LO C A L A DVA N TA G E
G LO B E T R O T T I N G W I T H T E A C O L L E C T I O N
K L E I N E FA B R I E K
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FOR GIRLS 7-16, LAUNCHING FALL ‘13 MAMIYE BROTHERS INC. 212-216-6029
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TO ORDER, PLEASE CONTACT: firstname.lastname@example.org or 212-391-4143
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SnoPea logo and “tag line” are registered trademarks of SnoPea, Inc. © 2013 SnoPea, Inc.
For babies only
Extraordinary garments for young sprouts!
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2013 This page: Anais and I dress with Kensie Girl sweater underneath, Oeuf banner. Cover: Deux par Deux jumper, Peas and Queues striped shirt, Oeuf mittens and arm warmers, Peace of Cake hat, TicTacToe tights, Anais and I boots. Photography by Katrina Tang; styling by Michel Onofrio.
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EARNSHAW’S INFANTS, GIRLS AND BOYS WEAR REVIEW ISSN 0161-2786 (USPS-320-090) Vol. 97 Issue 3. The business and fashion magazine of the children’s wear industry is published monthly (except bi-monthly April/May and Nov/Dec) editions by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, 36 Cooper Square, 4th Floor, New York, NY 10003. The publishers of this magazine do not assume responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage is paid in New York, N.Y. and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: U.S. $48; Rates outside U.S. available upon request. Single price copy, $5. Copyright 2013 by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC. Postmaster: Send address changes to Earnshaw’s Infants, Girls and Boys Wear Review, P.O. Box 8548, Lowell, MA 01853-8548. Publisher is not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts or photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender. Symphony Publishing NY, LLC will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. No portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. Printed in USA.
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Fall ’13 trends mix patterns and materials with playfulness.
THERE’S SOMETHING MAGICAL about bundling up in fall’s finest and playing in the woods on a crisp day. That’s E D I T O R ’ S L E T T E R just what our models did for this issue, donning a globetrotting host of childrenswear brands. Photographer Katrina Tang captured them, a folkloric tribe, inhabiting the woods, skipping across tree stumps, and romping through the grasses in imaginative masks and crowns of feathers while deep in a game of hide and seek. In “Free Bird” fashion is merry with mixed prints and mixed media, to a quirky and spirited effect. The childrenswear business is an international spectacle with brands hailing from all corners of the globe. We travel to Kleine Fabriek to check out the latest styles at the prominent Dutch trade show. We also sit down with Jared Levine of Jamari International, a showroom and distributor that carries a range of European heavyweights like Stella McCartney Kids, Versace and Petit Bateau, to talk about the European and American luxury kids’ markets. We check in with Leigh Rawdon and Emily Meyer of Tea Collection, a San Franciscobased brand that sets sail to a new international destination every season (for Fall ’13 it was China) for design inspiration. The folks at Tea really tap into something that is creating a strong point of difference in their vendor relation-
ships, hosting workshops and fashion shows, and even giving their employees and key retailers an “international travel stipend,” deepening their commitment to the core of their brand. In “Get Involved,” we explore what retailers are doing to stand out to their customers in this global market—creating memorable shopping experiences that capitalize on the local advantage. We also take a special look at sleepwear in this issue. In “Good Nights” we learned the latest trends and regulations that apply to nighttime fashions. But rest assured, sleep is not something any of us will have this month, what with all of the Fall ’13 buying to be done at ENK and Playtime New York to add to what we did in New York, Las Vegas and all over Europe in January and February. If what we’ve seen so far is any indication, Fall ’13 will be at once enchanting like a folktale and magnificently modern. See you at the shows!
JENNIFER CATTAUI email@example.com
SUPER SOFT CLOTHING FOR INFANTS AND TODDLERS WWW.KICKEEPANTS.NET | (310) 492-5707
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FA L L / W I N T E R ’ 1 3 R U N WAY R O U N D U P
Across the Universe
Proof that fine fashion is a universal language, Earnshaw’s chatted with buyers from leading department stores and boutiques in fashion nerve centers like Milan and Paris, as well as up-andcoming Sydney, to discover the colors, silhouettes and flair that captured their
sartorial eye. From optimistic bursts of yellow and renewing emerald to elegant brocades and lush sweaters, no matter where you’re from, Fall ’13 promises to be a deliciously decadent season chockfull of sophisticated, imaginative and good ol’ happy fashion. By Angela Velasquez
ODILE MORVAN Head of Buying Children for Galeries Lafayette Paris, France
Twee by Miss Grant
From CIFF Kids
Standout Silhouettes: Slim pants are unavoidable this season. Duffle pants—not like tracksuit pants, but as in Colorama’s have a casual chic look—are also trendright. Girls’ silhouettes include structured skirts, wrap skirts and half-slips. There are a lot of structured dresses in Carven’s collection made with rich damask materials and brocade. There’s also unstructured shapes for tops and dresses with the back longer than the front.
Quis Quis and From the World
Embellished Stories: Combinations of lace and tulle in pale colors soften looks. There’s a lot of brilliance in materials by way of Lurex.
Quis Quis and From the World
Twee by Miss Grant
Fun & Fun
Bundle Up: For boys, the hooded down jacket with fur is a must. For girls, wool coats with a couture look are just right on top of flowing dresses. Colors Un-coded: Nudes, like pink, beige and off-white; pure red for girls and burgundy for boys; shades of yellow (between sun and mustard), green, khaki and purple. Extra, Extra: Fancy tights (with Lurex details) to complete the outfit.
Twee by Miss Grant
Twin Set Quis Quis and From the World
From CIFF Kids
Print-tastic: Graphic themes in black and white were seen in many collections. Animal themes are everywhere and camouflage is more sophisticated then simply military.
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CELIA MORRIS Owner and Buyer for Shorties Children’s Wear in Sydney, Australia
fashion that will only end up in a landfill. I scout for well-made and classic pieces, without logos.
Favorite Look: A laid back style combining vintage and new, seemingly thrown together—like the mash-up “street urchin” meets “little lord” look.
Wish List: It would be fantastic to see more whimsy and fun when it comes to children’s fashion. Instead of dressing kids head-to-toe in designer “cool,” why not add something childish, or kitschy and unexpected? I always look for designers who celebrate the childish spirit, never cover it up.
Colors Un-coded: I’m loving yellow and white, and brown with white. Embellished Stories: There’s a return to handcrafted and bespoke clothing for children—handknitted and hand-sewn, heirloom quality, made with love and care. I try to avoid trend-driven
Must-have Items: Denim dungarees, anything with a Peter Pan collar or a standout vintage piece.
CINZIA BALDELLI Head of Childrenswear for La Rinsacente in Milan, Italy Sportswear Stars: Armani Junior, Polo Ralph Lauren and Moncler were the most influential sportswear labels. The comfortable and easy to wear clothes offer a mix of original fabrics with technological effects.
Kids Rock the Flow
Colors Un-coded: The main colors are greens, oranges, yellows and blues that harmonize with a playful world dedicated to children. The colors create a total look that is unique and new. Stella McCartney and Paul Smith did this well.
Quis Quis and From the World
Embellished Stories: Elegant outfits are enriched by hand-made embroideries and made of precious fabrics, such as silk and brocades. Also embellished: distinguished pieces like comfortable sweaters in cashmere and alpaca.
Standout Labels: Mimisol stood out as a specialist, completely focused on childrenswear. Lamantine made a statement as a niche brand while Lanvin turned heads in the luxury segment. Must-have Items: Color for functional pieces, cashmere, sweaters, maxi sweaters and beautiful coats for girls.
Any way you stack it,
Dallas offers more for kids Dallas KidsWorld Market APPAREL. GIFT. ACCESSORIES. TOY.
March 18-21, 2013 June 19-25, 2013 Dallas Market Center dallasmarketcenter.com 214.744.7444
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BIG WINNERS AT BABY & CHILD DURING THE NEW York International Gift Fair (NYIGF), held January 26 to 30 at the Jacob Javits Center in New York City, standout brands in Baby and Child won Best New Product Awards in several categories. Judges, Earnshaw’s Jennifer Cattaui; Jamie Cohen, Giftmama. com; Leesa Valentino, TheGiggleGuide.com; Liz Gumbinner, Coolmompicks.com; Joanna Dreifus, MyMomShops.com; Lynda M. Johnson, KidStyleSource.com; and Barbara Wujick, Giftware News and Baby and Kids, chose the winners out of almost 70 products from the Winter ’13 edition. Benbini won the Blogger’s Best award for its Benbini Watches, which help mom time naps, feedings and time-outs.
For Décor, the judges chose the 3 Sprouts laundry hamper for its combination of style and function. In the Toy category, the award was given to Home Grown Books for Set 3: Artist Sara Woster. This collection of eight books for early readers displays oil paintings by the artist with one-word to two-short sentences on each page. MadPax’s Blok Fullpack, a backpack featuring 3-D details, won for the Gear category. And Zipit’s Happy Playsuit won the coveted Apparel award for Best New Product. The playsuit allows for easy changing with its full-front zipper opening. The next NYIGF, which has been renamed NY Now, will be on August 17 to 21.
FOLLOW US ON TWITTER LIKE US ON FACEBOOK WWW.ELEGANTBABY.COM 800.334.5321
The Best New Products Award Winners, from left to right: Randi Mohr, GLM Sales Director Home; Scott Kramer, GLM Sales Director Lifestyle; Patricia Rivas, Baby & Child Sales Manager; Ruth Waddingham of Zipit; Kyla Ryman of Home Grown Books; Tina Huber of MadPax, LLC; Jacqueline Crisci of Benbini; Jenny Fosgate of Benbini; and Obsidian Graham of 3 Sprouts.
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FUNDED EAGER ENTREPRENEURS AS well as manufacturers and retailers seeking to learn a bit more about crowdfunding attended Earnshaw’s seminar at NYIGF in January, moderated by Editor-in-Chief, Jennifer Cattaui. Attendees got a wealth of information from the expert panel, which included Mitchell Littman, founding partner of Littman Krooks LLP, Alex Larsen, owner of Larsen Toy Lab, which makes eco-friendly and educational blocks and Mariquel Waingarten, co-founder of Hickies, a company that’s patented a snazzy alternative answer to shoe laces. Both companies raised money for their ventures through successful Kickstarter campaigns. The panel also included Talia Handler, an intrepid senior at Parsons School of Design, who used crowdfunding to fund her six-look senior thesis project, a fanciful childrenswear collection. Littman demystified the Jobs Act, which was passed nearly a year ago, and the additional opportunity it affords, namely, the ability of companies to raise capital for equity (something that today’s Kickstarter model does not include). Although the nuts and bolts of the regulations’ application have not been established by the SEC, more direction is expected later this year or early 2014. Larsen, Waingarten and Handler gave several tips on making the most of a non-equity crowdfunding campaign. Recommendations included producing a great video and promoting heavily to friends and family through your social media channels.
HICKIES: Hickies raised six times the capital asked for in its Kickstarter campaign to fund its alternative shoe lacing system. Brainchild of Gaston Frydlewski and Mariquel Waingarten, the PVC laces secure adults’ and children’s sneakers so they are always easy on-easy off. Wholesale: $7.50 per pack, minimum 12 packs per color. www. hickies.com.
LARSEN TOY LAB: Larsen Toy Lab gets essential feedback (even toy ideas) from its initial group of donors through its Kickstarter campaign. Alex Larsen started the company with help from his family in mid-2012 after going to business school. With a passion for promoting social responsibility and sustainable ideas, he set forth to produce simple, educational and responsible toys for children. After a successful Kickstarter campaign, he is able to carry on Larsen Toy Lab’s mission of helping kids and parents rediscover the power of building blocks. Made in the U.S.A., drop shipping and personal engraving available. Wholesale: $16-45. www.larsentoylab.com.
TALIA HANDLER: We applaud the pluck of this student at Parsons School of Design who used Kickstarter to fund her senior thesis, a six-piece childrenswear collection. She’s definitely one to watch!
