Footwear Plus | October/November 2020

OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2020 VOL 30 • ISSUE 9 • $10

GEAR GUYS Hikers, Trail Runners & Sport Sandals for Weekend Warriors

What’s New in Work / Safety for Spring ’21 This Just In: Tokyo Dudes Pandemic, Protests & Wildfires...

Keen’s Epic Story of Resiliency

O C T O B E R/ N O V E M B E R 202 0 F E AT U R E S 10 The Right Stuff Chris Heffernan, senior vice president and general manager of Keen, lays out the plan of attack amid industry turmoil.

By Greg Dutter

Caroline Diaco President/Group Publisher Greg Dutter Editorial Director Nancy Campbell Trevett McCandliss Creative Directors EDITORIAL

16 Back to Work!

Clocking in on what’s new

Emily Beckman Associate Editor

and noteworthy in work/ safety for Spring ’21.

Kathy Passero Editor at Large

By Greg Dutter 22 Disco Fever Funky, chunky and fabulous—designers head on down to Funkytown.

By Nancy Campbell 24 Outdoor Life From the woods to the waters and anywhere in between, styles fit for adventure.

By Nancy Campbell

D E PA RT M E N T S 4 Editor’s Note 6 This Just In 8 Scene & Heard 21 A Note to My Younger Self

Kirstin Koba Contributing Editor Melodie Jeng Marcy Swingle Momo Angela Contributing Photographers ADVERTISING/ PRODUCTION Jennifer Craig Associate Publisher Laurie Guptil Production Manager Kathy Wenzler Circulation Director Catherine Rosario Office Manager Mike Hoff Digital Director WAINSCOT MEDIA Carroll Dowden Chairman Mark Dowden President & CEO Steven J. Resnick Vice President & CFO

36 Upclose Comfort 38 Shoe Salon 40 Last Shot

On cover: leather boots by Quoddy.

This page: The Original Muck Boot Company waterproof mocs.

PA G E

24

Photography by Trevett McCandliss; model: Daje/Fenton Model Mgmt.; stylist: Nancy Campbell.

OFFICES ADVERTISING/EDITORIAL

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FOOTWEAR PLUS ™ (ISSN#1054-898X) The fashion magazine of the footwear industry is published monthly (except for bimonthly April/May and October/November editions) by Wainscot Media, One Maynard Drive, Park Ridge, NJ, 07656. The publishers of this magazine do not accept responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage is paid in Park Ridge, NJ, and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: $48 in the U.S. Rates outside the U.S. are available upon request. Single copy price: $10.

POSTMASTER: Send address changes to FOOTWEAR PLUS, P.O. Box 8548, Lowell, MA 01853-8548. Publisher not responsible for unsolicited articles or photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender. Wainscot Media will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. No portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. ©2008 by Wainscot Media. Printed in the United States.

2 footwearplusmagazine.com • october/november 2020

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E D ITOR ’S NOT E

The Ties That Bind

I’m Sticking with You I WAS ABOUT 9 years old. I was hanging around some of the older neighborhood kids of Plymouth Avenue one fall afternoon, listening in on their conversation about football. There were Packers, Giants, Dolphins and Vikings fans among the gang—all of them making fervent cases as to why their team would be Super Bowl champs that year.

They cited players, statistics and strategy, and they scoffed (cussed) when anyone disagreed with their expert analysis.

I was happy just to be soaking it all in—until one of the kids glanced over and asked me who my favorite team was. All eyes were suddenly on me. I didn’t have one! I braced for banishment from the gang after I confessed. Much to my surprise, however, a chorus of suggestions were thrown my way. (Apparently, it was more important to have any favorite team than none at all.) Bears, Steelers and Rams, I quickly learned, were all “good teams” and worthy of my loyalty. I chose the Rams, right then and there, and I’ve stuck with them from Los Angeles to St. Louis (2000 Super Bowl champs!) and back to L.A. Once I pledge allegiance, there’s no going back.

The same goes for my being a lifelong Baltimore Orioles fan, a loyalty that was tested regularly growing up in northeastern New Jersey, i.e.

Yankees country. Whenever I dared to don a black-and-orange cap, I’d be met with sneers and jeers. But I’d never switch sides. For starters, my father, who brainwashed my siblings and me from birth to back the Birds, would probably have disowned me. Beyond that, I couldn’t quit on them, even though, over a good portion of the past 30 years or so, they’ve turned losing into an art form. I see it as a test of my faith to believe that next season will be better. It’s also a badge of honor to stick with the team through the (many) lows and (few) highs. It makes the good years all the sweeter. By contrast, as I like to tease, it’s easy being a Yankees fan.

I take pride in my out-of-market sports team fandom. It’s a part of my identity and, as my mother would say, a reflection of my stubborn independent streak. I refuse to root lockstep with the local masses. Even being a Devils hockey fan makes me an outlier among legions of Garden State–based Rangers and Islanders fans, many of whom I respect for not

switching sides when the Devils moved to their state. For the record, I made a hometown fan exception in this instance, mainly because if there was ever a state in need of supporters, it’s New Jersey. And while I don’t reside there anymore, my loyalty to Jerzee runs Springsteen deep.

In my case, the ties that bind stretch well beyond sports. For example, I went to the same hairdresser for more than 20 years (making me the longest-lasting client of his career). I followed him from salon to salon throughout lower Manhattan until, tragically, he passed away due to Covid-19 this spring. He was a cut above and quite the character. I’ll miss him. I’ve also been working at Footwear Plus for 27 years and alongside publisher Caroline Diaco for about 25 of them. Our associate publisher, Jenn Craig, joined our team 17 years ago. We are deeply loyal to each other—and to the industry we cover. Our bonds go way beyond “business.” We’ve watched kids in the biz grow up. We’ve seen them go off to college and we’ve seen a bunch take the reins of their family businesses, completing a circle of life that leaves their parents absolutely beaming with pride.

Over the decades, we’ve ridden out the industry’s highs and lows in step with our valued partners, friends and colleagues. Through good times and bad, we’ve seen brands and stores come and go and, oftentimes, come back again. (Openness to reincarnation efforts is one of our industry’s wonderful traits.) Of course, nothing stacks up against the fallout of this pandemic. The die-off is truly epic. It makes the Financial Crisis of 2009 seem like a walk in the park. We worked through that and many other bumps in the road, only to emerge stronger and wiser. We’re proud to feature survival stories like this month’s Q&A with Chris Heffernan, general manager of Keen (p. 10). They provide inspiration as well as potential cues for others to follow. Businesses can pivot and prosper. It can be done, and here’s the story in Footwear Plus...

That’s the solution-oriented essence of our magazine, which is celebrating its 30th anniversary this year. Unfortunately, 2020 put the kibosh on plans for a commemorative issue. It’s just not the right time to mark such a milestone. But we remain as driven and loyal as ever to covering our beloved industry—a trusted source for brands and retailers. Some things never change, at least not if I have anything to say about it.

Greg Dutter

Editorial Director

4 footwearplusmagazine.com • october/november 2020

for

&

THIS JUST IN

Rising Sons Amid the quiet (pandemic) streets of Tokyo, men get back to basics: black, white and dapper.

Photography by Momo Angela

6 footwearplusmagazine.com • october/november 2020

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SCENE & HEARD

Camper Collab Knocks on Wood THE SEEDS OF the collaboration were laid in 2017. Camper, an early adopter of sustainable materials, sought to take such efforts to a higher level and reached out to the Lenzig Group and its Tencel lyocell fibers.

