Earnshaws | March 2019 by Wainscot Media

2019 $10.00

FALL FOCUS COUTURE STATEMENTS AT HOME AND ABROAD PITTI BIMBO RUNWAY REPORT A+ ACCESSORIES FOR BACK-TO-SCHOOL HAVEN CHILDREN STAYS GROUNDED WITH BALI ROOTS

GOOD THINGS. SMALL PACKAGES. STREETWEAR JUST GOT A LITTLE CUTER.

sales@ulcapparel.com 212-391-4143

MARCH 2019 CONTENTS

FEATURES Noelle Heffernan Publisher

6 Going Back to Bali Briana Hetzel, founder and designer of Haven Children, makers of Havengirl, Wyldson and Joyous & Free, on going the extra mile to protect what matters most: her company’s treasured island roots. By Emily Beckman

Emily Beckman Editor Nancy Campbell Trevett McCandliss Creative Directors EDITORIAL Aleda Johnson Assistant Editor

12 Class Act Bolster back-to-school sales with A+ accessories. By Emily Beckman

Mariah Walker Contributing Fashion Editor ADVERTISING Jennifer Craig Special Accounts Manager

14 The Pitti Things Forecasting what’s hot for the coming cold season from the runways of Pitti Immagine Bimbo in Florence, Italy. By Emily Beckman

PRODUCTION Laurie Guptill Production Manager Mike Hoff Webmaster

20 European Union Bold colors, mixed materials and a plethora of prints sail across the pond for fall. By Mariah Walker

Bruce Sprague Circulation Director CORPORATE Xen Zapis Founder 1926-2018 Lee Zapis, CEO Rich Bongorno, CFO Debbie Grim, Controller

DEPA RTM EN TS

Caroline Diaco President/Group Publisher

4 Scene & Heard

Greg Dutter Editorial Director

10 A Note to My Younger Self 16 Behind the Seams

9Threads 26202 Detroit Road, #300 Westlake, OH 44145 Tel: (440) 871-1300

18 Trend Watch 19 Designer Chat 34 What’s Selling

CONTACT INFO

36 Final Cut PAGE

On cover: Emma wears metallic jacket by Raspberry Plum, scarf by Manuela and pants by You and Me. Photography by Zoe Adlersberg/See Management; styling by Mariah Walker/Art Department NY; hair and makeup by Clelia Bergonzoli/Utopia NYC using Oribe Hair Care and Milk Makeup; styling assistance by May White.

20 This page: Sidney wears scarf by Piupiuchick as headband, plaid pants by Barn of Monkeys and Morley floral dress underneath knit sweater by Kalinka.

Sales/Editorial Offices 214 W. 39th St., Suite 205 New York, NY 10018 Tel: (646) 278-1550 Fax: (646) 278-1553 advertising@9threads.com editorialrequests@ 9threads.com Circulation Office 26202 Detroit Road, #300 Westlake, OH 44145 Tel: (440) 871-1300 circulation@9threads.com

EARNSHAW’S INFANTS, GIRLS AND BOYS WEAR REVIEW ISSN 0161-2786 (USPS-320-090) The business and fashion magazine of the childrenswear industry is published 10x a year by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, 214 West 39th Street, Suite 205 New York, NY 10018. The publishers of this magazine do not assume responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage is paid in New York, N.Y. and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: U.S. $48; Rates outside U.S. available upon request. Single price copy, $5. Copyright 2011 by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC. Postmaster: Send address changes to Earnshaw’s Infants, Girls and Boys Wear Review, P.O. Box 8548, Lowell, MA 01853-8548. Publisher is not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts or photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender. Symphony Publishing NY, LLC will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. No portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. Printed in USA.

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Children’s Fashion and Footwear – 0 to 16 years ATLANTA • CHICAGO • DALLAS • LOS ANGELES • NEW YORK • MONTREAL • TORONTO • VANCOUVER

MAYORAL USA INC. Miami FL T 305.779.4305 mayoral.usa@mayoral.com

SC E N E & H E A R D

Clockwise from left: Spellman fishing on the family’s boat; Attending a wedding with her family in Philadelphia last year; Dancing at a close friend’s wedding in the summer of 2014; Posing with her business partner Sarina Cotton at Children’s Club in New York.

Remembering Kourageous Kids Co-founder Kim Spellman K I M S P E L L M A N, C O - FO U N D E R of Kourageous Kids showroom and tween line Flowers by Zoe, passed away last month, after a recurring battle with cancer. She was 57. A graduate of the Fashion Institute of Technology, Spellman met her close friend and business partner, Sarina Cotton, during college and they remained inseparable for 35 years. “We had a very rare friendship that was closer to sisters,” Cotton says. “It was always SarinaandKim—one word.” In 1982, the duo established the Kourageous Kids showroom in New York, followed by the introduction of their own girls’ sportswear line, Flowers by Zoe, in 1986. The label has been

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recognized by the industry for design excellence over the years, winning four Earnie Awards, and is a staple for many retailers, who praised Spellman’s “best friend approach” to business. “Kim was upfront, fair and told it like it was,” says Susan Silverstein of Marcia’s Attic. “She did all of that and still made you feel like she was your BFF.” The New Jersey retailer with stores in Englewood and Closter recalls her comical introduction to Spellman’s warm personality. “When I first met Kim, we discovered that we both lived in New City and had girls the same age,” she says, noting that she accidentally scribbled Spellman’s name and address in the “ship to” box of her Flowers by Zoe order.

