The luxury lifestyle magazine devoted to Swiss Made excellence
White Turf Jean Tinguely Davidooff unwrapped Exclusive Spa resorts CHF 10 / USD 9 / EUR 7
Meteo - Relative and absolute pressure
Altimeter (Matterhorn 4478m) Altitude Difference Meter
Chrono - Timer
Compass - Azimuth (Heading)
Perpetual calendar - 2 Time zones
More than a watch Tissot, Innovators by Tradition.
Titanium, Scratchproof tactile sapphire crystal, Swiss ETA movement, Water resistant to 100m/330ft
Dear Readers, Time has come to sit back and relax! If you hold this magazine in your hands, chances are that you finally have found a moment to enjoy some well-deserved and longawaited quality time. Whether with your lover, your family, your friends or just yourself (as we often forget), this winter issue invites you to join us for a special journey as we bring you some fresh ideas of where to spend some of that quality time in the magical landscapes of Switzerland.
“Time is the moving synbol of montionless eternity” Plato
If you, like us, have been fantasizing all year about being pampered with massages and spa treatments but also striving to satisfy your appetite with special delicacies, you will discover in these pages some of Switzerland’s exclusive destinations, international awardwinning spa resorts and gourmet suggestions. With time off from work, it’s time to indulge your body and mind! “For the first several millennia of human existence, our conception of time was rather abstract, based on the cycles of the sun and seasons but little else. Modern man, however, shares a much more intimate relationship with time, the commodity that has emerged as the most precious in our lives. In order to measure it, we invented the timepiece. In order to meet it, the automobile.”
Special attention also has been given to some of Switzerland’s most exclusive and one-of-akind events, such as the White Turf and the St. Moritz Polo World Cup on Snow. Spending quality time being the priority, you also might want to spend on, or better, invest in time! Even in this period of economic turmoil, watches at auctions have proven that Swiss Made timepieces are and remain true and reliable investments. Whether you are buying a car, a watch, a jewel or an artwork, you want to be reassured that your investment has solid grounds, and what stronger ground than a pedigree of excellence? We strive to bring you a continuous quest for excellence in these pages. As another year comes to a close, the least we can say is that 2009 has been quite an interesting year from which we probably have learned a few lessons. Now we can start fresh and positive with a New Year, that I wish all of you to be a very joyful and happy one! Enjoy your reading! Massimiliano Pantieri
For those of you who like horses, speed, steam and sturdiness, Noah Joseph, our automotive expert and wordsmith, offers you insight into the world of wonder machines on wheels.
Staff Editor Massimiliano Pantieri Creative Director Sherry Williams International Watch Editor Keith W. Strandberg Graphic Designer Marco Gonzalez Angel Gonzalez Office Operations Manager Mara Carboni Photographers TONY DURAN - Art of Time John Barneson - Macy’s Passport Cover TONY DURAN for Swiss Made Magazine
Contributors Keith W. Strandberg Noah Joseph Claudia Laffranchi Susan Robinson April Boland Lord Martine Sherry Williams Kerstin Alm Fabio Texeira Printing HERTIG Druck AG Editorial office Swiss Made Magazine Via Taiada 50 6517 Arbedo (TI) Switzerland
Contacts firstname.lastname@example.org email@example.com Published by Bespoke Communication Sarl
Exclusive distribution in luxury hotels, exclusive boutiques, airport and executive lounges, golf resorts, private limousine services, Swiss embassies, special events and exhibitions. The magazine is also available at selected newsstands and bookshelfs.
All the published material has been provided by the mentioned brands. Therefore, Swiss Made Magazine cannot be responsible for copyright issues and assumes no responsibility on inaccurate information or changes in the products or prices displayed. Copyright by SwissMade Magazine. Reproduction or use of the content in whole or in part without the written permission of the editor is strictly prohibited.
To subscribe for your own personal copy and discover the latest issues of Swiss Made DELUXE, visit: www.swissmademagazine.com
16 SWISS MADE magazine DELUXE
TOP EVENTS 8
White Turf - St. Moritz Polo World Cup on Snow
Haute Horlogerie 16 Jaeger LeCoultre Hybris Mechanica
Innovations 20 Noteworthy timepieces
Cars 26 Green Power
Photography 34 Art of Time by Tony Duran
Art 48 Jean Tinguely
Portrait 52 Traveling the world with Zino Davidoff
Prestige 56 Bugatti Galibier
Haute Joaillerie 60 Precious Moments
Elegance 64 Longines Prima Luna
68 Come Togehter for a cause
Red Carpet 72 Stars & Luxury
Travel 76 Discover Switzerland
Wellness 84 Tschuggen Bergoase
88 Tradition and modernity
Heritage 92 Victorinox - 125 years on the cutting edge
Accessories 96 A sophisticated â&#x20AC;&#x153;noseâ&#x20AC;?
