Footwear Plus | August 2017

THE MAN BEHIND SAMUEL HUBBARD

•

A H OY ! T H E U R B A N B O AT S H O E

•

K I D S ’ P R E V I E W : M AT U R E M O O D

ĆŤ Ä‚ Ĉ ĆŤ Ä‘ ĆŤ ĆŤ Ĉ ĆŤ Ä‘ ĆŤ Ä¸Ä Ä€

AU G U S T 2 0 1 7

AMERICAN BLEND Western and Boho Themes Paint a Pretty Picture for Spring

TM

Sneakers at work. Sneakers at restaurants. Is this really where civilization is heading?

After decades of settling for athletic shoes, men

Why are men willing to spend more on Hubbards? Made in Portugal, the leather-lined quality and craftsmanship, coupled with extensive marketing

have been craving something to bring them back

support, have made Hubbard the go-to shoe of

to…well…shoes.

the decade. Put a pair on your customers’ feet and

With nowhere-else-to-be-had comfort and styling, Samuel Hubbard has kick-started a revolution in the industry.

they’ll walk back into your store again and again.

Call our sales department at 415.381.8001 to schedule an in-store presentation.

More than 35 colors and styles for men and women, from casual to dress to active outdoor.

EXPERIENCE THE BØRN FOOTWEAR

SPRING 2018 COLLECTION

FN PLATFORM | TASM and at FFANY | NY Showroom, 575 7th Avenue, 15th Floor, New York, NY

SPRING 2018 SHOW

FN PLATFORM | Atlanta Shoe Market | Toronto Shoe Show For appointments: sales@rockport.com

ŠThe Rockport Company, LLC. All rights reserved.

Designed for mixing business with pleasure.

connecting

generations

TWO TEN FOOTWEAR FOUNDATION 78TH ANNUAL VIP DINNER & GALA

SAVE THE DATE WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 29, 2017 HAMMERSTEIN / THE MANHATTAN CENTER 311 WEST 34TH STREET, NEW YORK CITY

VIP DINNER & GALA CO-CHAIRS DR. BOBBY CAMPBELL

SETH CAMPBELL

Founder & Chairman, BBC International

VP International Sales, BBC International

GALA ENTERTAINMENT TROMBONE SHORTY & ORLEANS AVENUE

For sponsorship information or to register: www.twoten.org/annual-gala

AU G U S T 2 0 17 FEATU R ES 14 The Shoe Savior Bruce Katz, CEO of Samuel Hubbard, on how an old-fashioned approach to designing shoes and building a brand is taking the market by storm.

By Greg Dutter

Caroline Diaco Publisher

20 Trend Spotting The hottest hues, silhouettes, materials and add-ons for Spring ’18.

By Aleda Johnson

EDITORIAL Aleda Johnson Assistant Editor

54 New Beginnings Three veteran execs take the reins of three classic American brands, detailing their plans, strengths and why they are dream jobs.

By Greg Dutter 59 Growing Up Kids’ brands embrace a mature aesthetic for spring, although kitschy details remain part of the mix.

By Emily Beckman 62 Decked Out Bold patterns, unexpected materials, color pops and hybrid silhouettes: the classic deck shoe is reinvented.

By Katie Belloff

PA G E

66

66 The New Bohemians Western and boho elements meld in an authentic Americana blend rich in details and brewing with classic looks for spring.

By Daniela Lukomski

DEPA RTM ENTS On the cover: Harness boots by Durango, vintage pink silk two-piece and painted chambray shirt, Richer Poorer socks.

Paintings by Andrew Schwartz.

This page: Harley-Davidson booties with fringe detail.

Photography by Trevett McCandliss Stylist: Daniela Lukomski; hair and makeup: Dawn Brocco/Next Artists; models: Tayla/Fenton Model Mgmt., Stephen/Fenton Model Mgmt;

8 Editor’s Note 10 This Just In 12 Scene & Heard 48 Brand Focus 50 Note To My Younger Self 52 What’s Selling 76 Shoe Salon 78 Comfort 80 Last Shot

FOOTWEAR PLUS ™ (ISSN#1054-898X) The fashion magazine of the footwear industry is published monthly (except for bimonthly April/May and October/November editions) by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, 36 Cooper Square, 4th fl., New York, NY, 10003-7118. The publishers of this magazine do not accept responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage is paid in New York, NY, and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: $48.00 in the U.S. Rates oustide the U.S. are available upon request. Single copy price: $10.00. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to FOOTWEAR PLUS, P.O. Box 8548, Lowell, MA 01853-8548. Publisher not responsible for unsolicited articles or photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender. Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. No portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. ©2008 by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC. Printed in the United States.

6 footwearplusmagazine.com • august 2017

Greg Dutter Editorial Director Nancy Campbell Trevett McCandliss Creative Directors

Jashvina Shah Assistant Editor Kathy Passero Editor at Large Melodie Jeng Contributing Photographer ADVERTISING/ PRODUCTION Jennifer Craig Associate Publisher Katie Belloff Associate Art Director Production Manager Allison Kastner Operations Manager Bruce Sprague Circulation Director Mike Hoff Digital Director OFFICES Advertising/Editorial 135 W. 20th St., Suite 402 New York, NY 10011 Tel: (646) 278-1550 Fax: (646) 278-1553 editorialrequests@ 9Threads.com Circulation 26202 Detroit Road, #300 Westlake, OH 44145 Tel: (440) 871-1300 circulation@9Threads.com Corporate 9Threads 26202 Detroit Road, #300 Westlake, OH 44145 Tel: (440) 871-1300 Xen Zapis Chairman Lee Zapis President Rich Bongorno Chief Financial Officer Debbie Grim Controller

Tradition since 1774. birkenstock.com

E D I TOR ’S NOT E

Race to the Bottom

Smackdown!

AT WHAT POINT is a brand’s product priced low enough these days? When it’s a steal—literally?

Must the price be chopped so low that the seller doesn’t even make a profit after factoring in their (rising) fixed costs? At what point does price erosion become so great that brands are forced to “despecify” (take out features and benefits)? When does the old-adage “you get what you pay for” finally sink in?

If the pressure to sell merchandise for less and less continues, consumers will eventually get hollowed-out shoes in the form of cheaper materials, less padding and flimsy constructions. And brands will suffer the fallout if their shoes are deemed cheap. Their images will be tarnished, perhaps permanently.

Are consumers really to blame for the brand degradation going on now? Are their (showrooming) shopping tendencies fueling the pressure to beat and, therefore, lower prices? Or does the fault lie with retailers who, desperate for any sales in a kill or be killed landscape, cannibalize margins in their struggle to survive? Both are guilty. And many brand lives are at stake.

Welcome to the new world retail disorder, set largely by Amazon. The mega-retailer’s ability to match price and absorb the loss, if necessary, is wreaking havoc on the entire profitability structure across retail. Amazon’s ability to sell anywhere, anytime and anything from nearly every leading brand (if it gets its way) is creating an unprecedented race to the bottom on pricing and margins. This is no tiff between corner gas stations offering a few cents more off a gallon. This is Retail Wrestlemania—a steel cage match that pits retailers fighting for market share, brands fighting for integrity and consumers fighting for a good deal against each other.

But there will be no winners in this fight if the price keeps being forced down. Efficiency can only go so far until product quality suffers, brand image is destroyed and consumers are left buying inferior goods.

But there are MAP policies, you say, to prevent this death match. These offer no real deterrent—and they’re not easy to enforce. One recent survey estimated that more than half of American consumers check Amazon first when they shop online. They expect to find whatever they want there, and they expect to find it at the lowest price. If they can’t, they’re likely to search Amazon Marketplace, the worldwide garage sale/flea market/black market bazaar where it’s price control anarchy. With many leading brands doing more than 20 percent of their total sales on those two platforms, it’s not easy to refuse.

There are, however, a few footwear brands who’ve left the cage.

Admittedly, they are a dwindling minority, especially since the world’s biggest shoe company (Nike) shook the industry to its core recently by entering into a limited selling agreement with Amazon. One resister is Samuel Hubbard, which stopped selling on Amazon and banned its retailers from selling on Marketplace last August. Bruce Katz, CEO and the subject of this month’s Q&A (p. 14), says the reasoning was simple: He didn’t want the brand to become a price football. The co-founder of The Rockport Company, who has returned to the industry after nearly three decades away, has several hard-and-fast rules. No. 1 is never mark down the price of shoes—ever.

That’s not how Amazon rolls. Under its steadfast free market mantra, prices are always subject to be lowered. Can you blame them? The approach has worked pretty well for the company to date. But Katz is countering that model, proving that shoes made in Portugal of the finest materials and retailing in the low- to mid-$200s sell—a lot. Samuel Hubbard is growing at an 80-percent annual clip since launching in 2014, showing naysayers that it can be done. Actually, Katz is bucking several industry norms: He’s building partnerships based on mutual benefit and running a wildly successful print ad campaign. His inspiring story proves that many long-established principles work as well now as they ever did.

Birkenstock is another brand that’s been (very publicly) trying to protect its image from the threat Amazon poses. Dave Kahan, CEO of Birkenstock Americas, was even featured in the Washington Post (which is owned by Amazon, ironically) expressing his outrage over the new Fulfillment by Amazon program, which contacts retailers and offers full price on goods in an effort to beef up its own selection. Kahan views it as an end-around since Birkenstock stopped selling on Amazon last year—mainly due to the fact that Amazon doesn’t police the sale of counterfeit goods on Marketplace. He called Fulfillment by Amazon “modern-day piracy” and a threat to all brands. He also says any retailer that takes Amazon up on the offer will be closed “FOREVER.” Who’s to say that merchandise Amazon obtains wouldn’t be steeply discounted, forcing other retailers to do the same and eventually forcing Birkenstock to reconsider selling on Amazon?

Ultimatums. Threats. Accusations. Suspicions. Kahan believes he’s fighting for his brand’s very existence. And whether you’ve been around for 243 years like Birkenstock or three like Samuel Hubbard, that’s a cause worth fighting for.

Greg Dutter

Editorial Director

8 footwearplusmagazine.com • august 2017

www.gabor.de

Purveyors of luxury European comfort footwear

Tel: (800) 361-3466 - info@kannercorp.net

THIS JUST IN

french dressing Parisian women look haute in the hot weather.

Photography by Melodie Jeng

10 footwearplusmagazine.com • august 2017

FFANY Suite PLATFORM Booth Atlanta Shoe Show Booth Fame Booth RestrictedShoes.com . .

SCENE & HEARD

Rise of the Keen Machine

IT’S NOT UNUSUAL for robots to work the aisles of warehouses, but Keen is bringing one into the stores of select partners. Its name is Uneekbot, a robot operated by a single technician that allows patrons to custom design a pair of Uneek sport sandals while they wait.

When a request is made, Uneekbot’s two arms stitch the cording through the outsole before a sales representative adds the finishing touches. Based on a customer’s request, the robot can color customize the sole, heel, cord colors, hardware and bungee cord of each shoe. In addition, each pair includes a custom outsole reading “PDX Born, TYO Made.”

Uneekbot reduces a customer’s wait time—for only $10 more than its factory-made counterparts—as it cuts out the need to ship the prod-

uct, also diminishing Keen’s carbon footprint, says Tyler LaMotte, vice president of global brand marketing.

“The key benefit of the Uneekbot is making product as close to the consumer as possible,” he says. “By building the product in-store, the Uneekbot brings footwear manufacturing directly to the point of purchase.”

First launched at a Keen popup in Tokyo’s Harajuku district last month, Uneekbot made an appearance at the recent Keen booth at the Outdoor Retailer show in Salt Lake City, UT, and LaMotte says “the sky’s the limit” as to where it can go next. “The beauty of the Uneekbot is that by having the ‘world’s smallest shoe factory,’ it can make Uneek virtually anywhere,” he says.

