Footwear Plus | September 2018

SEPTEMBER 2018

WORK PREVIEW STYLES THAT GET THE JOB DONE ITALIAN SHOEMAKERS THE ART OF SIMPLICITY TONY POST CONFESSIONS OF A BRAND BUILDER DSW KIDS’ BIG, DEEP AND NATIONWIDE

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S E PT E M B E R 2018 FEATUR E S 10 The Art of Simplicity Italian Shoemakers CEO Peter Romanelli on how the 36-year-old women’s lifestyle brand continues to grow by sticking with

Caroline Diaco President/Group Publisher Greg Dutter Editorial Director Nancy Campbell Trevett McCandliss Creative Directors EDITORIAL Aleda Johnson Assistant Editor

what it does best.

By Greg Dutter

Emily Beckman Assistant Editor

16 Work Zone

Kathy Passero Editor at Large

Versatile, durable, comfortable, protective and stylish: occupational styles that get the job done.

By Aleda Johnson 20 DSW Goes Big on Kids The new and improved kids’ department expands to all doors as the chain ups its one-stop shopping game.

By Greg Dutter 30 White Hot The clean, crisp color serves as the go-to counterbalance to classic summer brights.

By Aleda Johnson

Kirstin Koba Contributing Editor Melodie Jeng Marcy Swingle Contributing Photographers ADVERTISING/ PRODUCTION Jennifer Craig Associate Publisher Laurie Guptil Production Manager Bruce Sprague Circulation Director Mike Hoff Digital Director Ana Novikova Office Administration 9THREADS CORPORATE Xen Zapis Founder 1926-2018 Lee Zapis CEO

DEPARTM ENTS 6 Editor’s Note 8 This Just In 22 Trend Spotting PA G E

23 Scene & Heard

30 On the cover: Gabor platform sandals, Free People shirt and bell bottoms, vintage jacket, Urban Outfitters earrings. Photography by Trevett McCandliss; stylist: Katie Belloff; hair and makeup: Nevio Ragazzini/Next Artists; model: Ariane M. /Fenton Model Mgmt.

Debbie Grim Controller OFFICES ADVERTISING/EDITORIAL

40 Shoe Salon

214 W. 39th St., Suite 205 New York, NY 10018 Tel: (646) 278-1550 Fax: (646) 278-1553 editorialrequests@ 9Threads.com

42 Last Word

CIRCULATION

26 A Note to My Younger Self 28 What’s Selling

This page: Platform sandals by Antelope, Smythe blazer, sweatshirt and pants by Free People, Darner socks, vintage collar pin. Bella-Vita wedge slingbacks, pants by Iris von Arnim, Smythe blazer, vintage Tommy Hilfiger shirt, necklace

by Pericles Kondylatos.

Rich Bongorno Chief Financial Officer

44 Upclose Athletic

26202 Detroit Road, #300 Westlake, OH 44145 Tel: (440) 871-1300 circulation@9Threads.com

FOOTWEAR PLUS ™ (ISSN#1054-898X) The fashion magazine of the footwear industry is published monthly (except for bimonthly April/May and October/November editions) by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, 214 W. 39th St., Suite 205., New York, NY, 10018. The publishers of this magazine do not accept responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage is paid in New York, NY, and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: $48.00 in the U.S. Rates oustide the U.S. are available upon request. Single copy price: $10.00.

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4 footwearplusmagazine.com • september 2018

®

E D ITOR ’S NOT E

Spies (Really) Like Us

Creep Show?

RECENTLY, MY TEENAGE daughter was playing the theme music from Netflix’s hit sci-fi series, Stranger Things, on her electric piano. When we turned on our TV shortly after, we were greeted by an ad for the show. Doo, doo, doo, doo…Doo, doo, doo, doo… (Cue The Twilight Zone theme music.)

It seems our TV was listening—even in its “off ” mode. And this wasn’t the first time. There have been other instances when our family sat in the living room chatting about a certain movie, and then found it featured in the Amazon Prime movies or in the On Demand cable listings. Oftentimes, it’s an obscure or older movie—nothing that’s trending. That’s more than just a coincidence. Our smart TV is watching us.

The same goes for smartphones, laptops, wearable fitness gizmos, apps and voice-activated devices—they are listening, recording, watching, tracking, compiling reams of data that our actions generate when we use them. This is surely not breaking news. Nor is learning that the minute-by-minute stream of our likes, needs, wants, tendencies, problems, fears, favorites, peculiarities, etc. has all been for sale—both for straight-ahead marketing purposes and for Deep State matters like possible election rigging. Data is the new currency driving consumer commerce. It allows for pinpoint accuracy, timing, personalization and influencing. Still, there’s a fine line between targeting and spying on consumers.

Like a lot of people, I was introduced to the concept of Big Brother through George Orwell’s novel 1984. That entity definitely creeped me out, but it seems downright docile compared to the monitoring muscle of today’s array of Big Brothers disguised as friendly social media platforms. Unless you find a way to go completely off the grid, you can’t escape. You’re being monitored 24-7. As reported recently in The New York Times Magazine, Facebook and Google have not only gathered data directly from their platforms, but they’ve also followed people’s internet trails, using “an elaborate network of browsing bugs.”

The two tech Goliaths have created “a private surveillance apparatus of extraordinary reach and sophistication” in what has been labeled by philosopher and business theorist Shoshana Zuboff “surveillance capitalism.” Talk about creepy.

Does this kind of spying make everyone’s skin crawl? Or have we reached a point in the sharing economy age where privacy is no longer possible in such a highly interconnected world? A 2018 CX Trends study involving 2,000 customers and 1,000 brands suggests the former. The No. 1 trend reported was “personalization can get too

personal.” In fact, 75 percent of respondents deemed most forms of personalization that brands use at least somewhat “creepy.” What’s more, 40 percent of brands admitted to being “creepy” with people’s personal information, tracking what they buy, places they visit online and places they shop in person.

Of course, the counterargument to all this creepiness is that it’s done in the name of convenience for the consumer. There’s no harm if marketers are merely using the data to cut down on the time we have to spend searching for and then purchasing goods and services. The new Nike App at Retail, for example, recognizes shoppers when they enter its two flagships in Los Angeles and Portland, OR, and offers exclusive products. Shoppers can check out through the app with no waiting.

Not in the store? No problem. You can reserve product through the app, and it will be on hold in a personal locker for pick-up.

Millions of consumers will gladly exchange some privacy for such seamless shopping. As proof, the voice-activated devices market in the U.S. is expected to hit $40 billion in sales and include 55 percent of all households by 2022. (Last year’s sales totaled less than $2 billion.) Of course, data mining is an imperfect science. There are still bugs to work out, especially when it comes to accuracy. For example, why am I regularly targeted with ads offering women’s shoes? These firms know plenty, but clearly they don’t know everything.

In the meantime, an epic battle is brewing between data miners and privacy advocates. Europe recently passed the General Data Protection Regulation, which aims to give individuals in the EU control over their personal information. That’s only the first front in what’s likely to be a long and costly world data war. The data mining side is arguably as well financed as any force in history. They are armed with legions of lawyers and lobbyists, and able to line the pockets of both red- and blue-leaning politicians, so one might think they have the edge in this fight. (Google’s parent company, Alphabet, spent more money last year on lobbyists than any other corporation in America.)

But why should a handful of tech titans profit so hugely from the little people’s habits, hobbies and search histories? Of the current 143 billionaires around the world, half reside in Silicon Valley. (Facebook and Google control more than half of the worldwide market in online advertising.) How about a little compensation for Joe and Jane Paycheck in exchange for all the data they’re unwittingly providing? What if consumers get really secretive, even if it’s purely for spite? I’ve got a hunch data miners are in for a rude awakening if they think they’ve got eternal rights on a gold mine they don’t own or fully control—yet.

Let’s hope they never do. That would be the ultimate creep show!

Greg Dutter

Editorial Director

6 footwearplusmagazine.com • september 2018

www.gabor.de Purveyors of luxury European comfort footwear

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THIS JUST IN

very prairie Easy breezy dresses paired with classic casuals: the new boho is a go in Soho and beyond.

Photography by Marcy Swingle 8 footwearplusmagazine.com • september 2018

BY

GREG

September 2018

THE ART OF SIMPLICITY Pe t e r R o m a n e l l i , CEO of Italian Shoemakers, on how the 36-year-old w o m e n’s l i f e s t y l e b r a n d continues to grow by sticking with what it d o e s b e s t.

PETER ROMANELLI DOESN’T consider himself a shoe designer, or even a line builder. But how do you define a man who has, for the past 36 years, served as the company’s point man with its factory partners, building Italian Shoemakers from scratch into a solid women’s lifestyle brand known for simplicity and timeless style at affordable price points? If you ask Romanelli, the answer is: “I define myself as a romantic, passionate shoe engineer.”

Romanelli says a shoe engineer is someone who makes product that has good structure and longevity.

