2019 $10.00
COUNTRY CHARM A BALANCE OF RUSTIC AND REFINED FOR BABY Sovereign of Style G.H. Hurt & Son Mini Me Mania Spice of Life Leigh Rawdon Reflects on Tea’s Roots
OCTOBER 2019 CONTENTS
Noelle Heffernan Publisher Emily Beckman Editor Nancy Campbell Trevett McCandliss Creative Directors EDITORIAL
FEATURES
Aleda Johnson Assistant Editor Mariah Walker Contributing Fashion Editor
8 Royal Standards Fourth-generation executive Gillian Taylor, director of G.H. Hurt & Son, on embracing tradition while remaining relevant with today’s consumers. By Emily Beckman
ADVERTISING Jennifer Craig Special Accounts Manager PRODUCTION
20 Farm Fresh A wholesome spring harvest of playful patchwork, darling denims, free-flowing frocks and animal accents. By Emily Beckman
Laurie Guptill Production Manager Mike Hoff Webmaster Bruce Sprague Circulation Director CORPORATE
DEPA RTM EN TS
Caroline Diaco VP/Group Publisher
4 Editor’s Note
Greg Dutter Editorial Director
6 Scene & Heard
Carroll Dowden Chairman
12 Trend Watch
Mark Dowden President & CEO
14 A Note To My Younger Self
Agnes Alves Controller
15 BTS 16 In the Bag 32 Designer Chat 34 What’s Selling
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17 Be the Buyer
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36 From the Archives
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On cover: Siena wears Oh Baby bubble and Consciously sandals. Photography by Mark Andrew/The Garden Party; styling by Emily Beckman; grooming by Denise Ferrara; styling assistance by Khalila White. Shot on location at Long Island Yarn & Farm in Yaphank, NY.
This page: Carter wears Aimama cardigan, Marmar Copenhagen striped one-piece, leggings by Baby Clic and Nomandino boots.
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EARNSHAW’S INFANTS, GIRLS AND BOYS WEAR REVIEW ISSN 0161-2786 (USPS-320-090) The business and fashion magazine of the childrenswear industry is published 10x a year by Wainscot Media, 214 West 39th Street, Suite 205 New York, NY 10018. The publishers of this magazine do not assume responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage is paid in New York, N.Y. and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: U.S. $48; Rates outside U.S. available upon request. Single price copy, $5. Copyright 2011 by Wainscot Media. Postmaster: Send address changes to Earnshaw’s Infants, Girls and Boys Wear Review, P.O. Box 8548, Lowell, MA 01853-8548. Publisher is not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts or photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender. Wainscot Media will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. No portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. Printed in USA.
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EDITOR’S NOTE
Adaptive Apparel Arrives MANY NIGHTS I’VE stood in front of my closet, thumbing through hanger after hanger, only to step away discouraged. “Ugh, I have nothing to wear,” I’ll huff in disgust. Perhaps many of you can relate? You know that mounting frustration that eventually reaches a boiling point and sends you into shopper mode in search of something to wear. More often than not, whether it’s in stores or online, I’ll find something to alleviate my sartorial disgust. It could be cool pants, a pretty blouse, killer shoes—or all the above. I become fashion happy again. Mission accomplished! But what about the one billion disabled people—15 percent of the world’s population—who find shopping for clothes to be a far more challenging, frustrating and, too often, fruitless endeavor? For too long, this demographic has been faced with that “nothing to wear” disgust due to a very limited selection. Many have no choice but to custom order clothes or have them tailored, which can be both timely and expensive. Others just make do with ill-fitting, uncomfortable and unflattering garments. In fact, the whole process the disabled community goes through to shop for clothes drains away the joy a new outfit should provide—the ability to make the wearer feel and look good. When a person, especially a child, feels great about what they’re wearing it’s empowering. It helps to build self-esteem. Why should they miss out on the positive side of fashion? Why should the parents of these children not have the same breadth of options or experience the joy in buying adorable kids’ clothing? Beyond just doing the right thing, the category presents enormous sales potential. The apparel needs of people with disabilities and chronic disease could reach $288.7 billion globally this year and grow to $349.9 billion in four years, according to a report by Coresight Research. The study indicates the category will hit $47.3 billion in the U.S. alone this year, and it’s forecasted to expand to $54.8 billion by 2023. The growth, led by an aging population and people living longer thanks to advancements in medical care, coupled with increased awareness, is why a handful of brands have begun to answer the call. It was evident at the Runway of Dreams’ category-specific adaptive apparel fashion show held during New York Fashion Week last month. The event, appropriately titled Fashion Revolution 2019, was held at Cipriani 42nd Street. The sold-out venue showcased models of all ages and abilities, sporting adaptive clothing by Tommy Hilfiger, Zappos and Kohl’s. Many key Spring ’20 trends
were on display featuring subtle modifications, like one-handed zippers, adjustable waistbands and easy closures to ensure wearers comfort, autonomy and style. It was an impressive display of high function and fashion uniting on the runway. What’s more, it showed the adaptive apparel category has (finally) arrived. Lynn Husum, co-founder of Appaman, was so inspired by a Runway of Dreams fashion show she attended last spring that her company got straight to work on an adaptive apparel collection. Highlights include simple adjustments like removing tags as well as more complicated measures such as adding seam allowances and strategically placed hook-and-eye closures to accommodate braces and other medical devices. (See p. 6 for more details.) The collection will make its debut for Spring ’20. Available via the company’s website and on Zappos Adaptive at the start, Husum’s aim is to get the conversation started and then expand the collection as well as distribution beginning next fall. It helps, she adds, that Appaman’s factory partner is “very excited” about the category extension, and the company was able to negotiate pricing to match its other collections. It’s also one of those rare cases where she welcomes competition. Husum’s reasoning: The market is still woefully underserved and more brands entering the mix will expand offerings for consumers and enable more retailers to devote attention to the category. I couldn’t agree more. Inclusivity regarding race, gender and sexual orientation has come to the forefront of our society and there’s no reason why people with disabilities shouldn’t be a part of this great awakening. Just as our industry has embraced gender neutral clothing and juvenile products, adaptive apparel deserves attention. It’s a category that isn’t gender specific, spans dress to casual and doesn’t have any age or size restrictions. The demand is broader and potentially greater than many other established categories. It’s also compatible with in-store and online shopping formats—one channel won’t necessarily cannibalize the other. What’s not to be intrigued by? In addition to those factors fueling the category’s potential viability going forward, Runway of Dreams founder Mindy Scheier offers a straightforward hypothesis: “You need to look at your inventory and ask yourself, ‘Who is not in the room?’” For too long, people with disabilities, young and old, have been on the outside looking in when it comes to fashion. The time has come to let them join the party. Welcome!