Uneekbot makes custom Keen sandals while you wait.

Reebok Shoots for the Moon THEY’RE ASTRONAUT APPROVED. Reebok’s Floatride Space Boot SB-01, developed in partnership with David Clark Company, is currently being tested by space cowboys to accompany the final suit worn for those set to shuttle to and from the International Space Station in Boeing’s new CST-100 Starliner next year. The boots feature the company’s Floatride foam technology, which was first introduced in Floatride Run style in April. The boots are strictly for space travelers, but a Floatride Racer model (weighing in at less than one ounce!), will debut at retail next year for planet-locked terrestrials.

The Floatride technology is considered extremely lightweight and comfortable—an integral component to spacewear, according to Matt Montross of Reebok Innovation. He notes that just a single pound can have big financial implications. While traditional, hefty space boots have been made of rigid leather and firm soles, Montross says Reebok Floatride Foam introduces three revolutionary elements to the space boot: decreasing the overall weight significantly, adding running shoe-like comfort and support, and delivering a new level of sleekness and style. Start your shuttle engines: the fashion in space race has begun!

Custom ‘Tims’ Gone Wild TIMBERLAND IS COLLABORATING with Ultamiciti designer Travis Williams on 12 handdesigned wild animal motifs atop its classic six-inch boot. The collection will be available exclusively at Champs Sports’ State Street store in Chicago, beginning Aug. 26. The limited-edition styles— which includes tiger, lion and bear designs—retails for $400.

“Back in 1998, my cousin suggested I take these designs to Timberland, and I thought he was crazy,” says Williams. “To see them finally working with me—almost 19 years later—is like a dream come true.”

Williams says the wild animal designs are inspired by the concrete city jungles where urban life can be difficult. He designs each boot by hand. Simpler artwork can take one or two days, while complex

12 footwearplusmagazine.com • august 2017

creations such as these can take as long as two to three weeks to complete.

All proceeds from the collab will benefit the Little Black Pearl Art and Design Academy, a Chicago public school that aids students deemed at-risk.

The school helps children of the city’s South Side by presenting them with role models, instruction and opportunities to succeed.

Champs Sports has also announced a mentorship and curatorial partnership with the school, allowing students to design and curate the interior of its State Street location, which opened in July.

The 16,000-square-foot space features shop-inshops from market leaders like Adidas and Under Armour, a wall of local champions mural and a space for community activities.

A FRESH LOOK FOR SPRING 2018 F N P L AT F O R M A UG US T 1 4 -1 6 , 2 01 7 BOOTH # 8 1 0 5 5

AT L A N TA S H O E M A R K E T

NY NOW

A U G U S T 1 9 -21 , 20 1 7

A U G U S T 2 0 -2 3 , 2 0 17

BOOTH #721-723-725

BOOTH #8269

BY GREG DUTTER

T H E S H O E SAV I O R B r u c e K a t z , C E O o f S a m u e l H u b b a r d , o n h o w t h e c o m p a n y ’s old-fashioned approach to designing shoes and building a brand is a b l a s t f r o m t h e p a s t t h a t ’s t a k i n g t h e m a r k e t b y s t o r m .

B

RUCE KATZ REALLY had no choice but to get back into the shoe business after a near 30-year hiatus. You see, the cofounder of The Rockport Company was down to the last few cherished pairs of his favorite (Rocksport) style—the remnants of a 24-pair haul that he had taken with him upon selling the company to Reebok in 1986. Katz got to worrying about the “really sad day” that would soon arrive when he wouldn’t be able to retrieve another trusty pair from his attic. Not long after his father, Saul, passed away in 2012, Katz’s eight-year-old daughter showed him a shoe she had drawn and suggested they design shoes together. The two events got him thinking about his family’s rich footwear-making legacy.

“I didn’t know she had any idea that I had been in the shoe business, but I guess she’d gotten that information from my father (cofounder of Rockport) before he passed,” Katz says. “I started thinking about our family legacy and how my daughter would never know about it.”

Katz thought a lot about his grandfather, Samuel Katz, and Hubbard Shoes, the manufacturing company he founded in 1930 in Rochester, N.H. Katz’s father worked there for decades until the Asian sourcing shift forced it to shutter and put him on a path to sourcing shoes in Brazil that would evolve into The Rockport Company. Katz became enamored with the idea of reintroducing the factory’s name to the marketplace as a shoe brand. He also thought about his love of building businesses. (During his 27-year footwear hiatus, Katz’s startup ventures included fish farming, flavored teas, trash recycling, owning Esprit, designing mountain bikes, solar panel installation, home building and hotel ownership. He was also deeply involved in the technology sector, leading Internet startups and designing software.) But as fate would have it, Katz was between startups.

Plus, the man who sailed around the world—logging 270,000 nautical miles post-Rockport—now had a family and was facing the prospect of being dry-docked until his daughter went off to college.

“I just love to build businesses, but I didn’t have one for a few years, and I’d been looking for one that I could sink my teeth into,” Katz says,

14 footwearplusmagazine.com • august 2017

noting that during this brief career lull he kept busy. “First I rebuilt our house, then I built a garden, but I was also tired of having so many different businesses.” Katz recalled some frequently offered advice from friends: “That I should make shoes again—do something that I at least know something about,” he says with a laugh.

That brings us back to Katz’s cherished Rocksports. Initially, he thought small: travel to Italy to have a craftsman replicate a batch for his personal

2018 Collection ISLANDSLIPPER.COM

Platform, Surf Expo, WCTS

O&A wardrobe. But he decided to take it a step further and design a few styles that he would sell on his own website. Nothing big, he thought—just a small inventory and all very low key. “I started this with very modest ambitions,” Katz says. “I thought I’d sell them like grandma’s jam, out of the garage.”

That might have been the plan, but that’s not what’s happened since Katz introduced Samuel Hubbard to the world in 2014. The brand has caught on like wildfire, fueled by an extensive old-school print media campaign touting its premium, classic comfort styles offered in a broad array of colors. Katz reports that Samuel Hubbard has been growing at an 80-percent annual clip and is “way the hell ahead” of where he projected it might be just three years into the game. “It’s hard to grow a business much faster and keep up with all the internal systems,” he says. “We just redid our SAP installation, and we spent 10 months rebuilding our website.”

The company’s quick adaptation to a wholesale distribution model helped drive the rapid rise in sales, says Katz. He wisely realized this was the best way to get noticed as a new brand. As a result, Samuel Hubbard has become the new What are you reading? The belle of the ball for hundreds of leading One Device: The Secret History comfort specialty independents, upscale of the iPhone. I think I’ve read chains and apparel boutiques—retailers every book ever written about that understand its Portuguese-made Steve Jobs. qualities and learned that they can sell footwear priced in the low- to mid-$200s What is inspiring you? I love to their more discerning clients. to build things—houses, boats, Samuel Hubbard’s offerings have since companies and shoes. I don’t expanded into dress casuals, performance like sitting still very much. hiking boots and the new sneaker-esque Hubbard Fast collection. Katz believes the What is your motto? Our brand is on the verge of an even bigger company motto is “making introduction: its first women’s-specific line. friends one pair at a time.”

He expects to deliver the shoes in coming months—when they’re ready and not just If you could hire anybody, to make a trade show. “It takes us a long who would it be? I loved time to get our shoes just right—the conworking with my father, but structions, materials and fit can’t be done he’s gone. Beyond that we’ve fast,” he says. Katz is confident that when assembled a fantastic team that the new styles make their debut, they will I love working with. While I generate the same “wow” response previous collections have. “The shoes feature about five different types of materials. It’s a very difficult construction, but it makes for an elegant interior,” he says. “The women wear-testing in Portugal are saying, ‘Wow!’ And while we don’t try and set the world on fire with far-out fashion, I think women here will love them.”

Samuel Hubbard is on a roll, and Katz is enjoying the ride—again. “I’m having fun with this, although sometimes I remember why they call it work,” he says. “I start at 5 a.m. and put in about 12 hours a day, but I’m fortunate to be working on a boat in Martha’s Vineyard right now and my family is with me. With a laptop, a cell phone, skype and DHL—it all works pretty well.”

Samuel Hubbard, however, wouldn’t exist if it weren’t for a fortunate trade show encounter about a year before the launch. Katz, still in reconnaissance mode, attended the Las Vegas show to get the lay of the land. He was “stunned” to discover how little had changed and was about to bag the idea altogether. “When you’ve been through 14 years of building a shoe company to 300 employees, adding all the systems and gone through all the headaches, I thought, ‘Can I face all that again?’” Katz says, noting that a shoe company is quite different from, say, an Internet startup. “Building a shoe company is

a bit of a moose; it’s really complicated,” he says. “A software company needs an office, desks, computers, a whiteboard and then you figure out what to do. It’s not like trying to get a shoe to fit and then made consistently. That’s so much more challenging.”

But Katz happened to run into an old friend in the show aisles. The two were reminiscing when they spotted Werner Wyrsch, the former head of Rockport manufacturing. Katz showed them his beloved Rocksport style and floated the idea of designing a new shoe. Wyrsch was intrigued and took the shoe back to Portugal, where he had his own sourcing company. He and Katz communicated through Skype over the ensuing months and Katz then visited Wyrsch, who happened to be based near a factory that had once made Rockport shoes. It would be the first of several trips during which Wyrsch and Katz tweaked and re-tweaked their design. It got to the point that Katz says the Portuguese factory partners suspected the venture would never get off the ground. But the duo persisted and—16 months later—they had their first shoe: the Hubbard Free.

“We finally had a shoe on the table where concentrate on product, softI said, ‘That looks good,’” Katz says, notware and systems, I leave it to ing the plain toe style got its name from a our people to figure out what marketing concept. He gave away 5,000 they need to do in their respecpairs to brand evangelists, including about tive areas, which I believe is 200 influential retailers, 800 podiatrists a great opportunity for them, and 1,300 executives attending a TED and they are very creative and conference. “The shoe was essentially talented. free,” he says. “But it’s also free in terms of the roomy fit that’s liberating for your What talent would you most feet. It all fit together.” like to have? Fortunetelling.

The rest, you could say, is Samuel Hubbard history in the making. It’s a Who is your most coveted startup success story that blends olddinner guest? Barack and fashioned footwear brand-building basics Michelle Obama. with fresh designs and innovative strategies that run counter to current industry What is your favorite homewisdom—like not selling on Amazon town memory? Sailing along or other digital-only dealers and never the coast of Maine with my marking down any of its shoes. It’s a tale family. We kept a sloop in with plenty of amusing anecdotes and York Harbor. surprises. And while much has changed in the industry since Katz’s return, there’s still one constant: great products sell. “If you put a better product on the market, consumers will eventually recognize it, talk about it and want it,” he says.

“That’s the grassroots, evangelistic, word-of-mouth process that drove Apple.”

It’s why Katz is bullish on continued growth for Samuel Hubbard, a brand that he views as a refreshing throwback in a sneaker-dominated world. “We’ve taken a different tact,” he says. “We make conventional shoes that look and feel great with lots of colors, and it’s getting people excited about wearing shoes again. We’re helping revive the ‘shoe’ business.”

OFF THE CUFF

16 footwearplusmagazine.com • august 2017

No markdowns, no digital-only dealers, premium priced shoes made in Europe…Samuel Hubbard is bucking many current industry conventions and doing quite well. What gives?

I don’t know. I think I must have come back at exactly the right moment when my notion of current was everyone else’s idea of retro perfect. Because if I told you that we would lead with bright colors in a traditional style most people would have said, ‘Good luck.’ But it turns out people love it. Our shoes look good with jeans or chinos. It’s fresh. People aren’t used to seeing men in

O&A Introducing

by:

Eliminating plastic pollution one pair at a time.

regular shoes, except for some accountant wearing beat-up Allen Edmonds that he’s been polishing forever. And the comfort completely sells them. It’s like a wrap for your feet. We’ll put ourselves up against any other shoes in the store. And I believe that we’re proving that if you give consumers really good product available in sizes and widths and take care of your retailers, you can grow a healthy business. It’s already much more of a business than I was expecting it to be.