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POPPIN’ NEW WEBSITE, Storefront.com, is a one-stop shop for startups looking to rent a space short-term. The site connects its users with spaces that are open for short-term leases—ideal for a pop-up shop concept, and a win-win for both the landlord and the renter. Brands or retailers can search by location and price range to find the ideal spot to showcase their items. The areas listed are usually available from one week to one month and are meant to help brands get on their feet by establishing a physical presence where they can connect with customers. Storefront also links up the short-term leaser with other businesses in the area to build community.
JOIN US AT PLAYTIME DURING THE NEXT Playtime edition, taking place March 9 to 11 at the Saint John’s Center in New York City, the workshop for brands looking to build their childrenswear business in the U.S. will now be held on Monday, March 11 at 8:15 a.m.
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OUT THE U.S. CONSUMER Product Safety Commission (CPSC) investigators stopped nearly 3 million units of imported product in the third quarter of fiscal year 2012. This was nearly three times the number of units stopped in the previous two quarters combined. A joint release issued by CPSC and U.S. Customs and Border Protection (CBP) revealed that at least 2,400 different toys and children’s products—making up more than 2 million individual units— have been stopped at the ports during the past four years because of the presence of safety hazards or the failure to meet federal safety standards. Products with levels of lead and phthalate exceeding federal limits topped the list, followed by toys and other articles with small parts that present a choking hazard for kids younger than 3 years old.
NEW KID ON THE BLOCK BON BÉBÉ, A division of International Intimate Holdings Inc., has signed a 10-year lease for 10,157 square feet of showroom space on the ninth floor at 34 W 33rd Street in New York, a building also dubbed as The Childrenswear Center. The clothing company, which is responsible for such brands as René Rofé Baby, Wild Child and a host of private labels, including Isaac Mizrahi Baby, relocated from 112 West 34th Street.
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fresh finds Recognizing a gap in the market for Europeaninfluenced ensemble outfits for boys and girls, brother-sister team Gilbert and Jasmine Chen created GIL & JAS, a collection of coordidWj[ZYbej^_d]_di_p[i(je-$8kjjedZemdi" meebf[WYeWjiWdZi^WmbYWhZ_]Wdi\ehXeoi Wh[f[h\[Yjbo_diodYm_j^]_hbiÊfh_dj[ZZh[ii[i WdZia_hji$M^eb[iWb[fh_Y[ihWd][\hec',je ,-$L_i_jwww.gilandjas.com.
BWkhWCeobWdÊibel[e\YebehWdZfWii_ed \ehc_Z#(&th century silhouettes and fabrics inspired her to launch EMERALD AUGUST"[dl_hedc[djWbbo#YediY_eki Ybej^_d]\eh]_hbii_p[i(je'&j^WjÊi Wdoj^_d]XkjY^_bZ_i^$J^[7jbWdjW"
GA-based line spans rompers, dresses and tunics to shorts, skirts, pants and ib[[fm[Wh"WdZ[WY^f_[Y[_icWZ[_d the U.S.A. using sustainable fabrics. M^eb[iWb[fh_Y[ihWd][\hec'&je(-$ Check out www.emeraldaugust.com.
M^[d@Wd[LWd9b[[\ijWhj[ZHAZEL VILLAGE _d(&'&"i^[cWZ[[l[homeeZbWdZYh[Wjkh[Xo ^WdZ_d^[hWjj_Y_d8heeabod"DO$JeZWoi^[ mehaim_j^Wdeh]Wd_Y#Y[hj_\_[Z\WYjeho_d?dZ_W jecWa[j^['*#_dY^fbki^jeoiWdZWbbj^[_h Ybej^_d]$;WY^Zebbm^eb[iWb[i\eh'.WdZYec[i m_j^WdWZehWXb[ekj\_jWdZWim[[jXWYaijeho$=e to www.hazelvillage.com.
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Dehm_WdXhWdZMEMINI is bringing _jii_cfb[IYWdZ_ijob[jeK$I$i^eh[i \ehj^[\_hijj_c[$?dif_h[ZXoZ[i_]d[h Kristine Vikse’s childhood growing up on her family’s farm, each garment is tested to withstand repeated washings and the hek]^WdZjkcXb[b_\[e\a_Zi$J^[b_d[
is made in ethical and environmentally \h_[dZbo\WYjeh_[i_d9^_dWWdZ?dZ_WWdZ is available for boys and girls in sizes d[mXehdje'(o[Whi$M^eb[iWb[fh_Y[i hWd][\hec-je/,$L_i_jwww.memini. no$
Designed and produced in Minnesota by boutique owner Mary Lauer, OH BABY! offers clothing for boys and girls sizes 0 to ,o[Whi$?dif_h[ZXoj^[iYWhY_joe\ZkhWXb[ cotton playwear in the market (especially for boys) the fall line spans receiving blankets to rompers and features whimsical animals, friendly monsters and words j^Wjh[YWbbj^[i_cfb[`eoie\Y^_bZ^eeZ$ M^eb[iWb[fh_Y[ihWd][\hec,$+&je)/$ Check out www.ohbabystyle.com$
?dWi[We\BWZo Gaga-esque oversized hair bows and ironic animal ears, ISABEL ET TOI is a breath of \h[i^W_h$J^_ib_d[e\ handmade hair accessories for babies and toddlers is inspired by YbWii_Y<h[dY^ijob[$ Print materials are carefully selected to complement the inner charm and grace of b_jjb_hbi$M^eb[iWb[ fh_Y[ihWd][\hec+ je)($;#cW_b isabelettoi@gmail. com$
Made from heavy-duty, recycled materials, the new backpacks and lunch packs from ecofriendly APPLE PARK are duraXboZ[i_]d[Z\eh[l[hoZWoki[$ ;WY^fWYa^WiWdWc[jW]WdZWd apple zipper pull and comes in designs such as Monkey, Cubby,
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Alexander Dolls Turns 90
Happy Socks Offers Infant Box Sets HAPPY SOCKS WILL debut infant boxed sets of combed cotton socks this month. The socks, availWXb[_di_p[i&je'("m_bb\[Wjkh[i_]dWjkh[>Wffo Socks details, including stripes, argyles, dots and color blocking. Each box will contain six pairs of socks and have a magnetic closure, decorated with a grosgrain ribbon—perfect for gifting. Each box m^eb[iWb[i\eh')$+&$<eh_dgk_h_[i"[#cW_bsales@ happysocksnyc.com.
Diaper Dude Teams Up With MLB
DIAPER DUDE IS giving its customers the chance to root for their favorite baseball teams while taking care of their kids with their new partnership with Major League Baseball Properties. “It combines dad’s passion for his favorite team with trend-right, practical, men’s focused diaper bags and accessories,” says Chris Pegula, founder of Diaper Dude. The partnership began with a conversation at the last ABC Kids Expo. “We were excited about this opportunity and felt it was one we couldn’t pass up,” he adds. Pegula calls it a perfect marriage, with products ranging from diaper bags to bottles and pacifier holders. Retail prices are from $8 to $69.99, and the line will be available this summer, just in time for Father’s Day. For more information, email firstname.lastname@example.org.
IN 2013, THE Alexander Doll Company is celebrating almost a century of making every little girl’s favorite doll by bringing back some classic styles and offering products from new collaborations. Original dolls resembling their '/()Yekdj[hfWhji"ikY^WiCW]]_["CY=k\\[o Ana, Cissette and Cissy, will be available for a limited time. A new partnership with Dylan’s 9WdZo8Wh_dif_h[ZjmeWZZ_j_edi\eh(&')Æ an 8-inch doll “Candy Queen,” complete with a candy crown, a pink T-shirt with the store’s logo, and a skirt featuring its iconic stripe, and the “Candy Princess,” who sports red flats, a candy-dot bracelet, and the multi-colored candyspill pattern the store is known for. The Alexander Doll Company will also release the ÇF_daWb_Y_ekiMWi^WXb[È'(#_dY^Zebb"XWi[Z on Victoria Kann’s book Pinkalicious, this year. “Dolls based on literary characters have always X[[d_dekhYebb[Yj_ed"ÈiWoi=Wb[@Whl_i"fh[i_dent of the Alexander Doll Company. “The design lent itself to [the washable category] and it enables us to reach a younger audience.” The dolls, which range in retail price \hec)/$/+je'(+"m_bbX[WlW_bWXb[_dif[cialty and better department stores, as well as on the company’s website. To find out more, reach out to email@example.com.
Xcel Brands Adds New Isaac Mizrahi Licenses FOR FALL ’13, Xcel Brands will introduce new Isaac Mizrahi lines to the children’s marketplace. The company is partnering with @[hhoB[_]^\ehWd?iWWYC_phW^_]_hbiÊWffWh[bb_d[_di_p[i*je',WdZ m_j^IodYbW_h[\ehXeoiÊWdZ]_hbiÊ\eejm[Wh_dWi_p[hWd][\hec+je ''$ÇCo]kjj[bbic[j^Wj[l[hob_jjb_hb_d7c[h_YW_i]e_d]jemWdj these dresses and the kids’ sportswear, and the shoes are delightful,” says Robert D’Loren, CEO and chairman of Xcel Brands. “It’s just been an exciting part of the market for us where we think we can express the brand well.” D’Loren describes the apparel line as classic Isaac Mizrahi, with polka dots, leopard prints, and black and white patterns accented with pink. The line retails from (, \eh j[[i je /( \eh Zh[ii[i$ J^[ shoe collection ranges from flats to tiny heels with fun colors and patterns and _i fh_Y[Z Wj ++ je ,/ h[jW_b$ 9edjWYj Erika Stair at Xcel Brands at estair@ xcelbrands.comm_j^gk[ij_edi$
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Check out our new crib! 34 W 33rd Street • 9th Floor • NY, NY 10001 bonbebe.com
better baby clothes
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Fournier cowl scarf
Christopher Fischer texting gloves
Miss Me vest
5 Oeuf mittens
Hatley animal hat
7 Sorel boots
WARM & TOASTY
From texting gloves and snow boots to earmuffs and animal hats, these adorable winter accessories are sure to be a huge hit with little ladies. By Lyndsay McGregor
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ON TREND FAIR ISLE
Clockwise from top left: Kapital K footed one-piece, Pearls and Popcorn cardigan, sweater dress by Egg Baby, Gil & Jas cardigan.
FAIREST OF THEM ALL
For a pattern with chilly Scottish roots, Fair Isle can sure warm up the heart. Named after a tiny island just north of Scotland, the traditional knit is coziness personified with wintery prints, soothing color palettes, and yarns as soft as a baby’s bottom. King Edward VIII may have given Fair Isle the royal seal of approval and more recently the likes of Ted Baker and Juicy Couture have made it trendy, but children’s designers add a sweetness and tenderness to the fabled knit that can’t be beat. —Angela Velasquez
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ON TREND BLACK & WHITE
BLACK TIE Whether you call it a Half Moon, Half-and-Half or a Black-and-White cookie, the chocolate and vanilla fondant covered treat has been an instant classic since it hit New York bakery counters in the early 20th century. While most of the cookie’s popularity comes from its deliciousness, a good amount is also owed to its bold, statement-making, color contrasting appearance—the same eye-catching recipe that makes these fall black and white pieces must-haves. —A.V.
Clockwise from top right: Claesen’s tee and boxers, Adeline Halvorson Artworks cat tote, Monkeybar Buddies shorts, Vans sneaker, dress by Zoë Ltd.
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SPOTLIGHT APPAREL & ACCESSORIES
Wholesale: $10-$35 Sizes: 3 to 24 months, 3 to 6 toddler
From Pearls to Popcorn The French brand outfits its customers in elegant basics.
