Footwear Plus | August 2018 by Wainscot Media

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AU G U S T 2 01 8 On the cover: Dr. Martens

derbys, Cynthia Rowley top, Pinko dress, earrings by Shiny Squirrel. This page, clockwide from top:

Rollingsoft by Gabor perf sandal, Seychelles scalloped pump, espadrille wedge by Restricted.

Photography: Jamie Isaia; styling: Dani Morales; hair and makeup: Christina Nicole Errante; model: Ada/Red Model Mgmt.

Caroline Diaco President/Group Publisher Greg Dutter Editorial Director Nancy Campbell Trevett McCandliss Creative Directors EDITORIAL Aleda Johnson Assistant Editor Emily Beckman Assistant Editor Kathy Passero Editor at Large Kirstin Koba Contributing Editor Melodie Jeng Marcy Swingle Contributing Photographers ADVERTISING/ PRODUCTION Jennifer Craig Associate Publisher Laurie Guptil Production Manager Bruce Sprague Circulation Director Mike Hoff Digital Director Ana Novikova Office Administration

PA G E

9THREADS CORPORATE Xen Zapis Founder 1926-2018 Lee Zapis CEO

D E PA RT M E N T S

F E AT U R E S 12 The Right Fit James Rowley, CEO of Mephisto USA, on making the classic French comfort brand matter again in America. By Greg Dutter 18 Trend Spotting A rundown of key colors, silhouettes, materials and embellishments for Spring ’19. By Aleda Johnson 46 Pass It On Thinking of handing your business down to the next generation? Read this first. By Kathy Passero

54 Eclectic Essentials Our kids’ preview spans whimsy to empowering and everything in between. By Emily Beckman 58 Jump Start Move over, dad shoes. Spring kicks get sleek and sophisticated. By Aleda Johnson 62 Pastels in Paradise Sweet, dreamy shades evoke an otherworldly place. By Aleda Johnson

Rich Bongorno Chief Financial Officer Debbie Grim Controller OFFICES

8 Editor’s Note 10 This Just In 50 A Note to My Younger Self 52 What’s Selling 72 Shoe Salon 74 Upclose Comfort 76 This Just In 80 Last Word

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FOOTWEAR PLUS ™ (ISSN#1054-898X) The fashion magazine of the footwear industry is published monthly (except for bimonthly April/May and October/November editions) by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, 214 W. 39th St., Suite 205., New York, NY, 10018. The publishers of this magazine do not accept responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage is paid in New York, NY, and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: $48.00 in the U.S. Rates oustide the U.S. are available upon request. Single copy price: $10.00. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to FOOTWEAR PLUS, P.O. Box 8548, Lowell, MA 01853-8548. Publisher not responsible for unsolicited articles or photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender. Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. No portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. ©2008 by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC. Printed in the United States.

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E D ITOR ’S NOT E

The Great Cleanse

Onward and Upward HAVING COVERED THE shoe business for a quarter century, reporting on what seems like countless stores, formats, brands, concepts, trends, players, firsts, lasts, revivals, etc., perhaps it was inevitable that we’d come across a store that we just had to feature—the brilliantly named Footwear Plus in Roxboro, NC. (What’s Selling, p. 52) The work and western wear specialty store’s roots date all the way back to 1946, when Charlie Chambers opened the then country store C.W. Chambers. Fortyone years later, the Chambers family opened the spinoff Footwear Plus. The founder’s son, Mike Chambers, has been in charge pretty much since day one. Much of what has helped make Footwear Plus a long-running success remains firmly in place: a friendly and knowledgeable staff backed by a quality selection. Chambers likes to say Footwear Plus is a family-owned business that caters primarily to people working hard to support their families. Most of the items the store sells help customers get the jobs done. As such, Chambers believes there’s a symbiotic relationship between the store and its customers. Still, this is retail and there are no free passes. Like any good retailer, Chambers has continually found ways to adapt and survive, having acquired two mobile trailers in 2006 (he recently added a third) to bring Footwear Plus to the doorstep of area factories. Chambers has always heeded the Golden Retail Rule espoused by his father: “Either you grow or your competition grows.” Footwear Plus is but one brick-and-mortar-based business that is incorporating out-of-the-box ways (literally) to reach customers. That’s imperative today, with shoppers less likely to venture into stores in the online age. Convenience isn’t the only factor contributing to this seismic shift in shopping habits. A perfect storm of overexpansion, a macro change in consumer priorities and the rise of the sharing economy has turned the retail industry on end. Making matters even more difficult, expectations for availability, immediacy and price have never been higher. Amazon is the Pandora’s box of retail. The online behemoth, run by the world’s richest man (current net worth estimated at $141 billion), hasn’t rewritten the playbook; it has incinerated it. Every other retailer has to adapt to this new world order or they will likely die—as many already have. Fortunately, necessity is the mother of invention, and noteworthy

adaptation efforts are cropping up that take an unconventional approach to established retail practices. Nordstrom, for example, continues to expand upon its Local concept, a smaller format that doesn’t offer merchandise for sale. Shoppers can try on clothes, meet with a stylist and then make orders online to be delivered to the store the same day. The 3,000-square-foot stores (a typical Nordstrom is 140,000 square feet) also offer on-site tailoring. There are three such outlets in the Los Angeles area and more are being planned for select cities around the country. Also new to the brick-and-mortar mix is Nike’s Live format, which recently debuted in Los Angeles. Officially named Nike by Melrose, it’s a small (4,500 square feet) and localized concept, but what really makes it noteworthy is its data-driven assortment, influenced by what consumers are buying in the surrounding five zip codes and by Nike’s digital touchpoints. This digital/physical hybrid experience is uniquely curated for NikePlus members as well as style-, sportand speed-obsessed consumers. The store is part service hub where shoppers can hit the Sneaker Bar to talk with an expert on the latest Swoosh goods, request a try-on item on the spot and make a purchase. Nike claims it’s the fastest shoe-buying experience the company offers. NikePlus members also have access to the Unlock Box for unique products every two weeks. SwooshText, an SMS messaging system, enables them to contact the store through the Nike App. Curb Services let NikePlus members message the store ahead of time to return or exchange without entering the store. Finally, NikePlus members can reserve product using in-store Digital Lockers. The gist: This isn’t your local sporting goods shop. These examples are just a few of many where retailers are determined to make the physical effort and experience of going shopping worth the schlep again. There are plenty more that are worthy of mention and likely just as many in the beta stage. While analysts have labeled this epic shakeout “apocalyptic,” one could argue that it’s been a long time coming. These aren’t the end of days for retail; they’re the Second Coming. The rehabilitation, re-imagination and rebirth of retail is vital and exciting. For one thing, thousands of livelihoods depend on it. Beyond that, it’s a matter of giving the people what they want and demand. The customer, as every retailer knows, is always right. Does anyone want to go into a dull store with clueless or no help only to discover that the item they were hoping to buy is not in stock? Don’t think so.

Greg Dutter

Editorial Director

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Tel: (800) 361-3466 - info@kannercorp.net

THIS JUST IN

Statement Sandals Clunky, chunky, sporty and strappy sandals make for a bold statement at Paris Couture Week. Photography by Melodie Jeng

10 footwearplusmagazine.com â&#x20AC;˘ august 2018

GREG

DU TT E R

August 2018

THE RIGHT FIT J a m e s R o w l e y, CEO of Mephisto USA, on making t h e c l a s s i c Fr e n c h comfort brand matter again in America.

TIMING IS EVERYTHING, and sometimes there are serendipitous instances when a brand and an executive cross paths at just the right moment. The brand’s needs align perfectly with the exec’s skillset. They need each other, and they have the potential to bring out each other’s best attributes. Mephisto USA and James Rowley look to be one such perfect fit. Arguably one of the original Euro comfort brands, Mephisto first came ashore in the late ’80s at a premium level positioning that, to this day, remains nearly exclusive. However, the Mercedes of comfort shoes has been idling in neutral for the last decade. For too long, the brand had been relying on carryover product. Fresh styles and innovations were noticeably

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lacking. Sure, Mephisto has retained its reputation for quality, and a legion of loyal customers has continued to replenish their closets with their favorites. But as the years have ticked by, those customers have grown older and there has been a dearth of new, younger Mephisto consumers. As any brand builder worth his or her salt knows, that’s the road to irrelevance. One need only look at the metaphoric roadside to see the discarded hulks of rusted-out brands for proof. Enter, James Rowley, who took the driver’s seat at Mephisto USA this past January. The ad man-turned-boutique-shoe-retailerturned-footwear-wholesale-executive has the experience and know-how to get Mephisto’s engine revving again in the U.S. Rowley knows marketing, merchandising, product development and brand management. Not too many executives boast such a diversified resumé—or one so well suited to Mephisto’s needs. “I’m a good fit for them, and it’s a great fit for me,” says Rowley, who most recently served as president of Geox USA and, before that, managed Kork-Ease under the H.H. Brown umbrella for seven years. “The brand needs to be freshened up. It needs somebody who can tweak the retail, product development and marketing aspects. I have experience in all those areas, as well as sales, and the brand is small enough so one person can have an impact.” That impact will start with the launch of Mephisto Originals this fall, a standalone brand aimed at younger consumers (think 30s and 40s) who crave authenticity in their purchases. The Originals' archives, Rowley says, are chock-full of such styles. “This consumer is in search of the real deal type of products,” he says. “If they want an authentic Euro walking shoe, Mephisto is that brand.” Rowley likens the launch to another brand with authenticity—Kork-Ease, which has served as the touchstone for this effort. “Authenticity is what helped make Kork-Ease such a success, and that concept plays heavily into what we are doing with Mephisto Originals,” he says. Rowley is also focused on modernizing