Perhaps it’s not surprising then that some of his earliest engineered styles remain popular sellers to this day. One in particular is style No. 168, a crisscross wedge sandal first introduced in 1984. “It’s probably one of our most successful styles overall,” he says. “It’s a simple, elegant construction and is still selling extremely well.”

But Romanelli will be the first one to admit he’s no shoe savant. Not all of his styles have been home runs.

Nor does he hail from a shoemaking family. (His father and two brothers are doctors, and his mother is a phar-

10 footwearplusmagazine.com • september 2018

DU TT E R

macist.) Rather, it’s been a trial-and-error rounded, and the linings are also smoother process that started back in 1982 when he and softer,” he says.

“I QUICKLY LEARNED took sole possession of Italian Shoemakers—a It’s a labor of love for Romanelli, made two-person startup that, after the first eight even more so since his sons, Arthur and THAT CERTAIN SHOES Oliver, became partners in the business a months, was saddled with a bunch of shoes no one wanted to buy. Romanelli says his few years ago—against the advice of outside HAVE VALUE AND partner at the time thought he knew what the experts. “My lawyer said it wasn’t a wise U.S. market desired and assumed American move because I could lose control over my OTHERS HAVE NONE.” company,” Romanelli says. “But I’d rather retailers would adapt to an Italian business schedule. He was wrong on both counts and have my family help me control the company soon left to give the pizzeria business a whirl. than eventually be by myself with my family Romanelli found himself alone. He needed to having interests in something else.” Romanelli pay back the investment his father had made believes the move is good for his sons. “They in the company’s launch, so he was forced to figure out a way to survive. aren’t just ‘working for their dad.’ They’re working for themselves and their Back then, Romanelli was taking college business courses in the mornfamilies,” he says. “They have a vested interest in wanting the company ings and evenings—and working on Italian Shoemakers in between. It to continue to do well.” gave him an ideal opportunity to apply some business 101 concepts to his But Romanelli is giving no free passes. He wants to ensure that his fledgling company. For example, Romanelli knew he needed to sell shoes sons learn the business from the ground up. “They’re going through same that would deliver a profit—and he quickly realized that keeping costs under process I went through,” he says. “They’ve worked in our warehouse, control was key. “I learned early on how to be very careful with costs,” he unloading containers and shipping shoes, and they’re learning all facets says. “A product can sell very well, but if your costs are high, then your of the business. I’m very pleased with them and so happy that we have product will be expensive to produce and you may have difficulties growthis relationship.” ing your company.” Keeping costs in check helped Italian Shoemakers be What’s more, having his sons join the business has given Romanelli competitive, and it taught Romanelli another valuable lesson: Your retail added incentive to stay healthy. “I need to keep myself available to partners need to make a profit, too. “Once they make money, you become them and make sure they learn the whole process,” he says with a laugh. a good supplier and they want to do more business with you,” he says.

Fortunately, the job itself keeps him young. “I love what I do. It keeps me Romanelli built Italian Shoemakers one style at a time. In the early days, active and happy,” he says. “Even though there can be lots of pressure in he sold shoes to Miami-area retailers out of the back of a van that he and this business, that doesn’t really bother me because I enjoy overcoming his wife took turns driving. Nowadays, he sells millions of pairs annually in challenges and fixing mistakes.” Ever the engineer, Romanelli’s approach countries around the world. It’s the quintessential entrepreneurial success is simple but undeniably effective. story, albeit the long version. Italian Shoemakers wasn’t, by any means, an overnight sensation. It’s been a shoe-by-shoe, season-by-season, year-byLooking back to when you started Italian Shoemakers at age 19, did you ever year process. Romanelli says the growth has come in stages punctuated by envision you’d be running the same (much bigger) company 36 years later? a series of plateaus. “We show an increase about every four to five years,” No. I think I’ve been lucky. It’s probably in my DNA. But at the very he says. “It’s basically the time frame required for us to absorb the knowlbeginning it was more seen as a problem I had to fix than a career. I had edge—and fix any mistakes—in order to make the next jump.” to repay my father. That was my first goal.

Right now Romanelli believes Italian Shoemakers is poised for another jump in sales volume. He predicts it will happen either this year or in 2020.

When did you repay your dad?

“We’re close,” he says. “I’m confident we’ll break the 4 million pairs mark Within 24 months. My fiancée (now wife) and I invited my parents to soon, and our goal is to achieve 5 million pairs sold annually by 2021.” He dinner, and we presented them three envelopes each containing a check cites the addition of the company’s first boots collection this fall as one covering the three loans he gave us. He was very impressed to be paid back factor, though he predicts the bulk of the gains will come from expansion so soon. Of course, I was lucky to be living at home at the time, so I had into everyday casual shoes beginning this spring. “They aren’t sneakers or no living expenses. I was going to college and working at the same time. moccasins, but they’re flexible and comfortable (closed-toe) styles suitable It was challenge with the schedule, but my college was close to the office. for work and casual occasions,” he says, noting that the expansion has been nearly three years in the making.

What exactly did you do that your original partner failed to do?

Romanelli says the brand will also continue to deliver fresh and enticing Very simple, I found a way to survive. We had shoes that didn’t sell, so I sandal collections with a variety of materials, colors and embellishments. quickly learned that certain shoes have value and others have none. Once “Our latest collection features more embellishment on the soles,” he says. you learn that, you look for shoes that have value and stay away from ones “We’ve added some woven details, bands, ornamentation, multi-colors that don’t. The first thing I did was try and understand the needs of the and metallics that add interest, yet the sandals overall are clean and U.S. market, particularly the retailers in southern Florida. It’s warm, so understandable.” Comfort features, too, have been upgraded. “A lot of I said let’s make open footwear. We started out with a simple slide. The attention has been put on the edges to makes sure they are smooth and style number was 0405. Then we added a slingback, which was style

12 footwearplusmagazine.com • september 2018

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04S05S. I just built the business up from there. Along the way, I learned about unique sole constructions, cushioned insoles, upper materials, etc.

It wasn’t that difficult, really. Many of the first products we introduced could still sell well today.

You’re being a bit modest. It’s not easy to do successfully for three decades.

There are always good seasons and bad seasons. Actually, I’m always more scared by the good seasons, because the bad ones tell me what I did wrong and the next season I won’t repeat those mistakes. In contrast, the good seasons can sometimes be misleading. Likely, it was a number of things that made the collection successful, but you never really know which ones will repeat the following season. So if you guess wrong then you might not have as good a season. It’s always been a challenge to keep the company going. Fortunately, my wife was always there helping me manage the business. She was the best partner I could ever had, especially at the start, doing everything from unloading containers in the warehouse and driving our van to deliver shoes around south Florida. She’s always been with me.

We’ve had a fantastic time.

When did the company start to expand beyond Florida?

In the mid to late ’80s. We started to exhibit at the New York show and picked up some retailers and then exhibited at WSA when it was in California.

That‘s when a buyer from Bakers stopped by and said he’d never seen Italian-made sandals done this way and gave us a test. That was the first

step to becoming a bigger business. Soon after, we landed Edison Brothers and learned how to fulfill 10,000-pair orders. It just grew from there.

When did you feel like Italian Shoemakers was really on its way?

It took 10 years for me to develop the product knowledge that could sustain steady sales. In 1991, we moved from our first warehouse, which was not even 100 square feet, to a nice building occupied by a friend who rented us an office and about 5,000 square feet of a 50,000-square-foot warehouse.

That gave us nice flexibility. We could get more room if we sold more shoes.

Then, in 1992, we made our first major investment, buying the two-acre lot next to that building that is our offices and warehouse today. That marked the beginning of being a company with a good opportunity in front of us.

What do you think is one of Italian Shoemakers’ most defining traits?

We build new products 24/7 because we’re constantly looking at the market to understand the shifts in trends. We don’t try to be the fastest company, but we aim to be an understandable company that produces product that is understood by our customers. So I would say it’s simplicity.

Who is Italian Shoemakers’ target customer?

She’s a busy Middle America working mom spanning from age 30 to 60s.

Her family comes first followed by career and then personal needs. She doesn’t have a big budget for shoes (Italian Shoemakers prices range from $39 to $49 and $69 to $79) yet she wants to buy comfortable styles that

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she feels proud to wear and won’t last just three months, rather several years. She prefers wedges and flats with a little bling that she can wear at a variety of occasions. Overall, our goal is to offer quality product with a fresh and elegant look at a competitive price yet made in Italy.

“Made in Italy” still holds strong cache?

It makes a big difference. There’s an added level of interest. When customers see that a product is made in Italy, they expect to see a higher level of quality, finesse and elegance. For our customers in particular, it also means good value. It’s something that they can be proud to wear. I should add that some of our top factory subcontractors work on leading designer names.

We share the same people who make many of those shoes.

So no plans to shift production overseas to possibly lower costs?

An advantage might be lower production costs, but the biggest disadvantage is having little to no control over the product. Also, it’s not faster and there are added costs for transportation. But most of all, it’s the lack of quality control. You’re never confidant that the product shipped will be right.

