FASHION
04
05
07 ISSUE
CONTENTS 010
COVER STORY 012
Through History, He Speaks His Story
Freedom. The theory I always believe in
Be Strong And Never Regret
INTERVIEW 048 To complete your life you need to without boundaries
054 Freedom or Liberty?
060 Life is a movie yearning for freedom
The Path Of LIFE
WATCHES
FASHION EDITORIAL
070
084
Men’s Nostalgia and Fetish
Chronology
WHISKY STORY
FASHION
076
092
Thistle, A Symbol Of Scotch
Seeing the Future of Fashion in a Crisis 07
09
EDITOR'S NOTE
We all hope that we can do more than in the past, right? We a l l e x p e c t t h a t o u r f u t u r e c a n a c h i e v e something, right?
San Ko _Photographer, Taiwan
Adams Chang _Photographer, Taiwan
Fred Feng _Editor, Taiwan Ken Huang _Editor, Taiwan
Shuian Hsu _Graphic Designer,Taiwan
11
GET ON THE ARK OF FREEDOM
13
COVE R STORY T E X T D y lan Tan g P HO T O S Daniel K e ar n s
THROUGH HISTORY, HE SPEAKS HIS STORY
14
15
COVE R STORY
16
17
COVE R STORY
18
"It’s time to go back to basic s and clear away a lot of the noise"
19
COVE R STORY
20
" Think outside the box"
"How to define Nostalgia of Liber t y ?"
21
COVE R STORY T E X T D y lan Tan g P HO T OGR A P H Y S an K o FA SHION F r e d F en g M A K E UP S t ar Chen
FREEDOM, THE THEORY I ALWAYS BELIEVE IN
by Kent & Curwen
22
23
COVE R STORY
24
by Bottega Veneta
25
COVE R STORY
26
Q: A s a s in g e r, how woul d you in t e r pr e t t he global pandemic? A:
Q:Do you think this happened this year because of everything that humans did in the past? A:
Q:Do you think everyone on Earth is free enough? A:
27
COVE R STORY
Q: What does freedom mean to you? A:
Q:Do you have t he ha bi t of look in g b ac k a t the past? A:
" The past can help us under stand the present and imagine the future"
by Louis Vuitton
28
29
COVE R STORY
BE STRONG AND NEVER REGRET
30
T E X T D y lan Tan g P HO T OGR A P H Y Adam s Ch an g FA SHION F r e d F en g M A K E UP Min g Chen H A IR Joe y Chen
by Salvatore Ferragamo
by Longchamp
31
COVE R STORY
32
by Longchamp
33
COVE R STORY
"When an oppor tunity comes, what attitude you use to face it will create what kind of per son you will become"
"Recog nising the true value of life"
"Music is my outlet to release stres s"
34
35
COVE R STORY
by Longchamp
36
by Salvatore Ferragamo
by SPORT b.
"Never look back , don't worr y about ever y thing done in the past"
37
COVE R STORY T E X T D y lan Tan g
LIFE, IS A MOVIE YEARNING FOR FREEDOM
38
39
40
41
COVE R STORY
"If Birdy is like a cat, then Chang Jia-Han is like a dog."
" True freedom is to do what you want to do"
42
43
COVE R STORY
44
"...I'm a more nostalgic per son like I like Koji Tamaki's music..."
"My future is a bit like an anime stor y because I want to change the world!"
45
PEOPLE IN T ERVIE W T E X T D y lan Tan g P HO T O S K ir k Tr um an
48
To complete your life you need to be without boundaries
49
PEOPLE IN T ERVIE W
50
by Kirk Truman
51
PEOPLE IN T ERVIE W
"Freedom is to be able to completely control one's life"
"As long as someone is willing to let me take pictures, then I will never stop"
"K nowing your self can solve ever y thing easily"
52
53
PEOPLE IN T ERVIE W
54
Freedom or Liberty?
T E X T D y lan Tan g P HO T O S Rober t S p an g le
55
PEOPLE IN T ERVIE W
56
57
PEOPLE IN T ERVIE W
by Oberserve Collection
58
"Liber t y is a qualit y in a societ y that has tolerance for the freedom of its people."
"Fashion has also become ver y vocal and politicised"
59
THE PATH OF LIFE
T E X T D y lan Tan g P HO T O S S te w ar t B a x ter , Ch ar le s E n g elken , F r an Mc C onnell , P a v la Dolan s k a , S ine ad F er g us on
60
61
PEOPLE IN T ERVIE W
62
63
PEOPLE IN T ERVIE W
"Creative people are ver y resilient, and more of t en than not we thri ve and make our be s t work during ex treme situations."
"fashion and music go hand in hand. It helps shape the culture you are living through from decade to decade."
