EDITOR

GRAPHIC DESIGNER

GRAPHIC DESIGNER

Hayden, Lee

Yen-Fen, Wen

Michelle, Lin

UNITED KINGDOM/HONG KONG

TAIWAN

TAIWAN

JOURNALIST

PHOTOGRAPHER

PHOTOGRAPHER

PHOTOGRAPHER

Rémi Quentinet

Sourwhat Yun

Adam Lorens

Pietro Recchia

FRANCE

TAIWAN

SPAIN

UNITED KINGDOM



DANNY JONES Interviewed By Dylan Tang Photographed By Sourwhat Yun

1. 你覺得音樂是有力量嗎?

1. Do you think music has power? Music has so much power and is important for mankind, it has the ability to bring humans together and speak a language that we all understand without a word even spoken. It also brings us together without any judgement of sexuality, race or background. Music is ACE.

2. 被別人稱為 “搖滾樂的導師” 你有什麼 想法嗎?

2. How do you feel about people calling you a ‘Mentor of Rock n’ Roll’ ? Mentor of ‘Rock n Roll’ Eh? Well personally I’ve not heard that yet, but i will gladly take it. I’ve always been into Blues, Rock n roll and anything that touches the soul and i gladly tell my story as a mentor to see if it will encourage anyone who imagine themselves doing whatever they wanna do and want to be.

3. 你對於指導新的世代有什麼樣的心得嗎?

3. How do you feel about coaching the younger generation? Coaching the young generation is a very inspiring experience for me as i see a little bit of me in them and I’ve been where they are now, so i can relate and guide them to whatever they wanna try and become. Make it reachable and help them to believe deep down they can do it and not to give up. That goes for anyone in any line of work.

4. 你覺得現在的時代跟你的時代有類似嗎?

4. Do you think this generation is similar to yours? The next generation and so impressive, they have more doors open to them to showcase their talent and an encyclopaedia of knowledge in a search bar (Google) also an encyclopaedia of visual knowledge (youtube). It so instant these days and thats exciting but also makes it harder to be recognised as its so saturated. But if you become a master at something, there is ALWAYS and audience for a master.


的三首嗎?

5. You’ve created and sung so many songs, can you choose three of your favourites?

我 推 薦 的 三 首 歌 會 是;Shine a light,5 Colours (Live 版 ),Walk in the Sun (Live 版 )

My 3 songs would be - Shine a light - 5 Colours (LIVE) - Walk in the Sun (LIVE)

5. 你創作過那麼多首歌,可以推薦最喜歡

6. 當你在低潮時,你有哪一首歌最是最能舒緩 6. Do you have a song which always makes you feel better when you are upset? 你情緒的嗎? 通 常 音 樂 都 有 著 神 奇 的 治 癒 效 果; 我 時 常 透 過 Music in general is an amazing way to deal/cope

(Bruce) Springsteen 的 歌 來 療 癒 自 己, 而 Bon with emotions. I always resort to Springsteen to Iver 的歌則是能讓我進入深沉的思考。

7. 可以說說你年輕時的夢想嗎? 我小時候常想著有一天能夠跟 Bruce Springsteen

make me feel great and then Bon Iver for a total escape and almost meditate to.

7. What was your dream when you were young? My dream was to play the same stage as Bruce

同台演出,當我們 (McFly) 在海德公園領銜演出 Springsteen and we achieved that a few years 時,我也完成了我的夢想;我現在的夢想則是希望 ago when we headlined Hyde Park, my dream 能夠回到同個時間、同個舞台再演出一次。

now is to play on the same stage at the same time.

Clothing/ ACROSPHERE Clothing/ Erichaolic , TRANS 泉 ; Eyewear/ Daniel Wong


Clothing/ TRANS 泉


8. 在追求夢想的過程中,你有曾經發生 過什麼困境嗎?你是怎麼克服的呢?

8. Have you ever struggled when you were chasing your dream? How did you overcome it?

我在追求夢想的過程中遇過許多困難, 而 “妥協” 則是一件我必須快速學好的 事情;“耐心” 和 “堅持” 則是在這份 工作中必須擁有的基本技能。對我來說, 最煎熬的事情則是和朋友以及家人漸漸 失去聯絡,儘管我多年來嘗試著修補這 件事情,但是我並不是一個很愛用手機 的人,因此也沒什麼成效。

There has been many struggles along the way, Compromise was something i had to learn quick, Patience and tenacity are fundamental parts of this job. The hardest thing i think for me was loosing touch with friends and family which i have tried to get better at over the years. Im not great with my phone.