Mephisto USA across the spectrum. Leaner inventories, upgraded ecommerce capabilities, better terms for key partners—all the blocking and tackling that comes with brand management today. It’s a task, Rowley says, that’s made easier because of Mephisto’s solid foundation. And it’s why he believes the sky’s the limit. “Just by not carrying over everything and trying to turn our inventory more quickly we’ll increase

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our business drastically,” he says. “That on top of bringing in new product innovation on a seasonal basis should double our business in the next three to five years.” Rowley, an entrepreneur at heart, relishes the opportunity to be hands-on in all aspects of Mephisto’s repositioning and rebuilding. In fact, his entrepreneurial exploits stretch back to his teenage years when he opened a boat repair business back in Sydney. After selling the business to attend Pace University in New York, Rowley embarked on an advertising career with Ogilvy & Mather. That’s when a friend, a Texas rep for Stuart Weitzman, suggested he open a shoe store. The entrepreneur in Rowley thought, why not? He chose Austin for the opening of Ven Shoe Salon. “It was an up-and-coming city, and my friend said he would help with credit lines and product,” Rowley says. The store featured a mix of upscale labels, including Giuseppe Zanotti, Tory Burch, Valentino, Cole Haan and Stuart Weitzman. Rowley went on to have a “great run,” he notes, opening two more locations over the following few years. Then the entrepreneurial bug struck again. Rowley and his business partner decided to relaunch Kork-Ease. “It was considered to be the original American wedge and a rock star of the ’50s, ’60s and ’70s,” he says. “The platform sandals used to blow out of my partner’s Houston store.” After acquiring the rights to the brand, Rowley got to work on expanding his burgeoning product development talents. The year was 2005. “I had already been doing a lot of private label development for my stores, so it seemed like an easy add-on,” he says. “We just gave it a shot. Right off the bat we got a lot of press and the brand took off. It went from zero to 100 miles an hour in six months.” Business got so good, in fact, that H.H. Brown made Rowley an offer he couldn’t refuse in 2009. The Greenwich, CT-based conglomerate made a pitch to buy Kork-Ease and install him as its manager. The timing was right for Rowley. “We needed to put a bunch of money into Kork-Ease or get out of it,” he says, noting that credit for retailers was also tight at the time. “(H.H. Brown CEO) Jim Issler made a very fair offer,” Rowley adds, noting that he closed two doors and sold one. “It’s one of the best decisions I’ve ever made because I ended up working for Jim for seven years and learning a lot.” It’s where Rowley earned his master’s degree in footwear wholesale. “H.H. Brown is one of the most efficient businesses from a product development standpoint,” he says. “Their logistics and 14 footwearplusmagazine.com • august 2018

online systems are fantastic. I’m applying a lot of what I learned to Mephisto.” Issler, especially, has had a lasting influence on Rowley. “Jim goes at 120 miles an hour all the time,” he says. “He’s always focused on change and innovation, and those are the two aspects I learned the most, plus if you don’t change, you’ll die.” It’s the approach Rowley has taken from Day One at Mephisto—and it’s exactly what the brand doctor ordered. “Mephisto USA hasn’t been approached as a change organization for the last 10 years,” Rowley says. A string of previous execs failed to move the needle, and that was a lost opportunity for a 53-year-old brand that arguably helped invent the comfort category. To remedy the situation, Mephisto Chairman Martin Michaeli sought a fresh approach. “They wanted somebody that brings a different skillset to the table than a traditional CEO-type, somebody who is more entrepreneurial to rethink and rebuild what they are doing,” Rowley says, adding, “It’s an awesome opportunity, and I’m excited about the future for Mephisto.” What specifically attracted you to the Mephisto USA opportunity? First off, I like that we’re a family-owned business. Martin Michaeli is extremely involved and decisions are made very quickly. Also, the decisions are made with only the best interest of the brand in mind. There’s no stock market issues or politics. In addition, the brand has an incredibly loyal following. A lot of our customers only wear Mephisto. I see a huge opportunity in brand loyalty, but we need to bring in a younger customer. We have to reposition ourselves online to a younger market, and we have to update our brand in the marketplace at all levels of communication. Like with the launch of Mephisto Originals? Yes. A key aspect of this overall effort involves relaunching Originals as a separate brand. We’re targeting that younger consumer who’s looking for authenticity in their purchases. They want to buy brands that represent something that’s not contrived or built up from hype, rather it’s built on reputation and reality. For example, if they want a lace-to-toe sneaker, they’re going to buy Stan Smith. A sheepskin boot, they’re going to buy Ugg. That’s where the opportunity stands for Mephisto. Our archives span 50-plus years and are filled with iconic products for a casual lifestyle. And unlike most comfort brands, we have our own factories. We control production— every single element of the process from soup to nuts. That quality sets us apart. It gives us a very consistent product, and Mephisto customers

understand that as I believe consumers who seek authenticity will too. All these factors combined position us very well for growth in the U.S. What will retailers see that’s new with respect to Mephisto Originals? They’ll see a standalone website, a new logo

OFF THE CUFF Who is your most coveted dinner guest? Warren Buffett. He’s the best at simplifying the complicated. What are you reading? Ogilvy on Advertising. It’s a classic book about brand strategy. What was the last movie you saw? Incredibles 2 with my son. What was your firstever paying job? A caddie in Sydney, Australia. If you could hire anybody, who would it be? I wouldn’t mind snapping up Mark Zuckerberg. I think he’s doing some smart things and making a strong comeback.

What sound do you love? Ka-ching. What is the best advice you’ve ever received? Do one thing at a time and do it well. It came from (H.H. Brown CEO) Jim Issler. What’s top on your bucket list? Retirement. What is your favorite hometown memory? I’m from Sydney, and one of my favorite memories is catching the local bus with my buddies to hit the beach on Saturday and Sunday mornings to go surfing. I loved doing that.

and a new marketing campaign that captures the heritage, craftsmanship and attitude of Mephisto Originals. It’s an irreverent campaign that doesn’t take itself too seriously. There’s an emphasis on fun. We’re conveying how great these shoes are to walk in without calling it “comfort” shoes. But let’s face it, that’s what they are: super-comfortable shoes. We’re launching the campaign in September with a pop-up beside

Sportie L.A. We’ve partnered with (Sportie L.A. owner) Isack Fadlon’s ad agency, Propeller 5. Creative director Hersh Rephun, an ad veteran who has created content across all industries, is leading the campaign. Lots of brands want to get younger, but it’s not easy. Why will Mephisto Originals be able to do so? Because we have product that suits that market. And when I say younger, we’re not trying to hit 20s, we’re aiming at 40s and 50s. Our iconic Rainbow shoe, for example, is a classic, lace-to-toe type sneaker that is more on the traditional shoe side than sport. I think that’s where people are going, especially in the category and age group I’m talking about. They’re moving away from wearing sneakers to work. They’re looking for that crossover product that is as comfortable as a sneaker but fits slightly more on the shoe side of that category. Plus, we have great brand recognition in the U.S. If we put the right digital marketing around that product along with upgraded ecommerce capabilities, we can target that younger audience directly. Becoming younger as a brand overall is the biggest opportunity for us, and that’s been my first order of business since I’ve gotten here. But rather than potentially alienate our current Mephisto customers with trying to change the way we represent ourselves, we’re going after that younger customer with Mephisto Originals.

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Who is the current Mephisto customer? Our current customer is on the older side right now. But we’re updating our product development capabilities very quickly and bringing new products into the marketplace to slowly bring our average age down. We’re also doing a lot more online marketing to bring that average age down. Prior to my arrival, our digital capabilities had not been important to the brand. We were very late to the party on ecommerce, Instagram, SEO—all aspects that we are now pushing hard. In fact, our ecommerce business is already up 80 percent over last year, and that’s just from pulling a couple of little levers to help grow our own site as well as with partners like Nordstrom. What was Mephisto USA doing wrong before? A big problem was that it was being run like a stock-and-fill company. They weren’t innovating. They weren’t bringing new products into the market each season. They were carrying over too many styles. If you don’t change, you die.

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What’s the reaction been from retailers so far? Our partners are very excited, and we’re already seeing results. We’re going to have a plus year—the first time in six years. Our shipments are up for Q1 and Q2, and we’re looking at a very strong finish to the year. As a former retailer, how would you assess the current landscape? It’s tricky. I understand how difficult it is. People are trying to work out the online channel and how it affects pricing. Business is still being done, but it’s just being done in different channels, and we have to figure out how to make sure that we are representing our brand in those channels. Is it really as apocalyptic as many say? Brick-and-mortar is having a very tough time, mainly because they are fighting a steep drop in traffic. As a retailer ourselves, we’re spending a lot of our time and energy trying to figure out how to increase traffic in our stores. It’s not just about product and pricing to achieve that. It’s about developing innovative strategies and experiences to get more people to walk into our doors, which is expensive because it’s a marketing cost. But it’s necessary.

JMC6447~49142_Footwear_plus_Ad_85x55inches.indd 1

20/07/2018 16:51

We are mining data that we’ve collected in our stores. We’re doing a lot of email marketing and other forms of digital communication.