“Months later, Kim came home and found my entire store delivery on her front porch—we had a good laugh about that!” Spellman was known for her contagious laugh and bright smile. “I’m one of the lucky ones who got to see that ‘Kim smile’ daily,” says Louise Connor of The Showroom, a former neighbor of Kourageous Kids. “She and I exchanged many a snarky political comment and hard laugh about the craziness of our business.” After watching Kim carrying boxes to Kourageous Kids’ new space a floor above hers in late 2018, Connor texted Spellman to say she would miss being neighbors. Spellman texted back, “I’ll just be upstairs!” to which Connor replied, “It won’t be the same.” The industry won’t be quite the same without Spellman either. “There are no words to describe the magnitude of losing Kim,” says Amy Hoffman, co-owner of Nancy Markert and Amy Hoffman showroom, who shared a space with Kourageous Kids briefly. “Her banter with Sarina was hysterical—yelling like sisters one minute and laughing the next,” Hoffman says. “She was a leader who didn’t wait for others to take charge—one of our top ‘spokesmen’ among the reps.” Alsina Perry, an employee of Kourageous Kids for more than six years, started working for Spellman and Cotton because she admired their work ethic, industry knowledge and fun-loving nature. “Kim was able to balance a flourishing business and a strong family-driven lifestyle,” Perry says. Spellman’s family—children Jessie (29) and Molly (26) and husband Todd—loved going out on their boat and fishing for hours. She was also an avid foodie and wine lover, while managing to stay fit through her other passion, spin class. “Kim was a great problem solver as well as a team player,” Cotton says, adding that her business partner will forever hold a place in her heart. “She was truly an amazing woman with an infectious smile that will be deeply missed by our industry and many outside of it.” —Emily Beckman

K i d ’s H u b L a s Ve g a s R e c e i v e s Wa r m We l c o m e One of the

THE MAJORITY OF buyers and exhibitors who many trend spaces attended last month’s launch of Kid’s Hub Las at Kid’s Hub Las Vegas. Vegas, the newest addition to Playtime trade shows’ portfolio, have shared overwhelmingly positive feedback. Held on the mezzanine level of Planet Hollywood, attendees were pleasantly surprised by the atmosphere that emerged from the show. “It really felt like they cared about us buyers,”

says Courtney Miller of P. Cottontail & Co. in Half Moon Bay, CA. “From the free lunches and cocktail party to the cozy atmosphere, it was a very warm experience—very personalized to the children’s industry.” While Playtime has had a strong presence in the United States for nearly a decade with its New York edition, Playtime CEO Sebastien de Hutton still saw room for growth. “The show performs very well in its sector but doesn’t cover the entirety of U.S. buyers’ needs,” de Hutton says, noting that Kid’s Hub’s was introduced as a quality alternative for West Coast buyers. “And while Las Vegas has established itself as one of the leading business destinations in the country, until now the city has not offered any trade shows entirely dedicated to kids’ fashion and lifestyle.” Offering a well-balanced selection of approximately 50 brands, Kid’s Hub hosted best-sellers like Kissy Kissy, Little Me, Isobella & Chloe and Rylee + Cru, as well as key players from accessories like Copper Pearl, Mina Baie and Nookums Paci-Plushies. “I’m hoping more vendors will hop on for August,” says Los Angeles showroom owner Teresa Stephen of Teresa’s Room. Stephen was particularly impressed with the pre-show marketing. “Playtime took full advantage of all the tools—email, phone, print ads, social media, you name it,” she says, adding that she also enjoyed the good value of the booths’ consistent aesthetic. “The wood hard walls, racks and tables gave an overall clean, contemporary look to the whole show,” she says. “I had a booth and so did three of my vendors, and we all agree that set up and take down was quite easy.” While the Playtime team is very pleased with how the new show has been received so far, de Hutton says there is much more to come. “It is just the first edition,” he says, “Which means there’s are still dozens of things to improve!” The venue is still being finalized, however de Hutton confirms that Kid’s Hub will be back this August. —E.B.

Hatley Acquires Books to Bed BOOKS TO BED, known for featuring children’s favorite bedtime stories on its pajamas, has been snapped up by Hatley. With plans to operate separately, Hatley will manage logistics and fulfillment for the 14-year-old Books to Bed to maintain its unique identity. “Books to Bed has been a labor of love, but it’s time to pass the torch,” says founder Carol Friedman. “I know Hatley will do a great job, and I’m looking forward to working with them.” Chris Oldland, CEO of Hatley and gift line Little Blue House, looks forward to collaborating with Friedman. “Bedtime is a special time for kids and parents, and we love the idea of wearable stories,” he says. “Friedman has a talent for selecting children’s titles with great supporting art that translates into pajamas.” Books to Bed has grown immensely since its launch in 2005, featuring classic characters such as Eloise, Madeline and Angelina Ballerina as well as

new favorites from bestsellers like Uni the Unicorn and Goodnight, Goodnight Construction Site. The first Books to Bed collection under Hatley will be released for Fall ’19, featuring five new prints on long-sleeve pajamas made of 100 percent GOTScertified organic cotton. Available in boys’ and girls’ sizes 2 to 12, prints will be translated from the books Lilly’s Purple Plastic Purse, Eloise at The Plaza, There Was an Old Dragon Who Swallowed a Knight, The Epic Adventures of Huggie & Stick and How To Catch an Elf. Pajama sets including the coordinating storybook wholesale for $23.75 and $17 without the book. Hatley will also introduce the fall collection of Books to Bed into the UK, Canada and Australia markets. “Everything we have done has always been about letting kids be kids, about stirring their imagination and sense of adventure,” Oldland says. “We welcome this new opportunity to create something different that is just so amazing.” —Aleda Johnson

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Q&A Going Back to Bali Briana Hetzel, founder and designer of Haven Children, makers of Havengirl, Wyldson and Joyous & Free, on going the extra mile to protect what matters most: her company ’s treasured island roots. BY EMILY BECKMAN

BRIANA HETZEL HAS spent her summers in Bali since she was four years old. Unlike the touristy location it is today, during her childhood the Indonesian island was virtually a hidden tropical paradise. “There weren’t many paved roads, no air conditioning and the food was super strange,” Hetzel says, noting she rarely met other Americans, unless they were surfers. “It was this magical island, and my family fell in love with it.” It wasn’t long into this love affair that Hetzel’s parents, along with her aunts, began importing clothing from Bali to their hometown of La Jolla, CA, what was then also a quaint and quirky beach community. The synergy between the two paradises clicked as the startup steadily grew and eventually evolved into a wholesale women’s resort line. The beauty of Bali served as the inspiration—warm colors, artisan embellishments and breezy styling. “My childhood evolved into countless trade shows, showroom appointments, factory tours and trips to hole-in-the-wall fabric stores,” Hetzel says. But she never anticipated a career in fashion, that is until a sudden twist of fate. A psychology

