Footwear Plus | January 2023

A r e y o u r p r o d u c t s d e l a y e d g e t t i n g o n t h e d i g i t a l s h e l f ?

A r e y o u m a n u a l l y s e t t i n g u p y o u r n e w i t e m p r o d u c t t e m p l a t e s ?

D o e s t h i s i m p a c t y o u r a b i l i t y , a n d c a p a c i t y , t o k e e p u p w i t h y o u r d i g i t a l n e t w o r k g r o w t h ?

S y n d i c 8 c a n a l l e v i a t e y o u r d a t a s t r u g g l e s b y i m p l e m e n t i n g o u r D a t a M a n a g e m e n t , S y n d i c a t i o n , a n d V e r i f i c a t i o n S e r v i c e s .

Steven J. Resnick Vice President & CFO

One Maynard Drive Park Ridge, NJ 07656

Tel: (201) 571-2244

Advertising: Belinda. Pina@Wainscotmedia.com

Editorial: Greg.Dutter@ Wainscotmedia.com

CIRCULATION

One Maynard Drive Park Ridge, NJ 07656 Tel: (201) 571-2244 Circ@Wainscotmedia.com

The Good News

NUMEROUS STUDIES SUGGEST that consumers increasingly want their purchases to be a force for positive change, be it environmental, social or charitable. The younger the demographic, the higher the desire that part of the price they pay for goods—from everyday household items to one-of-a-kind keepsakes—be channeled altruistically. It’s a growing movement that could amount to trillions of dollars and do tons of good.

Some call it kinder capitalism. Others describe it as effective altruism (E.A.), a social movement that advocates figuring out ways to benefit others in need as much as possible. Could a tectonic shift in consumerism be underway? Are consumers seeking better brands en masse? Can they find them? Can they trust them? Or is this just wishful thinking?

What started with environmental concerns over the past decade has spread to a myriad of social issues, accelerating in the wake of the Black Lives Matter movement and the pandemic. Billions of consumers worldwide have reassessed their priorities. Concerns like community service, sustainability and equity now rank at the top, while fast fashion and status symbols have plummeted in popularity. But just being green isn’t good enough. Consumers want the brands they buy to be good corporate citizens across the board: in terms of planet, products and people.

Numerous studies reveal that when presented with a choice between two similar products of comparable price and quality, most consumers will choose the brand with better corporate citizen cred. Again, the younger the generation, the likelier that is to happen. A recent NPD study showed that 83 percent of Gen Xers are even willing to pay more. A recent Harris Poll found the majority of consumers surveyed will not compromise on their principles, and 39 percent would boycott a favorite brand if its values no longer met their standards. Similarly, Gen Z, the largest generation on Earth at 2.87 billion, is reportedly three times more likely to say the role of business is to serve society, and more than 50 percent believe companies have a greater responsibility than the government to address social problems. These statistics can’t simply be brushed aside.

Brands should be forewarned, though: Consumers can—and will—sniff out poseurs. Making false or misleading altruistic claims (greenwashing and cultural appropriation) can result in worse fallout than doing nothing.

The green police and cancel culture cops are constantly on patrol. The website Truth in Advertising, for example, currently lists 47 companies accused of greenwashing since 2018. An accusation can be devastating, even if you’re innocent. And, thanks to the internet, such scarlet letters live in perpetuity. Wishing for a stigma to disappear won’t work, as evidenced by a growing graveyard of the canceled. Just ask Kanye West. Or Adidas, which is still making desperate efforts to distance itself from him. According to the Harris Poll, consumers are quick to spread the bad word: 28 percent tell their friends and family about brands that don’t match their values and 15 percent will vent on social media. Being bad at being good just isn’t good for business.

Despite consumers’ desire to buy from brands that are genuinely good corporate citizens, is the concept possible on a grand scale in a capitalist society? Is good, for lack of a better word, good? Will shareholders accept fewer dividends so companies can do good? Time will tell.

These are fair questions to ponder. It’s one thing to buy loafers from brand X that claims to plant Y number of trees or champion LGBTQ rights. That’s a relatively easy investment for most consumers to make. Forfeiting potential earnings is a whole different ballgame. And wishing for social impact to become the dominant business model isn’t enough. Consumers must continue to support the shift with their wallets. It will also take courage, commitment and investment by company leaders to embrace such fundamental change.

Manitobah’s CEO Greg Tunney and Chief Impact Officer Sean McCormick, the subjects of this issue’s Q&A (p. 10), are two such leaders. Both are firm believers that companies with a strong social impact component, like theirs, will not only survive but become the norm in the years ahead. McCormick has 25 years of proof that a company really can deliver, having built the mukluks brand on a commitment to supporting Indigenous communities through employment, education and representation. As Manitobah has grown, so has its ability to make an impact in Indigenous communities. It’s a win-win. The duo’s vision to expand the company into a global lifestyle brand while growing its support of Indigenous communities is an inspiring read. Manitobah is blazing a trail as a for-profit/for-good business. Tunney and McCormick’s sincere wish is for companies to follow suit. There’s strength in numbers, not to mention plenty of worthy causes in need of help.

As a new year dawns (on the heels of a few spectacularly dismal ones), a commitment to making the world a better place should top everyone’s list of resolutions. Wishing you a happy and healthy 2023!

Greg Dutter Editorial Director

White Hot

White beats the heat at Miami Art Week.

By Marcy Swingle

Syndic8 to the Rescue

THINK OF SYNDIC8, a Boston-based product content management platform, as the ultimate assistant, one that works tirelessly behind the scenes to make sure your business runs seamlessly and more profitably. Like a great assistant, it does a lot of the dirty work that makes the company shine. Specifically, Syndic8 oversees enormous amounts of data that must be uploaded to the digital shelf space frequently—be it DTC, retail channels or marketplaces—and free of errors or glitches that, if not caught, can result in massive lost sales.