sm top events
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Set against the magnificent alpine backdrop of the Upper Engadine, the high society of horse racing come together and enjoy St. Moritz’s proverbial ‘champagne climate’. White Turf, the modern-day horse racing meeting, is renowned far beyond the Swiss borders, is the fascination of the noble thoroughbreds from all over Europe that fly across the flattest racecourse in the world, carrying international jockeys sporting the colours of prestigious racing stables.
WHITE TURF 9
Staged since 1907 in its firmly established tradition, White Turf offer a multitude of spectacular events. The gallop and trotting races with noble thoroughbreds from all parts of Europe and international jockeys. On three Sundays in February, more than 30,000 spectators from all over the world flock to the frozen expanse of the Lake of St. Moritz to witness the excitement and entertainment of the races against the magnificent backdrop of the mountains of the Engadine. Skikjöring, a discipline in which daredevil men on skis are pulled along a 2,700-m-long track by unsaddled thoroughbreds at speeds of up to 50 km/h over a crunchy ice, is exclusive to White Turf and invariably has the crowds in raptures. Courage, stamina, strength and skiing skills will decide who collects the greatest number of points over the three race Sundays in order to be crowned ‘King of the Engadine’ for a whole year. ‘It is not only the exceptional venue but also the style and ambience of this social and sporting event attract guests from all over the world and celebrities from the worlds of culture, business and politics year for year,’ notes Rudolf Fopp, President and CEO of White Turf. Besides the horse races, White Turf St. Moritz offers a highly attractive fringe programme, including two interesting musical performances, three highly diverse art exhibitions, and plenty of fun and enjoyment for children and adults alike, not to mention a rich selection of culinary highlights, enhancing the value of White Turf as an all-round experience. To make all this possible, White Turf can rely on the special support of its two longstanding principal sponsors, Credit Suisse and BMW (Schweiz) AG, which actively set the social tone of the sports event. At the end of each race Sunday, the Prix d’Honneur, a free raffle, is drawn, allowing all holders of a programme brochure the chance to win dream trips, holidays in luxury hotels and other attractive prizes. With prize monies totalling more than CHF 400,000, White Turf is also the most lucrative equestrian event in Switzerland: The “Gübelin Grand Prix de St. Moritz”, for example, which counts as the European Cup on snow, is worth an impressive CHF 111,111 to the winner, making it the most highly prized race in Switzerland.
WHITE TURF stands for sport of the highest calibre, featuring the most important horse race of the winter season.
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sm header St. Moritz Polo World Cup on Snow REDESIGNED FOR THE FUTURE
Inaugurated in 1985, the 26th St. Moritz Polo World Cup on Snow will take place between January 28 and 31, 2010. The tournament, formerly known by the title sponsor - Cartier - is now officially called the St. Moritz Polo World Cup on Snow. Although the new generic name ensures the longevity of the brand, the polo teams will once again be competing for the Cartier Trophy. Cartier is joined this year once again by Brioni and Bank Julius Baer (both have been sponsors for the past few years) and new to the tournament, the Italian sports car manufacturer, Maserati. As part of this highly original venture, Cartier commissioned the creation of special horseshoes that would offer the horses a better grip. The success of this event endorses Cartier’s enthusiasm for polo on snow – a sport that reflects a certain lifestyle for which Cartier remains a pioneer. Genuine jousting events on snowy terrains, these entertaining and exceptional fixtures have inspired Cartier to create a special anniversary trophy. Last year, for the 25th anniversary of the Cartier Polo World Cup on Snow in St Moritz, Cartier created the Maillet d’Or, a new trophy for which rival teams would compete each winter in the renowned ski resort. A fine example of jewellery craftsmanship, Cartier’s Maillet d’Or pays tribute to the vitality and elegance of polo through both the precious nature of its noble materials and the vigour of its powerful design. This prestigious trophy will fuel the passion of all enthusiasts of this exceptional sport. Last years winning team, Bank Julius Baer, led by George Milford Haven (Great Britain), will be defending its title against the three other participating teams, all of which play to a high goal handicap.
