Footwear Plus | April/May 2019

A P R I L / M AY 2 0 1 9

Beauty & The Boots Chelseas: The New Closet Staple

VAU LT V I P Kelly Hibler Unlocking Reebok Classics W HAT’S PL AY I NG Kids’ Fall Review F IT TO PRINT Craig Truscott on the Rise of Revere THI S J UST IN Budapest in Bloom

APRIL / MAY 2019 Caroline Diaco President/Group Publisher Greg Dutter Editorial Director Nancy Campbell Trevett McCandliss Creative Directors EDITORIAL Aleda Johnson Assistant Editor

Easy Street Bernardo

Emily Beckman Assistant Editor Kathy Passero Editor at Large Kirstin Koba Contributing Editor Melodie Jeng Marcy Swingle Contributing Photographers ADVERTISING/ PRODUCTION

Chooka

Jennifer Craig Associate Publisher Kork-Ease

Laurie Guptil Production Manager

Aetrex

Bruce Sprague Circulation Director Mike Hoff Digital Director Ana Novikova Office Administration

PA G E

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9THREADS CORPORATE

Softinos

Xen Zapis Founder 1926-2018 Lee Zapis CEO

DEPA RT M EN TS

F E AT UR E S 10 Ticking All the Boxes Craig Truscott, co-founder and director of Revere, on building the brand one sit-and-fit retailer at a time. By Greg Dutter 18 So Pumped!

Tapping into Reebok Classics’ rich archives, Vice President Kelly Hibler reveals the enticing blend of reissues and fresh interpretations on the way. By Greg Dutter

22 Let’s Get Small Kids’s fall review: Velvet to Chelseas, the season’s key silhouettes, materials and embellishments.

By Emily Beckman

4 Editor’s Note

On cover: Burnished Chelsea boots by Blundstone, top and skirt by Smythe and jeans by Blank NYC.

6 This Just In 8 Scene & Heard 16 Trend Spotting 20 A Note to My Younger Self

26 Chelsea Girl Subtle tweaks and trendy

21 What‘s Selling

twists elevate the new closet staple.

38 Upclose Comfort

By Aleda Johnson

40 Last Shot

36 Shoe Salon

Rich Bongorno Chief Financial Officer Debbie Grim Controller OFFICES ADVERTISING/EDITORIAL

Photography

by Jamie Isaia; styling by Dani Morales; hair and makeup: Christina Nicole Errante; model: Danielle Dorchester/Q Management; stylist assistant: Kiyana Panton.

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FOOTWEAR PLUS ™ (ISSN#1054-898X) The fashion magazine of the footwear industry is published monthly (except for bimonthly April/May and October/November editions) by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, 214 W. 39th St., Suite 205., New York, NY, 10018. The publishers of this magazine do not accept responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage is paid in New York, NY, and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: $48.00 in the U.S. Rates oustide the U.S. are available upon request. Single copy price: $10.00.

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®

EDITOR’S NOT E

Change Agents

Meet the Transformers

C

OMMUTERS WERE CRAMMED together like cattle itching to stampede in Penn Station as I awaited the track announcement for my train to Washington, D.C. for the annual Footwear Distributors and Retailers of America (FDRA) summit recently. Behind me in the stuffy, crowded holding pen were two late forty–something dads. I couldn’t help but overhear their rants about their kids’ shortcomings: Addicted to smartphones and video games, poor grades and study habits, no interest in playing sports, aimless, distant, lazy, bored, won’t even set the table for dinner—let alone be dragged away from electronics to eat with the family. Exasperation oozed from beneath their matching black trench coats paired with matching black briefcases. Their matching shoulders sloped downward, as if they were resigned to the fracturing of their families. Everything about them was dark and depressing.

Their attitude reminded me of our industry. It, too, has been dark and depressing of late. Call it Dark Ages 2.0. Divisiveness is the new black as the industry retreats to its respective corners of private label and direct-to-consumer business models. The so-called retail apocalypse is very real and deadly, triggering epic downsizings, liquidations and bankruptcies—often with crushing debt as an accelerant. But I was heading to an industry summit where the theme was “transformation,” so I was optimistic. I hoped to hear about solutions.

Signs were promising: My train left on time. I snagged a window seat. It was a beautiful spring day and I could listen to the (then second place) Orioles. Life was good—enough. The swamps of Jersey whipped by, we rolled past the City of Brotherly Love’s gleaming skyline, followed by a spiffed-up Baltimore (much improved since my last train ride). I arrived in our nation’s capital to find the sun setting on a balmy evening with the cherry trees in full blossom.

The following morning Matt Priest, president of FDRA, got the conference started with a touching tribute to Jon Epstein, president of Fila North America, who died suddenly in February at the age of 63.

(Epstein had been scheduled to speak at the summit.) His company has been riding the wave of success generated by its Disruptor, the wildly popular and more affordable take on the dad’s sneaker trend. Fila represented a beacon of possibilities—a brand that had fallen on hard times and, despite dire market conditions, made a roaring comeback.

Priest described Epstein as “transformative,” an exec with endless energy

who charged straight into crises rather than duck and run for cover. He will be missed, and kudos to Priest on an inspiring eulogy.

Next up, Tim Boyle, president and CEO of Columbia Sportswear.

Boyle, in an informal Q&A with Priest, recalled how he inherited the then family owned hat distributor following the sudden death of his father in 1970. A senior in college, Boyle had no choice but to join his mother and rescue the company from bankruptcy. Columbia Sportswear is now a multi-billion-dollar public company featuring an array of leading outdoor brands. Boyle credited its success to bringing in outside expertise early on and embracing new ideas and methods.

It’s a philosophy the company embraces to this day.

Diane Sullivan, CEO of Caleres, then discussed the company’s transformative 2015 name change after 137 years as Brown Shoe.

What struck me most was her aside about it being okay to “fail fast.”

Mistakes are inevitable in the search for solutions that will transform a business. Better to test and tweak on the fly than to leave ideas in the planning room and never know if they had merit.

David Kahan, CEO of Birkenstock Americas, followed, explaining that the 245-year-old brand has gone through more transformative change in the past six years than in the previous two centuries combined. Kahan opened by singing a few lines from the Bob Dylan classic The Times They Are A-Changin’. The message: Change is a must or “you’ll sink like a stone,” as the lyrics warn. The results of Birkenstock’s efforts to transform while retaining its unique brand traits speak for themselves.

Finally, Greg Tunney, president of Hush Puppies, talked about how predictive analytics are transforming parent company Wolverine Worldwide into a consumer-centric organization. Tunney cited three essentials: innovation, creativity and risk, with risk serving as the catalyst for the first two. Echoing Sullivan, he mentioned the need for Wolverine to “fail fast” by taking more risks to keep up with fastmoving consumers seeking the latest goods. That’s where predictive analytics come into play. According to Tunney, the old “we saw a shoe, we had a hunch, we bought a bunch and hoped like hell it sold” has given way to quantified data mined from consumers to cut down on expensive guesswork. Showing select consumers products, price points and marketing campaigns beforehand led to 40 percent less inventory and 40 percent fewer markdowns on Hush Puppies’ latest collection. Those are some transformative stats! Data analytics, Tunney noted in closing, allow one to predict the future. Now that’s transformation on steroids!

Greg Dutter

Editorial Director

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www.gabor.de Purveyors of premium European comfort footwear

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THIS JUST IN

budapest in Bloom Spring sprung in a sweet bouquet of colors during Budapest Central European Fashion Week in Hungary.