E M I LY B E C K M A N Editor
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SC E N E & H E A R D
Anta Kids Struts NYFW
A SUBSIDIARY OF Chinese sportswear company Anta Group, Anta Kids made a splash during the recent New York Fashion Week. Notable front row guests included Candice Swanepoel, Alessandra Ambrosio and their minis. “We’re creating awareness among a global audience that Chinese sportswear can be trendy,” says Lin Xianghua, CEO of Anta Kids, noting the goal is for the brand to be recognized internationally within the next decade. “Being at New York Fashion Week not only gives us a chance to learn from
Appaman Adds Adaptive Collection JOINING HEAVY HITTERS like Tommy Hilfiger, Zappos, Target and Nike, Appaman is introducing its first-ever adaptive apparel collection for Spring ’20. The idea to expand into the rapidly growing category came about after co-founder, Lynn Husum, attended a Runway of Dreams fashion show last spring. Moved by the all-inclusive nature of adaptive wear, the exec didn’t see any reason why Appaman shouldn’t enter the worthy category. “Our collections use such soft fabrications with a wide variation on style, so there is plenty room to move in this direction,” Husum says. “We didn’t have to sacrifice fashion at all. We just had to figure out how to make the fashion functional.” Indeed, Appaman has merged fashion and function seamlessly—a process that involved plenty of brainstorming sessions with its design team and focus groups.
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international brands and designers, but it lets us show off a Chinese kids’ sportswear brand to the world.” During the runway show, Anta Kids showcased three collections, including a collaboration with Opening Ceremony. The parternship featured futuristic styles, vibrant colors and several Olympic motifs. Sporty silhouettes spanned velour shorts, tank tops and belted jackets with neon accents. Every outfit was accessorized with Anta Kids gear, such as headbands, duffle bags and bucket hats. Forward-thinking statements were made from head to toe, highlighted by self-tying shoes that include smart chips embedded in the soles that detect pressure and tighten around the foot automatically. Xianghua reports the response to the Anita Kids x Opening Ceremony collection has been strong and adds that more collaborations are in the works.
After several fittings and hands-on sessions, simple adjustments were made, like removing tags and other potentially uncomfortable elements to more complicated fixes like adding seam allowances and strategically placing hook-and-eye closures to accommodate braces and other medical devices. With styles that span dressy to casual in sizes XS (6/7) to L (14), Husum assures there’s something for everyone. “When developing our style guide we saw a hole in the adaptive market for fine tailoring and suiting, so we thought who better to do that than Appaman,” she says. “We also rounded out the collection with favorites from the coming season for boys and girls.” Available exclusively on its website and through Zappos Adaptive, the brand will extend the line to all vendors for Fall ’20. “This limited availability is only because we started development after the Spring/ Summer ’20 selling season and samples were not ready for the trade shows,” Husum says, noting she hopes more brands and retailers see the potential of adaptive apparel going forward. “This category has been ignored for too long and offering fashion for all seems like a positive move for any company.”
Joules’ Wandering Welly IN SUPPORT OF its Right as Rain collection, Joules has rolled out the Wandering Welly, an interactive POP experience for its retail partners. The (really big) boot is brimming with the British brand’s giveaways, like water bottles, notebooks, backpacks, pencil cases, scarves and gloves. Pa-trons are encouraged to select treats from the oversized boot, no purchase necessary! “The Wandering Welly is a uniquely Joules approach to supporting our key independent retailers across the country,” says Dave Wood, U.S. general manager. “It’s a way of bringing the brand out to the market and into the heart of the country, which is something we value and is the core of who we are in the U.K.” To be considered, a store must sell Joules rainwear and be nominated by a sales rep. “We also make sure the retailer has enough room for the Wandering Welly in their store,” Wood adds with a laugh. Once selected, the Instagram-worthy activity arrives on a Thursday afternoon to be displayed through the weekend. Then the retailer ships The Wandering Welly off to the next location with a UPS label provided by Joules. “We take care of everything down to scheduling the pick-up,” Wood says, affirming the entire process is free for its retailers. “The people who visited our store all had fun,” says Mikako Fukagawa, buyer from Allen’s Department Store in Leominster, MA. “It was a great opportunity to let people know about Joules.” The owner of 5th Street Clothing in Chico, CA , Jennie Munson agrees, saying she was “thrilled to be part of the adventure!”
Bowfish Kids Takes Action in Climate Crisis INSPIRED BY 16-YEAR-OLD climate activist Greta Thunberg, Caitlin Quirk, owner of Bowfish Kids in Asbury Park, NJ, was determined to involve her local community in last month’s Global Climate Strike. Uncomfortable however with asking kids to skip school for #FridaysforFuture walkouts, the retailer went to the drawing board for a less controversial alternative that would still raise awareness. Designing her own “Global Climate Strike” T-shirts, Quirk encouraged customers to purchase a tee (all proceeds were donated to Thunberg’s Fridays for Future Foundation) and wear it at school for the week of the strike. As added incentive, Quirk rewarded participating kids with a free EcoVessel water bottle if they proved they wore the shirt all week with daily social media updates that included the challenge’s designated hashtag. She also organized an in-store kickoff
event where kids of all ages were interviewed about what climate change means to them. The interviews were then edited into a video montage and sent to local and state politicians. “The participation around this local event far exceeded my expectations,” Quirk says, noting that more than 70 participants purchased shirts and took part in the promotional campaign. “It’s clear that sustainability is not something young people are going to ignore and it means it should be on every buyer’s radar.” Quirk’s concern about climate change and the environment in general isn’t a passing publicity stunt. Bowfish Kids publicly announced a five-year plan last month that promises more sustainable solutions, like using 100 percent biodegradable glitter at its parties, installing solar panels, carrying eco-friendly brands and officially becoming a New Jersey-certified sustainable business. “It’s scary to take this leap, but it’s my hope that everyone who has supported me in the past will support these changes now,” she says. Bowfish has already begun alerting vendors that their partnerships may be in jeopardy if they don’t commit to sustainable business practices. It’s a policy Quirk believes she must follow through on. “As part of the children’s industry, I feel we’re particularly responsible for taking the impact of climate change seriously,” she says. “I’m not stopping until I’m doing everything I can to educate others and have a positive impact on my little customers’ futures.”