然而,在創作上則是有種非常奇怪的感 覺,因為我必須和其他不同的意見對抗。 我常常因為這樣感到困惑,因為當你創 作出一段很棒的音樂時,錄音室裡充斥 著美好的氛圍,你身旁所有人,不管是 製作人、經紀人、朋友或是家人,大家 都非常喜歡;但是當你發行之後,那些 聽眾沒機會感受的美好,好像就從來沒 存在一樣,反而是排山倒海來的批評以 及挑戰。 這有點像是有人打給你的家人說你的壞 話,在一開始真的非常困擾我,因為我 不知道我應該要感到憤怒還是沮喪,但 是我最後學會怎麼忽略那些不好的事情, 我相信我所做的事情都是我付出的最大 努力,我現在甚至不看那些樂評或者任 何別人寫的回覆,我只記得當我在演唱 會時以及當我們在錄製音樂時的那些美 好,而這就是我克服那些困難的方法。

On a creative note one of the strangest feelings I’ve ever had to combat was opinions. This really was confusing for me as we would work on a body of music and create a magical atmosphere in the studio and we were all on the same page even the producer, manager, friends & Family, you name it we were all buzzing about it, This untouched, unjudged piece of art made with sound was so rewarding. Then it gets release and you get a review or a judgement or a bad comment. It was like someone calling your family bad haha…. At first this really confused me, i didn’t know wether to feel angry or upset. In the end i had to learn how to ignore it and thats what i do to this day. i believe in everything i do and thats enough of me. i don’t even read reviews or write ups, i just remember the gig or the experience and stories of making an album in my head and thats how i keep it.



9. As a professional musician, could you please advise the young generation on how they could be as successful as you? “Keep the faith, work hard, don’t give up, use failure as a lesson, share your stories, but most of all become a master of your art.” 9. 身為一專業的音樂家,你會給新世代什麼樣的建 議嗎? 保持信念,努力,不要半途而廢,從失敗中學習, 分享你的故事,最重要的事情是,成為你創造出的 藝術中的主宰。




JAKE

BUGG F

rom <On my One> in 2016, Jake Bugg is no longer the same boy that we knew. Hearts That Strain showcases a more mature and focused side to Bugg that we have never seen before. Nottingham born singer, Jake Bugg, has stood under his own spotlight since he debuted in 2011. His unique voice and heartfelt songs undoubtedly place him at the top amongst the most successful songwriters in England. 》

At the age of 23, Bugg is about to release his fourth studio album Hearts That Strain later this year. It would come at no surprise that his previous tours had played a part in shaping his new album into something that better represents him now. The first song in the album ‘How Soon The Dawn’ caught a lot of attention just after its release and still continues to do so. Much to the public’s interest, the song conveyed a more matured Bugg, from his choice of chords and lyrics to his diligent image, it is safe to say that Bugg has reached new heights and at the same time, gained a sense of composure along the way.

Accomplished Man


Bugg explains in an interview that he’s “much happier with (my) latest album than the last one.” It was in his interests to record a new song whenever he had the opportunity. “As long as I can keep writing songs and playing music and travelling the world, that’s all I ever ask for.” We can presume that he just wants to make music and keep doing the things that he enjoys.

與上一張專輯相比之下,Jake Bugg 對於 這張全新專輯 《 Hearts That Strain 》更加 的滿意,因為在上一張專輯發行之後,他 只想快速的錄製下一張專輯,不能說是不 滿意,但就是不知道該何去何從。他也曾 經公開表示「出道以來的這六年,他從沒 想過要進入主流音樂市場,他只想要單純 地寫歌、唱歌以及在世界各地旅行。」

《 Hearts That Strain 》 is a milestone for Jake B u g g a n d h i s fa n s f ro m a l l ove r t h e wo r l d . Adopting a more mature and preserved image, we can see that not only has Bugg grown as a musician, but also as a person as well.

Jake Bugg 或許是更加成熟,也更了解人 生 意 義, 因 此 才 創 作 出 大 家 引 領 期 盼 的 《 Hearts That Strain 》, 一 張 具 有 里 程 碑 意義的的全新專輯。

《 Hearts That Strain 》was recorded in Nashville, the heart of countr y music, and includes 11 songs in total along with a few collaborations. A familiar sense of passion coupled with a brandnew journey is something that we can all expect from this album.

《 Hearts That Strain 》 在 鄉 村 民 謠 聖 地 Nashville 錄製完成,總共收錄了 11 首歌, 並且和許多音樂界的重量級人物一起合 作,為這張專輯醞釀出難以言喻的重要能 量。

Accomplished Man





Cover Photographed By Daniel Jaems


Craig McGinlay Interviewed By Dylan Tang Photographed By Chris Davis

1. 你喜歡時尚嗎?你覺得時尚是什 麼?

1. What do you think about fashion? Do you like fashion?

我覺得時尚是一個可以展現自己個性的

“I think fashion is important and it's a way of showing your personality. I didn't realise this until I moved into modelling 3 years ago, then into acting 2 years ago but I am amazed how my perception of fashion has changed. I was invited along to support a friends brand during London Fashion Week Mens, which at the time was known as LCM, a couple of years ago and I was not massively looking forward to attending if I'm honest, however since going along and seeing what it's all about I really enjoyed the shows and presentations. It was actually a lot more relaxed than I had anticipated it would be. I had a lot of fun, was great meeting new people and gaining an understanding of how much work the designers do in order to produce these incredible shows and presentations.”