IN 2004, RONIT Pardo was freelancing as a childrenswear designer when she realized she wanted to create her own collection and call all the shots. “I wanted to be able to make the decisions from A to Z, as sometimes the designs that I had drawn did not always end up in the shops the way I had planned,” she notes. So when she had her son in 2007, she decided to finally make her dream a reality with Pearls and Popcorn. Pardo describes the brand as “very wearable chic and European style at a price point that is affordable to all.” She says the keys to the line are comfort and practicality, and she encourages her customers “to roll up their sleeves and get messy.” Pearls and Popcorn offers basics, from knit sweaters to soft cotton T-shirts, but the designer says the fun is in the tiny features. “We try to make sure that there is always a small detail to be discovered on each piece of clothing, whether it is a little smock at the back of a tee, a hidden print or embroidery, a cut slit pocket, etc. It is the little things that make the big difference,” she notes. The inspiration for Fall ’13 collections is back-to-school shopping. “There is nothing more exciting than buying school supplies, which basically signals the end of those summer days,” Pardo says. For its “Preppy for School” line, navy blue, red and yellow are star colors, while graphic tee designs include textbook prints that feature such quips as “Time to Play,” with a printed watch on the cuff. “The fabrics are all super-soft cottons, and the goal is to achieve maximum com-
fort stylishly,” Pardo adds. For girls, standout pieces include denim chambray blouses and dresses that “transform a girly look into an ultra-wearable, usable piece.” The second collection, “Norwegian Woods,” centers on winter whites and softer colors, such as toned-down pinks and brick red, with touches of silver-accented yarn, jacquards and flower prints. The boys’ clothes are set for adventure, with explorer-themed sayings and graphics, such as binoculars. A bright coral hue is the central girls’ color in the “Portobello” collection, and the boys’ line returns to wardrobe staples, such as tees, chambray shirts and denim. There is also a holiday capsule collection for girls, which includes a navy tutu with black detailing—“an elegant mix.” But don’t let the elegance fool you—Pardo tries to keep her prices reasonable for customers. “While we want the brand to be elevated and maintain a high-end, luxury look and feel, we want to make sure that moms can build amazing wardrobes for their children and incorporate pieces from each collection, season after season,” she says. With its re-launch at ENK this past January (the booth was so busy that Pardo had to schedule appointments), and its expanded size range into toddlers, the sky is the limit for this French brand. “I hope children will be wearing our clothes from newborn right through to 6 years. We also hope to expand the line; the scope to evolve is endless. I would love to incorporate a layette cashmere line, outerwear, swimwear—the list goes on!”—Maria Bouselli
2/19/13 9:04 AM
Supply & Demand Herschel Supply Co. reinvents the classic backpack.
IN NEW YORK City, Herschel Supply Co. bag sightings are as frequent (and diverse) as run-ins with a Real Housewife. An eclectic mix of hipsters, preps and dapper GQ-types wear the Canadian line of backpacks and bags for work and play—walking proof that good design transcends trend and age, as now kids styles are available. Having spent years working in the lifestyle fashion industry, brothers Jamie and Lyndon Cormack established the company in 2009 with hopes to meld practicality with a timeless look. “We saw that backpacks were becoming overly technical and there was a space in the market for a brand like ours, that was taking nostalgic products and modernizing them for present use,” Lyndon explains. The brand dabbles in everything from men’s and women’s backpacks and duffle bags to hip packs and iPad pouches to two styles for kids, the Settlement backpack with an Wholesale: exposed brass zipper front $39.99pocket and the Heritage, a $49.99 polyester backpack with a leather diamond accent and
reinforced bottom. Cormack says, “We create products for everyone and we price them so that children getting their first school bag can have one and adults who need a good day bag can get one too.” When designing the line, Cormack works backwards to ensure that the end consumer will naturally be attracted to the products. He asks: How are people going to use our products? Who will use them? What do they put in our bags? Styles are ultimately inspired by a mix of objects from contemporary dress shoes to the unique color schemes of modern bikes. “I’m fortune enough to be able to draw from the consumer point of view and from a design point of view. To me, great design will always be appealing,” Cormack states. Colors and prints come and go, but the cofounder says there are a few design elements that are kept throughout all the bags. Each bag has a signature woven label and a contrasting liner, accents that Cormack hopes symbolize the quality and attention to detail. “Many of our fans are familiar with the redand-white pinstripe lining that we have in many of our products, but we’ve also created paisley liners, bird print liners and cottonchambray liners,” he describes. For Fall ’13, the label has expanded its print offerings by adding a new camo design, as well as purple leopard, polka dots and a Chevron print done in a multitude of colors. What excites the brothers the most is seeing people around the world carrying Herschel Supply products. The U.S. is the company’s No. 1 market, followed by Canada, and Cormack reports growth in the U.K., Australia, Japan and Korea. Placement in Nylon, Teen Vogue and GQ has certainly helped the brand land on the radar of trendsetters, but Cormack attributes the brand’s success to his team. “From the head office to our reps and distributors, we have worked incredibly hard to cultivate a team that believes in the vision of the brand,” he notes. That team also includes a myriad of retailers that Cormack considers the best sport stores, local shops and online retailers. He says, “All these retailers push us to create the best product and in turn gets them incredibly excited to get our products in their doors and online.” —Angela Velasquez
2/19/13 9:04 AM
Pint-Size Players Feiyue Kids’ Fall ’13 collection has children looking just like mom and dad.
Wholesale: $12-$26 Sizes: EU 22-34
CATIMINI NEW-YORK Boutique: 1125 Madison Avenue (212) 987 0688 Wholesale: 212 279 7672 ext 312
WHEN CHINESE-BORN, France-based brand Feiyue (“flying forward”) landed its kids’ kicks on U.S. soil last year it had a feeling the scaled-down sneakers would be a hit. After all, actions speak louder than words and since the line was lifted from relative obscurity in 2006 the children’s collection represents 8 percent of its global turnover. “Colorful designs and accessible prices make the range very attractive for buyers,” says North America Sales Manager Cynthia Pelletier. Started way back in 1920s Shanghai and built off the core tenants of quality and timeless aesthetics, the heritage-inspired brand debuted takedowns of its bestselling adults’ styles in sizes 22 to 34 during the Spring ’13 markets, with child-friendly details like Velcro straps and multicolored eyelets in materials spanning canvas, suede and leather to denim, nylon and wool. For Fall ’13 the brand has added two new styles: the Feiyue Hi Kid, a high-cut version of the classic Feiyue Lo Kid, and the A.S. High Kid, an urban sneaker featuring three hook-and-loop straps on the upper. “Feiyue Kids’ many different designs are specially adapted to children’s needs. Comfortable, colorful and practical, they’re
perfect to be worn daily,” says Cristina Alvarez, international marketing manager, who adds that the price tag (the line wholesales from $12 to $26) makes them a firm favorite of parents’ pockets. Also on the fall horizon is a collaboration with Milk on the Rocks, an eclectic kids’ clothing line based in New York. “For little boys dreaming of exotic adventures, a tiger sneaker, and for little girls, a romantic style in pink and gold featuring a heart-shaped tongue,” Alvarez shares. Feiyue is hoping to reinforce its retail presence in New York in 2013, expanding to the rest of the country throughout the year, and in May the brand will launch an online store for the U.S. and Canada. “Our existing e-shop already delivers to these countries, but the warehouse is still located in France which unfortunately means added fees and shipping time for our North American consumers,” Pelletier says, but she’s quick to add that it hasn’t stopped U.S. sales from flourishing. A new online shop will ship the products directly from North America, shortening delivery time and making returns easier. “The love and demand for Feiyue in the U.S.A. is strong, as most of our online sales come from [there], even with the extra fees and shipping time,” she says. —Lyndsay McGregor
2/19/13 9:04 AM
and more literal—approach to bendable footwear with his eponymous line of Wholesale: foldable ballet flats. Since 2009, New $20-$30 York City-based Samara has carved Sizes: 5C a niche in the women’s market with to 4Y moderately priced packable shoes that make traveling a breeze. “I launched the flats more as an online concept store and then it took off overnight,” he says. That’s putting it lightly. In the first season, Samara sold three times the amount of pairs he anticipated (approximately 50-60,000) and the line drew buyers from the likes of Harvey Nichols and Piperlime right out of the gate. Sold in more than 85 countries, Samara has since opened branded stores in Saudi Arabia, Korea, Turkey and the Philippines. The enthusiastic response to the women’s line and moms’ demand for children’s styles confirmed what Samara always IN A COMPETITIVE market where designbelieved: a children’s line was a no-brainer. ers might feel pressured to bend to consumThe kids’ line launched for Holiday 2012 ers’ every whim so long as it results in a sale, with a girls’ ballet flat modeled after the designer Yosi Samara has stood his ground in women’s Classic. Trendy retailers like Kitson traditional shoemaking by taking a unique— of Los Angeles and Lester’s on the East Coast
Easy Does It
Yosi Samara adds an element of ease and comfort to girls’ footwear.
took a fancy to the collection’s metallic, leopard print, pink pony hair and black and white cap toe styles. This isn’t Samara’s first foray into children’s footwear. The son of a 30-year footwear veteran, Samara had an early education in shoemaking working alongside his father on his J. Loren line and helped launch the brand’s children’s collection. Fall 2013 delivers a collection of ballet flats and Samara’s latest additions—a bootie and an elastic loafer silhouette—both in line with the brand’s premise of ultra-flexible, fold-up footwear. “We’re using a lot of modern fabrics and textures,” Samara says of the leather line accented with croc, cap toes, glitter bows and heart studs. The autumn palette spans midnight blue and jewel tone Bordeaux to bright pink, which the designer reports does exceptionally well. “We did a study recently and pink was a top seller even in the women’s line,” he adds. For now, Samara says the brand is staying true to how it launched and will continue to target specialty and high-end boutiques. “We get good attention at this level of retailers and we’ve managed to get great distribution,” he explains. —A.V.
2/19/13 9:04 AM
ON THE BLOCK FIVESTORY
Claire Distenfeld with her father, Fred.
Inspired by European boutique culture, this New York City shop strikes the balance between art and commerce. By Lyndsay McGregor FIRST THING’S FIRST: It’s called Fivestory, but it’s actually just two floors of a townhouse on East 69th Street between Madison and Fifth 7l[dk[i$Eh)"*+,igkWh[\[[je\fh_c[iWb[iifWY[_dCWd^WjjWdÊijedo Kff[h ;Wij I_Z[$ ?jÊi W m[bb#YkhWj[Z ^[Wl[d \eh fhkZ[dj i^eff[hi" Wi m[bbWiWXhWl[cel[Xoj^[\Wj^[h#ZWk]^j[hj[WcX[^_dZj^[bWj[ijbkn#
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“If you keep your head in the game, be resourceful and forward-thinking, you can always find a solution to any challenge.”
gic and cold,” Distenfeld says. She wanted to recreate the thrill of discovery that she felt shopping at Colette in Paris, 10 Corso Como in Milan and Browns in London— places that worked like luxury department stores, but on a more intimate scale. So with the help of her father, Fred, who for years ran Luxury Accessories International (an importer of exotic skins, as well as a bags and belts manufacturer), the duo decided to open a boutique. She spotted the building and the rest, as they say, is history. Well, not quite that easy. The brownstone was actually being sold as a residence, but Distenfeld was persistent and eventually convinced the owners to sell her the space she needed for the store. From there, she hired renowned interior designer Ryan Korban (the visionary who pimped out Alexander Wang’s downtown shop with a fur hammock) and started handpicking pieces from her favorite designers. Despite its Upper East Side location, the store has a distinctly Parisian feel with emerald green walls, black-and-white marble floors and staircases lined with wrought iron balustrade. “Fivestory is special in that it’s not all about the product. It’s about the home the product lives in, the music that surrounds it and the feeling you get before ever seeing a dress, a candle or a shoe,” she says. The boutique opened for business last April and added childrenswear in the fall and—thanks in large part to the whopping amount of press coverage it’s received, from The New York Times and WWD to Vogue, Elle and Lucky —is on track to becoming profitable within its first year of business. Tipping her hat to nearby store competitors (most notably the three B’s: Barneys, Bergdorf’s and Bendel’s), Distenfeld is quick to note that her overall selection is not about following trends; it’s about digging for
treasures through the store’s high-low merchandise mix and striking style gold. For example, a funky Petit Nord pony hair sneaker in leopard print is likely to share shelf space with a Simonetta polka dotted party dress. And while one is priced at $95 and the other at $460, Distenfeld holds both items in equal regard. And though European brands spanning Bonton and Frilo Swiss to heavy hitters like Marni Kids and Young Versace dominate the store’s 3 months to 6 years size range, she doesn’t necessarily think that American designers are missing the mark. “I have just found that the quality and tradition of making children’s clothing with such a care and due diligence is more prominent in Europe than here,” she says, adding “when your child goes to the park or to fingerpaint, a U.S. brand like Gap Kids is perfect—it’s well made, but expendable. But when it’s a holiday, or a first birthday, or an occasion that you know you will have memories and photos of forever, wouldn’t it make sense to wear something that exudes a special quality?” But even with the backing of her father, diving headfirst into retail from the art world—she previously worked for Sotheby’s and the New Museum—was not an easy transition. “Thank God I jumped blindly, because if I’d known what I was in for, it would have been much scarier!” she confesses. “But if you keep your head in the game, be resourceful and forward-thinking, you can always find a solution to any challenge.” Commenting on how easily customers are lured by kids’ clothes, she says parents increasingly want their kids to reflect themselves. “Dressing your child is such a finite experience,” she notes. ÇEd[^Wijei[_p[j^_ieffehjkd_jojeh[WbbocWa[_jc[cehWXb[$È
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2/21/13 1:25 PM
IN FOCUS SLEEP
Infants can sleep soundly in Little Giraffe’s Dream Sack, complete with a zipper at the bottom for easy changes.
