INFANTS’, GIRLS’ AND BOYS’ WEAR REVIEW • VOLUME 104 ISSUE 6 • AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2020 $10.00
SWIM LESSONS STATEMENTS IN STYLE & STRATEGY Do the Right Thing Rylee + Cru Creates Diversity Board
Purchasing in a Pandemic Virtual Platforms Come of Age
Spring ’21 Shoe Preview Hot Sandals and Hip Kicks
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AUGUST / SEP TEMBER 2020 CONTENTS
Noelle Heffernan Publisher Emily Beckman Editor-in Chief
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Nancy Campbell Trevett McCandliss Creative Directors EDITORIAL
FEATURES 8 Buyers Beware Retailers detail how the pandemic is impacting their buys for Spring/Summer ’21 and the seasons ahead. By Emily Beckman 24 Dive In Go deeper next summer with bright colors, sassy silhouettes, sustainable materials and sun-protective benefits. By Emily Beckman
36 Easy Does It A fusion of fashion and function delivers versatility and value. By Emily Beckman DE PA R T M E N T S 4 Editor’s Note 6 Scene & Heard 16 Reflections 18 Behind the Seams 20 Trend Watch 38 My Turn 40 Final Cut
On cover: Lilly wears Feather 4 Arrow bikini. This page: Eloise wears Andy & Evan rashguard and matching bottoms. Photography by Leigh Webber
Lauren Parker Executive Editor Mariah Walker Contributing Fashion Editor ADVERTISING Jennifer Craig Special Accounts Manager PRODUCTION Laurie Guptill Production Manager Mike Hoff Webmaster Bruce Sprague Circulation Director CORPORATE Caroline Diaco VP/Group Publisher Greg Dutter Editorial Director Carroll Dowden Chairman Mark Dowden President & CEO Agnes Alves Controller 9Threads One Maynard Drive Park Ridge, NJ 07656 Tel: (201) 571-2244 CONTACT INFO Sales/Editorial Offices One Maynard Drive Park Ridge, NJ 07656 Tel: (646) 278-1550 Fax: (646) 278-1553 Advertising@9Threads.com EditorialRequests@ 9Threads.com Circulation Office One Maynard Drive Park Ridge, NJ 07656 Tel: (201) 571-2244 Circulation@9Threads.com
EARNSHAW’S INFANTS, GIRLS AND BOYS WEAR REVIEW ISSN 0161-2786 (USPS-320-090) The business and fashion magazine of the childrenswear industry is published 10x a year by Wainscot Media, One Maynard Drive Park Ridge, NJ 07656. The publishers of this magazine do not assume responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage is paid in New York, N.Y. and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: U.S. $48; Rates outside U.S. available upon request. Single price copy, $5. Copyright 2011 by Wainscot Media. Postmaster: Send address changes to Earnshaw’s Infants, Girls and Boys Wear Review, P.O. Box 8548, Lowell, MA 01853-8548. Publisher is not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts or photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender. Wainscot Media will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. No portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. Printed in USA.
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EDITOR’S NOTE
The Good News Is… GOOD NEWS IS hard to come by these days. Daily headlines about the unrelenting Covid-19 death count, rising spikes in infection, record unemployment, thousands of businesses going bust and schools nationwide in a quandary over how to reopen (if at all) has the country in the deepest of funks. Making matters more stressful, social unrest has amplified the anger and anxiety levels to an 11. The bad news can be too much to bear at times. It’s why mental health experts advise taking time for family and friends, exercising, eating well, pursuing hobbies and actively seeking out good news. The latter can lower blood pressure and, perhaps best of all, make you laugh, quite possibly the best medicine. So allow me to suggest a few good news sources: John Krasinski’s “Some Good News” YouTube channel, CNN’s “The Good Stuff ” Saturday newsletter, The Washington Post’s “The Daily Break” (an uplifting story per day sent to subscribers’ inboxes) and a host of Instagram profiles, including @sunny_side_news, @goodnews_movement and @upworthy, that deliver good news, in full. Consider it your recommended daily dose of vitamin G! There’s also plenty of good news to be found in this issue of Earnshaw’s. Kevin Murray, president of Rylee + Cru (p. 16), proudly shares the story behind the brand’s first-ever diversity advisory board, part of its ongoing shift to be a more inclusive and inspirational company. What began as backlash on the verge of going viral was turned into a force of good, Murray says. We also polled leading retailers from across the country about their Spring ’21 buying plans. The good news is, yes, they are planning to buy merchandise! Far from doom and gloom, they’re embracing virtual marketplaces in search of fresh brands. They refuse to let the pandemic paralyze them. Similarly, buyers have been taking a proactive approach to the back-to-school season (p. 6), one that’s been turned on its head amid the new normal. The good news is despite many schools shifting to remote learning formats that have eaten into shoes and clothing sales, new opportunities are picking up the slack. Tech, educational toys and loungewear are three examples. More good news: the warm, fuzzy story behind Lucy’s Love Blankets (p. 40), a nonprofit launched in 2017 by 11-year-old Lucy Blaylock. The kid with a big heart sews blankets for children suffering from medical conditions and emotional hardships around
the world. To date, 600 blankets have been shipped to 16 countries and counting. And in the last couple of months, she’s expanded into sewing face masks for front-line workers. Blaylock reveals how the effort has evolved into a family affair, bringing everyone closer while creating a greater good. I remember my parents telling me that when life gives you lemons, make lemonade. I didn’t take too much stock in the colloquial phrase back then, but I see the sweet simplicity to it now. Life can be loaded with lemons, but you have to try and squeeze out some good whenever possible. So with back-to-school, Halloween and the holidays looking like a tsunami of lemons, opportunities still exist. It’s up to us as an industry to find and profit off them. Like Zoom costume parties and virtual pop-ups. New research from Aspire IQ states that 2.5 times more people say they’ll shop exclusively online versus last year. Similarly, Namogoo states that 41 percent of consumers will replace back-to-school in-store shopping with online. And as we approach the holidays, fancy dresses and spiffy Mary Janes may not fly off the shelves like usual, but coordinated PJs and slippers look to be huge sellers, as well as other cozy, stayat-home items. Be sure to read our holiday Trend Watch, “Home for the Holidays” (p. 20) for some good sales opportunities. Indeed, opportunities always abound, and it’s our job to present or create them. Like the latest edition of Earnshaw’s Buyer Box shipping in September! We are bringing a handpicked trade show to the doorsteps of select leading retailers nationwide. Our box is chockful of innovative and enchanting Spring ’21 products for tots to tweens from established brands and some up-andcomers. We’ll also be expanding our engaging webinar series this fall as well as introducing more engaging and informative digital content. Stay tuned. The good news is I firmly believe our industry will get through this lemons-loaded year—just like it has survived previous sour times, be it depressions, recessions, wars and pandemics. Don’t just take my word for it, take it from the magazine that reported on how the industry weathered through the Spanish Flu in 1918 and all the other crises that have been overcome since. Because babies will continue to be born. Children will grow out of clothing. Special occasions and milestones will always be celebrated. And new and exciting trends and products will come to the forefront. It’s all good news for our beloved industry.
