Earnshaw's | January 2020

Infants’, Girls’ and Boys’ Wear Review

Volume 104 issue 1 • january 2020 $10.00

coat tales

a season of cozy-chic collections Retail Reimagined Slime That Satisfies Glitz & Glam Drive Dainty Girl Accessories

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As we roll into 2020, we will be celebrating 20 years of bringing you the softest blankets in the universe.

We are humbled by your support.

With gratitude and LOVE,

Trish Moreno CEO | Creative Director

Featuring Luxe™ Throws (Big Kid Blankets) in pink and cream.

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january 2020 contents

Noelle Heffernan Publisher Emily Beckman Editor Nancy Campbell Trevett McCandliss Creative Directors

f eatures

EDITORIAL

8 Retail Redefined Retailers are reinventing themselves in increasingly creative and thoughtful ways, with an eye on service and social/environmental good. By Lauren Parker

Lauren Parker Executive Editor Mariah Walker Contributing Fashion Editor Advertising Jennifer Craig Special Accounts Manager

16 Fur of the Moment Combing through the latest wooly, shaggy and fluffy outerwear offerings for this fall.

By Sari Zoe Rozins

Production Laurie Guptill Production Manager Mike Hoff Webmaster Bruce Sprague Circulation Director

departmen ts

CORPORATE Caroline Diaco VP/Group Publisher

4 Editor’s Note 6 Scene & Heard

Greg Dutter Editorial Director

12 Trend Watch 30 Behind the Seams 32 Final Cut

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28 What’s Selling

On cover: Sophia wears Widgeon hooded coat.

Photography by Paul Thorburn/Stem Agency; styling by Sari Zoe Rozins; hair and makeup by Kumiko Hirose for MAC Cosmetics; styling assistance

by Ariane Velluire; photo assistance

by Darrel Taunt.

This page: Myami wears Imoga red vest, Molo zebra print blouse, Young Soles silver shoes; Layla wears Hatley tri-color coat and floral sweater, Molo zebra print skirt and Bearpaw navy sneakers.

Carroll Dowden Chairman Mark Dowden President & CEO Agnes Alves Controller 9Threads One Maynard Drive Park Ridge, NJ 07656 Tel: (201) 571-2244 CONTACT INFO Sales/Editorial Offices 214 W. 39th St., Suite 205 New York, NY 10018 Tel: (646) 278-1550 Fax: (646) 278-1553 Advertising@9Threads.com EditorialRequests@ 9Threads.com Circulation Office One Maynard Drive Park Ridge, NJ 07656 Tel: (201) 571-2244 Circulation@9Threads.com

Earnshaw’s Infants, Girls and Boys Wear Review ISSN 0161-2786 (USPS-320-090) The business and fashion magazine of the childrenswear industry is published 10x a year by Wainscot Media, 214 West 39th Street, Suite 205 New York, NY 10018. The publishers of this magazine do not assume responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage is paid in New York, N.Y. and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: U.S. $48; Rates outside U.S. available upon request. Single price copy, $5. Copyright 2011 by Wainscot Media. Postmaster: Send address changes to Earnshaw’s Infants, Girls and Boys Wear Review, P.O. Box 8548, Lowell, MA 01853-8548. Publisher is not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts or photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender. Wainscot Media will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. No portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. Printed in USA.

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FOR OVER 20 YEARS, AMERICA’S LEADING TRADESHOW FOR CHILDREN’S FASHION AND ACCESSORIES

FEBRUARY 11-13, 2020 | AUGUST 2-4, 2020 JACOB JAVITS CENTER, NYC

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EDITOR’S NOTE

2020 Vision AS EACH YEAR begins, we think about how the days ahead might impact our lives. We feel a sense of renewal and hope, and we make resolutions. It’s a time of reflection mixed with nervous anticipation. Thoughsts of what was, what could have been and what might be swirl together. And while data analytics have provided a lifeline of sorts, the future remains educated guesswork at best, a mystery at worst. Not even experts or clairvoyants really know where the new year will lead. When it comes to predictions, unexpected swells and sudden storms capsize even the best-charted courses.

If you want proof, just look at these sunken ships.

• In 1929, Popular Mechanics predicted the next big apparel trend would be clothing made from asbestos. (Yikes!) Experts praised the material for being strong, flexible, easy to clean and “as lustrous as silk.” While it would be adapted for fire-retardant work clothes, the everyday-fashion prediction went bust once the carcinogenic qualities of asbestos were discovered.

• In 1939, designer Gilbert Rhode predicted that by 2020 socks would be disposable. The so-called product prophet also said buttons, pockets, collars and ties would be ancient history. For starters, he didn’t see the smartphone coming and therefore the back pocket being a crucial apparel feature, especially for teenagers.

He came close, however, on the necktie’s disappearing act, which is accelerating in the casual clothing revolution. As for Rhode’s prediction that hats would include antennas so wearers could receive radio signals, it’s not far off the mark. If he had guessed a gadget in one’s ear, he’d have been spot-on.

• In 1911, the Royal College of Surgeons of England predicted the human foot would evolve by 2020 to include only the big toe! Our smaller outer phalanges would morph into a solid structure, due largely to inactivity. Well, they might have gotten the sedentary lifestyle part right, but they miscalculated the speed at which evolution occurs.