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major at the University of California Santa Barbara, Hetzel planned on becoming a teacher/world traveler until she became pregnant her senior year. “The unexpected pregnancy shaped the direction of my life and my career,” Hetzel says, noting her supportive family enabled the her to graduate college by the time her daughter, Haven, was two. After graduation, however, Hetzel put a teaching career on hold and pondered what she might do next. She took her daughter to Bali to visit family and friends at the manufacturing facility. During the visit, Hetzel experimented, designing a few outfits for Haven. A spark was lit in her heart. “I was just so inspired and motivated by my daughter,” Hetzel says. “My little surprise Haven ended up being the most incredible gift—inspiring me to launch a clothing business, which is still inspiring me nearly 20 years later.” The aptly named Havengirl debuted with a resort collection in 2002.

MARCH 27- 30 JUNE 19 - 25

THE NATION'S LEADING MARKET FOR TOTS, TEENS, AND IN BETWEENS

SHOES: CHOOZE | DRESS & PANTS: ART & EDEN | HEADBAND: BARI LYNN

ALL APPAREL: THE KLEIN GROUP (WTC 8280 & 8284) | ZIP-UP JACKET: ART & EDEN

KIDSWORLD MARKET

Q&A To this day, the brand, along with the recent offshoots, Wyldson (2016), a boys’ collection, and the tween brand, Joyous & Free (2017), have been manufactured in Bali. Despite rising cost pressures and more affordable sourcing alternative, Hetzel has held firm on the company’s deep Bali roots. In addition to the quality and uniqueness of the designs, she cites a synergy between mothers—the ones working in the factory supporting their families and those purchasing the wares in the States—as too important to just discard. Specifically, the fair wages Haven Children offers enables its factory workers to better support their families. That’s an aside worth mentioning at the point of sale. So is the fact that all SMALL TAL Haven Children fabrics come from eco-friendly suppliers with state-of-the-art dying facilities that ensure minimal What are you reading? With four kids, podcasts are all I water waste. “It’s our wholehave time for these days. Crime some story that really helps Junkie is one of my favorites. sell customers,” Hetzel says. “We remind retailers that What are you watching? I just it is moms like us who are binged Barry on HBO. making these clothes.” Havengirl started with What are you listening to? My one sales rep in Dallas, the kids range ages 4 to 20, so I Martha Foster Group. After hear it all! From Ariana Grande great feedback at its debut to Talking Heads. My little ones also love reggae, so that’s in show, Hetzel asked Sylvia rotation, too. Gill in Los Angeles and Janet Hunter Hawkins in Atlanta What do you crave? Anything to join the family. All three with chocolate! are Havengirl reps to this day. Hetzel has overseen a tightknit corporate culture where employees are considered family. This isn’t about just pumping out the next season’s product. It’s about creating clothing for children with a sense of purpose and passion. The belief that commitment will connect with retailers and consumers on a higher level. And it’s working, especially of late with the two brand extensions as well as 20 percent growth overall over the last two years. Hetzel credits part of the recent success to two management team hires: Jennifer Myers and Robin Jones. The duo has streamlined operations and created brand awareness, while allowing Hetzel to focus more on the design process. Haven Children has upped its game across the board, which is the only way to survive amid these challenging times. “As in any business, there’s always room to improve,” Hetzel says, citing the downward pressure on price as being particularly challenging to the business model. “It’s a shame that prices are being driven down by chains, hurting those of us who are trying so hard to conduct business in a responsible way,” she says. “We’ve had to make significant adjustments to our overhead cost structure in order to maintain our Bali roots.” Despite the difficulties, Hetzel forecasts continued growth for Haven Children in the years ahead. The company’s new website and e-commerce platform launched last year, which should provide a sales

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lift. Hetzel also hints at another brand possibly in the works. “We’ve had such an incredible reaction to our tween line that we are playing with the idea of ‘Mommy and Me,’” Hetzel says. “Who knows? Maybe next time you interview us we we’ll have a women’s division, too!” In the meantime, Hetzel is committed to giving back. Haven Children recently partnered with Delivering Good, a nonprofit organization that provides new merchandise to families impacted by poverty and tragedy. Furthermore, she remains as committed as ever to her made-in-Bali roots. It’s what separates Haven Children apart from the competition. It’s also a labor of love. “For Haven Children to remain successful, it’s simply a matter K of retelling our story over and over,” Hetzel says. “We have to work twice as hard to educate every customer about who we Who is your most coveted dinner guest? Michelle Obama. are, what they’re buying and why it’s so special, but that’s What is your motto? Trust the uniworth it to us every time.” verse.

Besides deep family connections, what makes Bali an ideal place for manufacturing Haven Children’s What talent would you like to brands? have? I wish I could tidy up like When I started, no one was Marie Kondo. able to do embellishments What may people be surprised to like I could in Bali. China know about you? After I had my wasn’t a major player yet, last two babies at home, I became so I had this huge advantage a trained doula of being able to do all these incredible artisan embellishments that were difficult to find—hand-beading, sequins, embroidery, you name it. Obviously, that has changed in the last five years, but our ethically sound practices continue to be a major draw. What sound do you love? Silence—an empty house is bliss.