That’s what happened recently with one of Syndic8’s clients, a Western boot brand. One of the brand’s major retail partners had input the wrong inventory code, a typo that resulted in its entire collection not being listed on the retailer’s site, despite goods being available. Fortunately, Syndic8’s verification services detected the mistake quickly—and the boot brand estimates it saved $750,000-plus in potential lost revenue. In a word: Whew!

Cofounder and CEO Chris John describes Syndic8 as both an efficiency play and a revenue enhancer. Its secret weapon? It eliminates the huge potential for human error on both ends of a partnership. Such errors arise because manually entering and overseeing data (commonly in the form of detailed spreadsheets) is labor-intensive and time-consuming. It can involve thousands of SKUs, sizes, pricing and individual product details. Making the task even more daunting is the fact that each retailer has unique data protocols. Errors can cause myriad problems, from consumers receiving the wrong style to entire collections being inadvertently omitted from a site. Weeks can go by before a mistake is detected, and every passing hour means potential lost sales. In an uber-competitive business with tight, seasonal windows, failing to stay on top of the data is asking for a heap of unnecessary and costly trouble.

John says he doubts it’s possible for any human being to efficiently manage so much complex, changing data manually. Take the data for a single Converse All Star SKU, which must be uploaded by color, size, material, etc. “It amounts to a ton of information that can be missed or entered incorrectly,” he says. “Our software does all that work, and we’re also constantly scanning to make sure products are available.

“We’re replacing what for many companies is still a manual process that can take up to 10 people performing tasks over and over,” he explains. “Syndic8 centralizes the data, automates the delivery and constantly verifies that it’s correct.”

Syndic8’s benefits apply to retailers, as well. “They have the same challenges brands do in that they have to consume data efficiently,” John explains. “Yet many still use multiple variations of spreadsheets. We eliminate those time-consuming steps and ensure that all their brands’ data meets their specifications.” Syndic8 also monitors inventory, checking where it is in the supply chain, and if available styles can be featured elsewhere on a site.

Syndic8’s ability to deliver error-free data to wholesalers and retailers

makes it an ROI enhancer for everyone involved, according to John. First, the platform ensures that brands appear on the digital shelves of their current retail clients. Second, the data Syndic8 provides creates potential for brands to increase their number of online partners. “Usually, when we meet with a potential client, the brand is dealing with up to 10 retail partners. We can bring that number up to 30-plus pretty quickly thanks to sending accurate, high-quality data,” he says. “Delivering such data means you’re selling more goods overall, be it direct, through existing retail customers or new partners.”

Since launching in 2018, Syndic8 has gained such respected companies as Genesco, Twisted X and Rockport as clients. And case studies confirm that the technology delivers on its promises. Still, the company has faced formidable headwinds, including the pandemic, record inflation, fears of a recession, and the challenge of introducing a new technology to an industry historically skeptical of the unknown.

“Even if the price isn’t scary—and ours isn’t—they’re reluctant to embrace new technologies that they don’t understand at first,” says John, who successfully pioneered several efficiency software companies in the financial services industry. Nevertheless, he remains confident that the footwear industry will embrace Syndic8. “Amid a tough economy or possible recession, people need to think differently, and often they become more receptive to new ideas as a way to survive,” he says. Along those lines, John believes Syndic8 can help companies maintain revenues in difficult times. “One way to stay neutral, rather than dropping 10 percent in this climate, is by making sure you’re efficiently selling through the digital channel,” he says.

With its ability to expand the digital shelf, Syndic8 can be a powerful tool in navigating the evolving landscape of the footwear industry—one that has seen an accelerated shift to online shopping, supply chain disruption and changes in the way many retailers are buying as a result of economic uncertainty. Last year, for example, inventory was scarce; now there’s a worrisome glut. John predicts retailers will increasingly shift the financial burden onto wholesalers via drop-ship arrangements. “Having more digital partners can help alleviate inventory concerns,” he explains, citing a growing number of alternative sites that don’t degrade brands—like Home Depot, Tractor Supply and, especially for younger generations, social media platforms that are quickly morphing into marketplaces.

“The digital tier is only going to become more important going forward, and that’s data that must be entered properly and monitored in real time,” he predicts.

Those interested in Syndic8’s services can log onto syndic8.io for more details. The process of gathering, verifying and uploading data takes up to four weeks, then it’s off to the races. “Syndic8 improves operations, expands the digital shelf space and enables wholesalers and retailers to sell more products,” John says. “It’s a win-win-win.”

Syndic8 streamlines and safeguards online inventory management.

CEO Chris John explains how the data software provider is a life saver.

Atlanta Show Expands to Meet Rising Demand

February edition to be the biggest in its 79-year history.

IT WILL TAKE a Fashion Village for The Atlanta Shoe Market (TASM) to accommodate the exhibitor demand for its upcoming edition—the largest in the show’s 79-year history—at the Cobb Galleria Centre (Feb. 18-20). The new section, housed on the main floor near Skechers, will feature 30 brands, 22 of which are international and first-timers at TASM.

The brainchild of Show Director Laura Conwell-O’Brien, the Fashion Village will be in addition to the 181 exhibitors in the show’s existing upscale zone. It’ll feature the same plush white carpeting and signage vibe. “It sold out within four hours,” she reports, noting that an adjacent hotel ballroom was not an option. “That wouldn’t be good exposure for first-time exhibitors,” she says. Instead, Conwell-O’Brien reworked the floorplan to incorporate more exhibitors. “I cannot fit one more booth in this space,” she says. “We completely sold out by early December.”

Conwell-O’Brien attributes TASM’s growth into unofficial national shoe show status to consistency. That spans location, timing and events, such as the free Casino Night and Cocktail Reception (Feb. 18, 6-9:30 p.m. at the Cobb Energy Centre) and the NSRA seminar (Feb. 19, 7:15-8:45 a.m. at the Highlands Room in the Renaissance Hotel). This year’s seminar, “It’s Time to Turn Your Frustrations into Freedoms. The Framework for Clarity and Communication,” will be hosted by Pete Mohr, creator of the podcast, Simplifying Entrepreneurship.