Photography by Melodie Jeng

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SCENE & HEARD

Go Take a Hike—with Kids

Mephisto Teams with Sam Linder MEPHISTO VENTURED OUT of its comfort zone recently, creating custom designs for Sam Linder’s Fall/Winter ’19 runway show. The French brand created two-tone pumps and Mary Janes in exclusive colors and leathers, while the designer also chose existing styles—like the Match, the brand’s top-selling walking style—to harmonize with his creations. Considered by industry experts to be as much a visual artist as a fashion designer, Linder sought out Mephisto for its combination of longevity and craftsmanship.

“Mephisto is world-renowned for creating footwear that is comfortable, but also fashionable and can stand on its own as a unique accompaniment to both work and evening wear,” says James Rowley, president of Mephisto USA. “Sam Linder’s collection focused on the creation of separates that could stand on their own versus part of an overall pre-conceived look, juxtaposing wardrobe elements, like workwear with evening wear, and fabrics—moleskin with satin, for example—to create personalized, distinctive ‘self-collages.’” Beyond that, Rowley believes the two labels just match up well. “We share the belief that style is very personal, interpretive, ever-evolving and unique to each of us,” he says, adding that the collaboration breaks down comfort barriers. “Any time you transcend the stigma of ‘comfort can’t be fashionable,’ it’s a great thing. Sam Linder made that point when he said, ‘No one in fashion gives a (damn) about comfort...until they have to walk 20 blocks in New York.’”

Rowley says the strong response has led to a Mephisto x Linder wholesale collaboration in the works for Spring ’20. It’s a project Mephisto is more than eager to pursue. “We’re always open to working with like-minded brands to expand our reach to new consumers,” he says, noting it falls right in line with its #MephistoWalks campaign launched last year. “We’ve been focusing on initiatives to reach a younger, more fashion-conscience audience,” Rowley says. “The Linder collaboration is further proof that, yes, Mephisto is fashionable comfort that’s recognized by top designers.”

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MERRELL AND HIKE IT BABY signed a twoyear partnership to develop footwear, re-sources and outdoor experiences to encourage parents and children to hit the trail.

The goal is to demonstrate how accessible hiking can be for families with babies and young children, says Bornie Del Priore, president, Kids Group of Wolverine Worldwide.

“Joining forces with Hike it Baby around a shared passion for the outdoors will enable us to better outfit and support trailblazing little ones,” Del Priore says. “It also provides an outlet for our retail partners to tap into their local communities and make authentic connections with consumers.”

The partnership kicked off in April when Hike It Baby held its biannual Hike It Baby 30, a fundraiser and membership-based virtual challenge to encourage families

worldwide to get their children outside more often. Winners received Merrell shoes. Shanti Hodges, founder of Hike It Baby, looks forward to working with Merrell.

“We’ll be able to offer our community more content and opportunities to work with Merrell on design, testing and development of its kids’ footwear collection,” she says.

Speaking of which, Merrell is introducing a new Hut Moc ($50 SRP), featuring a Hike It Baby Busy Hiker print. Part of its Bare Steps toddler collection, the Hut Moc is designed for the natural shape of a child’s foot and offers extra wiggle room.

Available in sizes 4-10, M-W, the shoe features Merrell’s M Select Grip rubber outsole for durability and traction. Merrell will also be feature Hike It Baby families as part of its Fall ’19 marketing campaign.

Punk Crocs Live!

CROCS’ CAYMAN CLOG—commonly worn by gardeners, chefs and soccer moms—has received a punk rock makeover, thanks to the DYI imagination of New York-based Instagram user, Chris Snyder (@garbage b0y), and his cousin, Paul Cantrell (@lhommeboy), a budding Seattle fashion designer. Dubbed Goth Crocs, the chainand spike-adorned clogs, in black (natch), are trending on social media and sales are picking up on the designers’ Etsy page. As of press time, 35 pairs have sold at $260 a pop! Not a bad markup for the recently listed $23.99 style, on sale from its regular $39.99 price tag.

“People love to hate Crocs, and I was really into exaggerating the wallet chain trend,” Snyder says. “So I thought: Crocs paired with a wallet chain and pretend Hot Topic made them. That would get people mad.”

Throw in punk spikes, which Snyder had laying around from a previous art project, and a prototype was born. However,

Snyder liked his creation so much that he nixed the Hot Topic part of the meme and decided to sell them. The Etsy page states the patent-pending Goth Crocs “make your feet into the final form rare Pokémon they were meant to be.”

Any response from Crocs? Snyder says no, although he suspects the company is aware of the style. “My guess is it’s not on-brand for them, but the press must be helping nicely,” he says, adding that his partner is working on a more luxurious version, which will feature a ripple sole, higher quality studs and spikes, and 3D elements. This is not this the design duo’s first shoe-themed meme. They are the creators of the Bananciaga sneaker, made entirely of banana peels that spoof the label’s popular Triple S style. Goth Crocs take their shoe modification art to a wearable level. “I never thought I’d get much attention for fashion,” Snyder says. “I wouldn’t be surprised if Crocs made more money than us off this.”

BY

Ticking All the Boxes C r a i g Tr u s c o t t , co-founder and director of Revere, on building the brand one sit-andfit retailer at a time.

AS FAR AS launching a comfort brand in the United States goes, Revere has been ticking all the boxes—and then some. Unique styling: check. Proprietary comfort technology: check.

Open stock program: check. Clean distribution: check. Strong margins: check. Revere just might be one of the most methodical and thorough brand introductions to date. The fact that the launch is being piloted by two former comfort specialty retailers, husbandand-wife duo Craig and Annie Truscott, has a lot to do with making sure every detail—from consumer-facing product details to retailerfocused backroom mechanics—is attended to since its debut in Australia in 2012 and landing in the U.S. in 2016.

Revere’s checklist began during its in utero stage, when the Truscotts had a ringside seat in their Australian-based stores, listening daily to

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G REG

customers talk about what they liked, needed, craved and disliked in their shoe purchases.

The Truscotts also monitored their array of comfort brands, seeing what sold, what didn’t and, perhaps equally important, how each brand treated its retail partner. “When we looked at what other brands were doing, we thought, ‘Wow, we could do something pretty special here,’” Truscott says.

It being Australia, where the weather is warm year-round, the initial feedback screamed for a better-looking and more comfortable sandal. Specifically, one with great materials, a terrific fit and a supportive footbed that could be removed for custom orthotics and fit inserts. On top of that, the Truscotts created Revere’s unique fit adjustability technology— every style with a Velcro closure includes strap extenders in the box that enables wearers to discreetly adjust the strap (up to just over a half inch) to accommodate a wider foot or, say, a bunion. “We can take a medium fit and turn it into a wide with our strap extenders,” Truscott says, noting it’s a win-win for retailers and consumers. “Consumers love it because it doesn’t take away from the styling yet it provides them with more fit capability, and retailers love it because they don’t have to inventory as many width sizes.” What’s more, Truscott says the adjustability feature adds brand value. “It takes away the reason for a consumer not to buy and it provides theater in the store, customizing the fit right in front of them,” he says.

The Truscotts tested Revere through medical facilities before going to retail. As a partner in Global Footcare—distributors of Revere, Vionic and Vasyli, among other foot wellness brands in Australia, New Zealand and Singapore— Truscott had access to an extensive network of pedorthists, podiatrists and orthopedists who recommended Revere to patients with foot issues. “It helped establish brand credibility and it got us on the feet of people who took advantage of our features and benefits,” he says. “It ticked all the boxes, and once we got momentum, we targeted sit-and-fit stores.”