The product is that good?

Well, I want to make really good shoes. At Rockport, we made shoes as well as we could and always chose the best materials. It’s the same with Samuel Hubbard. When I go to the Lineapelle show, for example, I never ask the price of the leathers. Werner will ask eventually, but I’m just looking at whether the feel, texture, color and smell are all the best. I picked out a shearling lining recently for a chukka boot that was the most expensive you could buy, but it was gorgeous. It was like genuine teddy bear. So that’s how I’ve always gone about making shoes. Our lining leathers are nearly as expensive as our uppers. I also wanted to get people out of sneakers because there’s a lot to be said as to why a shoe is actually a better all-day wear. Sneakers can be super comfortable for running, but wearing them all day can get pretty squishy and stinky. Our shoes are cool and dry, because leather breathes, and we don’t put any glue between the lining and the upper.

Quality can be a difference maker on many levels.

Yes, but it wasn’t an easy sell to retailers at first. We would show them the line, they would love how it feels and looks, but then they’d often say they could never sell a $200-plus shoe to their customers. They’d say, “Men don’t want to spend that amount of money on shoes.” Then, at the end of the conversation, they’d ask for a pair.

Shoes made from recycled plastic waste.

Each pair of ECOTWX eliminates 13 plastic bottles.

For every pair you buy, Twisted X plants a tree.

It’s that simple. #SHOESTHATSAVE

Atlanta Shoe Show #1157

FN Platform #82962

Call Mary for an appointment: (630) 596.3794

Why were they wrong initially?

While I was away from the business, the Asian sourcing boom lowered all the price points from where they would have been had it not been for that cheap labor. Men got used to the lower prices. And now a lot of retailers claim they need at least 58 points or a discount to make a profit because their fixed costs have kept going up. That’s the heart of the story that no one is really talking about: A lot of retailers have gone out of business not just because of big box chains and Amazon, but because the price point of shoes has gone down while their fixed costs have gone up. Yet consumers, especially men, aren’t necessarily buying three pairs because they are cheaper.

That’s why I believe retailers are much better off selling a full-price shoe at $220. They are so focused on the percentage. I say forget that. Besides, do you want to sell everyone a Chevrolet? There’s nobody in your town who’s a veterinarian, lawyer, banker or doctor—anybody who could possibly want more than that lower-priced model? It took us a couple of years to prove our case, but now many have discovered that they do have those customers.

In fact, one customer recently bought 14 pairs in a store in Iowa, and there are many reviews on our website of customers also buying multiple pairs.

Yet many thought no one would buy the first pair. That’s until customers realized they never knew what a quality shoe felt like on their foot.

And that’s without selling online-only dealers. Why steer clear of them?

The main reason is that we didn’t want to turn our brand into a price football. Even marked down by $1, we don’t want them to do it. We took this approach a step further last August when we gave our retail partners 90 days to stop selling our shoes on Amazon Marketplace or we would stop shipping them. I had one retailer who was drop-shipping 500 pairs on the site, and I thought he would go ballistic, but he ended up agreeing that we

were doing the right thing by our brand. Same goes for Nordstrom: When they asked to feature our shoes in their anniversary catalog, we said no. We want to have one consistent price, and we’ve managed to do that. We have never put a shoe on sale on our website and never will. And our retailers haven’t marked our shoes down either, because they haven’t had to. They are basic styles and just need to be filled in and they continue to sell.

Discover the beauty of comfort.

But your brick-and-mortar retail partners can sell the brand on their sites. Correct?

Yes, we are happy to work with retailers who want to carry our brand on their own sites. I’m working on systems that will enable them to offer the whole catalog to benefit from a larger selection. I have some software ideas on how to do that. I’ve been thinking about them for two years because I believe, in the end, shoe stores need a hybrid business model. I see no reason why a store can’t be a combination of a store as we know it and a pop-up showroom. I also believe that a store could easily become a concierge service for customers looking for certain kinds of shoes. For example, a woman in need of a three-inch, navy blue pump can ask a retailer to find it for her. Now some consumers will go to Zappos, buy 12 different variations of that style and return 11 of them. But nobody makes any money in that scenario.

Not to mention the enormous carbon footprint that type of “shopping” leaves behind.

I was amazed when I was in Aspen around Christmas last year and the local Fed-Ex store was stacked to the ceiling with Zappos boxes being returned.

That’s why I believe the brick-and-mortar retailer can serve as the shopping expert, and they should be the experts because their life is this business and they know what customers will want and need. They’ll field a request, get the shoes and send them to their house, if the customer prefers. Nordstrom probably has 6,000 SKUs and Zappos has 20,000 SKUs. Who has time to look through that? Curation and concierge services could be a way for traditional retailers to compete. We’re also working on programs where if a customer orders two sizes, the order goes to our customer service center; they’ll write back stating that our shoes fit true to size and ask what other brands/sizes the customer is wearing so we don’t have to send multiple pairs and deal with the returns.

Where are you in terms of your overall distribution plan?

By the end of this year we’ll be in about 500 doors, which, starting from nothing, is pretty good. Now I don’t know if there are another 500 of those types of doors to be had, but we’re finding them and they are steadily coming around to us. Nordstrom, for example, is accelerating with us and we are reportedly way ahead of plan. Another tier that looks to offer a lot of potential is outdoor specialty. Consumers generally don’t usually buy ski boots, skis or hiking boots online. They like to touch and feel the product, and they like the whole vibe of those stores. We now offer fantastic leatherlined hiking boots that I believe are equal to any German-made mode, l and we are developing more products in that category. Personally, I like to hike, and that type of footwear is more natural for me to think about from a design perspective. The category presents a good growth opportunity for Samuel Hubbard.

As does your women’s-specific collection that’s soon to be introduced?

I believe we’re really onto something there. While we’ve offered our original collection in women’s sizes, it’s a man-tailored look. There are women who swear by them, but I don’t believe it will ever be a huge business. So we set out to make women’s shoes that, when women put them on, they’ll >77

Visit us at Platform Booth #81636 www.lamourdespieds.com | 800.527.5322

f facebook.com/LDPshoes i instagram.com/lamourdespieds t twitter.com/lamourdespieds

T R E N D S P OT T I N G

THE FUCHSIA IS NO W THE SEASON’S MOST ELECTRIC H U E I S FA S T A N D FURIOUS.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOSEPH PLUCHINO

20 footwearplusmagazine.com • august 2017

From top: Thierry Rabotin, Penny Loves Kenny.

Opposite, from left: Zero Tie, Seychelles, Dansko (slide), Hoka One One.

2017 august • footwearplusmagazine.com 21

BOOTING UP Breathable fabric transitions chukkas from winter to spring, no sweat.

Clockwise from top left: Clarks, Timberland, Twisted X, Cat.

22 footwearplusmagazine.com • august 2017

PH OTO G RA PH Y BY J OS E P H PLU CH I NO

T R E N D S P OT T I N G

G OOD JEANS A m e r i c a ’s f a b r i c g e t s a l a d y l i k e m a k e o v e r.

Clockwise from top: The Flexx, Seychelles, Minnetonka, Ugg, Restricted.

24 footwearplusmagazine.com • august 2017

PH OTO G RA PH Y BY J OS E P H PLU CH I NO

T R E N D S P OT T I N G

T R E N D S P OT T I N G

PH OTO G RA PH Y BY J OS E P H P LU C H I NO

1

FINISHING SCHOOL Ta s s e l s a d d a l i t t l e p r e p s c h o o l f l a i r t o b a s i c s .

Clockwise from top left: TMRW Studio, Keds, Geox, Cougar, Gabor.

2017 august • footwearplusmagazine.com 25

PINK FOR PUDDLES Brighten up dreary days with a little puddle panache.

Clockwise from top: Western Chief, Cougar, Joules.

26 footwearplusmagazine.com • august 2017

PH OTO G RA PH Y BY J OS E P H PLU CH I NO

T R E N D S P OT T I N G

Dansko, Dansko and the Wing Design are all trademarks of Dansko, LLC. @2017 Dansko, LLC. 1.800.326.7564

EMBRACE YOUR JOURNEY Visit us at Platform booth #82307 and the Atlanta Shoe Market booth #1437-1439, 1536-1538.

Contact your sales rep to preview Spring 2018.

WEDGE SALAD We d g e s a n d a l s o f f e r s t a b i l i t y a n d s t a t u r e .

Clockwise from top left: Taos, Clarks, Naot, Tamaris, Famolare, Thierry Rabotin, Azura.

28 footwearplusmagazine.com • august 2017

PH OTO G RA PH Y BY J OS E P H PLU CH I NO

T R E N D S P OT T I N G

FAMILY JEWELS G r a n d m a ’s p e a r l b a u b l e s g e t a n e w l e a s e o n l i f e a s c l a s s y o r n a m e n t s .

Clockwise, from top: Summit White Mountain, Jewel Badgley Mischka, FFC New York, Bella-Vita, Seychelles.

30 footwearplusmagazine.com • august 2017

PH OTO G RA PH Y BY J OS E P H PLU CH I NO

T R E N D S P OT T I N G

[Zen]

FN Platform / Las Vegas, NV / Booth # 82350 Atlanta Shoe Market / Booth # 1236-1242 BSTA Northeast Expo / Manchester, NH / Booth # 307-114 (South Hall) dealers.taosfootwear.com

’DRILLE SERGEANT The summertime sole staple lines up in a range of silhouettes.

Clockwise, from top left: Splendid, Sporto, Sarah Flint, J. Reneé, Patrizia by Spring Step.

32 footwearplusmagazine.com • august 2017

PH OTO G RA PH Y BY J OS E P H PLU CH I NO

T R E N D S P OT T I N G

E CCO V I T R U S

DYNAMI C COM F O R T P L A T F OR M

S EE THE NEW S S18 COLLECTION AT THE ECCO BOOTH AT THE FN PL ATFORM S HOW AND THE ATL ANTA S HOE MARKET

T R E N D S P OT T I N G

Tamaris

Chelsea Crew

Earthies

IVY LEAGUE FUNK Pe r f o r a t e d l e a t h e r and cutaways graduate the classic silhouette to a whole new level.

34 footwearplusmagazine.com • august 2017

Cat

The Flexx

Latigo

Propét

2017 august • footwearplusmagazine.com 35

PH OTO G RA PH Y BY J OS E P H PLU CH I NO

Spring Step

ONE, TWO...

Buckle these shoes. Chunky closures create statement pieces.

Clockwise from top: Gabor, Dansko, Musse & Cloud, Birkenstock.

36 footwearplusmagazine.com • august 2017

PH OTO G RA PH Y BY J OS E P H PLU CH I NO

T R E N D S P OT T I N G

FLIPS & SLIDES A sophisticated palette and rich leathers turn daytime casuals into evening wear.

From top: Pikolinos, Puma, Reef, Sebago.

38 footwearplusmagazine.com • august 2017

PH OTO G RA PH Y BY J OS E P H PLU CH I NO

T R E N D S P OT T I N G

Come and Experience Earth at These Upcoming Shows: July 26 - 29, Outdoor Retailer, #32161 Salt Palace Convention Center August 14 - 16, FN Platform, #82614 & #82815 Las Vegas Convention Center August 19 - 21, Atlanta Shoe Market, #1317-1323 Cobb Galleria Centre

Styles Featured: Earth Ibiza & Tierra

earthshoes.com

SATIN FINISH The rich, shimmery fabric transitions styles from day to night.

Clockwise, from top: Sarah Flint, Jewel Badgley Mischka, Seven Dials, Restricted, J. Reneé.