OVER THE MOON
Ugg slippers are comfy and cozy for kids—perfect for relaxing at home on cold nights—and come in a variety of colors.
Children can keep warm while dreaming about their next trip to space in this plush robe by Minizzz.
Transportation continues to be a big theme in boys’ pj’s, shown in this KicKee Pants set.
UNDER THE SEA
Cloud B’s Tranquil Starfish soothes children with the sound of ocean waves and lighting that creates a feeling of being underwater.
GIVE A HOOT
Quirky pajamas by Hatley combine style and comfort for kids.
GOOD NIGHTS SLEEPWEAR AND SLEEP ACCESSORIES MAKE REST TIME FUN AND FASHIONABLE FOR KIDS. BY MARIA BOUSELLI
Decorative details, like this elephant pillow by Little Acorn, turn a child’s bedroom into an adventure wonderland.
Girls are sure to get their beauty rest in fit-for-a-princess bedding by British brand Handprint.
3 0 ; 7 H D I > 7M I $ 9 E C C 7 H 9 > ( & ' )
2/18/13 1:19 PM
The Retailer’s View
Skylar Luna founder Wen Reese talks about her chemical-free line.
HAVING FORMERLY BEEN named “Best All Around Kids’ Store” in St. Louis, MO, by St. Louis Magazine, Molly Curlee knows a thing or two about childrenswear, including the need for variety. “We like to have a little bit of everything,” she says of her product mix. She gives retailers some details to consider when adding sleepwear to their floors:
IT’S EASY TO get caught up with
chemicals and fitting sizes with 9FI9hkbWj_edim^[dZ[i_]d_d]ib[[fm[Wh"XkjM[dH[[i[ Z[Y_Z[Zi^[mekbZdÊjb[jj^[i[ ]k_Z[b_d[iZ[j[hc_d[j^[lWb_Z_joe\^[h[Ye#\h_[dZboXhWdZ$I^[ ijWhj[ZIaobWhBkdW_d7k]kij(&''WiWi[fWhWj[XhWdZ\hec^[hY^_bZh[dÊi \Wi^_edb_d["IaobWh"jecWa[[Ye#\h_[dZboib[[fm[Wh\eha_Zi"ki_d]eh]Wd_Y Yejjed"j^WjfkjiWYedj[cfehWhoif_dedYbWii_YZ[i_]di$ Why did you choose to create a pajama-only brand? ?^WZjmeXeoiWdZ?Êl[WbmWoi^WZfheXb[ci\_dZ_d]h[Wbbo]eeZfW`WcWi$ ?YekbZ[Wi_bo\_dZj^[idk]\_jj_d]ed[iWjQijeh[ib_a[S=WfWdZEbZDWlo" Xkjj^[h[m[h[l[hob_c_j[Zefj_edi$J^[om[h[WbiecWii#cWha[jbeea_d]" dejl[hoYec\ehjWXb["WdZm[h[kikWbbofebo[ij[h"ie?j^ek]^j"ÇM^oZedÊj ?ijWhjZe_d]iec[j^_d]i_cfb[WdZceZ[hdbeea_d]5È How is a sleepwear line different from a fashion line? ?jÊio[Wh#hekdZX[YWki[a_Zi^Wl[jem[WhfW`WcWiWbbj^[j_c[$Kdb_a[ \Wi^_edb_d[im^[h[oekc_]^j^Wl[jmeehj^h[[Yebb[Yj_edi"m[i^_fWbb j^[j_c[$M[ZeWZZd[mYebehijm_Y[Wo[Wh"WdZj^_ii[Wied"?Êc_djheZkY_d]WXWXoXeZo$D[nji[Wied"?Êc]e_d]je_djheZkY[Wi^ehj#ib[[l[ jefWdZXejjec$ 7dZ?WXiebkj[boa[[fQa_ZiS_dc_dZm^[dZ[i_]d_d]$J^[\WXh_Y^WiW ijh[jY^je_jWdZj^[i[Wciedj^[_di_Z[Wh[\bWjiej^[oÊh[dejiYhWjY^o$? Ze^Wl[je\ebbemQ9FI9ShkbWj_edi"QXkjSm_j^_dj^k_Z[b_d[i?cWa[ j^[\WXh_YWdZj^[i[Wciceh[Yec\ehjWXb[\ehj^[a_Zi$A_ZiWh[_dfW`WcWiceije\j^[ZWo"[if[Y_Wbbooekd][hed[i$OekZedÊjmWdjj^Whc[dj jeej_]^j1oekmWdjjecWa[ikh[_jÊiYec\ehjWXb[WdZeh]Wd_Y"ie_jÊi]eeZ \ehj^[c$ Are there any trends that you’re seeing in pajamas? 7beje\l[hol_XhWdjYebehi$7dZijh_f[iWh[WbmWoiYbWii_YÆf[efb[WbmWoi bel[ijh_f[i$M[^Wl[jme#Yebehijh_f[i"WdZm[_djheZkY[Zj^h[[#Yebeh ijh_f[ij^WjWh[WbbZ_\\[h[djm_Zj^i$7dZekhWbb#el[hfh_djiWh[l[hol_djW][beea_d]$8eoib_a[j^[_hjhWdifehjWj_ed"WdZj^[obel[j^[_hcedij[hi" Xkj_jÊiWXekjfkjj_d]WZ_\\[h[djif_ded_j$M[^WZWl[hofefkbWhYWh Wbb#el[hfh_djbWiji[Wied"iem[Yedj_dk[jecWa[_j"Xkj_dij[WZe\ki_d] QceZ[hdSYWhi"m[ki[Wl_djW][beea_d]YWh\hecj^['/+&i$
LOUNGEWEAR VERSUS SLEEPWEAR? While some may think describing an item as loungewear instead of sleepwear will get them off the hook in regards to testing, the CPSC is one step ahead. The agency describes children’s pajamas in its Children’s Sleepwear Regulations as “any article of clothing, such as a nightgown, pajama, robe or loungewear.” “The CPSC put out notices 28 years ago or more that they considered loungewear to be sleepwear for the purpose of the children’s sleepwear standard,” says Gordon Damant, flammability expert of Damant and Associates. Therefore, loungewear must undergo the same testing as sleepwear, which helps to keep kids safe.
Molly Curlee, owner of City Sprouts, shares some tips on choosing a sleepwear selection.
Pajamas sell all year round. While Curlee does name the holiday season as a peak time to sell sleepwear, she notes that pajamas are a big seller throughout the year. “I am surprised by how many we sell for the springtime too. We just got some new short-sleeved pajamas in and they’re adorable. They’ve been selling really well,” she says, adding, “And I do think it’s a good gifty item.” It’s all in the merchandising. Curlee has a section in City Sprouts devoted to children’s sleepwear, where hanging and folded pajamas mingle with bedtime necessities. “The folded pajamas are next to bedtime books and blankets, so it’s a little sleep area,” she says. Find the brand that’s right for you. “We only do Tea Collection sleepwear, because we feel it’s important to offer sleepwear that isn’t chemically treated,” she notes. “It fits snuggly and has no polyester. It’s a different alternative from what you can find at [mass retailers].” Fashionable touches add a twist to traditional pajamas. The owner says that contemporary styling seems to be a new trend in the sleepwear category. She notes that Tea Collection uses unique images on the pajamas, and offers various styles, such as shorts with tank tops as well as long-sleeved options.
Licensed to Sleep Licensing and pajamas go hand-in-hand in children’s sleepwear. WHEN THINKING OF children’s pajamas, visions of princesses and superheroes immediately come to mind. And that’s how Michael Diablo, president and COO of SGI Apparel Group, keeps his company’s sleepwear category growing. “Licensing is the lifeblood of the kids’ business,” Diablo says. “Kids have an incredible amount of media exposure today... They’re very well connected and share information rapidly, which created the demand for high-exposure licenses.” Presently, sleepwear makes up approximately 15 percent of SGI Apparel Group’s total sales. “[Sleepwear] is very important to our company because of the retail and licensor relationships that are developed,” Diablo notes. “In addition, it created added value to the retailer because of the expanded product categories that The SG Companies now offer to the retail community.” He adds that movie and evergreen licenses, such as Lego, remain popular, though the fashion may be evolving. “There are more fabrications that are acceptable and fashionable for kids’ sleepwear,” he says. “Exciting graphics and colors are also creating fresh approaches to the business.” Diablo notes sleepwear is a profitable category for retailers as it’s an essential and allows children to express themselves. “It’s part of every kids’ wardrobe, and [is] usually fun. And it’s the part that doesn’t get criticized by their peers,” he adds. As for the future of the children’s sleepwear industry, Diablo sees it remaining pretty steady. “We see it staying similar to the last several years, whereby key licensees, private label and important brands will continue to share the retail department space.” ( & ' ) C 7 H 9 > ; 7 H D I > 7M I $ 9 E C 3 1
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What Exactly Are the CPSC Regulations for Kids’ Sleepwear? Breaking down the rules that keep our kids safe. IN 1968, THE government issued a document discussing a slew of children’s burn injuries and deaths associated with sleepwear. At that time, all clothing only had to meet the requirements of the 1953 Flammable Fabric Act. In this general wearing standard, a tiny flame is held under fabric placed at a 45-degree angle. If it doesn’t catch fire within one second, or if the flame does not spread more than a 4-inch Sara’s Prints distance in five seconds, this product passes the standard. “Newspaper will ignite in one second, but will take five or six seconds to burn,” says Gordon Damant, a flammability expert for more than 40 years. This easy-to-pass test, and the number of children burned while donning sleepwear, sparked a movement for change, and in 1972 the Children’s Sleepwear Regulations were published under the newly formed Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC). Today, the act requires children’s sleepwear, from sizes 9 months to 14, to be flame resistant and selfextinguishable, tested by a gas flame held at the bottom of five pieces of vertical fabric in a metal holder for three seconds. If the char length is more than 7 inches, the fabric fails the test. Robin Foster, a burn injury attorney of Foster Law Firm in Greenville, SC, says this test is more realistic: “If things catch on fire, and people are awake, they’re going to be in an upright position.” There have only been slight modifications to the basic rules in the last four decades: the expansion of the sizes from 0 to 6X to include 7 to 14 in 1974, and then the size range from 0 to 8 months taken out of the equation a little more than a decade ago. The biggest change, however, came with the tightfitting rule during this same period, which notes that close-fitting sleepwear does not need to be flame resistant or self-extinguishable, but must fit specified dimensions for each age and not have any trim or fabric that tapers from legs or arms. “If they claim that the garment is tight fitting, there has to be a warning label on clothing indicating it does not comply with children’s sleepwear standard and caution should be exercised,” Damant adds. He describes the tight-fitting standards as a “can of worms,” since “close fitting on one child may not be as tight fitting on another child.” And while a tight fit does help protect a child from burns, it’s the size the parents purchase that really matters. “A lot of parents buy sleepwear without really thinking about the flammability requirements, and they will deliberately buy their sleepwear large,” Damant says. Alan Steber, VP of S.I.T. Inc., parent company of sleepwear brands Sara’s Prints and Up Past 8, says he doesn’t mind the requirements if it keeps kids safe. “Having two children of my own I’m thrilled with the CPSC and that the clothes my children wear everyday are safer from them,” he says. The regulations, however, do affect the brands’ styles. “We have to constantly limit [designers] in the scope of what we do to make sure that it complies with the flammability regulations.” But while children may be protected in their sleepwear, the General Wearing Test for everyday apparel doesn’t provide this same peace of mind. “The general sleepwear standard over the years has been an effective standard because the statistics relating to sleepwear incidents have come down significantly,” Damant says, adding 4,000 to 5,000 people are still burned every year while wearing general wearing apparel. In fact, he believes that applying the Children’s Sleepwear Regulations to everyday clothing, especially for children and the elderly, would be safer. But, as Foster notes, it’s going to take a movement to make this change. “The children’s sleepwear test is a more realistic test to see how the fabrics we wear everyday react to [fire],” he notes. “But we’re going to have to go to Congress to get something done with these general wearing standards.”