The wood-based material is nothing short of a miracle material when it comes to sustainable design.

Harvested from certified and controlled sources, Tencel is resource efficient and has a low ecological impact. Compared to polyester, the fibers are fully biodegradable and avoid contributing to micro plastics. (Shoes are traditionally large contributors to micro plastics pollution). Compared to conventional cotton, Tencel uses 95 percent less water than traditional alternatives. What’s more, the fiber is soft and breathable due to its inherent moisture management properties. Finally, it’s not ugly.

“From a designer’s perspective, some natural materials can have more limited aesthetic opportunities, sustainable materials often have a higher unit cost and some materials are not durable,” says Cecilia Llorens, product designer at Camper. Tencel, she says, is none of the above. Birgit Schnetzlinger, head of global business development Functional Wear for Lenzing, says Tencel meets matters of sustainability, style and comfort. “Combined with eco-friendly manufacturing processes, the collaboration results in boots and booties (SRP: $150 to $170) that are all of the above,” she says.

The Covid-19 pandemic has only made consumer interest in sustainable materials increase, Schnetzlinger says. And due to online shopping’s growing popularity, it doesn’t look to ebb any time soon.

“Online is a sales channel widely accepted among the younger, often more critical generation,” she says, noting that the platform allows for more in-depth product education. “They want to know where the product is coming from and ask for transparency.” She adds that the decrease in disposable income might also make consumers more conscious about purchase decisions, rather than ones based on short-term trends and seasonality.

Llorens says Camper also sees shopping online, a quest for quality and a movement towards sustainability as key trends—ones that have only spiked due to world’s new ways of working and living. “With more time and ease to look at ingredients when making online purchases, it’s natural that consumers are looking at the composition of their footwear,” she says. But to really move the needle, the entire industry must join the sustainability effort, she adds. Collaboration across brands and internally is the path to meaningful change. It must be vertical, horizontal and holistic. “We need to be open to doing things in new ways and to work more for collective good,” Llorens says, adding that Camper’s goal by 2022 is uppers and linings free of virgin plastic and by 2030 to eliminate any material that has a negative impact. “We must recognize that we all have a lot to do or, as we say at Camper, ‘a little better, never perfect.’ We can always do better.”

Wood, i.e.

Tencel fibers, never looked so good.

8 footwearplusmagazine.com • october/november 2020

Kicks heaven: 1,000 styles await Windy City shoppers.

Stadium Goods Opens Chicago Flagship FIRST IT WAS Soho, New York’s luxury shopping mecca, and for Stadium Goods’ second location it’s Chicago’s Magnificent Mile. The sneaker and streetwear marketplace opened its doors (60 Walton St.) on Oct. 1, a two-level space that spans 6,000 square feet in one of the country’s sneaker meccas.

“Chicago has an incredible sneaker culture, beginning with the ‘Chicago’ Jordan 1 to being the hometown of contemporary sneaker design leaders like Kanye West and Virgil Abloh,” says John McPheters, co-founder and co-CEO of Stadium Goods. “Stadium Goods is built on a foundation of culture and community, and being a part of the Chicago community was a huge draw.” Adds Jed Stiller, co-founder and co-CEO, “By being on the Magnificent Mile, we’re in the company of some of the finest luxury brands in the world, and the products we sell are luxury items for this generation, so we fit right in.”

The first floor features a 60-feet long by 16-feet high shoe wall holding more than 800 styles. Overall, the floor showcases approximately 1,000 sneakers, spanning rare and classic styles as well as current best-sellers.

The second floor shows off the resale retailer’s apparel selection and provides a space for customers to connect. It features a glass and brushed stainless steel modular merchandising system inspired by the skyscraper architecture of Chicago. The floor will eventually host bespoke displays and events. “Ultimately, we wanted to craft a space that speaks to the community and culture that Stadium Goods exemplifies, all set within a luxe, premium retail aesthetic that matches the craftsmanship and storytelling behind the products we sell,” McPheters says.

While the pandemic delayed the opening from spring, McPheters and Stiller remain bullish on brick-and-mortar as a key to Stadium Goods’ overall concept. “We want to make sure there’s a physical space for the sneaker and streetwear community, where longtime connoisseurs can get together to share in their love of this culture and people new to it could feel welcome,” he says. “It also serves as an amazing live environment to produce content that we’ll use across all of our channels.”

As for 2020, Stadium Goods is not pandemic-proof, but Stiller reports the business has thrived. “Our consignment model has proven to be extremely successful, and we’ve found additional efficiencies that have allowed us to be nimble in uncertain times,” he says. “Our Stadium Goods apparel business has also seen a big increase in popularity, and sneaker resale has been a firmly established market for some time.”

W H O W E A R E We work at wooden benches with leather, needle, thread, and a few basic tools. We stitch, coax, and charm these humble materials into beautiful footwear.

Our methods go back centuries, back to the native Passamaquoddy.

Made to cradle your foot in comfort. Meant to last a lifetime because they can be renewed by the same hands that created them.

Here, these skills have been passed down through generations.

Here, we stubbornly resist trading human touch for industrial efďŹ ciency.

Here, output is measured in dozens, not thousands. www.Quoddy.com • Contact: Charlie Liberge, Charlie@quoddy.com

9

Q&A

BY GREG

DUTTER

THE RIGHT STUFF

Chris Heffernan, senior vice president and general manager of Keen, l a y s o u t t h e c o m p a n y ’s p l a n o f a t t a c k — o n e t h a t p r e s s e s f o r w a r d , p i v o t s and pounces—amid unprecedented industry turmoil.

IN DECEMBER OF 2019, pre-killer pandemic and subsequent economic collapse, the business outlook for Keen Utility was quite bullish.

Record employment and a booming stock market served as the backdrop for Chris Heffernan, then general manager of the company’s work division, to go all in for 2020. The brand been on a roll over the past few years, climbing the market leaderboard to top-three status, and Heffernan believed the coming year would be even better—he projected a 30 percent increase in year-on-year sales.

“The economy was going great, employment was high, boots were moving…It was all very healthy,” Heffernan recalls. “So we bought a ton of inventory.”

Specifically, Keen Utility transitioned one of its biggest boots to a higher performing outsole and bought deep based on the style’s proven track record. In addition, Heffernan invested heavily in the brand’s athletic-inspired work collection, which had caught fire the prior year. “We literally bought 40 percent more inventory than we needed for the whole previous spring season,” he says.

This was no reckless gamble. Heffernan possesses years of work footwear brand management experience, having been at Timberland Pro in its salad days before managing Honeywell’s footwear division (led by Muck Boot and Xtratuf brands) and stopping briefly at Wolverine. He knows a good work shoe when he sees one, and he knows what levers to pull and when to pounce to take a brand to the next level in the category. Heffernan was confident that Keen Utility, at the dawn of a 10 footwearplusmagazine.com • october/november 2020

Q&A

new decade, met the criteria.

Then the entire world changed, and even the best-laid plans went out the window as the Covid-19 pandemic took hold. In mid-March, with countries falling into lockdown like dominos, Keen shifted into crisis management mode—starting with daily 6 a.m. global conference calls. “We thought we’d be down about 35 percent for the year,” Heffernan says. “So we snapped pretty hard in terms of cutting expenses, overhead and people.”

