Footwear Plus | October/November 2018

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! PRA I RIE PRETTY A R AN G E of C L ASS I C AM E RI CAN A S ty le s R E TA IL P R OFILE T he Shoe Spa DYN A MI C DUO T he Rel ent le ss D r ive o f the B enzik r y T win s G REG TU N NE Y H ush Pup pi e s’ N e w A lp ha Dog T RE N D S POT T ING T he Wov en On es

OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2018


E C C O

W O M E N ’ S

OUR SOFTEST SOLE EVER

Our all-new P.U material PHORENE™ uses FLUIDFORM™ technology to deliver an even softer, lighter midsole, that can still perform in sub-zero temperatures. A textile stabiliser wraps the heel to provide protective support and a snug fit. Crafted from unique, premium ECCO leathers, made in ECCO’s state-of-the-art tanneries



O C T O B E R / N O V E M B E R 2018 F EATUR ES 10 Dynamic Duo David and Avi Benzikry, co-founders of Spring Footwear, continue to double down on their recipe for double-digit gains. By Greg Dutter 16 Retail Therapy Not your grandmother’s comfort store, The Shoe Spa is a soothing shopping experience. By Aleda Johnson 22 Dream Weavers Woven leather and fabric detailing adds a touch of texture in men’s casuals. By Aleda Johnson 24 Cool Ranch Western and boho-festival style elements hitch a ride with breezy prairie looks. By Aleda Johnson

Caroline Diaco President/Group Publisher Greg Dutter Editorial Director Nancy Campbell Trevett McCandliss Creative Directors EDITORIAL Aleda Johnson Assistant Editor Emily Beckman Assistant Editor Kathy Passero Editor at Large Kirstin Koba Contributing Editor Melodie Jeng Marcy Swingle Contributing Photographers ADVERTISING/ PRODUCTION Jennifer Craig Associate Publisher Laurie Guptil Production Manager Bruce Sprague Circulation Director Mike Hoff Digital Director Ana Novikova Office Administration 9THREADS CORPORATE Xen Zapis Founder 1926-2018

DE PARTM ENTS 4 Editor’s Note 6 This Just In 8 Scene & Heard 20 A Note to My Younger Self 34 Shoe Salon

PA G E

24

36 Upclose Comfort 38 What’s Selling 40 Last Word

This page: Naot buckle sandals, Mara Hoffman dress, pinafore by Grace Art, Parpala Jewelry bracelets, rings by Glamrocks Jewelry. On cover: mule boots by White Mountain, Love Binetti dress, socks by & Other Stories, Parpala Jewelry bracelet and necklaces.

Photography by Jamie Isaia; styling by Shea Daspin; hair and makeup: Christina Nicole Errante; model: Sophie Olszak/Major Model Mgmt. Shot on location at the Long Island Livestock Company, Yaphank, NY.

43 This Just In 44 Trend Spotting

Lee Zapis CEO Rich Bongorno Chief Financial Officer Debbie Grim Controller OFFICES ADVERTISING/EDITORIAL

214 W. 39th St., Suite 205 New York, NY 10018 Tel: (646) 278-1550 Fax: (646) 278-1553 editorialrequests@ 9Threads.com CIRCULATION

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FOOTWEAR PLUS ™ (ISSN#1054-898X) The fashion magazine of the footwear industry is published monthly (except for bimonthly April/May and October/November editions) by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, 214 W. 39th St., Suite 205., New York, NY, 10018. The publishers of this magazine do not accept responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage is paid in New York, NY, and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: $48.00 in the U.S. Rates oustide the U.S. are available upon request. Single copy price: $10.00. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to FOOTWEAR PLUS, P.O. Box 8548, Lowell, MA 01853-8548. Publisher not responsible for unsolicited articles or photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender. Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. No portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. ©2008 by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC. Printed in the United States.

2 footwearplusmagazine.com • october/november 2018



E D ITOR ’S NOT E

Tap, Tap

Meet the Retail Maestro IT STARTED LIKE any other weekend bike ride. Heading north on Manhattan’s Riverside Drive—the Hudson River on my left and the sun streaking between apartment buildings on my right—I made my way onto the George Washington Bridge’s bike path, the gateway to my Escape from New York. Suddenly, I heard a loud pop followed by a grinding noise with each pedal stroke. Houston, we have a problem. Fortunately, there’s a bike store, Strictly Bicycles, less than a mile from the bridge in New Jersey. It serves as a meeting place for legions of Lycra-clad bike riders as well as triage for on-the-spot repairs. I walked my wounded bike into the shop, and that’s when I came across the Retail Maestro. Over the course of an hour, as I waited for my repairs, I witnessed a virtuoso performance. Wearing cargo shorts, a black t-shirt and sneakers, he had the sinewy build of a person who doesn’t just sell bikes for a living. A bundle of energy, he continuously and seamlessly engaged customers and directed employees. There were repeated runs up and down the stairs to the repair area to check the status of bikes and to explain the diagnosis, the remedy and the cost to his customers. He spoke fluent cyclistese, reassuring his fellow roadies he was no charlatan. And he chatted warmly with the steady stream of riders popping in to use the bathrooms and hitting the cappuccino/snack bar. “Beautiful day for a ride.” “Now that’s a good-looking kit (shorts and jersey combo).” “Hey, nice to see you back in the saddle.” Nearly everyone was engaged. He darted onto the sales floor to assist those browsing the colorful racing bikes, snazzy jerseys, shoes, gloves, helmets and tires on display. He fielded requests from delivery men as well as a local bike club member who asked to use the parking lot as a rest stop for an upcoming ride. (“Sure, no problem.”) He bantered with a handful of regulars, one of whom he let slide with a promise to pay him next time. He kept eyes on his mechanics, sales associates and barista (his wife), making sure they were on top of their games and checking to see whether they needed anything. He even found time for a PSA (to me) about the skin rash he developed after weeding the overgrowth near the store’s patio, set with tables, chairs and sun umbrellas. (“Beware of those harmless-looking flowers.”) He also mentioned the sidewalk sale going on, with clearance items priced 50 percent off. The Retail Maestro wasn’t just on the floor that morning. He was on! I’ve covered retail for more than a quarter century and I’ve never seen

a performance like this. He was in total control of his store—inside and out. He was the conductor of a symphony of services, making sure all his customers’ needs were met. I feared he might miss a note when a man dragged in a shipping box and asked a sales associate if the bike inside could be reassembled that day. The store was swamped and the associate said they couldn’t get to it that fast. Suddenly the maestro stepped in and told him not to worry; they’d get it done. It was as if he sensed disappointment somewhere in his store and swooped over to eliminate it. First impressions in retail are critical, and the maestro nailed his opportunity. His performance was a refreshing reminder that traditional retail, done right, can still be standing ovation-worthy. While much has been written about what’s wrong with retail—tired formats, poor service, hit-or-miss inventories, dull decor—it’s all correctable. Fortunately, our industry has its share of Strictly Bicycle shops to rally around. The Shoe Spa in Palm Beach Gardens, FL, and this issue’s retail profile (p. 16), is one such example. Co-owner Beth Weingarten’s passion for product and genuine love of servicing her loyal clientele is inspiring. She’s a Retail Maestro in her own right. The staff ’s efforts go way beyond fitting customers properly in great-looking shoes—ones she has scoured the market to find. Weingarten says there’s “a lot of hugging in our store,” and you’ll discover why. Then there’s Staci Fauci, co-owner of Runnin’ Wild Kids Shoes in Brooklyn, NY, (What’s Selling, p. 38), who shows equal enthusiasm for serving her customers. While several competitors have closed, Fauci’s store is looking to expand to meet growing demand. Last but not least, the new Birkenstock flagship in Soho (Scene & Heard, p. 8) is an experiential retail showcase. David Kahan, CEO of Birkenstock Americas, believes consumers are craving “more retail excitement and entertainment,” and if you build it, they will come. In the meantime, the Retail Apocalypse continues to weed out bad players, producing a much tighter orchestra and—I would argue—a better-sounding one. At the same time, myriad new-and-improved services aimed at convenience and exciting add-ons—like Macy’s expanding its virtual reality furniture shopping experience nationwide or Foot Locker installing old-fashioned barber shop chairs and offering free haircuts at its new Hong Kong flagship—must be music to the ears of consumers tired of their old store playlists. The recent gains, aided by a humming economy, are proof that solid efforts are paying off. Our collective retail orchestra is making some beautiful music again: the sound of ringing cash registers!