E M I LY B E C K M A N Editor-in- Chief
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A Back-to- School Season Like No Other
French Toast’s Got Game! CAPITALIZING on the Animal Crossing craze, schoolwear brand French Toast has created its own virtual island within the trending gaming world by Nintendo. The company has built virtual classrooms that offer on-brand outfits for avatars to choose from, such as its signature three-button polos and an assortment of fashionable face masks. French Toast kicked off back-to-school season by hosting a fashion event recently on its island, inviting kids to join and show off their own in-class or remote learning attire. For players wanting to download the custom designs, the brand’s Creator ID is available on Instagram (@ FrenchToastSchool). “This has truly been a success story,” says Matthew Buesing, vice president of digital marketing, mentioning how easy the process was to create their own clothing line in the game. He also praises the financial benefits of this marketing strategy, noting there’s no cost for a brand to partner with Animal Crossing other than the price of the game itself and a Nintendo gaming system. “We plan on having our island for the long term, continuing to evolve our presence on the platform with new products and capabilities.” Recognizing the importance of gaming in children’s marketing, French Toast recently assembled an internal committee dedicated to researching opportunities in the online entertainment space. In addition to Animal Crossing, the brand boasts a growing presence on popular social media platform TikTok, in addition to plans for other emerging platforms that are popular among children. “As a kids’ clothing company, it’s important to get in front of kids in an authentic way since they wield record levels of influence in their parents’ purchasing decisions,” Buesing says. “The opinion of a kid matters!”
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THE PANDEMIC has tossed the back-to-school selling season into uncharted waters. Retailers have been left to sink or swim, not knowing what to order–or how much–as schools nationwide adapt their learning programs to recommendations that fluctuate on almost a daily basis. On the plus side, the NRF projected spending could hit a record this year as parents feel compelled to spend on technologies like laptops and tablets to prepare for online classes. Parents reportedly plan to spend an average of $789.49, exceeding the 2019 record of $696.70. Deloitte, the retail audit and consulting firm, expects $28.1 billion will be spent on back-to-school items this year, in line with 2019 records. The consultancy agrees tech will be the category that counters any decreases in spending across clothing and traditional school supplies. But the season is off to a rocky start as retailers reel from a lost spring and may be forced to close again this fall. Ascena Retail Group, parent company of tween retailer Justice, filed for bankruptcy in July, while The Children’s Place plans to close 300 stores by the end of next year and expects stores in malls to account for less than 25 percent of its revenue by 2022. For those still hanging on, the back-to-school season is crucial and does present some opportunities. Beth Goldstein, executive director at NPD Group, a retail sales tracking firm, cites backpacks as one category with growth potential. “Parents who are buying backpacks may look for them to provide space for masks and sanitizers, along with other essentials that may no longer be shared within the classroom,” she says. “Last year, we learned that kids’ backpacks are less price-sensitive than many other categories, so parents are not likely to balk at increased prices for added features.” However, Goldstein advises retailers to proceed with caution on inventory. Since last year’s in-person schooling was cut short for many and most camps were canceled this summer, many backpacks may not necessarily need replacing. She therefore advises marketing, promotions and inventory to be more targeted than ever.
Rebecca Bustinduy, owner of Peaches in Atlanta, reports less spending on back-toschool clothing this year, but that there are still many people shopping. “We’ve been selling lots of personalized backpacks and lunchboxes,” she says. “Whether kids are heading to school or staying home, parents still want to have a little something fun for them.” At Buttercup Baby Co. in Las Vegas, owner Brenda Diaz is offsetting the back-to-school sales slump with educational toys. “I have lots of new toys coming in—anything to keep kids learning and entertained,” she says, citing Melissa & Doug products as top sellers. There’s still a good chance masks will be this year’s “It” accessory and, if eventually mandated nationwide, they’ll be an even higher demand as schools open. Although opportunities abound for creative approaches to masking, some school districts plan to enforce restrictive style directives, asking children to wear solid colors with no writings or designs. In turn, retailers are wise to carry a balance of mask styles. In some regions, online dress codes are being implemented on a broader scale. For instance, a school district in Springfield, IL, has updated its policy for remote learning, banning pajamas pants, slippers and hats while on camera. In turn, retailers have found comfy loungewear, tailored enough to pass Zoom protocol, to be smart selections for fall. Balance, speed and adaptations at the local level is how retailers will ace ack-to-school 2020. “At the end of the day, it’s about trying to bring as much normalcy to this new school year as possible,” says Bustinduy.