Named general manager of the entire company in the spring, Heffernan had his work cut out for him. Fortunately, his military training—he’s a former U.S. Navy jet navigator—has come in handy.

Specifically, he drew on his training in leading people during stressful situations. He credits a former officer’s sage advice: always put the team’s needs ahead of one’s own in order to get the job done. “I’ve always taken that to heart: Make sure your team is fired up and feels empowered to do their jobs. Trust them and take care of them as best you can,” Heffernan says.

Of course, that’s easier said than done when you’re facing a volatile new normal. There’s no industry playbook for the pandemic-induced fallout. What’s more, Heffernan had to get up to speed on Keen’s outdoor and kids’ divisions—overnight. “Inheriting such a large team—and having to do it over Zoom— has been a fascinating learning curve,” he admits.

“But I love it. I’m always up for a good challenge.”

Like all good leaders, Heffernan credits his team for implementing the changes—atop increased workloads. “Everyone is killing themselves trying to do the right thing for the company, our retail partners, our customers and the planet,” he says.

“Being with a great group, fighting that good fight and trying to make sure everyone is ok has been incredibly rewarding.”

Heffernan cites several moves that have worked particularly well for Keen. The first, made at the onset of the pandemic, was donating 100,000 pairs of shoes (a $5 million value) to frontline workers as part of its “Together We Can Help” initiative.

“In times of global crisis, Keen always goes right to work to help out,” Heffernan says, noting that allowing consumers to nominate the recipients added another layer of connectivity with the brand.

“It was a huge success,” he adds.

Soon after, Keen converted a production line in its company-owned factory in Thailand to create masks. To date, Keen has donated 250,000 masks, including 15,000 to fellow Portland, OR–based Fred Meyer grocery stores last spring. Word quickly spread of Keen’s mask-making capabilities, and paid orders have poured in to the tune of nearly nine million masks. “We’ve had a mask success story that we weren’t even thinking about until March 13th,” Heffernan says. “It’s been a huge

OFF THE C UFF What are you reading? A River Runs Through It, my go-to book. I’ve read it at least 15 times. I love fly fishing, and I just appreciate how eloquently written it is.

What was the last movie you saw? Close Encounters of the Third Kind, because my 21-yearold daughter told me she had never seen it, and I felt like I had failed her as a parent by never having worked that into the repertoire.

What did you want to be when you grew up? I always wanted to fly and came as close as possible as a navigator in the U.S. Navy. I crapped out during my flight physical, so I sat in the front seat instead.

What was your first-ever paying job? Outside of mowing lawns and stuff in high school, the Navy was my first paying job. I received an ROTC scholarship to Cornell, and the Navy had me for a number of years after that.

Who is your most coveted dinner guest? Mike Mills of R.E.M. He’s buddies with my wife’s cousin and her husband, and I actually got to meet him at a New Year’s Eve party they threw. But the whole night I tried not to be the guy who asks a bunch of questions. Meanwhile, everyone else was doing just that. I realized later that I got nothing out of that and it was kind of a bummer.

What are you most proud of?

My kids, hands-down. Workwise, what we’ve been doing on Keen Utility of late. I’m pretty excited by what that business has turned into.

blessing for our business—enough to move the needle and save some jobs.”

Another key decision: Keen didn’t pull the plug on production. The belief, Heffernan says, was that business wouldn’t evaporate entirely and that the inventory coming in (hiking, sandals, work and kids’) might still sell. (This wasn’t containers full of pumps and wingtips.) “We felt it was premature to make that call, but we could slow production down if we needed to three or four months down the road,” he says. “Whereas, many of our competitors turned production off immediately and now a lot of retailers are short on product. We’ve been getting a lot of calls, and a lot of it is new distribution. It’s been a good opportunity.”

Next up: Keen chose not to furlough its sales team. Instead, Heffernan first instructed them to extend dating by 30 days and, soon after, had them offer a Fit Shield that Keen developed to create a

12 footwearplusmagazine.com • october/november 2020

What might people be surprised to know about you? I play the piano, but only for my wife.

What is your motto? I’m a military dude and I always go back to Admiral James Stockdale, who described his time as a P.O.W. and that you must have unwavering faith that you are going to make it through, but you can’t ignore the brutal circumstances.

What is your favorite hometown memory? I was born in Troy, NY, but my dad was a G.E. brat and we moved every four or five years throughout New England. My favorite memory is living in western Massachusetts. It’s a beautiful area and a great place to grow up, being outside hiking and fishing.

safe in-store fitting experience. “Many retailers were just so unprepared in how to service customers once they reopened, so we gave them a kit on how to help them succeed,” he says. Perhaps of bigger significance, Heffernan invested in training its sales reps on all aspects of digital marketing. “We got their websites up to speed and taught them how to engage their accounts digitally during the downtime,” he says, citing instruction on how to present a collection over Zoom so the brand and the product look good as one example. “We’ve worked triple time to help our partners, and we’ve had a lot of positive commentary and are seeing it pay off now.”

Still, Heffernan doesn’t anticipate smooth sailing anytime soon—not without a vaccine/ cure, for starters. The company is still operating in crisis mode, albeit at a toned-down level. (The 6 a.m. conference calls only happen a couple of

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Q&A times a week now.) That’s because Keen has pivoted during the pandemic, and weathered 100-plus days of BLM protests and riots as well as record wildfires. Though 2020 has done its best to deal Keen crippling blows, the company is still chugging along. Heffernan takes great pride in this, and he’s confident that better days lie ahead. “We’re pretty bullish on next year,” he confirms. “There are a million questions with the virus, but we’ve learned to be in inventory on our best products, and if we’re going to do something big, to do it in a limited number because no one has the appetite for adopting a ton of new stuff right now. Hopefully we can steal a little share in this game and keep growing. I think we’ll be all right.”

Apandemic,lockdowns,protests,riots,wildfires…whatelsecan2020throwatKeen?

A swarm of locusts has got to be around the corner. I mean, this year has been endless and unbelievably challenging to manage through. During the wildfires, the air quality index here was over 500. Beijing is about 70. Being in the worst place on earth for weeks to breathe air says a lot. It has taken a toll. We’re just begging for some level of normalcy to return in any way, shape or form. But I’m so proud of the team who has worked triple time. We have great results to show for it.

Was there ever a point where you, personally, felt you might hit a breaking point?

Oh, yes. The mayor lives across the street from my family and the nightly protests outside his house would go until about 2 a.m., then the police would arrive and to try and break it up by 3 a.m. and I’ve got to be on a 6 a.m. conference call. A number of our employees had to be temporarily evacuated from their homes because of the fires. Being uprooted like that is terrifying.

We also have a lot of workers with young kids and many of them, once they

get home, have to take on teaching duties. Trying to balance work and keeping your first grader focused…it’s all very trying. So a lot of long nights and long days, but we’re getting there. It’s gotten better lately, because the business is really working out given where we thought it would be. So that’s awesome, but people are tired.

As the day-to-day leader, how do you keep the team’s drive going without them crashing and burning under such stressful conditions?

One: a lot of communication, which we could always do a better job at. Just letting everyone know how we’re doing results-wise has really helped. Informing them that their hard work is paying off and if we hit certain milestones, may we’ll be able to rehire some staff. So lots and lots of cheerleading, overall.

The FDRA (Footwear Distributors and Retailers of America) has described the current state of the industry as the worst in history. Is it?