Are Americans, by and large, just over shopping in stores? In the case of Mephisto where they’re looking to buy a $300 to $400 shoe, they’re still more likely to want to try it on first. You can’t get that without the brick-and-mortar experience. But to answer your question, many of them could be. Times have changed. People are spending their time doing different things and the web is just so convenient. I don’t think brick-and-mortar will go away entirely. People still shop and many still have their first experience with products at the brick-and-mortar level. But once they know the brand, the product, their size…many are going buying replenishment items online. That’s why we have to be able to service those customers at every point of contact. If that really is the overriding trend, how will stores survive? One way we help is by sharing our ecommerce business with our Mephistoonly stores. Our corporate- and partnership-owned stores all get a piece of our ecommerce business. We have a system that routes orders, and they can choose to fill them if they have the items in stock. It’s a systematic process that’s done fairly. Nowadays, it’s very difficult for our retailers to survive without that help because most of our stores are doing between 10 and 20 percent of their business through our website.

Full

How unique is this in the industry? It’s very unique in the comfort footwear business. But it’s not a unique system in other industries. We started it about six or seven years ago, but since we’ve ramped up our own ecommerce site now it’s an order volume that is making a real impact for our stores. Lots of multi-branded retailers gripe that every DTC sale is one they’ve lost. What are you doing to support their needs? We do a lot to help them compete because we believe that channel is an extremely important part of our business. We offer drop shipping, we’ve introduced better terms for key independents, we’re shipping quicker, we’ve strengthened our MAP policy and, of course, we’ll be introducing fresh and innovative products. We don’t look at brick-and-mortar and online as two separate channels. We look at them as a combined effort to build our brand.

Bloom

What was the best lesson you learned by being a retailer? That’s a good question. Probably to find brands that had a partnership mentality was most important. You have to find brands that are willing to partner closely, because it’s so tough with the influx of second tier competition online. So in addition to better terms, we’re segmenting our line to offer the wholesale channel exclusive products to protect them from online competitors. Is the Match collab you did last year with Concepts an example? Yes. We are doing more with Concepts on a quarterly basis. The next drops in October. We are also doing one with Sportie L.A. Both are sneaker boutiques. Why do you think the collabs work for a “brown shoe” brand like Mephisto? Because the customer that shops those boutiques is in search of authentic items, and that’s what Concepts and Sportie L.A. get behind. Both stores are big fans of Mephisto because it’s the real deal. Both also sell a lot of Birkenstock, because that brand is authentic. When (Concepts owner) Tarek Hassan finds something that’s authentic, he doesn’t try to change it >75

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DATE DESCRIPTION

13 July 2018 COUGAR Footwear Plus Ad 2018 - Aug 1/2018

T R E N D S POT T I N G

THE GOLDEN RAGE Designers dig shades of the rich hue. Photography by Tr e v e t t Mc C a n d l i s s 1. Inkkas 2. L’Amour Des Pieds 3. Bill Blass 4. Ron White 5. Vionic 6. Matisse 7. Nicole 8. Johnston & Murphy 9. White Mountain 10. Bayton 11. Italian Shoemakers 12. Gabor 13. Birkenstock 14. Jewel by Badgley Mischka

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PHOTO GRAPHY BY J OSEP H P LUC HIN O

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2 3

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IT ’S IN THE JEANS The Americana fabric has it covered. 1. SAS 2. Hush Puppies 3. Secret Celebrity 4. J. Reneé 5. All Black 6. Minnetonka 7. Bernardo 8. Restricted 9. Taos

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P HOTO G RAP HY BY TR EVETT MCC AN DL I SS; P R O P STY L IN G BY R O BI N Z AC HA RY

PREP SCHOOL PLAYBOOK Pe n c i l i n t h e c l a s s i c m e n’s s i l h o u e tt e f o r s p r i n g . From top: Geox, Twisted X, SAS, Ugg, Propét, At right: Florsheim.

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P HOTO G RAP HY BY TR EVETT MCC AN DL I SS; P R O P STY L IN G BY R O BI N Z AC HA RY

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The sexiest industry in Europe is arriving to the US

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YOU KNOW THE ’DRILLE

The classic summer staple comes in a range of silhouettes. 8 1. Musse & Cloud 2. Nicole 3. Earth 4. OTBT 5. Trask 6. Bearpaw 7. Dansko 8. J. Reneé 9. Joules 10. Keds 11. Patrizia by Spring Step 12. Taos 13. White Mountain

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PHOTO GRAPHY BY J OSEP H P LUC HIN O

T R E N D S P OT T I N G

PICTURE THIS Cute graphics send a playful message. 1. Bayton 2. Gabor 3. L’Artiste by Spring Step 4. Inkkas 5. Sand by Saya 6. Keds 7. Dansko

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PHOTO GRAPH Y BY JOSEP H P LUC HI NO

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DREAM WEAVERS Wo v e n u p p e r s a d d a l a y e r o f t e x t u r e a n d b r e a t h a b i l i t y. 1. Matisse 2. Easy Spirit 3. White Mountain 4. Walking Cradles 5. Trask 6. Seychelles 7. Italian Shoemakers

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P HOTO G RAP HY BY TR EVETT MCC AN DL I SS; P R O P STY L IN G BY R O BI N Z AC HA RY

GET SPORTY When a flip-flop or a slide just won’ t ge t the job done. From top: Propét, Bearpaw, Jerusalem Sandals, Naot.

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P HOTO G RAP HY BY TR EVETT MCC AN DL I SS; P R O P STY L IN G BY R O BI N Z AC HA RY

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I N N O V A T I V E I N

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STRIPES HYPE Thick, slim and multi-colored, stripes are where designers draw the lines. 1. Twisted X 2. Bernardo 3. Marc Fisher 4. Joules 5. Bayton 6. Madeline 7. Ron White 8. Dansko

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PHOTO GRAPH Y BY JOSEP H P LUC HI NO

Trulie Amazing since 2014

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A LIT TLE BIT COUNTRY We s t e r n - i n s p i r e d b o o t i e s : a l i t t l e s t r u t w i t h o u t t h e f u l l - o n b o o t b a g g a g e . Clockwise from top left: Sigerson Morrison, Ron White, Nicole, Coconuts by Matisse, CAT.

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P HOTO G RAP HY BY TR EVETT MCC AN DL I SS; P R O P STY L IN G BY R O BI N Z AC HA RY

T R E N D S P OT T I N G

WEDGES ALERT! The summer staple comes in a range of heights, shapes and styles. Clockwise from top left: Italian Shoemakers, SAS, BC, Geox, Antelope, Wolky, Propét.

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PHOTO GRAPH Y BY JOSEP H P LUC HI NO

T R E N D S P OT T I N G

Visit us at Platform booth #82307 and Atlanta booth #1437-1439, 1536-1538. Please contact your local sales representative to preview our Spring 2019 Collection.

PUT A BOW ON IT The embellishment adds that all-important finishing touch. Clockwise from top left: Restricted, Easy Spirit, Walking Cradles, J. Reneé, Bill Blass.

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P HOTO G RAP HY BY TR EVETT MCC AN DL I SS; P R O P STY L IN G BY R O BI N Z AC HA RY

T R E N D S P OT T I N G

Bella~VitaÂ®

46 Sizes & 4 Widths | ALL National & REGIONAL SHOWS | 1-800-970-VITA Nerissa

PERFS -FECTION A l l - o v e r p e r f p a t t e r n s a r e h o l i e r t h a n n o w. Clockwise from top left: Bearpaw, Trask, Madeline, Earth.

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P HOTO G RAP HY BY TR EVETT MCC AN DL I SS; P R O P STY L IN G BY R O BI N Z AC HA RY

T R E N D S P OT T I N G

FASHION

Atlanta Apparel Show

MAJOR

BRANDS

August 7-10, 2018

August 13-15, 2018

Atlanta Apparel Mart • Booth B3-114

LVCC • Booth 81058

Dallas Strut Show

Atlanta Shoe Show August 19-21, 2018

Cobb Galleria, GA • Booth 323-325

Sole Commerce

August 22-25, 2018

September 13-15, 2018

Dallas Market Center • Booth 13-108

Jacob Javits, NYC • Booth TBD

Falida

www.musseandcloud.com

REALLY RIVETING Studs add a dose of ’tude and texture. Clockwise from top: Naot, Geox, Earth, Revere, Patrizia by Spring Step.

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P HOTO G RAP HY BY TR EVETT MCC AN DL I SS; P R O P STY L IN G BY R O BI N Z AC HA RY

T R E N D S P OT T I N G

Spring 2019 Must-Haves The Minnetonka flip-flop program for women and men is flying off shelves and adding more for 2019. Visit Minnetonka to see the full collection at the following upcoming shows.

F N P L AT F O R M A UG US T 1 3 -15 , 2 0 18 BO OT H #81054

AT L A N TA S H O E M A R K E T

NY NOW

A U G U S T 19 -21 , 20 1 8

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BOO TH # 72 1- 72 3-7 25

BO O TH # 82 7 3

NEED A LIF T? Über platforms raise the bar on style. Clockwise from top left: Naot, Patrizia by Spring Step, Bearpaw, Restricted, Musse & Cloud, Bos & Co., Antelope.