40 footwearplusmagazine.com • august 2017

PH OTO G RA PH Y BY J OS E P H PLU CH I NO

T R E N D S P OT T I N G

FLOWER SHOP Floral appliques bloom as a delicate finishing touch.

Clockwise, from top: Penny Loves Kenny, Nina, Tuscany by Easy Street, Secret Celebrity, Spring Step L’Artiste.

42 footwearplusmagazine.com • august 2017

PH OTO G RA PH Y BY J OS E P H PLU CH I NO

T R E N D S P OT T I N G

THE SOFT PARADE A palette of pastels sweeten sneakers to slides.

Clockwise, from top left: Patrizia by Spring Step, Keds, Sacha London (wedge), Cougar, Clarks, Coolway.

44 footwearplusmagazine.com • august 2017

PH OTO G RA PH Y BY J OS E P H PLU CH I NO

T R E N D S P OT T I N G

Bella~Vita “FINLEY” SPRING 2018 46 SIZES & 4 WIDTHS IN-STOCK & OPEN-STOCK 1-800-970-8482

®

T R E N D S P OT T I N G

SEW GOOD Intricate needlepoint creations weave in eye-catching details.

Clockwise from top left: Crew II, Minnetonka, Rockport, Gabor, Seven Dials.

46 footwearplusmagazine.com • august 2017

To e s m a k e a n a p p e a r a n c e i n t h e m u l e ’ s m o r e r e v e a l i n g r e l a t i v e .

Clockwise from top left: Ugg, Earth, Johnston & Murphy.

2017 august • footwearplusmagazine.com 47

PH OTO G RA PH Y BY J OS E P H PLU CH I NO

FOR PEEP’S SAKE

BRAND FOCUS: JONES & VINING

RELIABLE RESOURCE C harlie Liberge, president of Jones & Vining, re veals how t h e 87- y e a r - o l d c o m p o n e n t s a n d l a s t s m a ke r i s a d a p t i n g t o m e e t the needs of brands, designers and developers.

By Greg Dutter

THE FOOTWEAR INDUSTRY is industry used to operate. “Brands used to changing—rapidly and radically. All facets, set that limit and now consumers are including design, sourcing, manufactursetting it,” he adds. ing and, of course, retailing, are going As a result, Liberge says many brands through enormous disruption. Any reliare looking to do three things. 1. Take more able resource offers a port in the storm. control over the manufacturing process, Jones & Vining (makers of lasts, inserts, and by extension, the components utilized midsoles and outsoles) is one such port. in their shoes. 2. Improve manufacturing, “Over the years, Jones & Vining has which requires looking at alternatives adapted to the ever-changing marketplace sourcing partners. (Liberge notes that through the innovation of products, the China is no longer the dominant source introduction of new services and the comregion, which is forcing companies to mitment to assisting our customers to meet look elsewhere and to seek component the demands of their ultimate consumer,” companies that can service them globally.) says Charlie Liberge, president. What’s 3. Decrease the number of suppliers that more, the Brockton, MA-headquartered they work with because streamlining can firm is the only global company in the make an enormous difference in terms industry that specializes in developing of fit, consistency, speed to market and components. “We have a competitive shortening the development calendar. set in each one of those categories, but “That’s what makes Jones & Vining such when you combine all of the things we a great partner,” Liberge says. “We’re not do under the Jones & Vining umbrella, just a components company; we are a there’s nobody who can compete with us.” solution to help brands deliver on what Why is being a one-shop resource for is expected of them in today’s market.” these services increasingly important In addition to streamlining and simtoday? Liberge cites three reasons: the plifying, Liberge says Jones & Vining is need for brands to shorten their developassisting its partners from an innovation ment calendars, to introduce new products standpoint. The company is introducto market faster and to make product ing new manufacturing techniques Jones & Vining: a one-stop source for the latest in lasts, inserts, consistent as possible. Consistency is and components that allow brands to midsoles and outsole technologies. particularly critical, according to Liberge. improve their designs in the early stages “As more product is sold online, the (current) 28 percent return rate of product development, which shortens the development calendar. Jones cannot continue,” he says. “Brands cannot survive on those kinds of & Vining also helps brands improve product consistency and upgrade figures.” The most effective way to lower that return rate is through fit performance, fit and comfort. The goal is to ease the manufacturing consistency across a brand’s product range. “It must be stronger than it process as well as increase the comfort and performance of product. has ever been before,” he adds.

Recent examples include new insole and midsole technologies, sustainAnother important factor brands, designers and developers need able products and—for the first time—extensive 3D CAD technology to consider when choosing a components partner is how much better development. “We are also one of the leaders in Smart Last technology, informed today’s consumer is. “Because consumers are smarter, they which uses robotics manufacturing,” Liberge adds, noting, “It allows are demanding certain features and benefits at a reasonable price that brands to manufacture in places where they couldn’t do so before.” brands have to deliver on,” Liberge says. It’s a distinct shift from how the To turn innovative ideas into realities, Liberge and his senior man-

48 footwearplusmagazine.com • august 2017

agement team of CEO Lee Goldberg and Chairman of the Board Mark Krentzman have been putting together an A-list team of talent. It includes newest members Bill Dillon, executive vice president of finance, who has more than 25 years of experience at Wolverine Worldwide and Stride Rite, and Katrina Hartwell, executive vice president of strategic business development. “Katrina is also a 25-year veteran of the industry, having worked for New Balance, Reebok and Stride Rite,” Liberge says, noting she is currently helping Jones & Vining develop an aftermarket inserts strategy (insoles, arch supports, heel cups, etc.) for its brand partners. Liberge believes the category offers huge growth potential. “I look at this market as the hosiery business of 20 years ago,” he says, noting back then it was rarely seen at retail and consisted of one or two brands on display. “Today, there are as many as 30 hosiery brands on display,” he says. “We think inserts present an exciting opportunity, and we are looking forward to helping grow that market for our partners.”

Last but not least, Liberge says Jones & Vining’s mission is to educate potential and existing customers on what it offers. After nearly nine decades as one of the world’s premier last makers, that reputation can overshadow the rest of its services. “Our goal is to inform both new and experienced designers about why we are a company they can and should work with,” he says. The education effort includes last seminars to help designers and developers better understand their importance, which is part of a larger issue: “A lot of new designers create incredible designs, but when it comes to the actual manufacturing process, many can’t be made,” Liberge notes. “We help them understand how every

shoe basically is built out from the last.” (Jones & Vining is conducting a last seminar this month during The Materials Show’s Northwest edition, Aug. 16-17, in Portland, OR.) Going forward, Liberge says the goal for Jones & Vining is to continue to spread the word about its services and to look at opportunities around the globe to better service customers. “We have facilities in Indonesia, Vietnam, China and two in the U.S.,” he says. The U.S. base is expected to grow in importance as the interest in American manufacturing becomes stronger, especially with robotics. “We’re the only last manufacturer in the U.S., and it’s quicker to market for manufacturers here like SAS, Justin Boots, Danner, Belleville Boot Company, Red Wing and Munro,” he says. “We’re an enormous resource for them, and it’s all here and under one umbrella.” Liberge also believes that being a U.S. company with Asian ties enables Jones & Vining to work with U.S. brands on a continual basis more effectively than companies based elsewhere.

The future looks bright for Jones & Vining. Liberge is looking for substantial growth over the next three to five years. Market forces are lining up for the company’s current offerings and those it plans to introduce. “The demands on brands to deliver products that have more features and benefits at a reasonable cost is only increasing,” he says. That puts pressure on designers, developers and product managers and, ultimately, the components manufacturers and factories that service them. “Our unique combination of services in conjunction with our commitment to provide continual assistance makes us unique and a perfect partner in today’s marketplace,” Liberge says.

Rainy

FFANY, rooms 1814 & 1815 FN PLATFORM, booth 83041 Toronto Shoe Show, booth 1325 cougarshoes.com

me.

day

A N OT E T O M Y Y O U N G E R S E L F

BE TRUE TO YOU Sari Ratsula, president of Seychelles Imports, reflects on a l i f e’s j o u r n e y fi l l e d w i t h o p p o r t u n i t i e s , u n e x p e c t e d c h a l l e n g e s and the sweet rewards of overcoming them.

DEAR SARI, Life is a funny thing. You think you know who you are when you’re young, and then you end up looking back on your last 30 years only to realize that while your core is still the same, you sure have evolved.

What might feel unfair at the time will lead to the biggest, most positive opportunity of your life, so believe that things happen for a reason, and always be open to opportunities. You might want to plan everything in advance, but you never know what the next door will reveal. Remember how you decided to apply for an AIESEC internship (a global platform for young people to explore and develop their leadership potential abroad) just before you finished your master’s degree in Helsinki School of Economics and Business Administration?

The German newspaper you applied to rescinded their offer and bruised your self-esteem horribly, but it led to you landing a position at Vans instead. English wasn’t even your first language, but your mom was so proud of you when you went to California for your six-month internship in 1989. That internship led to your first job. Now, almost 30 years later, she is still wondering why her grandchildren are American and living almost 10,000 kilometers away! You never know where life will lead you. If you hadn’t been open to changing your plans, you would have missed this amazing shoe industry journey, from Vans to Seychelles.

As you grow older, you will realize how little control you actually have on anything other than your own effort and attitude. You are in charge of yourself and your actions, so always be responsible.

Don’t let things slide or blame others. You are straightforward and direct, which can sometimes be hard in relationships, so

50 footwearplusmagazine.com • august 2017

remember that being kind goes a long way. On that note, be kind to yourself and give yourself time to figure things out. Very little happens overnight, so it’s OK to be patient.

There will be obstacles in your life, and unfortunately a few big ones with your health. You will face Type 1 diabetes right after graduating and have to shoot insulin for the rest of your life. But it will not stop you from doing what you love; it will just make you stronger. You will also battle cancer and realize the importance of self-love when, prior to your surgery, you write a letter to your young children telling them about yourself to make sure they’ll remember you in case the worst happens. That’s the moment you will understand that regardless of your faults, mistakes and craziness, you actually love who you are and want your kids to know that. It will be a sad yet beautiful moment to remember and, from that point on, you will care less what people think of you and more about staying true to yourself. What matters to you most is your own integrity; doing the right thing and treating people with respect, regardless of who’s watching.

When people ask you why you are so intense in everything you do, it’s OK to tell them that intensity goes handin-hand with passion, and that’s what drives you. Don’t try to be anyone else; just be the best version of who you are. Believe in yourself and your gut. It will lead you in the right direction.

How lucky you are to be able to do what you love in this challenging yet super-exciting industry while working with your amazing team at Seychelles!

LOV E , Y O U R O L D E R Y O U

A walk on the wild side.

Come stalk the latest trends.

NEW YORK HILTON MIDTOWN & MEMBER SHOWROOMS OPEN ALL WEEK

REGISTER TO ATTEND AT FFANY.ORG

FFANY SHOES ON SALE GALA 2017 OCTOBER 10

#SHOES4ACURE

INFO & HOTEL RATES REGISTER AT FFANY.ORG @FFANYSHOESHOW FUTURE SHOW DATE: FEB 6 ! 8, 2018

W H AT’S SELLI N G

Comfort Specialty

I

M O N TA NO ’ S S H O E S Saugerties, NY

T’S NOT UNCOMMON for Edward Montano Jr. to fit a baby with its first pair of shoes while he or she sits on the lap of a parent also clad in one of the store’s wares. Founded in 1906, Montano’s Shoes is still a family business dedicated to the comfort of generations of its customers. Co-owned by the third generation Montano and his cousin Anthony, their nephew is the fifth and latest generation of Montano gaining experience on the sales floor.