Have you ever considered moving at least some manufacturing out of Bali? I’ve thought about it. It’s been a huge challenge to hold our ground with ‘fast fashion’ taking over the market. Could I hop on a plane and go do everything in China? Sure, but I just couldn’t sit with that. We just have to keep telling our unique story, and why the made-in-Bali factor is worth the little extra investment. Social media has helped give us the opportunity to speak directly with consumers. It’s a great tool to showcase not only our latest collections, but about who we are as a company. Beyond that, it’s about creating strong relationships with our retail partners who play a critical role in spreading our message. How do you build these strong relationships? It starts with having a strong connection with reps. For example, if a retailer has a special request or if they need to shift a delivery date, the reps know I trust them to make that decision and work directly with their customers to find the optimal solution. It’s also helpful

being a small team so when customers call they will likely speak with me, Robin or Jennifer. They don’t have to go through a lot of layers. What were some of the biggest challenges you faced in getting the business off the ground? Actually, it all felt pretty effortless in the beginning. Not to say there weren’t challenges, but I feel like those have come with growth. It was a major advantage having my family in the business since I was a child. They worked out lots of the growing pains most small businesses go through. But I still made my fair share of mistakes. I remember in our first season Havengirl’s sizing was a little funky. My daughter was three, and I tried to grade up to a 14 using a women’s patternmaker. Everything ran big—oops!

is driven by so many embellishments. It’s incredibly time-consuming to go from the concept to designing the fabric to coming up with the treatment to selecting the silhouettes. For Joyous & Free, the aesthetic is very clean and revolves more around trend-driven silhouettes and minimalistic prints. Many of our bestsellers are solids, and a solid tee is way easier to design than a unicorn-embellished tee with all the bells and whistles.

...RETAILERS WON’T EVEN BUY THE SAME BRAND FOR TWEENS THAT ALSO CATERS TO SIZES 2-6X.

What was the impetus behind the launch of Joyous & Free last year? I felt a shift in the market two or three years ago where, all of a sudden, we saw a real distinction between sizes 2-7 and 8-16. It’s always been there, but now retailers won’t even buy the same brand for tweens that also caters to sizes 2-6X. It must be a totally different label. Any challenges making the leap into tween designs? Joyous & Free is actually way easier to design than Havengirl! Havengirl

Where do you get most of your inspiration for design? My design process is layered. I always start with sales reports to see what’s working and what isn’t. For Havengirl, there are some key themes like mermaids and unicorns that are timeless for little girls. I adjust colors based on trend reports or what I’m seeing in the market. For example, unicorns became a key trend two or three years ago and I don’t see them going anywhere. I just try to reinvent them each season with a new embellishment or colorway. What about Joyous & Free? I start with bodies, which typically follow women’s trends. I look for key silhouettes in high-fashion boutiques. For example, rompers have been huge in women’s and turns out they were our bestseller as >33

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A N O T E T O M Y YOU N G E R S E L F

It’s the Little Things GEMMA BROEKHUIS, FOUNDER OF MILESTONE, THE GIFT AND CARD COMPANY, ON THE VALUE OF SLOWING DOWN TO APPRECIATE SMALL MOMENTS THAT MAKE UP LIFE’S GRAND JOURNEY. DEAR GEMMA, The year is 2010. You’re living in Amsterdam with your husband, and you’re about to become first-time parents to a little boy you’ll name Mikkel. You don’t know it yet, but you’ll have two more boys and be a family of five just three years from now. The journey into motherhood introduces you to amazing highs and hectic lows—everyday life feels multiplied by 10,000! You have no idea what you’re doing one moment to the next. But that’s the life of a parent. Be patient, you’ll become a master of multitasking, and it’ll eventually all work out. To make life more challenging, however, you’re still grieving the loss of your mother a few months prior. You miss her dearly, and you’re devastated she’s not there when you become a mother. It’ll take a few years—yes, a few years—for missing her to become (somewhat) tolerable. I know you’re always rushing on to the next task and family moment, but some things shouldn’t be fast-forwarded—a life lesson that will take you time to learn. Being pregnant with your first son is the reason you decide to leave the advertising company you co-founded. You felt you’ve been moving in the wrong direction career-wise for a while now, and with Mikkel on his way, you listen to your gut and get off this track while you still can. It’s unsettling at first. With no immediate job or plan you don’t really enjoy your newfound freedom, rather you get restless and even feel lost at times. But being a fulltime mother opens you up to new ideas, like the one that will occur in January 2011. Mikkel is on his playmat as you prepare him for a bath. Suddenly, he rolls over—all by himself! It’s a major life milestone! (Remember the last word of that sentence.) You’re giddy with pride and realize this is a moment you want to remember—forever. You grab a notecard and write, ‘I just rolled over for the first time. —Jan. 12, 2011’ and place it next to Mikkel. You snap a photo, immediately cherishing its value. And then you think, ‘Maybe other parents would appreciate this, too.’

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It’s your epiphany for Milestone. You ponder a number of fancy gizmos to help parents cherish childhood memories and milestones, but simplicity prevails: you create a set of 30 pretty cards in a tidy box. Each card is labeled with a special moment of a baby’s first year. You discover a wonderful artist based in Australia, Beci Orpin, who creates the artwork. It takes a little over a year to launch the first sets—a startup all self-financed. “You could buy a car instead,” says your first printer. (Don’t fret, you’ll outgrow that printer a few months later.) Over the ensuing few years, your family grows (Frey and Rover are born) alongside your business. Milestone expands rapidly to include more products and distribution in more countries. Life is hectic and fast-paced. As a mother of three young children, which means operating in survival mode 90 percent of the time, it prepares you for anything the business world throws at you. At times, however, family and business snowball and you are operating at breakneck speed, 24-7. You’ll be processing orders in bed with your second son next to you, who was born just nine hours earlier! You’re always rushing. Rushing to get home, rushing to take care of the kids, rushing to squeeze in a Pilates lesson, rushing to find new ways to grow your business…Just because you can keep pace with it all, doesn’t mean you always should. Please learn to slow down and smell the proverbial roses now and then. Just like the company you created from scratch, appreciate special moments for just how amazing they are. Slow down when you’re cooking, putting the kids to bed, out with just your husband, travelling to trade shows and creating new products. Remember to appreciate and enjoy it all. You’ve always thought being fast is a strength, but you’ll discover it’s not. Instead of saving time, it’s costing you what raced past. My greatest piece of advice, should you choose to accept it, is to live in the present. Stand still once in a while, take a deep breath and ground yourself in the here and now. It’ll make a profound and rewarding difference.