Affordability remains another TASM priority for exhibitors and buyers, according to Conwell-O’Brien. That includes booth rates, set-up costs and subsidized buyer lunches, among other expenses. “We’re a non-profit organization,” she says, noting the show will be 40 percent bigger than the Aug. 2019 edition. “We’re the largest footwear show, regardless of what other shows might be claiming.”

After years of finding clever ways to accommodate more exhibitors (63 new ones in total for this upcoming show), it begs the question: Can TASM still grow? The answer is yes, and much of it may be apparel brands in adjacent hotel ballrooms. “Apparel has a lot of potential growth for footwear buyers, and I believe many would make the short walk to shop that collection,” Conwell-O’Brien says. That could be this August—provided she can gather 30 to 40 brands to exhibit. “I won’t just sell space to a few,” she says. “It must be meaningful for exhibitors and buyers, and I’m confident we can.”

In the meantime, Conwell-O’Brien keeps doing what’s she’s done successfully for 42 years: “Organizing a big yet small-feel show with a great vibe.” Looking back on TASM’s growth and the adjacent environs, like Truist Park and The Battery entertainment district, she says it’s become a great destination. “We’ve grown together,” Conwell-O’Brien says. “We’ll keep the good mojo going to do what it takes to make a great show.”

Q&A

BY GREG DUTTER

DEEP IMPACT

Manitobah CEO Greg Tunney and Chief Impact Officer Sean McCormick are leading the mukluks brand into the lifestyle stratosphere—all while supporting Indigenous communities across North America every step of the way.

SEAN MCCORMICK WAS way ahead of his time—25 years to be exact. That’s when the entrepreneur, a member of the Métis Nation, founded Manitobah Mukluks, makers of handmade winter boots that Indigenous people living in the Canadian Arctic have been wearing for 10,000 years. And while making a style that’s been around for millennia isn’t visionary, McCormick’s business model is—namely, a strong social impact component that has been a cornerstone of operations since day one.

“We’ve created a unique and forward-thinking model that combines traditional business metrics for success with a meaningful social impact component,” McCormick says. “They’re completely entwined; it’s part of our corporate DNA.”

The result is a form of effective altruism, which is defined as a social movement aimed at benefitting others as much as possible. Companies that put people and concerns like protecting the environment above profits, or at least on equal footing, are part of this burgeoning movement. But back when Manitobah Mukluks (now shortened to Manitobah) debuted, McCormick’s intentions were more limited in scope. The young exec, who sold leather and fur during high school and later established a trading post where Indigenous artisans could trade their handmade mukluks and moccasins, envisioned broader market potential for such goods, but also just wanted to do some good for his people. Little did he foresee how his business model—which he calls “kinder capitalism”—would flourish. It’s now at the forefront of a movement that has inspired many companies, across all industries, to model/remodel themselves. That is what makes McCormick a visionary.

“The bigger our brand gets, the more social impact we get to make with Indigenous communities,” McCormick says. “And the bigger the impact, the bigger our brand gets because that aspect is resonating with consumers more than ever.” He adds, “We’re pioneering this model, and more and more companies are realizing that they have to be a force for good and positive change, which we welcome.”

McCormick stresses, however, that Manitobah isn’t a charity. About half of its employees are Indigenous. The company also operates the Indigenous Market, an online marketplace featuring one-of-a-kind mukluks made

by Indigenous artists (for upwards of $1,500) and other handcrafted accessories; 100 percent of the revenue goes to the artists. “This can change an artist’s life,” McCormick says. “We aren’t just cutting a check to some charity at the end of the year based on some preconceived notion that it’ll make us look good. Our social impact is built into our business model in a way that pays dividends to the owners, shareholders, employees and Indigenous communities at large.”

Indeed, Manitobah isn’t built like most companies. For example, many would take a cut of those online marketplace sales. But that’s not how Manitobah rolls. “We’ll never compromise on our roots—just as we wouldn’t compromise on making great product, being data driven and consumer centric,” says McCormick, noting that the company is indebted to the Indigenous people who invented mukluks. “If

From left: Greg Tunney and Sean McCormick

we don’t pay back the debt every day, then we really don’t have license to keep selling mukluks. As long as we honor that commitment, I believe we can run a for-profit business with fantastic metrics on both sides of the ledger.”

Manitobah’s unique makeup caught Greg Tunney’s attention in early summer 2021. The industry veteran had just come off a three-year stint as Global President at Wolverine Worldwide and was working with an East Coast–based private equity firm on potential footwear acquisitions. When Manitobah came across his desk, Tunney was somewhat familiar with the brand, but a deeper dive convinced him of much bigger potential. “I’d been looking at about eight pitch decks and this wasn’t the biggest or the smallest, but there was something there,” says Tunney, who took it to Seattle-based Endeavor Capital after the original equity group got cold feet during the pandemic. Endeavor saw big potential. They struck a deal, and Tunney became CEO that November while McCormick embraced a new official role as Chief Impact Officer.

What did Endeavor and Tunney like about Manitobah, specifically? “First and foremost, it’s an extremely authentic brand,” Tunney says. “Secondly, its social impact DNA was something we’d never seen before and believed could be built upon because that aspect increasingly resonates with Gens X, Y and Z.” Last but not least, he cites Manitobah’s untapped lifestyle brand potential. “This is much bigger than just a shoe brand,” Tunney says. “It’s an amazing brand story that also resonates globally.”

McCormick knew he needed support to help his baby reach its full potential. Like many entrepreneurs, he was running on fumes after decades serving as CEO, COO, warehouse staff— whatever it took to keep his dream alive. He also needed industry expertise to take Manitobah to the next level. “Being an entrepreneur is one thing,” McCormick says. “Building a global brand is another.”