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Buyers Beware RETAILERS DETAIL HOW THE PANDEMIC IS IMPACTING THEIR BUYS FOR SPRING/SUMMER ’21 AND THE SEASONS AHEAD. BY EM ILY B E CK M A N
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HILE MOST TRADE shows go digital (at least for the remainder of 2020) and many reps refrain from making in-store visits, virtual shopping is the only recourse for shopping Spring/Summer ’21 collections. It’s why virtual platforms like Zoom, NuOrder
fit, and verifying exact colors—means buyers must trust their eyes and ears that what they bought virtually verifies upon delivery. Of course, there are no guarantees. There are also hopes for a return to normalcy, i.e. attending trade shows, once a vaccine arrives. And there are those who believe the industry will never be the same again—virtual buying is here to stay.
and Faire have become household names within the industry as buyers and wholesalers adapt on the fly amid a pandemic-induced new world order. Eliminating the full-on sensory aspects to buying—be it reviewing materials, judging quality and
Here, five retailers from across the country reveal ways the pandemic is changing how they buy, when they buy, what they’re buying and from who, and what the future for buying may hold. One thing is for sure: buying will never be the same again.
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SHANLEE JOHNSON Little Birdies Boutique Washington, D.C. How’s your SS21 planning going? I just had a virtual appointment with a showroom in Atlanta, and it wasn’t too bad. Everything is so advanced now. If you hold the camera up close enough to the fabric, a buyer can get a pretty good idea of the feel and fit. It’s also important to get feedback from showroom owners. I mean, would I prefer to touch and feel the garment myself? Of course! But this works for now. What are you focusing on for next spring ? I’ve changed my buy almost completely. In the past, we’ve done a lot more formal, dressy pieces. For Spring ’21, I cut formal wear back significantly and swapped it for everyday pieces. Play clothes, pajamas and baby gifts—that’s where it’s at. Plus lots of accessories. Just like you’re seeing in women’s fashion, we’re focusing on knot headbands, pearl barrettes and tortoiseshell clips.
Are toys and games still flying off the shelves? Definitely. We’re selling more home activities than ever before, such as puzzles and DIY necklaces from Gunner & Lux. Sunnylife has also been a great resource, offering fishing games and cool pool floats. Baby is another category that’s going strong. Babies are still being born, so we’re doing lots of gift-wrapped bundles. Showers will continue to happen—even if they’re virtual. Are you hesitant to bring in new brands, especially ones you can’t shop in-person? Not as much as you might think. I always go back to the brands I have good relationships with, but I love finding new, small brands to mix in. I’m a small business myself, so I like supporting someone else working hard and putting themselves out there. I find a lot of those smaller brands on Faire. I’m obsessed with that site! How has your private label collection been impacted by the pandemic? It’s been challenging. We manufacture in Peru, and they’re working with a very small staff and are barely able to get it all done. We had to chop our order in half. At this point, we’re just taking things day by day.
What are you doing to make sure Little Birdies stands out from its competition? Being closed for so long, I really had the opportunity to change things up. I began by focusing more on our online business, which means adding more customizable options to our site. We will be offering custom intarsia sweaters as well as engraving options for spoons, cups, hairbrushes, rattles, the list goes on. Customers are now also able to monogram anything from our site.
video for all of their stores, so at 11 p.m. I could watch, pausing and playing it at my convenience. I had NuOrder on one screen and the video on another. They also sent most of their retailers a swatch book, so I could see and feel the new materials. Now that is what it looks like to pivot as a really strong brand.
What is your gut feeling on next year? I’m feeling good about it. January is always such a pitiful month for us coming off of Christmas, but I definitely feel confident about February and March. In fact, I’ve What might the pandemic’s longinvested more into Spring ’21 clothterm effects on buying be? I’m ing than ever. We’ve been really hoping for a reset on deliveries. We fortunate to not only maintain don’t need 10 different collections our local customer base, but we’ve per season, nor is it necessary for captured so many new customers retailers to start receiving fall merduring the shutdown through our chandise in early July only to have Maggie Tucker, owner of Magpies Baby and Magpies Girl online store. With so many new it on sale by September. Consumers clients on board with us, I need to curate enough inventory for my are shopping closer to season, so if someone needs a sweater in the stores as well as more online sales. middle of February, I think they should be able to shop sweaters without a bunch of spring clothes crowding them. Moving forward, I hope What are you buying? We’re looking at a lot of practical pieces. I what’s in store will begin to match the actual temperature outside. haven’t bought anything fancy, no special occasion items. I’m sure our top performers will continue to be everyday basics for baby and child, which means lots of easy-to-wear options: leggings, joggers, sweatpants, MAGGIE TUCKER etc. Comfort is key through 2021. Kickee Pants, for example, had its best Owner release yet for Spring ’21. Rylee + Cru’s 2021 collections are amazing, Magpies Baby and Magpies Girl as well. I’ve never spent so much money with them! For swimwear, I’m Nashville, TN loving everything from Shade Critters. Those three brands so far are my largest buys. I’ve spent over $10,000 with them per delivery, and How is your SS21 planning differing from your usual procedure? they each have multiple deliveries. I know I can rely on those three It’s frustrating. I used to breeze through a showroom in 10 minutes, brands to have quality fabric and exceptional fit. make picks from multiple lines and move on. It’s all about Zoom appointments these days, which are no less than an hour. But I know What online ordering platforms have you enjoyed the most? I’m it’s not just the retailer who is struggling with this new system. It’s just loving NuOrder, but I’m also writing a ton of orders on Faire. Retailers as hard on the brands! They’re having to show collections individually love it because you don’t have to pay your invoice for 60 days. You can to every buyer over and over and over, all day long! also place reorders online, 24 hours a day, seven days a week. The only downside is every Tom, Dick and Harry in town will have a brand from What approach do you prefer in a Zoom appointment? I’m not there. Faire doesn’t provide the same protection you would get from every buyer, but I prefer when a brand has the line hung up and then an independent sales rep. just stands back, panning the entire collection while I make a selection. I’ll just tell the rep, ‘Second one, fourth one, fifth one…Okay, now can I Anything else that might improve your virtual buying experience? see them all hung together?’ That works best for me. However, I’d say One of the biggest challenges is half the stuff we see isn’t actually on a the best ‘appointment’ I’ve had during this pandemic was with Rylee kid. It’s just a flat lay. When you look at a women’s digital line sheet, the + Cru, and it wasn’t even an appointment! They created a pre-made
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babies are still being born. Pandemic or not, parents can’t bring their baby home without a car seat. The challenge becomes convincing families to buy from us instead of Amazon or Nordstrom. It’s much safer to shop at a 900-square-foot boutique than at a mall. In addition, I doubt those competitors will be able to answer product questions with the same depth my employees can. Plus, we’re CPST-certified to not only ensure the customer buys the right car seat, but we’ll install it for you properly.