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ACCESSORIES PREVIEW FALL â&#x20AC;&#x2122;19

Class Act

LOOK, MA ! N O HA N D S!

A continuation of the hands-free accessories craze, backpacks, cross-body purses and fanny packs (often styled over the shoulder) look to continue their reign as top sellers. Take it a step further this fall by offering patches and pins for customizing any silhouette.

BOLSTER BACK - TO SCHOOL SALES WITH A+ ADD - ONS. BY EMILY BECKMAN

Tuc Tuc

Twelve Little

Abel & Lula

Easy Peasy

IN THE HOOD

Halo Luxe

Carbon Soldier

Hoot hats are topping off looks in soft faux furs to edgy leathers.

Ella & Monster

H A IR P L AY

Headbands, snap clips, barrettes and bobby pins elevate back-to-school hairstyles effortlessly in countless colors and designs. Chunky glitter, animal patterns, liberty prints and colorful pompoms are just a few popular accents to the perfect twist, braid or bun.

SPA PAC KAGE

Serendipity Organics

All-natural, kid-friendly nail polish, bath bombs, face masks and hair products let little ones join Mom for mini-me pamper parties.

Raspberry Plum Nailmatic

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Unlabel

H O S I E RY HAU L

Doused in color, patterned tights, embellished knee-highs and funky printed ankle socks come out to play on days too chilly for bare legs.

CaffĂ¨ dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Orzo

Indee

Kids on the Moon

Fun Socks

R U MOR HA S K NIT

Velveteen

www.kidsonthemoon.com

Boboli

Fur accents, oversized pompoms and woven glitter modernize Nordic accessories including knit headbands, chunky scarves and cozy beanies.

contact: lepassageshowroom@gmail.com

EUROPEAN TREND REPORT FALL ’19

The Pitti Things FORECASTING WHAT’S HOT FOR THE COMING COLD SEASON FROM THE RUNWAYS OF PITTI IMMAGINE BIMBO IN FLORENCE, ITALY. BY EMILY BECKMAN

Carbon Soldier

Péro

PLAID ROMANCE

Mad for all plaids. Nineties grunge, traditional Scottish tartans and streetwise bright color combos cross paths this fall in small accents and allover statements.

Piccola Ludo

Il Gufo

PADDED VALUE

TEDDY-TOWEAR

More ’90s nostalgia as parkas, puffers and padded quilted jackets prove insulated bulk is back big time.

Faux fur or shearling, teddy coats up the cute, cozy, chic quotient.

L’Orsobruno

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Amaya

ST RA DA ST Y L E CONSTRUCTION SITES

The streets of Florence serve as runways of the fashion show kind as pintsized sartorialists strut their stuff.

Clever folds and bold graphic silhouettes stand tall in the special occasion category.

Moque

Alitsa

Raspberry Plum

Stefania Le Mu

GAME ON!

Tracksuits and hoodies with varsity stripes, large logos and zipper details go glam with splashes of feminine details like glitter, lace and embroidery.

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BEHIND THE SEAMS

Lucky Charms Chatons de Bonbons introduces sweet, sophisticated accessories.

Windows to the Soles Fields Footwear introduces a clear construction for a healthy fit. WITH A COMBINED understanding of biomechanics, child development and preventative medicine, New York-based couple Laura Santos, a board-certified pediatrician, and Jonathan Schofield, a certified podiatrist, have introduced Fields Footwear, a fit-focused line of lightweight shoes for kids. Designed for crawling, cruising and walking, each style features a clear sole that allows parents to see exactly where their child’s foot is located within the shoe. “Fields proudly protects children from the effects of ill-fitted footwear,” Santos says. “If a child loves a pair of sparkly gold shoes, she’s never going to say when it’s too tight on her feet. So we came up with a solution to avoid damage to delicate cartilage.” Roughly spanning sizes newborn to 10, Fields Footwear doesn’t abide by standard sizing. Instead, the shoes are listed in millimeters. “Sizes are never the same between brands, so it’s best for parents to measure their child’s foot to find the perfect size,” Santos says, adding the collection, made in Spain, features soft leathers and a thermoplasticized rubber (TPR) sole—the same nontoxic material in teethers. “Kids put everything in their mouth, so we only use the safest materials,” Santos says. As for styling, the designs are primarily inspired by shoes Santos and Schofield wore growing up in Europe. The Fall ’19 collection features several contemporary twists on traditional shoes, including T-straps, Mary Janes and chukka boots in metallic and suede finishes with bright pops of color. Suggested retail is $54.95 for the Baby Steps line and $64.95 for the Next Steps collection. “Buyers are very impressed with the construction,” Santos says, following the brand’s debut at Playtime New York last month. (The company launched direct-to-consumer online in November 2017.) “I wish I could capture the exact moment when buyers saw our daughter’s foot through the sole of her shoes,” she adds. “So many jaws dropped!” Fields Footwear gives retailers an opportunity to educate consumers on the importance of healthy foot development for children at the point of sale—and Santos believes that sets the brand apart. “It’s nice knowing we can make a difference one new account at a time,” Santos says. “We couldn’t be more proud to provide fellow parents with something we truly believe is good for their children.” —Aleda Johnson