Q&A B Y E M I LY B E C K M A N
Royal Standards FOURTH-GENERATION EXECUTIVE GILLIAN TAYLOR, DIRECTOR OF G.H. HURT & SON, ON EMBRACING TRADITION WHILE REMAINING RELEVANT WITH TODAY’S CONSUMERS. LIKE WILLY WONKA opening the gates of his mystical chocolate factory, Gillian Taylor spent weeks last month preparing for G.H. Hurt & Son’s annual public showcase during England’s Heritage Open Days festival. As one of the 5,000 participating historic events, hundreds of curious patrons traveled from near and far to tour the family company’s headquarters that includes the largest collection of authentic hand frame knitting machines—designed by Rev. William Lee in 1589! To add historical perspective, veteran staff stationed around the Nottingham factory provided briefings and answered questions. It was a memorable day, one that never gets old, for G.H. Hurt & Son to showcase its rich history while simultaneously proving it’s still going strong. “With over 100 years of heritage, we certainly have a lot of stories to share,” Taylor says of the traditional lace-knitting company launched in 1912 by her great grandfather, George Henry Hurt. “Our modern knitting machinery stands alongside some of the original hand frame knitting machines—one of the most extensive collections in the world and a reminder of how far we’ve come.”
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Often referred to as “The Shawl Factory,” G.H. Hurt & Son has built a long-trusted reputation designing and manufacturing high-quality women’s shawls and scarves, baby christening shawls and a variety of other lace-knitted goods. Still producing out of its original location— an old seed warehouse, built in 1781—Taylor is currently focused on modernizing operations and connecting with younger customers, relaying G.H. Hurt & Son’s rich history through an updated website, social media strategy and live events like Heritage Open Days. “You have to be in the action—that’s how branding works today,” the exec says. “Now, more than ever, it’s important to be clear about who you are and ensure you tell your story in an honest, genuine way.” Taylor has been doing just that since following in her father Henry Hurt’s footsteps and joining the business in 1983, at age 18. Her career salad days was a period of relative stability and success, when G.H. Hurt & Son employed up to 40 staff members. However, the ’90s proved to be a challenging time—for all British manufacturing. The local knitting industry faced increasing low-cost competition from suppliers
in Asia. It became a case of adapt or die. The company teamed with designers around the world while it updated its delicate lace-knitting processes to create relevant and interesting goods. Taylor’s knack for spotting the latest trends added a new dimension and enabled G.H. Hurt & Son to partner with many international design houses, such as Burberry, Dior and Paul Smith. She followed that successful endeavor in the early aughts by championing a rebranding and introducing the company’s first private label, the Heritage Collection, featuring a blend of traditional yet modernized patterns and hues. Taylor also fine-tuned the company’s online presence to attract a broader global audience. “As retail has consolidated, we haven’t been able to replace many of our white label clients,” Taylor says. “Instead, we’ve naturally began putting more focus into the creation and branding of our own label.” Taylor, however, is equally committed to the success of its retail partners, which spans hundreds of boutiques worldwide. “They will always come first,” she says, adding, “Quite frankly, our product is meant to be sold through a retailer. We need someone who knows our story and can educate the customer on the piece of history they’re holding in their hands.” It’s one reason why G.H. Hurt & Son isn’t sold just anywhere. Retail partnerships are selective and cultivated over time. “We’re very cognizant of who we sell to and what we sell,” Taylor says. “We’re not going to sell a boutique the same product as its neighbor around the corner. That doesn’t benefit them or us! We want everyone to have success.” Two more key ingredients to the company’s success at retail: uniqueness and quality. “It’s important to remember that a good qualityproduct extends far beyond the product itself,” she says, noting that it’s about going the extra mile with great customer service, sustainable packaging and all the other bits that make the customer experience memorable. “That’s what has kept G.H. Hurt & Son relevant over 100 years later.” Another factor in keeping G.H. Hurt & Son relevant all these years is its long royal customer blood lines. It all started with Queen Elizabeth II purchasing a shawl when Prince Charles was born in 1948. The prince continued the tradition with his wife Princess Diana, using G.H. Hurt & Son’s baby shawls for their newborns, Prince William and Prince Harry. In turn, the Duke of Cambridge, William, and his Duchess, Catherine, have relied on the trusted manufacturer over the last decade, selecting a new design for each of their three children: George, Charlotte and Louis. And most recently, Prince Harry and wife Meghan Markle introduced their first son, Archie, to the world in May, wrapped in an ornate G.H. Hurt & Son design that takes up to three days to create. The exposure has been (quite) good for business—a sales bump with each royal baby’s public debut. “From the moment the couple steps out of the hospital, it doesn’t take the public long to go find our website,” Taylor confirms. “It’s so exciting that we’ve been able to continue our tradition of lace-knitting with future generations of the royal family.” The far-reaching publicity does come with its fair share of challenges—like keeping up with production demands and making sure shipping runs smoothly. It’s Taylor’s job to make sure it all goes right. “With information moving so quickly, businesses must be ready and responsive,” she says. “We have to put in many extra hours and invest heavily in systems to keep up with orders. But it’s all worth it as G.H. Hurt & Son would have never been able to reach a global market this effectively without the incorporation of wonderful new technologies.” On that note, Taylor says G.H. Hurt & Son’s formula for success going forward is a marriage of technology and tradition that produces exceptional quality garments. Ever since gaining traction with its knitted striped mohair scarves and lace fabric for flapper dresses in the ’20s, quality has been the company’s driving principle. It’s why items are often passed down from generation to generation as cherished family heirlooms. In fact, silk-lined lace jumpers and bedjackets
Top: Originally an old seed warehouse, built in 1781, G.H. Hurt & Son has operated in the same historic building since launching in 1912. Bottom: Director Gillian Taylor (center) is supported by her father Henry Hurt (right) and son James Taylor (left).
crafted from its finest lace fabrics have become sought-after vintage items, including mohair shawls like the one featured in the 1939 classic, Gone With the Wind. “Quality is everything at G.H. Hurt & Son,” Taylor says. “It’s a challenge to achieve and a process perfected over time, but we make it happen.” What’s the secret to a century-plus of company longevity? It’s our willingness to always move forward as a business and a family, really. That’s what keeps us relevant. Even when the modernizing of
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Q&A SMALL TALK What was your first paying job?