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2/19/13 9:40:23 AM
BEHIND THE SEAMS
JAMARI INTERNATIONAL PRESIDENT JARED LEVINE CHATS ABOUT WHAT IT TAKES TO SUCCEED IN THE FAST PACED LUXURY KIDS’ MARKET. BY JENNIFER CATTAUI
THERE'S NO DENYING that today it’s a fast fashion market, and Jared Levine, president of Jamari International’s childrenswear showroom, headquartered in New York City, can certainly attest to that. “We start our sales for Fall ’13 in mid-November and some brands close in early January,” he confirms. Moving quickly is all about improving deliveries, Levine says: “In the U.S. market in particular, to get the best sell-through, the brands have to be in the stores first. To be in the stores first, we need to deliver first; to deliver first, we have to produce first, and so on..." The first-to-market strategy seems to be working for Jamari, a family-run business that was started by his parents in 1977 with a single line—Levine now has many premium brands under his roof and notes growth has been strong and steady. But, he realizes short sales windows do come at a cost. With hot tickets like Young Versace, Stella McCartney Kids, Hugo Boss, Scotch Shrunk, Petit Bateau, Il Gufo, Little Marc Jacobs, and most recently Miss Grant and Mackage, lining the walls, demand isn’t the problem—but can buyers back up their buying plans enough to meet these early deadlines? “I’m sure that we miss some people,” Levine notes, “but I’d rather miss a few to be able to ensure the timely and complete delivery for the customers who are able to make it in when the goods are available.” With these early sales, Fall ’13 begins to arrive at retailers’ doors mid-June, making back-to-school coincide with the start of summer vacation. The fast-fashion state of mind that exists in the women’s market has affected his brands, Levine says, noting that Marc by Marc Jacobs and Scotch & Soda added pre-collections with even more abbreviated selling windows. “What FROM FENDI'S FALL '13 GIRLS' CHILDRENSWEAR COLLECTION.
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used to be two collections a year has become \ekh"È ^[ WZZi$ J^_i cWa[i W bej e\ i[di[ m_j^ today’s consumer who is expecting to see something new every time he or she enters a store or l_i_jiWm[Xi_j[$ Levine and his “amazing” 16 person team (“I can’t stress enough how great they all are,” ^[ WZZi" meha ^WhZ je ikffehj j^[ c_Z# je high-tier boutiques and department store business, as well as protect the brand image of the bknkho bWX[bi j^Wj j^[o h[fh[i[dj$ ÇM[ Ze dej meham_j^Z_iYekdjijeh[iehZ_iYekdjm[Xi_j[i$ Fkjj_d] bknkho a_ZiÊ Yebb[Yj_edi ed W iWb[ i_j[ could hurt a brand's image, and we’re careful to dejb[jj^Wj^Wff[d"È^[iWoi$ J^[ 7c[h_YWd cWha[j _i ceh[ fh_Y[ YediY_eki" YecfWh[Z m_j^ _ji ;khef[Wd Yekdj[hparts says Levine, who focuses most on the fh_Y[#lWbk[hWj_e$Ç?\j^[Ykijec[h\[[bij^Wjj^[ price-value ratio is correct for their store, there is no price limit to what people will spend,” he says, noting that many of his brands, including IYejY^I^hkdaWdZF[j_j8Wj[Wk"Wh[Wjj^[iWc[ fh_Y[fe_djWiZec[ij_YXhWdZi$
M^[d [dj[h_d] j^[ lWij K$I$ cWha[j" B[l_d[ says many of the foreign brands expect all of j^[_hfheXb[ciiebl[Z$ÇOek^Wl[je[nfbW_dje ikffb_[hi j^Wj m^_b[ j^[ K$I$ _i W X_] Yekdjho" QY^_bZh[dÊi bknkho ]eeZiS _i dej W ^k][ cWha[j ic[dj"WdZj^[oYWdÊjjkhdjej^[K$I$jeiWl[ them from what is happening in Italy, Greece, IfW_d WdZ Fehjk]Wb$ J^[o YWd Ze W d_Y[" X_] Xki_d[ii^[h[Xkjj^[oYWddejikijW_dj^[a_dZ e\ Z_ijh_Xkj_ed j^[o ^Wl[ _d ;khef["È ^[ iWoi$ M^[h[Wi cedeXhWdZ ijeh[i Wh[ W X_] jh[dZ _d ;khef["B[l_d[dej[i^[^WidÊji[[dj^WjceZ[b Wi ikYY[ii\kb _d j^[ K$I$ Ç7c[h_YWdi b_a[ lWh_ety,” he says, but adds that stores doing deeper buys in fewer brands, within his customer base, seem to be turning a lot of product, due to the \kbb[hijehoj^WjWceh[Yecfb[j[b_d[W\\ehZi$ “Customers end up buying more pieces,” Levine ik]][iji$ Levine says the difference in taste between K$I$ WdZ ;khef[Wd Y^_bZh[dim[Wh mWi ceij WffWh[djedWh[Y[djXko_d]jh_fje;khef[^[ goes eight to nine times a year) when he spotted a father and son in Galeries Lafayette in Paris: ÇJ^[ Xeo ^Wi h[Z fWdji" W f_da Y^[Ya i^_hj" W pullover sweater with buttons down the sleeve WdZWfk\\[h`WYa[j$È 8kj" j^[ cWha[j ic[dj m_j^ W f[dY^Wdj \eh XhWdZ bWX[bi _i Wb_l[ WdZ m[bb _d j^[ K$I$" evidenced by the gaggle of luxury brands div_d]_djej^[a_ZiÊcWha[j$ÇDej^_d]_ih[Y[ii_ed proof,” he notes, “but there is always a little Yki^_ed_dj^[jefb[l[be\j^[Xki_d[ii$J^[h[ are super rich who will always be super rich and m_bbWbmWoiif[dZ$È J^Wj X[_d] iW_Z" _j ceij Y[hjW_dbo _i dej Wd easy business, and Levine notes that for the brands, distributors, showrooms and retailers, _jÊi ikhl_lWb e\ j^[ \_jj[ij$ ÇJ^[h[Êi ij_bb iec[ i^Wa_d]ekjjeZe"m_j^Wbbe\j^[i[XhWdZiWdZ dej[dek]^Zeehi"È^[dej[i$<ehj^[h[jW_b[hi" ikYY[ii _i Wbb WXekj i[hl_Y[$ ÇJ^[ ijeh[i j^Wj are still doing things—hosting fashion shows in the store, parties and events—these stores are ]hem_d]$ J^[o WbmWoi mWdj d[m c[hY^WdZ_i[ on the floor because they always want the cusjec[hYec_d]XWYa$È And his business is more demanding as well, m_j^i[hl_Y[X[_d]fWhWcekdj$Adem_d]if[[Z jecWha[j_iYhkY_Wb1B[l_d[WdZ^_ij[Wcf_Ya" fWYaWdZjkhdWhekdZehZ[hi_d(*je*.^ekhi$ J^[oÊh[Wbiej[WY^_d]j^[_hh[jW_b[hiiWb[i\beeh associates the finer points of the garments over Iaof[ WdZ Z_ijh_Xkj_d] f^eje]hWf^o \eh j^[
A FALL LOOK BY ROBERTO CAVALLI.
retailers to leverage, including approved celeb children shots (not surprisingly his lines are a X_]^_jm_j^>ebbomeeZ$Edj^[ej^[hi_Z[e\j^[ [gkWj_ed" ^[Êi meha_d] Ybei[bo m_j^ j^[ cWdkfacturers, suggesting small changes, requesting colors and trying to guide them to success in the K$I$cWha[j$Ç?Wiaj^[cjecWa['&Y^Wd][ije get two,” he laughs, but notes that many of his XhWdZim_bbjW_beh]Whc[djif[h^_i\[[ZXWYa$ Ed[ j^_d] ^[ Ze[i dej Ze _i a[[f ijeYa" WdZ dej[i j^Wj _j YWd h[ikbj _d beij effehjkd_jo$ Ç? had a customer this morning who wants to h[ehZ[h f_[Y[i WdZ ? ZedÊj a[[f ijeYa ie _jÊi _cfeii_Xb[$I^[c_ii[ZekjedWZZ_j_edWbiWb[i because she didn’t order ahead, and I missed ekj\ehdej^ebZ_d]ijeYa$È Levine, who started at the family-owned i^emheeciehj_d]^Wd][hi"j^[df_Ya_d]"fWYaing shipping, pricing and labeling (“I still do all j^Wjijk\\"È^[bWk]^iad[m\hecj^[X_dd_d] j^Wj j^_i mekbZ X[ ^_i YWh[[h$ Ç?jÊi [nY_j_d]Æ every season we get new collections and new fheZkYji WdZ ijWhj \hec iYhWjY^$ @kij X[YWki[ a brand was great last season doesn’t guarantee _j \eh j^[ d[nj$ ?\ m[ beij Ykijec[hi m[ ^Wl[ W Y^WdY[jehW_dj^[c$M[^Wl[Wdeffehjkd_jo je_dYh[Wi[WdZ_cfhel[[l[hoi[Wied$È
FENDI FALL '13 BOYS' WEAR.
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Q & A
To a Tea
Tea Collection’s Emily Meyer and Leigh Rawdon talk about building their brand around cultural appreciation and how they’ve upped the ante for vendor-client relationships.