It’s the most confusing time ever. But there’s tons of opportunity, which we are excited about. For example, everyone has learned how important digital marketing is now. That’s where the eyeballs are. If you’re trying to build a brand, product and a loyal following, then you better get smart quick on digital marketing. How to reach them, talk to them, educate them, know them, embrace them…that goes for brands and retailers. It’s also a great time to be in the outdoor market as there are loads of opportunities. So there’s this upside for Keen up against this horrible pandemic. We’ve got a million different dynamics happening at once, from the election, the economy, job losses, people being overwhelmed…it’s just been crazy. I’ve never seen so many forces come together at once.

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Is Keen actually well-positioned for this pandemic?

Trust me, the whole thing has been absolutely horrible and we could have lived without all of it. That aside, I think it’s been helping the outdoor industry, which had been flat and hurting for the past number of years. It’s good to see people rediscovering the outdoors and what that can do for their mental and physical well-being. We’re encouraged on that front. It’s helping our business, but it’s not a given and there’s lots of competition in that market.

Was there any so-called pent-up demand once stores began reopening?

The pent-up demand we’ve seen is in hiking and kids’. Those categories seem to be really moving, and I think REI would tell you the exact same thing. Winter products are starting to move now as well. Our accounts are reporting that they’re having hard time keeping up with inventory. People need to plan for winter.

Speaking of which, the decision to keep making shoes turned out to be quite fortuitous.

Honestly, had we not owned our factories it would have been easier to cut production. We wanted to keep them employed. Plus, we had everything lined up, so we decided why not at least make the stuff we have, get it here and maybe something will start to click. We also knew that we really needed to up our digital marketing efforts on our website and feed any orders made there as well as from Amazon, Backcountry, Moosejaw, etc. that were still open. So why not try and capture as much market share during that time as possible. In addition, many of our Utility customers were still on job sites and warehouses were cranking. Also, a lot of those retail accounts were allowed to stay open as essential businesses. While our at-once sales were depressed,

they were still significant. In fact, our Utility sales are above where we were at this point last year and we’ll likely be up for the year.

What’s your outlook for Spring ’21?

I think the outdoor category will see a lot of dynamics that Utility already has.

Utility is about an 85 percent at-once business, whereas outdoor is almost the exact opposite. But I think at-once need is going to be really big this spring, and we’ll have inventory for our accounts. Maybe by next fall we’ll see more normal buying patterns.

Can you expect more normal buying patterns when Spring ’21 could be anything but normal?

That’s a good point, but we’re kind of blessed in having big sandals and hiking businesses. Those work 12 months a year and can also offset each other. People are still going to go outside, with or without Covid-19, next year. It’s more a decision regarding how many new great ideas can Keen bring to market in this climate? We’ve had to scale back on that. Let’s just do a couple, but let’s do them really big. We’ll see what happens and, in the meantime, we’ll make sure we’re in stock on the basics that we’re confident will sell.

Is it, in fact, a new normal? Can retailers survive these conditions, short of a second lockdown?

I think footwear is a little blessed because of the strength right now in the outdoor and running markets. Some of those retailers will probably thrive.

But all retailers better learn the digital aspect. How are you going to reach people, because your stores may not be open? You still have to be able to engage with customers. If you’re not, then it’s going to be a lot harder > 39

BACK TO WORK! HERE’S WHAT’S IN STORE FOR

SPRING ’21 IN THE OCCUPATIONAL/ SAFETY MARKET.

Keen

Danner

In a word: Sporty.

In a word: Classic.

The goods: Built for indoor manufacturing environments, the lightweight work sneaker features a compression-resisting Keen.

ReGen midsole that returns 50 percent more energy than standard EVA; non-marring, two-layer mesh upper provides increased breathability; Keen.

KonnectFit heel capture system lock heel in place for stability; asymmetrical carbon fiber toe 15 percent lighter than steel; and oil- and slip-resistant outsole.

The goods: Built in the USA, the utilitarian work boot features full-grain oiled leather upper that’s strong and soft; oil-, slip- and non-marking Wedge outsole; electrical hazard-resistant; steel shank, re-engineered footbed that flows with the anatomy of the foot and room for a soft and sturdy OrthoLite footbed; recraftable.

Vista Energy Low

Bull Run

SRP: $120

16 footwearplusmagazine.com • october/november 2020

SRP: $170

No guarantees until a Covid-19 vaccine/cure, but come this spring the world is planning/praying to be back at work in (much) greater force. Demand for work footwear is forecasted to be up significantly.

In many instances, people working on the front lines never stopped—the occupational category has been one of the few categories that has performed through the pandemic—and inventories are low. It’s time to stock up.

What’s more, brands haven’t quit on introducing breakthrough technologies that address the durability, comfort and safety needs of workers spanning hospitals to warehouses to construction sites. Versatility in terms of end-use and style continues to be the calling card. These boots and shoes help get the job done—safely. The fact that they look good off the clock is a well-earned bonus. —Greg Dutter

Twisted X

Wolverine

In a word: Hybrid.

In a word: Versatile.

The Goods: The men’s 4-inch work boot comes in durable, full-grain oiled leather upper and features patented CellStretch comfort technology combined with compression-molded EVA midsole and a nylon/ glass fiber shank, ensuring every step is stable and comfortable. A lightweight composite safety toe meets/exceeds ASTM standard and an enhanced rubber outsole provides additional slip resistance in water and oil.

The Goods: The hybrid hiker features removable DuraShocks cushioning footbed to combat fatigue and discomfort; an UltraSpring midsole that provides a lightweight, energized ride; and a stretchy breathable mesh upper for comfort with a reinforced TPU cage for added durability. The carbonMAX safety toe and slip-resistant rubber lug outsole meets ASTM safety needs without the added weight of steel.

MXCC004

Rev

SRP: $165

SRP: $159.95

2020 october/november • footwearplusmagazine.com 17

Aetrex Bondi

In a word: Light.

The goods: Made from UltraSKY injected EVA (so light the clog floats), features include builtin arch support to stabilize and align the foot; a memory foam footbed for cushioning and shock absorption; metatarsal support to reduce ballof-foot discomfort; and water-friendly construction.

SRP: $59.95

Blundstone 990

In a word: Dependable.

The goods: Water-resistant leather upper, TPU bump cap and a Comfort Arch footbed for all-day cushioning and support. Broad fitting 200 Joule impact-resistant steel toe cap (the safest material available, providing the highest levels of resistance against rolling side compression and cuts). Electrical hazard resistant and slip- and heat-resistant outsole up to at least 572°F. SRP: 209.95

Rockport

Prime Time Casuals Work In a word: Smooth.

The goods: Full-grain leather slip-on features padded tongue and collar, moisture-wicking mesh lining for breathability, removable EVA and Memory Foam footbed with truTECH heel design for lightweight shock absorption, and rubber outsole.

SRP: $133

Easy Works Letsee

In a word: Sassy.

The goods: Mary-Jane with a hook-and-loop strap features a slip-resistant, non-marking, impact-absorbing, anti-microbial, ultra-light and flexible sole. Generous toe box is enhanced with the exclusive Easy Motion Pro Comfort footbed. Available in sizes 5-12 and widths medium, wide and extra-wide.

SRP: $49.95

Reebok Flexagon

Chooka

Classic Ankle In a word: Dry.

In a word: Fast.