Greg Dutter

Editorial Director

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THIS JUST IN

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SCENE & HEARD

Birkenstock Opens Soho Flagship WHILE THERE ARE other Birkenstock-named stores across the country, the one that opened this month in Manhattan’s Soho neighborhood marks the first that is company owned and operated. It’s also 100 percent Birkenstock merchandise, featuring the most comprehensive assortment of men’s, women’s and kids’ footwear and accessories as well as limited-edition items and collaborations available in the U.S. “This is the first store we own and manage, and gives us direct interaction with our consumers, many who have been loyal brand fans for years,” says David Kahan, CEO of Birkenstock Americas, adding that no in-store experience has been spared. “All staff is trained in true sit-and-fit retail to insure we maintain the highest standards of service and offer the orthopedic benefits of wearing our products.” The Birkenstock store joins what’s become a shoe shopping mecca: NikeTown is on the corner, a Stuart Weitzman flagship is next door and on the other side is a John Varvatos boutique while across the street are Frye, Adidas Originals and Sam Edelman outposts. Also new to the neighborhood and sure to be a draw is the Amazon 4-Star concept, which carries its most popular or best-rated merchandise on its website. “Soho is one of, if not the most dynamic, retail environments in the world,” Kahan says. “Where else can you find the most premier luxury brands, the largest athletic brands, an Apple store…All within a few blocks? The energy on the street is incredible, and there is no better place to showcase the power of the Birkenstock brand.” Once shoppers enter the landmark building (120 Spring St.), they are ensconced in the world of Birkenstock. Bright and cheery, the interior incorporates essential brand elements like cork and leather into the décor. There’s even a six-foot tall cement Birkenstock footbed as wall art near the entrance, while a metal lattice in the design of its iconic outsole pattern leads to the second floor lounge area where special projects and collaborations are displayed. Current collections for sale are Rick Owens and 10 Corso Como. To mark the opening, Birkenstock also introduced a limited-edition version of its Arizona sandal (100 pairs) featuring the work of New York-based artist Amit Greenberg, a.k.a. This is Amit. The uppers feature a print pattern of blue puppet-like characters. It’s part of a broader campaign that will include a billboard and social media depicting the characters wearing Birkenstocks as they interact all over the city. A peek inside the full-on Birkenstock store experience. The flagship, the campaign, the collabs—it’s all reflective of Birkenstock taking the steps to being a lifestyle and fashion brand leader, according to Kahan. It comes on the heels of exponential growth worldwide over the past five years. “Our consumer demand continues to escalate and drive traffic,” he says. “With our hyper focus on brand equity and our continued focus on bringing innovative, fresh product to the market, there’s no better time to open this store.” And contrary to popular opinion, Kahan believes consumers want to shop in a physical setting like this. “Consumers want more retail excitement,” he says. “They want more retail entertainment. They want more brand-connections, and this is exactly what Birkenstock will represent.” As for additional Birkenstock flagships, the short answer is yes, but it’ll be a selective process. “We don’t want to be in the ‘retail’ business per se; we have many great retail partners who represent the brand very well,” Kahan says. “But it’s incumbent upon us to create meaningful points of intersection with consumers who are on the leading edge of the market.” That means in addition to a direct-to-consumer site, Birkenstock is seeking locations in “A+++ areas” that have a unique vibe and energy. “It’s not just traffic, but the right traffic,” he says, noting the next location, slated to open this spring, will be on Abbott Kinney Blvd. in Venice Beach, CA. “We hope the stores allow for greater, more direct consumer engagement and learnings that, along with our digital business, allows us to learn quickly, get feedback and take actions to benefit the broader market,” Kahan says.

8 footwearplusmagazine.com • october/november 2018

Cat Supports Good Work CAT FOOTWEAR, A division of Wolverine Worldwide and sponsor of the annual Instagram Builder’s Challenge (IGBC), expanded the profile of the popular annual DIY desk building contest by adding a community outreach angle. The brand partnered with Designs for Dignity, a nonprofit organization that transforms charity environments through pro bono design services and in-kind furniture donations, to make over the office of a local charity in need. This month the partners chose the Rebuilding Exchange in Chicago, a nonprofit celebrating its 10th Anniversary of diverting building materials from landfills by repurposing and selling used goods. Participants signed up for one of three workshops held throughout the day and led by the three IGBC co-founders. They helped build a series of desks for the nonprofit, using reclaimed wood to chop, mill, sand, finish and assemble. The family-friendly event also featured “Drop-in Workshops” that instructed how to build office accessories like pencil holders (also donated to the charity), the Charity: Water “Water Walk” in support of clean drinking water in developing nations, a “live-carving” installation by YouTuber Chop With Chris, food trucks and Cat Footwear games and giveaways. “We believe in building a better future in our community and this ‘Build for Better” event will be the first of many opportunities for our consumers to join us in doing just that,” says Janice Tennant, chief marketing officer for Cat Footwear.

A Cat volunteer building the perfect desk.


Timberland Serv-a-palooza a Big Hit

Mephisto Pop-up Celebrates Originals

IF IT’S FALL, it must be time for Timberland’s annual employee volunteer bonanza, Serva-palooza. The annual effort held during September and October saw more than 1,200 company employees volunteer at 50 projects in 19 countries. Highlights, according to Atlanta MclIwraith, senior manager, community engagement and communications for Timberland, included refurbishing a Manchester, NH, elementary school by painting new playground games and a mural, building picnic tables and renovating the outdoor classroom. In addition, Jim Pisani, global brand president for Timberland, Neal Newman, president of Two Ten Foundation Timberland donated hundreds of boots and orchestrator of the annual industry-wide and backpacks to New Hampshire kids. Footwear Cares volunteer drive, and Tom Vernarsky, buyer for Shoe Carnival, were on hand to help outfit 460 students in new boots, backpacks and socks. Other notable Serv-a-palooza projects this year included 106 employees in Hong Kong who made moon cakes and engaged in different activities with students at a school for abused and neglected boys. In Milan, the team partnered with Legambriente to improve green spaces in and near the city. At Timberland’s global headquarters in Stratham, NH, 300 employees served at five different projects in nearby Manchester. Notably, volunteers at the Manchester VA Medical Center spread over 40 yards of mulch, created an outdoor patio meeting space, built accessible garden beds for disabled veterans and helped prep for the facility’s annual volunteer dinner. They also shared lunch and lawn games with residents. Other Timberland volunteers spent the day at a local Girls at Work outpost, an organization that empowers girls through building projects using power tools. Volunteers compiled building kits for projects as well as painted a mural and siding on homes and refreshed the playground and basketball court at the Elmwood Gardens housing development across the street. Last but surely not least, volunteers at the Rooting for Families Community Garden built a storage shed, refurbished a nature trail, created species identification stakes and built risers for bee hives for a garden that provides a safe a collaborative space for new American families to grow food and flowers popular in their home countries. MclIwraith reports that the overall Serv-a-palooza goal to help those that need help the most was once again accomplished. A bonus, she says, was this year’s new crop of volunteer project directors—employees who go above and beyond to initiate and manage a project. “(Serv-a-palooza) is not only great for supporting our community efforts, but it’s also a great way for employees at all levels of the organization to gain valuable project management and leadership skills,” she says. “Everyone wins!” An added reward was seeing and hearing firsthand the gratitude for their volunteering efforts, according to MclIwraith. Like the note of thanks received from the local elementary school principal, Lori Upham: “Our students were thrilled beyond words to get to pick their own boots, socks, books and backpacks. Most teachers were moved to tears throughout the day as they watched and listened to students talk about their new swag. I want to thank your entire team for everything they did today. It doesn’t matter what direction you look in, there is evidence of Timberland everywhere at Gossler Park School. Today is a day that will always be remembered. You made hundreds of dreams come true.”

CONSIDERED BY MANY to be the first “walking” shoe, Mephisto celebrated the half-century milestone of its Originals with a four-day pop-up store adjacent to Sportie L.A. in Los Angeles this month. The event, #Mephistowalks, poked fun at the age-old presumption that Angelinos don’t walk by proving just the opposite: the opening night party drew influencers and industry VIPs who followed red painted footsteps leading into the pop-up tent. Guests included Christopher Reid from Kid ‘n Play, George Pajon of the Black Eyed Peas—who performed with singer/ songwriter Andrew Cole (Colourblind)—and rap artist Hugh Augustine, as well as actors Michael Evans Behling and Lyriq Bent of the Saw series. Inside the gift suite, guests hopped on a green screen treadmill where they produced mini “walking films” sporting Mephisto Originals and then posted them on social media. Muralist Gustavo Zermeno was also on hand creating a Mephisto Originals wall piece. James Rowley, CEO of Mephisto USA, says the event displayed a fresh approach from the brand. “It was really something unexpected from Mephisto and gave us the chance to showcase our brand to a new/ younger demographic that really doesn’t have a predetermined opinion of Mephisto,” he says. “I think they were legitimately impressed with our new campaign, event activities and, most importantly, the Originals product line.” Rowley reports customer traffic over the four days was steady. “It gave us a chance to talk with hundreds of new Christopher Reid of Kid ’n Play consumers in a setting that really resonated with them,” he says. “Being on Melrose Avenue, you can imagine we exposed Mephisto Originals to an entirely new customer.” That demographic, Rowley believes, is increasingly looking for a crossover style like the Originals. “We feel the timing is right for a shoe that sits right between the sneaker and the brown shoe market,” he says. “It offers the comfort of athletic styles, but has a ‘grown-up’ edge that makes it much more versatile as people slowly move away from wearing sneakers to work.” In addition, he believes higher-end consumers are “craving quality product in a sea of cheap and over-distributed footwear.” Rowley adds, “These consumers want the value our brand offers—all Mephisto Originals are made in our own factories in France and Portugal. These shoes have stood the test of time.”


BY

DYNAMIC DUO D a v i d a n d A v i B e n z i k r y, co-founders of Spring Fo o t w e a r, c o n t i n u e t o double down on their recipe for success: Always aim high and work as hard as possible.