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P HOTO G RAP HY BY TR EVETT MCC AN DL I SS; P R O P STY L IN G BY R O BI N Z AC HA RY

T R E N D S P OT T I N G

Pass »» It On

B Y K AT H Y PA S S E R O

More independent retailers are handing their stores down from one generation to the next. But making the move can be a challenge.

HEN JOHN SCHULER was diagwith input from his children, his wife and his children’s spouses. nosed with cancer in 2005, it came Such a lengthy timeline is not unusual, according to experts. When as a stark wakeup call not only about it comes to a family business, generational transfers can be both a labyhis own future but about the future of rinth and a landmine, fraught with emotionally charged conversations his family business. If failing health and tricky family dynamics like sibling rivalry—not to mention complex forced him to relinquish control of issues like trusts and estate planning. But, challenges notwithstanding, his nine Minnesota stores, who would more and more retailers are making succession a family affair. fill his shoes? Schuler Shoes had been “In the past, when retailers decided to retire, they sold their busihanded down through successive nesses,” explains Chuck Schuyler, president of the National Shoe Retailers generations of John’s family—startAssociation. “But in today’s environment, that’s a difficult thing to do. ing with his great uncle, Vincent Many of our members have family in the business, so instead of trying Schuler, who founded the family’s to sell, they’re transitioning their business to the next generation. That’s first store back in 1889 in Minneapolis—so passing it on seemed the the top choice when it comes to exit strategies. Clearly, it’s the future of logical choice. After all, John himself had bought the company from his the channel.” father, Emmett, in the 1970s. Unfortunately, almost 85 percent of family-owned businesses in the The problem was, John had four adult chilU.S. have no succession plans in place, dren. All of them worked full time for Schuler even though they consider the topic their Shoes, which John had grown considerably biggest challenge, according to a recent in his three decades at the helm. Three of his PricewaterhouseCoopers survey. To smooth children’s spouses were employees, too. Each the process for footwear retailers, NSRA child had unique strengths and an interest in introduced a Next Generation Leadership the company’s future. Choosing one of them program eight years ago. Its centerpiece is as his successor would be akin to picking a an annual conference taught by experts in favorite from his sons and daughters—and business transition. (See sidebar.) announcing it to the public. It was not an enviable position. FIRST STEPS Flash forward to 2018 and John, who “Putting a plan for succession in place is recovered from cancer but has since faced really important,” says leadership consulother health crises, is still in the process of tant Diane Nettifee of Magis Ventures, Minnesota marvels: the Schuler family of Schuler Shoes. transitioning Schuler Shoes for the future, a Minneapolis-based firm that special-

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DO’S AND DON’TS

Tips on transitioning a business from one generation to the next. izes in helping organizations with successful transitions. “People often start too late. They DO start early. Transitioning a business successfully takes years. underestimate how much time it takes to get the next generation ready. DO develop an ongoing development plan that will hone the younger generation’s skills gradually. “You need a development plan that sup“As you move toward succession, you want to start stretching them into more decision-making ports the growth of people into their future roles slowly rather than suddenly announcing, ‘Okay, now you’re in charge!’” says consultant roles. That’s how you make a transition feel Diane Nettifee. “Think of it as a formation process, preparing them so that when they step into consistent with what’s been good about a the decision-making role it won’t be foreign to them.” business and collaborative so that it helps the next generation of leaders to build on it,” adds DO remember that just because a consultant was a good fit for another company, that doesn’t Nettifee, who is working with Schuler Shoes mean they’ll be right for you. “Word of mouth is a good way to find a qualified local professional, on its transition plan. Of course, up-and-comers aren’t the only but always interview someone before you hire them,” advises Nettifee. “Does their style of working ones who need support. “The more successful mesh with yours? Do they have a similar set of values? Find someone you feel you can really trust.” the retailer is, the more tied to their business they are,” says NSRA’s Schuyler. Those ties DON’T be afraid to look outside the family as you make your succession plans. “If you don’t often make the older generation reluctant to have any relatives who are capable of or want to assume leadership of the organization, it’s pass the baton. important to know that early,” says Nettifee. If this happens, you’ll need to search for an outside Such was the case for Adam Beck and his leader to come in and run the company, reporting to stakeholders in the family—and the younger cousin, Julia Gomez-Beck, of Beck’s Shoes. generation of stakeholders may want to be involved in the selection process. When they were in their early twenties, both Becks knew they wanted to take over the family DO make sure the current generation of owners sets the timetable and controls the clock for business, a California-based chain poised to succession, advises NSRA’s Chuck Schuyler. This gives the current generation time to transition celebrate its centennial next year. “A lot of parents want to hold onto the business, out comfortably and their students time to gain experience. but they’re doing themselves a huge injustice if they don’t start planning for succession,” says DO make a clean, definitive exit if you can. “When I bought the business from my father, other Adam Beck of Beck’s Shoes. “They’re going than giving him a check every month and asking for advice at times, running the business was my to hit a point where they’re fatigued. That’s decision,” says John Schuler of Schuler Shoes. “In my case, all four of my kids are minority stock no time to start training the next generation.” holders and I’m still the major stock holder, which has been challenging to manage. If you’re able to Worse, he says, waiting doesn’t allow for give the next generation 100 pecent control and exit the business yourself, I highly recommend it.” unforeseen calamities. “I used to ask my uncle, ‘What if you’re not here tomorrow? What if DO be honest about your strengths and weaknesses and those of your family members, no there was an accident? What are we going to matter which generation you’re in, advises Adam Beck of Beck’s Shoes. “You need to be objective do about the business?’ and you need to be selfless to succeed,” he stresses. “Julia and I were pretty aggressive about succession because we were introduced to the business at such a young age,” Beck explains. DON’T put your personal goals above your family or the long-term health of your business. “We started working during the summer when “When you step aside, you allow your children to spread their wings and flourish outside of your we were ten and did every job from cleaning the shadow,” says Mark Farber of Mark Adrian Shoes. What’s more, you model a good example for bathrooms and mopping the floors to stocking them to follow when it’s their turn to step aside so their own children can eventually succeed shelves and checking in shipments all the way them in running the business you helped to build, he says. up through the retail process.” The younger Becks started a dialogue with their dads and their grandfather, who were then co-owners, about the future of the family business seven years ago we were and weren’t good at and what we needed to do to be successful.” and enrolled in NSRA’s Next Generation Leadership Program shortly The family officially transferred the business to Adam, now CEO, and after it was introduced. Julia, now president and COO, two years ago. “We’ve been profitable “The program was an eye-opener for us,” recalls Beck. “We thought our 22 of the last 24 months,” says Beck, 37, of the enterprise, which now parents were behind the eight ball, but we soon realized they had really includes 12 stores, three shoemobile trucks and a thriving web business. empowered us because they’d given us such an open, honest view of the “Succession of any family business is extremely difficult, and the shoe business. We had a leg up because we knew what the balance sheet was. business is difficult on top of that, so if you don’t have full transparWe knew the metrics. There were a lot of next geners who had never ency, the odds of taking it to the next generation are slim,” says Beck. seen a P&L, never seen a balance sheet, didn’t know what their maintain “You need to know how to read a P&L and you need to know how to margin was and had no idea what their parents made remuneration-wise. have strategic conversations with your family. You have to define what We knew all that, so succession for us was about looking at the things success will look like together. Is it a two percent annual increase in

2018 august • footwearplusmagazine.com 47

BACK TO SCHOOL

NSRA NextGen Leadership Program Conference Offers a Short Course in Successful Succession. To get a bead on pressing issues, the National Shoe Retailers Association often surveys its members. Not long ago, the organization asked them about their plans for the future and found some surprising results: More than half of respondents said they expected their businesses to change ownership within five to 10 years. “That’s a lot,” says NSRA President Chuck Schuyler, who estimates that 70 percent of the organization’s members run familyowned businesses. “We saw a real opportunity to help our members stay ahead of the curve rather than play catch-up.” Enter, NSRA’s Next Generation Leadership Program, designed to help retailers with multigenerational businesses navigate the often thorny process of transitioning them to the

sons, daughter, nieces, nephews and other younger members of the family successfully. “Rather than reinvent the wheel, we formed strategic partnerships with major universities with expertise on the topic of succession and that were offering phenomenal business education,” says Schuyler. “That helped us hit the ground running.” Among those partners are Loyola, Marquette, Villanova and University of Wisconsin. Now in its eighth year, NSRA’s annual three-day Next Generation conference— sometimes offered for students only, sometimes for parents and students—has steadily expanded. Along the way, it has earned a reputation in the industry for effective, hands-on training; actionable strategies; and a chance to network with peers who are going through

the transition process or who have gone through it successfully. “After eight years, there are people who have gone through the program and are now running very large, successful businesses. For the most part, they have stayed in the program and act as mentors to those coming in,” says Schuyler. “We all want to know what our peers did that actually worked, and our members learn a lot from them. The NextGen program has given us a great opportunity to create peer-to-peer networks for the next generation of footwear retailers.” This year’s NSRA Next Generation Leadership Program is for students only and takes place Sept. 30–Oct. 2 at the Embassy Suites Denver Intl. Airport. For more info, go to www.nsra.org or call 800-673-8446.

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profits? Three percent? If you’re not all on the same page, it’s like going on a cross-country road trip with a destination in mind but without a map. We put a four-pronged approach into place for our succession: 1) Where have we been? 2) Where are we now? 3) Where do we want to be in the future? 4) How are we going to get there? Then we met at least once a month for a few hours to hash this stuff out over more than five years, and every time we ended a succession meeting, we scheduled another.” Another key, Beck says, is to have a good working relationship with your CPA, legal counsel, insurance broker and lawyer.