The goods: The work jogger is led by an Origami-inspired EVA Foam Flexagon midsole with MemoryTech footbed for super-soft cushioning; breathable nylon/mesh upper; slip-resistant flex groove rubber outsole; ASTM standard lightweight XTR composite toe.

SRP: $121

18 footwearplusmagazine.com • october/november 2020

The goods: Waterproof rain boot is made of Ultra HC rubber for flex and durability and features 5 mm removable memory foam insole and traction outsole. Open stock availability.

SRP: $80

MXCCM01

8� Work Boot in Distressed Saddle

twistedx.com

|

888.894.2668

Dansko LT Pro

In a word: Sensible.

The goods: Led by an APMA Seal of Acceptance for promoting good foot health, the lightweight clog features a cushioned footbed, a patent-pending compression-molded EVA outsole and leather socklinings. The upper is a stain-resistant and wipe-clean leather.

Available in a range of exclusive novelty prints.

Western Chief

Woodway Expedition In a word: Textbook.

The goods: Water-resistant leather work boot features a PU memory foam footbed, Goodyear welted construction, durable pull tabs and rugged rubber outsole. Open stock availability.

SRP: $80

SRP: $140

Spring Step Power-Blades In a word: Sharp.

The goods: Athleisure leather slip-on with embroidered tattoo-inspired knives deign on the vamp features side elastics for easy-on/off; a triple density, moisture-wicking, antibacterial, removable textile insole; padded heel collar and flexible forefoot; and PU/TPR skid- and oilresistant outsole.

SRP: $99.99

Hytest Skechers Work Malad Comp Toe In a word: Muscle.

The Goods: The jogger features a lightweight ASTM standard composite toe; electrical hazard safe design; durable synthetic/mesh upper with front and side cooling panels; Air-Cooled Memory Foam insole; and a flexible, hightraction rubber outsole.

FootRests 2.0 In a word: Bold.

The goods: The waterproof hiker features an abrasion-resistant TecTuff upper; a caged lacing system; lightweight Xergy anti-fatigue midsole; and FootHolds oil- and slip-resistant outsole.

The new CoreTemp lining absorbs heat to create a cooling effect and releases stored heat to warm for all-day temperature control and comfort.

SRP: $185

SRP: $90

Florsheim

Adventure Series In a word: Subtle.

The goods: A crossover design suitable for the office, warehouse and job site, this knit upper sneaker offers flexibility and breathability, cushioned Comfortech footbed with high rebound foam for long-term wear, slip-resistant rubber wedge outsole and ASTM standard steel toe.

SRP: $136

20 footwearplusmagazine.com • october/november 2020

A N OT E T O M Y Y O U N G E R S E L F

F A T E A N D F A M I LY Jim Bosco, CEO of Bos. & Co., looks back on a career filled with good f o r t u n e , s t r o n g b l o o d l i n e s a n d o n e m e m o r a b l e c o ff e e b r e a k . who, coincidently, is George Bass, CEO of Bass Shoe Co. The conversaDEAR JIM...You are 17 years old and leaving your hometown of tion leads to shoe manufacturing. Specifically, Bass says his company is Oshawa, Ontario, for the first time. You’ve helped your parents in the having a problem with its sandals—the straps keep pulling out. You tell family restaurant business, working after school and summers, since him Susan Shoes had a similar problem but found a solution, and that you were 11. But it’s great to finally have a summer off as a member of your company wouldn’t mind sharing it. Bass sends his designer to the the Navy League Sea Cadets’ youth group. You and 15 others have been Bata factory and is thrilled with the remedy. In turn, he invites you to selected from more than 500 nominees to attend the six-week leadership the Bass factory in Wilton, ME, where you are shown a red flannel-lined, course at H.M.C.S. Stadcona, a navy base in Halifax, Nova Scotia. You quilted, “puffy-looking” boot on a moccasin sole. Bass offers to share the have the time of your life. But then it’s back to Oshawa and…a dilemma: design and leather in appreciation for Susan Shoes’ help in solving its WHAT TO DO?!? Do you go back to school, work in the family busisandal problem. ness, join the navy...

You return with the idea of a puffy boot. Susan Shoes likes the concept, Amid this period of soul searching, a friend informs you that Bata Shoes only swapping the moccasin sole for a T.P.R. unit sole. Around that time, is interviewing candidates for its management trainee program. (What you’re driving a Cougar car and decide to contact Ford Motor Company a break this will turn out to be!) In September of 1956, you join a Bata to see if Susan Shoes could license the name for footwear. Ford grants Shoe store in Toronto as a manager trainee. Four months later, you are permission. The Cougar puffy boot, officially known as the Pillow Boot, in Batawa, Ontario, a Bata Shoe company town that consists basically becomes a huge hit—an iconic item of Canadian fashion, in fact. Susan of a five-story factory and some 100 homes rented to employees. (The Shoes, which will become Cougar Shoe Company, has sold over 8 milfactory opened in 1939 when Bata left Czechoslovakia to avoid the Nazi lion pairs and counting to date! Let this always be a reminder to you: invasion.) There, you take part in a six-week trainee course. Mornings Opportunities come from extending a helping consist of classes in shoe making, markethand and stepping out of the box. ing and retail management. Afternoons are In that same spirit, you launch Bos. & spent on the factory floor making shoes. You Co. Footwear in 1989 along with your sons, love all of it! The smell of the leather, the Kevin, as president, and Dean as vice presihands-on manufacturing and the business dent/marketing. This is a complete Bosco of selling shoes. family enterprise as your wife has been a Upon graduation in August of 1957, the valuable contributor throughout the comhead office assigns you to manage a new pany’s 31 years, along with your daughter, store in Orillia, Ontario, two hours north Leah, and daughter-in-law, Kathy. You’re of Toronto. This is where you get your lucky also proud to have recently welcomed the break! It’s where you meet your future wife, third generation of Boscos into the family Ann. She’s the woman of your dreams and business, your grandson, James.

I’m proud to tell you we just celebrated our Bos. & Co. has built its reputation on 58th wedding anniversary in June! waterproof fashion footwear, sourced priYou then move on from Orillia for a short All in the Bosco family: Dean, Jim and Kevin. marily in Portugal and Italy. Many of the stint managing a Bata store in Windsor, factories you first started working with are Ontario. Next, you are promoted to manpartners and friends to this day. In fact, the strong ties lead to a partnerage Bata’s top-volume location in Vancouver, British Columbia. There, ship with Fly London to distribute the brand in North America. Similar you are blessed with the birth of your first son, Kevin. Life is good and, distribution agreements are made with Softinos and Asportuguesas. three years later, in 1964, you are promoted to Bata’s marketing/product Your partnerships are like family. Likewise, the support and long-term development department in Batawa, where you are soon blessed with relationships built with independent retailers is one of your company’s the birth of your second son, Dean. You travel extensively throughout greatest assets, as is your strong sales team. You are nothing without Europe to many of the Bata factories. While it’s not easy being away often your dedicated employees and loyal customers. from your young family, the career experience is immeasurable. You’ve I’m pleased to inform you that a wonderful career awaits you in the shoe already earned an MBA in shoe retailing and now you are well on your business. You work alongside friends and family. You travel the world. way to becoming a manufacturing maven.