SUCCEEDING IN THE fashion business requires speed, stamina, agility, passion, ingenuity, talent, smarts and a lot of hard work. And that’s just to get a business off the launch pad. Succeeding season after season, year after year to become a sustainable, thriving operation requires all those skills on steroids, especially in times of industry upheaval and reinvention. While many companies have taken a beating during the so-called Retail Apocalypse and downsized or, worse, disappeared, Spring Footwear continues to post double-digit annual gains with its stable of comfort fashion brands: Spring Step, Patrizia, L’Artiste, Flexus and Azura. Even more noteworthy, co-founders David and Avi Benzikry credit much of the company’s recent growth to the independent channel, despite the tier’s significant consolidation and pared-down buys from surviving retailers. So what gives? How does Spring Footwear do it? The answers start at the top, with the identical Benzikry twins. One would be hard-pressed to find two individuals who work as tirelessly as they do. This isn’t just a job for them. The shoe business is their life. They’ve been all-in since day one of launching Spring Footwear in 1991. In fact, the brothers have been all-in on the shoe business since they started helping out after school, at age 6, in their

10 footwearplusmagazine.com • october/november 2018

GREG

DU TT E R


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father’s Israeli factory, lacing and putting pairs into boxes. It wasn’t long before they began formulating their own plans for a footwear company, which they launched upon emigrating to America at age 17. Having already logged about 10 years working in nearly all facets of shoemaking, the brothers believed they had the experience to succeed. And while it wasn’t easy, they overcame tremendous hardships and gained traction on their New York-based startup—only to shut it down to fulfil their obligation to serve in the Israeli Army. The Benzikrys returned to the States three years later— a little older, a lot wiser and as determined as ever to launch another shoe company—Spring Footwear Corporation, this time in Pompano Beach, FL. The company that started with just the Benzikrys has since mushroomed to 150 employees globally and now sells close to 3 million pairs annually. For the Benzikrys, it’s the American Dream realized. “We have an aggressive growth plan, and we always set higher expectations so we always have something to work towards,” David says, noting that sales are up by double digits this year. Avi sees the company’s tireless effort to bring a large assortment of fresh products to market every season as key to its success. “That’s our core strength, combined with our attention to detail and always striving for operational excellence,” he says. “Our teams work around the clock and are committed to constantly finding solutions and delivering.” The success has come despite some self-imposed obstacles—namely the Benzikrys’ move back to Israel about six years ago to be closer to their family. “Reconnecting with our parents, siblings and extended family has been amazing but also brought along new challenges,” David says. “We’re required to travel at a much higher frequency and have had to learn how to manage the business from the other side of the world.” For example, being seven hours ahead has meant working even longer hours to match the U.S. schedule. The Benzikrys can’t afford to be off the clock when the main headquarters is just starting their workday. As always, they’ve found ways to make it work. “With today’s technology, the office is with you no matter where you are,” David says. Avi believes the move’s positives outweigh the negatives. “It’s given us the opportunity to enjoy both worlds, maintain our business and be close to our families,” he says. “We find it to be a good balance, especially as our parents get older and we can be there for them.” Lest anyone think the Benzikrys are absentee executives, the duo makes monthly visits to the U.S. headquarters and is on hand at all the major shows. They’ve been hands-on since day one—a work ethic that’s more important than ever with business changing rapidly and unpredictably. “Our business is going well, but it’s crazy at the same time,” Avi says. He attributes much of the craziness to online shopping. It forces them to work harder—for everything—and to adapt on a dime. “In the past, things could have been sold at retail more quietly,” Avi says. “But with the visibility online today, we need to be more selective and have strategies in place of who we sell. We have to work much harder to build different product for different channels.” The toughest challenge currently facing their business is protecting brand integrity and distribution, they say. “We’re very selective to who and what we sell,” Avi explains. “We continue to make the necessary moves and changes, and accounts that do not comply are simply closed.” Logistics, incorporating new technologies, policing rogue accounts, finding and managing talent, overcoming unexpected challenges…all are essential to a company’s survival. Then there are the shoes. Fail to deliver on that front, and no amount of skill will make up for the shortfall. Fortunately, the Benzikrys excel when it comes to product. Season after season, their 12 footwearplusmagazine.com • october/november 2018

shoes stand out for attention to detail, colors, materials, embellishments and breadth of selection. “We are very passionate about product innovation,” David says. “We simply love shoes and are always on the prowl for the next great idea.” Their design team travels extensively, searching the world for new inspirations and emerging trends. “Our global team is strong and helps us execute and bring our ideas to life,” David says. “Along the way, we’ve been able to transform from making traditional comfort into innovative and unique fashion comfort.” Avi credits the company’s design transformation in part to paying close attention to customers, understanding what they want now and leading them to what they’ll likely want next. “Our product always What is the best delivers on our promise business advice of comfort with every you’ve ever step,” Avi says. “But What are you reading? received? David: comfort doesn’t have David: It’s All About Don’t be afraid to to be an old-fashioned, Who You Hire by take risks and leave boring idea. It can be Morton Mandel. Avi: No your comfort zone. spicy, too!” Room for Small Dreams Avi: Our father always Spring Footwear’s by Shimon Peres. impressed upon us foundation as a fashion to find solutions to comfort house is solid, What is inspiring you problems on our and the Benzikrys believe right now? David and own. the sky’s the limit for Avi: Seeing young growth. Reaching new and motivated talent What talent would heights could involve chasing their dreams. you most like to new brands joining have? Avi: I wish I the portfolio as well as Who is your most had a better voice, the company’s contincoveted dinner guest? so I guess singing. ued push into internaDavid and Avi: (Nike David: I wish I could tional markets. “We’re founder) Phil Knight. dance. always searching for additional opportuniWhat sound do God hands the ties in the marketplace you love? David: My controls over to you to enhance our portfolio daughter playing the for a day. What’s the while still being true to piano. Avi: The sound first thing you do? who we are,” Avi says. of the ocean. David and Avi: Cure In essence, little the sick and feed the has changed for the hungry! Benzikrys since day one of Spring Footwear. They are as driven as ever, work harder than ever and still love everything about the shoe business. In many ways, it feels like they are just getting started. “Fortunately, our company is doing well and we’re seeing nice increases in growth that allow us to continue to invest in talent acquisition, technology, product development and marketing,” David says. “We’re investing to build the best team possible. The limit is only in our minds.”

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While you’ve both weathered your share of challenges in this business over the years, has the so-called Retail Apocalypse been more difficult than, say, the Financial Crisis? David: No question, we’re doing better than we did through the Financial Crisis. As a company, we are stronger, our brands are more mature and we feel that we’ve gained respect and sound marketshare to be able to continue to grow despite the so-called Retail Apocalypse.

Is there a light at the end of the retail tunnel, or do we have a long way to go? David: There will always be challenges. The fashion industry is very complex and everything is moving at a fast pace. We must always work hard to keep up with the changes—from product to technology to compliance to service expectations to improved communications and to engagement with our customers.

What has your company been doing to weather this epic realignment in retail? David: Focusing on product innovation and creativity is always what has set us apart, so we are constantly evolving to bring unique and fresh products to the market. At the same time, we’ve built strong relationships with our partners. We strive to be highly strategic around our distribution practices and constantly take advantage of new technologies.

How do you see shoe retailing evolving going forward? How important might the brick-and-mortar aspect be? Avi: We believe that there will always be a place for the specialty stores that can offer personal service and unique selections. Retail isn’t dead, it’s just changing. Our brick-and-mortar channel will continue to be an important part of our business. We have a very broad demographic and keep in mind the fact that our customer is not only interested in the transaction, but also in the whole shopping experience—looking for a unique product, socializing, etc. Retailers will need to continue to evolve and stay up to date with what the customer expects and continuously look to improve the experience they provide. At the same time, we know the internet isn’t going anywhere, and we must service customers who prefer to shop that way.

What do you attribute your recent success within the independent tier to most? Avi: In addition to great product, our team has been able to grow in this channel thanks in large part to our open-stock and in-stock capabilities. We have the necessary infrastructure to service these stores. Actually, we’re a perfect fit for how many of them like to buy and thus it makes for an easier sale.