While the Montanos may not have invented the traditional sit-and-fit store model, they certainly perfected it, catering to a customer base suffering from a variety of foot issues and those seeking everyday casual styles spanning toddlers (kid’s is a third of the business), professionals and old-timers. “We see all demographics—doctors, lawyers, people working for the municipal and highway departments,” Montano says, adding, “Saugerties has become a tourist town with weekenders from New York not used to seeing a store like ours anymore.” Montano’s is an old-fashioned, family shoe store that still measures and fits every customer who comes in, he says, adding “When people have foot pain, they come to us before they go to a doctor.”

Montano’s shelves are filled with styles from category stalwarts such as New Balance, Birkenstock, Red Wing, Ecco and Taos as well as orthotics

by Aetrex. A new 2,500-square-foot warehouse nearby ensures the shelves of the 8,000-square-foot store remain filled, and business is booming. At a time when many brick-and-mortar retailers are struggling, Montano credits its success—the store just completed its best year ever—to its philosophy of top-notch service and stocking quality brands at competitive prices. Some of the store’s knowledgeable staff boast more than 20 years experience working there, and as a pedorthist, Montano takes appointments to fit those with more serious issues. “Comfort is a growing part of the footwear business,” Montano says. “We have something for everybody and give service that has gone by the wayside in the industry these days.” -Aleda Johnson What are your top-selling brands? Red Wing, SAS and New Balance are generally in the top three every year. It’s been a little over a year since we’ve added Samuel Hubbard, and I think it’s the strongest new line in the industry.

For summer, Birkenstock has become popular again. It’s about comfort and somewhat about fashion. I even see 13-year-old girls asking for Birkenstocks.

What about popular accessories? It’s orthotics. We do custom orthotics, but Aetrex, an over-the-counter brand, is huge. When a customer wants something a little more than a good, comfortable shoe, they go to Aetrex. We

52 footwearplusmagazine.com • august 2017

carry about five different brands, but they offer the biggest variety of different types of orthotics and seem to be the more loyally followed. Nine out of 10 people come back for a pair of insoles every year.

How’s business been of late? This has been our best year ever. I think business is strong overall for independent shoe stores.

So the great retail shakeout isn’t impacting Montano’s? I’m aware of it, but for us it seems almost the opposite has happened. Business is stronger than ever. We sell very little footwear purchased online because our customers want to be hands-on, try on different styles and receive advice from knowledgeable salespeople. We offer something you can’t get on the Internet: service and knowledgeable advice that goes hand in hand.

What is the biggest challenge facing your business right now? Freight costs.

They’ve gone up dramatically. It’s hard to do special orders because the cost of freight is prohibitive. I’m sure it’s the same in every industry, but with dimensional freight, we have to stock more inventory and try to buy more things by the truckload.

We just have to buy smarter.

What is the smartest business decision you’ve made this year? I can’t say we’ve done anything different, but we’ve started carrying more inventory.

We’ve learned customers don’t want to wait. We can special order, but they don’t want to wait a week. You have to carry larger inventory, and we’ve increased it every year. We’ve made it our priority to always be in stock in key items in all sizes. We stock extra inventory in our warehouse, which is only a few blocks away. It’s a bigger up front investment, but having it on hand is better for our customers.

What is the secret to your store’s longevity? We’ve stayed true to our philosophy and our goals. We keep offering the same service from 50 years ago, and in some ways, we’ve changed a lot but in others, we’ve changed very little.

Our selection is enormous compared to 50 years ago, but our service and the way our customers are helped is the same.

How do you envision Montano’s Shoes in five years? We’ve managed to grow 3 to 5 percent every year for as long as I can remember, and our goal is to continue that and maintain our quality of service. We always toy with the possibility of a second location, but that would only happen if more family came into the business. We’re an old-fashioned, family shoe store with a lot of family members involved who are responsible for the success and growth of our company. It was true 100 years ago, and it’s still true today.

TWO TEN

The May Event Call or email the USRA office for Membership info or a May Event package * i\Ê­n£n®ÊÇäÎ ÈäÈÓÊÊÊUÊ > \Ê `>J1-, i° À}ÊÊUÊÜÜÜ°ÕÃÀ> i° À}

Ne w B e g i nnings Three veteran executives take the reins of three classic American brands, detailing their plans, outlining their unique strengths and defining why they are dream jobs.

BY GREG DUTTER

HERE ARE A FEW traits in common among the recently hired day-to-day managers of the Merrell, Timberland and Stride Rite brands. Of course, Sue Rechner, president of Merrell; Tracy Smith, vice president and general manager of Timberland’s North America division; and Brian McManus, executive vice president and general manager of Vida Kids’ new Stride Rite license, all have extensive experience managing brands. They’ve got the brand building basics down cold, having made their industry bones climbing various company ranks.

They’re also equally passionate about the footwear industry and the concept of not just moving merchandise, but being driven to build lifestyle brands that connect with their core consumers way beyond a simple transaction at a register. What’s more, these execs all respect the opportunity they’ve been awarded as stewards of three classic American brands in charge of taking them to greater heights.

Rechner, Smith and McManus each referred to their new positions as “dream jobs,” and while that may sound good for P.R. purposes, their enthusiasm is genuine. Let’s face it, the opportunity and the responsibility related to managing iconic brands such as Merrell, Timberland and Stride Rite aren’t offered to just anyone.

54 footwearplusmagazine.com • august 2017

Sue Rechner

MERRELL: MOVING FORWARD From a heritage perspective and with Wolverine Worldwide as its corporate parent, Rechner says Merrell already has a lot going for it, and that made the opportunity to become its president all the more enticing. “It’s an amazing and iconic brand, and there’s no doubt it has got tremendous brand equity,” she says.

“It’s a brand that I grew up with and one that’s loved and revered by many.”

But that’s not the only reason Rechner took the job. What sealed her decision was the entire team’s commitment— from corporate down to Merrell’s foot soldiers—to embrace change. “There’s an overwhelming desire to innovate, to invigorate the brand and to focus on consumers wholeheartedly,” she says, noting that over the past 24 months the industry has witnessed enormous disruption. It’s forcing many brands to look in the mirror and make changes. It’s just that Rechner believes some brands are willing while others dig their in heels and resist. “The openness and humility that the team has about where they are, where they need to be and the kind of people and talent they want in order to transform into the kind of brand they hope to become…It’s just so refreshing,” Rechner says.

Merrell’s commitment to change is part of a larger corporate-wide directive titled, The Wolverine Way Forward. The mission statement involves a corporate restructuring of its brand portfolio into three groups (Outdoor and Lifestyle, Boston and Heritage). The aim, according to CEO Blake Krueger, is to protect the brands through responsible stewardship and deliver growth by leveraging the focus on consumers, product innovation and speed, all while driving operational excellence and expanding operating margin.

In short, efficiency is critical and dialing in on the wants and needs of consumers—who call the shots now more than ever before—is even more so. Rechner, for

one, is fully on board for leading Merrell down this new path. “Amazon is changing the way we all look at businesses, and the way consumers make purchase decisions and how they access information,” she says.

“The fact that Blake & Co. have open minds about where they’ve got to pivot to is incredibly powerful. It gives us the opportunity to have a much more powerful future with our partners.”

Rechner, a veteran of the outdoor market but not specifically footwear, believes she’s the right woman for the job. “I understand how to nurture, evolve and innovate,” she says. “I like to curate and deepen relationships with core consumers, identify and reach new markets, and create and drive innovation on the product side, because that’s the center of gravity for any company: making amazing products.” Do all that well, and Rechner believes it’s a win for all parties: Merrell, retailers and consumers. “We have to figure out the right flex point where we all get what we need,” she adds. “Our retailers have to be profitable, just like we do.”

It starts with getting to know the core consumer. That rule applies whether you make kayaks (Rechner spent the previous 10 years as CEO of Confluence Outdoor) or hiking boots. “You have to know your core consumer and be able to speak with them as opposed to speak to them,” she says, noting that consumers today are looking for companies that have a value system that matches their own. “Identifying consumers is the Holy Grail, but you have to know how to find them and how they want to be communicated with,” she adds.

Rechner and the Merrell team have set forth big goals. “We want to become the undisputed owner of the hearts and minds of consumers and retailers as a brand, which is a heavy lift and a big ask,” she says.

“But we aim to do that through innovation, connecting on values and inspiring passion, and supporting memorable experiences.” Rechner adds that it requires the ability to reinvent and re-invigorate the brand so it stays current and connected to its customers. “If you cannot connect to the hearts and minds of consumers and retailers, you are not going to survive,” she says.

It’s a connection, in Merrell’s case, that must be made through its performance outdoor DNA. The brand won’t just do “fashion” items.

“We just have to be mindful of maintaining our performance DNA in everything we do,” Rechner says. “It may be a sandal, but it’ll feature a performance outsole—design aspects that extend what somebody on the trail would like to see, because we don’t want to lose those consumers.” That aside, Rechner believes there’s enormous opportunity for Merrell to grow its casual business, which, along with performance and athleisure segments, amounts to an estimated $26 billion in annual sales worldwide. She believes the brand has the elasticity, as its extensive market research shows. “We’ve got an open to listen from our consumers,” Rechner says. “We have the ability to play dual gender as well as to tap into a younger audience, and we can extend our brand into casual.” The driving force behind Merrell’s brand elasticity, she adds, stems from its reputation for making great products. “No matter what age, gender or income level, we make amazing product that performs,” she says, adding, “If we do what I believe we are capable of, leverage our equity and connect with our consumers, then we have the ability to grow exponentially.”

Last but not least, Rechner considers being president of Merrell a dream job. “It’s hard not to be excited about such an awesome brand with such amazing runway in a company that is looking to put investment behind it,” she says.

TIMBERLAND: PASSION PLAY Tracy Smith, newly anointed vice president and general manager of Timberland North America, has been around the proverbial footwear industry block a time or two. The former retail-turned-wholesale exec rose through the ranks at Cole Haan over an 18-year span, which culminated in becoming president. He later became president of U.S. operations for Geox, grooming him further for this position at Timberland. What’s more, Smith is a born-and-raised New Englander just like Timberland, the Stratham, NH-based division of VF Corp.

“Having spent a lot of time living in New England is definitely a bonus, but I’ve also been very fortunate throughout my career to have gained experience in lots of different areas of the business,” Smith says.

“This is an opportunity to use all those different areas of experience and impact the growth plans and strategies of Timberland.”

Smith arrived in May and has been getting up to speed on all things Timberland. For starters, he feels blessed to work with such a talented team already in place—many of whom have a long history with the brand. “It’s been amazing to be able to get that grounding and evolution of the brand over its life cycle,” he says. “They have phenomenal relationships and reputations in the industry, which is a very important aspect to being successful.” Smith has also been busy meeting with key accounts to get their assessment of where Timberland stands in this marketplace. “I’ve met with many accounts that I’ve known for a long time, which is great to get their Tracy Smith feedback about the brand and our potential opportunities going forward. And I’ve been meeting retail partners in channels (outdoor specialty) that I haven’t really worked with before, which has been very helpful and interesting.”

What exactly has Smith been hearing about Timberland in these meetings? First and foremost, he reports, is the resounding passion for the brand and the fact that retailers want and need it to be successful. “The support across a wide range of retailers who are looking to Timberland to be a strong partner with them as we all try to navigate the challenging environment is very encouraging,” he says.

Timberland possesses many of the brand qualities required to succeed in this difficult climate. A rich heritage, authentic products across a range of categories and iconic styles—what’s not to like? It sold Smith on the opportunity, especially its long history of introducing innovative products into the market. “Timberland was founded on innovation for the outdoors, which is an incredible story dating back to 1973,” Smith says. “Fast forward to today and the company is doing the same: We have incredible platforms based on innovation that are bringing the brand into a modern interpretation.” Making this even more promising, Smith notes that Timberland is currently a $1.8 billion global brand with a strong parent company that’s able to invest in and help it reach new heights. Beyond that, he cites the company’s exceptional corporate culture, which is led by its commit-

2017 august • footwearplusmagazine.com 55

ment to sustainability and community service. “Any one of those aspects alone would be a wonderful attribute for a company, but when you line them all up together, you see how Timberland is really unique in our industry,” Smith says.