clothes are always on a model, and most offer videos as well. I understand that Covid-19 has made photo shoots more difficult, but many brands, such as Shade Critters and Rylee + Cru, were able to pull it off nicely. In my opinion, it’s worth a shot because you’ll sell more in the long run. Do you think you’ll ever feel safe enough to attend a trade show inperson? Absolutely! I can’t wait to go to a market. It’s triple the workload buying for an entire season without stepping into a showroom or walking the aisles of a trade show. I’m also a big believer in those buyer/vendor relationships, which are often fostered at market. I can’t wait to confidently tell my customer again, ‘I love this product. I handpicked it at market for you.’
Is there a must-have item for babies during the pandemic? Carriers. Now that everyone is at home, I tell moms all the time to consider a carrier. Many are so focused on strollers and car seats they forget the importance of being able to carry Baby around the house with two hands free! I’m a huge fan of the Ergobaby Embrace.
PHEWFULA FREDERIKSEN Owner Happy Mango Atlanta, GA
If a trade show opened next month, would you attend? I’m not going anywhere this year. I don’t know exactly what is going to make me Phewfula Frederiksen, owner of Happy Mango, with her kids comfortable enough to travel at this How is your SS21 buy going? I’ve point. I don’t even think a vaccine is been doing a lot online, which stinks the answer, necessarily. People just need to stay home. Cases need to because I haven’t been able to see many products. I’m not bringing in go down. People need to be responsible. Period. as many new lines as I would have if I went to trade shows, but even with that limitation I’ve actually brought in quite a few new lines. Most are brands with big Instagram followings, which means I know LISA WASHINGTON customers are looking for them. Taylor + Max Rockton, IL What ‘Insta-famous’ finds have you ordered? Slumberkins is one I recently ordered. It has a range You are allowed to welcome customers inside but of learning toys. Bibs’ pacifiers was another good aren’t yet. Why? It’s my choice. I’m not 100-percent purchase of late. I also brought in a new European comfortable opening with pregnant moms walking in line, Konges Slojd. here. I have private one-on-one shopping sessions and curbside pickup, which continues to work well. How has the pandemic affected your spring planMy customers have really enjoyed the individualized ning and budgeting? I’ve been taking things day by attention and less crowded shopping environment. day, month by month. What’s going to happen when/ So far, everyone has been incredibly understanding if kids go back to school? What’s going to happen and supportive. after that? We just have no idea, so I’m being very cautious. I’m not comfortable planning anything too Will you be attending any upcoming virtual far in advance. The only brands I’ve booked up until shows? Yes, I will be checking out Children’s Club December are Angel Dear and Quincy Mae. and Playtime’s online editions. I feel like we’re going to see more of this hybrid buying environment going What items do you expect to sell well through Lisa Washington, owner forward, so it’s important to start getting used to it now. 2021? Our industry serves the needs of children, and of Taylor + Max
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Do you think the pandemic will have a long-term effect on the buying cycle? It’s hard to buy immediates in children’s right now, so I expect to see more frequent drops ahead. It’s already happening in some of the bigger brands, like Mini Rondini, Bobo Choses and Rylee + Cru. BARB WRIGHT The Bull and The Bee Portland, OR Will you be attending any upcoming virtual shows? Yes, I’ll try it. I think it’ll be helpful. It will give me the opportunity to participate in more shows than I normally would.
Barb Wright, owner of The Bull and The Bee
Has the pandemic affected your SS21 planning? Oh, big time. Many of my brands are struggling with their production houses running behind. I’m in the middle of writing orders now, and I’m looking at everything so carefully—line by line. It’s going to be a tough season, no doubt. What categories are you emphasizing ? Gift items and baby products. I mean, the world has been quarantined for months, so you can expect there’s going to be a lot more babies soon! I’m buying more layette and shower gifts. As for the bigger kids, it’s all about comfy loungewear. Any brands that you expect to perform well? Rylee + Cru will continue to be a top seller for me. It’s one of those comfy, non-fussy lines that moms love. Another, more niche brand that always does extremely well is Misha & Puff. It’s higher end, but moms absolutely love the gorgeous Pima cotton and merino wool designs. How do you expect customer behavior to shift over the next few months? Moms buy what they love. Period. However, I do see more moms holding back because of just how uncertain things are right now. It ultimately comes down to listening closely to your customers. Don’t be afraid to ask them directly what brands they’d like to see.