64
"Life is too short, this pandemic has conf irmed that s o le t's embr ace the r aw pas sion of the world and learn to respect each other and love one another so going f or war d we c an all s ur v i ve in har mony." Maz, LIFE
65
66
67
68
69
WATCHES T E X T K en HUA NG
TEXT PHOTO
70
MEN’S NOSTALGIA AND FETISH
Ring s through time past
71
WATCHES
01
72
Track lig hts 02
73
WATCHES
The Legend against the Storm
74
The Modern Aristocracy
01
02
75
WHISKY S TORY T E X T D y lan Tan g P HO T O S
THISTLE, A SYMBOL OF SCOTCH
76
77
WHISKY S TORY
78
79
WHISKY S TORY
Thistle, A Symbol Of Scotch
The Highlands, seen through histor y
80
Plain and breez y enjoyment
Magnificent achievement
Live out your own colour s
81
82
83
S T YL ING F r e d F en g P HO T OGR A P H Y S an K o M A K E- UP L eeL in H A IR Chi L in MODE L Ch an g Chia Hao
84
85
by Sandro
by Fendi
86
by Gucci
87
88
by Paul Smiths
89
90
by Sandro
by Louis Vuitton
91
FASHION T E X T F r e d F on g P HO T O S
SEEING THE FUTURE OF FASHION IN A CRISIS
92
93
FASHION
LOUIS VUIT TON
A Journey Acros s The Univer se "In a pure land that humans have never set fo o t i n a n d h ave n eve r s e e n b efo re, I w ill build a wo rld of abstract dre a m s a nd wait for your arrival. "As a leading fashion brand Louis Vuitton, its founder, lived in the former residence of Asnières in the suburbs of t h e S e i n e R i ve r i n t h e n o r t h we s t o f P a r i s . With its histor y of more than 10 0 years, the brand concept of " travel " has been spread worldwide through fashion. Virgil Abloh, t h e m e n s w e a r c r e a t i v e d i r e c t o r, c r e a t e d a group of colour ful car toon characters na m ed " Zo o o o m a nd Frie nds" t his se as o n. These surreal giant inflatable characters were transpor ted to major fashion cities fo r ex hibitio ns in Lo uis Vuit to n c o nt ainers. The colour ful and childlike images of t h e s e c h a ra c te r s a l s o b e c a m e o n e o f t h e inspirations for the collection’s looks. Virgil also created 2 5 looks made of recycled materials, and 25 looks from the past season. Trying to make consumers reflect on the waste caused by production.
94
DIOR MEN
Por traits from the Memor y of Africa The creative director of Dior Men, Kim Jones has spent his childhood in Africa; Botswana, Tanzania, Ethiopia and Kenya. He used the abundant culture and nature of the African continent as inspiration while at Louis Vuit ton. In Dior Men’s S S21 collection, Kim J ones continues co operation with dif ferent ar tists in ever y season. T he bright colours a n d h e a v y b r u s h s t r o ke s f r o m t h e A f r i c a n G h a n a i a n a r t i s t A m o a ko B o a f o, c o m b i n e s with the brand’s iconic sailor stripe, silked oblique embroidered motif, and hand e m b r o i d e r y f r o m t h e Ve r m o n t A t e l i e r. A l l showing strong emotions in the por traits. This collection can be regarded as a sincere, frank and all- encompassing cultural exchange, as well as a per fect ensemble of fashion design and African culture.
95
FASHION
CELINE
Falling Angels with a Dancing Soul A l t h o u g h t h e U . S . b a n o n T i k To k a n d p o l i c y d e c i s i o n s a re s t i l l u n c l e a r, i t i s a n indisputable fact that this short video social m e d i a s o f t w a re w i t h h u n d re d s o f m i l l i o n s of users wo rldwide will have an impact o n t he new generatio n of te enagers. A s e arly as December 2019, Noen Eubanks, who has m o re t h a n 10 m i l l i o n f a n s o n T i kTo k , a l s o inspired the brand's spring summer 2 0 21 m enswe ar c olle ctio n " T H E DA N CI N G K I D ". H e d i S l i m a n e ’s s i g n a t u r e r i p p e d j e a n s have been bleached and faded to show the unique charm of the sub- cultural generation. Animal patterns, psychedelic tie-dye colours, sequin decorations and design symbols are cleverly multi-layered. The c o mbinatio n sh ows a self- liberatio n image that is dif ferent from previous "gloomy young pe ople". F ollowing the catchy music of the Canadian rapper T I AG Z, the S S 21 C E LI N E menswear shines with youthful brilliance in The Paulo Riccar track, Marseille, France.