You are truly blessed and pay it forward whenever you can. In 2017, you In 1968, you are recruited into the marketing/product development are honored and humbled by Two Ten Foundation of Canada naming department of Susan Shoe Industries in Burlington, Ontario. You are you “Shoe Person of the Year.” A special gala to mark the occasion raises also responsible for key account sales. The job requires extensive travel, over $30,000. You cannot think of another industry in which all sectors developing lines and launching the company’s import division. On a trip and competitors come together to help their own. You also cannot think to Florence, Italy, you take an espresso break near the Ponte Vecchio of another industry where you’d rather spend your career. bridge, striking up a conversation with a gentleman at the next table

2020 october/november • footwearplusmagazine.com 21

FEVER

DISCO

DESIGNERS HEAD TO FUNKYTOWN THIS SPRING.

Azura

Emmshu

Saint G Patrizia

Enjoiya

L’Artiste

GIVE THOSE SLIPPERS A REST AND DANCE THE NIGHT AWAY!

BC

Seychelles

DNA Footwear

Musse & Cloud

2020 october/november • footwearplusmagazine.com 23

Twisted X moc toe hikers with patented CellStretch technology and nylon/glass fiber shank provides comfort, stability and durability.

25

Danner trail shoes feature ultralightweight Plyogo midsole and a Vibram 460 outsole with Megagrip compound for durability and traction on wet and dry surfaces.

26

Leather thongs with gum rubber outsoles by Sperry.

27

Bridging the gap between trail runner, hiker and approach shoe, trail shoe by Tecnica features Vibram Litebase technology and Megagrip compound outsole that provides traction and durability underfoot as well as at the toe and sides.

From top: Skechers trail runner with Air-Cooled Memory Foam insole and Goodyear rubber outsole; waterproof hiker by PropĂŠt with OrthoLite X40 insole and Vibram Arctic Grip outsole; Merrell lightweight trail runner with a Vibran EcoDura outsole and rock plate protection; low-cut hiker by Bearpaw features a mesh/suede upper with rubber toe cap and rugged outsole.

29

30

Left to right: Sport sandal by Chaco features adjustable jacquard webbing with ladder lock buckle, Luvseat EVA midsole and high-abrasion EVA outsole; Florsheim leather sport sandal with adjustable Velcro straps and cushioned EVA outsole.

Keen water sandals with fast-drying TPU uppers and non-marking Aquagrip rubber outsoles with Aqua Stop zonal siping for maximum traction on wet surfaces.

From top: Lace-up sneaker by Ugg features mesh and suede upper and EVA midsole; Geox sneaker features new Zero-Shock system, cradling the foot with two different density EVA layers atop a breathable outsole; Clarks retro-inspired sneaker with breathable textile upper, removable lightweight OrthoLite footbed, EVA midsole and durable rubber outsole.

31

Blundstone Chelsea leather boots with patented SPS Max Comfort System, an ergonomically engineered toe spring with XRD technology in the heel that further reduces wear fatigue.

Hemp upper slip-ons by Reef with a fold-down heel, anatomical arch support and a rebound footbed with cork top sheet for breathability.

33

Left to right: Oboz waterproof trail shoe with new Bend outsole that balances braking and acceleration on the trail or the street; wedge hiker by Wolverine features waterproof leather upper, UltraSpring midsole, nylon shank and rubber lug outsole; Western Chief waterproof moc with twin gore inserts for easy slip-on, PU-mold memory foam footbed and durable rubber outsole.

Model: Daje/Fenton Model Mgmt.; stylist: Nancy Campbell 34

Ecco sport sandals with leather/ textile uppers are built on an anatomical last using FluidForm, a direct-injection process that follows the natural shape of the foot for enhanced support and stability.

35

U P C L O S E C O M F O RT

Left to right: The Trekker and Carlotta styles are made in Italy.

European Accent The continental spin that is All Black Italia.

MARTY ROSE, AGENT and distributor of ACL Footwear Company’s All Black, had big plans to celebrate the brand’s 15th anniversary in North America this year: the (Spring ’21) launch of All Black Italia, a line of heels, booties and tailored looks designed and sourced in Italy. But this being 2020, those plans went out the pandemic window, so the company pivoted to be in step with a changed world.

“The pandemic took the wind out of fashion sails and the focus shifted dramatically to comfort and sneakers,” Rose says. “So now our soft intro of All Black Italia focuses on fashionable, easy-to-wear flats, sandals and ‘Trekkers.’”

(Trekkers look like a low flatform sport sandal and while not something to traverse trails in, they are comfortable and versatile enough to get around town for a day.)

Rose says the difference between All Black and All Black Italia is most evident in the degree of finishing details—like extra stitches and more unique hardware—and a gentle design approach versus the more striking edge of All Black. “All Black Italia follows the trends of All Black but puts a European twist on the styles, leathers and colors,” he explains. For example, All Black’s edgy flatform base features a new red-and-white bottom paired with bold upper colors and materials, whereas the All Black Italia take is a lower profile, attention to detail in the straps and hardware, and rich pastels that show the softness of the leather. It’s not a huge leap, Rose assures. For starters, many of All Black’s designers are regularly influenced by Italian runway shows and the company has used Italian tanneries for years. “Only now, we’ll be closer to the epicenter of leather trends and can be more independent in design development,” he says.

Given recent trade concerns, Rose says ACL Footwear also wants to expand from its dominant sourcing base in China and Taiwan. In doing so, it has apparently found its doppelganger in Italy’s Lilmill Company. “Both owners were 36 footwearplusmagazine.com • october/november 2020

born in 1979, work in second generation-owned family businesses with their brothers, operate stores and understand the dynamics of manufacturing and distribution,” he says, adding that the owners approach the business conservatively but with a focus on introducing newness. “Innovation in style, design and comfort are constant,” Rose says. “The highest quality is a given, affordable pricing is critical (All Black Italia SRP ranges from $165-$199) and attention to detail married with handcrafted finishing are major points of difference that sets All Black and All Black Italia apart from our competitors.”

The response to the debut collection has been solid, Rose reports. “We started showing styles in early August via Zoom, and almost every customer has ordered thus far,” he says. Rose credits the success to several factors. One is a core group of retailers who trust in All Black’s track record that sees their customers eagerly await new styles from the brand each season. Another reason is the extensive offering, relative to many brands that cut way back on their Spring ’21 collections. “We designed the collection before the pandemic and even though we scaled it back, we have a larger offering than many competitors,” Rose confirms.

While Rose is bullish on the prospects of both lines going forward, he remains cautiously optimistic amid an ongoing pandemic. “We’re getting many Spring ’21 orders, but in many cases it’s fewer styles and pairs per style than prior years,” he says. “Retailers want newness, but at the same time they want to take fewer risks.” Still, there are encouraging signs. “Many of our boutiques have reordered fall styles and, depending on Covid-19 developments, we hope to see a greater reaction this spring,” Rose says. Looking out to a post-vaccine world, the exec projects significant growth, particularly for All Black Italia.

“We look forward to expanding collection for Fall ’21 and beyond, and for it to become a major portion of the All Black brand,” Rose says. “The goal is to have it amount to 30 percent of our overall business.” —Greg Dutter

Living Well

Spherica collection

Geox debuts Spring/Summer ’21 collection with style, comfort and sustainability leading the way.

LOOKING AND FEELING good are cornerstones of most any shoe purchase. But now another design aspect is increasingly important: product that does good for the environment. These three elements are at the heart of Geox’s Spring ’21 collections.

“All the styles feature our breathable and waterproof outsoles, but sustainability is a key value for us as well,” confirms CEO Mario Polegato, adding that safeguarding the planet can’t be ignored.