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sm hotspots “A la carte” holidays in a luxury ski retreat All is set for an ideal holiday in Verbier, known as one of the best ski resorts in the world. The charm of a boutique hotel with five star service and limitless comfort in magnificent private residences: this is the signature of the Chalet Spa brand. Experience the supremely stylish side of Verbier, with Chalet Spa Verbier and Chalet Spa Blanche, two private residences benefitting from a five star service where contemporary design comes together with luxurious comfort like nowhere else. Elegant rooms, exceptional service, great spa areas, all very close to the ski lifts. Nestled at the base of Savoleyres, in the heart of Verbier, Chalet Spa residences combine perfect location and fine service with alpine cozy ambiance and breathtaking views. At Chalet Spa Verbier, the Spa invites guests to experience authentic spa therapy with soothing facials, massages, salon selections and Chalet Spa signature treatments. After a great ski day, the guests can relax in the outdoor Jacuzzi just outside the inner pool or enjoy a cocktail on the barbecue terrace in the hot tub nearby, with an incredible view on the Alps.
a luxurious oasis of relaxation This December the new Hotel Guarda Golf will open its doors in Crans Montana. As the region’s first all year round five-star hotel it is situated right by the golf course amidst nature and the majestic alpine landscape of the Valais, prepared to offer any possible amenities to their guests. Exceptional location in the heart of Crans, full south orientation, directly on the fairway of the golf course, and 5 minutes on foot from Crans city centre, the Hotel Guarda Golf will offer a cozy atmosphere and a personalized service. This new and innovative five star hotel, fashioned in a modern yet characteristic alpine style, reveals a unique concept and philosophy. The Hotel Guarda Golf is adjacent to the golf course and counts twenty-five rooms and suites – outfitted exclusively with natural materials –, two gourmet restaurants, a lounge and the gorgeous Guarda Golf SPA, an extensive wellness area carved in stone and featuring an indoor pool, whirlpool, sauna, Hammam and four treatment rooms. This is the first spa in the world using exclusively products of the Brazilian cult label Beauty by Clinica Ivo Pitanguy. Hotel guests and day visitors alike are welcome to enjoy the unique mix of leisureliness and active experience: the “Jack Nicklaus” 9-hole golf course situated right in front of the hotel and the adjacent 18-hole golf course designed by former world champion Severiano Ballesteros lure golfers in summer and cross-country skiers in winter. Hotel Guarda Golf *****S Route des Zirès 14 3963 Crans Montana Tel. +41 (0)27 486 2000
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This Year, Chalet Spa Verbier is reopening its doors with a brand new ground floor proposing a new billiard space, neighbouring with a modern styled glass enclosed wine cellar and wine tasting area, comprising a wide range of vintage wines (including Petrus), champagnes (such as Krug and other special reserves like Salon de S), whiskies, armagnacs, vodkas and other spirits. Chalet Spa Blanche has also added a billiard table in its cinema room. CHALET SPA residences are available for rental throughout the year on a weekly basis. Rental includes the services of a chef, a concierge, a chauffeur, a 7-seater Mercedes van, a Polaris Ranger RZR800 Dune buggy, 6 covered parking spaces and 2 outdoor parking spaces. www.chaletspa.com
sm haute horlogerie
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The Hybris Mechanica à Grande Sonnerie, makes the dream of a holy grail of watchmaking a reality through the realization of the most complex and demanding form of horology.