Whereas, we really don’t even have to check products when our containers arrive because we’ve been in full control through every step of the process with our own factory and subcontractors. We don’t have that fear of the unknown of what’s inside the box. One of the best compliments I’ve ever received was from a demanding DMM who said our consistency with colors and quality is second to none and that she never has to worry about a ship-

ment from us. It was confirmation that going overseas to try and possibly save money probably wouldn’t pay off.

Making affordable, quality product is no easy feat.

It isn’t. It takes time to perfect. It’s been an interesting and ongoing learning curve, but I’ve discovered that you can make a very good product that’s not that expensive. That’s always been our strategy, and it will remain so going forward. That’s one of the main reasons we opened our own factory in 1989. After seven years of dealing with factory owners, I realized there was no way I could achieve anything consistently good having to depend on them. Factory owners are very volatile. If I had good season, they’d raise prices. If they had bad season, it’d be a nightmare getting samples. I had to find an alternative if I was ever going to grow the company. Opening our factory taught me how to negotiate with suppliers, how to make product, how to plan production, how to create that simplicity that make the shoe competitive in price but good quality. I’ve learned that sometimes the more expensive the product gets, the more problems you can have. The goal is to design desirable product, which may not make us the hottest company for that season, but it attracts plenty of customers who appreciate the style, quality and price.

What’s new for Spring ’19?

We’re introducing a new injected-foam insole that’s lighter and more flexible.

Coming from a family of doctors, I understand how important it is to >41

WORK ZONE The latest work styles for Spring ’19 are ready to get the job done with the innovative comfort and safety technologies packaged in versatile styling.

BY ALEDA JOHNSON

EVERY SEASON, WORKERS seek the right boots and shoes to get them safely and comfortably through long days on the job. Style is a major concern as well, but if the product is not up to code then it’s a non-starter.

Everything from steel- and composite-toes to slip-resistant soles to electrical safety to anti-fatigue features are packed into styles. To gain an edge, brands are on the cutting edge of materials to reduce weight yet maintain durability and protective qualities. And as Millennials

CAT Style: Engage Alloy Resume: Suitable for workers who want the comfort and style of a sneaker and the protection of a work boot. Safety specs include a Vibram MegaGrip Pro sole, Cordura ballistic textile upper for military grade durability and an ASTMapproved alloy toe that is lighter than steel and thinner (read: roomier) than composite. Comfort features like Cat’s proprietary Duofuse midsole blends rubber and foam that offers 40 percent more resilience and 30 percent more abrasion resistance than standard EVA, enabling workers to remain on their feet all day.

Recommendation: “Our next generation of Earthmovers grew up wearing sneakers, so putting on heavy-duty work boots doesn’t work for him,” says Lindsey Lindemulder, work category manager. “This range is for guys who hate wearing work boots, and the result is a sneaker boot that delivers the mega grip, protection and comfort he needs while spending the day hustling on his feet.”

MSRP: $140

16 footwearplusmagazine.com • september 2018

and Gen Z flood the job market, athletic styling continues to gain significance. The members of Generation Sneaker demand lightweight comfort and crossover appeal suitable for on-the-clock and after hours.

Here, the following styles from leading occupational brands have the necessary qualifications. Their features and benefits resumés are loaded. Forget employee of the month, these could be employees of the season.

E ASY ST RE ET Style: Peyton Resume: Part of Easy Street’s Easy Works line, the Peyton features a unique lacing system that retains its stretch all day for easy slip-on and off wear and a forgiving fit, reducing pressure on the instep. Generously padded and lined in comfy tricot for a guaranteed feeling of softness, the supportive insole features an impact-absorbing arch cookie with stress-reducing technology for all-day wear, which is just what nursing and culinary professionals demand. The slip-resistant outsole has textured rubber inserts that grip the surface and channel away liquids.

Recommendation: “What separates Easy Street from many professional footwear suppliers is our size and width options,” says President Keith Gossett. “We are all about true fitting footwear supported with the Easy Motion exclusive comfort system.”

MSRP: $79.99

T WI STE D X Style: WDMCT02 (Women’s Driving Moc) Resume: The women’s driving moc was built for ladies who need a safety toe, but do not want to wear a men’s work boot made in women’s sizing. In addition to Twisted X’s usual comfort features and a composite toe, the soft brown leather and boat shoe ties looks like a shoe a woman could run errands in all day.

Recommendation: “We hear over and over from ladies in various industries that they are so exasperated trying to find protective footwear they want to wear. So many boots are big and bulky looking,” says Prasad Reddy, president and CEO. “This shoe solves that problem with a lower rise and stylish details.”

MSRP: $119.99

WO LV E R I N E Style: I-90 DuraShocks Wedge Resume: This hiker-inspired style appeals to all consumers looking for a boot that can be worn on and off the job site. In the I-90, Wolverine’s tried-and-true DuraShocks layered footbed that absorbs shock and returns energy gets a makeover on a lightweight pattern with added comfort features on par with an athletic shoe. Aesthetically, the style maintains endemic wedge lines while using classic leathers with Taslan laces.

DR. MA RTE N S Style: Maple Zip (Women’s) Resume: Packaged in Dr. Martens’ customary rebelliousness aesthetic, the Maple Zip comes in soft, industrialgrade tumbled leather and features a protective toecap, slip-resistance outsole and a Softwair anatomically correct Memory Foam footbed for all-day comfort. In addition, its underfoot grid pattern promotes air flow around the foot to compliment the anti-bacterial mesh cover which helps keep your feet dry and odor-free.

Recommendation:“Constructed from soft, work-grade leather and padded tongue for extra comfort, this new style doesn’t make our customers compromise between style and function,” says Sam Breese, head of product, Dr. Martens Americas.

MSRP: $140

DA N SKO Style: XP 2.0 Resume: The XP 2.0—Dansko’s lightest weight clog to date—includes a cushioned, supportive and ergonomically designed removable PU footbed with Dansko Natural Arch technology for all-day comfort. A slip-resistant rubber outsole keeps the wearer safe on dry, wet and oily surfaces, and the range of colorways from traditional black to wine and denim offers a little fun for healthcare workers, culinary professionals, educators and anyone who spends all day on their feet.

Recommendation: “Our objective was to reinvent the classic wedge,” says Rick Appelsies, vice president of product management. “The end result is a next generation wedge boot that raises the performance bar for comfort, shock absorption and durability.”

Recommendation: “We’ve taken the very best features of the Dansko Professional clog and the Dansko XP and brought the consumer a significantly lighter weight solution, resulting in an even better experience for those who are on their feet all day,” says Sal Agati, executive vice president, Global Sourcing and Design.

MSRP: $155-180

MSRP: $140-$150

2018 september • footwearplusmagazine.com 17

R E D WIN G Style: CoolTech Athletics Resume: Available in men’s and women’s styles, the CoolTech Athletics is lightweight and comfortable—suitable for light duty warehousing jobs and other indoor work environments.

The 360-degree cooling fabrication used for the internal booties and the top cover of the footbed keeps feet cool.

Protective features like the dual colored Vibram Speedsole for slip-resistance and the Nano Toe non-composite safety toes round out the design.

Recommendation: “When designing our CoolTech Athletics safety footwear, we started with the lightweight comfort of a running shoe in combination of the most advanced cooling materials available,” says Kirstin Anderson, senior product merchandising manager. “CoolTech Athletics is proudly built to serve and protect our industrial athlete.”

MSRP: Starting at $159.99

ROCK Y Style: XO-Toe Resume: Designed for both comfort and safety, Rocky’s western-inspired pull-on boot marks the industry’s first ASTM certified, externally attached protective toe. Built with lightweight flexible cement construction and Rocky’s Rebound cushioning midsole, the external composite toe guard gives toes space without compromising safety.

Recommendation: “This is the most comfortable work boot I have ever tried on,” says Mike Roundhouse, vice president and general manager. “Unless I’m looking down, I forget I’m even wearing a safety-toe boot. Once you try these on, you’ll never buy another safety-toe boot again.”

MSRP: $184.99

HY TE ST Style: FootRests 2.0 Xergy Trainer

N U R S E M AT E S Resume: Aimed at women ages 18 to 35 who want the comfort of a sneaker for work primarily in the medical and service industries as well as a busy lifestyle. The lightweight and flexible style features eye-catching sporty lines and breathable mesh uppers. The proprietary Align Orthotic technology helps place feet in a more optimum position to assist with proper alignment and support of the rest of the body.

Resume: Hytest listened to its work boot customers in the 25- to 44-year age range with the creation of this athleticinspired trainer. The FootRests 2.0 tri-layer, anti-fatigue footbed is anatomically shaped and an arch tech plate supports the foot for all-day cushioned comfort. The Xergy anti-fatigue foam midsole absorbs shock and returns energy to increase stamina. The nanotechnology safety toe is lightweight and an oil-, slip- and abrasion-resistant TPU outsole with Superflex grooves in strategic zones provides comfort and maximum flexibility.