一件事,而這是一件非常重要的事。我 開始接觸時尚是在三年前開始擔任模特 兒的時候,也是我開始擔任演員的兩年 後,從那個時候我對於時尚的感覺就開 始改變了。我開始在倫敦男裝週時受邀 去朋友的品牌站台支持,老實說,在更 早之前,我並不覺得我會開始想參加這 類型的活動。但是,自從開始接觸之後, 我就開始喜歡上時裝秀以及時裝發表 會,因為我發現我真的喜歡這樣子的事 情,而且我其實也很享受參加這類型的 活動,因為除了享受活動的氛圍之外, 我也很開心可以認識不同的人並且開始 了解到時裝設計師在舉辦一場秀的背後 付出了多大的努力。

2. 你最喜歡的品牌是什麼呢? 這聽起來是個陷阱題呢! 很多品牌我都非常喜歡,而且也很榮幸 能跟其中一些品牌合作,我並不覺得我 可以說出哪個品牌我特別鍾愛。但是我 的確在時裝週時特別喜歡穿著薩維爾街 的訂製西裝,或者有黑領結的經典晚宴 服。因為我平常穿著的風格總是靴子、 運動鞋、牛仔褲、T-shirt 和皮外套。

2. What’s your favourite brand? “Hmmm, putting me on the spot here aren't you... no pressure...... There are too many that I have had the pleasure of working with to say just one in particular. I do like wearing saville row tailoring during fashion week, or a classic dinner suit for a black tie event. My 'go to' casual look would have to be boots or trainers, jeans, t-shirt, and a leather jacket.”


Craig McGinlay Model Craig

3. Who’s your favourite designer? “Ok you are really trying to get this out of me aren't you.. There are a few brands I have worked with and who have supported my journey so I would have to say Hackett London & Chester Barrie do some fantastic suits. Even M & S are starting to produce a lot of really nice tailoring. Very impressed with the direction they are going in. Belstaff are always great for a casual look but it can still look smart too. Also, if you are looking for a good pair of socks or sunglasses then look out for London Sock Company and Finlay & Co. respectively. Both can complete any outfit. Great brands producing some quality pieces.” 3. 誰是你最喜歡的設計師呢? 好!我確定這真的是陷阱題了! 在 我 的 時 尚 旅 程 中, 有 幾 個 牌 子 我 很 喜 歡 也 非 常 支 持 我 這 一 路 路 走 來; Hackett London & Cester Barrie 總是設計出讓我驚艷的西裝、M&S也有 很多不錯的正裝,我也很欣賞他們現在的時裝走向、Belstaff 則總是可以讓你 看起來聰明幹練但是感受舒適。 而且,如果你想要追求品質非常好的襪子和墨鏡的話,我則會推薦 London Sock Company 和 Finlay & Co. 他們的產品可以搭配任何服裝,品質也非常 好,是我非常喜歡的時裝品牌。


4. Do you want to launch your own label? If so, what sort of products? “I have thought about it but not yet. Maybe in a few years time. I want to learn more and more about the industry first before taking on something like that. Perhaps a collaboration with a brand first. I think now with the combination of having modelled and also acting could bring a lot of useful knowledge to a brand so hopefully I could be integral to the development and design too. We'll see.”

4. 你想過要推出自己的品牌嗎? 會是什麼樣類型的品牌呢? 我有想過這件事情,但是我覺得現在還不到時候,或 許在等著幾年吧。在這之前,我想要再從時尚產業學 到更多東西。或許可以先從跟品牌聯名開始,我覺得 現在的階段可以透過幫品牌擔任模特兒,或者運用我 在演戲的經驗來和品牌合作,希望可以從裡到外的合 作。我們可以期待接下來會怎麼發展。


Craig McGinlay Actor Craig


1. 在電影《亞瑟:王者之劍》你擔任 了圓桌武士之一的 Sir Percival,你對 這個角色有什麼感想嗎? 我非常喜歡 Percival 這個角色,他非常忠

1. What do you think about the character, Sir Percival, that you played in the movie ‘King Arthur: Legend of the Sword’?

“It was a terrific character to play. He's loyal, but aggressive as well as also 我覺得我還有很多事情必須跟 Sir Percival very mysterious. I think there is still 學習,而這也是我現在這個階段中演出過 a lot more to learn about Sir Percival and that's why I think it would be an 非常有意思的角色。 interesting character to develop at some stage. I changed my look for the 為了演這個角色,我大幅改變了我的外表, part. Grew an enormous beard and 我蓄了大量的鬍子而且快速的訓練自己可 bulked up in muscle mass by over a 以快速增加肌肉,因為我覺得 Percival 應 stone and a half of weight. I packed on muscle fast to become the character. 該是一個非常強壯的人,所以我花了六個 I felt Percival would be bigger so I 月的時間訓練,每天吃六千大卡的食物, wanted to immerse myself into the role 非常非常多的食物。如果有第二次機會我 for around 6 months including time of 會在一樣的事情,因為我非常享受這個自 training and filming. I was eating 6000 calories per day. That's a lot of food, 我訓練的過程。 but hey, it was so much fun. I'd do it again in a second.” 誠,卻又很激進、好鬥,而且非常神秘。


2. 你比較喜歡在電視還是電影演出呢?