Revere also zeroed in on its core assortment strategy. “Seasonal ranges can be challenging because, coming into a season, you don’t have

D U T TER

the consistency of what worked well the previous year when it comes to pricing and markdowns,” Truscott explains. “A high percentage of core carryover stock is great in reducing markdowns. It also allows us to invest in inventory and carry those lines open stock year-round, which is great for retailers because they can drive sell-through without the inventory risk.”

The Truscotts speak the language of comfort shoe retailing fluently. They know from firsthand experience what those retailers want, need and like best from a wholesale partner.

It comes across instantly, which Truscott says has helped get many partnerships started.

Still, breaking into the U.S. market—one jampacked with established players all vying for dwindling shelf space amid epic disruption— has been no easy task, he says. Revere has had to earn every account. In fact, Truscott says the biggest challenge to getting started was simply being given a chance. “Retailers would often say, ‘We really like what you’re doing, but we want to see the evolution of the brand and make sure you’re going to be around in a couple of

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seasons, so let’s keep in touch,’” he recalls. “We heard a lot of that, regardless of the fact that we’d been established since 2012 in Australia.”

Truscott, however, understands retailers’ caution. Brands come and go, especially new ones that lack backroom logistics and financing to deliver season to season. Why dabble only to get burned? “It’s a big investment for wellestablished retailers to take on a new brand,” he says. “They’ve got to invest in staff training and presentation. They have to justify giving that shelf space to that brand as opposed to others they already carry.”

Truscott says the early reluctance only made him more determined to break through. For starters, he and his wife gave up “a lot” when they uprooted their lives, leaving their two adult daughters and friends behind when they moved to Santa Monica, CA, to launch Revere in 2015. (They have since set up shop in West Palm Beach, FL, and recently opened a new distribution center in Hickory, NC.) There was no chance they’d pack it in after a few tough sell-in seasons. Driven by the brand’s unique adjustable fit story combined with a “developed by retailers for retailers” business model and a strong reception Down Under, the Truscotts believed the potential in the U.S. was promising.

But for Revere to launch properly, they had to convey the story in person. “It’s really important that our entrenched brand values be communicated directly by us,” Truscott says. “The story wouldn’t have come across if we’d hired an agent or a distributor to do it on our behalf.” It starts with the belief that Revere is not “just another comfort brand.” If it were, it would have never gotten off the launch pad. “There’s no way we’d be here if we were launching nothing special,” he says. “We have a great fitting and comfort story; there’s a lot behind the brand that resonates with retailers and consumers.”

The Truscotts could have taken the easy route.

They could have stayed in Australia, where Global Footcare continues to hum along and their stores had been holding their own. Life was good. They didn’t have to uproot their lives and launch Revere in the most established and competitive market in the world. But despite occasional “I could have been relaxing on a beach back home instead” moments in the early days, Truscott says the tribulations have been worth it. “I feel most proud when I walk into these generational sit-and-fit stores and see Revere on the shelf,” Truscott says. “It tells me we’re heading in the right direction and that we’re here for the long term.”

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As you’ve stated, the world doesn’t need “just another comfort brand.” What exactly makes Revere special?

First, we pride ourselves on styling, which is core but our materials set us apart. We’re not doing just black or brown Napa leather. We source interesting leathers that feature lots of metallics and animal prints. The market has embraced our approach, and we’re going to build on that. Our fitting story is also unique and can be easily communicated and demonstrated. The strap extenders are discreet, which was often why customers didn’t buy shoes in our stores—

ness through training. When they’d come into our stores and work with our team. The fact that we could also have top-to-top discussions about matters like distribution and inventory were also important. If we were selling through something fast, how quick could we get back to it? And if things weren’t working, was there any help that they could provide? Co-op dollars was another like. Really, it was just all the little things—the mechanics that, in my opinion, you need in place for any retailer to have success with any brand. That’s what we’ve included with Revere.

OFF THE CUFF What are you reading? Here It Is by Paul Roos. I’m a big fan of Australian Rules Football.

He’s a legendary ex-player, and his principles in coaching have been very successful.

Rule No. 1? Stay focused.

Despite everything going on around us, it’s about remaining focused on what we do and what we can control to succeed.

What was the last movie you saw? Green Book.

What was your first-ever paying job? Working in my family’s electronics stores. I sold TVs, hi-fi systems, fridges, washers

and dryers, and dishwashers.

I can still put together a stereo cabinet in minutes!

What is the smartest business decision you’ve ever made? Getting out of the corporate life. I used to work for Foot Locker in Australia, which I loved. But choosing to start my own business has been even better.

Most coveted dinner guest? Michael Jordan.

What are you most proud of? My family.

Jay Z and Beyoncé sang happy birthday to me. My wife and I were celebrating with friends at a restaurant in Napa Valley. When my birthday cake came out, I got a tap on my shoulder and they’d come over to sing. That was pretty special!

Your motto? Get busy.

Favorite hometown memory? I’m from Adelaide, Australia, and it’s hanging around the pool with my family. I look back on those times and smile.

What might people be surprised to know about you? On my 40th birthday,

because it looked ugly with the Velcro visible.

With retailers wanting to provide in-store experiences, we believe our fitting features do that.

But we’re not just an adjustable brand. Because of our experience working with doctors, we focus on many types of support across a range of styles. Not only do we fit and look great, but our support is phenomenal as well.

As a former retailer, what were some of the non-product related aspects that you’ve incorporated into Revere?

We liked when vendors invested into our busi-

For example?

Like our open stock program and not requiring case pack orders. When I was a retailer, I didn’t want to be told that I had to buy size 11s and 12s if I was out of size 7s and 8s. Our business model is designed to help a retailer grow the brand within their business. A big part of that also involves a responsible distribution strategy. That’s top of mind for every U.S. retailer I talk to. In fact, asking about our distribution strategy is often the first question—before pricing. The second question: Do you sell direct to Amazon? We’ve taken a very cautious approach when it comes

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to ecommerce and have chosen not to sell direct to Amazon. And while we have an ecommerce site, it’s primarily a platform to promote our entire range of product and a resource for consumers to learn about Revere and link to our store locator. Our site is not promotional. We’re always at MAP pricing.

We aren’t a competitor to our retail partners. We’re a trusted brand partner.

How is Revere different from, say, Vionic?

Vionic’s story is built on their podiatrist-designed footbed technology, whereas Revere’s focus is our fit story. Also, Vionic built their business starting with a flip-flop made of synthetic uppers at a $100 price point. Revere is a midto premium-price range at $130 to $190. That aside, I’m still a partner in Global Footcare and very fortunate to distribute Vionic in Australia, New Zealand and Singapore. Some of my greatest footwear mentors and friends have come through that organization. I love doing business with those guys, and I love the brand. I believe Revere fits beautifully side by side with it.

Who is Revere’s target customer?

It’s a bit of a Benjamin Button story for us as she’s gotten younger. When we launched in 2012, we targeted the 55-plus market and were more conservative in styling and materials. But with my wife heading up our product development team, we’ve since expanded our selection well beyond sandals and have updated out materials and styling. She has an extensive footwear fashion background, and she’s helped us become a year-round brand. Our

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customer now is 40-plus. She’s outgoing and understands at that stage in her life that comfort is important, but she’s not going to compromise on style.