Recommendation: “The position of your foot as you walk and stand day can directly impact several other areas of the body, and that’s why stability that comes from proper alignment is so important,” says Lizmarie Flores, creative marketing manager. “It’s our mission to make shoes that promote the wellness of our customers—this shoe is proof of that.”

Recommendation: “This collection is a true testimony of Hytest’s focus on bringing the most innovative technology to market,” says Karry Johnson, vice president and general manager. “The FootRests 2.0 Trainer is the complete comfort system from the ground up with an approachable athletic appeal.”

MSRP: $89.95

MSRP: $170

Style: Brynn

18 footwearplusmagazine.com • september 2018

K EE N Style: Utility Manchester Resume: This outdoor-meets-athletic work boot features new Keen.Rebound comfort technology for a lightweight, compression-resistant midsole paired with a removable PU footbed for all-day cushioning. The Manchester is crafted from full-grain, waterproof leather and features a Keen.Dry waterproof, breathable membrane that allows moisture out but never in. For safety, the style is outfitted with Keen’s signature asymmetrical aluminum safety toe that exceeds ASTSM safety standards; slip-resistant, non-marking rubber outsole that meet Mark II and Satra standards; and reflective webbing for visibility.

Recommendation: “The Manchester brings an elevated level of comfort to our customers who are no strangers to long days on their feet and at the job site,” says Robin Skillings, global marketing director. “Keen.Rebound is an innovation we are very proud of and hope to incorporate into future designs.

MSRP: $160

G EO R GIA B O OT Style: Rumbler Resume: The Rumbler collection was built for heavy duty work environments without the heavy duty weight. The outsole technology allows the boot to be lightweight, incredibly durable and performance ready. The rubber outsole contains an internal cushioning EVA midsole encapsulated in an external TPU heel stabilizer. It provides great resistance against oil, chemical, abrasion, heat and slips.

DU RA N GO Style: Men’s 11” Ventilated Maverick XP Resume: This style is a far cry from the stiff, hot cowboy boot of yore. The Ventilated Maverick keeps feet cool with a fully ventilated shaft for maximum air flow and a fivedensity, three-layer outsole system for optimum comfort.

Durango’s X-Treme Comfort removable PU footbed with memory foam support feet and the X-Pand system of hidden gore expansion for a universal fit allows easy-on/off.

Recommendation: “This is an exciting new product collection that’s extremely comfortable, lightweight and durable, while being offered at a great price point,” says Mike Fuller, vice president and general manager.

MSRP: $164.99

T IMB ER L A ND PRO Style: Downdraft 6” Resume: The Downdraft is perfect for keeping feet cool at construction sites regardless of weather. The brand’s exclusive StepVent Technology promotes breathability by forcing air to move through special channels inside the boot that lead air out through the upper, keeping feet drier and more comfortable.

Recommendation: “This collection exemplifies Georgia Boot’s commitment to lightweight, comfortable work boots that will hold up under tough conditions and still look great at your kids soccer game,” says Scott Gales, vice president and general manager.

Recommendation: “We’re excited to bring our new StepVent system to market to help consumers who require waterproof work boots stay more comfortable and drier throughout the day,” says Ryan Dulude, product research engineer. “This innovative system promotes airflow into and out of the boot, as well as around the foot, to manage moisture, resulting in better comfort on the job.”

MSRP: $180-$192

MSRP: $210

2018 september • footwearplusmagazine.com 19

DSW GOES BIG ON KIDS The new and improved kids’ department expands to all doors as the chain ups its one-stop shopping game.

BY GREG DUTTER

DSW (DESIGNER SHOE WAREHOUSE) already owns an athletic or casual house; we meet all the needs in the children’s wardplenty of women shoppers, especially those just starting out robe,” he says. “It’s a wide assortment of quality brands from designer to in their careers and who have a need as well as the disposable traditional athletic.” Key brands include Nike, Adidas, New Balance and income to do lots of (affordable) shoe shopping. However, it’s Vans as well as dressier labels like Sperry, Steve Madden, Stride Rite, when many of these customers get married, start having kids Minnetonka, Carter’s, Robeez and Kenneth Cole. The assortment also and are juggling work and parenting responsibilities that DSW includes DSW private label brands, Max + Jake and Olive & Edie, which execs noticed a drift away from them being regulars. DSW research disPersson reports are performing exceptionally well. “Our consumers view covered that many of these women just didn’t have the time to indulge them as regular brands,” he says. in shopping for themselves, opting instead for outlets where the whole In addition to a huge assortment, Persson says DSW is going the full family could get their shoe needs fulfilled. nine yards on proper fitting. All department staff have received extensive Like any wise retailer, DSW is adapting to meet the needs of one of its training and passed the chain’s fit certification program. They are identified key demographics (more than half of the chain’s 25 million VIP Rewards in stores by sporting kids’ fit expert buttons. “We’ve walked them through members have at least one child in the household) to encourage her return. the Brannock device, instructed on how to ask probing fit-related questions Enter its new, improved and expanded kids’ department, officially open in and explain why, for example, a child might need a greater width versus a all 500-plus outlets nationwide as of last month. The rollout follows a test narrow or a basic size,” he says, noting parents want what’s best for their phase over the past couple of years in select stores where DSW tweaked the children. The fact is plenty of parents may know how to fit themselves, format, selection and service to get it just right. Above all, Kirk Persson, but not so when it comes to their kids. Do you leave a thumb’s print worth GMM of DSW’s Kids’ division, of room? Should the toe go all says the company listened carethe way to front? What’s the fully to what customers were best shoe for safety purposes? saying. “Overwhelmingly, our “The expert service gives Mom customer expects us to carry a confidence, especially first-time big assortment just based on ones who are looking for a safe the convenience factor,” he says. environment to shop for children’s “Our approach is different than shoes,” Persson says. other kids’ shopping models in The fit expertise marks a new that we carry a much broader level of service at DSW, which assortment across multiple Persson says is a must when categories.” it comes to kids. “For Mom to From sneakers and sandals think of us as a kids’ resource, to boots, casual, dress and we needed to go a step above,” uniform styles in stores and he says. “We didn’t want her to thousands more styles online have to hunt for her kids’ shoes in sizes spanning infant, toddler on her own. This added level of and youth, Persson says DSW service is designed to gain her aims to be a back-to-school confidence, just like we have destination for families as well when it comes to her purchases.”

Bigger, broader, deeper: the DSW kids’ department aims for destination status. as year-round. “We aren’t just And while Persson says DSW falls

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DSW’S ROLLS DICE ON NEW VEGAS CONCEPT short of being a 100 percent sit-and-fit experience, the fact that it is willing to measure every A smaller-sized format bets big on experiential draws. child’s foot as well as ask relevant questions provides assurance to parents that the DSW OUSED IN THE Showcase Mall on The Strip is listening to their child’s needs. What’s more, in Las Vegas, the new DSW store that opened when compared to many competing retailers last month might be half the size of one of its who have stripped away service, the willingtypical outlets, but the experience is over-the-top, ness to engage customers represents a fresh Sin City-like. It all starts at the “video tunnel,” approach, according to Persson. And if Mom where customers are drawn from The Strip wants a little space, he says, she can grab her into the store through a three-sided sensory kid’s size and go.

The kids’ shopping all takes place in a selfpassageway that gives the feel of being inside contained section that consists of roughly 1,000 the visual display. square feet. It’s bright, cheery and clearly signed, “Our video tunnel is an immersive and exciting according to Persson. Interactive elements like feature that makes customers feel as if they’re a mat where kids can measure themselves and flying over a city, swimming under water and test their jumping skills adds to the overall walking through a desert,” states Roger Rawlins, CEO. experiential vibe. Rounding out the department Once down the escalator and onto the sales floor, visitors are met with a bevy of shopping is an extensive offering of accessories, includentertainment experiences led by the one-of-a-kind Shoevator. The device consists of three ing backpacks and lunch boxes. “Our research elevator lifts, serviced from a mezzanine over the sales floor. Customers order shoes from the showed that more of a shop-in-shop approach wall via the DSW app or a tablet located at a nearby kiosk, which alerts an associate on the with a hands-on touch with the customer is mezzanine. The associate receives the order, picks the ordered shoes and sends it to the sales what is preferred,” he says. Persson credits DSW employees, many of whom are recent first-time floor in a numbered bin via the Shoevator where the customer picks it up. “It’s essentially a parents, for providing lots of useful feedback giant shoe vending machine,” Rawlins says. Customers can also win a pair of special kicks on what makes a great kids’ shoe department. by playing the Heat Vault Keymaster machine. Reminiscent of an arcade classic, Heat Vault “The biggest takeaway from our employees was Keymaster challenges players to retrieve sneaker swag in just two moves by inserting a key realizing we needed to do more than just offer into a keyhole using a joystick. a big selection,” he says. “They told us we had The Las Vegas store is part of an ongoing effort by DSW to reinvent what it means to go to have the added touch with the customer shopping for shoes. “DSW has and to be able to explain why this is the right been transforming itself by creatsize and shoe for your kids. The ability to walk ing engaging experiences that through the quality and durability attributes of stir emotion and inspiration,” says the shoes is important. Is it just foot covering Rawlins. “From the innovations or are they actually going on an adventure?”