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What’s your biggest concern about buying for SS21? That I’m going to miss something. It’s difficult to buy lines virtually, particularly ones with several print and body styles. It’s important to let reps be your eyes and ears these days, but even the reps don’t necessarily have samples at this point! It comes down to relying on what the line has been historically, and if something is too new, it may not be worth taking the risk. Seeing fabric swatches would help. What’s most important to your virtual buying experience? Searchability is very important. I want a digital marketplace to make it easy for me to find new brands. I’ve been using Faire a lot recently. I like it because it’s simple. Your credit card is in there, and it’s wonderful for discovering new brands. Plus, they have net 60 terms. Can’t complain! Do you see your buying strategy shifting in the future? Yes. I would like to buy more immeadiates. There are a few brands I’m buying more conservatively now, but if they had immeadiates that would be very helpful in such an uncertain climate. Is anyone going back to school? What’s going to happen after that? No one knows! So, if there’s ever immeadiates available, I would surely snatch those up. Who are your most trusted vendors? Kickee Pants and Magnetic Me always sell well for gift. Angel Dear is another popular one, especially its adorable little rompers! City Mouse is a top seller, and customers have really been loving the bubble-butt rompers for boys. I’m stocking up on those! Baby gear has also been selling like crazy. I’ve found that many places have low inventory when it comes to gear, so I’ve been getting calls from across the country to order one-offs that they can’t find anywhere else. •
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REFLECTIONS
True Colors KEVIN MURRAY, PRESIDENT OF RYLEE + CRU, ON THE CRITICISMS THE COMPANY RECEIVED AT THE START OF THE ANTI-RACISM MOVEMENT AND ALL IT IS DOING TO ADDRESS THEM. BY EMILY BECKMAN IT WAS EARLY June, and the negative commentary was quickly escalating across Rylee + Cru’s social media channels. Long exchanges between followers, particularly on Instagram, revealed deep frustration with the company’s perceived lack of diversity over the years. Several customers criticized campaign images, called out staff personally and even proclaimed they would be boycotting the brand. Kevin Murray, president of Rylee + Cru, knew his company had to act fast. Founded in 2014, Murray and his team had worked hard to build the California-based children’s line of earthy, high-quality basics. The company has grown exponentially, with thousands of customers and hundreds of stockists internationally. Abruptly faced with such hostility (potentially as devastating as the global pandemic), Rylee + Cru’s team was determined to quickly address the accusations. The effort was spearheaded by the creation of a diversity advisory board, featuring Black retailers and consumers. “Once we had the first meeting, we all got really excited about how this whole experience could be flipped upside down for the greater good,” Murray says. “What might have started as real discouragement can be turned around to be something so positive, not only our company but for us as individuals, too. We’re now grateful
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for the experience.” Here, Murray reflects on the initial shock and the action it took to reposition Rylee + Cru to be a more inclusive and diverse company. HARD FEELINGS: “The experience was very eye-opening for all of us. When the backlash appeared in threads across our social channels in June, we spent a few days trying to really grasp what people were saying about our brand and our marketing. Internally, we knew we had been making baby steps in the direction of diversity and inclusion in our photography. We knew the AW20 season was filled with more diverse images than we had ever produced. But these images had not yet been released, so people did not have that reference when looking at our social media and website. Nevertheless, we quickly realized there was so much more that could and should be done.” S E A R C H I N G F O R S O LU T I O N S : “When the backlash began, we figured we had three options. 1. Stay silent and not engage. 2. Try to defend ourselves with examples of how we thought we were showing more diversity. 3. Spend a few days thinking about all that was being said and see how we could learn from it. There was a bit too much of number two in our initial response, unfortunately. However,
once we took a step back, we began to learn from the experience on a deeper level.” TAKING ACTION: “It was on the fourth day where we officially responded with an action plan and a purpose for how we would proceed. This post was the start of creating guidelines for our brand going forward. A few highlights were to be transparent about what charitable causes we donate to, to establish a giving section on our website and to create a diversity advisory board for present and future decisions.” SEEKING OUTSIDE ADVICE: “The advisory board was by far the best thing we did to respond and to learn. Within a week, we assembled six intelligent and passionate Black women who enthusiastically volunteered to be part of this process. Four of the board members are current store owners and wholesale customers of Rylee + Cru, and the other two are online customers who were voices of criticism on social media. We kicked off this board with an hour-anda-half Zoom meeting. Each member got to share not only their present thoughts about our brand but how they felt watching us over the past few years. All of their comments were filled with grace and encouragement, but they did not hold back on what they perceived as our lack of diversity.” MAKING PROGRESS: “We have shared many subsequent emails that helped shape our action plan. That includes starting an official Rylee
+ Cru Facebook group to make sure the voice of our brand is heard from people who work here every day; hiring a person of color to be part of our internal marketing team who can shed light on all the things we talk about on social media; developing a national network of influencers to be part of our growing diverse community; leaning on these influencers to help source models, moms and families to be part of future marketing efforts; and looking for diversity and inclusion in the organizations we financially support, including Facing History and Ourselves, The Conscious Kid, The Loveland Foundation and Hugs and Bags.” STAYING THE COURSE: “There was a lot of communication with the board in the first few weeks and, going forward, it will be a quarterly check-up to make sure we are all on task and moving forward together.” LESSONS LEARNED: “In looking back, I regret the slowness of our official response. Four days can be an eternity in social media and, in that time, so many threads went in different directions. We could have done better by acting quicker and more decisively. I also think the biggest lesson we learned from this experience is what we say and what we do really matters to people. We are humbled there is a Rylee + Cru community out there that cares about who we are and what we do. Moving forward, we’ve made a deep commitment to honesty and transparency in this community that we love more than we can say.”
www.feather4arrow.com :: julie@feather4arrow.com :: 410.991.2557
BEHIND THE SEAMS
In the Swim
Feather 4 Arrow suits up for a challenging year.