Jaeger LeCoultre is well known for constantly pushing the boundaries of watchmaking. The knowhow of over 1000 employees, in-house manufacturing as well as a reputation for tackling the most complex mechanical challenges guards the company’s role as one of the most serious watch manufactures in the world. By presenting the Hybris Mechanica 55, an iconic trilogy collection comprising three unprecedented masterpieces, Jaeger-LeCoultre once again proves to be the expert of the exceptional. The set consists of three watches, the all new Hybris Mechanica à Grande Sonnerie, the Hybris Mechanica à Gyrotourbillon and the Hybris Mechanica à Triptyque. Together, this landmark set of the most complicated wristwatches depicts the present state of Haute Horlogerie in the new millennium and showcases the greatest achievements in the 176-year-long history of the Grande Maison. Each watch is an icon of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s craftsmanship and cover three exciting aspects of watchmaking in full flamboyance and beauty: the epitome of precision timekeeping with the tourbillon, the mathematical ap-
proach to eternity in all its variations with the perpetual calendar, and the magic of sound with the Grande Sonnerie. The latest invention of the Grande Maison, the Hybris Mechanica à Grande Sonnerie, makes the dream of a holy grail of watchmaking a reality through the realization of the most complex and demanding form of horology: the striking of the time just as the Tower of Big Ben in Great Britain dictates, every hour and quarter – fully automatic and miniaturized to the size of a wristwatch. Combined with this outstanding feature the watch also comprises a flying tourbillon and a perpetual calendar with retrograde hands. A jumping hour and minute mechanism rounds off the concerto of this elaborate masterpiece of 26-complications. The Hybris Mechanica à Grande Sonnerie Among watchmakers the creation of a musical watch is regarded as the Mount Everest of horology because its mechanism far surpasses the complexity of any other mechanical watchmaking complication. Building a repeater watch not only requires decades of training in
JAEGER LECOULTRE - The Sound of Time 17
Perpetual and instant calendar
Jumping hour and minutes
Regulation device with inertia-blocks
Strike power reserve indicator
Watch power reserve indicator
Secured incremental hours setting (forward)
22-23 Secured incremental minutes setting forward and backward
this most advanced field of high horology, but also a thorough understanding of music, the physics of sound and the ability to create a miniature musical instrument able to transform timekeeping into a world of harmony. Over 1300 parts make the newly presented caliber 182 one of the most advanced – and the most complex – movements ever created for a wristwatch. Thirteen patents are pending for this caliber measuring 10.42 mm in height and 37 mm in diameter and housed in a 44 mm 18 ct white gold case. However, the expert watchmakers at JLC refused to simply accept the given standards and methods for the creation of a miniature variation of already existing concepts of sonnerie watches. Instead they set out to completely redesign and improve those concepts, creating an unprecedented mechanical highlight. The Grande Sonnerie mechanism Even though the watch is outstanding for its extremely complex mechanism, it is far from complicated for the user: the watch’s crown SWISS MADE magazine DELUXE
and pushers operate the different functions of the watch. By turning the crown in one direction, the barrel of the watch can be wound for up to 50 hours of power reserve. Turning the crown into the other direction, a second barrel is wound, providing the power required for the sounding mechanism of the watch for a total of maximum 12 hours in Grande Sonnerie mode. Geometrically the two barrels are integrated in the dual wing concept, the characteristic feature of the Duomètre line, in which one gear train stands in for the timing device and a separate one for the striking mechanism. The striking modes can be changed with the higher pusher at 4 o’clock. It sets the musical mechanism to “Grande Sonnerie”, “petite sonnerie” or “silence”. A small indicator at 6 o’clock on the dial shows the actual mode. Hammers, gongs and memory system The sound delivered by a musical watch relies heavily on the gongs which are the essential sound producing elements, similar to the strings struck by the hammers of a piano. The watchcase further enhances and enrich-
Striking mode selector
Instant minute repeater activation
Automatic modes’ switch
es the sounds released by the gongs, adding different colors and sonorities to it. To deliver the best possible sound, Jaeger-LeCoultre developed a completely new gong form. These gongs, are made of a special, secret alloy and manufactured completely in one piece from the gong foot through to the whole wire; their cross section being square and not round in order to provide a larger contact point for the hammer which in turn can strike more forcefully. Furthermore, the sonority of the sound can be individually customized according to the client’s desire. Traditionally, musical watches are prone to mechanical failures if the time is set backwards, especially if the watch is in sounding mode, with the possible consequence of damaging the entire mechanical system consisting of ratchets, wheels, star, snails and springs. The specialists at JLC avoided this problem by completely redesigning the memory system of the Grande Sonnerie. The whole repeating mechanism is located in a single, three-tiered tower of 5.15 millime-
ters height and dubbed the ‘Infernal Tower’ by the watchmakers due to its complex construction. To prevent possible damage by inadvertently setting the time while in sonnerie mode, they created a jumping hour and minute mechanism, which is actually driven by the three-tiered tower thus eliminating any malfunction between timing and striking mechanism, and where the hours can be set forward only with a pusher at 2 o’clock.
The Hybris Mechanica Trilogy
The rhythm and sound It is of vital importance that the striking rhythm of the hammers functions in a way that allows the gongs to develop their vibrations and deliver a full sonorous sound as well as correctly follow the rhythm of the melody. The evenness of this timing not only underlines the quality of mechanical virtue and purity of sound, it is a trademark of the very best repeater and Grande Sonnerie watches. Through an amazingly synchronized ballet of ratchets and especially developed gears, which can be observed through the open window in the dial, the engineers of the manufacture took great care to provide the listener with accurate, interruption-free melodies in every of the three sonnerie-modes, what is even more, the watch provides different sets of melodies, depending on the mode it is set to.
The Grande Sonnerie
Thirty sets of these three outstanding watches are due to be produced between 2009 and 2014 and will be delivered from September 2010 on.