We had a renowned rose grower not far from where I grew up in Nottingham, England. I got a summer job working in the garden. Perhaps that inspired my love for color and design?
What’s the last movie you saw?
The Favourite, starring Olivia Colman as Queen Anne. Well worth a watch! Who’s your most coveted dinner guest? David
a scarf recently where the inspiration came from a car park, of all things. It had these wonderful hexagonal shapes on the front of it.
Attenborough. He brings the natural world into our homes, inspiring millions of people to preserve the world and address environmental issues.
If you could hire anyone, who would it be? Sir Paul Smith, the iconic British
What are three items you can’t live without? Nespresso
What’s inspiring you? I designed
designer. He’s local and so passionate about his designs.
coffee machine, a device to play music and fruit.
Celebrating life in the Animal Kingdom and
beyond...
SPRING 2020: ZOOLOGY & BIOLOGY
@kickeepants #kickeepants kickeepants.com
technology first threatened traditional hand frame knitters back in our earliest years, my great grandfather persevered with his entrepreneurial dream and found ways to adapt and survive. I believe the leadership with each new generation has been particularly good at evolving the business to meet the needs of the modern consumer—even during the toughest times. We’re very much a family firm. My son has just finished university and will be coming to join us as fifth generation. But it’s not just the Hurt bloodline that has stayed loyal to our company. Several families have long times to our company as hand frame knitting is often a skill passed through generations. Who are some of those families? Frank Oxley was one of the original hand frame knitters that joined our firm back in 1912. His frame was used prior to 1912 in Oxley’s Frame Shop in Park Road, Chilwell—just a few steps away from our present factory. Frank knitted his hand frame at the firm until 1948 and became a father to four sons and two daughters. Two of his sons, Ernest and Harold, joined the company. Ernest worked on his hand frame until 1952 and Harold until 1972. Harold was known for his efficient production and could produce around 60 scarves in an eight-hour day! Both of their wives were also
employed by G.H. Hurt & Son for finishing trades, such as pinning out. Ernest and Harold’s cousin Jeff, was our last hand frame knitter, who worked for us until 1984. Then there’s Reginald Robbins, who is our current head knitting mechanic. He started as an apprentice at age 16 in 1971 and now manages all factory machinery, from our authentic hand frames to our modern computer-operated machines. When Reg first joined the firm, his mother, Marg, and grandmother, Vi, were employed here in finishing trades. Reg even met his wife here, Jayne Wilson, the daughter of Irene Wilson, who joined the firm in 1986. What do you think it is that makes working at G.H. Hurt & Son a life-long family affair? There’s something exhilarating about being a part of such a long-standing company and producing this artisanal product that’s respected by everyone, from regular moms to royalty. We’re such a good-hearted group, it just makes sense to want your children to have the same rewarding work experience. It’s a unique opportunity to hold a spot in G.H. Hurt & Son’s history, so why not pass it on? You mentioned earlier having survived the ‘toughest times.’ What are some examples? My grandfather fought in World War I and then returned home, at age 20, in 1918, and first worked alongside his father and later managed to sustain the firm through World War II. At the helm, he weathered many restrictions on raw materials and skilled labor. This was perhaps the toughest period in our company’s history. But ultimately, Harrods began buying G.H. Hurt & Son’s shawls in the ’40s, and the company’s
reputation for its exquisite fine lacy knitting surged. During the ’60s and ’70s, my father worked hard to convert traditional lacy patterns from hand frames to specially adapted powered knitting machines. It revolutionized the business and enabled an increase in production. Did you always intend to join the family business? To be honest, not quite. I’ve always had a love for animals and thought that one day I might become a veterinarian. Funny enough, my daughter is taking on that profession now! But once I realized I was more creative than scientific, I decided to continue my path with the family business. No one pushed me. It just turned out to be a natural fit. Any regrets? None! It’s been such an exciting chapter in my life—so much new technology and subsequent growth to be had. I’m proud to have built the digital side of our business significantly. That includes hiring a photographer and an entire digital marketing team. We’re also selling our brand online direct-to-consumer (DTC) for the first time, which has been extremely beneficial. Taking into account the rise of DTC as well as online competition in general, what might a traditional childrenswear store look like in five years? Wow, that’s a difficult question. Things are changing fast, aren’t they? The stores that will remain are the ones that focus on purchasing quality products and offering great service. Customers have always told us how much they appreciate our old-fashioned customer service. We hope our shawls go into stores that offer a similar level of >35
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TREND WATCH
Royal Treatment THE NEW GENERATION of British royalty is introducing regime change in couture. Smocking, hand-embroidery and knitted intarsia have the royal seal of approval signaling a return to the classics. —Emily Beckman
Pepa & Co shirt and bloomers set
Fina Ejerique cape
Dona Carmen Mary Janes
G.H. Hurt & Son baby shawl
Feltman Brothers dress
Rachel Riley
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A N O T E T O M Y YOU N G E R S E L F
Adventure Seeker LEIGH RAWDON, CEO OF TEA COLLECTION, REFLECTS ON A CAREER OF FULFILLING DREAMS AND GIVING BACK TO CHILDREN AROUND THE WORLD. DEAR LEIGH, It’s 1999, and I hope you’re sitting down, because we need to talk. I know what you’re thinking. You’re watching all your Harvard Business School classmates drop out to pursue overnight success at top new firms like Webvan, eToys and Kozmo. You’re also wondering if you and your boyfriend have the kind of everlasting love Brad Pitt found with Jennifer Aniston. You’re feeling something you can’t name, but you’ll later learn it’s FOMO, which stands for Fear of Missing Out. You hate that feeling, but you are surrounded by future titans of Wall Street and Silicon Valley who display their ambition like a rising sun headband on the Karate Kid. It all leaves you wondering, what will I do with my life? Well, I’m here to remind you that beneath your congenial Memphis, TN, manners, you have a hard-driving spirit that pushes you to pursue your dreams. The things that are most important to you—those big, audacious goals you set for yourself—I’m happy to report, come true! And that idea that’s been percolating in your head all year—the one where you’ll forego the typical path and start a business from scratch—will be worth the risk. You’ll