Earnshaw's | September 2018 by Wainscot Media

VOLUME 102 NUMBER 8 SEPTEMBER 201 8 $10.00

GENTLE SPRING Lightweight Looks Awash with Muted Hues and Delicate Details

DSW’S BIG IDEA DISNEY CELEBRATES THE 90TH ANNIVERSARY OF MICKEY MOUSE BOWFISH KIDS: A MERMAID’S TALE

Americaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Most Trusted Baby Brand wholesale.elegantbaby.com 1-800-334-5321 @elegantbaby

SEP TEM BER 2018 CONTENTS

Noelle Heffernan Publisher Emily Beckman Editor

F EATURE S

Nancy Campbell Trevett McCandliss Creative Directors

8 All Ears John King, vice president of Disney Consumables and Disney Baby, showcases the brains behind the magic by detailing the wants, needs and insecurities of Millennial parents.

EDITORIAL Aleda Johnson Assistant Editor Mariah Walker Contributing Fashion Editor ADVERTISING

12 Making a Splash Caitlin Quirk, owner of Bowfish Kids, provides a mythical makeover experience that lures customers from near and far.

Jennifer Craig Special Accounts Manager PRODUCTION Laurie Guptill Production Manager Mike Hoff Webmaster

16 DSW Goes Big on Kids The new and improved Kids’ Department expands to all doors as the chain ups its one-stop shopping game.

Bruce Sprague Circulation Director CORPORATE Xen Zapis Founder 1926-2018 Lee Zapis, CEO Rich Bongorno, CFO Debbie Grim, Controller

FA S H I O N

Caroline Diaco President/Group Publisher

22 The Naturals Beneath the azure skies of Ibiza, girls don lightweight linens and milky cottons that complement the tranquil scenery.

Greg Dutter Editorial Director 9Threads 26202 Detroit Road, #300 Westlake, OH 44145 Tel: (440) 871-1300 CONTACT INFO

DEPARTMEN TS

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4 Editor’s Note 6 Scene & Heard 18 Trend Watch 34 What’s Selling 36 Haute Topics 40 Final Cut

This page: Molly wears cloud appliqué overall by Infantium Victoria, Rylee + Cru top and Tia Cibani Kids hat.

On cover: Joanna wears necklace by Tia Cibani Kids (in hair) and Lulaland striped dress.

Photography by Zoe Adlersberg; styling by Mariah Walker/Art Department NY; styling assistant: Gina Maher; Deva Models in Ibiza. Shot on location in Ibiza, Spain.

Sales/Editorial Offices 214 W. 39th St., Suite 205 New York, NY 10018 Tel: (646) 278-1550 Fax: (646) 278-1553 advertising@9threads.com editorialrequests@ 9threads.com Circulation Office 26202 Detroit Road, #300 Westlake, OH 44145 Tel: (440) 871-1300 circulation@9threads.com

EARNSHAW’S INFANTS, GIRLS AND BOYS WEAR REVIEW ISSN 0161-2786 (USPS-320-090) The business and fashion magazine of the childrenswear industry is published 10x a year by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, 214 West 39th Street, Suite 205 New York, NY 10018. The publishers of this magazine do not assume responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage is paid in New York, N.Y. and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: U.S. $48; Rates outside U.S. available upon request. Single price copy, $5. Copyright 2011 by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC. Postmaster: Send address changes to Earnshaw’s Infants, Girls and Boys Wear Review, P.O. Box 8548, Lowell, MA 01853-8548. Publisher is not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts or photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender. Symphony Publishing NY, LLC will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. No portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. Printed in USA.

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THANK YOU for nominating

ANGEL DEAR BEST LAYETTE

EDITOR’S NOTE

Retail Rodeo A tip of the hat to our latest roundup of noteworthy retailers.

VER THE PAST 100-plus years, Earnshaw’s has profiled countless retailers spanning all formats, concepts, sizes and locales. The list ranges from one-store and mom-andpop boutiques to publicly traded category killers. We’ve showcased a hefty share of brick-and-mortar stalwarts as well as digital-only startups. The one constant over the years: retail is a rough-and-tumble business. You can be tossed off the saddle and trampled in an instant. For proof, one need only look at the many names that have been left in the dust of retail history. What unites those who hang on to the reins despite a stampede of recessions, revolutions (a.k.a. retail apocalypses), natural disasters, tectonic demographic shifts and a fury of fashion fads? Nearly all exhibit a willingness to embrace change and take (calculated) risks. Take Caitlin Quirk of Bowfish Kids in Ocean City, NJ, and the subject of our retail profile (“Making A Splash,” p. 12). Originally located on the boardwalk in the summer resort town, Quirk struggled to find traction as a year-round business. But she knew it was her only chance for long-term survival. During those first few cold and lonely winters, she created new concepts (several of which her friends and family members described as crazy) that would be rolled out the following summers. Quirk was never sure any of them would be prizewinners, but it didn’t stop her from competing. She knew she had to keep adapting just to survive. Eventually, she graduated to a year-round space in town, but it was one of her “crazy” ideas—an in-store mermaid makeover salon—that became her watershed moment. The add-on business, Bowfish Studios, has expanded to offer a range of themed makeovers, becoming a major attraction for kids and adults alike who want to get their cosplay groove on. Meanwhile, Bowfish Kids is thriving, fed by a steady stream of magical makeover fans. Quirk credits much of her store’s success to leaving her comfort zone—again and again. She says a store owner’s job is never done: “You must constantly evolve and try new things because if you rely solely on one approach, your doors will close up pretty quickly.” Amen to that. DSW (Designer Shoe Warehouse) took a similar risk with the national rollout of its new-and-improved kids’ department last month. The concept (“DSW Goes Big on Kids,” p. 16) has been several years in the making and involved a series of tests and tweaks to get