She doesn’t want to be wearing an orthopedic-looking shoe.

Has Revere officially moved on from startup status in the U.S.?

I’d like to think we’re well over the hump of being a startup. We’ve done a lot of the heavy lifting and we’ve expanded the product line to year-round.

We also moved into our own distribution facility last year and our customers are seeing the benefits of quicker delivery times and more cost-effective shipping fees. It was a big move, but it’s been a real game changer for us. Overall, the boxes are certainly being ticked that we can be a good and profitable partner for our retailers.

Having experience working for other startups, would you say Revere has come a long way in under three years?

Absolutely! We started with two employees, my wife and I—and our dog at our feet—in a second bedroom office in our apartment in Santa Monica. Living in California was a stepping stone and part of the transition deal with Annie.

If she needed to see our girls, it was only one flight. We then did our due diligence and realized Florida made sense for Revere’s headquarters. We make lots of sandals, the climate is similar to Australia and it’s a business-friendly state. Now we have a total of 16 employees between our offices in West Palm Beach and Hickory. One of our best hires of late was Brian Alves as national

sales manager, who joined last May. He had a great career with Clarks for about 18 years. He’s added direction to our team, and the quality of doors that we’re now in and are about to be shows that the wheels are turning for us.

Moving halfway around the world to introduce a new brand into an entrenched market is tough enough. Then the retail apocalypse and...

When we moved here in 2015, Amazon wasn’t even doing business in Australia.

So we didn’t fully comprehend its impact on retail. It was a baptism of fire for us. However, Amazon wasn’t a huge focus because our fit story doesn’t translate as well online. We want to grow our business initially in sit-andfit stores. That’s where we believe Revere can offer great value to retailers and consumers. Amid all the disruption, our approach has been to stay focused, take small steps and keep our ears open. I had a saying when I worked retail: All the answers are in the stores. Consumers tell you what they like or dislike about whatever you’re doing. The same applies to retailers. We’re always listening so we can react, if needed.

Can this channel grow in this climate?

I believe successful comfort specialty stores that have a balanced approach of branded and private label product as well as cross between comfort, athletic and work categories can. Diversification is part of the DNA of being a successful retailer these days. I’m a big believer in that you don’t swing the pendulum too far one way or the other. You can’t go from being a branded business to a complete private label business or vice versa. You’ve got to find that middle ground. I’m very optimistic about the independent comfort market in general. At recent trade shows, I’ve felt more energy and enthusiasm about what the potential is for those stores. Three or four years ago, it was too easy to blame their troubles on Amazon. I think people are now making changes in their businesses, and that’s a good sign.

How’s Revere’s business of late?

When you’re working off little to no base, percentages don’t make much sense.

So we’re measuring ourselves on a double-double strategy, which has been going well. I’ve challenged us to continue to double our business year-to-year in existing accounts, and that’s mostly by doubling SKUs. We’ve been >37

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What have you heard from your retail partners of late?

First off, I’m glad we got involved with the NSRA and USRA early on. It’s allowed us to network with some of the best independent retailers in the country. That said, I find there’s a lot of noise out there, but it’s the retailer that listens to the market and creates a unique shopping experience that’s succeeding. While there are people who want to shop online, especially in the younger fashion arena, there are plenty that still want to shop in stores.

They want to be serviced properly—to have their feet measured and identify what are the most appropriate shoes for them. Do they need a medium

or wide with? Do they have any foot issues that need to be addressed? The sit-and-fit environment has enormous potential, and I believe if you offer great product, pride yourself on terrific service and provide a nice shopping environment, those customers will come—and they’ll tell their friends to as well. I don’t see it as being all doom-and-gloom. I’m an optimist by nature, but I also know you can’t keep doing the same thing over and over. You have to evolve in what is a very fast-changing environment.

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HEEL NO! Dainty flats are lady-like without the fuss.

Clockwise from top left: Restricted, Madeline, Gabor, Seychelles.

16 footwearplusmagazine.com • april/may 2019

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Archive Envy

SO PUMPED! K e l l y H i b l e r, v i c e p r e s i d e n t o f R e e b o k C l a s s i c s , o n t a p p i n g i n t o t h e b r a n d ’s r i c h a r c h i v e s f o r a n e n t i c i n g b l e n d o f m e n u s t a p l e s , c h o i c e collaborations and fresh reinterpretations. By Greg Dutter

KELLY HIBLER HAS been given the keys to the Reebok archives kingdom, and he’s feasting on the potential. The former long-time Nike exec has been given carte blanche to forage deep and wide, cooking up a rich menu of classic Reebok styles released over the past four decades to be reissued and/or reimagined for second lives with original fans as well as new generations of consumers.

“There’s about 10 to 12 styles that really matter in the industry and Reebok has a handful of those, and that’s super rare,” Hibler says. “To work on shoes that are so well-known and have stood the test of time, as well as so many other great styles in the archives is an amazing opportunity.”

Hibler uprooted his West Coast lifestyle last August, moving to Boston and leaving Nike after 28 years, where he was most recently vice president of Global Basketball Footwear. During his tenure, he oversaw the top two signature basketball franchises as well as managed leading lifestyle businesses. As head of Reebok Classics he leads product creation, marketing, merchandising and distribution. He relishes the soup to nuts role. “A smaller brand allows me the chance to do things I wouldn’t have gotten to do otherwise,” he says, believing the sky’s the limit for Reebok. Between the brand’s extensive archives as well as a steady stream of performance models that only need to ruminate, Hibler sees no shortage of products to introduce now and down the road. “There’s a lot of gems in the archives that haven’t even been dusted off yet,” he says.

Here, Hibler talks about how he plans to make those gems shine again as well as serves up some nuggets of sneaker wisdom to nosh on.

When you looked deep into the Reebok archives, what’s the first thing that came to mind? How rich of a history it is. For example, a Pump Fury is as real and fast today, and I can only imagine what it must have been like when it first came out 25 years ago. I’ve done a lot of digging into that history. Reebok made some of the first trail shoes—blending the purples and pinks with the browns—and they were great. It was a point in time in the category, and it was everywhere.

The Freestyle was another point in time. Yes. There’s a lot more, like the Classic Leather, Workout and Club C. A bunch of tennis pros used to wear

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the latter and, in today’s world, it’s just a great casual sneaker. Unlike back in the day, however, when consumers just wanted the OG—don’t change the leather, the lace, not anything—today’s consumer is also receptive to new takes on a classic. The sky’s wide open for what you can do with heritage. Instead of it just being a reissue, adding a modern design element can capture the consumer’s attention. That takes you from a finite archive to an aperture of, ‘Oh my goodness, we have so much more!’

Vans, a classics-driven brand, is forecasted to be a $5-billion business within five years. What’s your take on the potential growth for Reebok Classics? Vans shows that growth is doable, and they’ve done it the right way. I’m using a similar recipe with Reebok: Who’s our consumer, what do they covet and what inspires them. It requires going to a city and/or neighborhood and diving deep to discover what drives them, and then telling rich, deep narratives. We can do that with this brand. Think of the arsenal, like Allen Iverson, Shaq and Reebok’s NFL days—all this classic product. Kids today sniff when you’re making stuff up, but the beauty of Reebok is it’s a real history. It’s up to us to translate it in a way that consumers say, ‘Wow, that’s great! I didn’t know that they made that.’ It’s done through amazing stories—like Vans has told to women through material and color.

It can be as simple as that, but you must do it right to connect. It just takes focus, energy and time.