But McCormick wasn’t seeking just any partner. Both Tunney and Endeavor had to embrace Manitobah’s raison d’être. “What resonated most with Greg and Endeavor is they got what Manitobah is all about,” he says. “Without that, I couldn’t have cared less about their CVs. We’re convinced that Greg has the chops, passion and understanding to lead us to our full potential.”

The admiration is mutual. “Sean is so ahead of his time on social impact but, at the same time, he’s the most entrepreneurial and capitalistic guy I’ve ever met,” Tunney says. “I’ve been a brand guy for 30 years, yet Sean’s understanding of what a brand can be is so far ahead of mine.”

Year one of the new team is now in the books, and Tunney and McCormick couldn’t be more pleased with the rapid progress made on all fronts. Highlights include opening five brand-immersive

flagships across Canada; an expanded product offering including the first-ever women’s sandal and men’s collections for Spring ’23 and Fall ’23, respectively; a profile in Fortune magazine and plenty of other press coverage; U.S. ecommerce sales up 38 percent; becoming EDI compliant; opening three new warehouses; and partnering with a highly selective account list that includes front table displays in Nordstrom and Dillard’s locations. “If I’d told Sean and Endeavor that we’d achieve all that in our first year, I think they’d have thought I was crazy,” Tunney says. “Amid a very challenging market, our stores are running 41 percent over plan—all at full price. Overall, it’s been far beyond my expectations.”

McCormick, too, is thrilled. “We’ve easily done more impact this year than any year in our history, which is very rewarding,” he says. “It’s what Greg and Endeavor promised me the opportunity to do, and that’s great for me, the brand and Indigenous communities.”

What does it take for an altruistic business model to be successful on a global scale?

SM: Authenticity, for starters. I grew up wearing mukluks, and my grandfather wore them. He was a trapper and had a sled dog team. So, not only are we selling what I know is historically the best

winter boot with 10,000 years of history behind it—plus a bunch of other great products—our consumers can bring about positive change with their purchases. They’re joining our mission, as well as benefiting emotionally and physically by buying the best footwear.

Is Manitobah at the forefront of a new model of capitalism?

SM: Absolutely. Our social impact is entwined within our company, and it’s authentic. I attribute a lot of our success to the fact that consumers can sniff out a fake. We’re the opposite of that. However, you still have to make money, which I tell our team all the time. That’s why we judge our social impact metrics the same way we do the business side. Both sides must be held accountable. That said, consumer metrics reveal that our good corporate citizen aspects are rewarded by consumers. People are busy and have their own struggles, but they do want to make the world a better place, and this is an easy way for them to do it—and keep their feet warm. I don’t think it’s any more complicated than that sometimes. Also, just because you’re in business doesn’t mean you have to leave your morals at the door.

GT: I think Sean was 25 years ahead of the entire marketplace when he came up with this business

OFF THE CUFF

What are you reading? GT: Bury My Heart at Wounded Knee by Dee Brown. SM: The latest edition of Getting Things Done by David Allen.

What was the last movie or series you saw? SM: Triangle of Sadness. GT: Your Honor. I’m a big Bryan Cranston fan.

What might people be surprised to know about you? GT: I have six grandchildren. SM: With my bombastic speak, everyone assumes I must be 6’5”, but I’m really 5’6’.

What was the best piece of business advice you ever received? SM: Money is a tool, nothing more and nothing less. And, know your cash flow, dummy. GT: “Anything great in life takes time.” —Jerry Maguire

Who is your most coveted dinner guest? GT: Historically, Joseph Smith. Currently, Warren Bu et. SM: Cindy Blackstock, a Canadian activist fighting for fair treatment of Indigenous kids living on reserves. She’s dedicated her whole life to changing kids’ lives.

What is your favorite word? SM: Respect GT: Authentic.

What is your least favorite word? SM: Conformity. GT: Cultural appropriation.

What is inspiring you right now? SM: My mom, as always, working with my social impact team and Manitobah becoming a B Corp. GT: The land of the great Rocky Mountains.

What did you want to be when you grew up? GT: I wanted to have a job that would show me the world. SM: A zoologist, but then I realized I wasn’t good enough at science.

What was your first-ever paying job? SM: Packing trailers in a glassware warehouse for a family friend. I was 12. GT: I worked at a Boy Scouts of America camp.

What are five words to describe your life? SM: Fortunate, curiosity, intense, natural, unexpected. GT: Faith, family, footwear, fun, future.

What is your motto? SM: I want to know. GT: No other success in life can compensate for failure in the home.

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model and realized, right away, the importance of it. He believed it would have stickiness and consumers from around the world would increasingly come around to it. For example, our social impact response on our ecommerce site in the U.S. is stronger right now than in Canada and a recent NPD report cited that 83 percent of Gen Xers as willing to pay full price for a social impact brand. That figure rises for younger generations. This movement is real, and it’s a business model that effects the bottom line and allows us to do more social impact.

Playing devil’s advocate, will the majority of public company shareholders be okay with giving up potential earnings for social impact causes?

GT: Maybe not in my lifetime. (Laughs.)

SM: If you ask young and future consumers who they’ll support, it’ll force

going to become the norm. Greg is a healthy guy, so I do think it’ll happen in his lifetime. But it’s a process, for sure.

GT: Helping that process is Sean having picked the right partner in Endeavor. They’re different than most private equity firms. They didn’t buy the company and immediately put a bunch of debt on the balance sheet, like many other firms do. They’re focused on what the brand is about and investing in its full potential. They’re also typically longer-term holders; more like seven to nine years. They aren’t just looking to flip it.

Could Manitobah become or join a public company one day?

GT: Sure. There are already a few private equity groups solely focused on this social impact model. I also think there will be public companies dying for our expertise in how to run this business model. Most don’t have a clue how to go about it. A recent example is when Merrell ran an ad in support of George Floyd. Good intentions, but social media quickly called them out for not employing many Black people. The idea that brands can jump onto whatever the trend of the day is has risks. If the cause isn’t part of the brand’s DNA, consumers will smell it a mile away. Fortunately, our team lives and breathes our brand’s social impact DNA every day.