Another employees’ takeaway was to not be a we’re bringing to retail through our one-dimensional department. “Like we do in service tests like nail bars, repairs and adults, we offer fashion, function, athletic, dress custom insoles to this one-of-a-kind and seasonal categories,” Persson says. “We’re experience in Las Vegas with our just not stocking the top 20 styles and carrying Shoevator and video tunnel, DSW them deep. We’re also building and curating a is creating endless opportunities selection that meets all of the footwear needs The DSW Shoevator is like a giant shoe vending machine. for self-expression.” for the child’s total wardrobe.”

Selection, service and setting combined, Persson believes the DSW kids’ department is a winning formula. He adds that the partnership with Soles4Souls allowing relevant, according to Persson. “It’s not like they’re sitting in a dentist’s customers to make room for new shoes by donating last season’s gently office,” he says. “They’re able to engage with different types of products—to worn styles at any DSW store is icing on the cake. Each donation nets touch light up styles from Skechers as well as see an array of dress styles DSW VIP rewards members 50 points towards their next reward. Since that many probably have never even seen before.” It’s a shopping experilaunching its new loyalty program in May, the chain has seen tremendous ence that can’t be replicated online. And while Persson says customers response, with more than 127,000 pairs donated. “Kids go through so can shop the 2,000-plus styles online if they prefer, the belief is the many shoes because they grow so fast and the thought of them just endlion’s share of kids’ purchases will happen in its stores. “Ultimately, it’s ing up in a landfill is heartbreaking,” says Margaret Standing, director about the convenience factor for parents,” he says, especially if they have of corporate communication for DSW. “Parents love the opportunity to multiple kids in tow. “Parents want to get in and out efficiently, be able clean the closet out before they go shopping for the next round of shoes for to get all their kids’ shopping needs done in one trip and leave knowing the school year and they love the fact that they’re helping others and the they’ve been waited on by a sales associate who really listened to their environment at the same time, and it’s great for the kids to see that too.” needs and provided them with a great shopping experience.” Persson Like with pretty much everything DSW does, when they do it, they go adds, “As long as we’re trend-right, have the brands kids want and the big. The kids’ department is no exception. It’s comprehensive, fun and inventory, we should be very successful.” •

2018 september • footwearplusmagazine.com 21

SLIDE RULES T h e m a n’s m u l e : s l e e k , s e n s i b l e a n d v e r s a t i l e .

Clockwise from top: OluKai, Tamarindo, Johnston & Murphy, Vionic.

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PHOTO GRAPH Y BY TR EVETT MCC AN DL I SS; P RO P STY L IN G BY R O BI N Z ACHARY

T R E N D S P OT T I N G

SCENE & HEARD

New Balance Shows Heart NEW BALANCE RECENTLY marked its 5th annual Global Volunteer Week (GVW), where its offices and stores worldwide gave back to their local communities. The Boston-based company’s latest volunteer drive, in cooperation with Two Ten Foundation’s industry-wide Footwear Cares charitable initiative, scored impressive stats: 7,300 hours of service, 1,800 associates, 245 projects benefitting 180-plus charities and schools, and 9,000 youths served.

“Our goal is to increase volunteerism each year, not only hours and people, but New Balance CEO the number of projects and organizations Rob DeMartini got busy during we are able to serve globally,” says Amy Global Volunteer Week.

Sweeney, global community outreach manager for New Balance Charitable Giving. “We’ve grown year-round volunteerism by 243 percent since 2012. This year, we increased the numbers of volunteers by 10 percent, projects worldwide by 17 percent and organizations served by 19 percent.”

Notable GVW projects this year included New Balance CEO Rob DeMartini and his senior leadership team joining 40-plus associates to help Thompson Island Outward Bound Education Center maintain its grounds. The center provides adventurous experiential learning programs

that inspire character development, community service, environmental responsibility and academic achievement for young people from diverse economic backgrounds. Meanwhile, the company’s Spain headquarters joined GVW for the first time, working with Fundación Vide where associates held a sports camp in the town of Vigos for children who may not otherwise have access to sports. Soccer and wheelchair basketball were the big hits, Sweeney reports. Last but surely not least, following the hurricanes that devastated Puerto Rico, Houston, Florida and the Dominican Republic, New Balance increased its annual Red Cross donation of $500,000 to $1 million. The company also worked with the nonprofit Good Sports to create 80 NB Movement Kits that include sports equipment as well as 400 NB Sports Packs with new apparel, sneakers and sports equipment for donation to disaster victims. New Balance’s Boston factory also shut down for a day so nearly 100 associates could help pack the kits.

Whatever the charitable effort, Sweeney says it all helps people in need.

Plus, there’s the enormous benefits to New Balance volunteers. It does a body, mind and soul good. “Our mission is to make a difference in the communities where we do business by connecting associates worldwide to meaningful, hands-on service projects,” she says. “While we are an industry with a commonality of shoes and apparel, there’s more that connects us to a larger humanity.” Sweeney adds, “Footwear Cares brings all of us from different backgrounds and companies together to make a difference in our communities. That sense of pride, camaraderie and joy helps make our daily lives better, spreads goodness and incrementally makes people, our communities and thus the world better.”

IN THE NUDES The classic neutral bears watching.

Clockwise from top: Soft Comfort, Walking Cradles, Vionic, Patrizia by Spring Step.

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PHOTO GRAPH Y BY TR EVETT MCC AN DL I SS

T R E N D S P OT T I N G

Bella~VitaÂŽ Spring 2019

Leah

46 Sizes & 4 Widths | ALL SHOWS 1-800-970-VITA

A N OT E T O M Y Y O U N G E R S E L F

CARVING OUT A PATH Industry veteran Scott Prentice looks back on an e p i c c a r e e r t r a i l a n d t h e l e s s o n s l e a r n e d a l o n g t h e w a y.

DEAR SCOTT, Your never give up attitude first became apparent growing up in Hinsdale, IL. You’d been given a pair of old skis and boots and during that first winter, every day after school you’d walk a block to the local park, trek up the hill, ski down and repeat until dark. Lesson learned: Always try something new as it just may become a life-long love affair.

In fact, the entire Prentice family takes to skiing. Your mother and father, who skied into his 70s, first hit the slopes during a family trip to Aspen. The two-week vacation becomes an annual family tradition. They are wonderful times. You helping navigate the drive over Loveland Pass before the tunnel. The rented house at 13 Riverside Dr. for 12 straight years—the last two with you and your brother’s girlfriends in tow. Turkey dinners and leftovers with political debates before and after skiing.

The year the family skied Snowmass, riding up in Sno Cats—that was memorable!

It is during high school in Kansas City when you tell your parents you don’t like the clothes they’re buying for you. Your father suggests working in a clothing store to buy your own.

You do—at Mr. Guy. Fitting Cole Haan shoes with every suit sold, you learn how to use a blind stitch to hem pants. On Saturdays, the tailor’s day off, the salespeople beg you to hem pants as you’re the only one who knows how. It’s a skill you’ll bring to a men’s store in Texas where you work while attending college.

Lesson learned: Gain useful skills, work hard and you’ll rise in the ranks.

You will excel in college. The family thinks you’re on your way to law school. But the clothing business calling is stronger. You return to Kansas City to run a Mr. Guy store where you then meet your first mentor and future boss, Harry Parsons. He hires you as a rep for Pacific Trail Sportswear to sell outerwear. The salary is less, but he offers you a motor home, a season pass at Arapaho Basin and regular trips to Aspen for meetings, skiing, bike rides and dinners at Guido’s Swiss Inn. From January to April, you live in the motor home, calling on more than 200 stores. It’s a brilliant concept as you don’t have to schlep sample bags into and out of stores. During the fall, you service customers and present spring collections. Summers are spent at the Jim Bridger Wilderness area in Wyoming, where it’s camping and eating fresh fish. Lesson learned: Live life to the fullest and miss nothing.

When you decide to join your brother as a Midwest sales rep for

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Gerry Skiwear, your parents are thrilled. You both love the ski business.

It’s morning sales meetings at ski resorts, mid-day ski runs and back to work at night. When the company is acquired by Brown Group and it soon acquires Court Casuals Tenniswear, it’s another case of career karma as you and your brother will become ranked high school tennis players.

Soon after, you are recruited for a management position at Court Casuals.

At the time, life is good. You live in Evergreen, CO, and are happy as a sales manager. You’re building great customers, in good shape financially and loving your independence. But company president Jim Issler, who will become your second mentor, convinces you to take the sales manager position. Lesson learned: Keep moving your career forward.