E A R N S H AW S .C O M

NATASHA GOELLNER, A full-time pastry chef with a flair for fashion, started creating child-friendly versions of designer charm necklaces after her daughter lost one too many of her expensive pieces. “I’m drawn to Tarina Tarantino jewelry and adult Hello Kitty—anything super cute,” Goellner says, noting that her daughter especially loved her Kate Spade necklace with donut and bunny charms on it. “I knew I could replicate this idea in an affordable fashion for kids that I wouldn’t have to worry if it was lost.” Chatons de Bonbons, Goellner’s line of sweet accessories, spans charm necklaces and bracelets (MSRP $12-$34) to a colorful assortment of rings ($6). The collection, debuting last September, is heavily influenced by Goellner’s love of pastries and cats. Mindful of not appearing “too kiddie,” Goellner adds pink bows and pompoms hanging from strands of pearl necklaces and delicate golden chains adorned with pastel candies, fluffy felines and slices of cake. Most recently, Goellner dove deeper into its popular confections by launching Feather the Kitten’s Passport Collection. Based on her own fat cat who loved to eat, Feather, the brand’s mascot, travels the world through each collection in search of treats. Customers can purchase a passport and follow Feather to new destinations, collecting stickers that look like stamps. So far collections have focused on France, showcasing lots of macaroons and cookies, and Lake Lugano in Switzerland, featuring swans and alpine strawberries. At Children’s Club in January, Goellner reports buyers loved the line for its adorable designs at an affordable price. However, they had one suggestion. “People were very specific about no yellow in their orders,” she says, adding that she tested why on her daughter after the show. “We put groups of accessories in front of her, and she always picked the yellow version last, so you won’t be seeing much of that color anymore!” Chatons de Bonbons’ customers will be seeing more customized charms as special makeups. “We’re always listening to what our customer wants,” Goellner says. “That’s how you build the sweetest products—through even sweeter relationships.” —A. J.

SPECIAL D ELIV E RY !

The Baby Box Earnshawâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s is shipping a beautifully curated parcel to the doorstep of 250 key buyers in May. Each package will include samples and information from select infant/toddler brands. Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t miss this unique and exclusive opportunity! Limited space available! Contact Publisher Noelle.Heffernan@9Threads.com for details.

TREND WATCH Moccis slipper socks

Up and Away jacket Anarkid top

Autumn Cashmere Baby Noomie outfit

Me Too shirt

Villervalla one-piece

Vroom, Vroom! MOTORSPORT-INSPIRED ACCENTS race into childrenswear for Fall ’19. Get in gear with sporty stripes, black-and-white checks and hot race car motifs. —Emily Beckman

Elegant Baby bath toys

Imps & Elfs jumpsuit

E A R N S H AW S .C O M

DESIGNER CHAT

ALABAMA-BASED MOTHER of two sons Brittany Scroggins became frustrated with the narrow selection of baby and toddler boys’ fashion on the market. And with good reason: “I also have two nephews, and all of my cousins have boys,” Scroggins says, bringing the family total to 12 boys under the age of seven. “Unless you are into athleisure, we all found it very limiting in what’s available.” Applying her background in merchandising and product design, Scroggins decided to fulfill her family’s needs as well as others with the launch of Jack Davis Apparel in 2017. Named after her grandfathers, the fresh take on traditional boys’ wear (newborn to 4T) has quickly turned heads in the conservative Southern market with its selection of versatile and colorful silhouettes all made in the U.S. “We make all our garments easy to mix and match with other pieces in a child’s wardrobe,” Scroggins says. “Parents want versatility and comfort over a statement piece that their kid only wears once or twice.” Before any item becomes Jack Davis collection worthy it must pass an important weartest and receive approval by Scroggins’ two boys. “The oldest is a little big to wear the line, but he’s still very vocal about what he likes,” she says, adding that her youngest sports the brand nearly every day. The designer antic-

ipates plaids in neutral shades—particularly pops of rust—to be a strong trend for Fall ’19, in addition to French terry and soft earth tones in rompers, one-pieces and interchangeable separates. Scroggins has already begun introducing girls’ pieces and unisex styles after receiving positive feedback about the boys’ collection. The brand has also received several collaboration requests on social media. “I’ve gotten a ton of direct messages from others wanting to work with us, as well as compliments from moms who appreciate all our new options,” Scroggins says. “It certainly reassures me that I’m going in the right direction.” —Aleda Johnson How’s business? It’s our first year, so naturally we’ve had our fair share of challenges. But each has been a lesson learned. It’s a process of taking note, moving on and tweaking as we go. But I can’t complain with all the tremendous exposure we’ve received so quickly. We’ve had to work very hard to keep up with the rapid growth! How’d you get the word out so fast? Right out of the gate, social media has been our main source of exposure. The online community for parents, photographers and bloggers is enor-

mous, and Instagram has been our strongest platform. The potential reach is remarkable. Who is your core customer? The beauty of our brand is that it really fits any lifestyle. We get the busy mom who needs an outfit to throw on her moving toddler to the city dad trying to keep his little guy hip. Our parents also value the soft quality of our designs and appreciate the commitment to manufacture in America. What do you love most about being a designer? Seeing my ideas come to life for the first time never gets old. It’s a long process from when I get this great idea in my mind and have to tweak it or regroup all together, yet there’s nothing better than seeing someone wearing your designs at the end of it all. It’s a ‘pinch me’ moment. What is your favorite design so far? I really love our rompers. It doesn’t get better than a little baby in an adorable one-piece! Where do envision Jack Davis in five years? We are currently available in the Southeast and Northeast. We haven’t even hit the West Coast yet. I’d love to see our product found in stores in every state nationwide in the next five years. That would be a dream come true.

E A R N S H AW S .C O M

Emma wears blue corduroy jacket by Kids on the Moon, dusty pink jacket by Yellow Pelota, linen dress by The New Society and Easy Peasy heart necklace. Opposite: Emma wears Mayoral plaid wrap coat, Infantium Victoria with turtleneck and patterned pants and Young Soles boots.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY ZOE ADLERSBERG

BOLD

COLORS,

MIXED MATERIALS & A PLETHORA

OF PRINTS

SAIL ACROSS

THE POND FOR FALL.

STYLING BY MARIAH WALKER

Rein wears Carlijnq jacket, Leoca shirt, leopard joggers by Soft Gallery, JRP Socks graphic socks and Bensimon yellow sneakers. Opposite: Rein wears two white dresses and belt used as collar by Little Creative Factory.

Zander wears Dal Lago long coat, We Love Shapes sweater, culottes by Nadadelazos and Old Soles hi-top sneakers. Opposite: Zander wears Manuela knit hat, Riders fleece pullover and pants by The New Society.

James wears striped scarf by Kalinka, sweatshirt by Nadadelazos, Louis Louise bomber jacket and his own glasses. Opposite: James wears Hauptli Haus Kids neck scarf, bear sweater by EFVVA, Louis Louise striped sweater, red pants by Nukutavake and his own glasses.