WHEN THE COVID-19 pandemic hit, lifestyle brand Feather 4 Arrow was in the middle of shipping its Spring 2020 orders. After ensuring her staff was safe and following the prevailing CDC recommendations, Jaime Riese, founder and CEO, focused squarely on her customers by moving all inventory from their warehouses to the team’s office. “It was the only way we’d be able to seamlessly and safely continue to deliver to our clients,” she says, noting the process allowed her team to maintain direct control over every piece of merchandise shipped. Unsure when or if everything would return to normal, the team began focusing on online sales, connecting with customers to build a supportive community, specifically through social media. “We invited followers to share stories and photos of their loved ones on the frontlines, as well as post pictures of their friends and family in our clothing,” Riese says. “The response was amazing!” In May, the company appointed president Julie M. Rich, an indus-
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try veteran who served as Snapper Rock’s vice president of sales and operations for over 16 years. Admiring Rich’s ability to develop and launch Snapper Rock’s global wholesale organization, Riese seized the opportunity to bring Rich aboard. “I have always felt swim fits into who we are as a brand,” Riese says. “When I brought Julie on, she really encouraged me to step out of my comfort zone and create a collection that is larger and more encompassing than we’ve ever created in the past.” For Spring 2020, Feather 4 Arrow made a splash with a capsule swim collection and will offer its first Resort collection in November. “This is our largest swim assortment,” says Riese, citing a wide selection of casual, easy pieces to mix-and-match with swim, like classic vintage tees, shorts, lightweight cover-ups, rompers and dresses. “We want our buyers to see, feel and understand we’re creating a lifestyle brand like no other.”
What makes your swimwear unique? We offer something for everyone while still staying true to our brand. Julie and I focused on designing and curating a collection for 2021 that would work with our changing world, bringing an innovative freshness to the market. For boys, we designed stretch boardshorts made from recycled coconuts and plastic. The material is not only super comfortable, but also anti-bacterial, odorfighting, lightweight and fast-drying. For girls, we’re offering many reversible styles, providing great value to our customers.
factories to source the best upcycled and recycled materials, along with ensuring the highest quality sun-protective fabrics. We rely on only the best materials.
How have buyers responded so far? The feedback has been extremely positive. The prints are a big hit. I’m particularly excited about our girls’ offerings and the addition of tween. We really try to keep the pulse of men’s and women’s fashion, adapting sophisticated prints and colors for kidfriendly designs.
Where do you see Feather 4 Arrow in five years? We hope to be a global leader in outdoor lifestyle apparel, supported by a multicultural team across the world. As we grow, we strive to remain mindful of our core identity and the needs of those we serve. What advice do you have for fellow business owners during this difficult time? There is no guarantee in business or in life. You must adapt to your customers’ needs and your environment. Approach everything you do with humility, grit and determination.
NYC
FASHION HAPPENS FIRST!
No Tradeshow, NO WORRIES! SHOP OUR NYC SHOWROOMS
NEW YORK STRONG
34 West 33rd St
(floors: 3rd/9th/10th/12th)
MONDAY – FRIDAY: 9 – 5pm
Looking for a special time to come?
Just call each participating showroom to schedule your one-on-one shopping experience.
NYC Market Weeks! August 17 – 20th September 21 – 24th
PARTICIPATING SHOWROOMS
! NYKIDSMARKET " @NYKIDSMARKET
A Bit Of Honey Ali’s Market Appaman Bon Bebe EGG new york
Flowers By Zoe Imoga Isaac Mizrahi Lola Jo Lynn Meyer
Nancy Markert / Amy Hoffman LC Collection Rabbit + Bear The Rose Garden The Showroom
T H I S PAG E : P H OTOG RA P H Y BY MIC H EL L E N ICOL E
What’s the biggest trend in swimwear of late? Sustainability and UPF50+ sun protection. It’s so important to find ways to ethically produce our product. We are continually working with our
How has Rich’s experience influenced your swimwear collections? Julie’s wealth of knowledge and expertise in the industry has brought a fresh new perspective. She knows what buyers and the end consumer want, and that is invaluable when you’re designing and merchandising a new collection.
TREND WATCH
Home for the Holidays SANTA BETTER BE wearing PPE before coming down chimneys this year. With a vaccine to prevent Covid-19 likely unavailable until 2021, most traditional gatherings— like tree lightings, parades, concerts and local markets— have been put on hold while we prepare for a holiday season at home. Retailers, in turn, are swapping out embroidered velvet dresses and shiny Mary Janes for comfy loungewear, printed pajamas and light-up slippers. Holiday-themed toys, games and activity sets are topping wish lists to encourage safe and spirited fun for the whole family.
No Slippy Hair Clippy menorah clip
Asher & Emery light-up hat Magnetic Me family pajamas
Marais Sky tulle dress
Cheengoo rattles
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Pajamas for Peace tree pajamas Little Olin holiday outfits Mandala Baby reindeer one-piece Mud Pie shirt
New Jammies pajamas
2 0 2 0 A U G U S T/ S E P T E M B E R • E A R N S H AW S . C O M
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TREND WATCH
Bamboo-tiful! WHILE COTTON HAS always been popular with kids, it uses large quantities of water to process and requires significant manpower to harvest.Bamboo is a sustainable alternative, spiking in popularity across apparel, accessories, toys and gear. It offers equal or greater quality with a much friendlier ecological footprint.