Six months later, Jim asks you to join him in a startup of a hand-sewn shoe brand at H.H. Brown. You jump at the chance, having worn that type of shoe all your life. You move to Connecticut. The business grows, expanding into other categories. Jim trains you in all aspects of running a business. You’ll never forget it. To this day, you use learnings bestowed by him. A favorite is “know the knows.” Lesson learned: Know all aspects of the business so you can be a hands-on general manager and not just an overseer.

After holding several other positions at H.H. Brown, you go on a mission to run a shoe company. As president of Street Cars, based in Massachusetts, your first order of business is cutting out cancerous expenses.

But then a head hunter calls about the position of president of Bruno Magli’s men’s division.

The opportunity to run a heritage luxury label, help set the tone of the collections and frequent trips to Italy is a dream job. Lesson learned: Sometimes you never know what’s around the corner careerwise.

Over a 10-year period the Bruno Magli men’s business grows, including extensions into outerwear and leather goods. You then move on to manage other European luxury brands as well as the classic German comfort brand, Haflinger. Lesson learned: Having input on product, distribution and brand imagery for great brands is always a privilege. The rush—just like that first run through fresh powder—never gets old!

Scott, stay tuned for the next career chapter as you and your wife/business partner, Nancy Klaiman Prentice, launch Mainsail Management, a holding company for European brands. The first two you will represent in North America are Brunos Firenze and Faggioli s.rl. Lesson learned: There’s always another trail to traverse. Enjoy the ride!

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W H AT’ S SE L LI N G

Boutiques

G

SOULTRY SHOES Chicago

rowing up in an extended family of business owners, Chicago native Yvette Dudley always wanted to run her own business one day. But it took being laid off after 20 years working in corporate America’s technology and banking sectors to get that dream started. Dudley’s passion for connecting women and exchanging ideas drew her to the retail world with the opening of Soultry Shoes in 2008. “I knew whatever I chose to do had to be something I had such a passion for that I could eat, drink and sleep,” Dudley says. “And nothing brings women together like shoes and handbags.”

For nearly 10 years, women have flocked to the 1,000-square-foot boutique located in the city’s gentrifying Pilsen arts district (rotating works by local artists adorn the store walls) for the quality yet affordable shoes and handbags from All Black, Franco Sarto and Poetic License, among others. The boutique’s art gallery feel features 11-foot ceilings, track lighting, wood floors, warm and cozy earth tones, couches and even an outside patio. “It doesn’t feel like a typical store,” Dudley says, adding that the setting is designed so people will want to visit repeatedly.

Dudley keeps her customers coming back with not only a great selection, but a dedication to bringing the diverse community that surrounds her store together with shoe parties, wine nights, book signings and gallery shows. She also rents out the space for painting parties and fundraisers. “In the age of Amazon, it’s essential that boutiques create a positive, memorable experience for their clients,” Dudley says. “I want people to be able to let their hair down and engage in conversation. People talk about, refer friends and shop again and again at places that make such an impact.” —Aleda Johnson What are your leading footwear brands? Vaneli, All Black, Franco Sarto and Poetic License. I’ve also started carrying cowboy boots from Volatile. A lot of my customers love them.

Who is your target customer? She’s primarily between 29 and 55 years old and seeks classic, traditional styles. Every lady working in the business sector needs a good Mary Jane, a pump and a flat.

How’s business of late? It’s been up and down this year. The community is growing by leaps and bounds, which is good. But this is a very old neighborhood with mom-and-pop stores trying to keep up with the new stores coming into the area.

How is Soultry Shoes competing? This business is about relationships and service. It’s great to be able to point and click but there’s nothing like having a relationship with someone who knows what you like. They walk in and you can say, “I’ve got just the thing for you.” You also need to be creative with your

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space and think outside the box to draw new customers in and keep them coming back. Amazon just delivers the package, really. That’s why I think it’s essential that boutiques create a “positive memorable experience” for customers. If you do, people will think of you when they’re in the market for your product or even just wanting to spend some money.

What are some outside-the-box examples you’ve implemented? We’re very active in our local community. We’ve participated in clean-up neighborhood campaigns and activities that support kids’ programs. We host Girls’ Nights, book signings and networking events where women of different walks of life can get together. It expands our network and enables us to get to know better the people that we serve. Often, by the end of the night, they’re exchanging business cards. It’s an affordable way to bring in new clients who bring their friends without any advertising.

How important is social media in getting the word out? I’m getting better at it. I use Facebook and Instagram for promoting events.

However, a large portion of my clients don’t do much with social media, and I didn’t want to lose them by focusing too much on that and not enough in-person engagements.

What’s the biggest challenge facing your business right now? Balancing my store responsibilities with my involvement in the local community. I have to start managing my time better if I want to see things I’ve been working on come to fruition. Over the course of my community involvement, I’ve seen many businesses open and close. It’s hard to watch their dreams fizzle. I’ve tried to help point them in the right direction and while I don’t want to entirely pull away from that, I have to focus more on my business.

What are your future goals? One, I’m working on my own accessories line, which will have shoes, purses and totes.

Two, I want to have a second store that offers unique items from smaller designers near Chicago. They’re doing such great things, but they’re not in many stores yet. Third, I want to use my store as a small business incubator to showcase new products. Four, I would like to have an online presence to help move my business forward.

What’s the best part of being small business owner? That you’re able to create whatever you want, and you don’t have to ask anyone. Just put it out there and see what happens. Being able to connect with people is also great.

When a customer who has had a bad day walks out of my store feeling like a new person after a little retail therapy, it’s just the best feeling. I’ve held many events where someone made a life-changing connection, like at our fundraiser for prostate cancer research that connected a woman whose husband had the disease to the top doctor in Chicago. You don’t get that type of interaction shopping online. I may be old school, but I believe people want connection at the end of the day, and a retail space allows you to do that.

Ta o s s n e a ke r, s l i p - o n

by Kizik, Hush Puppies o x f o r d , Vi o n i c t e n n i e .

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W H I T E

T h e cle a n , c ris p c olo r is t h e g o - to c o u n te r b ala n c e to clas sic s u m m e r b rig h ts .

P h o to g ra p hy by Treve tt M c Ca n d lis s Styli n g by Katie B ello ff

Naot sandals, Smythe dress, necklaces by Bing Bang NYC. O p p o s it e : b r a id e d sandal by Jerusalem S a n d a l s , s l id e b y B C Fo o t w e a r .

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Mules by Walking C r a d l e s , B e a t r ic e B blouse and trousers, Baggu crossbody handbag, A.J. Morgan glasses, v i n ta g e e a r r i n g s .

O p p o s it e , Pl a tf o r m sandal by B u tt e r , v i n t a g e ruffle blouse, Free People pants.

M e p h i s t o s n e a k e r, Smythe shirt, L a n d o f D i s t r a c tio n dress, Darner socks.

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Clockwise from top l e f t : A n k l e s t ra p sandal by Seychelles, SAS heel, Musse & Cloud platform, espadrille wedge by Italia n S h o e m a ke rs , A l l B la c k p e a rl embellished slide.

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S n e a k e r s b y Ke d s , Beatrice B dress a n d j a c k e t , K F C Lt d . s w e a ts h i r t , L a u r e n c e & Chico headband.

O p p o s ite , c l o c k w is e f ro m t o p : E a s y St r e e t slingback, woven flat by Restricted, Patrizia sandal.

Hair and makeup: Nevio Ragazzini/ N e x t A r ti s t s u s i n g Ke v y n A u c o i n m a ke u p a n d T 3 a n d L iv i n g P ro o f o n h a i r ; m o d e l s : A r i a n e M . a n d Ka yl a T. / F e n to n M o d e l M g m t .

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EDITOR’S PICKS

White Mountain Footbeds

Marc Fisher

D E S I G N E R C H AT

CARLOS SANTOS CLAIMS to not be a shoe designer by trade, or even a stylist.

But the longtime namesake of the classic Portuguese brand is every bit an expert on the making of beautiful handmade men’s footwear. Having gotten his start in the business at the tender age of 14, where he worked in local factories in his native Portugal and later having traveled the world extensively to observe firsthand the many details to high-quality shoemaking, Santos believes he’s become somewhat of a “self-taught” designer. Specifically, he’s a student of the art of footwear manufacturing and why attention to detail is paramount.

The brand’s philosophy of producing “gems” involves a recipe of traditional design, innovation and passion. One of the few remaining makers of Goodyear Welted constructed product, Carlos Santos shoes are built to last. “This construction is the only way to give a shoe a very high status of quality because the original shape and look of the patterns remain intact for a long period of wear,” Santos says, noting that only the finest materials are carefully selected each season. The label’s overall aesthetic is classic in terms of silhouettes and style, and all shoes must fit properly. “My main concern is always the fitting,” Santos says. “I care more about patterns that really fit and catch the eye with rich details.” He credits the generations of craftsman working in his factory who make the shoes completely by hand for bringing his footwear visions to life.

For Spring ’19, that translates to a focus on “simple and clean looks” using traditional colors and easy-to-wear and comfortable constructions like the moccasins, according to Santos.