在不能跟你透露太多細節,但是這是由 Jeremy Renner(危機倒數、復仇者聯盟 ) 擔任製作人和

我沒有特別偏好在哪種領域演出,只要我

導 演 Debbie McWilliams 這 是 一 個 電 視 影 集 叫

相信這整個團隊、劇本和拍攝過程,那麼

做 Knightfall,我在裡面飾演一個客座主角叫做

我就可以把自己該做的事情做好,而且挑

Aldred。我現在不能跟你透露太多細節,但是這

戰許多不同的角色。

是 由 Jeremy Renner( 危 機 倒 數、 復 仇 者 聯 盟 ) 擔任製作人和 Debbie McWilliams 導演 ( 詹姆士

3. 我們聽說你在九月份有一個新的影 集,這個影集是什麼樣的故事呢? 這 是 一 個 電 視 影 集 叫 做 Knightfall, 我 在裡面客串一個反派叫做 Aldred。我現

龐德)一起合作的新戲。 Knightfall 是一個關於聖殿騎士團的故事,我們在 布拉格拍攝,對我來說這次的經驗非常的特別, 也很開心能夠參與在其中,希望這部電視影集能 夠在今年順利跟大家見面。


2. Which one do you prefer to act in, movies or in a series? “No real preference. As long as I trust the cast & crew I'm working with, trust the process, like the script, I am challenged by the character then I’l take virtually any role on.”

3. We’ve heard about your new role coming out in this September. Can you tell us a little more about that? “It's a tv series called Knightfall. I play a guest lead role called Aldred. I can't say too much at this stage but it was produced by Jeremy Renner (Hurt Locker/The Avengers) and the casting director was Debbie McWilliams (James Bond). We filmed in Prague and it's a story about the Templar Knights. It was an incredible production to be a part of and I am excited to see it when it's released onto the History Channel, hopefully this year.”


Craig McGinlay Actor Craig 4. 你的公眾形象非常不錯,你不擔心 演出壞人的角色壞影響到你的嗎? 我希望我在 Knightfall 裡演出的 Aldred 的 確是一個壞人角色,我希望他不會影響到我 太多;我當然也希望我能有演出像英雄一樣 的好人,但是我也非常興奮地能夠飾演一個 壞人,因為對我來說我總是很樂意接受不同 角色的挑戰。

4. Your public image is rather good. Do you not think that by playing a villain it will influence you in some sort of way? “Well, Aldred, who I played in Knightfall, is a bad guy so hopefully that hasn't changed me too much. I normally want to play the good guy action hero but playing a bad guy excites me too and I'd welcome the opportunity again.”

5. 從一個運動員變身成為一個好萊 塢演員,你覺得你人生有發生什麼 樣的改變嗎?

5. From a sportsman to a Hollywood actor, do you think that your life has dramatically changed? Or is it still the same?

我一直以來都是一個非常忠於自我的人;

“I am very grounded. Always will be. I will never forget where I came from and my closest friends and family as well as the new friends I have met along the way who have helped me to get to where I am so far. I have a long way to go before I get to where I want to in the industry but I'm on my way. I'm working hard and will continue to develop my skills across the board.”

我永遠不會忘記我從哪裡出發,也不會忘 記我的家人和最親密的朋友;對於曾經幫 助過我的人,哪怕是新認識的朋友也不會 忘記。在這個產業裡頭,在到達我想要的 成就還有一段距離,但是我會堅持下去自 己選擇的路。我不會輕易放棄,也會繼續 努力讓別人看見自己所擁有的一切。

6. 我 們 聽 說 你 之 後 會 接 演 “ 綠 箭 俠”的角色,這是真的嗎? 如果我可以演出這個超級英雄的話,我覺 得這會是很榮幸的一件事情,而且我很開 心我的影迷對我有這樣子的期待,但是我 現在還沒有收到任何通知,讓我們期待接 下來會發生什麼事吧!

6. We hear rumours that you are being considered for the next DC character GREEN ARROW. Is this true? “It's a character I would love to play having grown up loving many superhero characters and I am honoured to hear fans saying I would be a good option, however I can say that I have not been contacted with regards to playing Arrow. Let's wait and see..” Follow Craig McGinlay Instagram @craigmcginlay



Spring / Summer 2018

Kent & Curwen

Written By Rémi Quentinet (English ver.) Written By Dylan Tang (Mandarin ver.) Edited By Hayden Lee Kent & Curwen 今年邁入了品牌成立後的第九十一年,並不算是一個年輕的品牌, 然而,他真正的捲土而來則是在 2015 年之後;那一年貝克漢成為品牌合夥人,而 這位前運動員並不只是一個人參與,他還找來了創意總監 Daniel Kearns 一起打 造這個品牌的全新樣貌。


Kent & Curwen 91 years old, this is Kent & Curwen’s age. Not really a youngster, yet more alive and vibrant than ever since its rebirth in 2015 with the arrival of David Beckham as a business partner. The ex-football star has not come alone since another person of renown accompanies him in this new adventure, creative director Daniel Kearns.