Does Manitobah have year-round sales potential?

GT: Absolutely. We’re bringing in our first sandals collection this spring, and the response has been terrific. We didn’t go the me-too route, for starters. Our collection is designed and handmade by Indigenous artists in Léon, Mexico. Dillard’s and Sundance said it isn’t something that they already planned to carry, which is great news. Beyond that, Sean’s global vision invites and collaborates with all Indigenous people. That includes potentially over 600 tribes in the United States, 200-plus tribes in Canada and many others elsewhere around the world.

SM: There are lots of Indigenous communities that only wear what we call spring/summer footwear. Certainly, in South and Central America, but it also gets into the 90s on the Canadian Prairies. They aren’t wearing mukluks year-round. So, there’s lots of inspiration for warm weather Indigenous designs from just this region of the world. But there really is no end to the history and artistry we can draw from Indigenous people here and elsewhere.

How is Manitobah different from, say, Ugg

or Merrell?

companies to act in this manner. Younger generations are demanding more from the brands they purchase. I also believe you can make a social impact without having to chop profits in half. That’s a misnomer. For example, we now work with a fair-trade certified footwear factory in Vietnam. Maybe they make eight percent profit instead of nine, but they attract more people, have greater staff retention, the production quality is better and they probably make more money overall. I’ve seen that in action with Manitobah. We wouldn’t have had our level of success without our social impact component, focus, belief and purpose. I don’t think doing the right thing and making a profit are mutually exclusive. Going forward, I believe this combination is

GT: That’s a good question, and I’ll start by saying those brands are part of Delaware incorporated companies, which is no different than us. But in their articles of incorporation, the first sentence states that the corporation is set up for the benefit of shareholders. Manitobah’s states that our primary focus is to shareholders and our social impact efforts, which is an absolutely different dynamic than those brands.

What is Manitobah’s distribution strategy?

GT: For starters, if a retailer wants to buy a boot from us and merchandise it on the back shelf, that’s not going to fly. Our retail partners must carry an assortment, including a table dedicated to Manitobah in front, so people can discover our brand. Retailers also have to let us come in with our activation, which includes Indigenous dancers, musicians and artists to let consumers engage with our brand. Any retailer we partner with must meet that commitment. We’ve already scaled our account list in Canada from 500 to 600 to

Designed by a Diné artist, the Mesa hikers are lightweight and waterproof.

about 150 because of that. Now as we open REI this fall, I suspect we’ll have a lot of outdoor specialty stores come to us, but it will come down to whether they have the capacity to treat our brand the way it needs to be. Otherwise, it won’t be successful for us. I learned that lesson from David Kahan when he took over Birkenstock in North America. When he started, the brand was basically a couple of styles on the back shelf where the old hippie customer would come in for his repeat purchase. David said no more. Either we’re represented in stores properly, or not represented at all. I agree.

If a style looks to be the next Ugg Classic Short, would you go to a factory in China and crank out production?

GT: No, and the reason we can’t, for starters, is we don’t manufacture there. We’re in socially conscious factories in Vietnam, Mexico and Canada. But I couldn’t do it, even if I wanted. We have a whole vetting process we must go through first regarding design, development, marketing, ecommerce, physical stores, etc. It all must be approved by our social impact team to ensure its culturally correct. Even if it’s a potential huge money maker, if it doesn’t line up with our core values, we’re not allowed to do it.

SM: Every product we make has an Indigenous benefit to it, whether that’s to the artist who designed the bead pattern or to the people working in our offices and retail stores. Everything we do must have a social impact component built into it, or we won’t do it.

What is Manitobah’s biggest challenge right now?

GT: Educating consumers to bring our awareness up. Fortunately, I’ve never met anybody yet who says, ‘Nice story, but I’m not interested.’ Once they hear our story and plan, they immediately want to be part of it. When I first met

with Nordstrom and Dillard’s, being a shoe guy, I was focused on showing product. But they were just as interested in our social impact efforts and wanted to learn more about it. Don’t get me wrong, the product has to be right, but we’re finding U.S. retailers are equally interested in our social impact efforts. That blew me away initially, but when I thought about how the Métis people had been brought near to extinction, I believe there’s a calling, whether you’re Canadian or American, that this needs to be righted. Now, growing up did I ever think there’d be an Indigenous month in the U.S.? Are you kidding me? But times change. There’s a swell of social awareness among people who want to be a part of and give back to meaningful causes. Manitobah, in that regard, isn’t just a transaction, like I think most labels today are. Consumers are looking for so much more than that. They want interaction and authenticity, and they want to make a difference.

What are

Manitobah’s

key goals for this year?

GT: This past year was a test and learn process in a lot of areas, like our stores. The results there tell us that we’ll definitely add more locations going forward. I’m going to Banff this month where there’s a Canada Goose store doing $12.5 million annually. The owners have heard about our stores and asked us to visit to look at some properties. Our goal is to identify key destinations of experience, whether that’s Banff, Whistler, Jackson Hole Park City, etc. Places where people can experience the brand in our environment and learn about our Indigenous community. We envision adding three to five stores annually. Other focuses include DTC and growing in the U.S. market, which is untapped. That includes select partners, like Nordstrom, Dillard’s and Zappos, who are already on board, and soon REI. With regard to the latter, our boots are beautiful pieces of art, but also perform. They’re waterproof, warm >39

Rag & Co

WINTER RIGHT

White is the cold season’s new black.

Taos

Andre Assous

Chris Donovan Swedish Hasbeens

Wolverine

HUNTER GATHERING

Dingo

Seychelles

Biza

Antelope

SEAMS LIKE OLD TIMES

Moc toe details weave in a handmade aesthetic.

Twisted X

Georgia Boot Ecco

Wolverine

PEAK CHIC

Skechers Naot

Manitobah

Rieker

Remonte

Dingo

Seychelles

RING IN THE SHEARLING

The cozy accent remains a hit year after year.