Not all predictions were complete misfires, however. Nearly a century ago, Popular Mechanics foresaw the drone delivery age, citing the role pinpoint parachute deliveries would play in delivering consumer goods. The authors suggested that parcels could be delivered within feet of their intended target. Drones look to improve on that accuracy in the not-too-distant future.

The Jetsons age is at our doorstep—literally.

The “automatic retail store” was another futuristic concept, envisioned in the 1940s, that’s coming to fruition. Back then, the idea was shoppers would insert a key into a slot next to the item desired, which would then be recorded onto a tape roll. At checkout, shoppers would hand the punched tape roll (similar to tape rolls in player pianos of the early 20th century) to the cashier, who would feed it into a translator machine and a conveyor belt would deliver the goods for bagging. Not all that seamless, really.

This store-sized vending machine concept, however, has picked up speed with the recent rollout of Amazon Go as well as supermarkets, McDonald’s and Duane Reade in various beta stages of self-checkout concepts. They cut down on wait times and trim overhead costs. This issue’s feature, “Reinventing Retail” (p. 8), looks at several other recently introduced store innovations that no one saw coming—even a few years ago. Efficiency, experience and a broader purpose beyond “shopping” could be the wave of the future. I wonder if any prognosticators foresaw DSW’s latest pop-up concept that doesn’t sell any shoes and why the powers that be think it’s good for business. Read and find out why.

Speaking of reading, John E. Watkins Jr.’s out-there prediction, made in 1900, that by 2020 there’d no longer be a C, X and Q in the alphabet isn’t all that off-base. Watkins believed these letters would be “extraneous” (can’t spell that word without an “x”) because we’d be communicating in a more efficient way, using truncated words and expressions. OMG! Watkins the texting revolution! This lover of the written word, however, hopes none of our beloved 26 letters and punctuation become extinct. I learned—and love—my ABCs, and seeing the correct use of an apostrophe delights me.

Grammar nerdiness aside, the misses and hits have emboldened me to make a few predictions regarding our beloved industry.

I envision a year of tremendous opportunity for brands and retailers. Those with ambition, passion and talent, along with a willingness to work extremely hard, will (likely) win the day.

The estimated $30-billion U.S. childrenswear market is, again, there for the taking. I also predict Earnshaw’s will be on hand to report on the latest, greatest—and cutest—industry news, complete with helpful insight and expert analysis, as it has for more than a century. You can take that prediction to the bank.

Happy New Year!

E M I LY B E C K M A N Editor

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Sc e n e & H e a r d

Couture Kids Launches Plushies with Celebrity Alpacas

West Hollywood’s Couture Kids knows the value of a celebrity photo op—no matter how furry! The upscale specialty boutique recently hosted an event to kick off its exclusive Fable & Whisper alpaca plushies featuring the famous real-life duo (soon to be stars of a live action/ animated TV series and children’s book).

These alpaca celebrities are on a mission “to inspire compassion.” Part of rescue animal traveling farm Little Horse on the Prairie (with almost 17K followers on Instagram), Fable and Whisper

are rented out for parties, photo shoots and other events, with children and adults always saying them want to “take them home.” Now they can.

Couture Kids Robertson’s exclusive capsule of Fable & Whisper plushies is made from 98 percent alpaca wool and retails for $42. (FYI, Fable is the brunette, Whisper is the blonde). At the launch event, anyone who purchased a plushie got a VIP “meet and greet” with the famous alpacas, not to mention an adorable photo op. A portion of the sales proceeds go toward clean drinking water in Peru, where alpacas hail from.

“We held the event inside the Robertson store and had a great, star-studded turnout,” says Bryan Olivarez, director of marketing, public relations and e-commerce, Couture Kids. Stars included Melora Hardin (The Office), Kyle Richards (Real Housewives BH), Obba Babatunde (Big Little Lies), Rachel Boston (Last Bridesmaid) Mychal-Bella Rayne (Haves & Have Nots) and Lara Jill Miller (Doc McStuffins). Couture Kids immediately sold out of the 150 alpaca plushies, and is restocking plus adding inventory to its seven stores. “We even want to send the alpacas to our New York store, we’re just working out the logistics,” says Olivarez.

PlayMonster Introduces Face Paintoos at Kidz Bop Concert PlayMonster kicked off the U.S. launch of its new Face Paintoos brand at the sold-out Kidz Bop World Tour concert last month in Los Angeles. Joined by children’s influencer Haileigh Vasquez (@Hails_World), fans got a look at the new line.

“We wanted to create something that allowed kids to express their personalities and make parents’ lives easier,” says Lisa Wuennemann, associate vice president of marketing at PlayMonster. “Kids can switch their Face Paintoos with ease and don’t need to worry about smudging their face or transferring it onto clothing.”

Launched in the U.K. last year, Face Paintoos are a mess-free way to approach face painting.

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The colorful designs are applied like temporary tattoos. Removal is also a breeze, using one of the included wipes. Offered in three themes: wild, magical and pet, Face Paintoos are also available in an all-inclusive party pack.

OneCoast Expands Dallas Showroom for 2020 OneCoast, a NATIONWIDE sales and marketing services company, is expanding its Dallas showroom to include an additional 8,000 square feet of space. The expansion creates added space for improved product showcasing for its vendors and an enhanced shopping experience for buyers. The OneCoast Dallas showroom, located in the World Trade Center building, will debut at this month’s Total Home and Gift Show.