COMFORT + BEAUTY

LETTING GO For Mark Farber of Mark Adrian Shoes—founded in Gloucester, MA, in 1975—passing the family business on to his son, Adam (the fifth generation in the family to become a shoe retailer) proved challenging but ultimately rewarding for both generations. “Often parents pay lip service to the goal of transitioning the business without having intellectually and emotionally accepted the notion,” he says. “Most next geners I’ve met have aptitude

New England stalwarts: the Farber family, of Mark Adrian Shoes.

and talent, but we parents are blindsided by our own emotional needs which block their path. It is neither fair nor best business practice to grudgingly concede to the next-gen that the transition will arrive some day. It needs to be accomplished as expeditiously as practical. It takes sacrifice and courage from parents to let go.” When Adam decided to leave New York in 2014 with his wife, Sara, and asked Mark if he would train him to eventually assume ownership of the business, a laborious process involving everything from estate planning to family counseling followed. “Thanks to Adam’s motivational drive and business acumen, we truncated the transition time, and I retired in January 2017,” says Mark. “His success at navigating the rocky shoals of retail has exceeded my wildest expectations.” The worst hurdle for Mark was simply accepting the change. “The biggest challenge of transitioning is for the parent to pack his parachute and prepare for landing. I didn’t do that, so my transition was a hard one, taking months to acclimate. Now I get such fulfillment watching all of my children succeed in their >77

Visit us at Platform Booth #81439 www.lamourdespieds.com | 800.527.5322 facebook.com/LDPShoes instagram.com/lamourdespieds twitter.com/lamourdespieds

A N OT E T O M Y Y O U N G E R S E L F

A LIFETIME OF SELLING C B Tu i t e , c h i e f s a l e s o f f i c e r f o r O r t h o L i t e , reflects on a career in sales and why listening is the secret to success. DEAR CB, The biggest piece of advice I can give you right now is to simply, “Go for it.” Looking back on this journey of 27 years (and still counting), all I can say is to jump in with both feet. Don’t be afraid. Don’t look back. I know you have apprehensions about entering the footwear business right out of Providence College, but you need not worry. It’ll be the best decision you ever make, and it will set the stage for amazing opportunities to follow. You will travel the world where you’ll meet some of the most dynamic, talented and inspiring people along the way. They will mentor you and point you in the right direction. Some will become lifelong friends, to boot. You will see the right way to do business, and you will also see the wrong way to go about it. Both will help you make better personal and professional decisions that guide you down the right path. I don’t want to give everything away about where your career will take you since it should really be a surprise, but the majority will involve the footwear industry, from sourcing shoes to working on the wholesale side where you will supply many of the largest retailers in the country. You will buy and sell your own company, Velocity Sportswear, and you’ll also work in the public, VC and private equity communities for a stretch where you’ll help build, grow and reshape businesses such as Arccos, AirPacks, Foster Grant and Miller. It’ll be extremely challenging, but also fulfilling. It’s where you’ll learn the importance of consultative selling, and where you’ll learn to build sales channel strategies that improve focus and optimize resources. But you are thrilled to return to the industry where you started and love as chief sales officer for OrthoLite, the world’s leading OEM insole provider. The people, the passion, the product—the footwear business has it all. Right now, though, you are cleaning golf clubs in the bag room at

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New Seabury on Cape Cod. It’s summer, and you’re a college student with your life all before you. Enjoy. Every. Moment! How funny is it that several of the members you’ve worked for over those years include Shoe Dogs, including a few legendary ones, like Reebok’s Paul Fireman, Dick Tarlow of FootJoy, Fran Lee of H.H. Brown and Gerry Shulman, a footwear sourcing veteran. And now you work for another iconic Shoe Dog, Glenn Barrett, who has pioneered the insoles category with the introduction of game-changing technologies. Time will fly by and, before you know it, you’ll earn Shoe Dog status as well! Who would’ve thought that would happen? LOL! The best piece of advice I can give you now is to be one big sponge and absorb everything possible. Look, listen and learn. Along the way, one of your mentors will bestow this nugget of wisdom: “Manage, collaborate and sell with your ears and not your mouth.” When you first hear the advice, you think it’s contrary to what a sales leader should do. But he was absolutely right. You will quickly learn from your start at IGF Footwear as vice president of sales onto Ecco as a general sales manager and in your current position at OrthoLite that when it comes to the shoe business, it’s best to ask questions and to simply listen. Knowing the needs of your coworkers and your brand partners enables you to find the right solutions. The top-performing sales managers are always the ones who take the necessary time to know the business of their clients inside and out. It requires research, commitment and desire. It also demands that you never be afraid to ask questions—there are no wrong ones when you’re in search of the right answers. That is how successful sales partnerships start and how long-standing relationships are forged. In essence, that is the secret to a successful lifetime of selling. Good luck, CB! I’ve got a tee time to make!

Tel: (800) 361-3466 - info@kannercorp.net

W H AT’ S SE L LI N G

Work Specialty

FOOTWEAR PLUS Roxboro, NC

HEN ONLINE SALES took off in the early aughts, Mike Chambers could read the writing on the wall. He knew he’d have to adapt to keep the business his father first opened as a country store (C.W. Chambers) in 1946 alive. That’s when he invested in two 36-foot trailers (he recently bought a third) to take the now aptly named Footwear Plus on the road. “The area we live in was losing as many jobs as we were gaining,” Chambers says of why he decided to expand the store’s reach. “There are still only 38,000 people in Person County, but just down the road in Durham there are 500,000.” Both the 2,400-square-foot store and trailers carry work boots and apparel as well as western wear. The footwear selection includes Timberland Pro, Wolverine, Keen, Ariat, Thorogood and Red Wing. What gets stocked in the trailers, however, changes depending on the site being visited. Linemen, for example, need different boots than those working for city municipalities. It’s part of adapting on the fly, according to Chambers. “Niche retailers move the fastest, and we’re responding on a daily basis,” he says, citing its strong customer service (he instructs staff to treat customers “like you would your grandmother”) as a key to building repeat business. “It’s about retailtainment where folks have a good time and feel welcome,” Chambers says. “You ask questions, be respectful and offer directions and suggestions around town to those visiting. It’s that Southern hospitality.” —Aleda Johnson How’s business? Our store sales have been a little flat because of online competition, but the trailers are doing well. We’ve spread our customer base beyond Roxboro. If a plant in one town shuts down, there are plants all over who need something so it’s not as bad. We’re able to set up shop right in the parking lot of a factory. People buy work boots before or after their shift. We’re hoping to see a 10- to 15-percent increase in the third and fourth quarters. How important are the trailers to your store’s bottom line? They’re a very strong revenue stream and account for about 80 percent of our shoe sales. It’s just a matter of adapting from a cash and carry business to an accounts business. You get more for your money, but stocking something different each day is a challenge. You also need to satisfy two customers: the person buying and the employer. I always say “S=S” (style equals safety). If they don’t wear it, it won’t keep them safe. What are your leading footwear brands? Timberland Pro is huge for us. Justin, Monolithic and Thorogood also do well. We’ve carried Wolverine since 1946. Back then it was WWII surplus for $3.95 a pair. Anything you’ve added in the last year? We started working with Red Wing, and people love that they’re American made. We’ve also added Footwear Specialties’ Avenger men’s line. In general, we’re focusing more on styles that

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have composite toes compared to steel toes. They’re lighter and cooler in hot weather. Customers also like the savings. What percentage of your total business is shoes? About 70 percent, which is a pretty decent chunk. Oftentimes, we can sell like 50 pairs by 9 a.m. on the trailers. Sometimes it’s a once-a-year stop for us, but in other case we can make two or three visits a month. Any popular accessories? Our Footwear Plus socks, made in North Carolina. They’re durable and the elastic won’t slide down. We started making them eight years ago as something to give people to remind them of us on a daily basis. Any plans to sell online? Eventually we will have to, but until then I’ve been finding an easier way with the trailers. There’s so much competition online. Rather than chasing something, we’re trying to stay ahead of the curve in other ways. We’re also creating our first catalog for the safety industry. We’ve been adapting since 1946. Daddy always said, “Either you grow, or your competition grows.” We intend to keep growing. In addition to the trailers, how do you reach new customers? For local sales, word of mouth is the best way. Happy customers spread the word. We also do a lot of social media and exhibit at safety shows and conferences, hawking the Footwear Plus difference. What’s your take on the so-called retail apocalypse? I’m noticing the effects. Folks don’t shop as much vs. looking online. I would like to think it will swing back. We’re offering customers something they can’t live without and can make their lives easier. You can’t get that type of service/knowledge online. What do you love most about being a work specialty retailer? Working with customers. I love when they ask for help and I say, “You need this and this.” Those are great interactions because they’ll often come back a year later asking for another boot just like it. That’s satisfaction. It reminds me of stand-up comedy: You spend 10 minutes figuring out who they are, what they need and how to satisfy them, then do it all over again. My job is fast-paced, challenging and fun. What are you most proud of ? No. 1, I’m proud of our history—that we’ve been in business for 72 years. We have a good name that folks trust. Boots that can run as much as $170 require a leap of faith for some people. We treat everyone fairly to make sure they get the shoes they need. At the end of the day, we’re trying to feed our families just like the workers we wait on. We all have the same goal. I’m also proud that this remains a family business. My wife is a very integral part, working in accounting. Where do you see Footwear Plus in five years? I see us as a bigger player in the regional safety shoe market. I’d like to think we’ll have five trailers to cover the I-95 corridor from southern Virginia to South Carolina. We want to be profitable and happy. If you’re enjoying yourself, everything falls into place.