the format right. The selection is broader, deeper and designed to be a destination for busy moms who can now do their family’s shoe shopping in one place. What’s more, the kids’ staff are all trained fit experts—a level of service new to DSW. Kirk Persson, GMM of DSW Kids, says going the extra mile on service is a must. For starters, it reassures parents who want what’s best for their children. Second, it’s a way for DSW to stand out from the competition, particularly when many large chains have pulled back on service. Perhaps most important, DSW research showed that the chain was losing some of its regulars when they entered their parenting years, mainly because they didn’t have the time to indulge their own shoe shopping needs. So, while making a major investment in kids comes with risks, the potential reward of retaining or regaining its core customer (more than half of the chain’s 25 million VIP Rewards members have at least one child in the household) appears worth taking. Then there’s the entrepreneurial success story of Liz Connor, founder of Pitter Patter in Louisville, CO, (What’s Selling, p. 38). Since opening in 2016, the store has lassoed a strong following in the mining town-turned-suburban community that Money and Family Circle magazines recently ranked one of the best places in America to live and raise a family, respectively. With a focus on selection and personalized service, Connor has hitched her store to the town’s booming baby buggy train. The former TV news exec couldn’t be happier, having left the “doom and gloom” of news behind to work amid “goo-goo, ga-ga and giggles” all day. Our retail profile archives are filled with startup boutique shop owners who left other careers, tired of mundane routines or feeling hogtied. A career in retail can let a person’s imagination run wild. The retail rodeo is the perfect opportunity for entrepreneurs to hit their stride. The excitement, pace, creativity and, yes, risk serves as a magnet for adventurous sorts. While some retailers fall deeply in love with the product and others are driven by profit, they are all passionate, people-oriented souls. This is, after all, a business about kids and their families. Not surprisingly, Connor’s favorite part of the job is building relationships with her customers. She’s a refreshing reminder that childrenswear retailing, despite being a ride as rough as a bucking bronco at times, offers rich rewards.

E M I LY B E C K M A N Editor

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SC E N E & H E A R D

United Legwear & Apparel Co.’s Got Game

IT’S BEEN A busy year for United Legwear & Apparel Co. The “feel-good” lifestyle brand Fun Company, maker of Fun Socks, was launched by Isaac E. Ash, president & CEO of United Legwear & Apparel Co., last year and is now expanding with a line of brightly colored kids’ crew socks. “Even though ULAC has grown into a company that makes bodywear, loungewear, accessories and kids’ apparel, socks is still a very significant category, so we introduced Fun Socks as the first product launch of Fun Company,” Ash says.

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Debuting this fall, many of the kids’ sock offerings are exact takedowns from the adult lines, creating fun “mini me” moments for parents who love posting family photos on social media. The kids’ socks are sold as three-pair variety packs ($10 SRP) in fun patterns, including French Bulldogs, stripes and skulls for girls and pizza, footballs and astronauts for boys. “Socks are a great way to freshen up an outfit, and like all accessories, they’re an inexpensive way to get the most out of what’s already in a child’s closet,” Ash says. Fun Socks advises retailers to consider stocking adult socks alongside the kids’ assortment for best results. “Mom or Dad might pick them up to match their kids, and the shopper’s order value increases,” Ash says, adding that Fun Socks are best merchandised near outfits that they’d complement or next to the cash wrap as an impulse buy. As a result of its initial success, Fun Socks will expand in January with gift sets perfect for baby showers or welcome home gifts. Offerings include six-pair infant gift boxes for $20 and two-pair “Mommy & Me” and “Senior + Junior” packs for $16 that feature an adult pair of socks and the matching baby design. In addition, ULAC announced a new partnership with Epic Games to create a range of merchandise for the wildly popular Fortnite franchise. The videogame themed collection will feature bags, backpacks, duffle bags, carry sacks, waist bags, lunch kits, belts, wallets and card cases. “Fornite’s extraordinary success has made it more than a game—it’s a global cultural phenomenon,” Ash says. “We’ll be making bags and accessories that capture very specific, authentic aspects of the game’s aesthetic and integral details, so Fortnite fans will feel they have a piece of the game in real life.” The collection will make its retail debut this May.

Little Goodall Stays Hungry LITTLE GOODALL AND THE WORLD OF ERIC CARLE have partnered to create a line of clothing inspired by the author’s colorful illustrations. The collaboration will include multiple collections with the first based on Carle’s cherished storybook The Very Hungry Caterpillar in honor of its 50th anniversary. Since its release in 1969, the book has been translated into 60 languages and has sold over 45 million copies. “I grew up loving Eric Carle’s books and artwork as a child, and more recently shared his books with my son,” says Molly Goodall, founder and creative director of Little Goodall, adding the timing was perfect with nostalgic kids’ birthday parties trending on social media. For the Spring ’19 collection, Goodall was tasked with translating Carle’s best-selling picture book into playful, sustainable clothing. Ethically made in the U.S., the cheerful woven prints are all based on the food the caterpillar eats through on his way to becoming a butterfly. More so, kids will enjoy searching for all the caterpillars that wind their way through strawberry, lemon and tropical fruit patterns. “The shapes are classic but the details are new, like a high-low dress with an unexpected pop of color at the hem or collars made of layered leaf shapes,” Goodall says, adding that the response has been positive. “Buyers have come to us saying that The Very Hungry Caterpillar is their favorite children’s book to read with their child, so it holds a special place in their heart,” she says. Available in sizes 9 months to 7 years, the line retails for $36 to $120 and will be sold in boutiques across the U.S. and online.