have to work a corporate job to save money before you can launch. But it’s manageable and a good learning experience. Plus, you can write your business plan on the side. You’ll think you’re exhausted at times, but you’ll look back—especially after having children—and realize you had no idea what exhausted even meant! Spoiler alert: the company you create is called Tea Collection. While everyone you know is chasing technology stock options, you’ll carefully build a brand of children’s clothing inspired by world travel. You always wanted to see the world, right? As a little girl, you never left the country, but you loved looking through Aunt Freda’s photo albums. You ran your fingers over the stamps in her passport and sensed that the world was a great, big, beautiful place you’d one day explore. You’ll find a way to turn your dream of travel into a unique company and mission. At Tea, you and your team of designers will travel to a different country twice a year and create distinctive, collectible, durable clothing inspired by the destination. You’ll engage with new cultures,
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taste new foods and attempt different languages. You’ll start with a small collection of sweaters, building up to more than 1,000 unique pieces every year—35 countries and counting! The other dream-come-true: you’ll be in a position to give back 10 percent of your profits. From day one, you will decide to partner with grassroots organizations that ensure a better world for children everywhere. For example, in 2019, you and your team will travel to Nepal and donate 1,000 school uniforms enabling more girls to attend school in Kathmandu. Well-meaning consultants will tell you to plow your profits back into your company or your pocket, but giving back is what makes it all worthwhile. Seeing the world is important, bringing the world to children is even better, but doing your part to make life better for kids everywhere is what it’s all about. Now, is it all whirlwind adventures and Kodak moments? If only! Running an independent, design-driven business is not something they teach you at business school. The challenge is real. You will have to learn about manufacturing, not just in the U.S., but in China, India and Peru. You will wish you paid more attention when you learned about cash flow statements. You’ll spend hours wandering IKEA at 10 p.m., looking to replace broken shelves for your trade show booth in Atlanta, and you will battle for lines of credit, compete for talent, customers and digital ads. Sometimes you’ ll feel run-down and frustrated, and you’ll want to go home and make all the calls, texts and emails stop! But please trust me when I tell you, you got this. Just like with your kids (and I’m not going to ruin the surprise by telling you anything about them other than they are healthy, handsome and smart—just like their dad), you will always know, instinctively, deep down, the right thing to do with your first baby, Tea. You’ll face every challenge with determination. You will make tough decisions. And you will ‘outwit, outplay and outlast’ the dot-com craze. (Tune in when “Survivor” premieres on CBS to get that reference.) You will build a business you can be proud of, a brand that stands for quality and give back to all little citizens of the world.
BEHIND THE SEAMS
Reversible Logic Tohawi doubles its value with two-in-one designs. A BUSY MOTHER of three (with another on the way), Miryam Ackerson started sewing clothing for her children by following YouTube tutorials in the evenings. But it wasn’t until the self-taught designer noticed her fixation on making the inside of every design as beautiful as the exterior that the concept for Tohawi, was born. “I’ve always believed every inch of a garment should be a work of art,” Ackerson says. “That’s why I decided to launch a collection of reversible kids’ clothing.” Available in sizes newborn to 6, Ackerson plans on expanding the line to size 8 following several requests during the brand’s debut this year. “Turns out there really aren’t many reversible options on the market, so we’re receiving a lot of interest,” she says. “Even having a bit of a higher price point hasn’t been an issue because customers see the increased value of having two dresses in one.” The New York-based designer reports its
Liberty of London-printed dresses as the most popular of its Spring ’20 collection. “Buyers not only love the reversibility, but they have also commented on the easy-to-wear construction that uses snaps instead of buttons,” Ackerson says. “I’ve always believed kids should have the option of dressing themselves for the sake of building confidence.” Ackerson also believes in dressing siblings in coordinating styles to promote unity. “Kids can run around at a party and be able to spot their brothers and sisters easily, which creates an instant feeling of ‘belonging,’” she explains. Coming from a large family in Barcelona where her mother would often dress her kids in matching outfits, Ackerson takes pride in passing this practice down to her customers. “It’s an old Spanish tradition, which I’m happy to see has become popular in the States,” she says, adding that most of her inspiration comes from the traditional clothing of her childhood. Tohawi’s wholesome design ethos is further reflected in its fair-trade manufacturing practices and sourcing organic materials to protect sensitive skin. “Our U.S.-made quality has certainly been a draw with retailers,” Ackerson says. “And while I’m sure we will make some adjustments to production as we grow, everything we produce will always be done responsibly. There’s no reversing that!” —Aleda Johnson
IN THE BAG 1. Loulou Lollipop teething necklace 2. Welly insulated water bottle 3. Loulou Lollipop swaddle 4. Peregrine Kids footie pajamas 5. Baby Brezza breast-like bottle 6. Booginhead pacifier purse 7. Twelve Little diaper bag 8. Booginhead pacifier clip 9. Burt’s Bees Baby diaper rash ointment 10. Gerber soft-baked grain bar 11. Carlomagno socks
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Bold and Balanced The Twelve Little diaper bag is for busy mamas that want a pop of personality and everyday practicality. The grab-and-go friendly design includes several deep pockets for secure packing, a main zipper compartment that opens three-quarters of the way down for quick access and roomy interior dimensions for parenting essentials—like veggie-printed swaddles, fresh socks and arithmetic-inspired jammies. —Emily Beckman
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O C TO B E R 2 0 1 9
PHOTOGRAPHY BY TREVETT MCCANDLISS
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BE THE BUYER
A Firm Foundation Bridget Stickline, owner of Wee Chic Boutique in Lutherville, MD, on discovering your style and sticking to it. GAIN EXPERIENCE If you want to be a buyer and you don’t have
retail experience, get some! Go work in children’s store. Be on the front lines and get a strong handle on what drives decision-making for the client. Effective merchandising, a balanced mix and a trained sales team are all essential for a successful retail concept. A great buyer understands how each of those factors should impact buying choices from learning the ropes firsthand. CARVE A NICHE One of the true pleasures of owning your own