Harper wears striped sweater by Omibia, Hello Simone overalls and coat by Tarantela. Opposite: Harper wears Mayoral beret and Venera Arapu dress.

Sidney wears yellow coat by Derhy Kids, blue sweater by Essence, Sproet & Sprout collar, skirt by Loredana, We Love Colors tights and her own glasses. Opposite: Sidney wears striped dress by Leoca, sweater by Anarkid, Sproet & Sprout waist belt and her own glasses. Photography by Zoe Adlersberg/See Management; styling by Mariah Walker, Art Department, NY; hair and makeup by Clelia Bergonzoli/Utopia NYC using Oribe Hair Care and Milk Makeup; styling assistance by May White.

S PO NS O RED

CON TEN T

BEBA BEAN

Exhibitor Spotlight See these shining stars at next month’s JPMA Show.

Exhibiting at JPMA for the first time, Beba Bean (known for its original “Pee-pee Teepee”) will be showing an expanded collection of crochet knit sweaters, booties, hats and toys. The brand recently added a muslin line of rompers and blankets made of soft Turkish cotton, and for Fall ’19, new sweater moccasins will be added to the mix. “We pride ourselves on our customer service,” says Lisa Malcic, owner. “Beba Bean pairs quality and attention to detail for the perfect partnership.” JPMA Booth #2103 BebaBean.com info@BebaBean.com

BOOGINHEAD

BUMKINS

Whether its dropped pacifiers, tossed cups, teething pain or travel struggles, Booginhead has the solution. Providing answers in a wide range of infant and toddler products, all designs are created in-house for innovative offerings at competitive price points. “We have a number of new patterns inspired by fashion trends and causes that are meaningful to us—like our new Pride collection with bold rainbow designs inspired by love,” says Jacky Bosworth, marketing manager. Set to debut at the show are new PaciPals and teether blankets as well as fresh patterns of the brand’s best-selling PaciGrip two-packs and bandana bibs.

Built upon the success of its awardwinning SuperBib, Bumkins’ product line includes a variety of baby and toddler bibs, kids’ smocks and ecofriendly reusable bags. “Our signature fabric has unique waterproofing embedded into the fibers for a softer and more durable coating,” says MaryAnn Ortiz-Lieb, company spokesperson. “We continue to promote the importance of sustainability with our small and large snack bags as a great alternative to plastic.” Targeting ages newborn to 7 years, the company recently branched out to silicone teething products as well as Chewtensils, a line of silicone dishware and utensils. All products feature fun, colorful prints of Bumkins’ own designs, as well as character licenses like Disney, DC Comics and Nintendo. Expect the Fall ’19 collection to include adorable themes like unicorns, rainbows, dinosaurs, llamas and cacti on bibs to bags.

JPMA Booth #831 Booginhead.com info@Booginhead.com

JPMA Booth #203 Bumkins.com Sales@Bumkins.com

Q&A continued from page 9 well. I just make sure the bodies are age-appropriate. What are your anticipated key trends for Fall ’19? We always do huge holiday tee business with Havengirl. We cover all the major retail holidays—Christmas, Chanukah, Thanksgiving and Halloween. These items are fun for our retailers to merchandise and make for great gifting, which is huge right now. We’re also still having success with rainbow and unicorn motifs. In addition, our Woodland Wonderland story is adorable with hand-stitching on woodland animals and soft florals in grays, blush pink and dijon—all still key colors for this fall. We created some cool graphics and pompom treatments for our llama story this season. And for Joyous & Free, expect to see many new jumpsuit bodies. We’re introducing tons of knits, too, for layering underneath. I especially love the wine and blush pink color combo. Denim blue paired with Pantone’s color of the year, living coral, is another favorite combination of mine.

IT ’S ALL ABOUT PROVIDING AS MANY TOOLS AS POSSIBLE TO OUR RETAILERS BECAUSE IF THEY DON'T SUCCEED, NEITHER WILL WE .

Do you plan on expanding your boys’ division? Eventually, but that’s been very challenging. I was excited to start a boys’ line after having my first son seven years ago. And once my second son came along, I was like ‘This is it. I have to do it.” But since everything is made in Bali, it’s hard for me to compete with the added costs. I had a pretty extensive collection when we launched, but it just can’t carry the same price points little girls’ items can. Most people just aren’t willing to spend that much on their boys. We’ve hit our targets in T-shirts, so that’s where we’re sticking for now until we figure out a better solution. How are your retail partners faring in today’s climate? It’s affecting tiers in different ways. While this marks my seventeenth year in business, and I have worked through all different types of economic conditions, none are as particularly difficult as now. There’s just so much more competition for wholesalers and retailers. It’s very cutthroat, and loyalty only counts for so much. In many instances, it’s too much about the numbers. Our industry must support each other. For Haven Children, we’ve lowered our minimums and we’ve push deliveries out

when needed. We even modeled our deliveries after the women’s market (shipping almost every month), which I think has worked out well for our boutique clientele. It just makes more sense to deliver goods more often so your customer has a reason to check back. However, if a store prefers to get it all at once, we're happy to accommodate them. We also provide loads of marketing collateral—every single garment has been photographed on a model. It’s all about providing as many tools as possible to our retailers because if they don’t succeed, neither will we. What do you attribute your company’s longevity to most? There is so much to this answer, but it comes down to the strong relationships with our reps, suppliers and retailers. We never take any of them for granted. It’s a privilege to be in this business as long as we have. We always pay close attention to meeting the needs of our customers, working hard 24-7. Many all-nighters have been pulled along the way, but every one of them has been worth it. What do you love most about your job? That it’s continually changing. It never gets old seeing a seed of a thought turn into a garment. The whole process is totally new each season. Plus, I