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Q&A All Ears John T. King, vice president of Disney Consumables and Disney Baby, showcases the brains behind the magic by detailing the wants, needs and insecurities of Millennial parents. BY EMILY BECKMAN

THERE’S NOTHING “MAGICAL” about the brilliant teamwork and extensive research that fuels Disney’s ever-popular brand. This year, the iconic mouse that puts smiles on the faces of generation after generation is turning 90, and The Walt Disney Company is working its tail off for a top-notch celebration. John T. King, vice president of Disney Consumables and Disney Baby, says the anniversary has been well-received with much still to roll out. “You’re going to start to see a lot more activity in the marketplace, both from a product perspective and from overall marketing activities,” King says, noting recent Disney Baby partnerships with Milk Snob, Líllébaby, Freshly Picked, Aden + Anais, Petunia Pickle Bottom and Maxi-Cosi. “It’s just so rewarding to see the emotional connection Mickey continues to bring families after 90 years,” he adds. King affirms nostalgia as vital to the Disney Baby brand’s strategy. “It’s the circle of life, if you will,” he says. “These memories become the nostalgia for a child, who becomes a parent, who then wants to share that with their own kid.” As a result, Disney Baby uses Mickey and Minnie as its core characters with occasional expansions into other popular franchises like the princesses. Products are often branded with a “softer and cuddlier” style guide aimed for ages newborn to 24 months with a target customer of prenatal moms, first-time parents and experienced parents. But understanding this demographic is a constant work in progress. Just last year, King says the team conducted widespread research on consumer perception of Disney Baby. “We needed to ensure our brand position-

ing, packaging, product design, marketing and distribution approach aligned with Millennials and, quite frankly, now the Gen Z customer as that demographic gets into the baby-making years,” he says, noting that the process started with extensive consumer panel research. “We found that we weren’t 100 percent aligned with the trends out there, so there was opportunity to shift.” King says there was also an opportunity to be more consistent in the brand’s approach across the different business segments internally at The Walt Disney Company. “We always want to deliver an on-trend and accessible lifestyle brand that reignites this nostalgic connection that has carried us to where we are today,” he says. To be most effective, King says the brand simplifies its approach into six key moments of the day: getting ready, the nursery, bath time, on-thego, mealtime and playtime. “It’s about delivering a holistic solution to parents throughout the day—always being accessible and top of mind,” he says, adding that market success comes from staying timely and relevant. “The key is putting yourself where they’re looking, but having engaging content that keeps them wanting to come back,” King says. “Because if you don’t, they won’t come back.” What did your research show about the Millennial mom? Overall, the responses unveiled how self-conscious the Millennial mom

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can be, as well as how important being a parent is to their identity. And in today’s digital environment, moms face more pressure to be “the perfect mom,” both online and in person. There’s a lot more anxiety to do and buy the right thing than ever before. So what’s a brand to do to try and alleviate that anxiety? It’s incredibly important for children’s brands to be on trend. Millennial moms are heavily influenced by what they see online and often want the aesthetics of their kids to reflect their own style and interests. Parents these days are really striving for those shareable moments on Pinterest and Instagram. This goes beyond clothing—parents want their baby’s nursery to be an extension of the rest of their home. We’re seeing less vibrant colors or huge character displays. They want subtle patterns in soft, neutral colors. How much are these parents willing to spend? While they don’t necessarily have a lot of discretionary income, they’re willing to spend on items that deliver value and function. However, they rely heavily on parents and gift-givers for a lot of their purchases. What would you say is the biggest challenge for our industry right now? There are a couple. I think it’s a very relevant conversation for the baby industry to point out the lower birth rate. So fewer kids means companies have to get creative to drive more business. Of course, this will ebb and flow over the years. In addition, we’ve been seeing quite a few retailers closing their doors of late, which has been disappointing. While I feel that each one that has closed has unique circumstances, at a high level, it’s just too much of doing things the same old way. Mainly not listening to the consumer, which really doesn’t work nowadays because the market has flipped. Instead of manufacturers and retailers determining what consumers are buying, consumers are now telling retailers and manufacturers what they want. Those who have adapted to that idea have been succeeding, but those who have resisted and aren’t evolving are fading away. Again, every instance is different, but that’s the new market dynamic in general. Is the “retail apocalypse” as bad as the press reports it to be? I’d say last year was probably the most historic time for retail with the greatest number of bankruptcies—what some call the “retail apocalypse.” For companies like us, it makes it challenging when a lot of key retailers are going bankrupt and folding. It certainly keeps you on your toes. How has it impacted Disney? We notice it, but it’s okay if you know how to evolve. For us, it’s really about continuing to evaluate what that retail environment looks like and putting product where the consumers are shopping. Our strategy has been to keep having a strong presence in stores—even in this post-Toys ‘R’ Us/post-Babies ‘R’ Us era. We want to deepen

888.559.2634 www.iscream-shop.com

our relationship with those brick-and-mortar retailers that are still standing. We want to broaden other relationships with folks that maybe are engaging more with us now that they are looking to fill the void that was created by the Toys ‘R’ Us/Babies ‘R’ Us absence. It’s still very important for us to have a physical outpost in retail where guests can really interact with the brand. It’s omni-channel or bust these days, correct? Absolutely. Millennial parents are very connected to their devices, which is something a brand or retailer can’t ignore. It’s about getting the right content and product where the customer is spending their time. It’s about having the basics a new mom wants for her first baby shower down to the trendier gift items for her next child’s ‘sprinkle.’