“The Texas, Oklahoma, Louisiana and Arkansas retail area is one of the largest in our industry. It just made sense to expand our presence in the Dallas Market Center to better serve our retailer customers,” says John Keiser, CEO of OneCoast. “Dallas Market Center has been very supportive of our efforts and were good partners to work with in our efforts to better present our vendors and better serve our customers.”

According to Fred Pannek, president of Mud Pie, the brand’s footprint is doubling in size and will overlook the Dallas Market Center Atrium from the second floor. “Buyers are going to love our new space in Dallas where they can work with their OneCoast territory managers in a more relaxed, spacious environment,” he says. “They’ll be able to see the magic that Chad Gieseke and his visual team have created to inspire ideas for merchandising and store displays.”

Cindy Morris, president and CEO of Dallas Market Center, says the strong relationship between OneCoast and the Dallas Market Center has been instrumental and essential during this major expansion period. “We’re proud of our long-standing partnership with OneCoast and their strategic decision to expand,” she says. “Their showroom is a destination for loyal buyers during markets, but also throughout the year.”

OneCoast will kick off their newly expanded Dallas showroom at their Ribbon Cutting events on Jan. 8 and Jan 9, in addition to exciting daily events throughout the January market with food, drinks, entertainment and giveaways.

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SPONSORED CONTENT

Joules pullover and sweatpants

Angel Dear jumpsuit

Kickee Pants unicorn apron

True Blue the color of the year for 2020, according to Pantone.

Laurie Pressman, vice president of the Pantone Color Institute, says the shade provides familiarity and comfort amid a time of sudden transformation.

“We’re returning to classics because everything has been chaotic in the world,” Pressman says, adding, “It’s not about doing it like you did in the past, but reinterpreting it.” Pressman anticipates lots of sea- and sky-inspired layering across children’s fashion.

Additionally, the blue hue can be made naturally, supporting today’s sustainability movement.

CLASSIC BLUE IS

BCBG Girls dress

Cape Clogs clogs

Booginhead teether blanket

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S PECI A L R E P OR T

Redefining Retail RETAILERS ARE REINVENTING THEMSELVES IN INCREASINGLY CREATIVE AND THOUGHTFUL WAYS, WITH AN EYE ON SERVICE AND SOCIAL/ENVIRONMENTAL GOOD. BY LAUREN PARKER

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SHOWFIELD PHOTOGRAPHY BY EITAN GAMLIELI

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organizations, and Vagabond shoes skipped the Black Friday sale and ASHION STORES WITH no merchandise? Philanthropic instead donated 10 percent of its receipts (or $26,100) to Humanium pop-ups where you can donate old clothes and buy recycled Metal by IM, a supply chain using metal from destroyed firearms. ones? Wellness stores where you can road-test yoga clothes “We wanted to give [The Black Friday] discount to someone else,” in an exercise class? Welcome to retail’s brave new world, says Anna Fahle Björcke, head of Vagabond. “We got such positive where the shopping script is being rewritten daily. Retailers have been reactions, not the least from our multi-brand retailers, who welcome steadily reinventing the store—both inside and outside its walls—but a different message for this weekend.” Giving really is the new black. as consumers are seeking deeper, more meaningful purchases and Zappos’ newly launched digital Goods For Good platform also helps experiences, that Instagrammable flower wall ain’t gonna cut it. It’s shoppers do good from home, aggregating 150 brands filterable by variretail survival of the fittest writ large, with out-of-the-box creativity ous benefits (i.e. Give Back products, Sustainably Certified products, and authentic corporate social responsibility (CSR) emerging as the Recycled Materials). Native Shoes is one such brand, and thinks the vital life skills. program is indicative of a wider societal change. “There is an ever“Retail has been rapidly shifting due to consumer, economic and increasing demand by customers looking to community demands, and the increase in shop more conscientiously and seek out brands experience-based retail environments is a with real purpose,” says Rebecca Boxall, Native’s direct answer to today’s modern consumer vice president of marketing for channels and demands,” says Nicole Leinbach Reyhle, customer experience. As Native has adopted founder of Retail Minded and the Independent the mission of “Live Lightly” with sustainable Retailer Conference, who notes that consumshoes, she sees alignment. “Goods for Good is ers expect to be engaged, entertained and a great example of the ways in which Zappos supported with exceptional customer care, really understands the wants and needs of its but that’s no longer enough. “The catch is, customer base,” she says. “We’re excited to see they also want this at their convenience and how the community engages with this initiative often with a socially good attachment linked going forward.” to their spending decisions.”

Another (outside the shoe box) example Call it “do-good retail,” where charitable is famously philanthropic jewelry designer stores earn their angel wings plus a halo Kendra Scott, whose Kendra Gives Back lets effect of boosted sales. According to a 2017 consumers and local charities host events in its CSR study, 80 percent of consumers said stores, with 20 percent of proceeds funneled they’d purchase a product because a company to the cause. The stores keep the doors open to advocated for an issue they cared about. It’s draw in passersby as well. “The most impactful also why #GivingTuesday, following Cyber thing about our community giving program is Monday and Black Friday, has been so sucthat we’re able to support small community cessful. In 2019, $511 million was raised online organizations that don’t get much corporate on #GivingTuesday in the U.S., according to support,” says Tom Nolan, president of Kendra GivingTuesday.org, a 28 percent increase from Scott. “We empower each of our local stores to 2018, helping consumers assuage their guilt authentically connect with their community, about having too much stuff and doing good learn about the causes they support, and engage in the process. Toms Shoes even closed its Show and sell (later). Showfields’ small-format with those causes in a meaningful way.” stores until 1 p.m. that day to let employees “showrooms” and DSWGives pop up are more Community building without philanthropy spend the morning volunteering at local about brand building than immediate sales.