W H A T ’S S E L L I N G

Just Hatched Guilford, CT

AREN HELBURN FOUND herself in the chilAny unique preferences of your clientele? We’re a shoreline dren’s retail industry out of desperation. Her community located not to far from the Long Island Sound, so it never son was born with severe allergies to synthetic ceases to amaze me how much nautical product we sell year after year. fabrics and dyes, forcing Helburn to hunt for Lobster, crab and anchor motifs consistently do well. chemical-free products, which was quite a feat in 1997 before the internet. “It sounds like the What are your best-selling brands? Pink Chicken, Kickee Pants, dinosaur age because I had to use the yellow pages to find brands and Angel Dear and Petit Bateau. We used to carry Catimini, but I found retailers with organic cotton,” Helburn says. they were competing too much with Egg and Pink Chicken. As her mom friends began requesting purchases, Helburn started hosting “tupperware How about toys and accessories? Jellycat parties” with her finds until she gained the is our primary plush brand, and they have growing following and confidence to open an absolute cult following who know the her own store. Just Hatched, a 1,100-squarenames of all the animals. The Manhattan foot space located on the Connecticut Toy Company is another vendor I can rely shoreline, is dedicated to gifts and clothing on for high quality. Honestly, the biggest for babies including an extensive selection surprise is the percentage of my sales that of chemical-free goods. “Our job is to join go to books—my customers love to read! the customer in celebration, whether they’re buying for a sister, neighbor, grandchild or What’s your secret to attracting new custheir first child,” Helburn says. “Our job is tomers? There’s nothing like a 23-year-old easy because they’re already giddy.” with a smartphone. This young staff member Besides superior customer service and is more savvy than I am with social media unique products, Just Hatched’s corpoand does great work with our Instagram rate baby gifting service has been another and Facebook. We lean on Instagram more major draw over the past 22 years. “Most because it allows us to entice customers with employers are expensing baby gifts and beautiful pictures, which is always better have no idea what’s being sent,” Helburn than straight selling. I can tell when she’s says, noting that Just Hatched works with posted something new because I will get corporate employers to select quality gift three calls about pom-pom hats in one day. packages for staff who are becoming new parents. Another factor contributing to Beyond the power of social media, how the success of Just Hatched is its annual else do you draw customers? We have tent sale, where Helburn purchases excess an employee who used to be a teacher and Just Hatched was founded with a focus on inventory from vendors as well as clears now does community outreach by reading chemical-free and organic products. out her old stock. “I can make almost full to pre-k classrooms. We donate books for margin and still pass the discount to the that. And for Valentine’s Day, the class drew customer,” she says, suggesting that other retailers try something some gorgeous artwork for the store. We hung it gallery-style, and similar. “Customers love it, vendors love it and we love it—everyone moms loved coming in to see their child’s work. wins,” Helburn says. —Aleda Johnson What’s been your biggest challenge of late? Maintaining my staff How’s business? It’s been great. We have an almost 16-percent inis always difficult because I expect a lot from them for a retail salary. crease over last year, which is pretty good considering other retailers The best employees are those who truly believe in our mission. In order talking about losing share to online dealers. In this environment, I’m for employees to join customers in celebration, they need to be happy happy. We continue to grow every year—with the exception of 2008. and care whole-heartedly. Selling will never be as effective, otherwise. People keep reproducing, so we keep selling. Where do you envision Just Hatched in five years? As successful Who’s your core customer? Grandparents are a large percentage as possible because in five to 10 years I would like to sell it. My plan is of our business. They are the least price resistant and purchase emoto continue to shore up our walls and make careful decisions for sound tionally. That’s as long as we hold up our end of the bargain, which is investments. It should be airtight and turnkey, so someone can buy it providing exciting product they can’t resist. already making money.

E A R N S H AW S .C O M

BE THE BUYER

BROUGHT TO YOU BY

Los Angeles Rebecca Ebershoff Showroom (213) 622-9879 rebersgiff@sbcglobal.net

Dream Big Melody Nabati, co-founder of Mini Dreamers, on rocketing from online startup to international success through the art of buying and curation. BE SELECTIVE There are a ton of amazing children’s brands out

there but buying metallic leggings of different labels won’t help you or your customer. It’s hard not to overbuy, but it’s even harder to always get questions about which metallic legging is really the best one. Don’t put HOME RUNS yourself in a position where your brands Playwear are directly competing with one another T2Love and on the rack. Choose one, and be done.

New York The Rose Garden (212)564-5100 customercare@ therosegardenny.com Chicago Bob Detty (317)626-7563 r.detty@sbcglobal.net Dallas / Atlanta The Coffs Showroom (214)630-9787 info@thecoffs.com

Californian Vintage

R-E-S-P-E-C-T Please don’t take anything

too personally. Unfortunately, I can’t like every piece from every collection—and that’s okay! It’s wonderful when brands are passionate about what they create, but it’s challenging if they’re too sensitive. I encourage brands to listen to each buyer and avoid pushing pieces they’re telling you won’t work for their customer.

Accessories Lilies & Roses and Milk & Soda

@m.l.kids

ML Kids

www.mlkids.design (770) 831-5322 mlkidswear@gmail.com

Dresswear Tutu Du Monde Outerwear Appaman and Nununu

PRICE CHECK Customers can shop at Old

Pajamas Esme

Navy and Gap for basics, but they come Gifts to boutiques for what’s unique. Parents Sparkle by Stoopher won’t mind spending extra for special and Rowdy Sprout occasions, but you better do you’re part in offering something truly different at a competitive price. Do your research, and know what’s out there. Offering coordinating styles for siblings is very important these days. From birth announcements to vacation photos, moms want to capture that too-cute shot for her friends to go crazy over—and hopefully ask where she got the outfits. Our selection ranges from baby to size 10, and there’s even opportunities to special order matching looks for Mom! M ATC H Y- M ATC H Y

STAY ON THE LOOKOUT Inspiration is everywhere, so it’s important

to always have an eye out. Our business is like a mini department store for kids, carrying over 120 clothing lines from around the world. I find brands in all different places. Trade shows, Instagram and recommendations from our customers are all valuable resources. I try to stay up to date on the hot brands, as well as search for unique ones that fit our vibe. w w w. i l o v e p l a y t i m e . c o m