How important is a brand’s ethics to consumers today? Very important. More people are connecting with brands as another factor in their consideration of where they’re shopping or what they’re buying. With that, those brand values and ethics need to be aligned with their own. It’s not just the characters and stories, but our company as a brand comes with very high standards, ethics and values. It’s part of what sets us apart from the competition. Disney has always been committed to providing comfort, happiness and inspiration to kids and families around the globe. Also, last year Disney contributed more than $348 million to nonprofit organizations helping kids, families and communities in need through financial donations, in-kind contributions and public service announcements. And this past March, Disney announced an innovative plan to dedicate more than $100 million in company resources, including cash, products and services, to reinvent the patient and family experience in children’s hospitals across the globe. How do you choose what brands to collaborate with? We don’t necessarily look for one certain thing. Like any good relation-

Photo by: Eric Espino

How have you created a connected digital experience that drives engagement? We provide uniquely Disney moments across all platforms. Those cute, cuddly and “aww” moments that consumers want to see and share. And using those online platforms, we feature select items from our Disney Baby line and point guests to where they might find them. So whether its ShopDisney.com, Walmart, Amazon, Target, you name it, we employ the like-to-buy approach where in that actual feed you can click the item you love and buy it. Sometimes it’s as easy as ‘what’s in my nursery’ or ‘what’s in my diaper bag’ concepts that drive engagement. We also take part in influencer marketing.

Exactly how effective are influencers? It works as part of our approach. Moms think these other moms are aspirational yet relatable. It’s often just moms executing simple ideas or using everyday products that really work for them that other mothers in that space look up to for a little help. Some influencers we've used include Jessi Malay (@jessimalay), Sazan Hendrix (@sazan) and Sadii (@blushbassinet).

Andy & Evan Northeast emily@andyandevan.com 212.967.7908 x6573

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Lindsay’s Loft South East & West Coast lindsaysloft@gmail.com 213.614.8663

K.I.T. Showroom, LLC. Accentrics Midwest Southwest krista@kitshowroom.com accentricsbaby@gmail.com 312.664.3911 214.748.0404

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Birthday Bunch

Bumkins

Toms

Pippa & Julie

ship, everyone has to bring something to the table. We want to work with partners who have something interesting to offer. It could be product innovation, a unique way they’re manufacturing, a unique distribution strategy, a certain marketing hook—anything that makes for equal partners.

What are your most popular characters with your licensed product? From a franchise perspective, there’s the importance of leveraging the concept of nostalgia. So Disney partners with top brands for right now, the majority of Disney Baby products celebration-worthy are Mickey, Minnie and Friends, but as we look collections. to expand our franchise to reach Millennial parents and soon Gen Z, there’s more consideration for the Pixar library as those characters will be nostalgic for them. Think Toy Story or The Little Mermaid, who happens to be celebrating her 30th anniversary in 2019! Just look at all the live-action remakes coming out. It’s about keeping things fresh and exciting. We are leveraging that nostalgia to create demand for product. In the near-term, we’ll continue to connect all the marketing activities of Mickey’s 90th birthday. Although, you won’t necessarily see a ton of merchandise with a 90th tag on it because of delivery timelines and how most of what we do is evergreen. We will also be deepening our e-commerce presence, exploring and experimenting with different things in that ever-changing world. We are in the process of curating a Disney Baby collection on ShopDisney.com, as well as some special Disney experiences with other e-commerce platforms. More on that will be released next month as the magic continues!

North East Judy Cohen 856-728-0841 NHC304@comcast.net

South East Glen Warnick 440-951-9739 gwarsales@aol.com

South/Mid West The Closet 214-634-2402 theclosetdallas@sbcglobal.net

New York Yoka Showroom 212-594-7714 caroline@yokashowroom.com

West Coast/Mid West Sylvia Gill Childrenswear - LA 213-622-8271 lashowroom@sylviagill.com

North/Mid West Chicago Gallery 312-751-6800 Christy@Chicagogallery showroom.com

North East Sonia Schneider 781-407-0050 sonia@finelinesshowroom.com

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International Finest For Baby Linda Gill 44(0)1442-248099

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RE TA I L PROFI L E

Making a Splash CAITLIN QUIRK, OWNER OF BOWFISH KIDS IN OCEAN CITY, NJ, PROVIDES A MYTHICAL MAKEOVER EXPERIENCE THAT LURES CUSTOMERS FROM NEAR AND FAR. BY EMILY BECKMAN

FIGURE SKATER growing up, Caitlin Quirk understands better than most the importance of getting up after every fall. So when it came time to start her own business, it’s no surprise perseverance played an integral role in her success by the sea. A few days after graduating from Philadelphia University in 2012 with a degree in fashion design, Quirk was sitting on the boardwalk with her mother when she realized there weren’t any children’s stores nearby. “That was when I had this lightbulb moment of ‘maybe I can do this,’ which quickly transformed into ‘I should do this,’” Quirk says, adding that after interning for big design houses in college she knew she didn’t want to work in a corporate setting.