Like on Amazon, for example. How do you view them as a customer? David: Amazon is a very big business that we just can’t ignore. We build


special collections for them that will not conflict with our other channels. We are fortunate that we are product rich and have that capability. What else are you doing to try and make sure all your channels coexist (at least somewhat) peacefully? Avi: We have multiple brands and each one serves different needs and channels. Spring Step is our original European comfort brand, offering traditional comfort constructions and styles. L’Artiste shoes are all uniquely designed, incorporating hand-painted leathers and are functional works of art. Azura represents more modern fashion. Flexus is supportive, extreme comfort all made with a direct-attach process. Patrizia is our vegan-friendly line featuring new, innovative materials covering many of our core competencies and infused with fast fashion. Spring Step Professional offers comfort with oil- and skid-resistant technology to those in the medical and hospitality workforce. Spring Step Men is contemporary fashion. In addition to this, we have an established MAP policy that we monitor closely and make adjustments whenever necessary to protect our retailers. Which brands have the most potential? David: That’s a tough question. It’s like answering to who’s your favorite child. We have seen tremendous growth in all of them, and we believe each has great and different opportunities going forward. How important is your direct-to-consumer channel going forward? David: Our main focus is to build fresh and unique products relevant to

our target customers, and specialty retailers help us reach those audiences by developing a personalized connection with them. The fact is selling footwear is a very lengthy process that requires a lot of time and the attention of many individuals. It is kind of like matchmaking, finding and introducing new products that fit for the right customers. And we depend on our retailers to present our brand and showcase what we do best. Having said that, our direct-to-consumer segment is a very small percentage of our overall business and primarily exists to showcase our brands in their entireties. It’s our place to engage and build relationships and form additional venues for communication with all our customers. But it’s not our primary focus at the moment. Our business model is focused on selling products to retailers. While that business model remains largely the same, how would you say the company has changed most over the past five years? David: I’d say we’ve strengthened our relationships with consumers. We’ve established a loyal base and growing following. Today, the consumer is an integral part of our company development and has dramatic effects on our actions. As we’ve grown and understand their wants and needs better, our product offerings have been refined. There’s more clarification among our brands, which has been a major factor in our revenues doubling. Where do you envision Spring Footwear in five years? Avi: Continuing to grow and becoming one of the leaders in fashion innovation and comfort technology. We will continue to leverage our growth through our strong relationship capabilities and our loyal customer >42

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R e ta il T h e rapy N o t y o u r g r a n d m o t h e r ’s c o m f o r t s t o r e , T h e S h o e S p a i n Pa l m B e a c h G a r d e n s , F L , i s a s o o t h i n g shopping escape. BY ALEDA JOHNSON

OT ONLY DID Beth Weingarten enter the retail game later in life than most—in her mid 50s—she had no intentions of ever doing so when she settled in Palm Beach Gardens, FL, in the mid ’90s. She and her husband, John, had moved to the Sunshine state to retire, but a few years into their life of leisure the seed to open a shoe store was planted—first by their son, Brent, a sales rep for Naot, and soon after by another industry rep and friend of his who lamented that there were no good shoes stores in the area. The entrepreneur gene in Weingarten was awakened, plus retailing ran in her veins. Her mother had started a jewelry store out of their family home when Weingarten was two years old, and it’s still thriving today under the stewardship of her nephew. Growing up in a store (literally) rubbed off on Weingarten as she, along with her husband and son Michael, have created a luxury comfort shoe shopping experience where top-notch service, a cozy living room setting and unique selection blend together seamlessly. Now in its thirteenth year and sales north of $1 million annually and growing, the 2,400-square-foot women’s boutique and online component (shoespausa.com) features, as its home page states, a selection spanning “classic to modern, sophisticated to funky and a little bit of whimsy” and drawing an equally eclectic clientele. What customers won’t find, Weingarten assures, are shoes that may look great but aren’t practical, or ones that may be super comfortable but are just plain ugly. The Shoe Spa sits at that elusive crossroads of style and comfort. Weingarten’s basic buying philosophy is that every shoe must feel as good as it looks, and it’s on her to find them for her customers. It’s a process that involves a blend of learned-on-the-floor acumen and gut instinct.

16 footwearplusmagazine.com • october/november 2018

The Shoe Spa sits at the elusive crossroads of style and comfort.

Customers, she says, offer the best feedback. To ignore it is to buy blind. In addition, her eyes are always peeled, looking for design influences that could be translated to shoes—like scouting the furniture market for up-and-coming colors and traveling the globe for inspiration. But practicality remains at the forefront of all her buys. “When I look at high-end magazines, I rarely see anything I can buy,” she says, mindful of her target demographic that ranges in


SOUNDING OFF Beth We in ga r te n, co- o wn e r o f T h e Sh o e Sp a, t e lls i t l i ke it is, e ve n if i t m ay ruff l e a fe w fe at h e rs . age from thirtysomethings to over 100. “It’s all a fantasy and none of it translates well to streetwear.” Her customers, in contrast, live in the real world. They must be able to wear the shoes often, meaning they must fit properly. But they should also want to wear them. The key is finding styles that feel as good as they look. “You’ve got your 8-hour shoes, 2-hour shoes and the infamous 35-minute shoes,” Weingarten says. “But most of the shoes you count on to be comfortable are collecting dust in the back of your closet—a monument to designers and buyers that just don’t get it.” What they are missing is that comfort doesn’t have to be ugly. Even addressing a variety of foot issues like neuropathy, bunions and hammer toes, Weingarten says shoes can still be pretty. In fact, it’s part of The Shoe Spa’s mission statement: “Providing comfort both to feet and to the soul with the best edited collection of shoes that are both beautiful and comfortable.”

TIME TO GO : The trend that needs to disappear: white contrast soles. “Don’t show me another white bottom shoe. Reinterpret trends in a more creative way.” G E T O F F M Y L AW N : To (so-called) vendor partners that open flagships nearby: “You expect me to buy your shoes still? I won’t. You can’t have the whole cake. Don’t be greedy.” Same goes for direct-to-consumer sites that undercut on price. “I’ll stop buying from them, too. There needs to be a certain ethics in life that carries over into business.” WE’RE THE EXPERTS: Fitting customers into the right pair sometimes requires a little tough love. Weingarten has no qualms about being honest, if necessary. Like the time a customer refused to try on the handful of styles bought to her by the salesperson, claiming they’d never fit. Weingarten stepped in and said basically, be fitted or be gone. “She looked at me like I was nuts, but once she took our advice she ended up buying three pairs.”

the original designer. I just tell them I’ve got that covered and move on.” SHOW ME (ALL) THE SHOES: Another Weingarten pet peeve: Sales reps who send abbreviated line sheets of what they think will sell best. Weingarten will have none of that. “It drives me nuts when someone who’s never set foot in my store suggests what their best styles are for me. I don’t think other people should tell you what to buy.” BUZZWORTHY : What is the most effective way to reach consumers? “Word of mouth is the best form of advertising for us. We also do a ton of social media. We used to do radio, and we still do some print locally.”

BUYER’S GUIDE Like any retailer worth his or her salt, Weingarten is all about the product—and offering plenty (UNSOLICITED) GOOD ADVICE : of it. The selection currently spans about 40 Weingarten’s message to fellow indepenbrands, including comfort stalwarts like Naot, dents: “Spend time with your customers Gabor and Taos as well as L’Amour Des Pieds, on the floor, enjoy what you do and do it Fly London and Salpy. Top sellers of late include with passion. If you’re happy and honest, Naot, BeautiFeel, Paul Mayer, Thierry Rabotin money follows.” and Salpy, with Arche quickly climbing the ranks. In the last year, Weingarten has added niche players like U-Dot out of Japan and Ilse TAG, SHE’S IT : Weingarten’s license Jacobsen, whose comfortable, affordable styles B E O R I G I N A L : One of Weingarten’s plate is “ShuGuru.” Recently, a woman are some of the most copied in the market, she biggest frustrations? The increasing lack of about her age glanced at the plate and says. “They’re at a lower price point, comfortoriginality coming from designers. “Often asked if she was, in fact, a master? “I said, able and adorable,” she says, noting the Tulip, I’ll hear about a hot brand, only to discover ‘Oh yeah, I own a shoe store.’ She laughed a lightweight, perforated slip-on, has been on it’s a knockoff of a shoe I already carry from and bowed to me, so that’s my story.” fire. Weingarten adds that while many of the labels carried by The Shoe Spa aren’t commonly known, that’s okay because it’s their job to educate shoppers why they are worth wearing. Actually, Weingarten has reined in her buys. She’s pared it down from in three colors. “You could have used it as a weapon because it weighed a the “insane” 950 SKUs the store carried a few years back. “I literally had ton,” she says. “We had red size 11s that fit one of my sons, who paraded everything,” she says, having combed through every trade magazine for around the store in them one day. We were cracking up.” the latest styles and designers. Weingarten has even created a “What Was Experience has taught Weingarten that a little less merchandise is still She Thinking?” photo collage on the store’s bathroom wall featuring her good and plenty. “I’ve learned to control myself, and that I don’t have to worst choices of the season to remind herself—and anyone else who pays buy every color,” she says. “It’s a case now of how much can I fit in the a visit to the restroom—that not every shoe is a home run. The first style store without making it look cluttered. It’s still a huge selection, but in a to make the wall of shame? A French designer’s $450 loafers she stocked very curated way.” At the same time, Weingarten views the merchandise

2018 october/november • footwearplusmagazine.com 17


mix as a work in progress—as it should be. How else do you discover what works if you aren’t at least willing to try something new, she says. And you can’t be afraid to fail, which Weingarten isn’t. “When I first started, people asked, ‘Well, aren’t you afraid?’” she says. “I said, ‘Of what?’ Life is to be lived and have fun—and be comfortable walking in your shoes.” That’s not all that Weingarten heard at the onset. Her friends were not enthused by the idea at all. As in, “Ew, you’re opening a ‘comfort’ shoe store?’” But a typical sit-and-fit comfort store has never been the Weingartens’ intention. “The Shoe Spa is not your grandmother’s comfort shoe store,” she says, proudly. HERE TO HELP About the only aspects that are traditional about The Shoe Spa is its inviting atmosphere and knowledgeable service. Customers are treated like family, an ability that Weingarten says is helped by being on the floor nearly every day. Regulars are on a first-name basis and newcomers are welcomed just as warmly. Take the 103 year old who stops in around her birthday every year with her granddaughter to buy a new pair of shoes. Or the three women from the nearby retirement community who swing by often for outings where they insist on squeezing together onto the store’s plush loveseat for try-ons. Another regular lives in France and comes to the store straight from the airport to stock up. Then there was the time

cousins reconnected by happenstance in the store. The stories are endless, and Weingarten believes the inviting atmosphere helps foster the connections and comradery. “There’s a lot of hugging in this store,” she says. “It’s like our living Family Ties: room and it’s an extension of Michael, Beth and our family. We want everyone John Weingarten to feel comfortable, and that in their home away goes far beyond finding the from home. right pair of shoes. It includes the atmosphere, the culture of our staff and the way we do business.” Weingarten tells the story of a customer who, at first impression, seemed would be very difficult. But as she worked with her, Weingarten discovered she wasn’t uptight, rather upset. The more they talked and the more Weingarten listened, the more she opened up. She then shared something very sad, and Weingarten asked if she could give her a hug? “She said that’s what’s wrong. I don’t have anyone to hug,” Weingarten recalls. “She then reached out and started to cry.” That’s what Weingarten believes makes The Shoe Spa special. “This isn’t just an opportunity to sell shoes,” she says. “It’s an opportunity to connect with people, and that’s my philosophy on life as well as running this store. This is a rare and wonderful opportunity to help people other than just with their feet.”