Panda Baby gift bundle Avanchy feeding set
January Moon clip-on teether
Brush with Bamboo travel toothbrushes
Babysoy footed one-piece
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Natemia robe
Ettitude hooded waffle blanket
Silkberry Baby panda one-piece
Maison Chic swaddle
Zion wears Saint Maddox one-piece and Mud Pie goggles. 25
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Clockwise from left: George wears Toobydoo swim trunks; Novaa wears Shade Critters sequin one-piece; Lilly wears Feather 4 Arrow rainbow bikini. 27
George wears Toobydoo polka dot trunks. Opposite page: Lilly wears Blueberry Bay two-piece. 28
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Novaa wears Shade Critters tutu one-piece. Opposite page, clockwise from left: Eloise wears Shade Critters flamingo one-piece; Mud Pie goggles; George wears Molo penguin boardshorts. 31
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Georgia wears Planet Sea ruffle one-piece. Opposite page: George wears Planet Sea trunks. 33
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Lilly wears Toobydoo striped halter one-piece. Opposite page, from top: Novaa wears Feather 4 Arrow jungle cat one-piece; Zion wears Shade Critters tropical one-piece. Photography by Leigh Webber/Dive In by Leigh Webber; styling by Elisabeth Hunter; photography assistance by Bryan Deel. 35
footwear report
SPRING / SUMMER 2021
Easy Does It A fusion of fashion and function delivers versatility and value.
RAINBOW CONNECTION Why pick one color when you can have them all?
ATHLETIC BUILD Edgy color-blocking and chunky soles upgrade the standard sneaker to sporty-chic.
Bearpaw
Reebok
Skechers
TO DYE FOR Modern twists on the groovy hand-spun treatment range from shibori to starburst.
Nanette Lepore Star Textil
B Y E M I LY B E C K M A N
Kensie Girl
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Merrell
SLIP IN SLIDES A ’90s revival for the sand to the streets.
Jan & Jul
Gola
Polo Ralph Lauren
Hoo Shoes
Keds
HEAR THEM ROAR
SOCK VALUE
From cheetah to leopard, big cat prints continue to be fiercely popular.
Light, breathable and versatile, knit sneakers equally offer comfort and performance.
Kensie Girl
Buy One, Give One, Empower One Meet us at Children’s Club! www.pajamasforpeace.com @pajamasforpeace
Eco-friendly. Organic. Sustainable.
MY TURN
7 Ways Brick-and-Mortars Can Conquer Covid-19 Challenges WITH THE PROSPECT of the pandemic continuing for the foreseeable future, many retailers are searching for clues on how to act most effectively. It doesn’t help that when you have a physical store, you’re subjected to unrelenting stories like how department stores are dinosaurs, small businesses are closing and online business is our future. However, while those kinds of doom-andgloom articles may get clicks, online selling is not the magic pill it is billed as to combat COVID-19 challenges. Besides the 30-40 percent return rate, expensive shipping costs and fleeting loyalty, there’s new evidence customer expectations are not being met. Thomas Robertson, professor of marketing at The Wharton School of the University of Pennsylvania, reports 66 percent of consumers complained about at least one issue on their last online shopping trip this last quarter, up from only 10 percent in the first three months of the year. Chief among the complaints were having to purchase an item online and pay shipping to return it, difficulties navigating websites and apps, not being able to return items without the original receipt and only being able to purchase the item they wanted online instead of at a nearby store. Robertson issued a caution to retailers regarding customers who participate in loyalty programs based on shopping online. “Members of loyalty programs tend to have higher expectations and therefore experience more problems than that of non-members,” he says. “We believe that this is because members typically are more engaged and
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have higher customer lifetime value than non-loyalty members. Losing loyalty program members may lead to long-term degradation to the brand and may have significant financial impact to the retailer.” Keeping that in mind, there are still several new and inventive ways to deal with the COVID-19 pandemic through your physical store. Here’s some ideas to get you started. I MP L E M EN T IN G Q R CO D ES Jonny Cota, the winner of Amazon’s “Making the Cut,” has visitors scanning a QR code upon entering his new store in Los Angeles. It launches a friendly welcome video by Cota, which tells shoppers about the brand and COVID-19 rules. He also lets customers shop a gallery-like space via a virtual tour or in real life, using their phones and QR codes as a guide to scan styles, see them on models and add them to a digital cart that can be shipped or fulfilled in-store. AD DI NG IN -HOU SE CO NTAC T T RAC IN G Every retailers’ nightmare is having to close due to someone testing positive for COVID-19. In a recent Coresight webinar, Tractor Supply’s Glenn Allison spoke about how they are providing contact tracing for the company’s 1,700 stores, distribution centers and support centers. They want to quickly know who someone came in contact with, so they can pick up where government has left off. R E M OV I NG DO UBT One of the problems with curbside and BOPIS is finding ways for the consumer to know what to do. Target has easy-to-follow instructions that are everywhere, including how to download their app right on their sign.