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“I always had a strong desire to stay at the local level so making an impact on kids and families of Ocean City excited me.” Encouraged by her parents to take the risk, Quirk followed her dreams and opened a children’s boutique, Bangles N Bows, on that very boardwalk in March of 2013. “I went back and forth about going to grad school for business before opening my own store,” she says, but her father, a business owner himself, urged her to try selling for three years. “‘That’s your grad school,’ he said. ‘Just go for it.’” LEARNING TO SWIM

For the next three years, Quirk rode the waves of being a new business owner in a summer resort town—facing unforeseen struggles,

RE T A I L P R O F I L E

taking feedback seriously and of Curly Girls Showroom in making adjustments during New York that she got more the off-season. “It was very confident. “Wendi was like a difficult,” she says, explaining second mom to me, taking me how each winter she would under her wing and giving me close down and rip up everyadvice on how to buy,” Quirk thing to implement what she says. “Plus, I’m the same age as learned the previous year. “It her daughter Samantha who was always amazing to me that also works in the showroom, I would have product sitting so that was a fun coincidence.” there for months, and then I After her second year on the would make a new display or boardwalk, Quirk decided her move it, and it would sell out.” store’s name wasn’t resonatWhen it came to her first ing. “I initially wanted to have Quirk curates a unicorn-inspired display of rainbows and glitter galore! buys, Quirk remembers trade a store, but then I developed shows as an overwhelming the desire to build a brand,” experience. “As a first-time she says, explaining how she buyer, you walk up to these booths and terms are being thrown conducted brand research for a year and decided to change the around like minimum, quantity, $1,500 open—it’s super intimidatname to Bowfish Kids in May of 2015. “It subtly represents our ing,” she says, noting that it wasn’t until she met Wendi Cooper origin of being by the sea while honoring the original name.”

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As clientele grew and Quirk’s three-year lease came to an end, she felt it was time to move off the boardwalk and become a year-round local business. “This was inspired by my strong desire for community living and camaraderie,” Quirk says. “Since moving to Asbury Avenue, I have developed a vision for branching out even more within our community and involving kids and their families as much as possible in our Bowfish family.” DIVING DEEPER

“I LEARNED THAT WHEN YOU HEAR A REQUEST MORE THAN THREE TIMES, JUMP ON IT.”

During her time on the boardwalk, Quirk studied how people liked to spend their money. “We all know the whole Millennials thing that they like to spend more money on experiences than product, but I can tell you in a tourist town that’s even more heightened,” she says. “They’re on vacation and spending at least $200 on amusement ride tickets but would hem and haw over a $40 dress, which is what got me thinking about my own business.”

The boutique owner imagined that if she found a way to turn little girls into mermaids, her business would excel. She kept the idea in mind while searching for a new space, leaving room for the vision that ultimately became known as Bowfish Studios in the summer of 2017. “Last year was basically my proof-of-concept year,” Quirk says, noting that she geared up in 2016 by hosting events, featuring kids on their blog and holding holiday-themed parties to get more acquainted with the community. “The success with our community outreach gave me the confidence to run with my bigger idea in 2017,” she says. Putting about $35,000 into transforming a 500-square-foot portion of her shop into a child’s makeover paradise, Quirk shared updates on the store’s blog and Facebook page of the redecorating process to promote excitement and engagement. Today, Bowfish Studios is a creative space for kids and families to enjoy birthday parties, educational classes and community and charity

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events. Harnessing the power with children. All makeup and of children’s imaginations, the hair products are all-natural studio provides a one-of-a-kind and safe for the environment, interactive studio experience with Quirk citing U.S.-made with stylists that help each kid Klee Naturals as her choice become the character of their vendor. The makeover packdreams from mermaids and ages start at $40 and go up to unicorns to pirates, sharks and $150, where the child leaves superheroes. “When we started, with the costume apparel we were just doing mermaid such as a Fin Fun mermaid makeovers—no birthday partail. To Quirk’s surprise, even ties,” Quirk says, noting that adults have asked to take part positive customer feedback in the experience, from bachpushed the concept further. “I elorette parties to after-hour Customer receives mermaid makeover at Bowfish Studios. learned that when you hear a mom nights. “We have people request more than three times, driving from Philadelphia for jump on it.” a birthday party now, which In order to perfect the Bowfish Studios experience, each young has been great during the slower winter season,” she says, noting upbeat stylist is put through a three-week training process of that each guest’s makeover ranges from $35 to $40. “And while customer etiquette, braiding, makeup application and how to work the children are in there for an hour, you know what the >35

DSW Goes Big on Kids The new and improved Kids’ Department expands to all doors as the chain ups its one-stop shopping game. BY G R E G D U T T E R

DSW (DESIGNER SHOE WAREHOUSE) already owns plenty of women shoppers, especially those just starting out in their careers and who have a need as well as the disposable income to do lots of (affordable) shoe shopping. However, it’s when many of these customers get married, start having kids and are juggling work and parenting responsibilities that DSW execs noticed a drift away from them being regulars. DSW research discovered that many of these women just didn’t have the time to indulge in shopping for themselves, opting instead for outlets where the whole family could get their shoe needs fulfilled. Like any wise retailer, DSW is adapting to meet the needs of one of its key demographics (more than half of the chain’s 25 million VIP Rewards members have at least one child in the household) to encourage her return. Enter its new, improved and expanded kids’ department, officially open in all 500-plus outlets nationwide as of last month. The rollout follows a test phase over the past couple of years in select stores where DSW tweaked the format, selection and service to get it just right. Above all, Kirk Persson, GMM of DSW’s Kids’ division, says the company listened carefully to what customers were saying. “Overwhelmingly, our customer expects us to carry a big assortment just based on the convenience factor,” he says. “Our approach is different than other kids’ shopping models in that we carry a much broader assortment across multiple categories.” From sneakers and sandals to boots, casual, dress and uniform styles in stores and thousands more styles online in sizes spanning infant, toddler and youth, Persson says DSW aims to be a back-toschool destination for families as well as year-round. “We aren’t just an athletic or casual house; we meet all the needs in the children’s wardrobe,” he says. “It’s a wide assortment of quality brands from designer to traditional athletic.” Key brands include Nike, Adidas, New Balance and Vans as well as dressier labels like Sperry, Steve Madden, Stride Rite, Minnetonka, Carter’s, Robeez and Kenneth Cole.