“We’ll feature soft suedes and grains as well as light colors,” he says. —Aleda Johnson

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THE NEW PLASTICS Suitable for mean girls and nice ones, peekaboo P VC embellishments show some skin.

Why should American retailers carry Carlos Santos shoes? Every day our workers are on the factory floor ensuing that our quality and specifications are the best possible. We genuinely care about our shoes. American retailers can trust that our shoes will meet these high expectations. Plus, we are responsible for all our deliveries—shipped in full, on-time and looking beautiful!

How’s business? Business is no longer strictly a calculated scenario.

By that I mean that all entrepreneurs should be able to manage a business daily and be highly aware of any changes in the world and adapt accordingly. There should be no real surprises anymore.

Having said that, our business is good.

Is there a perfect shoe? There should be!

The conciliation between a great pattern and good materials enables a good craftsman to create a perfect shoe.

What makes Carlos Santos shoes designs stand out from the competition? I believe it’s my sense of searching for details and unique shapes that can fit almost all type of feet.

Are there any designers who you admire?

I don’t have any specific names to mention, but I often see good designs from unknown

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brands. A lot of potential is probably lost in the world.

What celebrities might you like to see wearing Carlos Santos? It doesn’t need be a celebrity at all. I just like to see people wearing our shoes who appreciate and understand the value of our shoes. Especially those people who know how to take care of our shoes at home to make them live longer.

What might people be surprised to know about you? That I have no patience for errors.

What do you love most about making shoes? The end-result. When I try a new pair on for the first time and I feel that they will be a big success.

E D I TO R ’ S P I C K S P H OTO G R A P H Y BY T R E V E T T M CC A N D L I S S

CARLOS SANTOS

continued from page 15 be healthy, and that means before you “need to go to the doctor.” Our new insoles offer the necessary support as well as cushioning. We’re also introducing improved linings that are smoother and softer but still structurally strong.

Last but not least, we’re opening a new facility in Italy that will allow us to prestock components. We need to produce more in-season products because the customer changes constantly, and we want to deliver what she wants. We’ll be able to make it faster with this facility. It’ll be like having a bigger refrigerator in our kitchen with more ingredients to make shoes that we can ship in season.

Where do you envision Italian Shoemakers in five years?

The last two years has been an interesting evolution for our company.

Several people who’ve worked with me for many years have retired. Some became grandparents and wanted to spend more time with their families, which I think is great. But it’s opened an opportunity to rejuvenate our company. We’ve recently brought on board some very good people in U.S. and Italy. It’s giving me the energy to look into more investment to grow the company. We’re working on developing even faster production cycles.

Another goal is to expand further internationally. We currently do business in Canada, South America, Japan and Australia. We’re upping our ecommerce capabilities and implementing drop ship for select customers.

Any plans to sell direct to consumer?

It won’t be a main avenue for growth, but we need to represent ourselves in that channel. Our retail customers cannot absorb all the samples we produce, so DTC would be good way to test different products. That way we can give our retailers the sure things. We want to assure them to the best of our abilities that they will make a profit. These days, it’s all about margins and percentages, and unfortunately the product loses some of its importance in all that. Still, we want to give our customer who is working hard to make their store successful the products that will sell and generate margins they need. They have to cover a lot of expenses, too.

It’s like you’re embarking on Act II of Italian Shoemakers.

Yes, we’re rejuvenating the company. We want to just keep learning and growing. Today, everything moves so fast and we just aim to keep up. Our responsibility as a manufacturer is to provide our customers better product at competitive price with faster delivery. If we continue to do that, then I think we’ll be successful. And I think it’s relatively easy to do if you engineer your product line properly.

ALTIPLANO A brand new Wolky fashion sandal for spring 2019!

Simplicity seems to be a cornerstone of your business philosophy.

I am a simple business person. I’ve come to realize happiness is achieved by making simple things. I’d rather make simple products that lots of people enjoy than be No. 1 today and gone tomorrow.

What keeps coming into work each day?

It’s the endless passion in trying to achieve something that doesn’t exist.

My eyes are constantly looking for opportunities in footwear. I go to bed at night thinking about the shoes we can make tomorrow. It keeps me highly motivated. Every day you can improve a little bit. Every day there’s something you can discover that you didn’t know the day before. Each morning when I’m driving to our factory, it’s like the first day. I can’t wait to get there. And on the drive home, I’m thinking about what I did wrong, whether I achieved anything, what needs to be done tomorrow… It’s like the production chain, it never stops.

What do you love most about your job?

I’m a lucky person. I get to do something that others enjoy, and I make it with passion and honesty. I’m very proud when I see someone wearing our shoes and when I hear how much a woman loves them. It means I’ve done something good. I also enjoy everyone I work with as well as my customers, who I want to be happy and profitable. I hope to continue doing this as long as I can. •

A leather covered footbed absorbs perspiration and is durable.

Memory foam shapes itself to the foot and feels wonderfully soft.

The outsole is lightweight, flexible, and durable.

L A S T WO R D

Post Time

Going for a Run To n y P o s t , C E O / f o u n d e r o f To p o A t h l e t i c , o n g e t t i n g his latest venture up to full speed. By Greg Dutter

TONY POST IS an industry veteran with a lot of miles under his belt. Having served a key role at Rockport during the brand’s walking category heyday to spearheading the minimalist footwear movement with the launch of Vibram FiveFingers to founding his namesake Topo (short for Tony Post) running brand, he’s accumulated a wealth of experience and perspective. It’s all coming in handy as Post’s brand finds its stride in a field of athletic powerhouses.

Here, Post candidly dissects the good, some bad and the pleasantly surprising as Topo marks its five-year milestone. It’s been a fun run so far.

It’s been five years since the launch. Are you where you envisioned the brand to be? To be perfectly candid, the first few years were really hard. Despite my years of experience, we made our share of mistakes. But the last couple of years have been good. We’ve refined our vision for the brand, we’re making better shoes and we’ve built stronger partnerships with the right retailers, suppliers and factories.

We’re also operating better as a team. We fill an important need in the market, and that’s starting to be reflected in our sales growth. Coming off my experience at Vibram FiveFingers, I probably had unrealistic expectations about how quickly we could grow. I mean, doesn’t every business grow to $100 million in 5 or 6 years?

What are some notable milestones? Winning awards the last couple of years from Runner’s World and National Geographic were important—it gave us critical product validation at an important time. Seeing strong sell-thru with a key retailer is just as important—we’re always focused on sell-thru, not sell-in. Even hitting a strong open rate on an email campaign is important because it reminds us what resonates with our target audience. These are all milestones to be celebrated, but in the end, it just makes us hungry for more. Like a competitive runner, our team is focused on improving each season, making better product, providing better service, creating better communication. The more you improve, the more inspired you are to get better.

What’s the toughest part of getting a new brand up and running today? Capturing consumer mindshare in a crowded market. I remember at Rockport, back in the ’80s and ’90s, people told us our shoes were just too ugly, that we’d never grow if we didn’t make better looking shoes. But something in the fit and feel of those shoes outweighed our “unusual” look.

Our business grew because those were some of the most comfortable shoes of

42 footwearplusmagazine.com • september 2018

their time. We were the first company to bring lightweight athletic shoe comfort to casual and dress shoes. Along the way, we made walking shoes a relevant concept and built a business that reached nearly $500 million in sales. At Topo, we just try to stay focused on our target user and retail customers: How can this product improve a user’s running, trail or fitness experience? I’ve always had more success when I focus on a niche.

I don’t try to make shoes for everyone, in fact I try not to think about the mass market. I just focus on a specific target, then make something that solves a problem or makes their lives better. When you do that, chances are it’s going to eventually capture their attention. There are no shortcuts. You have to make something better, then do it again and again.

How did your Vibram FiveFingers experience influence Topo’s launch? The Vibram FiveFingers experience was unique in several ways. First, thanks to Marco Bramani (owner) and Robert Fliri (designer of the original model), we had the opportunity to introduce a new concept under the umbrella of an established brand. Second, we already had lots of great shoepeople working in the company—designers, technicians, people in operations. We were well resourced to make that business grow. Most people think Vibram FiveFingers was a meteoric success, but the truth is we didn’t break $4 million until our fourth year. When it did take off to more than $100 million, we already had a strong team of shoepeople we could access to seize the opportunity.

Launching Topo has been very different. We have a much smaller, younger, but scrappier team. They have endless energy and enthusiasm for building a brand and creating a company—we have to do both. Along the way, we’ve faced all kinds of obstacles. It’s a very competitive marketplace with lots of great brands, so just entering the market is a challenge. When we started, we were thrown out of a couple factories because other brands perceived us as a threat and threatened to pull their business from the factory if they didn’t throw Topo out. We had to raise money and invest without a return for a long time. We needed to build operational and business systems from scratch.

There were challenges on every front, and we made our share of mistakes.