Eco-friendly examples include the Aerantis sneaker collection, featuring uppers made of Econyl, a nylon yarn made from recycled fishing nets and other waste retrieved from the oceans.

Meanwhile, the uppers in Nebula collection are crafted entirely from a jacquard material derived from recycled plastic—two-and-a-half bottles are enough to make one pair.

On the style front, Polegato says the overall theme looks to a contemporary consumer spanning styles for formal/business occasions to casual wear. “The women’s range includes romantic black or skin-

tone suede leather featuring ruffle details next to colorful sneakers and summery flat styles,” he says.

“The men’s collection contains cupsole shoes in white napa, running sneakers, comfortable sandals, classic loafers and Derby shoes in naturally-tanned leather with leather outsoles.”

New for Geox is the Spherica collection (at right) of sneakers. Polegato says the collection embraces Geox’s design tenets of innovation and well-being, and it’s also in step with a society’s love affair with sneakers. “The ultra-light sneaker is crafted from hi-tech fabric featuring our new Zero-Shock system, which softly cradles the foot with two differentdensity EVA layers extending over the entire surface of the breathable outsole,” he says.

A sign of the pandemic times, Geox chose a secret garden for the official unveiling of the line last month during the Micam show in Milan, Italy.

“Although we still need to be extremely cautious in all our actions, we thought it was important to hold an (in-person) event, but in a nice, open-air

location that could make our guests feel safe and comfortable while enjoying the opportunity of being together,” Polegato explains. “It was important to send a positive message not only for our brand, but in general for the industry.”

Speaking of positive vibes, Polegato reports Geox has fared relatively well in 2020 thanks, in large part, to improving its digital selling platforms. As for 2021, Polegato says to expect more of the same from Geox. “On the one hand, we’ll keep doing what’s an essential part of our DNA—working on innovations to find new solutions and technologies that meet the well-being needs of our increasingly selective customer base,” he says. “And on the other hand, we’ll continue to focus on improving a digitally-driven customer experience.” —G.D.

STYLE FLOWERCHILD

SPRING | SUMMER 2021

springfootwear.com | 800.962.0030

/Springfootwear

EDITOR’S PICKS Ugg Lacoste

Aetrex

D E S I G N E R C H AT

IT’S LONG BEEN a fashion conundrum: How do you buy killer heels without killing anything in the process? And despite a growing interest in sustainable fashion using animal-free products, cruelty-free couture is still something of a rarity. But Sylth Virago founders Danielle Goldman and Athanasia Svec, along with lead designer Kyle Blackmon, have set out to change that with their unique juxtaposition of bold aesthetics using cruelty-free materials.

Take the brand’s “Antigone” pump, for example. Goldman cites the “strong and structural, dagger-shaped heel” paired with a soft, vegan velvet material. “The shoe projects an urban strength and beauty, showing strength can be found in compassion,” she explains, adding that the brand’s overall aesthetic draws on the root of its name: Sylth stemming from the words synthetic and sylph, meaning graceful woman, and Virago, implying a warrior woman. (Each style is named after a Greek Goddess.) “The juxtaposition of the brand name is reflected in the overall design of each shoe,” Goldman says, noting the shoes are designed in New York and made in Italy.

Sustainable highlights include insoles made of an NPU green cellulose material that becomes 100 percent biodegradable within three to six months in a landfill. “We’ve hired a sustainable materials expert, Jen Keane, to help us achieve our sustainability goals while maintaining our high-end luxury aesthetic,” Goldman says.

For Spring ’21 that translates to a theme of dark romance. Think rich greens, deep purples and shades of black paired with bold heels.

“We fell in love with a super-soft, recyclable, vegan, organic cotton velvet out of Italy and PU leathers,” Goldman says. “Together with the colors, they make a beautiful statement.” Like the “Persephone” boot. “Kyle Blackmon and Brianna Fano of SwatchHub collaborated to create a stunning embellishment that adorns the top of the boot,” she says. “There’s no way you won’t be noticed.” —Greg Dutter Who is the Sylth Virago woman? She’s confident and strong, and chooses quality over quantity by understanding the mission of the brands she wears. She never sacrifices her strong style intuition and bold presence.

What’s been the toughest challenge to launching the label? It’s starting a company, in general. It’s hard bootstrapping ourselves together to create a luxury brand without all the bells and whistles often available to larger brands. Just getting the right partners in place has been a long, arduous process, although I’m currently very happy with the team we have assembled!

38 footwearplusmagazine.com • october/november 2020

Chaco Reef

P OOL C UE S

Men’s slides cross over from the pool to the gym to the home office.

How has the pandemic impacted your business? Our production in Italy was stopped for approximately six weeks and even after it reopened, it was slowed due to social distancing protocols and personnel changes. While this created a challenge, it gave us time to develop our social media strategy, our overall brand aesthetic and to network, especially since all brands, luxury or not, were in a similar situation and wanted to help each other out. This provided unique opportunities for us to get our brand in front of eyes that may not have been so willing to take a look had the pandemic not occurred. Not to mention, we created our shoes for high-profile affairs, which haven’t been happening. A lot of our original marketing plan had to be reworked.

We now have several flats in the works that will hopefully appeal to a larger market, particularly one that may have to work from home for a little while longer.

What are your distribution plans? We’d like to sell in physical and online spaces. Due to the impact of the pandemic, we’re also selling DTC. However, our Chief Revenue Officer, Athanasia Svec, is hard at work

developing partnerships with well-known department stores and high-end boutiques.

Where do you envision Sylth Virago in five years? We want to expand to different price points (SRP for the current collection is $518 to $1,118), and accessories and apparel.

If this pandemic continues, specifically pajamas and t-shirts with ties drawn on.

Who are some designers you admire? Stella McCartney, the true pioneer of the ethical and sustainable fashion movement. Sylth Virago is also the vision of three women from unique backgrounds, but we all generally agree that our look is the sometimes-rocky marriage of Alexander McQueen and Celine.

What is your favorite city? New York, the only city where you can visit all the most famous cities in the world—or at least a pretty good representations of them—for just the price of a subway fare. That’s a bargain!

What do you love most about designing shoes? Finding that perfect balance between letting the shoe speak for its owner and the owner’s personality shining through.

E D I TO R ’ S P I C K S P H OTO G R A P H Y BY N A N C Y C A M P B E L L

D A N I E L L E G O L D M A N : S Y LT H V I R A G O

continued from page 15 to survive. So hopefully everyone has gotten a little smarter, more analytical and can move forward efficiently and effectively.

Can the industry ever go back to remotely like the way it was?

I think lots of people want that to be the case. But, from a broader perspective, the world has changed greatly and likely will never go back completely. Hopefully, we can at least get back to it being ok to shake someone’s hand again, right?

Do you see Keen exhibiting at trade shows like before?

I don’t. I think everyone is realizing that they can survive without them. Any shows that we do attend, hopefully we’ll find better reasons for doing so and make sure it builds our business.

Despite all that 2020 has thrown at Keen and you personally, are you still optimistic about the business overall?

I go back to Admiral James Stockdale who said you can’t lose faith but you’ve still got to face the brutal reality and deal with it. I hope a vaccine comes quick, that it goes smoothly and science prevails. But I think we’re going to living like this at least another six to 12 months. I hope, at this time next year, we’re having a different conversation.