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is also vital. Already known for its brand collabs and launch parties, acclaimed Los Angeles sneaker boutique Sportie LA recently turned its parking lot into the experiential and mural-bedecked #FameYard, where consumers could peruse the latest in street art and music. “We’re also using the space, and the foot traffic, to hopefully inspire change,” says owner Isack Fadlon. “In 2020, we’ll have an entire panel dedicated to Creative Visions Foundation, which advocates for numerous causes through art.”

Now in its 10th year, Vans’ two House of Vans flagships have thrived as creative hubs, beyond the Vans brand. “We have a marketplace program at all House of Vans that allows local creatives to showcase and sell their own wares, ranging from original art and zines to vinyl and t-shirts,” says April Vitkus, Vans senior director of global brand marketing and strategy. “We give the space to them, uplifting the community.”

Adidas is another company that has expanded past just “selling merch.”

In November, at its Paris flagship, the company partnered with augmented reality company Eyecandylab to create an immersive experience right in the store to teach consumers about the environmental impact of plastic usage. “It is important to us to make the innovations of our brand a tangible experience for our customers,” says Florian Fiedler, senior manager innovation and trends at Adidas.

In the case of DSWGives Do Good Pop-Up that didn’t even have shoes for purchase, storytelling replaced selling, educating consumers about the benefits of footwear donation instead. “The days of selling product just to sell product are over,” says Amy Stevenson, DSW’s chief marketing officer. “It’s about connecting everything we do with a higher purpose that resonates with our customer.” Stevenson believes the effort will also increase sales in the long run. “These non-product efforts convert customers because you’re showing them that you’re more than a retailer trying to sell them something, you’re a brand that shares the same values,” she says.

Recycle Retail Over the past three years, the secondhand clothing market has grown 21 times faster than the overall apparel industry, according to Thred Up’s Resale Report, and is expected to reach $51 billion by 2023. As Patagonia’s founder, Yvon Chouinard says, “The best jacket for our planet is one that already exists.” That’s why Patagonia exchanges branded merchandise from consumers for store credit, reworks it via

its ReCrafted program and resells product on WornWear.com. The outdoor brand took its recycled retail concept a step further with the opening of its first-ever physical Worn Wear store in Boulder, CO this past fall.

The pop-up, which will stay open until next month, is like the brand’s own consignment store that exclusively sells used items as well as its Recrafted Collection, which consists of clothing made from apparel that was beyond repair. The store also hosts repair and upcycling workshops.

Patagonia is blazing a trail that others are following. The North Face introduced The North Face Renewed in 2018, which refurbishes old garments and resells them at a discount, and ThredUp has entered partnerships to sell used clothes through Macy’s, JCPenney and Madewell stores. The concepts hit on sustainability, a concern that crosses all demographics and ages.

It’s also in step with the Sharing Economy, particularly (too) many Millennials and Gen Zers drowning in student loan debt. The affordability angle appeals to their wallets.

Beyond do-good retail, there’s feel-good retail. Lululemon has been building local and like-minded healthy communities since its outset, with free in-store yoga classes that let women limber up in their Lulus. New is the brand’s 20,000-squarefoot flagship, opened recently in Chicago’s Lincoln Park neighborhood, which supersizes the experiential wellness concept. There are two floors of retail, exercise and meditation studios, plus a healthy restaurant. Studio classes aren’t free but the new concept lets women test Product rethought.

From top: LEGO x drive Lululemon workout gear during a Snap’s no-merch class without purchasing it. event with augOn a smaller fitness scale, New York’s mented reality (AR) Tip Top Kids Shoes teamed recently with selling; Patagonia’s Worn Wear pop-up Merrell and Hike It Baby for a healthy with recrafted items; consumer community trek in Central Nordstrom Local’s Park. Merrell designed the invitation, high-service tailoring room; The Honest Co.’s which Tip Top promoted on social media Jessica Alba at and in-store. “Everyone met at the store, one of State Bags’ had food, and the kids, aged 3 to 10, got charitable Bag Drop rallies. fitted with shoes on loan from Merrell,” says Margot Wasserman, store manager/ buyer, who also gave out coloring books for identifying items on the nature hike. “It was such a nice community building event. Even the gift cards Merrell handed out were co-branded,” she adds.

Shop Now, Receive Later Back in the day, shoppers went into stores with the objective to walk out with a purchase. These days, not so much. Stores are increasingly serving as showrooms, which cuts down on space needs and inventory costs. At Nordstrom Local hubs, for example, there is no inventory. Shoppers,

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“These non-product (store) efforts convert customers because you’re showing them that you’re more than a retailer trying to sell them something, you’re a brand that shares the same values.”

then entered a virtual however, can find tailorstore with DJ’s and arcade ing services, get a manimachines, and shoppable cure, receive style advice — Amy Stevenson, CMO, DSW merchandise. and shoe repair services.