When will retailers see product that you’ve worked on from scratch?

That usually takes about nine months. In the meantime, there’s been a great team in place and there’s good products coming between now and mine.

We’re super-positioned on what’s going to hit over the course of the next six months. Then we’ll go deep on colors and materials, and we’ll move fast because that’s how consumers move today.

How important will collabs be to this recipe going forward? Collabs are an integral part of the way consumers translate any brand today. It’s a great way to connect not just to our core consumers but also how we can pull new ones into the brand. We’re spending extra time to pick the right partners to make sure they align with who we are and so consumers won’t say, ‘I don’t

get why these two brands go together.’ Then we’ll spend extra time to make sure the product is great. People I’ve worked with over the years have often asked me, ‘Can we do that?’ My response is, ‘Of course!’ That’s one of the fun aspects about Reebok—they’re unafraid to be unconventional.

Adidas as a parent company helps in your efforts, correct? Obviously, it’s a luxury to have a parent company of that size. One of the things that we’re always told is it’s one company with two brands. Internally, everyone is trying to help each other, which is great. We’re all focused on how to do better at what we do.

Any signs this golden age of sneaker culture is losing its luster? No! Sneakers are as healthy as they’ve ever been. Look on any street and see what people are wearing—it’s no shock that sneaker business is really good, and I see little reason why it won’t continue. Part of that is because the industry has evolved. Look at the broad range of styles that now come in sneaker forms, whereas had that performance box never evolved, then maybe I’d be a little worried. Shoes today must work as well as look great. It’s more challenging for designers, because sometimes the tech aspect leads you into a new space and it looks cool, but sometimes it’s not the right look. You have to make sure First launched in 1993, the Aztrek Double, out this fall, features a chunkier outsole. it works both ways.

After all these years in the sneaker trenches, do you have a gut instinct on whether a shoe will be big?

After 25 years, yes, especially if you count my retail days when I was picking products. Although, sometimes it’s hard to tell, because crazy ideas can become amazing, and you’d never have guessed it. If you work with designers and product managers every day and repeatedly ask yourself who is this product for, what problems are you solving, what’s new and different about it, where does this consumer live, what will they use it for…when you go through the whole list and it matches up with a product, then you know you’ve done your homework. Even with all the best intentions and laid out plans, however, it isn’t a guarantee for success. If it were easy, then everyone would do it, right? (Laughs)

What do you love most about your (new) job? It starts with the people.

Moving to a new city and company, especially when I’d been in one place for so long, wasn’t easy. But the people here have been amazing. Now I know why so many speak fondly of Boston—it’s a young city, there’s a lot going on, lots of great sneaker boutiques, it’s manageable. I also believe great product comes from great teams, and great teams are made up of great people. Reebok is full of those people. I’ve been inspired by our people who offer fresh thinking and possess incredible talent. Combine that with the Reebok’s archives and assets, and I couldn’t be more excited for us to make some amazing shoes.

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A N OT E T O M Y Y O U N G E R S E L F

WORTHY ADVICE Beverly Goldberg, vice president of Florsheim, looks back on a career spanning retail to wholesale.

DEAR BEVERLY, As you embark on your career, here’s some advice that will be helpful along the way—starting in that interview right out of college. Don’t panic! Not even after earnestly telling the interviewer, “I really like to shop, so I’m sure I’d be successful as a department store buyer.” You actually said that. But don’t worry, later in the interview you convince her that you have what it takes to succeed in Federated Department Stores’ executive training program. And succeed you will! Your first assignment is a brief stint in the menswear department for the Dallas-based Sanger Harris chain, which eventually merges into Macy’s. Soon after, you’re promoted to a dream job: assistant buyer for women’s shoes. That job marks the first in a series of wonderful opportunities that make up what is, to date, a 36-year-long career in footwear. It’s an industry that you’ll quickly come to adore, one filled with talented people, amazing travel and, of course, beautiful shoes.

Right away you learn that being a buyer goes far beyond a love of shopping. The job also consists of financial analysis, marketing and advertising, product knowledge, sales and fashion trends, and communicating with sales representatives and employees at distribution centers and stores. It’s challenging, but you rise to the occasion. Fortunately, you work alongside people who mentor you. You wisely embrace learning from them. In fact, one of the best pieces of advice I can offer is to make the most of every professional relationship that comes your way.

Some of these people will become instrumental in your career success.

After being promoted to associate buyer at Sanger Harris, you make the jump to buyer for the Shoe Box/Shoe Gallery stores, owned by G.H. Bass & Company. This takes you to trade markets around the world. You’ll never forget your first trip to Europe, where you tour a factory in Italy and observe every step of transforming raw leather into beautiful shoes. You come to appreciate the art of footwear design even more! Shopping the market in London, Paris and Florence is a fabulous experience as well.

You then make the move to JCPenney’s headquarters in Dallas, joining the company as a buyer and soon becoming a DMM. You’ll be involved in rolling out a central distribution program for women’s shoes. Then, as a merchandise development manager, you’ll oversee a team developing private label in women’s, men’s and children’s shoes—a job that requires visiting factories in the Far East, Europe and Brazil. After seven years with JCPenney, you cross into wholesale, as director of sales for Rockport and then vice president of sales. Over a seven-year span, you work for six different bosses! Another piece of advice: Listen more than talk. You’ll learn from each of them. What’s more, you’ll develop patience and persistence, and figure out how to adapt to new experiences and expectations.

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You then become national sales director at Kenneth Cole, where you’ll work with a group of great people and learn from the best. In 2006, you’ll be offered a terrific opportunity: to become vice president of Florsheim, a division of Weyco Group, Inc. There’s just one catch. It involves leaving your beloved Dallas for Milwaukee. Leaving Texas won’t be easy.

By now you’re married, with three young children and many longtime friends who you consider family. What’s more, you’ll be leaving business contacts you’ve cultivated over 25 years. But another piece of advice: It’s absolutely the right move. Look at it as a new adventure, from both personal and professional perspectives. Your family is supportive of the move and transitions well. You discover Milwaukee to be a welcoming community where you make wonderful friends. Florsheim is a welcoming family as well. At 127 years old, it boasts a remarkable history, and your team will make even more history by introducing casual collections, strengthening its dress shoe legacy and launching a children’s line.

Success in this business never comes easy.

It requires talent and a ton of hard work. As a woman, you’ll face additional challenges.

Often, you’re the only woman in a meeting and you’ll lead teams of men. Meanwhile, you’ll struggle to juggle the conflicting demands of work and family. While there’s never enough time, my advice is to get help when you need it and be content with doing your best. Trust your instincts and follow your mantra to “just keep on moving forward.” You’ll have good and bad days, but the positives outweigh the negatives.

You will be rewarded for your efforts with success and satisfaction. Moreover, you’ll be recognized by your peers for your achievements. You’ll never forget the phone call in 1996 informing that you’re the Two Ten Footwear Foundation’s annual A.A. Bloom Memorial Award recipient, recognizing an individual who exemplifies charitable contributions within the industry. You are the first woman to win this prestigious award!

Two Ten’s mission of philanthropy is near and dear to your heart. You love volunteering at its annual Dallas golf fundraisers; serving on its board of directors; assisting in creating Footwear Cares days, an annual volunteer campaign in Milwaukee that becomes national in scope; and serving as a mentor through the foundation’s Women in the Footwear Industry (WIFI) initiative. WIFI is a win-win: Passing on what you’ve learned to those following in your footsteps is a joy, and learning from those you mentor is equally rewarding.