Kent & Curwen 在 最 新 一 季 的 2018 春 夏 男 裝 裡 頭,Kent & Curwen 並沒有完全地擺脫過去,反而加強對於 過去歷史的延伸;也更加深了品牌本身的核心以 及歷史價值。值得注意的是板球系列的歷史可以 追溯至二零年代以及三零年代,但是卻在這一季 使用的摩登的手法再次出現;經典的板球毛衣使 用了大膽的手法創新,在衣服上可以看到特別設 計過磨損的邊緣,和刻意展現過大尺寸的風格; 這個感覺就像是你的一件舊毛衣,雖然舊了點, 卻因為總是讓你感覺舒服自在,而且你也對它感 到依賴而捨不得丟掉一樣。 另一方面,板球長褲的變化則是設計成較長和較 寬的樣式,讓你搭配上網球鞋時看起來更加時 髦,這樣的組合顛覆了大家對於傳統英式風格的 印象,但是你不得不承認,Kent & Curwen 的 全新系列,依然帶給你創新但是仍然保有你心中 深處英式文化的想像;沒有刻意承襲英式的剪裁 卻依然展現出英倫風格該有的樣貌。

For this new SS 2018 collection the two men haven’t made a clean slate of the past, but quite the reverse.Following straight on from the two previous collections, the references to brand’s roots are numerous. Notably the cricketing outfit that established its reputation in the 20’s and 30’s can be found there, in a revisited and modernised variant. The iconic cricket jumper takes a bold step into modernity with frayed edges and an oversized format, like this old and comfortable jumper you don’t want to get rid of because how good you just feel in it. The kind of clothes with a sentimental value that feel like home. Cricketing trousers metamorphose as well into a longer and wider iteration making it a sort of chic and audacious track-pants, worn with tennis shoes. The combination is subversive and does not hesitate to break conventions with the aim of bringing the brand into modernity without betraying the well known English-style.We all have in mind the image of a gentleman in an elegant and tailormade suit to the evocation of British style.


A matter of attitude rather than a box you are locked into. A way to impose your allegiance to a movement instead of undergoing it. And what better way to exhibit your belonging to a team than wearing badges and crests.

態度的養成在於你不畫地自限,忠誠度的表現在於你的實際行動而非單純接受。 徽章不代表一切,只有你自己能證明你從何而來。


歷史上,英國總是在服裝上給人強烈的印象,像是學院風 的制服,或者軍人穿著的軍裝都是最好的例子,不過英國 其實已經從這些刻板印象中解脫很久了,雖然那些正統的 風格仍然佔有主流優勢,但是日不落國發展出來的次文化 (摩德,龐克,滑板族)卻也在過去幾十年發展得非常成 熟。 David Beckham 和 Daniel Kearns 這個雙人組合並 沒有在眾多的風格中做出唯一選擇,反而是將它們混合再 一起,打造出追尋現代英格蘭自覺的文化特色。

Historically the country also has strong clothing conventions and it is traditional to wear a uniform at university or in the army for example. However, UK has been freed from this image for a long time now, and even though it remains predominant, the island saw many rebellious sub-culture movements(such as Mods, Punks or skaters) arise in the last decades.The duo didn’t make a choice between tradition and modernity because they are perfectly aware that Today’s England is the combination of one and the other, not simply one or the other.


春夏 2018 的系列中有著許多不同的標誌出現;從 無袖汗衫、運動毛衣到學院風西裝,這些服裝功能, 外貌皆不同,但是都有一個相同特點,這個特點也 是這次春夏 2018 最想呈現給大家的特色。紅色玫 瑰;這個經典的標誌代表的 1926 年的英格蘭,也 在歷史上代表著英國聯邦下的各個不同王朝(白玫 瑰代表約克王朝,紅玫瑰代表的蘭卡斯特王朝)。

You can observe those characteristic features on several pieces of this new collection, ranging from singlets to sport blankets to sweatshirts to Varsity blazers. They all come in different forms and shapes and sizes but have exactly the same object, to demonstrate what you stand for. The most iconic element among those badges would certainly be the 1926 Rose of England, the symbol of the union of different houses(the white rose of the house of York and the red rose of the house of Lancaster) under one English banner.


而 David Bekcham 和 Daniel Kearns 則是受到了 1948 年 Austerity Games (倫敦奧運)的 啟發;在當時,每個運動員的服裝都必須有一個代表自己國家的標誌,而英國的運動員則是使用 英國國旗當作代表符號。 這個故事告訴著我們都能夠從過去發生的事吸取經驗;因為英國經過多年無情的戰爭後,造成經 濟危機的時代,人們再也無法在選購衣服時挑選奢侈品牌;經過多年的絕望之後,他們的需求變 得簡單,夢想變得樸實,卻依然是一個愛著體育、追求自我的卓越、擁有值得自豪的價值觀,以 及擁有能夠和平面對其他運動員的國家,在經過如此悲慘的時代,英國的夢想並沒有消失,而是 代代相傳下去;事實上,在我們生活的某個時刻,我們都有夢想給予我們能夠負擔最好的事情, 給家人、給國家、給屬於的俱樂部、給團隊、給社區,給任何我們親愛的人。


The two men found an extraordinary source of inspiration when going through archive imagery from the 1948 Austerity Games in London, where British athletes had to provide their own outfits. The attire of the United Kingdom’s representatives had only one thing in common, the presence of an Union Jack badge. This is a perfect example of the lessons we can learn from the past, from an era of economic crisis which resulted from years of merciless war, where people couldn’t afford the luxury of being picky when it came to getting dressed. After years of total despair they probably had simple needs, and simple dreams, representing a country that stood up proudly for its values and confronting other athletes peacefully, for the sole love of sport and self-transcendence.