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Along those lines, Weingarten instructs her staff, despite the fact that they work on commission, that it’s better a customer leave without making a purchase if the alternative is buying a pair that doesn’t fit properly. “You can’t be driven just by money. You have to make the sale the right way—you have to sell the person what they need,” she says. Similarly, if a customer buys a pair at full price and needs an adjustment, the store will send it to a shoe repair shop and have the alteration done at no charge. “We really try to make shopping here a special experience,” she says. Weingarten believes The Shoe Spa’s service-oriented approach provides a much-needed point of differentiation, particularly compared to online dealers. And while Amazon and their ilk aren’t going anywhere, she isn’t overly worried about the things she can’t control. She prefers to focus instead on the one she can. “The biggest component missing from buying online is that no one is really listening,” she says. “With comfort, that’s key and that’s what we do best.” To her point, Weingarten reports a steady stream of customers who are frustrated at having to repeatedly return ill-fitting purchases made online. Free shipping aside, it’s just not convenient or efficient, especially for people who have foot issues. Weingarten says it’s best to be fitted in person by a trained expert. “Bunions and arthritis are issues we deal with on a daily basis,” she says. “You can’t see or address those needs online. Every foot is different.” The Shoe Spa staff knows the fit tendencies of its entire stock and takes pride in measuring and recommending the right pair of shoes. Ayelet Levy, president of Naot USA, who has worked closely with the Weingartens for years, says The Shoe Spa’s service is a refreshing blast from the past. “It reminds you of old time Main Street,” she says. “They

even call customers when new products come in that are specific to their size. They’re always willing to go the extra mile.” THE ROAD AHEAD Where does Weingarten envision The Shoe Spa in five years? For starters, in the capable hands of her son. She’s comforted knowing he has the social media marketing skills and online retail savvy to grow the business further. (Currently, online represents 10 percent of overall sales.) And while she has no immediate plans to exit stage right, Weingarten could see herself having transitioned into a semi-retirement role by then. Just don’t expect additional stores any time soon. “I don’t want 22 stores,” Weingarten says. “I don’t even want two. I want one that we do really well.” In the meantime, she plans to continue to grow as a buyer to do right by her customers. “I want to keep up with all the new, great designers coming into the industry,” she says, adding that, at age 66, the thrill of the chase helps keep her young. “I’m just grateful to be a part of this industry. Who could have guessed that this idea of ours would have ever become successful? I was in my 50s when we started. I’m still a novice, but I love what I’m doing and have the best time with my customers.” Weingarten also loves working alongside her family and “incredible” staff each day. They are the heart and soul of The Shoe Spa and source of its longevity. “I like to think we don’t really have any competition, because The Shoe Spa is a truly unique experience,” Weingarten says. “We genuinely listen and care what’s going on in our customers’ lives. We’re ethical and honest, plus customers like what I buy. Hopefully, they all have a great experience and will want to come back.” •

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ALL THE RIGHT MOVES G e o ff G r e e n , v i c e p r e s i d e n t , t a l e n t a c q u i s i t i o n f o r Fo o t L o c k e r, l o o k s b a c k o n t h e r o a d s t a k e n — a n d s o m e n o t — t h a t ’s l e d h i m o n a p a t h to career and personal success. DEAR GEOFF, Do you remember your 10th grade teacher who said you wouldn’t make it due to your personality and outlook on life? Well, he was wrong—big time. Believe it or not, you end up in corporate America and, over the course of your career, you never lose your identity. You continue being you, which in corporate speak is called maintaining your personal brand. You also marry that fine woman you met at the bottom of Jeff Hill. She’s one of the smartest moves in a life filled with moves—many great, some tough and one or two regrettable. Allow me to walk you through a few highlights as well as offer a few tips that could make your journey safer. First, the shocker: You’re not a famous DJ like you dreamed. Right after you graduate Ohio University, that career comes to a halt as another lifelong one takes off. Instead of spinning records for a living, you enter the footwear business at U.S. Shoe Corporation. Your first job is an Assistant Manager for one of the company’s Banister Shoes outlets in Columbus, OH. After a couple of years, you move to Washington, D.C. to become Assistant Manager of the chain’s second largest store. A couple of years later, you make the move to Philadelphia to open and manage a new, larger Banister Shoes concept. While you enjoy living in the City of Brotherly Love, always keep your guard up, especially with the fellas you play ball with regularly. There’s going to be a night before the store’s grand opening where you’ll be out celebrating with your boss. Do not try and find New Jersey! Just get your butt Geoff Green, circa home. Trust me. with a life of good Philadelphia is where kid No. 1 is born. Shortly after, you move back to D.C. to be Banister Shoes’ Assistant District Manager. It’s also where kid No. 2 enters the picture. Your family is growing, and they are counting on you every day. You must always be responsible. And while you do plan on staying young forever, you don’t want to have to work forever. Get involved with the company’s 401K plan early. Yes, it stinks that if you borrow from it you must pay it back or be penalized. Get over it. It’s a great investment over the long term. Speaking of which, when you hear about a company called Macintosh, buy as much stock as possible and sit on it until you retire. Another good tip: Get involved in politics and policies early. Vote

20 footwearplusmagazine.com • october/november 2018

every chance you get, no matter where you live. Support politicians with the same values as yours. You’ll even help make history. You may not think it’s possible now, but you’ll never believe who becomes president of the United States later in your life. Your next career move is to Florida, as District Manager for Banister Shoes. It’s not an easy learning curve at first. A former peer trains you and you frustrate the hell out of her, which she occasionally reminds you of to this day. Eventually, though, you get the hang of it and flourish in the position. After 11 months, you are promoted to Regional Manager, based in Chicago. A few years later, Nine West acquires U.S. Shoe Corp. You then decide to make some major life changes: You move back to Ohio (where kid No. 3 is born) to take a position at The Limited, switching from working in the field to helping recruit talent. Your love of people is an asset in this new role. But it’s not long before you’re pulled back to the footwear business, moving the family (again) to St. Louis to work in Brown Shoes’ recruiting department. You love the job and the company. You stay for 10 years—longer than anywhere else you’ve lived. Your family might not like this move at first, but it will be the best thing for you and them, which now includes kid No. 4. After decades working for others, you decide to start your own recruiting agency. It’s exciting and fun, but corporate America comes calling again with an offer you can’t refuse. This time it speaks to your hoopsplaying roots: it’s Foot Locker. And that’s the the early ’80s, story so far. It’s been a wonderful, winding fortune ahead. journey filled with many adventures and lots of love. You’re a very blessed man. Now before I go, here’s a few more tips: 1. Don’t go to that White Sox game. You don’t even like baseball. 2. Don’t make that u-turn while heading to Williamsburg. You were going in the right direction. 3. Don’t buy that condo in Miami at the height of the market. If you hear “interest-only loan” say, “No thank you.” 4. Enjoy life. While the moving from city to city and job to job is tough, you get to meet the world, up close and personal. Sunsets in Santorini, the Blue Grotto, the Northern Lights, the Eiffel Tower, Rio’s Carnival, just to cite a few memorable stops. There’s so much more to see and do. Keep going, kid! P.S. Cleveland does finally win a championship. Just be patient.



D R EAM WEAVE RS

Clockwise from top left: Ugg sneaker, leather platform by Geox, slip-on by Ecco, Trask loafer. Opposite: Johnston & Murphy wingtip, driving moc by Tommy Bahama, Rieker slip-on, loafer by Florsheim.

WOV E N L E AT H E R A N D FA B R I C D E TA I L I N G A D D S A TO U C H O F T E X T U R E . BY A L E DA J O H N S O N

22 footwearplusmagazine.com • october/november 2018


2018 october/november • footwearplusmagazine.com 23

P H OTO G R A P H Y BY T R E V E T T M CC A N D L I S S



Ecco sandals, Love Binetti dress, wide brim boater by East Village Hats. 25



Miron Crosby starry boot, Mola Walker blue sheer dress, Artists in Residence sweater and shirt, bonnet by Americana, necklaces by Parpala Jewelry. Opposite: Tasseled sandals by Aetrex, dress by & Other Stories, Glamrocks Jewelry rings. 27


Top to bottom: Musse & Cloud buckled boot, perforated bootie by L’Artiste, ghillie boot by Spring Step, stacked heel boot by BC, Gabor suede boot. Opposite: Twisted X boots, Silk Laundry tank, Mr. Larkin shearling jacket, pants by Faircloth Supply, Falke socks, Parpala Jewelry necklaces.