Taos

Franco Sarto

Lamo

Jax & Bard

Enjoiya

Rieker

NeroGiardini

Aerosoles

Aetrex

Black Star

Propét

Alegria

Dingo

RAINING CHAMPS

Where the rubber beats the wet road.

LaCrosse

The Original Muck Boot Co.

Cougar

Khombu

CHELSEA SEE, CHELSEA DO

The classic silhouette can do as a wardrobe staple.

Ara Gabor Bos. & Co.

Ecco

THE WIND IN HER SALES

Gail Marback, U.S. sales representative for Brunate, looks back on a career filled with cherished connections.

DEAR GAIL, It is January 2023, nearly three years after the beginning of a global pandemic that tore through New York, your beloved home of many years. The city has served as the backdrop to your life, one that features many formidable hurdles as a career woman. But don’t despair! Immense rewards await as you’ll overcome the challenges and prosper. As I write to you in 1980, I know that you possess many innate talents that’ll help fulfill your dreams. You’ll also come across amazing people who will guide you through the twists and turns of a most successful and rewarding career.

The journey starts, upon graduating from SUNY Oneonta, with dreams of becoming an elementary school teacher. However, life rarely goes as planned, and your passion for teaching manifests differently than expected, steering you to utilize your skills and aptitude in business to earn a living. It’s not easy at first, but you’ll quickly develop the emotional intelligence and tenacity required to succeed. In addition, your ability to build and maintain critical relationships will play a vital role professionally and personally. Hint: You’re a natural born salesperson.

Early on, you’ll get a few lucky breaks, accepting a position as a receptionist at St. Gillian by Kay Unger. You’re soon promoted to sales, where your communication skills blossom. Then comes one of those once-in-a-decade opportunities in the form of meeting the wonderful Abe Shurr, who offers you a job at Calvin Klein to which you initially respond, with bashful ignorance, “Who are they?” Nonetheless, your interview goes well, although the thought of leaving the comfort of your current position is overwhelming. To make the decision, you list the pros and cons to determine whether to stay or go. Fortunately, for your career’s sake, the pros of leaving outnumber the ones to stay. That leap of faith sets your career on its upward trajectory.

accounts. Your passion for fashion continues to expand from apparel and handbags at Furla to footwear at Hunter as Sales Director. You form lasting relationships with your accounts, such as Billy Lawson from Shoe-Inn, who kept you calm in an order crisis. Everlasting memories are forged with colleagues—ones that extend to birthday celebrations, weddings and other special life moments with your growing extended family. Relationships matter, especially after mom and dad pass by the time you’re only 26. These deep career connections bring added emotional value and comfort. Cherish them.

Exciting journeys await! You’ll travel to almost every state, as well as internationally, to exhibit at trunk shows and trade shows. I will not lie, though, it’s hard work hauling around hefty garment bags and cumbersome shoe cases—always with a cheerful smile. There will be days of standing on your feet for hours. But your hard work pays off. The years spent nurturing these relationships is reciprocated in their loyalty to you. An added bonus is the tremendous satisfaction that comes when accounts greet you with open arms.

friends: Gail Marback and Hailey.

Still, you relish a good challenge. Specifically, the opportunity to navigate through what can sometimes feel like insurmountable obstacles in this industry. (A heads up: there are many.) As an accomplished executive, though, you’ll get to a point where you feel you have it all figured out—until you are handed the challenge that is kids’ footwear as Sales Director for Hunter. Thankfully, the sage wisdom offered by Ivan Castro at Harry’s Shoes teaches you the nuances between little kids, toddlers and big kids. Who knew? Again, you live, learn and excel, becoming a sharp student in all things footwear.

You’ve always had a passion for fashion, and soon realize that your eye for detail and fabulous taste level—alongside your ability to work cross-functionally with people from all walks of life—translate into the industry sales executive that you’ll soon become. It is challenging at first but, trust me, you’ll get the hang of it. This is where the importance of developing a wide-reaching network, alongside the maturity and courage to ask for help when needed, comes in handy. You’ll be rewarded with wonderful opportunities through networking and pounding the pavement of NYC. Early stops include Chanel and Thierry Mugler, where you begin accumulating knowledge and acquiring new skills. Remember: You’re always learning and improving.

The years that follow see you navigate the corporate ladder from showroom sales to management. You connect with talented people from all walks of life as you expand your portfolio of independent and major

Of course, there will be icebergs you don’t always see. Not everyone succeeds, and few have what it takes to thrive long-term. That’s where your innate sales gene comes into play. While you might not possess an MBA or a PhD, that ability to connect beyond a transaction is a gift that keeps on giving. It also gives you independence that most women, to this day, only dream of.

Sure, you could have been happy teaching children, but this sales path will choose you. Rest assured, it’s a great one. As I sit with Hailey, our pet Maltese, who’s staring at me expectantly, I can confidently inform you that you’ll love selling beautiful fashion collections—just like you are now as U.S. sales representative for Brunate, Italian makers of exquisite women’s footwear since 1926. You’re doing what you love: building relationships through integrity. Your path continues, one that has shaped you into the beautiful woman you are today.

With love, Me

Best

Franco Sarto zip-up booties with decorative heel hardware.

OTBT water-resistant suede riding boots. Opposite: Stacked heel booties by Chelsea Crew

Clockwise from top: Seychelles suede riding boot; zip-up booties with studded details by Spring Step; bootie with decorative beading by Azura Opposite: Aerosoles suede over-the-knee boot.

M. Gemi slouchy suede riding boots. Opposite: Stacked heel ankle boots by Dansko

From top: Naot bootie with metallic buckle; Biza mixed media zip-up bootie; moto boot with embossed buckle detail by Teva Opposite page, clockwise from left: Rieker stacked heel booties; Lamo mixed media boot with side zipper; Durango distressed leather cowboy boot; indoor/outdoor slipper boot by Minnetonka

Fashion editor: Kathleen O’Reilly; model: Anastasia O utt/State Mgmt.; makeup: Maya Ling Feero; hair: Vera Koumbiadis; photo assistants: Raymond Collette. Eileen Viglietta; styling assistant: Sarah Frey.