96
The Eternal Theme of Elegance " This is an opportunity to show "what I want the audience to see". “ When you are in the show, you will look at the clothes, shoes or a c c e s s o r i e s . B u t a s a d e s ig n e r, I h ave to k n o w ex ac t l y w h at I wa nt t h e au di e n c e to s e e." H e r m è s' m e n s we a r c re a t i ve d i re c to r
HERMÈS
Vé r o n i q u e N i c h a n i a n s a i d . H e r m è s S S 2 1 menswear collection presented in a brand new vision in the form of a completely live broadcast, with all the details that the designer hopes the audience will n o t i c e i n e i g h t m i n u t e s . W h e t h e r i t ’s t h e c o m m u nic at i o n b et we e n t h e d e sig n e r a nd the model, or the of f- camera moments while models are waiting or having fun backstage, it is fully presented to the audience through the angle of “behind-the-scenes” shooting. "Three, two, one, go!" The smooth movement of the camera records the silhouette and details of this collection. The light fa b r i c s a n d s u m m e r y c o l o u r s a re cl eve r l y integrated into the unique printed clothing, in a seemingly casual way and elegant atmosphere, presenting the unique charm of Hermès.
97
FASHION
GUCCI
Not Another Fair y Tale of Fashion As we have become accustomed to the regular fashion week schedule, the breakout o f C OV I D -19 h a s f o rc e d t h e i n d u s t r y to embrace a groundbreaking revolution to respond to pro mpt demand on the market. Alessandro Michele is the creative director a nd " in n ovato r " of G u c ci, a n I t a lia n b ra nd w i t h n e a r l y 10 0 y e a r s o f h i s t o r y. H e h a s always pulled o u t all the stops to pro m ote systemic reform. In AW 2 0 fashion show the preparations had moved from backstage to the front. And for the latest show of Cruise 2 0 21 ' Epilogue', the design tea m members who have never been seen before beco me m odels fo r display in this c olle ctio n. Fro m t h e m o d e l ' s m a k e u p, d r e s s i n g , a n d l i g h t set tings for photo shooting, to the 5 minute fa s hi o n s h o w. T h e p ro c e s s o f a s h o w becomes a 12 - hour live broadcast, through a diversified social media platform, which is also another way of “ deconstructing” this industry’s fairy tale.
98
SALVATORE FERR AGAMO
The Origins of the Legendar y Shoemaker Since the outbreak of Covid -19 all over the world, time seems to have stagnated, and no one knows when lively fashion show will be held again. Because of the current situation, M il a n D igi t a l F a s hi o n We e k wa s a l s o h e ld online for the first time. Salvatore Ferragamo traces the brand's history through an emotional narrative video "Shaping A Dream" from a villa on a beach in Tuscany. W ith the perseverance and courage of the brand founder to pursue his dreams and face challenges, the collection reflects the h u m a n i s t i c c re a t i v i t y b ey o n d t h e l i m i t s o f time. " Even before the lockdown, we planned to take the modernist Nordic st yle furniture design in the mid- centur y as inspiration. Inspire d by nat ure, t h e d e sign u s e s cl e a n lines, organic materials, minimalist structures and relatively few decorations. T he appeal is very consistent with our current restricted s i t u a t i o n .� B r a n d c r e a t i v e d i r e c t o r P a u l Andrew said.
99
FASHION
PR ADA
Back to the S tar t S i m pl e, U n ad o r n e d a n d P u re. I n S S 2 01 2 , Prada reorganised these concepts and implemented them in this collection. Not just a journal of returning concepts, the simpleness and the charm of silhouettes from t h i s c o l l e c t i o n , w i l l n eve r g o o u t o f s t y l e. With the gradual change to a sof ter colour, t his c o lle ctio n e nds up w it h ic o nic sp o r t y, leisure fabrics and st yle. In the neat, well fit ting and distinctive men's silhouet te, the c o mbinatio n of traditio nal suit fabrics with inn ovati ve P rada ny l o n a nd elastic, brings out a completely dif ferent appearance. With the same fabric, Wo menswear brings back the haute couture silhouette and showcases the craf tsmanship of the tailors. T he Linea Rossa series released simultaneously. Based on leather, cotton, taf feta and other fabrics, t h e c o n c e pt of f u n ct i o n is m o re i m p o r t a nt than form. Showing a more light, transparent and comfortable way of dressing.