“Stores that don’t carry inventory solve a major challenge for brands/ They can also pick up items ordered online and even get them gift retailers,” says Beth Goldstein, accessories and footwear Business Analyst wrapped, as well as drop off returns and donate gently used clothing at NPD Group. She cites the Margaux shoe shop in the Bloomingdale’s for charity. The overarching idea is service and convenience. “All cusNew York flagship, where every size and color is on display for try-on tomers like more selection, and receiving things faster,” noted Erik and customers then receive a made-to-measure service for an exact Nordstrom, co-president, principal executive officer and director, in fit. With recent studies showing 88 percent of women are wearing the a recent earnings call. “Consumers also want to try it on before they wrong shoe size, the custom fitting is incentive to come into the store take it home. Having that alternative means a lot.” and avoid the hassle of returns. M.Gemi, Melissa Gonzalez, founder of popa direct-to-consumer brand, operates up company The Lionesque Group similarly at its stores. and author of The Pop Up Paradigm, Researchers from Harvard and concurs. “There are many aspects that Wharton note that the Zero Inventory make retailing experiential beyond an Store strategy leads to “supercharged” Instagrammable moment,” she says. customers who spend more and return “In Nordstrom Local, meeting with less when they do buy. This “offlinea tailor is experiential because it’s a online complementarity” leads to a 28 moment to interact with the brand on percent reduction in inter-purchase a deeper level—a human level and one times, buying across 20 percent more that genuinely serves a purpose.” product categories and trading-up In 2019, Lego and Snap launched a to more expensive items, with lower limited-edition Lego Wear clothing returns on more expensive items. store, with no clothing at all. Consumers Retail therapy? The meditation room at Lululemon’s new flagship.

In addition to zero-inventory stores, snapped the artfully displayed Snapcode,

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SHOWFIELD PHOTOGRAPHY BY EITAN GAMLIELI

Bob Phibbs, a retail analyst. there’s the multiple showroom conIn this regard, State Bags, known cept, a mix of small-inventory stores for its philanthropic Bag Drops of where brands rent space. Showfields supply-filled backpacks for the needy, in New York is one such example, built goes out of its way to educate retail around the concept of “discovery partners on its mission so the employand engagement” rather than just ees can communicate that message “shopping,” according to co-founder to customers. “We’ve had retailers Katie Hunt. For $6,000 a month, from Shopbop to Nordstrom bring brands receive staffing, inventory hundreds of team members to our management, data collection, events, bag drop rallies to see the fruits of a custom dashboard with live updates their sales and the giving process,” and a technology suite. With an says Scot Tatelman, co-founder of average brand stay of six months, State Bags. “And we’ve never left a Showfields keeps things fresh for rally where store employees haven’t consumers. Showfield’s also built out told us, ‘That was the most impactful its fourth floor as a community space Showfields goes retro in an immersive room. Jewelry designer Kendra Scott event we’ve ever done!’” that’s hosted more than 150 events gives charity Coming Up Rosies proceeds from a Kendra Gives Back event.

Indeed, the retail times are changin the past six months, from panels ing—rapidly. The store as we once to yoga classes to private concerts. knew it is morphing into a brick-and-click blended experience that “We believe that the future of retail is C-Commerce, or Consumer stretches beyond buying goods. The redefining of retail is one that’s Commerce, and a large part of C-Commerce is community,” Hunt says. more efficient, entertaining and aims to achieve a greater good. More They say charity starts at home, and there is a strong belief that investprofitable retailers and happier customers present a win-win scenario. ing in retail employees is critical as to whether these do-good/feel-good “Retailers will continue to intertwine their IRL (in real life) and URL store concepts translate. Rude sales help won’t be overlooked because destinations so that they seamlessly flow into one conversation,” says of a charitable angle. “Make no mistake, bad retail is on trial and the DSW’s Stevenson. • consumer has judged you as guilty by not opening their wallets,” says

Eggcellent FALL 2020: AGRICULTURE

@kickeepants #kickeepants kickeepants.com

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TREND WATCH

The Goo Stuff SEVEN SLIMES TO STOCK IN 2020

Baby Shark SlimyGloop Mix’Ems Baby slime, do-doda-doo-da- doo... baby slime! Seven types of slimy gloop with five mix-ins.

Iscream Super Slime Edgy metallic slime that glows in the dark.

Super Cool Prehistoric Volcanic Slime Lab A dino-themed set yielding solid, åmulticolor, glitter and glow-in-thedark slimes.

Craft City Celebration Slime A colorful concoction of slime, pink clay and sprinkles in collaboration with YouTuber Karina Garcia.

Thames & Kosmos Gross Anatomy Slime casts of organs arranged in a plastic torso, complete with scalpel for pretend play.

Crazy Aaron’s Thinking Putty Glittering putty made from real diamond dust.

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Compound Kings 3-D Goosh Slime that comes to life with 3-D glasses.

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The Girl Power Issue

photography by franck malthiery

In honor of Women’s History Month, Earnshaw’s March issue will highlight the ambition, grit and infectious spirit of women in our industry.

This special edition will include: • Profiles of Leading Childrenswear Execs • Roundup of Inspiring “Girl Power” Fashions • Discussion on the Role of Gender in Our Industry • Five Rising Stars Under 30 Themed advertising packages of print, video and social media sponsorships are available upon request.