Smart Style

PLENTY OF TALENTED people have stepped into this industry with dreams of becoming the next namesake designer only to quickly crumble. Often, though, these failures to launch have little to do with talent and much more to do with a lack of business acumen. Translation: It takes beauty and brains to tango in this ring.

Enter Erika Carrero, founder of Elizée. The former CFO of leading Silicon Valley startups not only knows how to crunch numbers, she has extensive experience in launching subsidiaries, banking, working internationally with remote teams and acquiring new businesses. Carrero has been involved in creating business plans, sticking to budgets and adapting on the fly. “From an operations perspective, it was a natural progression to launch my own company,” she says. “I’ve had to be resourceful with limited resources in a startup environment.”

Now about that design talent? Carrero’s tech background plays a key role, as well as having attended classes at the Stanford Design School. The combo has enhanced her problem-solving skills and ability to think outside the box. An example is the high-density, open cell foam Elizée features in its insoles. The material was originally developed by NASA for its shock-absorbing properties for use in space telescopes. The label also incorporates latex gel cushioning in its insoles for optimal comfort. “These are just a couple of examples of how bringing together expertise from business, design, materials science and engineering allows us to be innovative in how we conceptualize and produce our shoes,” Carrero says.

Elizée’s design foundation of “form and function” is in step with consumers demanding comfort in all styles, according to Carrero. “Women no longer tolerate discomfort after two years of living in loungewear and cozy slippers,” she says. “Women want to dress up again, but in a way that makes them feel empowered, gorgeous and sexy—and totally comfortable. That’s Elizée’s sweet spot: We combine Silicon Valley innovation with the luxury craftsmanship of our Italian artisans to deliver all-day comfort in the sleek look of a luxury shoe.”

Carrero loves heels, and is obsessive about getting every design perfect. That’s her right and left brain combo coming into play. “I don’t rest until each style is that elusive combo of confidence-boosting gorgeous and comfortable enough that I’d gladly run through an airport to catch a plane in them,” she says.

What’s Elizée’s overall aesthetic? Glamorous, seductive, feminine and powerful. The goal is to make woman feel the best version of themselves. That

said, feet are perfectly imperfect. Women have different foot widths, ankle shapes, some have bunions, etc. We take these variations into consideration by providing seamless, full coverage for the most sensitive areas of the foot, yet the silhouette is flattering. Our best-selling Adriana sandal and Deia boot achieve that by breaking up a larger pattern piece into alluring, slender lines that also deliver comfort and stability. Similarly, many of our styles feature slim stability platforms under the ball of the foot to reduce inclination, providing extra stability, shock-absorption and cushioning.

How was business this past year? Elizée continued to grow steadily. We’re currently in select boutiques in Napa Valley and the San Francisco Bay Area, which have repeatedly restocked our styles. We’re also growing our stockists on the East Coast, including in New York and D.C., as well as getting great traction with the press and celebrities.

Who is the Elizée woman? She’s constantly on the go, juggling a thousand commitments and varied roles in her personal and professional life, and she’s a frequent traveler. She owns her feminine power. She’s innately stylish, appreciates impeccable quality and instantly recognizes great design. She knows exactly what she wants, and she’ll accept nothing less than gorgeous style and perfect comfort.

What are some highlights of your latest collection? Customers asked for a mid-heel sandal, so just in time for holiday parties and resort vacations, we’ve introduced two gorgeous styles on a new, 2.5-inch heel. They’re perfectly balanced, but also have a feminine shape that gives the illusion of being just a bit higher. They come in two neutral shades that complement a wide range of skin tones. As always, we selected the butteriest, Italian Napa leather, and we introduced a semi-transparent mesh to give a subtle seductive effect. The mesh calls back to our philosophy on intelligent design: providing full coverage of sensitive areas, while keeping the shoes sexy with a peek-a-boo effect.

Where do you look for design inspiration? Nature is great inspiration. I take lots of pictures, focusing on how a wood grain pattern might look in leather and the way colors transition in rose petals. The mood board for my first collection was inspired by a hike near Aspen with rocks covered in ice. That translated into metallics and snakeskin. I also drew inspiration from

Beauty and the brains: Erika Carrero, founder of Elizée, is all about delivering style and comfort.

Erika Carrero, founder of Elizée, blends Silicon Valley innovation with Italian craftsmanship.

the soft cream tones in sculptures I saw in Italy. For our second collection, I drew inspiration from the Italian Riviera’s sparkling waters. It made me think of transparency and delicacy, which we’re bringing to our Holiday/ Resort capsule collection.

What are Elizée’s goals for 2023? The sky’s the limit! We’re focused on growing points of sale, particularly in-person retail partnerships, as we’ve seen how effortlessly our shoes sell when women feel the quality and comfort. In terms of product development, we’re always looking to push the envelope with comfort and are currently researching the next generation of insole technology. I continue to work with podiatrists to test our prototypes while incorporating the latest materials and designs. Our approach is to listen to our customers and design based on their specific needs. For example, we developed a new mold for a heel that provides enhanced stability at 60 mm. This height is not common, but we got strong feedback from customers saying this is what they need. We’re also adding wedges with beautiful shimmering leathers for Spring ’23 and ultra-wearable 50-mm booties that I’m confident will be our new best sellers for Fall ’23.

What are some of your biggest challenges right now? Predicting demand. From supply chain issues to rising prices of raw materials, the uncertainty of the current environment is even more apparent for independent brands. We’re fortunate, however, to have a strong partnership with one of Italy’s oldest heritage factories that works with us on minimums and delivery times. We aim for small production quantities and short turnaround times on reorders, which allows us to respond in a fluid way to demand, rather than overproducing. Another challenge has been heavy discounting from well-known designer brands and retailers. While we’ll occasionally discount select styles, we price our products fairly (SRP: $250-$675), so heavy discounts are not built into our margins.