Will the presidential election have much impact on Keen’s business?

I think we’ll be fine, from a business standpoint, with either outcome. But we’re not taking sides, other than we just want people to vote. We’ve plastered posters of “vote love” all over our building. It’s from a collaboration we did this fall with the Jerry Garcia Foundation that features some of his artwork on select styles. It comes with a matching mask. We donated funds to his foundation, which is trying to get the public to vote.

People want to feel good about the brands they buy—that the company is not run by a bunch of corporate jerks. Keen has that “good guys” ethos.

Keen has an amazing brand story. But we’ve been way too humble and haven’t talked about it enough. I’m not saying we have to brag, but it would be nice for people to know how much good Keen has done over the years.

You’ve worked at lots of brands, what does Keen have that those might not?

It has soul. It has a strong ethos. I loved my time at Honeywell, but I always struggled with what the brand really stood for? It’s just nice to be at a place where you feel like everyone is there for the same reasons and enjoys and appreciates working there. You feel like you are winning as a group and making that place better. I think Timberland, back in the day, had that feeling.

Where do you envision Keen in three years?

Next year we’re projecting our Utility business to be up 30 percent. We’ve seen that business double since I’ve been here and we’re expecting to challenge Timberland Pro for the top spot in our three-year plan. In most of our accounts, if we are not No. 1, we’re No. 2. We’ve come from nowhere to become something very large in that business.

What exactly has enabled Keen to rise the ranks in that market?

When I was at Timberland Pro, it was at a similar size and stage of development that Keen Utility was when I joined the company in 2015. It just had so much opportunity to take it to the next level and it felt like I was running an old playbook. Before that, Keen had done a great job in finding a unique angle—the idea of a hiking boot design and fit with safety features. Soon after, Keen introduced the first-ever asymmetrical steel toe design. That was a big win, and word of mouth spread. More recently, we’ve focused on the indoor/ warehouse environment, and we’ve introduced some great athletic styles.

Mixed in with that is our American built collection, made in our factory in Portland. Not many people are opening factories in the U.S., so while it’s definitely an investment, the story resonates strongly with consumers and has really paid off. We make great product there. Overall, Keen Utility line has resonated. You have to win workers over one at a time. They treat boots

like tools, and they’re not usually looking to switch. If they do, they’re taking a risk. If it pays off, great, they found a better tool. But you better make a better tool. That’s why we’re committed to always trying to improve our products, like our recently introduced Bellows Flex technology across the toe box that compresses almost like an accordion. We studied a ton of people on job sites crouching where the leather would fail to give. Our design can handle that repetitive motion and the boots will last longer.

And the prospects for Keen’s outdoor and kids’ businesses?

If we can hit double-digit growth, we’d be pretty psyched. We should because, let’s face it, retail basically shut down for three months this spring. Still, we’re being relatively conservative. We’re going to enter a couple of other categories in a bigger way. Kids’ is next. We also have some light trail running product coming in. We’ve got some cool things that are incremental and are banking on that.

What do you love most about your job?

I go back to my early Proctor & Gamble days when I listened to a presentation by (then CEO) John Pepper, Jr., who bestowed some business wisdom. 1.

Segment your user base—who are you trying to go after. 2. Figure out what’s in their way of becoming a loyal fan. 3. Tear down those barriers and let marketing do everything it can do. Product, price, promotion. Repeat. I’ve always been more of a marketing guy, and that was simple, great advice. I see that same potential at Keen. We have such an opportunity to do the basics better. For example, we make great kids’ sandals—the choice for camp. If we do a great job elsewhere, then every mom in the world will know about us.

Same goes for our hiking and casual collections. How do we make sure Keen is a brand that consumers are thinking of and the choice they’ll make. We have such a great brand story; there’s a lot to fall in love with in this brand. If we focus on building loyal consumers and work that story into the equation, then we’ll really be on our way. •

PUBLISHER’S STATEMENT 1. Publication Title: Footwear Plus. 2. Publication No.: 0006-9750. 3. Filing Date 10/15/20.

4. Issue Frequency: 10 times per year. 5. No. of Issues Published Annually: 10. 6. Annual Subscription Price: $48.00 Complete Mailing Address of Known Office of Publication: 1 Maynard Drive, Suite 2104, Park Ridge, NJ 07656. 8.

Complete Mailing Address of the Headquarters or General Business Office of the Publisher: 1 Maynard Drive, Park Ridge, NJ 07656. Contact Person: Kathy Wenzler (201) 746-8604. 9. Full Names and Complete Mailing Addresses of Publisher, Editor, and Managing Editor: Publisher: Caroline Diaco, 1 Maynard Drive, Suite 2104, Park Ridge, NJ 07656; Editor: Greg Dutter, 1 Maynard Drive, Suite 2104, Park Ridge, NJ 07656; Managing Editor: none. 10. Owner (If owned by a corporation, its name and address must be stated and also immediately thereafter the names and addresses of stockholders owning or holding 1 percent or more of total amount of stock): Carroll V. Dowden, 13 Cameron Road, Saddle River, NJ 07458; Mark Dowden, 1 West Lake Road, Tuxedo Park, NY 10987; Lebhar Friedman, Inc., 241 Central Park West, New York, NY, 10024. Known Bondholders, Mortgages, and Other Security Holders Owning or Holding 1 Percent or More of Total Amount of Bonds, Mortgages, or Other Securities: None.

12. (For Nonprofit Organizations - Does Not Apply) 13. Publication Name: Footwear Plus. 14. Issue Date for Circulation Data Below: September 2020 15. Extent and Nature of Circulation. Average No. Copies Each Issue During Preceding 12 Months/Actual No. Copies of Single Issue Published Nearest to Filing Date: a. Total No. Copies : 9,497/8,975 b. Legitimate paid and/or requested distribution: (1) Paid/ Requested Outside-County Mail Subscriptions: 5,815/5,998 (2) Paid/Requested In-County Subscriptions: 0/0 (3) Sales through dealers and carriers, street vendors, and counter sales:.0/0 (4) Requested copies distributed by other USPS mail classes:.0/0 c. Total Paid and/or Requested Circulation: 5,815/5,998 d. Nonrequested distribution: (1). Outside county nonrequested copies: 2,812/2,833 (2) In County nonrequested copies: 0/0 (3) Nonrequested copies distributed through other USPS mail classes: 7/0 (4). Nonrequested copies distributed outside the mail: 746/4 e. Total nonrequested distribution: 3,558/2,837 f. Total Distribution: 9,373/8,835 g. Copies not distributed: 124/140 h. Total: 9,497/8,975 i: Percent Paid and/or Requested Circulation: 62.04%/63.36% 16. This Statement of Ownership will be printed in the Oct/Nov 2020 issue of this publication. 17. I certify that all information furnished on this form is true and complete.

I understand that anyone who furnishes false or misleading information on this form or who omits material or information requested on the form may be subject to criminal sanctions and/or civil sanctions. Caroline Diaco, Publisher, 9/30/2020

L A S T SH O T

Drink It In

Ugg

Ecco

Geox

Black & Tan C l a s s i c m e n’s s h a d e s t h a t n e v e r l o s e f l a v o r.

40 footwearplusmagazine.com • october/november 2020

P H OTO G R A P H Y BY N A N C Y C A M P B E L L

Clarks

Featur ing Aetr ex or thotic suppor t and me mor y foam cushioning for supe r ior comfor t