CU RTAI LI N G O RD E RS Shoppers will be frustrated with out-of-stocks this holiday season; you can bet on it. But retailers don’t want to have to keep the discounts they’ve been using to unload spring merchandise, to continue into the holidays. Levi Strauss & Co. CEO and president Chip Bergh says, “I would actually rather leave a sale on the table—miss a sale—because we don’t have product, than to have a glut of product that you then would have to mark down.” BU I LD I NG CO MM U NI TY ON TH E SID EWA LK With CDC guidance on limited occupancy, many retailers are having to make shoppers wait at 6-foot intervals by using stickers on the sidewalk. According to Dave Bruno on the Aptos blog, London’s Notting Hill Fish Shop has set up folding chairs to let people sit and socialize while waiting in line. “Shoppers have taken to the idea and fallen in love with the ability to socialize while social distancing.” HIRING INFLUENCERS: In an effort to convince more shoppers to enter its stores, Nordstrom has debuted an influencer campaign that promotes its in-store coronavirus safety precautions. The department store giant recently hired Instagram influencers to visit and take photos inside its New York flagship store. Wendy Nguyen, one fashion influencer, told followers that visiting Nordstrom was refreshing because “everyone was wearing masks, practicing social distancing and were incredibly kind. Even shoppers, strangers as we were, stopped and had meaningful conversations.” EX PAN D I NG MA RKETS Katz’s Delicatessen in New York was featured in a recent Business Insider video sharing how they looked to their heritage and expanded their markets during the crisis from just one local New York icon to reach direct-to-consumers across the country. The options to reach new markets has never been easier to scale. Stores are also pivoting to get associates to text and email their local customers about new products and services. Bob Phibbs, a.k.a. The Retail Doctor, is an internationally recognized business strategist, customer service expert, sales coach, marketing mentor, author of three books, and motivational business speaker. He is a Top Voice on LinkedIn with 400k followers. His popular online retail sales training program SalesRX is leading double-digit increases for his clients. For more information, visit retaildoc.com.
@planetseaswim planet-sea.com 305- 345 6559
FINAL CUT
Warm Regards Eleven-year-old Lucy Blaylock, founder of nonprofit Lucy’s Love Blankets, supports children in need, one blanket at a time. By Aleda Johnson IT’S OFTEN SIMPLE things that bring the most comfort—a warm cup of tea, a thoughtful greeting card or, as recipients of Lucy’s Love Blankets would agree, a homemade blanket. When the Gallatin, TN, native was taught to sew in 2017, she gifted a flannel blanket to a friend for her birthday. “I like the feeling of making others feel good,” Blaylock says. “That’s how I got the idea to make blankets for kids who needed a little extra love during hard times.” Blaylock brought the idea to her parents, urging them to help her organize a giveaway. Her mom was supportive, sharing the idea on Instagram (@lucysloveblankets). The campaign quickly gained traction, receiving a total of 16 nominations from families with children suffering from a variety of medical conditions and other emotional hardships. “I couldn’t just pick one kid to help,” Blaylock recalls. “So I begged my mom to let me make blankets for all of them!” Since the first giveaway three years ago, Blaylock has made nearly 600 blankets for children in 16 countries around the world. She reviews nominations sent by families, learning as much as she can about each child before selecting a pattern. “I especially like when people send pictures of their child because you really get an idea of what they would like,” she explains. “Like, if a boy is wearing camo, you can tell he likes camo!” Popular designs have included sloths, cactuses, unicorns, mermaids and monkeys. Blaylock spends hours pinning, sewing and topping each blanket off with a signature hand-stitched heart appliqué. Each blanket also comes with a poem that reads: I have lots of love I’d like to share. So I made you a blanket to show I care. When you’re feeling down and lonely at night, just look at this blanket and snuggle it tight. Whether you’re happy or sad, or just feeling blue, I hope this reminds you that someone loves you! Love, Lucy. Since the COVID-19 pandemic hit, Blaylock expanded her efforts to sew masks for workers on the front lines. “Masks are much quicker than blankets,” she says, mentioning how the whole family gets together on Sundays to work around the dining room table. The youngest of nine siblings, Blaylock says her
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Beyond her sucessful nonprofit, here Blaylock shares more details about her personal interests as well as what it’s like being a sixth grader in a pandemic. How’s school going? We’re doing hybrid schooling where they split the grade in half. Half go Monday and Tuesday, and the others do Thursday and Friday. Wednesday we all do Zoom. What is your at-school fashion style? I’m pretty laidback, so I’m always in leggings or high-waisted, ripped jeans. We live in the south, so a lot of the girls dress very girly, but I’ve always liked stuff that’s more edgy. My favorite shirts are the kind with the knots in front. What color do you wear most? Mustard and olive green.
FA S T FAV E S TV show: “The Suite Life on Deck” Movies: Mulan, Beauty and the Beast and Little Women Celebrity: Kristen Bell, Ariana Grande and Dove Cameron Song: “Geronimo” by Sheppard Animal: Sloths and koalas Food: Chick-fil-A Game: Monopoly, but it’s so long nobody wants to play!
family is quite an efficient team. “Everyone has a job—cutting, pinning, sewing,” she says. “It’s fun and makes everyone feel good.” Blaylock’s philanthropic efforts have earned her several awards, including the Governor’s Volunteer Stars Award, the President’s Volunteer Service Award and the Prudential Spirit of Community Award. But connecting with the families who receive her blankets is what warms her heart most. “We keep in touch on social media and stay friends with a lot of them,” she says, adding that parents of the kids often find support through one another online. “It’s more than blankets—it’s a community.”
Do you accessorize often? Yes. I wear earrings, necklaces and layered bracelets. I also like thick headbands. What about shoes? I like the classics—Vans, Converse and Adidas. What trends are you noiticng among your friends? Birkenstocks are still big, which I also love. Paperbag-waisted pants are popular. I also still see tennis shoes with dresses a lot. Have you done any shopping since Covid19 hit? I do all of my shopping online now. We usually go to Old Navy, but this year we got fancy and did some shopping at Justice and H&M. We basically looked for where we could find back-to-school sales. Any advice for kids looking to volunteer? Definitely go for it. It’s feels so good to spend time helping kids who need it. You’re going to make friends and feel good about what you do every day. How can people support Lucy’s Blankets? Donations are a huge help to cover shipping costs and supplies. To donate, visit @ LucysLoveBlankets on Instagram and click the Venmo link in the description. Thanks!