儘管如此,1948 年 已經離我們非常久遠了,我們現在可以負擔更多東西,而不僅僅是一個旗幟所帶來的希 望。我們期待著我們衣櫃充滿實用和舒適性,而 Kent & Curwen 的最新系列滿足了這一項需求;大學圍巾、 網球短褲、長條紋襪子、膠底帆布鞋、可拆卸領襯衫和寬敞的風衣;這些服裝雖然看起來有著復古的風格, 不過卻是在現代穿起來依然摩登的設計款。 David Kearns 和 David Beckham 在 2018 春夏男裝使用了一個簡單卻有效的方法;像是驗證哲學、使用 了具有深度意義的符號、一抹實用主義,加上一些天份,便創造出具有魔力的最新時裝。

But those dreams haven’t disappeared, they have been passed down from generation to generation to be carried by contemporary competitors but not only, because these values are universal. Indeed, we all have, at some point in our life, dreamed of giving the best of ourself to represent our family, our country, our club, our team, our community or anybody that is dear to us. Nevertheless, 1948 is far away from us now and we can thus afford to expect more from clothes than just being a flag bearer. We await practicality and comfort from our wardrobe and many pieces of this new collection respond to that demand. College scarves, tennis shorts, long striped socks, plimsolls, detachable collar shirts and wide lapel trench coat confirm that this set might be inspired by the past, it is definitely made for the present. David Kearns and David Beckham came up with a simple but fiendishly effective recipe. A bit of proven philosophy, some deep and meaningful symbols, a touch of pragmatism, a good dose of talent, and the magic works.


Spring / Summer 2018


John Smedley Precision/Fluidity Written By Dylan Tang Edited By Hayden Lee


John Smedley 首場時裝 秀

“ Precision/ Fluidity 最新一季的春夏時裝系 列,John Smedley 表現 出了明確的精緻流暢時 尚; 甫 從 秀 前 的 等 待 進 場 開 始, 每 個 人 都 帶 著 期待並且尊敬的心情準 備 這 個 從 1784 年 就 成 立 的 時 裝 品 牌; 你 永 遠 不知道在那個浮世繪線 條 背 板 的 後 面, 將 帶 給 最新一季男裝什麼樣的 風貌。 Precision/Fluidity 是 John Smedley 春夏男裝的主題;在這一場男女裝混合的時 裝秀上,流動性的線條,似乎成為帶動氣氛的主要條件,從白色、藍色到紅色, 日式風格的線條表出溫溫儒雅的氣氛;但是卻在服裝剪裁的細節上重重的表現出 強而有力的創新風格。


John Smedley

John Smedley 在最新一季的服裝中推出了領口以及襯衫的剪裁新樣貌,不管在男裝還是女裝都表 現出這個歷史悠久品牌想要突破創新的決心;除了展現創新的企圖心之外,高品質的材質選用也不 能輕易忽視;高級的美麗奴羊毛,以及絲質面料都是這一季想要特別強調的重點;身為針織起家的 品牌,John Smedley 在面料選擇上依然是箇中好手。 對於 John Smedley 而言,時裝秀的舉辦與否都不是最重要的要素;如何傳達出品牌著重的生活美 學才是主要訴求;除了山水浮世繪的設計、和服風格的領帶,以及襯衫上的錦鯉,都是秀場上表現 出完整 John Smedley 生活美學的關鍵要角。 John Smedley 的春夏 2018 時裝秀,不僅展演出完整一套的細膩氛圍,更將歷史要素重新呈現; 品牌成立後的首場時裝秀,不僅讓人眼睛為之一亮,更讓人徹底佩服 John Smedley 能夠在一場秀 的時間完整地表現出品牌自己的生活美學。

P r ec isio n/F lu idity


I

n the latest collection from John Smedley, the British fashion house presents fashion with a fluid elegance. Prior to London Fashion Week 2017, spectators were curious with high expectations of what was on hold behind the blue Ukiyo-e. Fluidity is the theme of John Smedley’s Spring/ Summer 2018 catwalk. The show was not just for menswear but catered womenswear too. A boundless aura of character permeated the room, greatly enhancing the vibes of the show. From the white to blue and blue to red, there could be no mistake that this was the work of John Smedley. Introducing a brand-new collar design along with an exciting change in shirt patterns present in both menswear and womenswear, we can observe how John Smedley effortlessly showcases his new collection with a pristine yet characteristic elegance.

Known exquisitely for their knitwear, it is no doubt that John Smedley's choice of fabric were the main centre of focus during the show. Extrafine Merino wool and Japanese influenced wild silk prints are the signature elements from this collection.


John Smedley " Precision/ Fluidity "



Sgt. Pepper's Lonely Hearts Club Band

2003 年, 滾 石 雜 誌 將 披 頭 四 的 《Sgt. Pepper's Lonely Hearts Club Band》專輯選為當代前五百名最佳專輯之一,而這張由英國 利物浦傳奇樂團在 1967 年發行的專輯,今年已經邁入了第五十個 年頭,這張專輯除了對流行音樂造成影響之外,更成就了文化、音 樂以及藝術上的交流。


Written By Rémi Quentinet (English ver.) Written By Dylan Tang (Mandarin ver.) Edited By Hayden Lee

In 2003, Rolling Stone Rock’nRoll’s reference magazine ranked the Beatle’s Sgt. Pepper's Lonely Hearts Club Band album number one in its list of the "500 Greatest Albums of All Time". The highly iconic album from the native band of Liverpool was originally released on the 1st of June 1967 and as a result of this, celebrates its 50th birthday this year. Its impact sparked a revolution, bridging the gap between pop music and culture, and legitimate art.