The near-term plan, Smith says, is to build off Timberland’s innovative platforms and diversify the business. “It’s an unbelievable gift to have an iconic product like the six-inch yellow boot, but we need to concentrate on growing the platforms on top of that,” he says, adding that there’s plenty of avenues already in place. In men’s casual and sport leisure, that includes the SensorFlex comfort system (consisting primarily of a three-layer outsole that delivers support, cushioning and dynamic flex) and the Aerocore Energy System (led by an aerodynamic outsole that is lightweight and sneaker-esque). In addition, he says women’s presents a huge opportunity, noting that market research shows the brand has strong dual gender appeal. “The unaided brand awareness that we enjoy is fantastic,” he notes. “Consumers have an incredible affinity for the brand, which presents enormous opportunity.”

Timberland hits squarely on many coveted macro trends. American: check. Rich heritage: check. Wearable technology: check. Outdoor lifestyle: check. Urban crossover: check. Corporate responsibility: check.

Smith singles out Timberland’s commitment to sustainability and its performance heritage as having appeal with today’s consumers, especially Millennials. “Those are brand traits that consumers really value today,” he says. “I don’t think we’re in the Sex and the City days anymore where you’re using rent money to buy a bag or wearing four-inch heels

and suffering to look stylish.” The values consumers are embracing, Smith believes, point right back to Timberland. “It makes me feel like it’s Timberland’s time,” Smith says, adding that the brand is one retailers can depend on in the current disruptive climate. “Retailers are looking for brands that can be a strong partner and work closely with to navigate what we’re all going through,” he says. “VF Corp. has really stepped up and is looking to effectively drive those partnerships so that we all get through this together and in a mutually successful way.”

In the meantime, Smith plans to be a bit more vocal about Timberland’s goodwill attributes, which to date have been held under wraps somewhat due to what he describes as corporate humbleness. Social responsibility and sustainability attributes, however, are exactly the type consumers want to know about when making their brand choices, Smith believes.

“There’s an authenticity and purpose that underlies the great product Timberland makes and give us an opportunity to have a deeper connection with retailers and consumers alike,” he says. For example, Timberland is marking two important anniversaries this year: the 10th of its Earthkeepers eco-friendly collection and 25 years of corporate community service. “The fact that we’ve been involved in these causes for so many years shows the character of the brand and the people who work here,” Smith says.

Asked if this is a dream job, Smith responds: “Throw in all the terrific attributes of the company along with the opportunity, throw living in New England into the mix, and it’s like I haven’t slept in three months because I’m so excited about this job.”

STRIDE RITE: EMOTIONAL RESCUE Brian McManus, executive vice president and general manager of Vida Brands and overseer of its recently acquired Stride Rite license from Wolverine Worldwide, has come home—literally. This is the brand where the longtime children’s footwear expert got his industry start.

“When I was a 19, Stride Rite recruited me to work in their retail division,” McManus says. Part of the deal was the company helped pay for his college tuition. “I had to work 44 hours per week while taking five classes and, based on grades, Cs covered 70 percent of my tuition, Bs 80 percent and As 90 percent plus books. I had to get straight As, because I couldn’t afford college any other way.”

McManus did just that and his strong work ethic and smarts carried over into his job with Stride Rite. Over the ensuing nine years, he rose steadily from assistant store manager to manager through its merchandising program and eventually moved to the main office to become a regional merchandiser.

He graduated to buyer and later opened Stride Rite Keds and Great Feet stores. McManus also opened 21 outlet stores for the company and managed its traditional stores. After a brief stint with Kinney Shoes, McManus came back to Stride Rite to manage sales before he made the move to Vida Brands to launch Carter’s. Now, 17 years later, he’s right back where he started—third Brian McManus time’s the charm—and he couldn’t be happier.

“Stride Rite is my history, and its home to me,” McManus says. “It was the job that made me passionate about this industry and want to get out of bed every day.”

Stride Rite is not just any brand. Few are as iconic or rich in history as this one. “Stride Rite is a company that you always felt had a higher purpose,” McManus says. Soon to be celebrating its 100th anniversary (2019), the brand is the Kleenex of children’s footwear. It’s overall awareness, rich heritage and reputation for innovation is unsurpassed.

It’s also a brand that has served as a training ground for many current industry leaders, including ex-Stride Rite presidents Diane Sullivan (CEO of Caleres), Jon Caplan (CEO Genesco Branded Group), Meg Whitman (former eBay CEO) and Charlie Liberge (president of Jones &Vining). Esteemed company executives, indeed.

McManus is honored to follow in such footsteps and guide Stride Rite into a new era. It’s a unique opportunity to manage a brand with such a storied history in terms of product innovation and consumer following. “Stride Rite is built on an emotional connection with consumers,” he says. McManus paints the frequent in-store scene of a young child being fitted for their first pair with the grandmother on-hand explaining to the mother why this is so important. “It’s the coolest experience,” he says, noting that it’s also an important one.

“It’s a big responsibility to measure a child’s foot and make sure the shoes will fit properly. Having done that well for so long is what has built trust between Stride Rite and consumers.”

Building on that level of largely in-store achieved trust as online shopping continues to gain market share is one of the challenges facing McManus. Specifically, how to change with the times but not lose that emotional connection. That applies particularly to Millennial parents, many of whom need to be re-connected to Stride Rite. “The challenge

BORN IN CALIFORNIA

VIEW THE SPRING 2018 COLLECTIONS AT MAGIC

SEYCHELLESFOOTWEAR.COM BCFOOTWEAR.COM

for us is how do we make Millennials and beyond have that first experience,” McManus says. “We have to reconnect them to the brand so we make sure they buy it for their grandchildren.”

It starts with embracing what the brand represents, which is a Vida Brands mantra for every brand in its stable of children’s brands. In addition to Carter’s, that includes OshKosh B’gosh, Hanna Andersson, JambuKD, Step & Stride and Kensie, among others. The company knows the kid’s business inside and out. It’s no accident that Wolverine Worldwide chose Vida Brands from a list of suitors who coveted the Stride Rite license.

The company’s track record of building big kid’s brands is proof. “Carter’s is all about the emotional connection to the consumer, and we’ve grown that business tremendously,” McManus says, noting a similar growth trajectory with OshKosh. “We embraced what the brands represent and have established a relationship with the respective end consumers that are based on emotion.”

Fortunately for Stride Right, there’s a strong emotional connection in place and, what’s more, Wolverine spent the past 18 months cleaning up distribution and introducing new products. McManus notes that the brand had issues with promotional activity in stores and online.

“Wolverine has really cleaned that up, so I think we are catching this brand off a bounce,” he says, noting the product upgrades can be found in the Spring ’18 collection. “It’s now different products across distribution points like Target, Khol’s and Dillard’s,” he says, adding that Vida will expand upon this strategy for Fall ’18, which will mark its first Stride Rite collection. In the meantime, he says, the company

footwear plus half page.pdf 7/17/2017 4:29:20 PM

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

remains in intense listening mode. “We need to listen to our retailers and to Wolverine to see what they’re happy and not happy about before we go marching in with new products,” he says, adding, “We are a solution-based company, and you can’t answer a question if you don’t know what it is. It’s solving mom’s and our retailers’ problems and learning how to work with them better.”

Solve those problems, and Stride Rite has a huge runway for growth, McManus believes. “I think the sky’s the limit,” he says. “With the tremendous emotional connection Stride Rite already has, we believe we can grow two to three times as it is today. We just need to introduce more people to it.” He believes that Stride Rite has elasticity—similar to Nike—to play across many tiers of distribution at their respective premium price levels. “We’re at the premium price point in Target, where Millennial moms like to shop, as well as in Kohl’s, Rack Room and Famous Footwear—like Nike is,” McManus says. “We have that same ability, because consumers trust the brand and know we’re going to live up to the promise inside each respective channel of distribution to offer the best technologies, materials and designs.”

For McManus, the opportunity to manage Stride Rite is a dream job on many levels. It’s a homecoming, career-wise. It’s the brand he always outfitted his three children in (much to the dismay of his previous designers.) It’s a brand with a storied history that he is humbled by.

“The job means everything to me,” McManus says. “Not a lot of brands make it to 100 years old, so I’m super-humbled to be a part of this great brand and working on ways to make it live for 100 more years.” •

kids’ preview

SPRING 2018

GROWING UP Brands embrace a mature aesthetic for spring, although kitschy details remain part of the mix for their too-cute factor.

B Y E M I LY B E C K M A N

K

IDS TODAY ARE dialed into social media.

They know what’s hot, what’s not, what to wear, where to get it—they are literally wired into the latest trends. Such instantaneous 24-7 access extends to an awareness of what the big kids (i.e. adults) are wearing and, not surprisingly, their desire to want to dress the part. What little girl or guy wouldn’t want to rock the same looks as Rihanna and Jay Z? And kids’ designers are right in step for Spring ’18 with collections that are more reflective of adult trends in terms of silhouettes, materials and colors. “Innovations and the effect of technology are the root of many trends,” confirms Heather Dady, design director of Western Chief Kids.

It’s a noticeably subdued offering overall for next spring, featuring plenty of sleek shapes, notes of nostalgia, gender-neutral designs and earthy hues and materials. “There’s an organic influence for Spring ’18,

Tsukihoshi

Pediped

showing lots of linens, creamy colors and more of an overall natural aesthetic,” says Jenevieve Froncek, director of product development for Pediped, adding, “Expect to see a lot of simple color combinations and embellishments without all the bells and whistles.”

Of course, there are still some kid-appropriate touches to be found, which come in the form of over-the-top glitter treatments, emoji decals and character themes. Ironically, this, too, is in line with the adult trends as kitschy elements (cactuses and tacos from Kate Spade and pompoms and faces by Gucci) are trending strongly. “We saw a great opportunity to do some ‘Mommy and Me’ takedowns from our bestselling women’s styles, including the cactus and gum espadrilles,” says Tara Sabourin, North America general manager for Emu Australia. Likewise, quirky characters, humorous verbiage and trendy fruits are just some of the eye-catching elements of kids’ styles this coming season that will be sure to generate a double tap by friends on Instagram.

Gender Bender The children’s market has witnessed a growing opposition to gender-specific designs and labels over the past few seasons.

Toy stores, for example, have revoked binary labels and pink girls’ apparel feature graphics of trucks and sports motifs. As to whether the latter constitutes an example of being “gender fluid” is open for debate, but the mindset is that if kids (or parents) want to blur the lines on traditional gender color palettes, materials and even silhouettes, it’s their right.

The shift, in turn, has caused brands to aim for a safer middle ground of unisex-driven colors and styles, which presents a win-win for retailers as they can sell the same style to both genders.

Timberland’s water-friendly, two-strap Adventure Seeker sandal, for example, is in step with the unisex trend. Generically labeled under “kids” in the brand’s look book, the sandal is made from a lightweight material with an EVA footbed and 15-percent recycled rubber outsole

in a poppy neutral blue colorway.

Merrell’s kids’ collection also offers shades of blue, orange, gray and lime suitable for either gender. Same goes for Tsukihoshi: the Japanese brand is promoting a new knit-upper sneaker in a variety of colorways, showcasing a lime and gray option that satisfies unisex style-seeking consumers.

For retailers testing this gender-neutral market, experts advise that shades of blue (sky to navy) are a safe bet. “Previously, I would avoid using anything that was in the sky blues because it was too feminine for boys and too masculine for girls,” says Froncek of Pediped.