28


29


Ugg espadrille sandals, Keepsake The Label lace top, Zara metallic skirt, black hair tie by Silk Laundry. 30


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Clockwise from top: Butter fringe mule, Taos sandal, woven wedge by Restricted, mule by Bearpaw. Opposite: Bill Blass snakeskin print shoeties, Dress Up striped top, Mola Walker plaid skirt, rings by Glamrocks Jewelry, bracelets by Parpala Jewelry. Hair and makeup: Christina Nicole Errante; model: Sophie Olszak/Major Model Mgmt. Shot on location at the Long Island Livestock Company, Yaphank, NY. 33


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WHEN FASHION AND lifestyle blogger Emily Schuman of Cupcakes and Cashmere decided to expand her successful clothing line with a shoe collection, she doubled down on her apparel license partner, ZigiNY, and Danielle Basso and Mike Shirey, vice president of sales and president, respectively, were elated to expand upon the blogging empire Schuman launched in 2008. Debuting for Spring ’19, the line embodies Schuman’s feminine, clean and elevated California aesthetic, featuring nearly 20 styles that span day to night in heels, mules, slides and sandals. “The line has a sophisticated L.A. vibe and is more laid back than New York style,” Basso says. “It’s trendy but understandable.” Schuman collaborated closely with designer Nalini Arora and the ZigiNY team, capturing the season’s biggest trends like espadrilles, slides and pastel colors while maintaining her personal style. “Our design team researches what’s happening in trends and what makes sense with Emily’s style,” Basso says. “We made sure the styles resonate with her and what she stands for.” Shuman’s reach has expanded to more than 1 million monthly visitors to her blog and now includes three licensed product lines and two best-selling books. Her following consists largely of an aspirational crowd (primarily ages 18 to 34) that understands the latest fashions but doesn’t want to shell out for the designer price tag. “The beauty of the collection is it’s really understandable but nothing is priced too high,” Shirey says, noting the collection ranges from $100 to $160 retail. “The line has a sophisticated but trendy aesthetic that was missing in the contemporary price point world,” he adds. “It fits all age ranges, even if her target audience skews younger. We’ve gotten a great reaction because there was a void there we’re filling.” —Aleda Johnson What are some key silhouettes, colors and materials of the Spring ’19 collection? Basso: We’re showing a lot of woven leathers, some fun prints, a little bit of denim and high platforms are important. We’ve also focused on low- to mid-heels. Mules are the biggest take away. No sneakers? Basso: Most of the market has gone casual and athletic, but we believe there’s still a dress customer out there. That girl exists, and Emily is not walking away from her. Emily, 34 footwearplusmagazine.com • october/november 2018

Cupcakes and Cashmere

FS/NY

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for example, wears dress heels, flat sandals and, if she’s wearing loafers, they’ve got a more feminine feel to it than a Nike or Adidas sneaker. She’s not a sneakerhead, for sure. How’s the line been received by buyers? Shirey: We’ve received a tremendous reaction so far. Where we’ve placed is awesome, which includes Shopbop, Nordstrom, Zappos and Dillard’s as well as specialty boutiques across the country. The distribution is in line with what they’re doing in apparel. Emily is at the forefront of influencer-based brands, and we’re very excited about what that means for business. How are influencer-based brands different? Basso: They have a huge impact on how we can market the brand because Emily already has a wide reach and is the face of her brand. Shirey: We chose Emily because amid the flood of influencer brands

in the market, we consider her the best of that world. She knows the category and the best way to approach potential customers. Where do you see Cupcakes & Cashmere footwear in five years? Basso: Year after year, Emily grows her following and has spread to other platforms. As Emily’s brand grows, footwear has a chance to become successful in its own right. Like kids’ styles for her daughter, perhaps? Basso: She’s always looking to expand if it’s right for the brand. But she’s very selective and thoughtful about how she approaches the business. Whatever it is, it would be a meticulously planned expansion. What is the best part about designing shoes? Shirey: For any designer, it’s all about seeing the shoes come to life. Also, it’s the creativity involved.

E D I TO R ’ S P I C K S P H OTO G R A P H Y BY T R E V E T T M CC A N D L I S S

CUPCAKES AND CASHMERE


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U P C L O S E C O M F O RT

Green Machine OrthoLite introduces two eco-friendly insoles.

Ecco Breaks the Mold Limited-edition Vitrus collection redefines the men’s formal dress shoe. ECCO, A COMPANY known for re-engineering and reinventing how shoes are made, has reimagined the men’s formal dress shoe—namely to be more versatile, comfortable and stylish. The effort is led by the Vitrus International Agenda, a limited-edition collection of just 500 pairs in seven different variations: one representing each day of the week and the business capitals New York, Tokyo, Shanghai, London, Moscow, Amsterdam and Copenhagen. The cities also represented where select stores introduced the collection this fall. In New York, it was Nordstrom’s new Midtown men’s mecca. Felix Zahn, product director for Ecco Americas, says the idea behind the limitededition launch was to create awareness of the broader Vitrus men’s dress collections and present the brand in a more premium light. “Ecco is a key player in this category,” he says, noting that most other brands put all their innovations in sneakers. “We wanted to innovate a true formal product with a sneaker-like feel.” Led by Ecco’s Fluidform direct comfort technology that uses unique liquid materials to follow the anatomical shape of the lasts and form a flexible platform that cushions the foot and delivers rebound time after time, the shoes also feature a breakthrough shank design that creates a cupped, cushioned heel with excellent stability and fit. Additional features include a suspended welt construction that uses a full leather wrap, which improves comfort and durability; a strobel sock formation that offers higher flexibility and strength; and a moisture-wicking cork layer on the forefoot that improves breathability. Looking at the history of classic silhouettes like the Derby, Oxford and wingtip, Ecco Design Director Niki Tæstensen believed the best way the brand could reinvent the men’s dress shoe, without disrupting the traditional handcrafted style, was through comfort upgrades. “Our innovation had to come from the fit,” he states, crediting Fluidform as the breakthrough. It enables the injection of soft PU straight through the shank. “This allowed us to offer the same comfort you would get in a casual sneaker while maintaining the formal look on the outside,” he says. The injection process also reduces the weight and delivers out-of-the-box comfort; i.e. no break-in period. As for the styling of the limited-edition collection (SRP: $300 and $350 for the boot), it pays homage to old-school shoemakers. For example, the premium fullgrain leather uppers are individually hand polished and buffed to bring out the natural grain, warmth and luster. “The Vitrus man understands he shouldn’t have to compromise on his style and comfort just to wear a more traditional, handcrafted style,” Tæstensen states. “He knows he can have the best of both worlds in one Ecco Vitrus shoe.” —Greg Dutter 36 footwearplusmagazine.com • october/november 2018

CONTINUING ITS DECADES-long effort to improve sustainable production practices, OrthoLite is debuting two new insoles featuring recycled materials. One is made of 100-percent recycled waste foam and trimmings and the other, the OrthoLite Hybrid, consists of a patent pending blend of 5 percent recycled rubber and 15 percent production waste. Dan Legor, director of marketing, notes the Hybrid material can be added to any insole a brand desires, which is expected to give it a more than 80-percent adoption rate in the market. While Legor notes OrthoLite has been including recycled rubber in its products from day one, the demand to be greener in all facets of production is only increasing. “Brands want to tell this eco-friendly story even more, and we’re in the perfect position to help,” he says. OrthoLite can help because it controls every aspect of its production process, enabling it to work with brand partners individually on the eco-content formulation that best suits them. With Millennial and Generation Z consumers, for example, the more eco-friendly the product, the better. “Having just 1 percent of a shoe be of recycled material is not enough,” Legor says. “Brands are looking to increase the eco ratings of their products, and Ortholite insoles are a great way for them to do that while maintaining performance standards. We are seeing it in everything, from high-performance running shoes to dress to kids products.” As with all OrthoLite insoles, these newest versions meet the same performance and durability standards for density, tear strength and firmness. And while the processes to produce these insoles cost more, OrthoLite believes it’s a worthy investment. “You have to invest in innovation if you want to continue to grow and service customers at the level they expect,” Legor says, noting the investment its making in a new, eco-friendly factory in Vietnam that is expected to open next year. “We want to find solutions that help us be more environmentally responsible across everything we do,” he says. Like water conservation and solar power in the new factory. “Our brand partners are excited, and they’re asking what’s next?” Legor adds. “We’ve got a lot in the works, be it working toward becoming carbon neutral and making biodegradable products. We look forward to coming up with solutions for everybody.” —Aleda Johnson



W H AT’ S SE L LI N G

B

Children’s Specialty

RUNNIN’ WILD KIDS SHOES Brooklyn, NY

ROOKLYN NATIVE STACEY Fauci always wanted to own her own business, be it a coffee shop, cafe or boutique. When Fauci’s husband, Anthony, lost his job at the same time the neighborhood kids’ shoe store closed, she knew it was time to act. “It wasn’t easy to drive to the Staten Island Mall for a proper fit and price,” Fauci, a former retail manager, says. In the summer of 2012, the Faucis opened Runnin’ Wild Kids Shoes in the borough’s family-friendly Cobble Hill section, stocking everything from crib shoes to tween sizes. The 900-square-foot store is stocked with top brands like Nike, Puma and Stride Rite, as well as first walkers from See Kai Run and Old Soles. In addition to a strong selection, Fauci credits her trained staff ’s sitand-fit approach to attracting customers. “It’s not the easiest job in the world, and you have to have a lot of patience,” Fauci says of properly fitting children. “Kids cry because they think you’re the doctor, but I want everyone to be happy with what’s on their feet.” Her staff, for example, knows which brands run narrow or wide and can fit feet properly, which would be, at best, a guess shopping online. Fauci believes Runnin’ Wild provides a much-needed service to fellow neighborhood families, but it’s also a labor of love. “Running the store can be chaotic, but I thrive on making kids happy when they walk out with their new favorite shoes,” she says. —Aleda Johnson How’s business? Great. Unfortunately, three children’s shoe stores have closed in our area over the last few months. But it’s been great for us. I’ve had to add more staff on the weekends and restock more than I used to.