My last bits of advice: Enjoy every day of the journey, where you’ll always be learning, seeing the world and having more fun than you ever dreamed! Always be grateful for the love and support of your family, because none of your success would be possible without them. And hold on tight, because time flies!

W HAT ’ S SE LLI N G

W

Comfort Specialty

ELM SHOES G r e e n c a s t l e , PA

HILE ELM SHOES has been outfitting its to last and keep them safe. Then on the casual and dress shoe end, that cuscustomers with the best in comfort footwear tomer is typically 40-plus and searching for something that will make their since 1943, fourth-generation owner Loren feet happy and also look good. More and more consumers want their shoes Martin knows longevity and legacy only to deliver on both comfort and looks. counts for so much these days. One must also embrace new ideas, brands and trends What are your top-selling brands? New Balance, Clarks, Rockport, Vionic, in order to survive amid these trying retail Naot and Earth. On the technical side, we do best with Red Wing, followed times. Since Martin took over sole ownership

by Thorogood and Keen Utility. We’ve tried to not be too reliant on any in 2013 from his brother, he’s been integrating one brand because we’ve realized a lot of them are heading more toward a fashionable comfort into ELM’s merchandise mix while continuing to offer direct-to-consumer model. As a result, we’re trying to offer our customers the best in work footwear. “We’ve always focused on comfort, but women a broader selection so maybe they’re not as loyal to a particular brand and don’t want grandma-looking stuff anymore,” he says. rather to us as a brand. The biggest challenge is looking for something fresh Carrying trendier styles as well as comfort staples means Martin must be and vendors not copying each other. We want to find unique styles that will on top of his inventory game. ELM’s nearly 3,000-square-foot stockroom appeal to our customers. holds, on average, nearly 18,000 pairs from top brands like Aetrex, Clarks, Birkenstock and Earth. “If I’ve got people in the store, I need the inventory for What are your best-selling accessories? Lynco orthotics by Aetrex are our them to walk out with a pair instead of leaving to buy online,” he says. “Luckily most popular followed by Powerstep. We also do well with Anuschka handbags, we live in a rural area, so it’s not like there’s a and we sell a lot of Darn Tough Vermont socks.

UPS store on every corner for easy returns.”

Martin isn’t solely relying on customers coming How important are transitional type styles? to the store. Since 2007, his team has operated I would say our customers are looking for more a mobile truck that visits area manufacturing transitional styles with how strong our fashplants to outfit workers. The 24-foot truck offers ion boots sales have been of late. In southern a full sit-and-fit experience and services seven Pennsylvania, my winter boot sales don’t mean counties in Pennsylvania, Maryland and West a whole lot anymore. People are buying fashion/ Virginia. An added draw, Martin says, is factofunction boots so they can make do because they ries will often cover a portion of the purchases. don’t need a performance snow boot.

“The employee walks in, gets their boots fitted right away and we bill the manufacturer for a What is the smartest business move you’ve portion,” he says, noting it’s easier for the commade recently? Realizing that the brands who panies to make sure the shoes being purchased brought us where we are won’t necessarily carry meet safety standards. “If the majority of your us into the future. I look back at our top two workers are buying from one source, you don’t and three sellers from 15 year ago and they rank have to worry about them accidently buying like eighth and tenth now. Some brands are not mesh shoes or something that’s non-slip,” he adapting well to the shift in consumers’ tastes. adds. The truck now accounts for 25 percent I need to stay on top of that and watch for any of ELM’s total annual sales. declines as well as always be on the lookout for ELM Shoes’ mix spans stylish comfort to work Martin says the plan going forward is to keep something new. safety to meet all the needs of its clientele. on truckin’ and doing what ELM does best: offering expert sit-and-fit service and ample sizes and How important is social media to your marwidths. A possible second stand-alone store is also in the works. He believes keting plan? We do quite a bit on Facebook and Instagram. Of late, we’ve the demand is there as the competitive herd has thinned and his youngest son, been using Facebook a little more because we’re still new on Instagram and representing the fifth generation of Martins, has joined the business. That family our following is not quite so large. I’m surprised how many people message legacy is the store’s calling card. Customers know and trust ELM. “People realize us on Facebook and ask questions. that we’ve been around a long time selling quality products and servicing them well, and that gives us credibility,” Martin says. —Aleda Johnson How important is your online sales? It’s a small percentage of our overall business, but a lot of customers pre-shop online. They walk in with their phones How’s business? Overall, business is good. Last year, we were up five percent and want to try on what they been looking at. It’s the modern-day catalog that and our mobile business was up almost 30 percent. That was a nice shot in you must invest the time and money in because customers expect it. the arm. Our first quarter is always a little slow because of the cold weather.

We balance that out as a lot of our industrial business is subsidy-driven and What do you see in ELM’s future? We’re talking about opening a second many manufacturers work off a calendar year, so those customers have new location. It’s not all ironed out yet. We’re looking at pushing 30 to 40 minutes money to spend. away from Greencastle, between us and the competition. We really don’t have a lot of competition like us nearby. It’s 45 minutes north and south on Rte. How would you describe your core customer? We really have two cores. In 81 until you get to any real competitors. It wasn’t always that way, but others the work arena, it’s people who are looking for comfort footwear that’s going have gone by the wayside.

2019 april/may • footwearplusmagazine.com 21

kids’ review :

FA L L 2 0 1 9

LET’S GET SMALL

Kenneth Cole

Beartraps

ROCK ON Bling, grit and a whole lot of ’tude.

T h e s e a s o n’s k e y silhouettes, materials and embellishments.

Kensie Girl

By Emily Beckman

BCBG Girls

WILD ONES Leopard print hits the spot.

Old Soles Nine West Keds x Kate Spade New York Kenneth Cole

Freshly Picked Sam Edelman

22 footwearplusmagazine.com • april/may 2019

GLITZ BLITZ

Joules

All that glitters is bold.

XOXO

BCBG Girls

OshKosh B’Gosh

Michael Kors

Carter’s

Western Chief

2019 april/may • footwearplusmagazine.com 23

kids’ review :

FA L L 2 0 1 9

Stride Rite Geox

FUR SURE Faux trims and linings are cozy and fabulous.

Rugged Bear

Nine West

Bearpaw

Robeez

Hush Puppies

Sperry Emu Australia

SHORT & SWEET

Laura Ashley

The Chelsea boot is the right mix of dressy and sporty.

Joules Pediped

24 footwearplusmagazine.com • april/may 2019

Polo Ralph Lauren

Old Soles

Robeez

CRUSHING HARD Velvet brings out the softer side.

Nanette Lepore Girls

Pop Shoes

Sam Edelman

Katy Perry

Kensie Girl

HIP HI-TOPS Embellishments elevate classic kicks.

Freshly Picked Michael Kors

Geox

Carter’s

2019 april/may • footwearplusmagazine.com 25

Python print boots by L’Artiste, Smythe tunic, Blank NYC jeans.

26

Top: Fly London. Bottom row, left to right: Gabor, BC, L’Amour Des Pieds and Born. Opposite: Lug-sole boots by Wolverine, vintage dress and sweater by Nit LA.

28

30

Left to right: Western Chief, Comfortiva, Bos & Co. and Mephisto. Opposite: Leopard print boots by Marc Fisher, Smythe peasant blouse, vintage denim skirt.

31

Clockwise from top: Naot, FS/NY, Geox and Birkenstock.