“However, in the past two seasons, that has drastically changed.” She reports sky blue to now be one of the brand’s top five colors in boys and girls, from baby to youth sizes. “We went from shying away from sky blue to now having to worry if we have enough,” she says, noting, “It all comes down to listening to customers and giving them what they want.”

august 2017 • footwearplusmagazine.com 59

kids’ preview

SPRING 2018

Laura Ashley Stride Rite

Feminine Touch This gender-specific, delicate approach to design includes a washed-out color palette of pastels and feminine embellishments like lush satin and bow treatments. It’s a more sophisticated turn for little ladies who lunch.

Luis Gonzalez, design director at Vida Shoes, says Spring ’18 styles will not be as vibrant or electric as past seasons. “Color is more faded and probably will continue in the direction of a more pastel palette in future seasons,” he says.

To top off the dainty color spectrum, David Kern, vice president of product and design at BBC Intl., says it’s best to put a bow on it. “If there’s one thing that’s really doing well for us, it’s oversized bows,” he reports. “That’s been a standout.” In addition, Kern says that the introduction of the block-heel sandal appears to be a popular, more mature-looking silhouette for tweens. “She had been restricted to a wedge or a platform,” Kern says, noting the collection has been expanded for this season. “We are finally giving her a nice alternative,“ he adds.

Other feminine touches to be on the lookout for this spring include ruffles, charms, tassels, pompoms and a palette of pink (the new neutral) that spans rose gold to fuchsia.

Jambu KD

Red, White & True Kids can pledge allegiance in panels, blocks and stripes of red, white and blue. Coming off of an election year, patriotic themes are still trending strong.

Kern notes the trend is right in step with BBC’s Polo license. “We are having a very nice time as the Americana vibe has become so important,” he says, noting that the simple yet fashionable statement of those colors should be an easy sell for next spring. Polo’s Nalia flat, for example, bursts with patriotism, showcasing a white canvas body with navy and red accents and gold hardware to top it off.

Many brand execs agree that the Americana trend plays particularly well in the athleisure segment that’s going strong in the adult market.

Sporty silhouettes and materials lend themselves well to bold colors. Think classic American brands such as Converse, Vans, Skechers and New Balance as well as Euro-based leaders Puma and Adidas.

Polo

Joseph Allen

Kitsch Up In an Instagram-worthy world, noveltythemed items are an increasingly popular draw. From something as subtle as a trendy fruit or dessert motif to froufrou pompoms and animal faces, designers are using their imagination to add an element of post-worthy kitsch to their designs.

“We’ve been seeing a focus on humor and O.T.T. (over the top) embellishment,” says Sara Louise Petty, trend director of Nina Footwear. “These trends originated from the women’s runways with labels such as Gucci and Anya Hindmarch showing outrageously fun styles with very over-the-top decoration.” Petty expects the trend to be a big hit. “I mean, what girl doesn’t adore fun shoes?” she says.

Look for lots of playful embellishments and left/ right stories, like the one depicted on Nine West Kids’ “Edinah” crib shoe. The style’s sleek uppers sport a self-adjusting band across the top for secure fit, featuring “LOL!” and “XOXO” verbiage in two

colorways (pink and white). Popular novelty treatments also include dinosaur and shark motifs for boys and flowers and butterflies for girls—not to mention light-up styles. Stride Rite, for example, offers the “Vroomz police cruiser” for boys (a light-up sneaker that resembles a police car and illuminates with every step) and an allover donut-print sneaker with a light-up sole for girls.

Keds is also offering sweet treat prints for spring such as donuts, cupcakes and sprinkles in crib to youth sizes. For boys, the brand’s minimalistic yet cheeky baseball-inspired design of red stitching on the shoe’s white upper is paired with a memory foam footbed and easy hook-and-loop closure.

“I definitely think cute recognizable motifs are a great way to catch a bit more attention,” Pediped’s Froncek says. “It’s important to keep a balance between easily wearable core colorways with the occasional pops of kitschy for accelerated fun and interest.”

Western Chief

Splash Zone Athleisure and versatility continue to be major product themes with parents looking for more features and benefits—particularly the perk of easy cleanup during messy summer months.

“Kids are going to want to play and get their feet wet,” says Naly Lee, design director at Vida Shoes, noting that a balance of functionality and style is key. For the company’s new Stride Rite license, it comes in the versatility of lighted Made2Play Phibian sneaker-sandal hybrids that feature easily adjustable closures and slip-resistant soles that grip surfaces from pool decks to playgrounds. Vida’s Jambu KD brand is also joining in on the water-ready trend with a sneaker that includes machinewashable custom-knit mesh uppers.

Dady says the waterproof hybrid products is an important growth category for Western Chief Kids. “Moms are still trying to stretch the dollar, so they are naturally attracted to a style that’s both a play and a water shoe,” she says. Known for its trend-right rain boots, Western Chief will introduce a new collection of sandals for Spring ’18. The line is built around the motto “wash, wear, play,” facilitating kids’ adventures through summer sprinklers and mud puddles.

Nine West Kids

Kensie Girl

The Coachella Effect Drawing on bohemian and Americana influences, organic and earthy boho-chic styles (sandals, mocassins and western ankle boots) feature plenty of embroidery detailing and patterned cutouts in neutral hues. Shades of tan, beige, cream, brown, olive and navy in natural materials like denim, canvas and suede present a sophisticated organic look that pairs well with dresses, jeans and shorts. The ’70s-era look is topped off with laser cutouts, embroidery treatments and tassel and fringe details.

Bearpaw’s new Kahala sandal, for example, features a wide forefoot strap with multi-color details and jute braid trims along the outsole edge, while its

Bearpaw

Jane sandal comes in a soft faux leather upper (available in pewter or dark brown) and includes floral-inspired cutouts and a studded trim along the blown rubber outsole.

A neutral, earthy palette can be found in Pediped’s new Mary Janes collection built on a street sole. “It’s a more modern look combined with that organic influence,” says Froncek, citing a creamy linen style with a sparkle stripe as a standout. “It’s all about subdued colors with high-end details and touches,” she says, adding, “I definitely see a more mature look evolving in children’s, although you are always going to have your sparkles that sell very well.”

Rugged Bear

Nina

Anchors Aweigh A nautical story in the form of sailor stripes, anchor motifs, ocean blues and greens, and studded embellishments on sandals and slip-ons is another trend looking to come ashore next spring.

Plae is incorporating deep sea blues and purples, leopard eel prints and wave-like textures as part of its “Ocean Planet” collection. Emu Australia is introducing a collection inspired by the Great Barrier Reef, featuring pops of colors, light metallics and fun coral prints across a variety of sandal and closed-toe styles.

Nina Footwear’s Petty says “no summer collection is complete without some kind of tropical story.” In addition to its nautical collection, “Mariner,” the brand will launch “Island Retreat,” a whimsy, vacation-ready collection of sandals and slides featuring tropical details like raffia, pineapple icons, palm trees and pompoms reminiscent of a summer in Havana.

Hannah

Flexible. Lightweight. Comfort.

With removable footbed.

SEE OUR SPRING 2018 COLLECTION FN Platform Booth #82452 Atlanta Shoe Market Booth # 1204 / 1206

B O L D PA T T E R N S ,

UNEXPECTED MATERIALS, COLOR POPS AND

HYBRID SILHOUETTES: THE CLASSIC DECK SHOE

IS REINVENTED. P H O T O G R AP H Y S T Y L I N G

B Y

K AT I E

Reef 62

B Y

B E L L O F F

T R E V E T T

M C C A N D L I S S

Ben Sherman hybrid espadrille boat shoes, IZIPIZI sunglasses, Life After Denim short-sleeved button-down and chino shorts.

Timberland

Sebago

64

Rubber soled deck shoes by Twisted X, Grayers chino shorts and striped pull-over sweater.

Durango boat shoes with tooled leather vamp, IZIPIZI glasses, Selected/Homme Heritage printed button-up, Richer Poorer sweater, Devereux chino pants.

Rockport

Swims nylon boat mocs, IZIPIZI sunglasses, David Hart printed button-down, Grayers crew neck sweater and khaki pants.

Geox

Grooming: Christina Nicole Errante Model: Jon M./Major Model Mgmt.

65

Dansko clogs with equestrian buckle detail, vintage jeans and T-shirts, H&M headwrap.

67

68

Twisted X sneaker moccasins, Frenchi sweater, vintage macrame bodysuit and earrings. Painting by Andrew Schwartz.

Opposite: Gladiator sandals by Rockport, Free People two-piece suit, Anthropologie earrings.

69

Naot side zipper ankle boots, Southpaw Vintage black lace dress, H&M undergarments and jewelry.

70

71

Pull-on ankle boot by Musse & Cloud. Opposite: Diba True stacked heel ankle boots, Free People jumpsuit and tie-up shirt, Anthropologie earrings. Paintings by Andrew Schwartz.

73

Clockwise, from top right: Mule by Seven Dials, Minnetonka mules with decorative buckles, Taos cork wedge sandal, ankle bootie by Cat. Opposite: Mou clogs, dress by Native youth, Richer Poorer hosiery, Anthropologie earrings. Paintings by Trevett McCandliss.

Hair and makeup: Dawn Brocco/Next Artists; models: Tayla and Stephen/Fenton Model Mgmt.

74

75

EDITOR’S PICKS

Rockport

D E S I G N E R C H AT

SOME PEOPLE ARE born to work in the shoe business. That is especially the case with Kai Harrison, whose parents, Mickey and Reneé, launched J. Reneé in 1979. Harrison spent his childhood summers working in the warehouse and suspected he would follow into the family business full-time, which is what he initially set out to do by earning a business degree. But it wasn’t until graduation when Harrison discovered his love of design that led him to enroll in Italy’s Arsutoria School to learn pattern making followed by a year honing his skills under the tutelage of designers at Sergio Rossi.

Flash forward 28 years, and Harrison has built a solid following for his timeless women’s dress styles. It’s a combination of bold style and flair that aims to make every day an occasion. “I’ve always tried to design shoes that are forever,” he says. “We do a lot of detailed shoes with exciting materials and ornaments, but we also do a lot of very classic and sophisticated pumps and open toes.” It’s a design philosophy instilled in him originally by his mother: classic looks and high quality materials so customers get more value as opposed to trendy styles suitable for only a season.

Take the design inspiration for Spring ’18, for example. It’s down to earth—literally. Plenty of natural materials, including raffia, wood, cork, linen and denim appear throughout the collection and are paired with opaque metallics, exotic prints, vibrant colors and pastels in J. Reneé’s signature pumps, many of which feature square toes that are expected to make a resurgence this season. Harrison describes the styles as “future vintage looks” that are not throwaway fashions. “There are trends in the line, but I don’t like to make something so trendy a customer has to ask if she can wear it the next year,” he says. —Aleda Johnson What is the overall goal of your Spring ’18 collection? I wanted a line that could travel and have that destination feel. The shoes are dressy but also versatile. They transition from day to night, so the outfit can change but the shoe doesn’t have to. Denim and cork can be elegant and sophisticated but still raw and wearable.

Natural materials can still be very polished, like a marble finish on 76 footwearplusmagazine.com • august 2017

Badgley Mischka

Bella-Vita

ON THE FRINGE Delicate frayed edges offer that subtle shimmy.

a heel that makes it a forever piece instead of over doing it.

What are your signature design traits?

It all starts with balance. I try to design forever looks that are classy and sophisticated. I wasn’t formally trained in footwear design, and neither was my mother.

It’s been a blessing and a curse. On the plus side, it didn’t define how I look at design.

Learning under my mother, it was as much about instinct as it was about the process.

It’s very similar on the Italian side, where design is a lot about feeling and emotion.

Any trends that need to go? I don’t think there’s any that have to go. I believe everyone has a right to choose what they want to wear. It’s fun to make your own choices.

Where do you love to shop? London is my favorite place. The city still has lots of independent stores, and you always find new things.