現在,如果有個品牌想要為這張經典專輯設計一 整個系列的服裝,那麼這個牌子就必須得是英國 本土的品牌、而且由國際搖滾巨星所創辦;Pretty Green 毫無疑問地符合全部的標準。 創 辦 人 Liam Gallagher 曾 經 說 過:「 我 很 榮 幸 Pretty Green 能夠在披頭四的專輯《Sgt. Pepper's Lonely Hearts Club Band》一起合作,這個樂團 不管在音樂還是時尚裡頭,總是不斷的啟發著我。」 事實上,這張專輯造成的影響不僅在流行音樂歷史 的擔任了關鍵的要角,它造成的漣漪更超過音樂的 層面,直接影響著社會並且造成了當時的社會現 象。 這張專輯最具代表性的就是封面的設計;由藝術家 Peter Blake 和 Jann Haworth 所設計的封面中,披 頭四的成員們穿著鮮豔的軍裝,而這也成為 Pretty Green 設計師在這次系列中 - Pepper Jacket 的靈 感來源;設計師在設計上使用了穩重的黑色,並且 讓他從原本封面上的秀服變成日常生活中真正的實 穿的外套,雖然經過了一些調整,但是依然保持了 原本的樣貌和特色;像是立領、肩章和帶有軍事風 格的刺繡。

Now if you had to imagine a brand able to create a clothing line dedicated to this masterpiece, you could not have asked for a better candidate than a label founded by an internationally recognised rock musician and, moreover, native from Great Britain. Pretty Green was an e vident partner for this collaboration and, in the words of Liam Gallagher: “It’s been an absolute joy to do a collection in honour of the 50th anniversary of The Beatles’ Sgt. Pepper’s Lonely Hearts Club Band for Pretty Green as The Beatles have been a massive inspiration to me, both for music and fashion.” Indeed, it is undeniable that Sgt. Pepper’s influence, a keystone in music history, went beyond music to influence society as a whole by being exactly in tune with the times.


Sgt. Pepper's Lonely Hearts Club Band

The most representative symbol of this capacity to transcend rock and get a universal aura is the album’s cover, designed by the pop artists Peter Blake and Jann Haworth. On this cover you can see the four members of the group wearing military-inspired colourful uniforms that led Pretty Green designers to one of the most distinctive pieces of this collection, the Pepper Jacket. They kept the shape and main attributes of the original such as a Mandarin collar, working epaulettes or intricate military embroidery, while making it more convenient and comfortable for an everyday use as well as less eccentric with its sober plain black colour.


另一方面,上衣的部分則是塑造出對於軍裝制服的直接 想像,除了有特殊設計的領口外,更是直接地使用了金 色的刺繡來加深視覺效果,但是這個封面帶來的靈感可 不只如此,在這次的聯名系列中,包含 T-Shirt 和其他 單品上,都有許多細膩而且富有致敬意涵的設計巧思。 其中在單寧外套上看似簡單卻錯綜復雜的 “披頭四” 玫瑰刺繡字樣,則是啟發於專輯封面下半部優雅卻有強 烈個人風格的花雕設計;Jann Haworth 當初使用這種 手法是為了迴避市面上總是充滿著平淡無奇的字體設 計,而事實證明,這個高明的手法在五十年後,Pretty Green 再次的運用並且維持當年的精髓。在其他的單品 上,則是簡單展示了專輯封面,並透過向上延伸的天空 藍,創造出浩瀚無垠的視覺效果。 紫 色 毛 衣 上 的 印 花 設 計, 使 用 著 跟 玫 瑰 刺 繡 一 樣 的 概 念; 大 大 的 印 上《Sgt Pepper lonely hearts club band》的文字,就像是當時披頭四巡演時印在鼓上的 標記,;簡單,卻簡潔有力的表達創新與致敬。


There also exists a shirt variation of the uniform consisting in a more straightforward style with gold tone embroidery and a grandad style collar. But those pieces are not the only treasures the design team had managed to extract from this goldmine cover. The capsule collection includes several items sporting elements of the rich in detailed artwork. A basic yet beautiful “Beatles” rose embroidery is shown popping out of a classic denim base, imitating the arrangement of pink flowers that form the band’s name at the bottom of the initial artwork gives a subtle yet elegant extra personality to the logo. Jann Haworth originally came up with this idea in order to avoid the bland lettering usually imposed, and 50 years later PG is proving to us once again that a once brilliant concept can remain timeless throughout the ages. Another piece simply features the artwork as a whole, displayed on the T-shirt in its entirety with a blue base acting as an extension of the sky present at the top of the initial picture. The print, in the same spirit as the “rose” embroidery, can be found on a plain purple jumper featuring the “Sgt Pepper lonely hearts club band” logo. The same logo that was stamped on a drum skin, sitting in front of the Fab Four on the illustration. A good example of a simple but not simplistic creation.