retail concept is that you can choose who you do business with based on your standards. Those standards are the guiding tenets of your assortment. For instance, merchandising and design direction are what attracts me to a brand. Quality is non-negotiable because that has real-time impact on consumer confidence. Lastly, I appreciate brands that have a good handle on their supply chain and are responsible in their manufacturing. EXPAND YOUR HORIZONS Sourcing new product is a full-time
job. To truly be effective in creating a dynamic mix, use a combination of several avenues—trade shows, social media, press, word of mouth, etc. It’s also about travel and exploration. When I shop in other markets, I always find new and interesting things. Poorly built lines that have one or two great pieces but no collection drive me crazy. Bad quality fabrics are another deal breaker for me. Kids are tactile creatures. Hand feel should be a religion in our industry. We touch everything before we put pen to paper. It’s another standard that our clients have come to expect. DETERMINE THE DEAL BREAKERS
I’ve been a buyer for over 20 years so there’s been a lot of evolution in the process. Road reps have given way to Nuorder and Faire. While I appreciate the convenience of writing orders on those platforms, I’m highly discouraged by the continued reduction in tradeshow schedules. In the same way there’s a consumer that doesn’t want to shop online, I’m not interested in a marketplace that is wholly virtual. Experience and connection is the way forward for brick-and-mortar retail, and wholesale needs those elements as well. That said, I’m thrilled by cloud-based POS systems with robust reporting capabilities. As an analyst, I love being able to see my business at any hour, from anywhere with an internet connection. We’re newly running Springboard, and I would highly recommend it. VIRTUAL REALITY CHECK
The baby industry’s only trade + consumer show all under one roof
SAVE THE DATE! APRIL 2–4, 2020
Kay Bailey Hutchison Convention Center Dallas, TX
Visit www.jpmashow.org
TREND WATCH
Idol Worship
Stella Cove
DESIGNERS ARE DOUBLING down on the mini me style movement with coordinatingto matchy-matchy ensembles for Spring ’20. —Aleda Johnson
Wolf + Rita girls’ dress and matching shirt Love Bubby one-piece and women’s top
Dr. Martens kids’ and women’s glitter boots
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Bearpaw women’s wedge and kids’ shoe
Joules men’s and boys’ outfit
Twelve Little leopard diaper bag and matching backpack
A WHOLESOME SPRING HARVEST OF PLAYFUL PATCHWORK, DARLING DENIMS, FREE-FLOWING FROCKS AND ANIMAL ACCENTS. PHOTOGRAPHY BY MARK ANDREW • STYLING BY EMILY BECKMAN
Siena wears yellow dress by Kariu, soft-soled western boots by Nomandino and ML Kids crochet belt; Valentina wears Ren & Rouge dress with Durango cowboy boots.
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Janey wear ML Kids dress and Durango western boots. Opposite: Siena wears Isobella & Chloe dress with Consciously sandals. 22
Carter wears Boboli polo, Mud Pie one-piece and soft-soled boots by Nomandino; John wears sweater, shirt and jeans by Aimama with Twisted X cow print shoes.
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Harper wears Beet World top, cut-off jean shorts by Yellow Sub and Bearpaw white sandals. Opposite: John wears yellow cardigan by Munster Kids with shirt and pants by Joe’s Jeans and Durango boots. 26
John wears Aimama sweater, Joe’s Jeans pants and Twisted X shoes. 28
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Carter wears Boboli plaid shirt, Go Gently pants, Nomandino softsoled boots. Opposite: Valentina wears dress by Coquelicot, Bows Arts bow and Bearpaw sandals. Styling assistance by Khalila White; grooming by Denise Ferrara. Shot on location at Long Island Yarn & Farm, Yaphank, NY.
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DESIGNER CHAT
LITTLE ZI RUNCHING NUMBERS AS a credit risk analyst at a top-tier financial institution by day and designing childrenswear by night (and weekends), Angela Phun-Corsino’s lifestyle defines the term “workaholic.” Yearning for more creativity than a career in finance would allow, the fourth-generation entrepreneur teamed with her mother, Zizzi Phun, an experienced tailor and bridal designer, to try their hand at childrenswear full-time with the launch of Little Zi in 2017. “It’s such an upbeat and friendly industry,” Phun-Corsino says, comparing it to the rigid, calculated environment of a banking institution. “The research and preparation to finally launch our own label was extensive, but the overall atmosphere and motivating individuals we’ve met along the way have made every extra hour worth it.” Inspired by Phun-Corsino’s parents’ roots, Little Zi sources exclusively from Peru, a region known for its luxurious Pima cotton. “With a focus on
kidswear
sizes up to 24 months, the softness of our fabric is imperative,” Phun-Corsino says, adding that the mother-daughter duo has been meticulous about the label’s organic quality since day one. “We never compromise on Little Zi’s buttery hand feel because that’s always going to be a priority for moms when they’re shopping for babies.” Designed with today’s busy families in mind, Little Zi garments are easy to wash and dry and include several sophisticated, mix-and-match prints, all made from natural dyes and priced under $50 MSRP. “We are very big on nature,” Phun-Corsino says of the label’s aesthetic. “Flowers are a go-to for Little Zi, often in an assortment of rich colors that are just oh-so-beautiful.” The Spring ’20 collection includes a variety of signature hand-knitted tops with jersey fabric bottoms, delicate bubble silhouettes and printed sunhats for little boys and girls. The new collection also features several summery prints like seas creatures, pineapples and lemons. Since it debut, Phun-Corsino says Little Zi hasn’t only challenged her creatively, but the new path as a designer has opened her eyes to what life should truly be about. “Coming from finance, I’ve never been more sure that money is not the ultimate reward,” she says. “Yes, you need it—especially to pay rent in New York—but seeing others happy from doing what makes me happy…now that’s the ultimate reward.” —Emily Beckman What was it like crossing over from analyst to designer? Challenging, and I’m still learning each day. I’d say the biggest adjustment came with learning to be more flexible. There’s going to be things you don’t expect. Retailers will make last-minute order cancellations or want to suddenly change their payment method. In finance, where my background was credit records, if there’s a payment, it’s due at 3 p.m. with no exceptions. But with Little Zi, trust and flexibility are huge factors in attracting and retaining customers. You have to keep communication open and work with your partners on a very human level. Once I adapted to this way of business, it’s been nothing but refreshing. What’s next on Little Zi’s to-do list? We’ll be introducing our first-ever resort collection, which is quite exciting.