What’s the smartest business decision you’ve made in the past year? Revamping our website, Kidshoesdirect.com. Our previous site didn’t do well. We’ve changed platforms and it’s doing better. We still only do a small percentage of sales online, but it helps move inventory that doesn’t move in the store, so it’s necessary. It also helps with people who may be looking and then come into our store. I think it will continue to grow, and if it does maybe we can expand into the basement space. What’s the most effective way to reach customers? I don’t do much more than post to Instagram and Facebook, plus our website. Our business is mostly word of mouth because we’re a walking neighborhood. People pop in when they need shoes. But it’s not just my neighborhood. We get people from all over Brooklyn and even Queens. Now if it’s 10 degrees for three days in December or 110 in summer, we’re slow. Most of our customers are walking, not driving a car to the mall. That affects business. In addition to great product that sells, what else are you looking for from vendors? I’m looking for good price points and the ability to restock quickly. The products also have to be good quality since a lot of kids wear out their shoes before they go up to the next size. What are your goals for the rest of this year? Honestly, I’d just like to keep this pace up. While I feel bad for my former competitors, I’m happy we’re doing something right and customers are coming to us. My husband and I are both hands-on owners. We don’t want people to walk out unhappy. If nothing fits properly, we’d rather not put them in a shoe just to make a sale.

Customers keep coming back for the strong selection and traditional sit-and-fit service.

What are your top-selling brands? Nike is No. 1 because kids love sneakers. See Kai Run and Plae also do really well. We’ve just added Old Soles in the last year, and I’ve been very happy. Their styles are great, and they fit really well. I also look for brands that are hard to find online—European brands like Naturino and Ricosta.

How about accessories? We don’t sell a lot of accessories, but we do carry socks, shoelaces, hats and gloves. Backpacks from JanSport and MadPax are top sellers on our website. We also do well with raincoats. Hatley and 08 Lifestyle are our top brands. Any unique preferences of Cobble Hill kids and parents? As far as style, hi-tops are very big right now. I think the neighborhood likes not overly trendy styles but something kids can be comfortable wearing since this is a walking neighborhood. I can carry trendy items, but they have to be practical. Some sales reps might say this is their No. 1 style, but if it’s not easy to walk in then I know it won’t sell in my store. 38 footwearplusmagazine.com • october/november 2018

What is a challenge facing your business? Stocking the right inventory is challenging. I don’t know if I’ll have enough of this or that. The store is small, and I don’t know if I’ll blow out of a size, style or brand. It’s hard to judge. Retail is an interesting business, and it’s not for the weak. Where do you see Runnin’ Wild in five years? Something realistic, like expand into the basement space. Expanding to a bigger location may not be the best move. Higher rent doesn’t guarantee more people walking through the door. That’s why I hope the website takes off. What do you love most about being a kids’ shoes retailer? Actually, I think I have love-hate relationship with the store. I love working in retail. I never liked the 9-5, sitting behind a desk thing. But it can be chaotic at times, yet I thrive on that. I love making customers happy. What are you most proud of as it pertains to your business? That we’re still in business! We have loyal clientele. I’ve been fitting kids since they first started walking and now they’re 6 years old!


SCENE & HEARD

OTBT Sneaker Raises Funds for ALS Research OTBT, A DIVISION of Consolidated Shoe Company, has released its latest philanthropy sneaker to raise funds for ALS (Lou Gehrig’s disease) research and treatment. The women’s travel-inspired brand collaborated with Lori Andre, owner of Lori’s Shoes in Chicago, on the casual sneaker ($118.95 SRP) that will see 100 percent of proceeds donated to the Les Turner ALS Foundation. “ALS is not an incurable disease, but an underfunded disease,” Andre says. “We are donating the net profits to research to help find a cure.” In addition to being a worthy cause, the partnership spoke personally to Andre, whose husband was diagnosed two years ago with ALS, and Consolidated Shoe CEO Billy Carrington, whose brother died from the disease. “ALS is something that has impacted individuals in some way or another across the globe and it’s important to us to help researchers get one step closer to finding a cure,” he says. Andre worked hand-in-hand with Carrington and the OTBT design team to develop the sneaker. The clean, white lines are accented by a red sole and laces—the color associated with ALS awareness. Andre suggested the laces be elastic so that they don’t have to be tied and therefore more easily worn by those with ALS. Currently available at Lori’s Shoes and OTBTshoes.com, the ALS Sneaker is also available for wholesale purchases. Carrington welcomes any and all accounts to carry the item as it only increases the potential to raise funds. “We love how this sneaker not only raises awareness with its bright design, but symbolizes people joining hands—and feet—to help save lives,” he says.

Designed for walking www.wolky.com This boot with its trendy heel will get you through the autumn looking your very best. Made of beautiful polished leather with a lightweight sole for extra comfort.

Removable footbed

Highest quality leathers are fashionable, durable, and soft to the touch

Outsoles are lightweight, flexible, and durable


L A S T WO R D

Woof, Woof !

Greg Tunney: Unleashed The president of Hush Puppies on the 60-year-old b r a n d ’ s p l a n s t o b e c o m e a t o p d o g i n t h e U. S . c a s u a l m a r k e t . By Greg Dutter

GREG TUNNEY IS an old Shoe Dog, even though he may not look it. His career resume of 30-plus years spans retail and wholesale in both the private and public sectors. Stops include May Company, Brown Shoe, Daniel Green (later known as Phoenix Footwear Group), RG Barry and, as of March of this year, Wolverine Worldwide, as head of its Hush Puppies division. Tunney, who has made his share of laps around the dog track, has managed companies and their kennels of brands through painful reorganizations (he has the scars to prove it) as well as trained them to become show dogs. At the helm of Hush Puppies, a pure breed American casual brand, Tunney’s main task is to translate its tremendous popularity worldwide to this market. It’s easier said than done, as it’s been tried (repeatedly) before. Despite great bloodlines—like classic, casual and comfortable plus name recognition out the wazoo—Hush Puppies desperately needs a brand whisperer to reach its full potential. Tunney is now the one in its (big, floppy) ear. Now that you’ve gotten your paws wet, what’s your take on the brand? Hush Puppies is an amazing global brand that accounts for a little over $1 billion in total retail sales. Outside of the athletic brands, there are very few American brands that exist worldwide in footwear. We’re fortunate in that Hush Puppies is one of them. We’re the No. 1 footwear brand in over a dozen countries. We’re the No. 1 footwear, apparel and accessory brand in greater Indonesia (including Malaysia and

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Singapore), which encompasses more than 320 million people. We’re seen as the creator of the “classic American casual lifestyle brand.” Yet in the U.S. market… I think the brand has experienced so much success over the decades globally that it didn’t live or die on its success here. The U.S. only represents 5 percent of the total global GDP. To address that, we’re focusing on three key strategies. 1. Brand Relevance. We have extremely high brand awareness, however we have an opportunity to build our brand relevance, meaning the intent to purchase. 2. Product Design. We’re focusing on our three points of difference: classic style, comfort and color. We have an opportunity to leverage these points in all our products. 3. Distribution. We sell only to full-price department stores, like Nordstrom and Von Maur, and we have a strong internet business, notably a great relationship with Zappos. Hush Puppies is like the Kleenex of shoes. How are you leveraging that recognition? That tremendous brand awareness presents opportunity. Whenever I ask people if they know Hush Puppies, the first thing that usually happens is a big smile comes forth. Everyone has warm feelings about the brand. We live in such a doom-and-gloom world with constant bad and fake news, whereas Hush Puppies reflects the opposite: life (can be) good. However, for many reasons the brand hasn’t been relevant to consumers here in recent years. This is why I came to Hush Puppies—to unlock that value.