Opposite: White Chelsea boots by Ecco, Smythe top, jacket and jeans by Mavi.

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Seychelles distressed leather boot, blouse by Ramy Brook, Iilyo NY floral shorts.

Opposite: Suede boots by Cougar, Celia Dragoini kimono dress.

Fashion editor: Aleda Johnson; hair and makeup: Christina Nicole Errante; model: Danielle Dorchester/Q Model Management; stylist assistant: Kiyana Panton.

35

EDITOR’S PICKS

D E S I G N E R C H AT

GEORGE ESQUIVEL NEVER expected his journey from truck driver to go-to shoe designer of stars like Janelle Monáe, Tyson Chandler and Brad Pitt would have started with a trip to Baja California with his girlfriend about two decades ago. Beckoned by a sign reading “Boots Made To Order,” the vintage clothing enthusiast walked into the small shop and sketched a design. The resulting boots were a hit at the punk rock concerts Esquivel often attended around his native Orange County, California. “I loved all the attention I was getting for them, but I didn’t want to go back to Mexico every time I wanted a new pair,” he says.

Esquivel spent the next two years stopping at shoe makers in the Los Angeles area until he found one who could make samples of his designs. “Over two years we made 2,500 pairs out of a garage, and some ended up on members of No Doubt and Nine Inch Nails,” Esquivel says. Word spread and now, 17 years later, Esquivel Shoes is known for its handcrafted designs. “Esquivel is an expression of timeless and modern design, crafted in our Southern California atelier by skilled artisans using time-honored traditions,” the designer says. Details like hand-stained patinas, handmade shoelaces and perfectly imperfect finishes give each collection a unique aesthetic. “The goal is to make shoes with a mix of sophistication and southern California casual,” he says.

Esquivel’s level of dedication to handcrafting is rare today, as is the fact that the line is made entirely in the U.S. While moving production offshore might lower production costs, that’s just not the label’s aesthetic. “It’s important to stick to who I am,” Esquivel says, adding individuality in the age of fast fashion is a point of difference. “It’s all about those slight imperfections when we hand-cut and hand-stain the leather.”

For Fall ’19, Esquivel is channeling tomboy chic in women’s.

The boot-centric line features offbeat textures and colors like burnished metallics and white faux croc skin. The centerpiece is a hand-stained gold leather bootie. “It took three months to figure out how to stain and dye the nude Vaquetta leather and get all these processes just right,” he says. “Every pair looks different.”

Meanwhile, the men’s collection is heavily masculine, featuring distressed classic silhouettes for a California cool finish. “I love the textures, layer and coloring of materials, and I love things with 36 footwearplusmagazine.com • april/may 2019

Marskinryyppy

Dansko

Vince Camuto

JE ANS T H ER APY

Faded to fringe, classic denim is the fabric of America.

character and age,” Esquivel says. “I love the tension of being perfectly imperfect.”

How’s business? Business is always challenging. But this year we’re working on our website and getting our ecommerce running.

I knew it would be a challenge—the digital marketing, understanding conversion rates and figuring out how long to make your videos. We’ll get there, even if it takes another year to figure out.

Who is the quintessential Esquivel customer? They know who they are, whether they’re 25 or 45. They want something different. They’re professional women and men who aren’t so interested in name brands. I don’t believe in logos. The design should be enough for people to love it. Our shoes aren’t based on current fads; each item has a unique finish that comes from our hearts, not from a trend. We’re not merely a product. We’re made to tell your story.

Any designers you admire? Starting out, Martin Margiela, founder of Maison Margiela, was a big inspiration because his designs look so simple but aren’t. I have a pair that are one piece of leather with a hand painted wingtip. We ruined 50 pairs to get that process right.

How do you choose collaborators? They typically start out of a friendship, like with my Ryan Roche collaboration. They’re people I admire, and I like what they’re doing. A good collaboration gets me out of the norm of what I typically do, and it’s a fun challenge to work with someone else and see their point of view. Plus, it’s awesome to see my shoes on a runway.

What do you love most about designing shoes? Everything! I get to do this amazing job, where I travel, design and meet amazing people all balled up into one job.

I’m so blessed.

E D I TO R ’ S P I C K S P H OTO G R A P H Y BY T R E V E T T M CC A N D L I S S

GEORGE ESQUIVEL

continued from page 15 able to do that effectively, mainly because we’ve gone from being a sandal brand to a year-round collection. Another goal is to double the number of accounts. Speaking of, I’m very happy with the quality of independent retailers we’re trading with. We’re really having fun now, and I’m looking forward to what the next 12 to 18 months bring for Revere. We’ve got some new developments in the wings that we’re excited about. We’re not standing still. We’re going to continue to provide good product solutions for retailers.

Care to share any specifics on what’s coming?

We’re excited to get into the casual-active market with some beautifully crafted silhouettes for women seeking the feel of an active shoe without looking like one. That’s one of our initiatives for 2020. It‘s for that sophisticated woman who’s not looking for mesh, rather a great metallic or animal print leather. Look at Allbirds. I’m just amazed about how effectively they’ve broken into that market. They’ve done it in a such a unique way—a great eco-friendly materials story and promoting it as the most comfortable shoes ever. I’m quite inspired by how fast they’ve been able to take their brand to where they are now. For a little guy like Revere, it makes us feel optimistic.

Allbirds has done so primarily through direct-to-consumer. Has that made you question Revere’s brick-and-mortar approach?

No, because I believe one of the key ingredients to building a brand is through relationships with retailers. Our success to date has been growing our categories and SKU count. For example, we want her to wear our sandals, Mary Janes, booties and, soon, walking shoes. Our retail partners are integral in making that happen for us.

of time and money in building our brand through that tier. The majority of our marketing budget is POP materials and trade shows to get in front of those retailers. We want them to see Revere as a potential long-term partner.

When retailers talk about brands they enjoy doing business with, we want Revere to be at the top of that list. We love hearing comments that essentially say, “We love dealing with you guys; you make it so easy.” Let’s face it, there are a lot of brand options in this market. It’s why Annie and I moved here to instill our values and prove that we’re not “just another comfort brand.”

What do you love—or hate—about America?

We first arrived during the U.S. presidential election and we didn’t enjoy that one bit and I know we’re not going to like it again. But coming from a sporting background, I love this crazy 24-hour sports culture. My experience living here has been great. But, at the same time, there’s no place like home.

What do you love most about your job?

That we have no limitations on what we can do. It’s completely up to us.

We’re building a corporate culture where thinking outside the box is encouraged and that no idea is a bad one. I love setting our own destiny. I also love working with great people, especially our retailers. I love the passion behind their businesses. Companies that have been established for more than 100 years…I’m often dealing with the grandchildren of the founders, and I love that. I think that’s so amazing. It brings a smile to face knowing Revere is playing a part in their ongoing success. •

What was the best retail lesson learned while working at Foot Locker?

Foot Locker has one of the best training programs, and I learned how to manage successful stores as well as people. It was just a great environment.

When I first joined, there were 40 stores in Australia and when I left we had 120 stores across Australia and New Zealand. It was a great ride and I enjoyed the athletic industry enormously, but the time was right for me to try and do something for myself.

restrictedshoes.com 626.961.8889

Are you still a retailer at heart?

Well, I cut my teeth working in my family’s electronics stores and, later on, at Foot Locker and then in our comfort stores. I enjoy the wholesale side now, but I certainly take a lot of pride in how we run our business based on my experiences in retail.