六零年代的氛圍承襲在這個系列的其他單品上;襯衫上裝飾著花卉圖案和旋轉對稱性的印花(其中更明顯的標 上 “All you need is love”的字樣)透過形狀和顏色地相互搭配讓你感受不到不同組合間的界限,更代表著這 數十年來流行文化的運動;而大衣和之前提過的丹寧夾克,因為使用了線條的元素、不同形狀得徽章、品牌和 樂團 Logo、披頭四的插畫、鮮花以及文字,為這個系列的概念作了最好的總結。 最後,不得不佩服 Pretty Green 成功的將五十年前革命性的作品做出了最完美的呈現,而品牌執行長 Richard Ralph 也表示:“因為 Pretty Green 是披頭四的粉絲”;因此當歷史成為你致意的對象時,你傳達出的主要 元素也都符合你的期望,那麼這就表示你的熱情成就了這一切。

Some other pieces are more like descendants of the 60’s vibe in general, becoming the heirs of the attitude and way of life born yesterday. Shirts emblazoned with floral motifs and swirling symmetry (one of them even has “All you need is love” words integrated within its pattern) make them worthy representatives of a global cultural movement initiated decades ago where shapes and colour combinations knew no boundaries, where eccentricity became the norm. Two particular items seem to sum up this unconventional side of the collection, a parka and the denim jacket we mentioned earlier. Both stand as patchworks made of elements from the rest of the line, spangled with badges of different shapes and form featuring logos, beetle head illustrations, flowers and letters. In the end, it is impressive how Pretty Green managed to capture the essence of a revolution led 50 years ago, and it is not surprising that Richard Ralph, CEO at Pretty Green, considers it: “As a company of Beatles fans”. When a homage is rendered to a major element of our cultural history and it is up to your hopes and expectations, then you can tell it has been made with passion.


Christopher RÆBURN x SAVE THE DARK Spring/Summer 2018 為世界負責

A Recycle Movement.





Spring/Summer 2018

J.W.Anderson

J.W. Anderson Spring/Summer 2018 為自己設計

Not For Les Autres.

NOT FOR LES AUTRES.







Nigel Cabourn Spring/Summer 2018 不論 Sean Flynn 發生何事

Whatever Happened To Sean Flynn.





Blood Brother Spring/Summer 2018 登入未來

LOGIN to the Future.





Edward Crutchley Spring/Summer 2018 歷史借鏡

Britain’s history reflection.



Edward Crutchley. Britain’s history reflection.



Edward Crutchley


歷史借鏡 “ Britain’s history reflection . “


Mihara Yasuhiro Spring/Summer 2018 #BLANKMIRRORS,現代社會的諷刺

An ironic way to the modern world.



Mihara Yasuhiro #BLANKMIRRORS An ironic way to the modern world.



Mihara Yasuhiro


“ An ironic way to the modern world .” #BLANKMIRRORS,現代社會的諷刺


BELSTAFF Spring/Summer 2018 PARIS to DAKAR,史詩級的冒險 PARIS to DAKAR, the epic adventure



BELSTAFF PARIS to DAKAR, the epic adventure.



BELSTAFF


“ PARIS to DAKAR, the epic adventure.” PARIS to DAKAR,史詩級的冒險


Spring/Summer 2018

TOUURNE DE TRANSMISSION ‘ THE LIES THAT BIND ’

這裡有一道隔板,一片細薄隔板; 我們卻因此看不清人生 』

There is a layer, a veneer on life that we are not meant to see through





Spring/Summer 2018

SONGZIO ‘ CROSSING VEILS ’

在光芒裡,尋找屬於自己的男性光輝 Man, in his night, searches for his own light.


Crossing Veils


SONGZIO


Man, in his night, searches for his own light. 在光芒裡,尋找屬於自己的男性光輝


Spring/Summer 2018

BERTHOLD

A study of masculinity and conflict. 關於男子氣概的研究





Charles Jeffrery


沒有邊界的自由國度

“ No more boundaries, we live in a society of freedom . “


Spring/Summer 2018

D. GNAK ‘ Inevitable Interaction’

所有萬物源自此,皆在因緣下碰面 The origin of the Universe, everything convokes at Yin-Yuan.





Spring/Summer 2018

John Lawrence Sullivan

後龐克的冷酷態度 POST-PUNK ATTITUDE AND COLD WAVE SCENE.



JOHN LAWRENCE SULLIVAN



Katie Eary Spring/Summer 2018 來自設計師的回憶, 揮灑青春街頭的私密時裝 Undoubtable persona, her own streetwear-obsessed adolescence collection.



Katie Eary Undoubtable persona, her own streetwear-obsessed adolescence collection.





Michiko Koshino Spring/Summer 2018 當代的 Contemporary and historic aesthetics



Nicolas Daley 'MADRAS' Spring/Summer 2018

反主流文化運動中的時尚文化探險 A celebration of counter-cultural movements in cross-culture fashion exploration .





Pietro Recchia

London Photographer 透過鏡頭發掘倫敦 EXPLORE LONDON THROUGH HIS LENS




London Pride 2017


Adam Lorens 'Focused on dreams and desires. A female embodiment of those.' 專注在慾望與夢想;女體的化身

Photographer Adam Lorens Model Aila Weng






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