Care to cite some specifics as to why Hush Puppies world, and I would estimate it’s about 10 years hasn’t been relevant of late in the U.S.? In addiahead of retailing in America. That retail experition to being distracted by our extremely large ence is special. It reminds me the late ’80s when global business, we didn’t keep the marketing and people here waited in line to get into malls to see product as fresh and trend-right here. The brand what was new and what unique experiences they was also effected by the lack of continuity in leadercould engage in. It’s magical over there right now. ship. The one thing all great brands and companies We’ll be holding our February sales meeting for have in common is good continuity in leadership our Europe and Middle East territories in Dubai and their respective team. That’s what brought this year for the first time. me to Wolverine Worldwide and Hush Puppies: the opportunity to lay down the foundation of a As a wise old Shoe Dog, is there anything about strong leadership team for the long-term. In the this business that surprises you anymore? I’m past 180 days, we’ve added some wonderful talent surprised at how unwilling people are to change! to the team and are building a strong core for the The single most important factor in today’s market future. Last but not least, Hush Puppies was not is the willingness to fail fast in order to learn fast, The Hush Puppies product focus: as focused as it needed to be on introducing the which requires change! The toughest part is helping classic style, comfort and color. brand to new consumers and a new generation. It retailers understand that retail is evolving faster became too comfortable, no pun intended, creating than ever. I’ve seen more change throughout all product and marketing that had worked in the past. channels of distribution in the past 18 months than I believe the new brand growth model that we are implementing as a team I’ve seen in the past 30 years. It’s an exciting time in which an extremely will address this issue moving forward. fragmented marketplace must go through a significant amount of consolidation, just as the finance, tech and other sectors have. It’ll be a difficult time You’re no stranger to managing brands. Any Golden Rules or taboos? in the short-run, however after the consolidation takes place the survivors I learned long ago, the team with the best talent usually wins sooner rather will have a great environment to thrive in. than later! I’ve been focusing on building our team for the long haul. I’ve spent a significant amount of time assessing every level of management down to every team member. Within the first 180 days, we replaced or identified replacements for every one of my direct reports. Some were promoted, others moved to other divisions and others moved on. Before the end of the year, an entire new team will be in place. And we needed one. We have an extremely complicated and global business model. It’ll be critical to have the skillsets and the leadership ability at all levels of the business to succeed in the future. What are the advantages of working under the Wolverine Worldwide umbrella with regards to this new game plan? The big concern at retail right now is a reliable and consistent supply chain. But I don’t have to worry about that at Hush Puppies because Wolverine has a great supply chain with some of the best factories in the world. Mike Jeppesen, our head of global sourcing, is one of the best in the industry, without question. What’s the toughest part of getting a classic brand re-energized? I’m a big believer that there are no tired brands, only tired brand managers! I love the challenge and the opportunity of dusting off a tired or neglected brand and bringing it back to life. I believe with Hush Puppies there’s pent up demand that is just waiting to be unlocked. Consumers are a lot more forgiving and accepting of a beloved brand and are willing to make it part of their lives again. Unfortunately, in our industry there are many gatekeepers who are less accepting of a brand’s awareness and are more interested in their own agendas versus satisfying the needs and wants of consumers. That’s not all that’s wrong with retail these days. I’m fortunate because as president of Hush Puppies I’m exposed to more than 100 different countries. I get the opportunity to see best practices and, believe it or not, they don’t all emanate from America. It’s amazing what’s going on in the Middle East. The Dubai Mall, for example, is the No. 1 mall in the


continued from page 15 base that we’ve worked so hard to maintain. Peering into your crystal ball, what might the footwear industry look like in 10 years? Will there even be shoe stores as we now know them? Avi: For sure, shoe stores and boutiques are not going anywhere. Of course, there will also be new emerging concepts that will become popular. Along those lines, I think our retailers will become more like decorators and consultants, working directly with customers to deliver an increasingly personalized experience, utilizing new technologies. Online will also continue to grow. But as a U.S. company, we are obligated to comply with many requirements and regulations to sell shoes. Meanwhile, the global economy is creating a disadvantage for U.S. companies, allowing outsiders to conduct business here without any of these regulations and tax obligations. This is a big issue that needs to be addressed by our government, and I believe this will mark another change that will take place in the marketplace. Seeing how you both are based in Israel now, any incentive to move the company headquarters to get around these regulations possibly? Avi: Our company is proudly U.S. based and follows all U.S. laws and requirements. And since we are both proud American citizens, we have to pay taxes no matter where we live. Speaking of U.S. regulations, is President Trump’s tariff policies impacting your business? Are you diversifying your sourcing portfolio as a result? David: Of course, the tariff policies with China will affect footwear pricing and supply chain. Fortunately, we are highly diversified. We still have more than 50 percent of our products sourced in Europe, and we deal with many different countries worldwide. We’ve built strong global partnerships and are able to shift production fairly quickly. Avi: I give (President Trump) a lot of credit for all the changes he’s trying

to make. He’s working hard to protect American interests. It’s not an easy job or position, but I wish him the best. Looking back to when you first launched this company, did you ever envision in your wildest dreams this level of growth? David: Our vision remains the same as when we first launched: We wake up every day and do the best we can for that day to improve and deliver comfortable and beautiful shoes that look and feel great. We’re very fortunate and blessed to be where we are. America has provided us with great opportunities. Having worked in this business since childhood, you’ve weathered the up and downs, survived and thrived, and probably seen and heard it all. Is there anything that still surprises you about this business? Avi: You’d be surprised—every day things are changing in the shoe business. We live in a very dynamic space, and we still learn something new every day. It’s what keeps us going and what keeps us relevant. What are you most proud of as it pertains to the company you both have built? Avi: We are proud of our loyal team as well as our loyal customers that have remained with us from the very beginning. What do you love most about your jobs? David and Avi: We are extremely fortunate to be able to be born into a business that we love. We are true shoe lovers. We love the never-ending challenges, endless possibilities and complexity that keeps us busy, as well as the constant evolution within the marketplace—all of which creates a very purposeful approach to moving our company forward. We are competitive by nature, and always put up the best fight to win! •

PUBLISHER’S STATEMENT 1. Publication Title: Footwear Plus. 2. Publication No.: 0006-9750. 3. Filing Date 9/21/18. 4. Issue Frequency: 10 times per year. 5. No. of Issues Published Annually: 10. 6. Annual Subscription Price: $48. 7. Complete Mailing Address of Known Office of Publication: Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, 214 West 39th Street-Ste 205, New York, NY 10018. 8. Complete Mailing Address of the Headquarters or General Business Office of the Publisher: Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, 26202 Detroit Rd. Ste. 300, Westlake, OH 44145. Contact Person: Debbie Grim, (440) 871-1300 ext. 103. 9. Full Names and Complete Mailing Addresses of Publisher, Editor, and Managing Editor: Publisher: Caroline Diaco, 214 West 39th Street-Ste 205, New York, NY 10018; Editor: Greg Dutter, 214 West 39th Street-Ste 205, New York, NY 10018; Managing Editor: none. 10. Owner (If owned by a corporation, its name and address must be stated and also immediately thereafter the names and addresses of stockholders owning or holding 1 percent or more of total amount of stock): Symphony Publishing NY, LLC; Leon Zapis, 26202 Detroit Rd. Ste. 300, Westlake, OH 44145; Maria Wymer, 26202 Detroit Rd. Ste. 300, Westlake, OH 44145; Donna Thomas, 26202 Detroit Rd. Ste. 300, Westlake, OH 44145; Renee Seybert, 26202 Detroit Rd. Ste. 300, Westlake, OH 44145, Richard Bongorno, 26202 Detroit Rd. Ste 300, Westlake OH 44145 11. Known Bondholders, Mortgages, and Other Security Holders Owning or Holding 1 Percent or More of Total Amount of Bonds, Mortgages, or Other Securities: None. 12. (For Nonprofit Organizations - Does Not Apply) 13. Publication Name: Footwear Plus. 14. Issue Date for Circulation Data Below: September 2018 15. Extent and Nature of Circulation. Average No. Copies Each Issue During Preceding 12 Months/Actual No. Copies of Single Issue Published Nearest to Filing Date: a. Total No. Copies : 10,409/8,234 b. Legitimate paid and/or requested distribution: (1) Paid/ Requested Outside-County Mail Subscriptions: 5,174/4,175 (2) Paid/Requested In-County Subscriptions: 0/0 (3) Sales through dealers and carriers, street vendors, and counter sales:.0/0 (4) Requested copies distributed by other USPS mail classes:.0/0 c. Total Paid and/or Requested Circulation: 5,174/4,175 d. Nonrequested distribution: (1). Outside county nonrequested copies: 3,752/3,491 (2) In County nonrequested copies: 0/0 (3) Nonrequested copies distributed through other USPS mail classes: 6/0 (4). Nonrequested copies distributed outside the mail: 1,305/400 e. Total nonrequested distribution: 5,063/3,891 f. Total Distribution: 10,237/8,066 g. Copies not distributed: 172/168 h. Total: 10,409/8,234 i: Percent Paid and/or Requested Circulation: 50.5%/51.8% 16. This Statement of Ownership will be printed in the Oct/Nov 2018 issue of this publication. 17. I certify that all information furnished on this form is true and complete. I understand that anyone who furnishes false or misleading information on this form or who omits material or information requested on the form may be subject to criminal sanctions and/or civil sanctions. Debra A. Grim, Controller, 9/21/2018


THIS JUST IN

In Living Color Hypefest, a two-day streetwear cultural extravaganza in Brooklyn, NY, saw attendees bring their A kicks game! Photography by Melodie Jeng

2018 october/november • footwearplusmagazine.com 43


T R E N D S P OT T I N G

SEEING RED The passionate hue turns everyday silhouettes into show stoppers. Clockwise from top: Vionic, Minnetonka, Bill Blass, Secret Celebrity, L’Amour Des Pieds.

44 footwearplusmagazine.com • october/november 2018



the healthiest shoes you’ll ever wear ®


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