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The assortment also includes DSW private label brands, Max + Jake and Olive & Edie, which Persson reports are performing exceptionally well. “Our consumers view them as regular brands,” he says. In addition to a huge assortment, Persson says DSW is going the full nine yards on proper fitting. All department staff have received extensive training and passed the chain’s fit certification program. They are identified in stores by sporting kids’ fit expert buttons. “We’ve walked them through the Brannock device, instructed on how to ask probing fit-related questions and explain why, for example, a child might need a greater width versus a narrow or a basic size,” he says, noting parents want what’s best for their children. The fact is plenty of parents may know how to fit themselves, but not so when it comes to their kids. Do you leave a thumb’s print worth of room? Should the toe go all the way to front? What’s the best shoe for safety purposes? “The expert service gives Mom confidence, especially first-time ones who are looking for a safe environment to shop for children’s shoes,” Persson says. The fit expertise marks a new level of service at DSW, which Persson says is a must when it comes to kids. “For Mom to think of us as a kids’ resource, we needed to go a step above,” he says. “We didn’t want her to have to hunt for her kids’ shoes on her own. This added level of service is designed to gain her confidence, just like we have when it comes to her purchases.” And while Persson says DSW falls short of being a 100 percent sit-and-fit experience, the fact that it is willing to measure every child’s foot as well as ask relevant questions provides assurance to parents that the DSW is listening to their child’s needs. What’s more, when compared to many competing retailers who have stripped away service, the willingness to engage customers represents a fresh approach, according to Persson. And if Mom wants a little space, he says, she can grab her kid’s size and go. The kids’ shopping all takes place in a self-contained section that consists of roughly 1,000 square feet. It’s bright, cheery

and clearly signed, according to Persson. Interactive elements like a mat where kids can measure themselves and test their jumping skills adds to the overall experiential vibe. Rounding out the department is an extensive offering of accessories, including backpacks and lunch boxes. “Our research showed that more of a shop-in-shop approach with a hands-on touch with the customer is what is preferred,” he says. Persson credits DSW employees, many of whom are recent first-time parents, for providing lots of useful feedback on what makes a great kids’ shoe department. “The biggest takeaway from our employees was realizing we needed to do more than just offer a big selection,” he says. “They told us we had to have the added touch with the customer and to be able to explain why this is the right size and shoe for your kids. The ability to walk through the quality and durability attributes of the shoes is important. Is it just foot covering or are they actually going on an adventure?” Another employees’ takeaway was to not be a one-dimensional department. “Like we do in adults, we offer fashion, function, athletic, dress and seasonal categories,” Persson says. “We’re not just stocking the top 20 styles and carrying them deep. We’re also building and curating a selection that meets all of the footwear needs for the child’s total wardrobe.” Selection, service and setting combined, Persson believes the DSW kids’ department is a winning formula. He adds that the partnership with Soles4Souls allowing customers to make room for new shoes by donating last season’s gently worn styles at any DSW store is icing on the cake. Each donation nets DSW VIP rewards members 50 points

towards their next reward. Since launching its new loyalty program in May, the chain has seen tremendous response, with more than 127,000 pairs donated. “Kids go through so many shoes because they grow so fast, and the thought of them just ending up in a landfill is heartbreaking,” says Margaret Standing, director of corporate communication for DSW. “Parents love the opportunity to clean the closet out before they go shopping for the next round of shoes for the school year, and they love the fact that they’re helping others and the environment at the same time, and it’s great for the kids to see that too.” Like with pretty much everything DSW does, when they do it, they go big. The kids’ department is no exception. It’s comprehensive, fun and relevant, according to Persson. “It’s not like they’re sitting in a dentist’s office,” he says. “They’re able to engage with different types of products—to touch light up styles from Skechers as well as see an array of dress styles that many probably have never even seen before.” It’s a shopping experience that can’t be replicated online. And while Persson says customers can shop the 2,000-plus styles online if they prefer, the belief is the lion’s share of kids’ purchases will happen in its stores. “Ultimately, it’s about the convenience factor for parents,” he says, especially if they have multiple kids in tow. “Parents want to get in and out efficiently, be able to get all their kids’ shopping needs done in one trip and leave knowing they’ve been waited on by a sales associate who really listened to their needs and provided them with a great shopping experience.” Persson adds, “As long as we’re trend-right, have the brands kids want and the

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Joanna wears necklace by Tia Cibani Kids, Lulaland striped dress and Me & Henry shorts. 22

Molly wears silver striped dress by Wild & Gorgeous. 25

Molly wears Penooraâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s knit cardigan, Ujala dress, and peg doll tool belt by Goose Grease. Opposite page: Sara wears headband by Project 6 Kids, Yellow Pelota ruffle collar top, Puma metallic shorts, flower socks by Fun Socks and Converse sneakers.

From left to right: Molly wears Lola and the Boys sequin jacket, dress by Ketiketa and Western Chief rain boots; Sara wears dress by Wild & Gorgeous and pink Converse; Joanna wears embroidered top by Lali Kids, Rylee + Cru skirt and Dezzys velcro shoes. 29

Molly wears cloud appliquĂŠ overall by Infantium Victoria, Rylee + Cru top, Tia Cibani Kids hat and wicker bag by Keora Keora; Opposite page: Sara wears button front dress by Blu Pony Vintage, vintage hat and Converse sneakers.

From left to right: Molly wears dress by Lanoosh and skirt (underneath) by Yellow Pelota; Joanna wears Petit Atelier dress with Everbloom necklace. Opposite page: Sara wears crochet collar by Penooraâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s, floral top by Idol Mind and striped overall by Little Paisley People. Styling assistant: Gina Maher; models: Deva Models; shoot location: Ibiza, Spain.