Email Noelle.Heffernan@9Threads.com for rates and details.

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be the buyer

The Strategist Vicki Davis, co-owner of The Children’s Shop in Atlanta, on what, when and how she buys to keep customers satisfied for more than 30 years.

Never Enough New: Looking for what’s new is a part of my daily routine.

It’s important to not only be constantly scanning for fresh product but to diversify the places you look. I do research through trade shows, social media and our customers’ recommendations. I also devour Earnshaw’s magazine when it arrives to see what’s happening in other areas of the country. I even receive Earnshaw’s Buyer Box, in which I recently discovered a wonderful new line, Beet World!

Relationship Advice: Relationships are everything in retail, and every part-

nership should understand the importance of give and take. There are some lines we’ve carried for years—like Kissy Kissy, Florence Eiseman, Funtasia Too, Feltman Brothers and Bailey Boys—not just because of the quality but the strong relationships we’ve built. We also love the process of making new connections, like we have with Little English, The Beaufort Bonnet Company and Pink Chicken, most recently.

System Upgrades: When I first started buying, I would have quite a few

vendors come to the shop to show me their lines—like making a house call.

However, with all the new technology that’s emerged for wholesale ordering (such as Nuorder and Brandboom), things have changed. I place many of my orders at the Atlanta Apparel Mart, and I shop AmericasMart for gift items.

The rest of my orders are through online platforms.

Impulse (No) Control: You always want to stock something fresh and eas-

ily grabbable near the register. It makes a huge difference. For instance, I’ve found some great new toy lines: Tender Leaf, a great wooden collection, and Green Toys, which are made from 100 percent recycled plastic. I also love the Neckerchew reversible bibs with the chewy teethers attached to it. I came across all of them at the Atlanta Gift Show and have already reordered a few times!

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bestsellers Layette: Kissy Kissy, Auraluz and Magnolia Baby Playwear: Bailey Boys, Funtasia Too, Little English Hosiery: Jefferies Socks Accessories: Enewton and Ann’s Accents Special Occasion: Luli & Me, Florence Eiseman and Brown Bowen Outerwear: Widgeon Matching Outfits: Florence Eiseman and Bailey Boys Monogrammable Item: Seersucker bags

by Mint

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Special Delivery!

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The Children’s Shoppe, Ruston, LA

Yellow Turtle, Stowe, VT

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Carousel Children’s Boutique, Williamsburg, VA

Sprout Children’s Shop, Manchester, TN

Cinnamon Bears, Edmond, OK

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Sophia wears Hatley faux fur vest with Lola + the Boys dress.

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Opposite: Sophia wears Andy & Evan leopard faux fur bomber jacket, Lola + the Boys palm tree hoodie and sequin pants. This page: Layla wears Widgeon faux fur fringe jacket, striped shirt and yellow jeans by Molo, Young Soles black shearling lined boots and hat by Lola + the Boys.

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Peyton wears Lola + the Boys tie-dye faux fur coat and sequin shift dress. Opposite: Sophia wears Bonnie Jean dress worn under Widgeon beige faux fur hooded jacket.

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Opposite: Layla wears Hatley colorblock faux fur coat. This page: Sophia wears Lola + the Boys blue faux fur bomber and red sunglasses with Hatley striped buttondown and jeans.

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Myami wears For All Seasons white faux fur zip-up jacket, Lola + the Boys blue sequin bomber, Molo tie-dye velvet joggers and Young Soles black shearling-lined boots. Opposite (from left to right): Layla wears Appaman black faux fur hooded pullover with black star print skirt by Molo; Peyton wears Imoga black faux fur jacket with Molo star print skirt.

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Opposite: Myami wears Molo coat and unicorn dress. This page: Peyton wears Widgeon light blue faux fur vest, top and sequin pants by Molo and Young Soles silver brogues.

Hair and makeup by Kumiko Hirose for MAC Cosmetics; styling assistance by Ariane Velluire; photography assistance

by Darrel Taunt.

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w h a t ’s s e l l i n g

Skipper & Scout Vail, CO

V

and holiday skiing. New clients are ail might be a worldincreasing each year, and we added a class skiing destination, VIP program for loyal customers. It but its well-heeled tourcosts $1,000 to join, but that money ist crowd is as eager to applies to purchases throughout the shop the stores as slalom down the year with 20 percent off. For moms slopes. Skipper & Scout hits both with a few kids, it really pays off. proclivities with ski-themed fashion and fashion-themed skiwear, plus toys Tell me about your Custom Box and cross-generational games to play program. We continue our customer back at the condo. relationships through our boxes when Transplanted “a snowball’s throw” they leave Vail. In store, we learn about from its former location, Skipper & their families, favorite brands, etc., Scout’s new 930-square-foot boutique trade cell phone numbers and text re-opened in November on its fifth photos when new product arrives. anniversary. The cozy space features We then put together boxes to send more than 300 lines targeting newthem, they give us input and then we born to 16 with everything from $5 become their virtual personal shopimpulse accessories to $200 Tutu Du per. We talk this up a lot in the store, Monde dress or $160 Stella McCartney so customers know we’re a one-stopboys’ quilted jacket to a $700 Aviator shop for everything kids, with free gift Nation jacket. The store’s customer wrapping and shipping. They’ll use us base is 80 percent tourists, includyear-round for baby gifts, Christmas ing a big international following, gifts, etc. An average box sells for and while Vail evokes winter sports, $500-$800 retail, unless it’s a baby it’s a year-round destination. Kids or birthday gift, and then they usually even get outfitted for summer camp, spend $100-$150. We love doing this, notes Owner Kerry Roach, a Boston since our regulars come once or twice transplant. The store also co-brands a year, so we can help out in between. with women’s boutique, Perch, and We even do summer camp care boxes men’s boutique, Grey Salt. “We have with candy, diaries and accessories. something for everyone in the family

now,” Roach says.