Which shoes in your closet are getting the most wear? A United Nude hybrid shoe/sneaker. I’m making people sick with how much I wear it.

What do you love most about your job?

The relationships I have with our factories, suppliers and buyers. Secondly, that I wake up every day and get to color.

What might you be doing if you weren’t designing shoes? I’d open a small leather studio, where I’d sit and make leather products all day.

E D I TO R ’ S P I C K S P H OTO G R A P H Y BY J O S E P H P LU C H I N O

KAI HARRISON

O&A continued from page 19 say, “Wow!” It’s taken over a year, and it’s been daunting because you have to make them in a range of patterns, silhouettes and heel heights. We don’t always get it perfect right away. We’ve had shoes where we changed the last three times. We’d get 1,000 pair into the market and then decide we could do better. It’s like a running trial. First, we try it on 10 people, then 1,000 as we keep trying to get to a perfect-fitting last.

Do you plan to keep production in Portugal for the foreseeable future?

Yes. The Chinese make a fine shoe, but for some reason when you take them out of the box they smell like Saran Wrap. A European-made shoe has that fantastic, genuine leather smell. It’s also just how I prefer to make shoes. I know a lot of brands are about volume and pricing. In fact, it wasn’t until I came back to the business that I learned a new manufacturing term: de-specifying, which basically knocks out features and benefits to make it for less. I just believe a lot of consumers don’t want to buy that type of product. They can feel, smell and appreciate our difference—and they are willing to pay more for it. Besides, what’s the difference between our shoes and a $160 pair from another brand? It’s like the cost of two Chardonnays.

Is that such a big deal when it’s something that you wear every day and makes you feel and look good?

Any advantages to being privately owned in this industry climate?

Public is good if you are on a great growth ramp and if you need capital. But a lot of businesses have died from indigestion—too much capital—rather than starvation. How many dot-com businesses had no conception of trying to make a profit and were over-capitalized? So far, we haven’t needed more capital. Now if we wanted to open 100 stores, we would. But we have no plans to open stores. I’ve no experience being a retailer and that would present a whole different set of problems. I’m also keen to explore the hybrid model where we partner with existing retailers, like creating shop-in-shop programs. I’m concerned about many of these retailers because we need good partners with these points of presentation.

Is the state of retail as bad as it’s reported to be?

I do think a lot of retailers are in serious trouble. You can go to Amazon and just click and buy and you don’t have to drive and park. Why bother? But when people take the time to make the store an experience, the salespeople are informed, the atmosphere is nice and they make you feel that it’s nice to buy something…then I think you can still be successful. There’s a wonderful men’s clothing shop in San Francisco, The Hound, located in the Financial District. The owner put three barber chairs in the back of the store and gives haircuts. Men are coming in all day for the cut and while they walk through they pick up a shirt and/or shoes. It helps drive traffic. I thought our shoes would be perfect for that store and now he’s selling like 500 pairs a year. I believe retailers who think like that will have a place and those who think that they are going to buy the same ol’, same ol’ and put it on a dusty shelf and wonder why business isn’t better are probably going to go away.

Thinking outside the box, going the extra mile...it’s the only way to compete in the age of Amazon.

I agree. Last fall we sent out a mail order catalog, but a couple of styles didn’t make it into production in time. I knew we would get at least a few requests for shoes we wouldn’t have in stock, so we created a waitlist.

The waitlist grew to more than 4,000 names, of which about 1,200 might have had to wait five or six weeks. I was worried we would lose the orders and someone on our team suggested we send them a letter and include a discount coupon. Well, one aspect of my religion is we don’t give >79

U P C L O S E C O M F O RT

Homegrown Mission Tidal New York f lip-f lops: made in America by American veterans.

An Eco Twist Twisted X to launch casual collection made from recycled water bottles.

TWISTED X, known for its “cowboy comfort” styles, marked its latest product launch by planting a tree at its headquarters in Decatur, TX. It was a symbolic gesture on many levels as the new eco-friendly collection—the uppers are made out of recycled water bottles—is part of a broader effort to grow its customer base among consumers and retailers.

“We believe we can reach more Millennial-age audiences because they are extremely into products that serve a purpose,” says Amber Vanwy, director of marketing. “We also think it will be successful in our current channels and having this kind of ecological aspect will get us into some channels that we’re not in, namely outdoor.”

Initially, Twisted X planned on introducing the collection in Spring ’18, but the company sped its development cycle up and will have the line available for delivery this fall. Featured styles include slip-ons, boat shoes, chukkas, flip-flops and a boat shoeinspired lace-up. The closed styles feature a dual-density midsole and rubber outsole, allowing the brand to stick to its commitment to comfort.

Suggested retail price range for the collection is $69.99 to $100.

To help promote the new collection, Twisted X plans to plant a tree for each shoe sold. To incentivize retailers to add the line, it will present each seller with a tree of its own to plant. Beyond that, Vanwy believes the shoes will do much of the selling. She reports that while the uppers are made of plastic trash, the material looks and feels like canvas. “The fact that our factory partner could do different designs with the material and that it really doesn’t look plastic-y sold us on the potential,” Vanwy says, adding the array of colors they are able to feature sealed the deal.

For the initial launch, Vanwy says the company expects to recycle 13,000 used water bottles. In the long term, Twisted X’s goal is to repurpose 13 million bottles and plant 1 million trees.

“We believe the concept is supercool, and then the marketing package of planting a tree for each pair sold followed,” Vanwy says. “Not only are we helping clean up the environment, we’re also helping repopulate the tree population.” —Jashvina Shah

78 footwearplusmagazine.com • august 2017

BROTHERS TIM AND Tom Gibbs set out on a mission in 2015 when they founded Tidal New York, a maker of flip-flops based in New Rochelle, NY. The brothers wanted to prove shoes can be manufactured in the U.S.— affordably.

Using innovative printing technology and a mold to create the flip-flops allows Tidal New York to produce less emissions and make more product with less labor. The patented printing process transfers prints onto flip flops digitally, not only allowing to print on flip flops with arcs, but also cutting down on the bulky, extra equipment and need for labor. This process produces lower minimums and can also allow for custom designs in the future.

“That’s really the secret sauce: all that innovation allows us to do this in a way that we don’t have to throw labor at it the way that other countries are,” Tim Gibbs says. “We’re doing it by working smarter and by innovating.”

Manufacturing in the U.S. has some additional advantages, according to Gibbs. Tidal New York has shorter lead times, all materials are sourced domestically (cutting down on emissions) and Gibbs believes the U.S. has the best workforce for today’s modern factories. “We have the best labor force out there because we have a hugely educated one,” he says, noting that these jobs aren’t just banging hammers anymore.

“They’re intuitive, intellectual jobs so we have the right labor force for the factories of the future,” Gibbs adds. “We just have to admit to ourselves, as a country, that the factories of yesteryear aren’t the factories of the future.”

Gibbs believes the country also needs to admit that it must do better when it comes to employing veterans. Tidal New York, for its part, currently employs five and will be adding a sixth soon, making veterans more than half of its workforce. “It’s something we all agree on as a country, but we’re failing at it,” he says. “We promise jobs, but we don’t give them when they come back.” Gibbs believes that veterans have a great work ethic, drive and skill set. “We’re underutilizing them as a country and it’s just a shame, because we’re not leveraging such a strong asset and we’re not fulfilling a promise that we said we would when they enlisted.”

Gibbs says Tidal New York is focused on building a national brand.

It has partnerships with Lord & Taylor and J. Crew among others.

He believes its flip-flops offer a distinct point of difference, thanks to its custom-made, low-density polyurethane footbeds, whereas other flip-flops commonly feature EVA. The material has a higher compression set and offers more rebound than EVA, he notes. The custom molding process also allows the company to incorporate an 8-milimeter arch for added support and comfort. Suggested retail pricing is $26-$28. —J.S.

O&A continued from page 77 discount coupons or put shoes on sale. Then I thought of Harry & David and decided to send them a note apologizing for the delay and, in the meantime, here’s a gift basket. We ended up buying 1,000 Harry & David fruit and cheese baskets. Instead of giving a discount, we gave them a gift in advance of purchase. Now I never checked to see how many of those customers ultimately bought a pair of shoes, but I think it was a pretty high percentage. It’s that kind of approach we take to the business in terms of taking care of people, and our retailers can do the same.

At the same time, you adhere to a lot of old-school business basics.

Absolutely. We call on stores, we do training and trunk shows and we take people to lunch. We take care of our retail partners, so we’re old-fashioned that way. Our reps are in-house and they are on commission, and we pay all their travel expenses—we’re old-fashioned that way, too. A lot of people coming out of business school were taught that it’s all about market share, price and the need to grow fast. But they’ve lost the fact that this used to be a people business. It was all about relationships and trust. We worked together and told each other when things weren’t working well.

feet loWOLKY ve Insight 00667 Electra

Now it’s lots of ultimatums and threats. It seems like the divide between retailers and wholesalers has never been greater.

Yes. I remember giving a speech at Rockport at a point when we were doing very well and I said, “You sow the seeds of your failure in the height of your greatest success.” I reminded everyone that when we started we were on our hands and knees begging for an order and a chance. Now there’s a certain moment where your shoes are doing so well that the merchants need you, but that’s the point when you have to be most humble. The retailer wants to feel like they are the buyer, and it’s their decision. Once you start giving demands, minimums, rules…It’s just so arrogant that the merchants resent you and are waiting for you to fail.

Yet brands still do it.

Why does arrogance come with wealth? Because you think you are the king of the world. You can’t come into the booth unless you have an appointment.

We aren’t opening any new accounts. On it goes. I am completely in the other direction. No discounts, no special deals, no pre-show extra margins.

I just sell the shoes and that’s it. But we try to be nice to our partners and make sure that we can both make money. It’s just old-fashioned. I mean, I’d rather send fruit baskets as gifts.

SPRING SUMMER 2018

What does your daughter think of you being a shoe executive again?

She’s 13 now and living in her own world. I said you wanted a shoe company and now we have one. “Ok, Dad, you do that.” I’m not sure she’ll ever join the company, but what’s really satisfying is to have taken my grandfather’s name and his factory’s name and turned them into a brand. It’s been fun and it almost brings me to tears. It’s like going back to the future and rewriting history, making Hubbard a brand that it never was.

What do you love most about your job?

I love just creating the whole thing. I also love the reviews we receive, which are often funny and endearing comments from customers having a love affair with our shoes. I had that experience once before with Rockport.

While people wrote letters about how they liked the philosophical concept of my Republic of Tea venture, very few people get to make a product that people have a strong personal reaction to. Would it ever occur to you to write to the maker of a toaster about how the toast is exceptional? There’s just a lot of stuff that gets made that people have no attachment to, so it’s very satisfying to make a product that people love so much that they take the time to write about it. •

Please join us at: Platform Las Vegas | Booth 81666 Project Tents Las Vegas | Booth 28290 Atlanta Shoe Market | Booth 1818 Tru San Francisco | Room 420 FOR APPOINTMENTS CONTACT: SALES.USA@SWIMS.COM swims.com

LAST SHOT

How the West is Worn

True Grip S n e a k e r s l i p - o n s m e e t We s t e r n details in a mashup made for urban cowboys and cowgirls, alike.

Photography by Joseph Pluchino Slip-on sneakers by Durango and Twisted X.

80 footwearplusmagazine.com • august 2017

BY EASY STREET S LI

OI

L

-R

N

T

R E S I S TA

NT

P-

®

E S I S TA

“APPRECIATE” 35 SIZES & 3 WIDTHS (OPEN-STOCK & IN-STOCK)

R E TC H ST

FOR FIT & COMFORT

SLIP-RESISTANT ANTI-FATIGUE OUTSOLE

1-800-826-6430

ENHANCED WITH THE EXCLUSIVE

EASYMOTION PRO-COMFORT SYSTEM®