100
LOEWE The Show in the Box When shows cannot be held, creative de signers c a n al ways find ingenio us ways to publish new collections. S how in a B ox, wa s j o i n t l y c o n c e i ve d by LO E W E c re a t i ve director Jonathan Anderson and M/ M (Paris), w i t h t h e l e t te r s f r o m t h e d e s i g n e r, c o l o u r and fabric cards, plus clothing pat terns and records, etc. Different media allows the release of the spring summer 2 0 21 fashion show to transcend the limitations of time and space and reproduce them in front o f o u r eye s . D e p l o y i n g a s to r y o f c u r ve s , swings and loops, the artistic contour lines redefine the fashion appearance of c o n t e m p o r a r y m e n . T h e b r a n d ’s i c o n i c woven handwork and deconstructed design e l e m e nt s a re a ls o u s e d in slip - o n l o afe r s, drawstring backpacks, or basket totes and the multifaceted Puz zle. It brings a bright a nd d y n a m i c r hy t h m t h at is di f fe re nt f ro m the appearance of sculptural clothing.
101
FASHION
RAEFOUND BY CHRISTOPHER RAEBURN Fully Equipped for the New Era
" H o w c a n w e b e m o re r a d i c a l t h a n d o i n g nothing? " Christopher Raeburn, a designer from London, England, poses this question to the fashion industr y in the post Covid-19 e ra . W i t h t h e bra nd's n ew pro du ct bra n ch R a efo u n d, t h e d e s ig n e r t r i e s to c h a ll e n g e and advocate for the concept of "sustainable d e v e l o p m e n t ". W i t h C o v i d -19 s w e e p i n g t he wo rld, t he fashio n indust r y is facing a more severe sales and inventor y crisis than eve r b efo re. A ll t h o s e d e sign e r s b e gu n to reflect o n the devast ating da mage caused by excessive production, consumption and wa s te. R a efo u n d, w h i c h o r igi n ate d f ro m a series of clothing made with parachutes in 20 09, purchased unused and nonseasonal militar y clothing from Europe, and reinterpreted the "militar y st yle" with its unique view.
102
QASIMI
Culture Tradition & New Look for Elegance T he British menswear brand Qasimi, as its f o u n d e r K h a l i d A l Q a s i m i p a s s e d away i n 2 019 a n d t h e b ra n d i s fa ci n g a n u n k n o w n f u t u r e s i t u a t i o n . F o r t u n a t e l y, h i s y o u n g e r sister Hoor Al Qasimi took over his business for the first time, determined to give it a new st yle by reinvigorating the brand to c o m m e m o ra te K h a l i d 's w o n d e r f u l l i fe a n d rich design source. In this season, H oor b r i n g s t h e n ew id e a s i nto t h e b ra nd w i t h bold and innovative designs, drawing inspiration from the Bedouin's Al Sadu (g e o m et r i c we av i ng) a nd s u c c e s s f u ll y completing her first clothing collection. She was also inspired by homewear, such as Al Sadu, which was used in home accessories such as tents, pillows and carpets. Combined with bomber jackets, accessories and trousers in Middle Eastern colours. It is not only comfortable and traditional, but also full of rela xation and is low-key.
103
FASHION
HENRIK VIBSKOV Rise from the Ashes
O riginating fro m his fascinatio n with " fire", H e n r i k V i b s ko v, a t a l e n t e d d e s i g n e r f r o m Denmark, was inspired by a burning motorcycle he saw in Copenhagen. The spring summer 2021 collection titled The H o r s e p o w e r Ta k e a w a y t r i e d t o u s e a d i f fe re n t w ay to re f l e c t t h e p r o p o s i t i o n o f " f i re ". T h e a p p e a r a n c e f o r m e d by m e l t i n g or burning materials is presented in special jacquard fabrics. Clothes printed with flame pat terns are reminiscent of volcanic ash or the hot sun. Maintaining a consistent loose line on the outline of the clothing, and not deliberately shaping the figure or stacking complicated clothing items, lets the wearer have a conversation with clothing in the m o s t " n a t u r a l " w a y. T h e o r g a n i c c o t t o n , recycled polyester fiber, Tencel, and 75% of the fabrics and auxiliar y materials such as linen and virgin wool in the series are also sustainable. Henrik Vibskov used his usual humour to construct, in his mind, a Garden of Eden tribe that worships fire.
104
JW ANDERSON
S tay In, S tay stylish Compared with the classic sense of poise and elegance in JW Anderson's w o m e n s w e a r, c r e a t i v e d i r e c t o r J o n a t h a n Anderson brings a more slouchy feel to the men's spring and summer collection of 2 0 21. In the "ex traordinar y period " when t he C ovid -19 is spre ading, t he re strictio ns brought by extreme conditions have s t i m u l a t e d m o r e c r e a t i v i t y. T h i s s e a s o n' s menswear is full of fun and has the atmosphere of celebration. The designer found a comfortable place between pragmatism and play ful concepts. The el e m e nt s of circula r vo lu m e a pp e a r in t h e details of clothing, the outline of the body, or add to the basic clothing as decoration. Faded denim tailored into a patchwork coat, long knit wear has a home -spun immediacy, and the pattern on fabric all create the impression of a comfor table family atmosphere.
105
106