But I wouldn’t trade any of that away. Overcoming all of that has made us better, it’s made us more creative, more thoughtful and more thankful when we did begin to achieve some success. And most important, it’s helped us to believe in ourselves.

How’s business of late? Business is challenging for everyone, but we’re

doing well and growing every week. We’ve established a our humanity and keeps us grounded as thoughtful premium network of independent running and outdoor human beings. To paraphrase Teddy Roosevelt, “Just specialty stores across the U.S., including nearly 100 as Europeans protect their cathedrals and castles, REI store locations. We’re selling in 11 countries now— Americans must protect all the wildernesses that serve that’s something you didn’t used to see 20 years ago. A as our Notre Dames.” It’s more important than ever young, small brand going global this early in its life cycle. for companies of all sizes to support organizations But the world is much more connected today. A nice like the Conservation Alliance, which does a great surprise is how balanced our sales are across gender, job helping to protect our environment and working category and even style. In my previous experiences, to insure we have access to our land.

Topo’s award-winning Ultraventure trail running shoe for Spring ’19. it was usually an item that helped launch a brand or an idea. With Topo, our sales are almost even men to Where do you envision Topo in five years? I want women and road running to trail running. We’re not an item brand.

Topo to be known for quality, creativity and how we take care our customers, employees and stakeholders. And that we’re a company our users enjoy and What’s new for Spring ’19? It’s all about our Trail category. Not only have we are proud to own. I admire companies like Patagonia for their commitment updated our Terraventure and Hydroventure models, we’ll be launching the to quality and sustainability; Apple for their industry-shaping design; and Ultraventure, which Runner’s World named ‘Editor’s Choice’ in the running REI for creating a strong culture that extends beyond their employees. category at the OR show. All three models feature high-performance Vibram outsoles, Ortholite footbeds, multi-density midsoles and Topo’s “hook and You’ve launched brands from scratch, spearheaded the natural running tunnel” gaiter system. We’ve reduced the overlays, added unique water drainage movement, helped put ultra-marathoning on the map, you’re the poster features and upgraded several ingredients. And like all Topo shoes, the new child (literally) for proving dress shoes can feature athletic-like comfort… trail models fit roomy in the toes, yet snug in the waist and heel, which is Looking back, is there anything you’re most proud of? It’s fun to look back, especially important on-trail where you need a secure fit but room when your but it’s more exciting to look ahead. It’s never about what we’ve done, it’s feet and toes begin to swell. I grew up in the foothills of Colorado and have about what we can do, what we can contribute and how we can help make spent a lot of time running trails and being in the mountains. In the early the world better. My whole career has been about trying to make products ’90s, I was associated with the Leadville Trail 100 and got to experience the that improve people’s lives. Granted, it’s only shoes, but when you do it right, early days of endurance trail racing in the U.S. It’s a big reason why I’m so folks really appreciate it, and that’s a rewarding feeling. excited about the direction of our new Trail line.

What’s your take on the current state of the athletic market, and why might Topo be well positioned? A lot of the recent growth in athletic has been driven by lifestyle, and there are plenty of great household names focused on that. But like every time in history, if you make a functional product that breaks through to a user and delivers a better experience, you’ll likely succeed, regardless of the market environment. It’s true whether you’re a store owner, a brand or even a component supplier. We just focus on how can we make a product that delivers a better experience to that specific user. So many brands talk about technology, I sometimes feel like the craftsmanship and fit get overlooked. Yet that’s where Topo excels, and why we’re positioned for continued success. Another observation comes from the recent OR show where buyers described how Millennials are seeking outdoor experiences. REI, for example, is capturing 20- to 35-year-olds who’ve developed an appreciation for an outdoor lifestyle that is budget-friendly and practical. This translates into making gear that is affordable and versatile with functional design, quality and authenticity. We’re seeing traction from Millennials who are drawn to the durability, versatility and value of our brand.

Is there anything about this business that surprises you anymore? Are you kidding! I’m always surprised by events in the marketplace. More than that, I’m often inspired by what others have done—new concepts, building great brands, great stores that find new ways to connect more deeply with their customers. I’m inspired by the courage and curiosity of others to find a new way or rediscover their roots.

Why is Topo’s joining the Conservation Alliance important? Access to national parks and public lands growing up helped shape who I am as a person.

I enjoy trail running, mountain biking, hiking, skiing… But it’s more than appreciation for nature, it’s a deeper yearning to connect with our natural surroundings. I believe that access to all these special places is central to

U P C L O S E AT H L E T I C

Terrestrial Times Body Glove expands collection from performance water to land casuals.

BODY GLOVE, AN innovator in water sports apparel for more than 65 years, is continuing its rapid growth by taking its Southern California aesthetic beyond water sports footwear. “We’re known for our performance water shoes, and they drive business,” says Brad Gruber, footwear president. “But our new sandals and casual sneakers have a comfort factor, and they’re inspired by our Southern California roots.”

The company, a division of Marquee Brands, saw sales spike last year after Sarah Lacina won Survivor: Game Changers wearing Body Glove’s 3T water shoes. “She bought a pair without us knowing about it, and once she won she gave credit to our shoes,” Gruber says. Lacina is now a brand ambassador, and she represents the ideal Body Glove customer: an active person with a zest for outdoor activities like water sports and skateboarding. Price points cover a range of customer, from pros looking for $100 performance water shoes to families who want a reliable $40 shoe. On the non-performance side, prices range from $15 flip-flops to $30 aqua socks.

For Spring ’19, Body Glove’s sandals are getting a comfort upgrade with what Gruber calls the “squish factor.”

“Comfort in our sandals have been driving the business,” he says, explaining they are launching two new styles for men and women. The season will also see the expansion of lifestyles sneakers, first released this year. Both slip-on and lace-up canvas sneakers have been popular to date, and the new collection will add suede and leather uppers. Prints for select styles are pulled from Body Glove swim collections for coordination.

With the expanded style range, distribution is growing beyond outdoor shops, marinas and water parks, reports Gruber. “The sandals are more mainstream and will be sold through everything from beach shops to family shoe stores,” he says, adding the price point makes the line desirable for boutique shops regardless of season. “Boutiques have a more discerning clientele and better average price per sale, allowing the brand to be on the shelves year-round,” Gruber says. —Aleda Johnson 44 footwearplusmagazine.com • september 2018

The Right Mix Cocktail Sneakers go from boardroom to bar.

FOR YEARS BEFORE founding Cocktail Sneakers, Susan Hassett had been looking for the perfect pair of sneakers. While sitting at a cocktail hour beachside on Nantucket, she had had enough. “I had been shopping for a sneaker smart enough for an impromptu meeting and polished enough for after sunset, but every sneaker in sight looked like a gym shoe,” she recalls. “I just needed a great pair of ‘cocktail sneakers’!”

Hassett shifted from a career in volunteerism to creating Cocktail Sneakers, a brand inspired and created by women refusing to let age, gender or an inflexible corporate culture define or limit them. “We’re doing what would have been impossible a generation ago, and something that’s still truly revolutionary today in this industry,” she says, noting that the woman-centric collection challenges the male-dominated sneaker industry in both design and implementation. It includes development by an all-female team based in Brooklyn, NY, and manufacturing in the female-owned factory in China.

“We’re in an exciting time for women,” Hassett adds. “We can lead extraordinarily full lives, balancing careers, family, friendships and volunteerism.”

The initial Cocktail Sneakers collection features four styles in several colorways with comfort components that compliment a stylish yet active woman’s lifestyle. The almond-shaped toe and thin, skid-resistant sole give each style an elevated sense of femininity. The calfskin construction and detailing like a signature sunset-orange sock lining made of breathable kidskin gives a sense of luxury while the custom insoles are made of high-density, closed-cell foam with a deep heel cup for better support and shock absorption. (Suggested retail prices range from $195 to $225.) Each sneaker, Hassett claims, is a noticeable departure from the Nike, Adidas, Allbirds and Balenciaga styles women have been sporting of late. “Simply adding colors, cut-outs, bulk, bangles or straps to athletic sneakers just doesn’t do it,” she says.

Cocktail Sneakers is available direct online and in select boutiques nationwide. Hassett plans on partnering with more boutiques in key markets by year’s end. The initial feedback from retailers and customers is strong. (It’s also being compiled to help design future collections.) “I believe feminine sensibilities have been ignored and that the women’s sneaker market has been underserved, but that’s being challenged now by the women behind Cocktail Sneakers,” she says. “My hope is to be judged not only by our innovations and styles but by the professionalism we demonstrate in our plan’s execution.”

Hassett says the Cocktail Sneakers women spans young Millennials to active moms to professionals. Examples include a bride who donned the lacy Occasion style at her destination wedding in Italy and an attorney who felt comfortable wearing the blue slip-on Professional in court. “The Cocktail Sneakers woman understands the root of her selfconfidence, and ensures it by investing in family, friends, work, philanthropy, community and creativity,” Hassett says. “She’s a strong woman who chases everything she’s after, but she doesn’t always need to wear stilettos to make her point or look beautiful.” —A.J.

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