Any advantages to being a woman running a woman’s shoe brand? Having endured more insanely busy days in uncomfortable heels than I’d like to admit, I understand how a shoe that makes you look and feel your best can empower and propel you forward to accomplish anything. A shoe that is painful or makes us feel anything less than impeccably chic delivers the opposite experience. It holds us back. Thus, the feel is equally important as the beauty reflected in the mirror. This is a modern woman’s world; we should never have to sacrifice comfort for looking gorgeous.

What shoe must every woman have in her closet? The three essentials of the modern wardrobe are: a knockout dress sandal, a wear-with-everything ankle boot and a demure pump. That achieves chic, year-round foundational dressing for any occasion. And if she invests in quality and timeless design, she’s making intelligent buying decisions and participating in the growing slow fashion movement. Heritage plus quality equals fewer items. All Elizée styles are designed to be foundational pieces that women can wear forever.

Who are designers you admire? Gianvito Rossi for the attention to fit and classic yet seductive femininity. Aquazzura for their wild creativity with materials and showcasing the best of Italian artistry and craftsmanship. And, of course, Christian Louboutin for pushing the envelope with sexy, colorful, playful design and experimenting with wearable yet unique leathers and prints. Yet none of these designers are women!

What is your first shoe-related memory? I was influenced by mother and grandmother, who were always very fashionable. My mother ran errands in pencil skirts and stilettos, and I have a vivid image of her wearing a light pink matching outfit. She looked so beautiful and powerful. It’s my first memory of looking at shoes with different eyes. That’s when I fell in love with shoes.

continued from page 15

in Arctic conditions and feature Glacier Grip on the outsoles. That’s a key factor in REI’s decision bringing us in as a major program. There are also new retail partners, like Simon’s in Canada. They’re like the mini Barneys there. Strategic urban areas are another distribution focus, which can be addressed by our existing partners as well as select independents.

SM: On the social impact front, we’ll be publishing our first annual report. Historically, we haven’t done the greatest job tooting our own horn, so we’re going to promote a lot of the good deeds we’ve done this past year. We’re also putting playbooks in place to make sure our organization remains Indigenous-focused. For example, we support the Manitobah Mukluks Storyboot School, which teaches Indigenous and non-Indigenous kids how to make mukluks and about Indigenous culture and knowledge. We’re rolling out a digital archive curriculum where we’ll be able to reach thousands of kids across North America starting this year, which is exciting. We’ve also set aggressive growth goals for our Indigenous Market. There’s lots to keep busy.

What do you love most about your jobs?

GT: First, I love working with entrepreneurs. I’ve been fortunate to work with Tina Valdez at Foot Petals and Dixie Powers at Baggallini while I was CEO of RG Barry, as well as with Harrison Trask (founder of H.S. Trask) when I was with Phoenix Footwear Group. They put their entire lives into their companies and did everything to make their dreams happen. I loved working with them on those journeys, just like the one I’m on now with Sean. Secondly, I love that we’re a work-from-home-first company, which allows us to attract some of the finest talent in the world. My design team is based in Boston, my marketing head is in San Francisco and I’m based in Park City, UT. Throughout my career, I’ve moved around the country to pursue opportunities, but I’m at a point now where my wife said it’s okay to move for another opportunity, but she’s staying in Utah. The world has changed dramatically, though. In order to get talent, this model works best. I also don’t think I could ever put on the blue suit and sit in the office every day again. Third, I love giving back. This is the first time in my career that it’s not just about selling shoes. Having a positive impact on Indigenous communities is really meaningful, especially since this is likely my last tour of duty. It revs my engine each day giving back to what’s much bigger than a shoe company. I love what this new model represents as an authentic brand in the marketplace. At this point in my life, it’s a dream job.

SM: I love the ability to focus on my true passion, which is making a social impact. Having served as CEO, de facto COO, warehouse packer, etc. for nearly 25 years, it got quite tiring and challenging at times. With Greg taking on CEO duties, I’ve gotten a little bit of my life back and I feel super reenergized and focused. I’m more convinced than ever on meeting some of the lofty goals we’ve set on both the social impact and growth sides. I believe we’re going to get there, and I’m excited about all the good stuff that’s to come. •

The Tipi moccasins feature bead work by Indigenous artisans.

Power to the Plaids

Jax & Bard

The Original Muck Boot Co.

Ara

Minnetonka

ROMIKA

SALVIA

SAMUEL HUBBARD

SANITA CLOGS

SAS – SAN ANTONIO SHOEMAKERS

SESTO MEUCCI

S FELLAS

SKECHERS

SKECHERS KIDS

SKECHERS WORK

SKINNERS TECHNOLOGIES

SOCKWELL

SOFFT

SOFTINOS SOFTWALK

SPERRY SPLENDID

SPRING STEP

SPRING STEP PROFESSIONAL STAHEEKUM

STEEL BLUE

STORM BY COUGAR

STRIVE FOOTWEAR

SUNNI-SABBI

TAOS FOOTWEAR

THERAFIT

THINK!

TIMBERLAND

TONI PONS

TOPO ATHLETIC

TROTTERS

TWISTED X U.NO5 TOKYO

UNITED SHOE RETAILERS ASSO (USRA)

UNITY IN DIVERSITY

VADDIA VANELI

VIBRAM

VICTORIA SNEAKERS

VIONIC VOLCOM W6YZ

WALKING CRADLES

WESTERN CHIEF

WET KNOT WATERPROOF FOOTWEAR

WHITE’S BOOTS

WOLKY FOOTWEAR

WOOLLOOMOOLOO SHOE

WORISHOFER

XELERO

ZIERA

Featuring Aetrex orthotic support and memory foam cushioning for superior comfort