Come see our spring 2019 selection at FN PLATFORM

Las Vegas Convention Center | South Hall, Level 2 Room S231/232 August 13th - 15th To schedule an appointment please contact your local sales rep or call 212-246-1900

kids’ preview

SPRING 2019

ECLECTIC ESSENTIALS Designers cater to kids’ wide-ranging tastes in the form of whimsical animal motifs, glitter galore, empowering messages and mini-me sophistication. B Y E M I LY B E C K M A N

The New Nineties

Little Voices

With most parents today having grown up in the ’90s, the children’s market is meeting a growing demand for nostalgic buys like jelly sandals, pool slides and chunky sneakers. The sporty silhouettes feature plenty of neon color pops in tune with the ’90s revival theme. “We’re taking recognizable silhouettes and giving them a contemporary facelift,” says Heather Dady, designer for Western Chief Kids, citing new glitter-infused jelly sandals as an anticipated bestseller. Bil Waring, senior footwear buyer for Joules, agrees the ’90s are back. “Pool slides have grown massively and are overtaking the classic flipflop silhouette,” he says, noting that slides have been added to Joules’ collection for children. Classic label Laura Ashley is even experimenting with retroinspired clear materials like PVC for a revamped look to its classic designs. “While it may be as simple as the color of a flower petal, we always find a way to integrate Laura Ashley’s iconic prints with current trends,” says Penne Cairoli, president of Laura Ashley’s U.S. division. Looking ahead, Dady anticipates girls’ clogs to become more popular, particularly the traditional wood bottom. “That’s the next step up from the retro platform shoes a lot of brands are doing,” she says. “We’re not quite there yet with traditional-looking clogs, but I can see us taking those steps in the future.”

Kids today are dialed in 24-7. Many are fixated on their phones— sending and receiving Snapchats, checking their Instagram feeds and watching their favorite YouTubers. Their ability to communicate with each other instantly and constantly means trends can spread at a viral speed. Collectively, kids are becoming as influential as the influencers so many of them follow. Never before have they held so much power in determining which trends live and die. “Kids are the ones making the rules,” Dady says. “They’re listening to other kids and inspiring them to do more of whatever they love.” With that, brands are listening and following closely. “We look at what kids are doing everywhere we can,” says Luis Gonzalez Palacio, director of design for Vida Kids. “It’s important to draw inspiration from less obvious sources,” he adds, noting kids’ reactions to music, art, food and travel are key ways to determine what trends will sell. Bornie Del Priore, vice president and general manager of Wolverine Worldwide’s kids’ division, agrees, stressing the importance of looking at more than adult trends to find out what’s going to be hot. “We go straight to the source, asking kids what they like and don’t like in addition to keeping an eye on what’s happening in pop culture,” she says. For Spring ’19, Del Priore affirms self-expression as one of Wolverine’s primary focuses. “Whether that’s shoes with words on them or fully customized designs, kids want to feel like they are wearing a part of their personality on their feet,” she says. Keds, for instance, is launching a collection that features empowering messages for young girls that swap conventional “I am a Princess” themes for contemporary “Girl Power” messaging.

Keds Nina

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Joules

Gender Bender Similar to making the rules, kids are also breaking them—like gender-specific styles. In response, a growing number of brands are eliminating gender labels all together, letting kids decide what colors they want to wear. “I have a 4-year-old, and his favorite color is magenta,” says Denise LeMons, senior designer for Bearpaw. She notes that her son has always been more attracted to the brighter hues. “It’s no longer assumed that if you’re a girl you want to wear pink,” she says. “Purple, gray, orange, blue—it should be available to whoever wants to wear it.” Dady has also kept a gender-neutral presentation more in mind when designing Western Chief ’s latest collection. “Sometimes we mix up what is considered a boys’ boot and put it on a girl model,” she says, noting that the brand’s current catalog features a girl wearing a dinosaur boot. For next spring, Dady expects motocross to have a big Western moment with racecars, checked flags Chief and roadway graphics in abundance. “We took a chance throwing it in there, and it’s really taken off,” she says, noting most orders are probably geared toward boys, but the company expects plenty of girls will be customers as well.

Alive and Wool Chalk this trend up to the Allbirds effect. The New Zealand start-up wool sneaker company has taken Silicon Valley techies by storm and been a darling of The New York Times coverage. In response, a flock of wool wannabes have landed on the market, be it sneakers, slides, clogs, slip-on or booties. Apparently, wool has never “felt” so good. “The wool sneaker is the hottest trend of late,” confirms Keith Barnett, North American sales manager at EMU Australia, noting lightweight washable wool sneakers is a key item of its Spring ’19 collection. Beyond being trend-right, Barnett says the all-natural material is able to regulate internal temperatures as well as remain insulated even when wet. In addition, wool has natural moisturewicking properties and antimicrobial tendencies. Bearpaw’s LeMons agrees wool is one of the season’s trendiest materials, mentioning wool oxfords as a popular style for boys. She expects fur in general to become more common outside its standard winter season. “As temperatures vary a lot in the spring, fur provides that warm-but-still-breathable benefit,” she says. “Fur, particularly faux fur, is something we’re going to see a lot more of as a style statement,” she adds. Bearpaw

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SPRING 2019

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Small World Kids today seem to grow up faster than ever. Perhaps it’s partly because many of them are wearing adult-style takedowns and look the part? Whatever the reason, the trend of sophisticated children’s fashion shows little sign of slowing down as many brands are expanding their mini-me offerings. Bearpaw reports nearly 40 percent of its kids’ line is now takedowns, and LeMons says the plan next year is to showcase Mommy & Me as a major theme in its marketing campaigns. “We started featuring a lot of mommyand-me in our fall campaign

through social media and the response was terrific,” she says. “It has a relatable feel that engages customers of all ages.” Jacqueline Van Dine, vice president of merchandising for Birkenstock USA, says the company will take down a few bestselling sandal styles, including the Arizona and Gizeh in metallic copper and Mayari in mocha and silver. “We’re noticing an increasing number of our littlest customers wanting to look like older siblings and even parents,” she says. It’s a win-win scenario, she says. “Parents know firsthand

the quality, flexibility and all-day comfort Birkenstock provides and feel confident in purchasing mini-me styles for their kids,” Van Dine says. Stephanie Keyser, senior line builder for Dr. Scholl’s, a division of Caleres, anticipates its Original Collection to be a good fit with the takedown trend as well. She expects comfort-driven, slip-on sneakers in neutral to bright hues to be popular. Joules has also expanded its mini-me selection with coordinating slides for women and kids with signature colorways and floral details.

Ahead of the Pack Three-dimensional animals are popping up across boys’ and girls’ silhouettes. The Keds for Kate Spade New York collection, for example, will launch a slip-on style this spring featuring an adorable cat face on the toe cap, while Saucony is introducing new critters to its Baby Jazz Lite collection, including mythical creatures like mermaids and dragons. Dinosaurs motifs also roam the landscape of many styles. Laura Ashley’s Cairoli says fresh faces for its spring collection span

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Glitz Blitz First came the unicorn craze—images of the mystical creature galloping across clothes and accessories. Simple fashion logic dictates that sparkle and shine embellishments would follow. Look for lots of iridescent materials, glossy metallics and gobs of glitter for that “wow” factor. “Light or chunky, glitter is going to be big for Spring ’19,” says Keyser of Dr. Scholl’s. The line incorporates “bright and cheery” colorways, pops of neon, glittery accents, polka dot laces, sporty neoprene and 3-D flower embellishments. “We take what is trending and mix it with what we know kids like, what parents love and what’s sold well in previous seasons,” she says. The glitz blitz can also be traced to the major couture houses embracing the trend during Spring ’18 runway shows. Led by Tom Ford’s sparkling knickers and Marc Jacobs’ sequin-heavy outfits, Fendi, Halpern, Molly Goddard and, of course, Gucci went big on ’70s-era glitz. “As Gucci mania continues to take the industry by storm, high ornamentation seems to be the name of the game,” says Beatriz Camacho, retail director for Mini Melissa. Camacho says the jelly-based brand’s spring collection will feature gleaming feminine appeal with whimsical elements like butterflies, flowers, rainbows and, of course, plenty of glitter.

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kittens, puppies and bunnies. For Vida Kids, animal themes have always been a consistent bestseller, and next season expects to be no different. Palacio predict dinosaurs, dragons and safari wildlife to be popular in boys’, while llamas, cats and unicorns take preference in girls’.

feet love

JUMP S TA RT Move over, dad shoes. Spring kicks get sleek and sophisticated. PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOSEPH PLUCHINO STYLING BY DANI MORALES

Leather trainers by Clarks, Zara shirt and jacket, Topman trousers. Opposite: Florsheim perf sneaker, polo by Ted Baker. 58

From top: Hush Puppies suede/mesh jogger, GEOX woven cupsole, leather sneaker by Vionic, Johnston & Murphy two-tone trainer.