BY J ENNIFER CAT TAUI THE EMPIRE HOTEL’S dimly lit second floor lounge was punctuated by a hushed din of voices chatting about their businesses, experiences and, of course, the host. If you didn’t know any better, you’d mistake j^_i]hekfe\.&ceijbomec[d\ehebZ\h_[dZiWjWm[bb#Wjj[dZ[ZYbWii reunion. But the common thread was not an alma mater, but rather a brand, Tea Collection, and the guests, retailers whose shops dotted the country. Each was as eager to see the next collection as to share their Yecced[nf[h_[dY[iWiCW_dIjh[[jXh_Ya#WdZ#cehjWhijeh[i$J^_i\Wc# _boe\J[WZ[lej[[i_i`kijm^WjcWa[iXhWdZYe#\ekdZ[hiB[_]^HWmZed 9;EWdZ;c_boC[o[hY^_[\Yh[Wj_l[e\\_Y[hkdWXWi^[ZbofhekZ$?j seems that they started out creating a brand but ended up creating a community. The two founders met through their husbands, who attended busi# ness school together. Rawdon, also in business school, was intent on starting a business and frequently lunched with Meyer, where the con# versation would naturally turn into brainstorming a lifestyle brand that mWiij[[f[Z_d_dj[hdWj_edWbf[hif[Yj_l[$Ç7i?jWba[ZWXekjJ[W"B[_]^ listened—always thinking about strategy and culture,” Meyer says. In \Wbb(&&("j^[ocWZ[j^[_h\_hijYebb[Yj_edÆWicWbb]hekf_d]e\im[Wj[hi and blankets that evoked a casual luxury, manufactured through Meyer’s connection at her former post at Esprit. “We were trying to make some# thing gift givers would love and parents would cherish but could be worn with Gap jeans,” she notes. Straight out of the gate at a San Francisco gift show, they got traction in the market. “We tripled our orders in three ZWoi"ÈC[o[hh[YWbbi$ÇH_]^jW\j[hj^WjB[_]^`kcf[ZedXeWhZ\kbbj_c[$È Soon after, so did Barneys New York and Takashimaya, confirming to them that they were on track to make a mark on the market. With each season, they bring their travels back home, in the shape of fashionable separates, woven with stories of faraway lands, an offering to the next generation of global citizens. “Warmth, openness, curios# ity, and passion to learn about other places infuses our culture at Tea,” Rawdon says. The atmosphere at their retailers’ workshops is consistent with their company culture, and for the founders, this past workshop in New York was both emotional and groundbreaking. Although they have had six pre#
vious retailer workshops where they invited all of their retail buyers to mingle, learn and get a first look at the new collection, this was their first held in New York City and their debut fashion show. Workshop classes ifWdd[ZikX`[Yjib_a[ef[d#je#XkoWdZcWhaZemdijhWjoWdZXh[Waekj sessions grappled with marketing techniques and team building. M[m[h[WXb[jei_jZemdm_j^B[_]^WdZ;c_boWdZb[WhdWX_jceh[ WXekjj^[_h`ekhd[oel[hj^[fWij''o[Whii_dY[J[W9ebb[Yj_edbWkdY^[Z and how they’re creating an experience not only for their customers, but for their employees and retailers. What excited you about this opportunity—starting a business in the children’s market? LEIGH My real excitement came around the brand of Tea and Emily’s vision of bringing cultures from all over the world into lives and homes of families. At the time, I was traveling a ton and could see how powerful and important it was to experience and to immerse myself into another culture. The idea that we could bring this experience to families was really powerful and inspiring for me. I understand your design team travels to a new international destination every season. Did you do that right from the beginning? EMILY In the beginning the collection was based on places we had already been. I was—and am—such a fan of Asian aesthetics. Japan and China were the inspirations for the first collection. LEIGH As the company grew, we were able to send the design team over# seas to have new experiences. These design trips are core to who we are today. Our design team started to travel six or seven years ago for our West Africa collection. That was our first real adventure. We partner with the Global Fund for Children, and on that first trip to West Africa the team visited one of the GFC grant recipients—and was inspired by the work the organization is doing to change the world for children. During the trips, the design team posts to a private Facebook group page for our team, allowing us to see this magical destination though their eyes. When they return, they present a slideshow and video to the rest of the team and serve food, snacks and tea. It’s a three dimensional
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experience for the entire company. Since not everyone gets to go on these seasonal trips, but travel is such a core value, we give everyone in the company a travel allowance to travel internationally. They earn it every year and can save it up over time. The allowance gives them the ability to go wherever they want to go—China, Paris, Ireland, South America. It makes the trip a little more manageable. We announced at our workshop in August that the travel benefit is extended to the owners of our destination stores as well—the boutiques who host our store-within-stores that sell Tea across the country. So any destination storeowner who is with us during this calendar year 2013 will get an allowance to travel the world. We recognized our two top stores at the last workshop with a beautiful piece of luggage so I know that they are very excited to get on the road. The workshops are really inspiring—it was exciting to be part of that. How long have you been offering educational seminars and what has that meant to your retailers? LEIGH That was our seventh workshop and we do it two times per year. We believed that if a store could merchandise our product together as our designers and merchants have planned it, each piece would help sell others. We decided it was better to show retailers how we envisioned it. We had a little extra space so we built store sets and hung photos and took a bunch of pictures. We showed it to stores and realized it was powerful to see it like this—we thought instead of going to a traditional trade show maybe they’d come to us. Every time we make little changes. We listen to where their issues are and their concerns. We had little roundtables at the beginning and you just listen and you learn, “This is what they’re worrying about.” You hear
a lot of discussion about margin, and markdown and open to buy and so we introduced those topics at the following workshop or there’s discussion about staffing and hiring and training your sales team so we had a session on that. We just listen to what’s on people’s minds, what’s worrying them, what keeps them up at night—and then find the expertise. If we have it in-house like we do for social media, we can offer a seminar with someone on our staff, and if it’s something like visual merchandising we might bring in a consultant. From the very beginning Emily and I wanted to work with retailers in a more strategic and collaborative way. We’ve always understood that it was important for the retailers to partner so they could represent the brand. Also, of course, we could learn a lot from them—it’s definitely a two-way street. These workshops have been a way we could get together, have dinner, have coffee, talk and really learn from each other. It’s not a surprise but it is overwhelming how powerful it was for the retailers to connect with each other. They have made lifelong friendships that are far beyond a business conference type of relationship. I’ve been blown away by how many people come back. I thought people would come once and then maybe again a few years later to get a refresher, but we have store owners who come to six out of seven workshops. Tell me about growth—when did you realize you were hitting a mark? LEIGH From the beginning: We’ve seen tremendous year on year growth since we started. We’ve been on Inc. magazine’s fastest growing private companies list for the last six years. We’re always all about learning and always improving—we’re constantly living in the moment. If we hear that they’re asking for swim and we don’t have swim—we design swimwear. We need freshness or new-
Offspring 1385 Broadway, Suite 1800 NY, NY 10018 212-279-4150 Mark Zelen Northeast Bill & Sandie Ellsworth 781-326-3999 Southeast Paul Daubney 404-577-6840 Caribbean/Latin America/ South Florida Rolando & Ana Hidalgo 305-266-8745 West Coast Teresa Stephen & Krystal Crooymans 866-723-KIDS Midwest Richard Finkelstein & Al Zaiff 800-935-0236 Texas/Southwest Annette Cardona-Stein 214-637-4446 International Nathan A. Mamiye 212-216-6008 See us at The Children’s Club, NYC, Mar. 10th-12th
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ness. We’re constantly learning and adapting. We are so far from saying that we’ve got it all figured out. How do you keep such an agile environment? LEIGH It’s not easy. Just when you feel like it’s going to be easier, you find that there’s something else to be done. It requires adaptability. There’s a lot of job description evolution—there are new challenges all the time as we grow. So you sell “international” in the U.S.—what is your global presence like? LEIGH There are individual retailers around the world that carry Tea. We have great distributor relationships in Canada and Korea and we are very interested in exploring relationships in other countries. And we are sold in England, various boutiques sprinkled around the E.U., Asia, Puerto Rico and South America—mostly because retailers have come to us in a one-off capacity rather than a matter of strategy. We do have markets that we are interested in—we’re exhibiting at Playtime Tokyo so we see some opportunity in Japan—and then certainly in the E.U. Tell me your favorite pieces from the Fall ’13 collection— what excites you about it? EMILY Boys’ graphic tees are always fantastic and I love our spin on it this time with the all-over print on the graphic tee. The sweatshirt with the dragon face on the hood is amazing. We are really expanding our sweaters this fall so we’ll have a pronounced sweater message, layered with great print and pattern underneath it. Also in September we have an incredible baby and layette assortment. We’re bringing a lot more color and vitality to baby-friendly styles. For holiday we have some exquisite dresses that really tie the whole story together with prints, color and styling. We’re also really excited to introduce another little capsule at the end of the season that is brilliant. It was just introduced at the market in January—it’s our fifth delivery of the season. Fast Company gave you a commendation for your excellent use of social media. What excites you about social networks? EMILY Facebook’s fantastic. Facebook has been transformative for us. It has moved us from a world where we would develop an assortment and put it out there and didn’t actually talk to a mom to enabling a two-way conversation. We’re able to share thoughts, get behind the scenes, preview a new collection, have a little contest. It’s been fun to engage with the customers one-on-one. The brand is bigger than the two of us—it’s really owned by this community. We’re amazed how engaged they are. We also love Pinterest. It’s visual, emotional, inspirational and really fun. How are you feeling about the year ahead? EMILY I’m stoked. We had a great 2012, and we have had an amazing response from retailers about the 2013 collections. We’re so excited about our opportunity for growth. We have lots of great things coming up: the products in our collections and new ways to engage the customer. We couldn’t be more excited. Lastly, I have to know—what’s your favorite tea? EMILY I love Earl Grey but Green Tea from Taiwan is my favorite right now. LEIGH Chamomile for me.
Tea Collection’s next retailer workshop will be held August 2-3, 2013. For more information, visit www.TeaShowroom.com/WorkShop.
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GET INVOLVED Independent retailers need to enhance the in-store experience for today’s tech-savvy shoppers. by Lyndsay McGregor
WHILE SOCIAL MEDIA was a dominant theme during the Main Street Retailing Forum at the National Retail Federation’s annual convention in January, the value of face-toface contact at a brick-and-mortar store can’t be underestimated. According to a national poll conducted late last year by Gfk Roper in Yed`kdYj_edm_j^IWf_[djD_jhe"-&f[hY[dje\ Americans agree that retailers could do more
to enhance in-store shopping experiences. So it seems going local may be the most modern strategy of all, with many consumers returning to their neighborhood stores in search of a one-on-one connection that can’t be found in the virtual world of online retail. Developing strong local ties within their respective communities has made the following savvy shopkeepers a shoe-in for success.