W H A T ’S S E L L I N G

Pitter Patter Louisville, CO

ITH A BACKGROUND in TV news, Liz Connor’s keen started with Tea Collection for boys. I typically pull many Europeanunderstanding of demographics and market behavior inspired designs like Creamie and Lemon Loves Lime. Honestly, if you was key to inspiring the next chapter of her career. When pick the right dress, you’re bound to sell out. she moved back to her husband’s home state after giving birth to their first child in London, Connor noticed something missing How about accessories? We love to highlight local vendors, which our from the quaint mining town of Louisville, CO. “There were so many customers really appreciate. I started stocking Baby Jackbyrd Homemade, new moms in the area but not many specialty places to shop without who is run by a local mom. I noticed her felt flower bows on children driving to Denver or Boulder,” Connor says, recalling kids’ boutiques at the playground and fell in love. I also stock Hello Hadley, which was back in London where moms could shop while enjoying the company picked up by Joanna Gaines, and it’s been fun to watch her grow into a of other local mothers. national brand. Baby Bling, Little Zoe Feeling inspired, Connor enrolled in and American Jewel do well, too. night classes to sharpen her business skills before opening the doors to her What do you look for in a brand? I own children’s boutique, Pitter Patter, in will only work with brands that let me 2016. Connor established the 550-squareorder in small batches. Some people foot shop in a remodeled house on Main forget to ask what a minimum order Street, quickly drawing patrons with can be, which is an issue when I have attractive window displays and a warm no storage. I need brands that will let interior. New moms and grandmothers me stock three of their dresses or stagenjoyed the well-curated selection of ger deliveries every month. My stock is clothing, accessories and gifts from top highly curated because I’m limited on brands like Angel Dear, Kickee Pants, space and don’t want my racks packed Tea Collection and Baby Bling. full. Leaving room allows customers to Connor’s No. 1 tip? Remember to see your inventory better—it’s just more look up from the number crunching aesthetically pleasing. and margins once in awhile. “Just listen to the customers and appreciate the What’s next on your agenda? We need relationships you make through good to upgrade our baby gift registry. We’ve customer service,” she says, noting the always offered one, but we’re not online human connection to be the most rewardso we’re in the process of revamping our ing part of being in retail. “When I was website. We get too many requests from working in news, it was all doom and Facebook and Instagram, and it’s just gloom,” Connor says. “Now I deal with not efficient to respond to each post. ‘goo-goo ga-ga’ and giggles every day—it’s That’s a whole source of revenue we’re refreshing to be reminded daily of the missing out on. That said, there’s a lot Liz Connor entices the community with attractive window displays and a warm interior. magic of childhood.” —Aleda Johnson more paperwork and negotiating with brands when you go online. I’ve been How’s business? While the number of stores that have gone out of trying to do my research, so we can make a smooth transition. business concerns me, we’re in high-gross mode here. In fact, we’ve doubled our traffic from last year. The key to keeping sales up has been What kind of research have you done? I’m mostly talking to other figuring out pricing that accommodates different shoppers while still shop owners to get advice on what they have done. I’m under no illuincreasing margins. You can’t waste time on a brand that’s so cute but sion that I know it all, and people love to talk about their business. I’m most of it ends up on the sale rack. The numbers lead us. focusing on applying the same feeling of convenience, efficiency and ease customers can find in the store to the website with the same curated What is the sweet spot? For my specialty dresses, I stay between $60 collection. We can present gift bundle ideas online, too. and $80. In playwear, I can sell $40 dresses all day, but I have to keep boys’ between $29 and $35. For babies, it’s an emotional buy, so I might What do you love most about your job? The relationship with my sell a $100 dress for baby’s first Easter or birthday. But I keep footies in community. It’s amazing when you have a customer come back to you the $30 to $40 range, always valuing quality so it’s not a one-time wear. because they feel a special connection to your store. For example, one lady came in the day we opened and gave birth to her son that same day. What are your best-selling brands? Our whole baby department! That connection is automatic—it’s emotional and lasting. I thought I Specifically, Angel Dear and Kickee Pants are the top sellers in that would be an anonymous business owner in the community, but turns category. For older children, it’s Egg by Susan Lazar, Hatley and I just out I’m a junkie on the connection to our customers. I live for it!

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RE T A I L P R O F I L E

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parents are going to do? Shop!” NEW FISHING HOLES

With overwhelming success in such a short time, Quirk is looking to open a second location near Philadelphia—undaunted by the rumors of a retail apocalypse. “I’m seeing people shopping in boutiques more than they have in the past five to 10 years—but maybe that’s just my take,” she says. “I’m technically a Millennial, so I look at me and my friends’ buying habits and I don’t know the last time we stepped into a Macy’s.” She adds, “Sure, I’m constantly looking on Amazon, but it’s for my day-today products like toilet paper or electronics. But when I’m buying a gift for someone? I’m going to a boutique.” Quirk’s take in the future of retail? It’s summed up in one word: curate. She stresses the importance of merchandising and storytelling within her selection of brands for boys and girls, size newborn to 14. “The store is departmentalized by size so the customer knows exactly where they need to look,” she says, noting Tea Collection, Chloe and Egg by Susan Lazar as a few best-selling brands in addition to any holographic items being hot of late. Quirk adds that the brands she stocks are often based on the support they provide. Of late, she has been scaling back to only ones that provide the best service. “I can’t tell you how important customer service is on my end,” she says. “If I get something in and it’s damaged, how difficult is it for me to call for you to fix that? The line of communication should be open and