The top-selling star print from Little Zi’s Spring ’20 collection.
GIFT, GOURMET AND RETAIL PACKAGING
WE CAN CUSTOM PRINT! The sizing will run larger, from 2 to 10. In preparation, we’ll be going to Bali to meet with the manufacturers that produce a special type of rayon. It’s a particularly thin material that folds beautifully and is often used in jumpsuits for adults. This next step will surely be an energizing adventure for our brand. I can’t wait to start packing!
WHEN A CUSTOMER FEELS A NEW DESIGN AND SMILES, IT’S LIKE WINNING THE LOTTERY TO ME.
What’s been the most popular Spring ’20 style among buyers? Funny story, actually. My mom was designing a print for our spring collection. She draws everything on little pieces of paper. We then send it to our manufacturer in Peru, and they make a digital rendering of it for the production team. For this spring, we created a star pattern she sketched, which was interpreted much more literally than anticipated—imperfect lines and all! We were nervous about the hand-drawn effect on the geometric shape, but it serendipitously brought a lot of character to the piece. Buyers loved it! The star print is now our top-seller for spring.
800-547-9727 • nashvillewraps.com
NW-0919-Earnshaws-quarter-FINAL.indd 1
How about your personal favorite spring design? Oh, I always love our bubbles! I’m particularly keen on our light blue bubble for Spring ’20, which includes a beautiful floral pattern on a jersey fabric with a knit top and crochet detailing on the neckline. It’s a must-see! What do you love most about being a designer? Seeing the customers’ reactions to our latest collection is priceless. When a customer feels a new design and smiles, it’s like winning the lottery to me. I also just love the human element that comes with working in the children’s industry. Getting to personally know your production team, retailers, customers—you realize you’re a part of something that is so much more than just clothing. It’s a community. What advice would you give a young designer trying to break into the industry? I would start by saying how wonderful childrenswear is to be a part of. That said, it’s going to be a lot of work, but don’t ever doubt yourself. Just think of yourself as a vessel, moving forward one day at a time. And never take rejection too personally. Just keep going because that’s the only way you’ll keep growing.
@smockedpolkadot smockedpolkadot.com
9/16/19 3:39 PM
W H A T ’S S E L L I N G
Buttercup Baby Co. Las Vegas, NV
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lthough a children’s store might not be the first thing What about popular shower gifts? We do a lot of business with that comes to mind when thinking of the Las Vegas Strip, Mud Pie and Sophie the Giraffe. We also just started carrying Steiff, Brenda Diaz confirms: “If you build it, they will come.” which make the perfect first teddy bears. Nestled in a shopping center at the south end of casinos’ row, Buttercup Baby Co. offers a wide selection of clothing, gifts and What’s the most innovative baby product you’ve come across gear for infants to five years old. While it took a few seasons to get this year? We just got in a Venice Child bassinet that repositions rolling since opening its doors in 2016, the business has come out easily. If a baby has acid reflux, you can put it at an angle close to the ahead. Diaz credits knowledgeable bed to help ease the symptoms. customer service as the ace up the Baby gear has come a long way! store’s sleeve. From strollers to car seats, employees receive extensive What gear item has been hard training for every product on the to keep in stock? We’re selling floor. “Customers come in knowing lots of double strollers. Parents our staff can walk them through are planning ahead. They’re also the latest gear and accessories,” asking for travel strollers that can Diaz says. “The more confident fold down and fit into an airplane you are in what you’re selling, the because more parents are travelmore confident the consumer will ling with their children. be with their purchase.” Diaz, a former head buyer of What’s the biggest challenge a furniture store for nearly 20 facing your business right now? years, had no plans to try her Direct-to-consumer shopping. luck at childrenswear retailing. People come in and say, ‘I can Having retired on the heels of the just go to the brand’s website, Great Recession, she was looking and they’ll give me 20 percent off for a change of scenery. That’s plus free shipping.’ That’s chalwhen she decided to help out in lenging! But we’re established her brother’s recently opened with brands like Uppababy, who baby store in Las Vegas. Two stopped doing DTC all together years in, however, he decided to and just have a store locator on close shop. But Diaz had fallen their site. Other brands give us The ace up Buttercup Baby’s sleeve? Extensive deeply in love with the market exclusive colors or time frames. staff training for every product on its floor. and rolled the dice on opening Still, it’s tough. We hear people Buttercup Baby Co. say daily that they can find it on Learning from miscues made Amazon. We price match, but at her brother’s store, Diaz offers a highly curated selection of apI also got certified recently as a car seat technician and can help parel, including Mud Pie, Kickee Pants, Kissy Kissy and Mayoral. install the car seats if they buy through us. “We’re steadily growing as people realize we’re not some overpriced corporate entity just because we’re on The Strip,” she says. “We get What do you look for in a brand before adding it to your locals as well as tourists, who stumble in but then come back every merchandise mix? We look at the quality of the stroller, gear or time they’re in town or continue to support us online. That’s the clothing. I prefer to look at it in person first to see how it feels. It’s power of good customer service.” —Aleda Johnson nice when you know the paint won’t be chipping off the next day. When I first opened, I’d purchase through catalogs but oftentimes What are your best-selling clothing labels? We’ve done a lot what arrived wasn’t what I expected. When customers come in, I of business with Little Sleepies bamboo fabric pajamas. They’re a want them to say, ‘this toy has great packaging’ or ‘this is a great smaller company but have a great following because of Instagram. product, and it’s only $1 more than at Toys R Us!’ For special occasion, we do well with Mayoral because it’s a great quality. Kickee Pants is a staple for loungewear and pajamas. We What do you see in Buttercup Baby’s future? In the next five also just started carrying Rylee + Cru, which people have been going years, I would love to open a second location in a different part of crazy over. As for accessories, I’m on the hunt for a good headband town that’s more family-oriented. It’s also my dream to open a store company, and we’re looking to get into shoes soon. in a different state, like California, possibly.