What is your best-selling brand?

Skipper & Scout is growing its onAviator Nation! The retro look has been line presence with marketing dollars Aviator Nation’s puffy journey jackets are a ray of sunshine in everywhere in fashion, and they’ve behind Instagram promotions to drive Vail’s Austrian-themed village. been ahead of the curve. People love people to the website, which was it as ski and après ski wear, and we’re launched a year ago. The store posts one of the only shops in Vail village with such a large selection, selling product as soon as it arrives, which lets tourists feel connected when pieces for the whole family. they’re not in Vail. The store also regularly posts kids’ modeling sessions on Instagram/Facebook to generate intrigue. “Customers then What are your best-selling items this season? Anything ski from order online or show up at the store looking for what was posted the Sol Angeles, Chaser, Rylee & Cru and Petit Bateau for babies. In girls’ day prior,” Roach says, adding, “People in Vail love shopping as much apparel, athleisure is hot. We’ve been lucky to have access to Ivivva, as they love skiing.” —Lauren Parker the active line from Lululemon, and it sells like crazy. Anything sequin from Hannah Banana, Lola + the Boys, and Mia New York have been How’s business? Snow or no snow, the Vail tradition runs deep, with great sellers, with Sally Miller special occasion dresses a great fit for families coming year after year and many eventually buying second a variety of our girls. For boys, we sell Appaman’s flannels, fleeces and homes. We’ve never had a down month. In 2019, I’d say the tourist trafdown-quilted director jackets all day, plus Aviator Nation’s cozy sweats fic increased, with people coming in for the World Cup in November

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and cool tees. In Layette, Magnetic Me with its magnetic closure system is revolutionary for new moms!

Any new outerwear brands added to the mix recently? We brought in Sam jackets this year ($400 range), and they’ve been so popular.

Aviator Nation puffy journey jackets are also popular to wear under a ski jacket and keep on for the après ski/lunch crowd to see. We partnered with local ski company Skea as well, who designs very fashion-forward ski jackets for women and brought in XS, S and M for tweens.

How about popular accessories? Oh, lots of hats. We sell a ton of CC Beanies with the ski goggles knit into the hat, Melina’s Bowtique double pom-pom hats and Bari Lynn’s crystallized knot headbands.

Grandparents, who aren’t always comfortable guessing sizes, love toys and accessories. Floss and Rock toys are top sellers, like cute puzzles, tea sets and cool water art sets. We have a huge art wall plus travel-ready toys—clay, markers, sticker books etc.—that keep kids off electronics while on vacation! Puzzles are fun for the whole family.

Tourists also buy things they forgot to pack, like bathing suits for the pool and underwear, or full outfits if the luggage didn’t arrive at all!

What’s your trick to drawing tourists (and locals)? We host events from 3pm to 5pm to catch the après ski crowd—from face painting and cookie making to crazy braiding hair stations. We brought in local hat company, Ski Town All-Stars, to make custom hats, and Petite n’ Pretty for a makeup party. We’ve gone back to grassroots marketing

Ski skills not required! Knit ski goggle hats (from CC Beanie) and sequin apparel are top picks.

to get people to our events. The day of, we send staff into the village with logo punching balloons and flyers letting everyone know what event we have at Skipper & Scout that day!

How else do you engage the community? We started great community involvement for boys and also empowering girls, doing events at local gyms, climbing events and yoga studios etc. We’ve also created a Skipper Squad where we host fashion shoots, and they’ve really helped create buzz around our store as a cool hangout. •

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behind the seams

A Ja c k i e o f A l l Tr a d e s Rosie Burno, owner and designer of Dainty Girl Accessories, dishes on retailing, designing and keeping up with ever-evolving trends. By Emily Beckman Rosie Burno has always had a knack for things glamorous, glittery and girly. Ever since stepping out of college with a degree in fashion design, the Canadian designer-turned-retailerturned-wholesaler has been scanning the market for the next hot trend. She started out designing for various women’s and children’s labels before briefly launching her own girls’ clothing line in the late ’90s, only to put it on hiatus to get married and start a family. But that reignited her can-do spirit that first led to her retail career and, soon after, the wholesale business, Dainty Girl Accessories.

“My two girls were a huge inspiration for me,” Burno says, citing her first daughter’s sixth birthday as the catalyst for Dainty Girl Accessories. “She wanted a spa birthday party, and I couldn’t find any salons in Montreal that would come to the house and do little girls’ hair and nails—so, I started a company of my own!”