easy,” she says. While Bowfish’s sales doubled from last year and the studio is taking off, Quirk is not resting on any laurels. Her next cast is into ecommerce. “This is really going to be my year where I focus on our e-commerce because if I’m curating specific things that people are coming to look for, they’re going to shop online just as easily as they would come into the store,” she says. To prepare, Quirk has been capturing customer emails the past few years, especially since many of them are tourists. She’s also asking brands about their in-stock program capabilities. “If I’m going to take the time to take pictures, write a description and put this dress on my site, I want to know if I can reorder it,” she says. “I don’t want to take in a whole second inventory and have to sit on it just for my e-commerce site because, realistically, that’s what you have to do.” In the meantime, Bowfish Kids’ brickand-mortar busin e s s e s continue to hum along. “Downtowns are bumpin’—we’re all doing great around here,” she says, noting how she’s honed-in on her in-store shopping experience from having a quality selection to offering mini shopping carts for kids. Yet Quirk continues to stay humble, aware that success at retail is a fickle beast. Other shop owners are always warning her that you think you have it all figured out, but the business keeps changing every year. “As a store owner, your job is never done,” Quirk says. “You must constantly evolve and try new things because if you rely solely on one approach, your doors

“YOU MUST CONSTANTLY EVOLVE AND TRY NEW THINGS BECAUSE IF YOU RELY SOLELY ON ONE APPROACH, YOUR DOORS WILL CLOSE UP PRETTY QUICKLY.”

H AU T E TOPICS

DESIGNER CHAT

MARK JEYNES DOESN’T consider himself a designer in the technical sense of the word. While he wasn’t formally trained in the craft, he has nearly 30 years of experience buying, designing and manufacturing kidswear at mainstays like Joules, JoJo Maman Bébé and UK department store John Lewis. “Do I sit and create CADs and tech packs? No,” he says. “I spend a week in an office with pen and paper and draw, chat and organically make Mark Jeynes and Henry it happen. And guess what? My manufacturer loves it that way.” When Jeynes identified a hole in the boys’ market for reasonably priced classic clothing, he channeled his years of industry experience into launching Me & Henry. The brand is modeled closely after Jeynes’ own aesthetic of classic British prep with polos and collared one-pieces in a primarily muted color palette. “I love the vintage look where boys dressed as smart little men before the term ‘athleisure’ was invented,” he says, adding that he keeps things fresh by playing with prints and textures not usually found in boys’ apparel. For Spring ’19, Jeynes introduced slubs and seersuckers as well as cotton with a linen hand feel. The vintage color palette of fall translates to spring with a nautical slant of navy and white with injections of yellows, reds, greens and grays. And while a cowboy tee was designed with his large Texas market in mind, the rest of the collection (sizes newborn to age 10) is decidedly about stripes. Since launching earlier this year, Me & Henry has grown by leaps and bounds, according to Jeynes. He credits quality fabrics and the

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right classic styles with a vintage twist at a sensible price for the success. “People will spend a small fortune on girls, but overprice your boys’ line and you’re dead,” he says. Also intriguing buyers is a storybook that details the adventures of a little boy and his English cocker spaniel Henry, the line’s namesake. Stores receive a batch of the books as a gift-with-purchase. “The children hopefully then fall in love with Henry and follow the real Henry on social media,” Jeynes says. “I’ve even been asked to sign copies!” —Aleda Johnson Did you expect Me & Henry to take off this fast? No, I’ve been blown away with the immediate success! Being British, we wear school uniforms in most cases, so I didn’t even have back-to-school in my head. But when everyone pointed out how perfect the clothes were for school, I altered the delivery to mid-July, which has meant many stores have sold out by mid-August. But the U.S. and Canada are not my only markets. I have launched the line in Japan with huge success, which includes four pop-up shops happening across the country. I also have distributors signed in Australia and New Zealand. Who is the quintessential Me & Henry customer? Every little lad! Turns out boys are quite happy to dress up. It’s the parents who struggle to know what to dress them in at the right price. I’ve found every little lad who has worn our pants with suspenders overjoyed with them. They don’t just want jogger pants and sports shirts! I’ve now been asked many times to add girls’ wear—so in truth the ‘Me’ in Me & Henry was always meant to be anyone…boy, girl or dad. What have you learned designing for children? To be adventurous with fabrics and embrace the stripe! I am fan of stripes, but on boys it’s really tough to inject a point of difference. Girls get florals, prints

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and an amazing array of colors, fabrics and embellishments, but boys are tougher to get the color combination, stripe layout and great fabric right. Little lads also like to look like their fathers, so a big bit of the success has been the ‘mini man’ look, which I plan to continue. How’s Henry’s following on social media? Great! I went from zero to 400 stores following me to just over 12,000 in 3 months. Many are mums excited to know about the brand, so I dedicate quite a bit of time to satisfying their thirst for new content, including updates on which stores now stock Me & Henry. I’ve always been active on my personal accounts, so it’s been quite enjoyable seeing the instant reactions to new photos and posts from the brand. What might people be surprised to learn about you? I have no idea how I fell into fashion or kidswear. I was supposed to be a French teacher but ended up working in a huge UK department store for more than 20 years, and most of that time was in the childrenswear sector. I love that it has been a journey that has seen me sell, manage, buy and design kids clothing—I just wish I decided to do it 10 years ago. What do you love most about being a designer? I travel a lot for work and pleasure and get a lot of inspiration from the oddest places. I recently went to the Neon Museum in Las Vegas, and the way the light at dusk fell on the vintage signs made me see colors I thought were perfect for the next season’s palette. Being able to see that, choose fabrics and design something to personally sell and hear great feedback on? You can’t beat it!