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Q&A
continued from page 11 service. While it may seem like everything is centered on quick delivery, I promise you, the human connection is still very much prevalent in capturing repeat sales. What specifically does “old-fashioned customer service” entail? Success and convenience are more closely linked than ever. With that in mind, I’ve focused on providing our retail partners the assets they need to build our brand with the most ease. That means high-quality photography, detailed background story on the brand, uncompromised product quality, on-time deliveries and clear communication over the phone and email. As you know, the retailers that are surviving are the ones that offer a service. So, as a brand, we want to give them a unique product with a unique story to tell without any added hassle. That’s how we’ll both stay ahead, even in tough times. Take our knit scarves and shawls of fine kid mohair, for example. We’ve been making those exact same designs since 1912! Recently, I lost a supplier for that yarn, and it took me more than three years to find somebody who could spin it in the way we require for our shawls. It’s all part of our heritage, and that’s something we’ll never compromise. PUBLISHER’S STATEMENT
How’s business been this year? We’ve had a really good year. We’re gradually trying to build our business internationally with the States being our second biggest market to the U.K. We’re off to China next week to explore opportunities for growth there, as well. We’ve received a lot of interest, but we want to take things slow and make sure we’re doing all the right things at the right times. Any projections for the rest of the year? We just launched a beautiful cashmere shawl that can be personalized through our website, so we’ll be continuing to closely track the success of that product. Even at a higher price point, customized items are proven to be very popular. I expect we will be adding more personalization to our range in seasons to come. Any plans yet for your 110th anniversary celebration? Nothing specific yet. However, for our centenary we had a wonderful day. We were honored that Sir Paul Smith came. And the local historical society hung a blue plaque on our factory in recognition of our 100-year anniversary. There are quite a number of such plaques hanging on buildings around London, and we’ve been lucky enough to receive one too. In fact, Smith, who hails from just down the road, helped us unveil it. He used to cycle past our factory when he was young to visit his auntie down the road. I’m sure we will make more wonderful memories for our 110th anniversary. We’ve just been too busy
1. Publication Title: Earnshaw’s. 2. Publication No.: 0320-0900. 3. Filing Date 9/25/19. 4. Issue Frequency: 10 times per year. 5. No. of Issues Published Annually: 10. 6. Annual Subscription Price: $48. 7. Complete Mailing Address of Known Office of Publication: One Maynard Drive, Park Ridge, NJ 07656. 8. Complete Mailing Address of the Headquarters or General Business Office of the Publisher: One Maynard Drive, Park Ridge, NJ 07656. Contact Person: Steven Sanborn (201) 573-5541. 9. Full Names and Complete Mailing Addresses of Publisher, Editor, and Managing Editor: Publisher: Caroline Diaco, 214 West 39th Street-Ste 205, New York, NY 10018; Editor: Greg Dutter, 214 West 39th Street-Ste 205, New York, NY 10018; Managing Editor: none. 10. Owner (If owned by a corporation, its name and address must be stated and also immediately thereafter the names and addresses of stockholders owning or holding 1 percent or more of total amount of stock): Dowden Health Media Inc.,3922 Coconut Palm Drive, Tampa, 33619; Carroll V. Dowden, 13 Cameron Road, Saddle River, NJ 07458; Mark Dowden, 1 West Lake Road, Tuxedo Park, NY 10987. Known Bondholders, Mortgages, and Other Security Holders Owning or Holding 1 Percent or More of Total Amount of Bonds, Mortgages, or Other Securities: None. 12. (For Nonprofit Organizations - Does Not Apply) 13. Publication Name: Earnshaw’s. 14. Issue Date for Circulation Data Below: September 2019 15. Extent and Nature of Circulation. Average No. Copies Each Issue During Preceding 12 Months/Actual No. Copies of Single Issue Published Nearest to Filing Date: a. Total No. Copies : 6,639/3,519 b. Legitimate paid and/or requested distribution: (1) Paid/ Requested Outside-County Mail Subscriptions: 3,416/3,214 (2) Paid/Requested In-County Subscriptions: 0/0 (3) Sales through dealers and carriers, street vendors, and counter sales:.0/0 (4) Requested copies distributed by other USPS mail classes:.0/0 c. Total Paid and/or Requested Circulation: 3,416/3,214 d. Nonrequested distribution: (1). Outside county nonrequested copies: 1,937/0 (2) In County nonrequested copies: 0/0 (3) Nonrequested copies distributed through other USPS mail classes: 5/0 (4). Nonrequested copies distributed outside the mail: 1,150/200 e. Total nonrequested distribution: 3,092/200 f. Total Distribution: 6,508/3,414 g. Copies not distributed: 131/105 h. Total: 6,639/3,519 i: Percent Paid and/or Requested Circulation: 52.49%/94.14% 16. This Statement of Ownership will be printed in the Oct 2019 issue of this publication. 17. I certify that all information furnished on this form is true and complete. I understand that anyone who furnishes false or misleading information on this form or who omits material or information requested on the form may be subject to criminal sanctions and/or civil sanctions. Steven Sanborn, Circulation Manager, 9/25/2019
FROM THE ARCHIVES
War and Peace IN 1944, TOWARD the end of World War II, editor Walter T. Hudson addressed Earnshaw’s readers about the impact of world dynamics on supply and demand.
A mix of spring fashion and politically charged ads from Earnshaw’s 1944 archives.
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Cover of Nov/Dec 1944 issue containing editor’s note (below).
Babywear - Birth to 12 Months
Gerber Childrenswear, NY Showroom • 1370 Broadway, 8th Floor, New York, NY 10015