Pomme, Brooklyn, NY Ria Browne takes as much pride in her community as she does in Pomme, the (",&&#igkWh[#\eeja_ZiÊi^efi^[jeeael[h _d(&''$Ç?jÊidejd[Y[iiWh_boWXekjfki^_d] product: it’s a place where likeminded families can be together,” she says. The former owners—two French magazine writers—
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opened the space with the inclination to offer haircuts and classes, but “they didn’t have the perseverance and got really burned ekj$?ÊcWbeYWbh[i_Z[djÆ?b_l[_d8heeabod >[_]^jiÆiecofWhjd[hWdZ?WYgk_h[Zj^[ business and focused on the services and _cfhel_d]j^[c[hY^WdZ_i["È8hemd["W\ehc[hYedikbjWdj\ehAWj[IfWZ[WdZ7dZh 8WbWpiFhef[hj_[i"iWoi$ If[Y_\_YWbbo"Fecc[[cXeZ_[iWl_i_ede\W \Wc_bo#eh_[djWj[ZYecckd_jo"e\\[h_d]WYWh[fully selected roster of activities such as photo i^eeji"mehai^efi"YbWii[i"^W_hYkjiWdZ]Wc[ d_]^ji$Ç?jÊiWd_Y[[nYki[je][ja_Zije][j^[h"È i^[iWoi$FbWoj_c[Wi_Z["j^[fh_Y[iWh[Wdej^[hfkbb$ÇM[Ze^Wl[hkbWhij^WjYec[_dWdZ i^ef\heckiedWi[WiedWbXWi_i"Xkjj^[ej^[h cWha[jj^Wj?h[Wbbobel["X[YWki[coa_ZiWh[ ,WdZ-"_ij^[oekd][hY^_bZm^eYec[i_dje Xkoiec[j^_d]m_j^j^[_hemdced[oehje XkoWX_hj^ZWo]_\j$?h[WbbocWa[Wfe_dje\ having affordable things that they can buy m_j^j^[_hemdfeYa[jced[o$?mWdjFecc[ jeX[ed[e\j^ei[fbWY[ij^Wjf[efb[h[c[cX[h\hecj^[_hY^_bZ^eeZ"Èi^[iWoi"dej_d] that hardly anything in her store is priced WXel['(+$ IjWdZekjf_Yai_dYbkZ[b_\[#i_p[ZkYaiWdZ Xkdd_[ij^WjcWa[j^[Yeeb[ijd_]^jb_]^ji edj^[XbeYa1i_baiYh[[d[Z]h[[j_d]YWhZiXo =ebZJ[[j^8heeabod1WdZYbWii_Ydkhi[ho \khd_jkh[XoE[k\$9bej^_d]#m_i[j^[i[b[Yj_ede\\[hibWX[biikY^WiIj[bbWCY9Whjd[o A_Zi"7jikoe[j7a_aeWdZeh]Wd_YZkZiXo Dk_$ÇF[efb[Yec[jec[\eh^ec[Z[i_]d when they’re designing a nursery for the first j_c["ehjhWdi_j_ed_d]Wheec\hecWdkhi[ho jeWY^_bZh[dÊiheec$7dZj^[oYec[jec[\eh
gifts because they want to ]_l[iec[j^_d]if[Y_Wb$Co Ykijec[hiWffh[Y_WjeeZ Z[i_]dWdZiec[j^_d]l[ho kd_gk["Èi^[iWoi"WZZ_d]" Ç?bel[je\_dZj^_d]ij^Wj you wouldn’t find at other Y^_bZh[dim[Whijeh[i$È And it’s not just the Yecckd_joFecc[YWj[hi je$Ç8[\eh[9^h_ijcWim[ hosted pop-up shops for 9ehWbJkiaWdZB_jjb[ 7k]]_[$CoXkZ][jZe[idÊj Wbbemc[jeXkoWd[dj_h[ Yebb[Yj_ed$M^[d[l[h?hkd into that difficulty with WZ[i_]d[h"?e\\[hjeZeW fef#kfi^ef"Èi^[iWoi$
THE LUXE TOUCH
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Serendipity, Dublin, Ireland J^[X[d[\_jie\]e_d]ieY_WbcWoX[j^[d[m XbWYa_dj[hcie\ijhWjo"Xkjj^WjÊidejjeiWo h[jW_b[hii^ekbZidkXj^[f[hiedWbjekY^Yecfb[j[bo$?d\WYj";ccW9ebb[Whoe\I[h[dZ_f_jo _d:kXb_d"?h[bWdZ"_iedW\_hijdWc[XWi_im_j^ ceije\^[hYkijec[hi$Ç?e\j[di[dZWj[nj c[iiW][ehWd[#cW_bj[bb_d]j^[cm^WjÊiYec_d]_dWdZe\\[h_d]Wfh[l_[mehWZ_iYekdj"È i^[iWoi$ I_dY[ef[d_d]^[h\_hijbeYWj_ed[_]^jo[Whi W]ei^[ef[d[ZWi[YedZ_d(&''?h[bWdZ^Wi \ekdZ_ji[b\_dj^[c_Zije\W\_dWdY_WbYh_i_i" m_j^cWdoijeh[\hedji]e_d]ekje\Xki_d[ii WdZj^ekiWdZie\f[efb[[c_]hWj_d]"Xkj I[h[dZ_f_joademi_jid_Y^[$Ç7Xekj_gk[b_a[ this is protected in a way, but we do cover [l[hofh_Y[fe_djdem$M[^Wl_\ji\hecÐ' jeÐ'&&$M[Êl[WZWfj[Z"Xkjf[efb[ij_bbmWdj to buy a nice gift to celebrate the birth of a XWXo$J^Wjm_bbYedj_dk["È9ebb[WhoiWoi"WZZ_d]j^Wjj^[XWXo]_\jcWha[j_iijhed]$Ç?][j bejie\f[efb[Xko_d][l[hoj^_d]\hecm^eb[ ekj\_jijeXWXo]heijejeoi$J^[dm[^Wl[ekh hkbWhYkijec[him^eXko\ehj^[_hemdY^_bZh[d$Iec[f[efb[XkoWYekfb[e\a[of_[Y[i at the start of the season and other people buy j^hek]^ekjj^[i[Wied$È ;iY^[m_d]jWa[Zemdie\WZkbjijob[i_d \Wlehe\Y^_bZh[d#edbob_d[i"9ebb[WhoijeYai ^[hijeh[im_j^j^[b_a[ie\9Wj_c_d_"A[dpe" FWcfeb_dW">Wjb[o"7XiehXWWdZ:WhYo8hemd$ ÇM[Êh[ademd\eh]eeZgkWb_joYbWii_YYbej^[i \ehY^_bZh[d$M[Êh[dejXe^eehkhXWd"Èi^[ dej[i$Ç?mekbZdÊjijWdZX[^_dZiec[j^_d] _\j^[gkWb_jomWidÊj]e_d]jebWij$7beje\ Ybej^_d]]e[iZemdj^hek]^j^[m^eb[\Wc_bo$ F[efb[i[[j^[lWbk[_dXko_d]j^[a[of_[Y[i$È 7im[bbWiYkhWj_d]^[hc_nWYYehZ_d]jem^Wj i^[ademi^[hYkijec[him_bbb_a[e\j[dj_c[i i^[ehZ[hi_j[cim_j^Wif[Y_\_YhkbWh_d ( & ' ) C 7 H 9 > ; 7 H D I > 7M I $ 9 E C 4 1
2/18/13 10:44 AM
mind) she only carries one of every size. “If you’re buying into that idea of a boutique, you don’t want to see every other child wearing your kid’s clothes,” she says.
Olive Loves Alfie, London, England Based in London’s trendy Stoke Newington nabe, family lifestyle store Olive Loves Alfie offers its clientele equal measures of kitsch, vintage style and classic design. “We have a great local neighborhood vibe so we get to know our customers really well. We run events that take the commerciality out of celebrations and put the community back in,” shares owner Ashlyn Gibson. “At Christmas we turned our shop window into a shadow puppet theater, put old school chairs out on the pavement, served up popcorn to the kids and cooked mulled wine on a camping stove outside our store.” After 20 years in fashion (ultimately as Head of Creative for Red or Dead footwear) and the birth of her daughter, Olive, Gibson decided to take a step back from the frantic frontline and opened the boutique in 2006. The name comes from when Olive wrote a birthday card to her best friend, Alfie, and signed it “Olive loves Alfie.” Gibson’s
pick their favorite pieces and mix with high street pieces,” she says. The carefully selected array of kids’ clothes (Bobo Choses, Mini Rodini and Kidscase, to name a few) aims to challenge the traditional vision of gender stereotyping by embracing children’s individuality with contemporary pieces: She doesn’t buy mass-produced or hyped products, and she doesn’t support the tradition of girls wearing pink and boys wearing blue. “The shop is the place where it all comes together and it’s mostly surprisingly calm. Behind the scenes things are quite honestly much more frantic,” Gibson says, mentioning the Olive Loves Alfie signature collection and calling the launch of the line “the icing on the cake.” No stranger to the online world, Gibson connects with her customers through her blog and invites them to contribute to her Pinterest boards. “Lots of things Olive Loves Alfie inspire me that I don’t talk about on our website so I wanted to start a blog where vision puts together design-led products that I can paste things [my customers] might can become “modern heirlooms for children find interesting, too. We always have lots of in today’s all-too-disposable world.” “Some news, too, so I thought it was about time I customers only shop with us and can’t wait kept [customers] up-to-date with everything to see what is new each season; others cherry j^WjÊi^Wff[d_d]^[h["Èi^[iWoi$
Photography: Gretchen Easton
2/18/13 10:44 AM
THE BABY ISSUE APRIL/MAY ISSUE HIGHLIGHTS Infant and Toddler Fashion Trends Highlighting the trends and styles for fashion’s littlest customers.
Traditional Clothing Market Peter Pan collars, smocking and artisanal detailing earmark the timeless traditional clothing market.
View on Peru We put the spotlight on Peru, known for its soft Pima cottons and Alpaca knits, a top player in the infant/toddler clothing market.
Trade Show Planner, May-December Now that Fall ’13 buying is behind us, it’s time to move on to Spring ’14. We take you inside all the shows you should know.
So much more… Inspirational, informative and insightful, Earnshaw’s magazine has been the go-to resource for children’s apparel retailers for the past 96 years.
Advertise in Earnshaw’s and place your brand message in front of 15,000 childrenswear buyers and professionals. Brand impression is everything today, and we can make sure your message remains top of mind within the industry with buyers looking to fill store shelves.
Space reservations: 4/08/13 Materials due: 4/15/13 PHOTOGRAPH BY CLEO SULLIVAN
Bonus distribution All Baby & Child Educational Conference, Chicago Gift Market, Regional Trade Shows and NYC showrooms.
er_03_13_ baby.promo_01.indd 43
Contact: Noelle Heffernan (646) 278-1531 email@example.com for advertising rates, sponsorships and custom publication opportunities.
2/18/13 1:42 PM
HOT , DAM
EARNSHAW’S OPENS THE trendwatching season by visiting the first of the top European kid’s wear shows, Kleine Fabriek in Amsterdam, the Netherlands. J^[',j^[Z_j_ede\j^[i^em"^[bZ @WdkWho')je'*"mWiWl_XhWdj"Xkitling show that debuted many of the top European childrenswear Fall/Winj[hÊ')Yebb[Yj_edi$7bj^ek]^[Yedec_Y conditions in Europe remain challeng-
ing, the show’s ambience was upbeat and designs looked fresh and inviting. “We all need to work a bit harder and be more inventive, to break the cycle,” says a Kleine Fabriek spokesperson. “And meanwhile, a whole new generation of brands and retailers has popped up that doesn’t know it any other way.” A carefully selected mix of key Dutch companies and international brands were presented in the spacious
THE FALL/WINTER CHILDRENSWEAR COLLECTIONS AT KLEINE FABRIEK WOULD MAKE ANYONE WANT TO GO DUTCH. BY CLAIRE DEL REY
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2/18/13 2:03 PM
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2/18/13 2:04 PM
Blu Pony Vintage dress worn over Wheat sweater, Havoc Denim faux fur vest, Mini a Ture tights with mustard Antipasti sock worn over top, Anais and I boots, Oeuf owl mask, stylist's own gloves.
2/22/13 9:35 AM
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From left: Anais and I dress, pom pom tights and boots, Mini a Ture check shirt, Oeuf crown; Appaman cable knit sweater, Peas and Queues sweatpants, Oeuf gloves, hat and crown; Mini a Ture dress, Anais and I striped sweater and boots, Mini a Ture tights, Oeuf owl mask; Mini a Ture dress, skirt and tights, Kensie Girl faux fur vest; Il Gufo sweatshirt, Wheat Fair Isle sweatpants; Anais and I checkered top, Wheat gray sweatpants, vintage boots. 48
2/22/13 9:35 AM
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From left: Anais and I striped sweater, Deux par Deux jeans, Le Big scarf, Oeuf crown; Wheat cardigan worn over Kenzo top, Mini a Ture shorts. Opposite page: Wheat sweater, Mini a Ture skirt, Oeuf mittens.