Clockwise from top: Kizik slip-on, Joules cupsole, trainer by Mephisto, Nico Nerini leather jogger. 60

Woven slip-ons by OluKai, Ted Baker jacket and pants, Zara shirt. Opposite: Topman shirt.

Lavender slides by Bearpaw, Cynthia Rowley sequined top and bottom, earrings by Wendy Faye.

Photography by Jamie Isaia Styling by Dani Morales

sweet, dreamy shades evoke an otherworldly place.

Vionic ruffle slide, Rachel Antonoff top, Mola Walker mint trousers, earrings by One Story. Opposite: Trainer by Cougar, COS top, Onarins pleated skirt. 64

From top: Bernardo slide, platform wedge by Dansko, Jewel by Badgley Mischka ankle-tie sandal, OluKai slip-on. Opposite: Patrizia by Spring Step floral wedge, jacket by Chiara Ferragni, Rachel Antonoff dress, Farradas Knits earrings, bracelet by Wendy.

Yellow sandal by Earth, jumpsuit by Chu Chu Loo, bralette by Onarins, One story earrings and bracelet by Wendy Faye. Opposite: Bill Blass mule, Sau Lee dress, cuff by One Story.

Left to right: BC cross-strap mule, Italian Shoemakers thong, wedge by Minnetonka. Opposite: CAT lug sole slip-on, dress by Pinko. Hair and makeup: Christina Nicole Errante; model: Ada/ Red Model Mgmt.

EDITOR’S PICKS

Badgley Mischka

Butter

D E S I G N E R C H AT

ELLE AYOUBZADEH HAS always been globally inspired, and the designs for her Zvelle collection of luxury crafted shoes are no different. A globetrotter, AyoubZadeh grew up in Dubai before spending time in Shiraz, Iran, then working beside artisans in New Zealand, Australia and Canada, as well as visiting factories in Spain, Brazil and Italy. “Instead of just going to one country and choosing a factory, I decided to visit many and spend time with a lot of factory owners,” AyoubZadeh says of developing Zvelle before its debut in 2015. The countries and cultures AyoubZadeh has experienced serve as inspiration for her collections, including her signature take on the Persian symbol “panj” for the numeral 5 that represents the five cities that have influenced her most. Aspects of Eastern architecture can be seen in silhouettes in the form of unique shapes and patterns where bold colors and charms meet playful lines. “Our shoes are works of art infused with love and personality that you can enjoy for years to come,” she says. “They are not just ‘shoes.’” The Persian Panj makes an appearance in the Spring ’19 collection in laser-cut Italian leather and suede and modern, clear PVC. The silhouettes are architectural, and colors are subdued to accent the shoes’ structure. Each style is named after a global woman who inspires AyoubZadeh. While the formal collection only features five styles, she plans to continue to release one-offs in the “Zvelle Way.” “We don’t have the pressure to launch as collections,” AyoubZadeh says. “We’ve launched a single style we believe in, and that’s something we’ll keep doing.” —Aleda Johnson Exactly what is the “Zvelle Way”? The best way to summarize the Zvelle Way is doing a gut check to see if it feels right for our company. We run our own race. We’re not trend-driven. When it comes to developing new silhouettes, I like to make sure that while it’s something fresh and modern it can still be worn five years from now. How’s business? When you’re a young and ambitious company you’re less concerned about macroeconomic trends and more about a slow and healthy build over the long run. At least that’s how we see it. It’s in tough environments that you get your best ideas 72 footwearplusmagazine.com • august 2018

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as constraints make you more creative. I also believe retailers are looking for new and unique brands, and we are looking for interesting ways to get in front of new audiences. Who is the quintessential Zvelle customer? Anyone who appreciates design, quality and craftsmanship; values who and how things are made; and is open to the world. We’re globally driven in every aspect. The Zvelle woman is not someone who fits in a box. She’s a Zaha Hadid, an Ava DuVernay, a Priyanka Chopra. She’s her own woman, and there are not enough words to describe her. Do heels still have a place in an athleisure world? As humans, we’ll always want to express ourselves in different ways at different times of our lives. I don’t see it as one or the other. I see them as complementary. Heels can be practical enough for someone who wants a little oomph but needs to stay in the same shoes for hours. Personally, I’m excited about all the opportunities.

Who are some designers you admire? Tory Burch. I have immense respect for her as a woman, entrepreneur and someone who has demonstrated a lot of class and talent. She has worked hard work over a long period of time. I also love what she is doing with her foundation. Brunello Cucinelli is another designer I admire for the way he has built his company. It’s how I would love to build my company, keeping the human spirit in the middle of everything. What do you love most about designing shoes? I love that every single style is about birthing an idea and sharing a story. Like any good story, designing a great shoe has twists and turns. The shoe business is full of those kinds of good stories. Where do you envision Zvelle in five years? I see us growing our style range and dressing our customer for more occasions in her life. I also want to expand our product categories. We’re very ambitious and patiently impatient.

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Floating on Air Floafers inject cool style into waterproof comfort.

On the Fast Traq The brand with the built-in pedometer is picking up the pace. DRIVEN BY FEW options while packing for a trip to the Bahamas, Hayes Brumbeloe first brainstormed Floafers (short for floating loafers) back in 2014. He envisioned something lightweight, versatile and easy to pack, not to mention something that could get wet without being ruined. A quick Google search showed the market was wide open, especially under the $50 price point. So Brumbeloe put his entrepreneurship degree to work with the launch of Floafers. “Floafers are for the fashion savvy, active lifestyle, outdoor-loving consumer,” Brumbeloe says. “They care about how they look—from the beach to the boardroom.” The key is style and function priced $29.99-$39.99 (kids) and $39.99-$59.99 for adults, according to Brumbeloe. “We’re modernizing the molded injection footwear space,” he says, noting that Floafers are rooted in functional footwear that dates back 100 years when brogue patterns were actual holes that allowed mud and water to drain out of men’s oxfords. “Over time broguing became ornamental, but we’re bringing that unique design idea full circle with functional, modern driving loafers and smoking slippers,” he says. Floafers is made of environmentally friendly, closed-cell, antimicrobial foam that is odor-free and waterproof. Sectional outsole pods made from a scuffproof material help prevent slipping while 360-degree ventilation keeps feet cool. “They are designed to go places most shoes can’t, which is a big part of our DNA,” Brumbeloe says. “Our shoes protect from odor- and stain-causing bacteria, mold and mildew—the stuff you worry about when flip-flops get wet or leather loafers that stink after a few wears without socks.” Floafers is expanding its collection for Spring ’19, including a kids’ driving moc available in 10 colors. Updated driving mocs for adults as well as tassel and bit penny loafer silhouettes for men are also new. Trendy white soles will be added to select styles to spice up the natural palette. In addition, a smoking loafer in orange and cherry tomato red will be available in women’s. Custom colors are also an option. “If a country club wants a certain color, we can do it because we don’t have to outsource for new leathers or materials,” Brumbeloe says. Having launched via a Kickstarter in February 2017 that, to date, has led to distribution in more than 41 countries, Floafers is making its formal industry debut at the FN Platform show this month. Brumbeloe has high expectations for continued growth, noting customers span a wide demographic. “They include grandmothers in the garden to families at the country club to college kids at tailgate parties,” he says. —Aleda Johnson 74 footwearplusmagazine.com • august 2018

AFTER A SUCCESSFUL women’s launch for this fall, Traq by Alegria, billed as the first comfort shoe with a built-in pedometer, is adding a men’s line as well as expanding its women’s collection for Spring ’19. CEO Luke Chen reports many Alegria retailers have been quick to jump on Traq. “Retailers have been clamoring for something exciting in the market, and the feedback we’ve received is beyond what we had expected,” he says. Chen attributes much of the initial success to its user-friendly design aspects. Traq shoes don’t need to be charged, the threeyear battery life (with everyday use) should outlast the shoes and the app allows users to create friend groups to track steps together. What’s more, Chen says the smart Q-Chip embedded in the sole that counts every step more is more accurate than other wearable technologies. “Research has shown that tracking steps is more accurate through the foot than wrist,” he says. The finishing touch, Chen adds, is Alegria’s comfort footbed, a combination of cork, polyurethane and memory foam that conforms to the natural contours of the feet. “We’re not reinventing the wearable technology wheel,” he says. “Instead, we’ve gone back to basics to give users a more accurate and simple experience. We purposely kept our app simple as we think that’s what our wearers appreciate.” With a suggested retail price $98.95-$119.95, Traq is priced similar to Fitbit bracelets. But Chen believes consumers get more bang for their buck with Traq shoes. “Add the comfort, support and technology to the mix at an entry price of $98.95, we believe the line will be a hit among men and women,” he says. The Spring ’19 collection continues on the athletic/casual aesthetic. Styles range from lace-up trainers to velcro Mary Jane flats with breathable Dream knit uppers, soft leathers and Lycra for ease of wear. “Our wide range of colors coupled with our interpretation of trends make for a winning combination,” Chen says. —AJ.