Dainty Girl began as a traveling beauty service for girls, offering manicures, pedicures, facials and hair styling. Burno would bring accessories and even outfits to the appointments, allowing party attendees to select from an assortment of apparel and accessories fit for a princess. Then, in 2016, Burno made the leap to open her own girls’ boutique, stocking the brands she had been traveling with. The 2,200-square-foot boutique even added a spa section to host parties and draw customers. “It quickly became a unique, one-stop shop for little girls,” she says, adding, “We’re the only ones doing this!”

As business grew, Burno decided to try her hand at girls’ apparel again. “We launched Dainty Girl Accessories online a year ago, and it’s been exploding ever since,” she says, adding that once she hires help she expects business to grow significantly.

“That’s really the only thing holding me back from expanding more—time!” Burno adds.

Who is the Dainty Girl customer? The U.S. market is where my wholesale customers are primarily based and where the most potential for growth lies. Canadians are more conservative, and Dainty Girl Accessories is very vibrant and trend-driven. It would do well here, but not as well. That’s why I’m constantly traveling to the States to get the word out.

Dainty Girl’s Rosie Burno poses with one of her brand’s models.

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What’s the biggest challenge of managing your business?

Staying relevant. It’s a huge challenge keeping up with trends these days. Kids are moving incredibly quickly in this age of social media. What’s cool today could be over in a week! As a designer,

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I need to constantly be searching the market for what’s next. It’s not enough to just know what’s hot now.

oversized sunglasses

Where, specifically, do you look for design inspiration? Staying up to date on what’s happening on the runways is step one. Chanel is one of my favorite designers, so you’ll definitely see some Chanelinspired designs in the collection. Overall, I’m always looking for what’s new—what’s funky. Social media is great for discovering that.

I also travel to the U.S. often and my daughters are a huge source of inspiration, as well.

What were your top sellers this year? Anything unicorn! Our unicorn plush one-piece performed well and so did our unicorn jacket.

What’s next after unicorns? Good question! I’m not sure it’ll even be an animal. I see the next big thing as some sort of new interpretation on girls’ obsession with rainbows and glitter. That could mean a new mythical creature or simply the rise of extravagant hearts, stars or something in between. The unicorn isn’t going anywhere for awhile though—that I can say, for sure!

How do you plan on expanding your assortment in the coming seasons? While I’m not a clothing line, I always like to have a few pieces that are insanely cool—like the unicorn one-pieces that customers went crazy for in 2019. In general, though, retailers want more accessories. They are perfect for changing up any outfit, sell faster and make for a smaller investment.

Any specific styles expected to be big this year? You’ll certainly see more oversized sunglasses and little purses inspired by top women’s designers. Our sunglasses for this spring are insane.

They’re nicer than those for adults!

WHAT’S COOL TODAY COULD BE OVER IN A WEEK .

rainbow hair clip

unicorn tutu dress and headband

What’s your sweet spot in pricing ? Our lowest priced item would be hair clips that retail around $6 up to our highest price item currently, unicorn one-pieces, retailing for $49. I really believe our prices are spot on. It’s not overpriced for what you’re getting in quality. Honestly, I’ve never had any complaints from customers regarding pricing.

How do you plan on continuing to grow the brand in 2020?

Just in the year we’ve been wholesaling, Dainty Girl Accessories has done a handful of trade shows and advertised in publications like Earnshaw’s. If I wasn’t such a one-man show, I think our growth would be completely off the charts! But for now, I just need to take things one at a time. This year, I hope to focus on growing our Instagram page. People need to see numbers and consistency—they will trust and be attracted to a popular account. That’s just the way the world works these days, so we need to get on board!

fuzzy backpack

What do you love most about being a designer/retailer/wholesaler? The freedom. I also love how the process of design has evolved since I graduated school. It used to be all about drawing. Now it’s way more digital—full of constant inspiration and much more geared to the specific needs of the customer. The process goes so quickly now, no longer having to sketch everything out on paper. It’s much easier to produce on a tight timeline, which, as I mentioned earlier, is ideal is today’s fast-paced world.

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FINAL CUT

FOCUS GROUP

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FIFTH GRADERS IN NEW YORK CITY SHARE THEIR WINTER FASHION FAVES. BY L AUREN PARKER

Tess Lego Architect

Audrey Ice Princess

“Beanie hats are fun for winter!

They’re so comfortable and come in all different colors and styles.”

“I love this hat hand-knit by my Aunt Eve. It reminds me of family. I also love my owl flip gloves.”

Jack Alvin Ailey Dancer “Clothing with video game or anime characters are the best, plus my Alvin Ailey hat.

Ellie Sledding Expert

“I love animal prints.

They make me feel fierce! ”

Decklyn Hot Chocolate Taste Tester

Nate Sports Fan

“A flowy top, ballerina jeans and cute sneakers keep me comfortable and stylish all the time.”

“I’ll wear anything with the Giants on it—because, well, they’re the best.”

Smilla Berlin Fashionista “I love my big warm jacket in very light blue. Perfect for snowball fights!”

“Columbia always has good stuff—especially the cool, reversible jackets.”

Steven Snowboard Buff

Cash Snowball Fight Champion “Anything Nike! Perfect for throwing snowballs at people— and playing football.”

Carson Fortnite Enthusiast “Zip track pants and Under Armour layers. Anything I can run around and shoot hoops in.”

Hudson Soccer Star “I still wear shorts in the winter because they make me feel free.”

Ruby Holiday Movie Critic “I wear a lot of sweatshirts, leggings (only the soft ones) and Ugg boots.”

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