2/22/13 9:36 AM
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Anais and I hooded vest, sweatpants and boots, Wheat plaid button down shirt, Oeuf fox tail; Anais and I sweatshirt and plaid shirt, Wheat pants, vintage boots. 53
2/22/13 9:37 AM
Anais and I dress and boots, Kensie Girl sweater, Antipasti socks worn over Hue tights, Oeuf flag banner. Opposite page: Mini a Ture striped T-shirt, Peas and Queues skirt. 54
2/22/13 9:37 AM
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Deux par Deux jumper, Peas and Queues striped shirt, Oeuf mittens and arm warmers Peace of Cake hat, TicTacToe tights, Anais and I boots. Style director: Michel Onofrio, Hair and Makeup: Maria Seccia for Mariaseccia.com, Props and Headpieces: Alexandra Egan 57
2/22/13 9:38 AM
MARKET DATES & EVENTS
Dallas KidsWorld Market ('&&Ij[ccedi<h[[mWo Dallas, TX ('*-**#-*** www.dallasmarketcenter.com
Playtime New York St. John’s Center Studios New York, NY ('(+,)#-)&' www.playtimenewyork.com
ENK Children’s Club Javits Center New York, NY ('(-+/#.&++ www.enkshows.com
The Chicago Market The Merchandise Mart Chicago, IL )'(+(-#-+,' www.shopchicagomarket.com
LA Kids Market California Market Center Los Angeles, CA ('),)&#),&& www.californiamarketcenter.com
KIDShow Miami Miami Airport Convention Center Miami, FL /&.()(#&.,www.kidshow.cc
Northern California Show Embassy Suites San Francisco, CA ('),)&#),&& www.kidson6.com
Dallas KidsWorld Market Dallas Market Center Dallas, TX ('*-**#-*** www.dallasmarketcenter.com
Kids Market NYC )*M))hZIjh[[j New York, NY www.nykidsmarket.net
North Branch Kids Show North Branch Kids Building Chicago, IL www.northbranchkids.com
Kidz at Stylemax Merchandise Mart Chicago, IL )'(+(-#--+/ www.kidzatstylemax.com
SwimShow '/&'9edl[dj_ed9[dj[h:h_l[ Miami Beach, FL )&++/,#-../ www.swimshow.com
ENK Children’s Club F_[h/* New York, NY ('(-+/#.&++ www.enkshows.com
LA Kids Market California Market Center Los Angeles, CA ('),)&#),&& www.californiamarketcenter.com
The Chicago Market Merchandise Mart Chicago, IL )'(+(-#-+,' www.shopchicagomarket.com Atlanta Apparel Market AmericasMart Atlanta, GA *&*((&#)&&& www.americasmart.com
Atlanta Apparel Market AmericasMart Atlanta, GA *&*((&#)&&& www.americasmart.com
LA Kids Market California Market Center Los Angeles, CA ('),)&#),&& www.californiamarketcenter.com
Atlanta Apparel Market AmericasMart Atlanta, GA *&*((&#)&&& www.americasmart.com
Kidz at Stylemax Merchandise Mart Chicago, IL )'(+(-#--+/ www.kidzatstylemax.com
Dallas KidsWorld Market Dallas Market Center Dallas, TX ('*-**#-*** www.dallasmarketcenter.com
5 8 ; 7 H D I > 7M I $ 9 E C C 7 H 9 > ( & ' )
2/22/13 12:40 PM
Kalulu Kids is a distinctive clothing line that crosses cultural boundaries through the founders’ blending of their American, East African and British heritages. The collection introduces the East African kikoy fabric to the market, which flaunts bright colors and plaid or striped border prints. The fabric is made from 100 percent cotton and becomes softer with each wash. The simple yet traditional designs give kids an unfussy way to look pulled together. Wholesale prices range from $22 to $40 and the line comes in sizes 2T to 10. The brand has recently partnered with non-profit organization, Scale Africato, to help build schools. For more information, please contact firstname.lastname@example.org (646) 228 1198 www.kalulukids.com
One-hundred percent kid-safe and eco-friendly, these made-in-the-U.S.A. fabric decals are removable, reusable and repositionable, with funky and fun designs that are playful, cheery and colorful. All-encompassing designs are flexible to interact with and themed overlays are big enough to truly create an immersive environment. Pop & Lolli has teamed up with (it’s) Chic 2 Change to provide children in need with educational materials and resources for every set of decals purchased.
POP & LOLLI
Life-sized fabric wall decals, rich in detail, will transform any blank wall into a world of imagination and play. Pop & Lolli murals create a completely immersive environment and provide an opportunity for expression and exploration.
Contact us at: Pop & Lolli Mia Viljoen, Founder & CEO email@example.com www.popandlolli.com (323) 933-3157 Pop & Lolli, PO Box 351282, Los Angeles, CA 90035
What could be more essential to the long-term health and well-being of a child than a great night’s sleep? Woolly Boo proudly offers handcrafted, heirloom-quality basic bedding to ensure children sleep more soundly and wake up happier. Infants, toddlers and preschoolers benefit from renewing slumber in luxurious sleep sacks, mattress pads, comforters and pillows filled with organic wool and layered with organic cotton. Parents can rest assured their children are comforted in natural materials that are chemical-free, hypoallergenic, breathable, mold and mildew resistant, flame retardant and moisture-wicking. Visit us at Playtime in March!
www.woollyboo.com www.facebook.com/woollyboo www.twitter.com/woollyboo
Glossy Chick represents a diva and fashionista in training, and looks to inspire young girls to be their own chick. The Fall 2013 collection represents the many phases of Glossy: Casual Chick, Sporty Chick, Fancy Chick, Boho Chick, and the list goes on and on. No matter what phase she is going through at any time, she remains, and will always be, a Glossy Chick. For additional information, contact: firstname.lastname@example.org (212) 365 4978 www.glossychick.com
2/19/13 9:05 AM
NY Now Javits Center New York, NY (212) 204-1060 www.nyigf.com
KIDShow Las Vegas Ballyâ€™s Hotel and Casino Las Vegas, NV (305) 663-6635 www.kidshow.cc
The Childrenâ€™s Great Event Shoe Show The Marriott at Glenpointe Teaneck, NJ (516) 225-7463 www.thecgess.com
Kidz at Stylemax Merchandise Mart Chicago, IL (312) 527-7759 www.kidzatstylemax.com
The Chicago Market The Merchandise Mart Chicago (312) 527-7561 www.shopchicagomarket.com
KIDShow Miami Miami Airport Convention Center Miami, FL (908) 232-0867 www.kidshow.cc
Dallas Apparel & Accessories Market Dallas Market Center Dallas, TX (214) 744-7444 www.dallasmarketcenter.com
Northern California Show Oakland City Center Marriott Oakland, CA www.kidson6.com
Vow, New World of Bridal AmericasMart Atlanta, GA (404) 220-3000 www.americasmart.com
ENK Childrenâ€™s Club Javits Center New York, NY (212) 759-8055 www.enkshows.com
Atlanta Apparel Market AmericasMart Atlanta, GA (404) 220-3000 www.americasmart.com
Ready. Set. Summer!
Editorâ€™s Note: Show details are subject to change. Please call the phone numbers or visit the show websites for up-to-date schedules. Show sponsors may send updates to email@example.com.
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INFANTSâ€™, GIRLSâ€™ & BOYSâ€™ WEAR REVIEWĆŤÄ‘ĆŤJUNE 2011 $5.00
INFANTSâ€™, GIRLSâ€™ & BOYSâ€™ WEAR REVIEWĆŤÄ‘ĆŤMARCH 2011 $5.00
BON BĂ‰BĂ‰ BRANCHES OUT Ä‘ CONQUERING FACEBOOK COMMERCE Ä‘ĆŤIN-STORE CLASSES EARN TOP MARKS
INFANTSâ€™, GIRLSâ€™ & BOYSâ€™ WEAR REVIEW
Whether you are ready or not, summer is here! These must haves are kid friendly and built to support and protect your most important asset.
NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2011 $5.00
JANUARY 2012 $5.00
FROCK STAR BONNIE YOUNG LICENSING ALTRUISM RULES RETAIL RULES: K.I.D.S. GOES SUPERHERO STYLE AND BACK TO SCHOOLBOYSâ€™ RETRO
INFANTSâ€™, GIRLSâ€™ & BOYSâ€™ WEAR REVIEW
LOOKS STAGE A COMEBACK
Oh Baby! BIG, BOLD BEAUTIFUL
CASH CROP: EXPLORING THE COTTON SPIKE FASHIONâ€™S NEW TRADITIONALISTS
THE EUROPEAN ISSUE Going Dutch: Claesenâ€™s U.S. CEO Shares Her Holland Experience
AWAY FROM HOME: DWELLSTUDIO TALKS APPAREL
La Dolce Vita: Our Pitti Bimbo Report
Group Buying: Deal or No Deal?
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2/22/13 12:41 PM
Save the Date LEARN
South Point Hotel, Casino & Spa Las Vegas, Nevada
MAY 7-9, 2013
Plan now to attend the only annual event exclusively for the Juvenile Specialty Store market.
Learn from top marketing and industry speakers as they present on the latest topics and trends, offer “how-to’s” on succeeding in this evolving marketplace, and lead peer-to-peer discussions of best practices. Network with fellow buyers, retailers, manufacturers and trade media at our poolside reception, meals and refreshment breaks, and more. Explore our industry expo, meet with key suppliers, gain important product knowledge and view mid-year product introductions. Enjoy a world of gaming, dining and entertainment just outside your door at this spectacular all-in-one resort near the Las Vegas Strip.
2 nd year at this SPECTACULAR RESORT • 80,000 square foot casino • More than a dozen restaurants & bars • World-class entertainment & nightlife • 64-lane state-of-the-art bowling center • 16-screen movie theater complex • Video arcade & 600 seat bingo room • Fitness center & full-service spa • Landscaped outdoor pool & Jacuzzi • Liquor store, barber shop & more
Spring Educational Conference & Trade Show
• Complimentary airport shuttle • Near the Las Vegas Strip
REGISTER TODAY! Contact: Sarah Binkley • firstname.lastname@example.org • 210.691.4848, Ext. 111 • www.allbabyandchildsec.com
2/19/13 9:40:39 AM
Bows Arts M ARKETPLACE
The Beautiful Bow
2/18/13 1:14 PM
Join Earnshawâ€™s Marketplace Earnshawâ€™s Marketplace maximizes small budgets for emerging infant and toddler companies. Tout your up-and-coming apparel or juvenile product collections to retailers looking for new resources targeting newborns through pre-schoolers. Call (646) 278-1510
2/18/13 1:15 PM
STYLIST: KORI AGE: 7 HOMETOWN: EAST ORANGE, N.J.
Ruum sweater and belt, Malibu Sugar tiedye tank, striped jeans by Diesel, Skechers socks, Nina Kids glitter sneakers, hat by Fore! N Birdie.
Angela Frost dress, Malibu Sugar crystalembellished leggings, skimmers by LUV Footwear, Fore! N Birdie headband, Ruum cross body bag.
Piecing together show-stopping outfits is nothing new to our guest stylist. Not one to let a treasure chest of old dance costumes go to waste, Kori has a knack for tearing the tulle off of old dresses and refashioning them as hats, or turning wide leg dance pants into a snazzy top. As the daughter of Style Mayvin blogger T. Strong, you might say Kori inherited a keen eye for trends that she applies to her everyday wardrobe. She pairs sequin-covered boots with her school uniform and on weekends she gallivants around in her favorite long “pink princess dresses” and black-and-burgundy tutu. As the only girl in the family, which consists of two older brothers, Kori brings pizzazz to the dinner table with her must-have items like sequins and zebra print (both of which she wore to our office on the day of the shoot), and while she likes sports, there’s no place quite like the mall. “My favorite store is The Children’s Place,” she says, adding that she can’t wait to grow into tween haven Justice. In the meantime, she admires the store’s cute accessories and frocks and finds inspiration for the children’s line she would like to create one day. —Angela Velasquez
PHOTOGRAPHY BY McCANDLISS AND CAMPBELL
Jumina striped blazer, Kickle by Alex and Alexa Chihuahua print T-shirt, Fore! N Birdie skirt.
2/19/13 9:06 AM
Why Hotslings? • Guaranteed to outsell any competitors brand or we’ll buy your stock back! • Easily adjustable; multiple carrying positions! • Super lightweight and compact! • Quick & easy to slip on and off
It’s all about the buckle! Two dummy-proof buckles allow the Hotslings AP™ to be adjustable. The Hotslings AP™ sling is a safe continuous loop – it cannot detach or break apart.
Just adjust and go! It’s that easy!
Includes a Matching Diaper Pod!
MOONLIT SKY GRAHAM CRACKER
2/19/13 9:37:42 AM
1385 Broadway Suite 1800 NY, NY 10018 212-279-4150 Mark Zelen
www.littleme.com Northeast Bill & Sandie Ellsworth 781-326-3999 Southeast Paul Daubney 404-577-6840 Caribbean/Latin America/ South Florida Rolando & Ana Hidalgo 305-266-8745 West Coast Teresa Stephen & Krystal Crooymans 866-723-KIDS Midwest Richard Finkelstein & Al Zaiff 800-935-0236 Texas/Southwest Annette Cardona-Stein 214-637-4446 International Nathan A. Mamiye 212-216-6008 See us at: The Children’s Club NYC, Mar. 10th-12th
2/19/13 9:55:25 AM
Petite Pioneers • Local Advantage • Globetrotting with Tea Collection • Kleine Fabriek • Sleepwear - Earnshaws Magazine: Infants' and Childr...