continued from page 17 much. He retains the DNA and puts a little fashion spin on it. That’s what makes it fresh, and why it’s so successful. The Match had only been produced in black, white and a bunch of brown leathers. Doing it in bright purple and mint green had his customers say, ‘Wow, that’s authentic and cool. I’m in.’ It’s a stamp of approval for Mephisto to have both these stores on board. Both happen to be brick-and-mortar retailers at heart. There are always going to be good stores, and the ones that are competing well are like Concepts and Sportie L.A. Tarek’s in the process right now of changing his store experience where it will be fewer brands but larger stories about each. Zappos and Nordstrom also provide strong platforms to tell brand stories. They invest in brands, and brands invest in them. It’s a two-way partnership. While it’s been a dark stretch for retail, might there be a silver lining? I don’t think it’s all bad. The better retailers will survive. They’re becoming more innovative and creative, and there’s absolutely a customer for that. People still like to shop. You’ve got to offer new and different experiences. Say, for example, you’re looking to buy a stereo. If you can’t go into a store to listen to a range of models while sitting comfortably in a sound room where you can sample a variety of speakers… Why would you go? You could just buy it online, instead. Retailers have the physical space— there’s a lot you can do in that world that you can’t do online. The good retailers are doing it, and the bad retailers are closing. Gazing into your crystal ball, what might the typical shoe store look like in five years? I think there will be less stock overall but more to learn. It’ll be more experience-driven. For example, I heard Nordstrom is talking with Tesla about putting their product into their stores to drive traffic. Canada Goose is opening a cold room in one of its flagships. That’s an experience you can’t get online. Exactly. Anything that gets consumers’ attention and drives them into the stores to experience the brand is a good thing. That includes a steady stream of new merchandise. Nobody wants to go into a store and see what they saw last season. Carryovers can be bought online. What’s your main goal for the remainder of this year? In addition to launching Mephisto Originals brand and partnering more closely with retailers, it’s to open two of our own stores in New York. We hope to open another in California early next year. We have 16 stores now, seven of which we own. We want to expand both our corporate- and partner-owned stores, We’ll also continue to focus and segment our product line. We’ve cut our SKUs down by nearly half since I’ve been here. We now have separate collections for wholesale and our stores. While they both have the same feel, we want them to be slightly different to give both channels some exclusivity and a reason for consumers to shop. Nor will consumers see 100 percent of our line on our website. Fewer SKUs also helps us with replenishment, because reorders are what makes retail successful. Initials are nothing, really. What do you love most about your job? I love the fact that Mephisto is a great family-owned brand that controls its production. I also love that there’s a huge amount of opportunity for Mephisto in the U.S. We don’t have a lot of competitors at our price point. We’re still the premium comfort brand in most stores. I also love our sales team—it’s one of the best I’ve experienced. Lastly, I love that we’re growing already. We’re moving our business in the right direction. •

THIS JUST IN

go with the flow Take that Lycra-lovers! Wide-leg pants add a flirty flounce to your step. Photography by Marcy Swingle 76 footwearplusmagazine.com â&#x20AC;˘ august 2018

continued from page 49 respective endeavors that I wouldn’t go back for anything,” says Mark, who now describes his role as “proud volunteer consigliere.”

balance not hurting people with doing what’s right for the business has been challenging. Our consultant talked one-on-one with each of us. Then she had me interview my kids and them BALANCING ACT interview me about our goals, dreams, fears For help working through the wrenching emoand our vision for the company. It’s helped us tional side of putting the family’s legacy into to be transparent with each other and to work younger hands—as well as the practical aspects through problems. of the process—an impartial third-party expert “I’m not a very patient guy, but I’ve had to learn can prove invaluable, as Farber, Beck and Schuler patience through this process,” he concedes. “It’s all discovered. best if this doesn’t happen fast because you’ve got “An outside person can function as a safe conto make sure it’s right. You’ve got to make sure fidant,” says consultant Nettifee. “People can say everyone’s on board, comfortable and happy. If things to me that they wouldn’t feel safe saying you don’t get everyone to share their feelings, it to each other because they’d be afraid of hurting can really backfire on you.” people’s feelings. A consultant gives you a place Schuler’s advice? “Don’t give up. You might California class: the Beck family where you can be honest. The right consultant think you can’t transition your business because of Beck’s Shoes. can also challenge you and help you grow in ways your kid doesn’t have the money or you don’t that can be hard for a family member to do.” know how. But there is a way to make it work,” he says. “Pick a person who For the Schuler family, having a consultant is not only facilitating is passionate about the business. Find out if they really want to take it over. dialogue but helping to move the transition forward while protecting Those are the two most important ingredients. If you have those, make it family ties. “The most important thing for us is that we come out of this clear to your son or daughter or kids that you really want to transition the transition with strong family relationships,” says Schuler, “but trying to business to them and remember that you can make it happen.” •

T R E N D S P OT T I N G

SILVERADO N a t u r e’s r u n n e r - u p m e t a l l i c s h i n e s b r i g h t f o r s p r i n g . 1. OTBT 2. Hush Puppies 3. Naot 4. BC 5. Cougar 6. Trask 7. Butter

78 footwearplusmagazine.com • august 2018

P HOTO G RAP HY BY TR EVETT MCC AN DL I SS; P R O P STY L IN G BY R O BI N Z AC HA RY

L A S T WO R D

Porto of Call

The Power of Portugal Luís Onofre, president of APICCAPS, on how the country is ramping up to meet growing American demand. By Greg Dutter IT’S NO SECRET the shoe sourcing sands are shifting. Rising costs, quicker lead times, higher quality and lower minimums are just some of the factors contributing to the search for sourcing partners beyond Asia. Toss in a growing trade war between the United States and China and it’s little wonder that up-andcoming areas (think East Africa and India) as well as established ones like Italy, Brazil and Portugal are picking up business. It’s a leading reason why APICCAPS, Portugal’s footwear manufacturing association, is going all out to position the country as a premier sourcing partner to American manufacturers and retailers. It’s a two-pronged approach, according to Luís Onofre, president of APICCAPS. First, it involves attracting young people to Portugal’s footwear industry. “We’re developing strategies to attract a new generation of talent who will allow the renewal of the Portuguese footwear industry and ensure the competitive future of the companies,” he says, adding, “Across the globe, industries are facing the same reality, and it is time to act by presenting our industries as true options for young people.” Secondly, it’s selling the quality and capabilities of Portugal’s shoemaking abilities to the world—particularly the U.S. “We’re investing to open new markets for the Portuguese footwear industry,” Onofre says. “The U.S., our main footwear importer, will be our top priority for the next decade.” Here, Onofre reveals specifics to the plan and why, as a third-generation shoemaker and CEO/designer of his namesake fashion company, he firmly believes in the power of Portuguese-made footwear. As president of APICCAPS for a little over year, how would you assess your time so far? We’ve implemented several important activities. We’ve launched a ¤50-million investment plan to prepare the footwear sector for a digital transformation. We organized the UITIC (International Union of Shoe Industry Technicians) congress in partnership with CTCP (Portuguese Footwear Technological Center) in Porto last May that was attended by more than 500 international delegates. APICCAPS and CTCP have created a new ecosystem consisting of about 70 entities that will, in the coming years, develop new skills, equipment and technical solutions for our industry. The aim is to make the Portuguese footwear industry the most modern in the world. Lastly, we’ve launched a huge marketing campaign in the U.S. What makes Portugal an attractive sourcing partner for U.S. suppliers? The Portuguese footwear industry is known for the excellence of its products. It combines tradition and know-how accumulated over several generations to the most modern technologies, always giving attention to the latest trends. As a result of this priceless combination of elements, Portuguese footwear companies have the ability to position themselves in

80 footwearplusmagazine.com • august 2018

the market with a clear advantage over their competitors, offering excellent products at highly competitive prices. What is the potential for growth in the U.S.? The U.S. market is currently the most important destination for Portuguese footwear outside Europe. In recent years, exports to the U.S. have consistently increased, reaching a record in 2017 (¤70 million). But that’s still quite below our potential. Our best estimates point to the possibility of doubling exports to the U.S. in the next five years. How might the growing trade war between the U.S. and China affect Portugal as a sourcing partner? A basic way of looking at this is if Chinese products get more expensive that would benefit other countries selling to the U.S., including Portugal. However, Portugal specializes in a higher segment of products, and we don’t really see China as a direct competitor. Even though China is still responsible for two-thirds of the world’s exports, Portugal is a supplier of high-quality products for the most demanding international markets. That aside, it’s our belief that trade wars are never positive for anyone. In the end, consumers will pay higher prices for the same products. What’s the biggest challenge facing the Portuguese footwear industry? Although we export 95 percent of our annual production to 152 countries across five continents, for many years Europe has accounted for an Luís Onofre excessive proportion. Thus, the search for new, non-EU markets is one of our top priorities, which is why more than 180 Portuguese companies are taking part in roughly 60 industry events around the world. This effort will continue in the coming years. Where do you envision Portugal’s footwear manufacturing capabilities in 10 years? From the standpoint of our installed capacity, our production should stabilize at around 80 million pairs per year. We believe, however, that in this scenario, there’s potential for the sales of own branded footwear to expand. As a designer, what do you consider to be the most important aspects of shoemaking? The passion for the work we do, which inevitably results in the development of unique and genuine products. The world has been crazy for sneakers of late. Do you foresee traditional styles making a comeback? Fashion is evolution, progress and rupture. But it’s also inspired by revivalist tendencies. Whatever the trend— more classic or younger—my personal belief is that Portuguese footwear companies are well prepared to respond to all these market challenges. Is there perfect shoe, and what might it be? Portuguese-made shoes! I love this opportunity to represent an industry with such a rich tradition, unlimited ambition and a brilliant future ahead.

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