Where do you envision Revere in five years in the U.S.?

I want Revere to be viewed as one of the established comfort brands in the U.S. In order to achieve that, distribution is key. Specifically, how we effectively service the best independent retailers in the country without over-distributing. When we operated stores, a big part of a great relationship meant not opening a store across the road from us. Responsible distribution and how we grow through that network is our focus and will be key to our success.

If, say, Nordstrom inquires, how will you respond?

We’ve got enough opportunity right now in sit-and-fit stores to grow Revere sustainably. I haven’t reached out to Nordstrom, specifically. I would say their product mix is going a little younger and fashionable. Dillard’s, however, has a sit-and-fit focus that could be a good partner. But for now, we’re staying focused on retailers that offer a genuine sit-and-fit experience where people can take advantage of our unique fit features. We’re investing a lot

Come see us at

FFANY Suite 503

June 4-6 24 West 57th Street & the Warwick NY Hotel

U P C L O S E C O M F O RT

Gender Reveal To Boot New York debuts first-ever women’s collection.

Green Dream Sole x United By Blue raises the bar on sustainable design.

SOLE IS DEDICATED to creating footwear that is sustainable from “tongue to tread,” and the Canadian company claims its latest collaboration with the outdoor apparel brand United By Blue (UBB) has produced “the world’s most eco-friendly shoe.” Fueled by a successful Kickstarter campaign—the $30,000 fundraising goal was reached in a mere 84 minutes and a total of $515,000 was raised—the Jasper Wool Eco chukka and slip-on further both brands’ missions to reduce waste and promote sustainable business practices, according to Zach Osness, vice president of global sales and merchandising for Sole.

Green-friendly stats include a breathable, moisture-wicking upper made of ethically-sourced merino wool from Australia and UBB’s award-winning bison hair insulation, made from hair otherwise sent to landfills by ranchers. The recycled cork midsole is collected by Sole subsidiary Recork from wine corks from business and individuals from around the United States and Canada. The footbed is made from algae foam sourced from polluted waterways that provides flexible cushioning, suitable with or without socks and reduces reliance on petrochemicals. The outsole is made of naturally sourced rice rubber, and the chukka features bamboo shoelaces that are up to three times more durables than cotton.

“This isn’t just a flip-flop,” Osness says. “For an actual shoe with that subset of materials makes it the most eco-friendly ever made.”

Because the construction is so revolutionary, Osness suspected retailers might be hesitant to stock the styles—hence the Kickstarter campaign to generate buzz. “Sole had yet to make closed-toe footwear and even the most forward thinking retailers are timid about bringing in new products, because it’s always a gamble,” he says. However, the opposite proved true. Retailers have pounced on stocking the styles. “Just 48 hours into the Kickstarter campaign, I had our top retailers, who had previously passed on the Jasper, asking when they could stock it,” Osness says, attributing the shoes’ sustainable yet durable qualities and competitive price ($150 SRP for the chukka and $130 for the slip-on) as attracting the attention of more than just eco-conscious consumers. An added incentive: for every pair of the Jaspers sold, UBB will remove one pound of trash from the world’s oceans and waterways.

“We’ve created a product that’s distinctive but approachable, so people don’t think twice about picking shoes that help replace as many petro chemicals in the industry as possible,” Osness says, adding that the range will soon expand to sneakers and possibly light hikers. The more sustainable styles purchased, the lighter the impact on the environment, he figures. Notably, more than 20 billion shoes are produced annually worldwide and most have a breakdown period in landfills of 10,000 years, whereas the Jaspers break down in three years or less—without leaching harmful waste into the environment. “We want to be an agent of change with something no one has to compromise to wear,” Osness says. “We’re on a mission to do good, and doing good is good business.” —Aleda Johnson 38 footwearplusmagazine.com • april/may 2019

FOR MORE THAN 30 years, Adam Derrick, designer and founder of To Boot New York, has been asked by mothers, sisters, wives and girlfriends of his loyal male clientele when he would make shoes for them. Derrick has finally answered the call, debuting a capsule collection of 15 luxury sneakers this spring. “The market for women was dominated by Sex and The City-esque styles, but things have shifted,” he says. “The consumer is ready for what I can offer her.”

The goal of the Italian-made collection is to give women the same features and benefits that men want in sneakers: comfort, versatility and style. “The To Boot Woman doesn’t focus on trends—she’s aware of them, but she isn’t a follower,” Derrick says. “She’s looking for shoes that work with her style and that will last.”

In making the leap to women’s, Derrick began with a clean creative slate.

It’s about using DNA from To Boot’s men’s collection while implementing femininity into each silhouette. Think meticulously selected colors, fabrications and details. “We’re looking to create much more than smaller versions of our men’s shoes,” he says. Highlights include oversized laces, metallic accents, rich suedes and the use of leather and deerskin along with the brand’s renowned lightweight constructions. The suggested retail price range is $350 to $395. “We’re offering luxury craftsmanship at a more appealing price point to compete with brands priced much higher,” Derrick adds. “We want to appeal to women who are uncompromising when it comes to quality, style and comfort. She has a stake not only in what she looks like, but how she feels in what she’s wearing.”

For Fall ’19, To Boot’s women’s line will expand into boots, including Chelsea styles on up to Victorian riding boots. Suggested retail prices range from $495 to $550, topping out at $795 for the riding boots. The sneaker collection will also expand to include brighter colors and new treatments like laser-cut suedes and burnished leathers. The more options, the better, according to Derrick. “We’ve added tons of new styles for Fall/ Winter ’19,” he says. “Everyone wants modern styling with great details and quality, and I’m pleased to give women the same options that I’ve offered men for more than three decades.”

So far so good, as the designer reports initial response to To Boot’s women’s debut has been strong. “It’s been a lot of fun to grow and challenge myself in this new arena,” Derrick says. “The potential is unlimited. We’re ready to see how the women’s collection evolves and grows organically, and we’re invested in the long term.” —A.J.

THANK YOU to our Sponsors AETREX WORLDWIDE NAOT ALEGRIA FOOTWEAR NEW BALANCE ATHLETICS, INC ARA SHOES OS1st BASE LAYER BRACING ARCOPEDICO OTBT BIRKENSTOCK PARCEL MANAGEMENT GROUP BORN PIKOLINOS BOSTONIAN PLAKTON SANDALS BUENO PREFERRED INSURANCE CLARKS AMERICAS REVERE SHOES CLOUD FOOTWEAR RICS COMFORTIVA THE ROCKPORT GROUP DANSKO SIMPLE LOGIC EARTH INC SKECHERS MARK NASON EARTH ORIGINS SKECHERS WOMENS SPORT ECCO USA SKECHERS WOMENS COMFORT FEETURES SKECHERS MENS SPORT FLORSHEIM SKECHERS MENS USA FN PLATFORM SKECHERS PERFORMANCE FOOTWEAR PLUS MAGAZINE SOFFT GEOX SOFTWALK INCREDIWEAR SPIRA JAFA SPRING FOOTWEAR JAMBU TAOS JOSEF SEIBEL TWO TEN FOUNDATION LAMO UGG LIBERTY INSURANCE COMPANY VIONIC GROUP MEPHISTO WIGWAM

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LA ST SHO T

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Nothing square about these booties.

DO-SI-DO

40 footwearplusmagazine.com • april/may 2019

P H OTO G R A P H Y BY T R E V E T T M CC A N D L I S S

Patrizia

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