With an eye to long term wear Jaeger-LeCoultre’s watchmakers developed special titanium screws with a hexagonal head to supply additional sturdiness, as they provide five times more torque than standard screws, thus ensuring excellent security. The tourbillon and perpetual calendar Although the Grande Sonnerie alone is an outstanding piece of horological craftsmanship, this didn’t prevent the watchmakers of JaegerLeCoultre from adding two further complications. First is a tourbillon which they mounted onto the back of the movement. The specialists decided for a variant called a flying tourbillon. This, rather than supporting the tourbillon cage with a bridge at both the top and bottom, is cantilevered and thus held only at the underside. The whole mechanism, which consists of 73 parts, measures 12.42 millimeters in diameter and 3.85 in height. Furthermore the watchmakers in the Vallée de Joux took the additional challenge of incorporating a perpetual calendar mechanism to the movement with retrograde hands for all functions from date, month and weekday. A small leap year indicaton rounds off the calendar function. The mechanism is programmed until the year 2100, and in any case can be adjusted via push pieces hidden in the case between the lugs at 12 o’clock.
The beautifully leather coated safe from a top German maker has a total weight of around 1200 kilograms, measuring 1 meter in width and 1.5 meters in height, will safeguard the precious watches if they are not worn. Underneath the sophisticated surface lie the most advanced security materials, easily able to fulfill all insurance requirements. Fitted with an electronic locking system, the safe is code-secured and has a built-in electronic winding machine for the three watches as well as eight further automatic winding systems for other timepieces. As the final icing on the cake, the manufacture installed a special, piezo-driven sound system in the safe, so that the actual chiming of the Hybris Mechanica à Grande Sonnerie can be heard from the outside even with the safe securely locked.
JAEGER LeCOULTRE - The Sound of Time 19
BREITLING Chronomat B01 A powerful, unique and quintessential design, masterfully reinterpreted. A selfwinding chronograph movement entirely developed and crafted in the brand workshops. A stunning presence on the wrist distinguished by a blend of strength and elegance. Breitling has created a highly exclusive version of its leading Chronomat model, which is asserting itself more forcefully than ever as the benchmark in the field of mechanical chronographs. Equipped with the very first 100% in-house chronograph movement, the Chronomat B01 majestically heralds Breitling’s grand entrance into the selective circle of genuine watch movement manufacturers. Designed to guarantee maximum precision, reliability and functionality, it represents the culmination of the long-running quest for performance characteristic of Breitling “instruments for professionals”. The unidirectional rotating bezel – an essential companion in measuring flight or dive times – is adorned with exclusive engraved numerals ensuring excellent readability while endowing the chronograph with an eminently recognizable face. Crafted with extreme concern for details, this flagship luxury model is bound to delight devotees of fine timepieces born to accomplish great feats. Chronomat B01: the ultimate chronograph with a perfect fuselage.
SWISS MADE magazine DELUXE
F.P. JOURNE Chronomètre Bleu The new creation by F.P. Journe is innovative with its 39 mm case made for the first time of Tantalum, a rare dark grey metal with blue overtones. Tantalum is a wonderful metal but rarely used in watchmaking as it is hard and very difficult to manipulate, due to its very high fusion temperature of 3000° and a density of 16.3. Tantalum is also precious as it is highly resistant to corrosion and wear. The chrome blue dial is in perfect harmony with the colour of the case in a contemporary spirit. The F.P.Journe hands, matching the large cream-coloured Arabic numerals, mark the hours while the guilloché seconds dial at 7:30 enhances the mirror effect of the main dial. The manual winding movement of the CHRONOMETRE BLEU is made in 18K rose gold, like that of all F.P.Journe creations. Signed with the label Invenit et Fecit- (invented and made), each F.P.Journe exclusive movement guarantees a manufacture calibre, invented, constructed, and assembled entirely in our Geneva workshops. For the CHRONOMETRE BLEU, the exacting motto of F.P.Journe’s watchmakers holds true: “to each watchmaker his own watch”. Through the transparent back, the balance and escapement appear to be mysteriously detached from the movement, beating with no apparent motive force. F.P.Journe has placed the connecting train under the dial, leaving only the centre wheel to highlight the isolation of the balance.
CHOPARD L.U.C. Chrono ONE With its sleek, strong lines, contemporary look and a thoroughbred in its class, the L.U.C Chrono One chronograph represents an ideal blend of refined technical and aesthetic features. Housing a movement entirely designed, developed and produced in-house, this new chronograph offering a flyback function features several major innovations for which three patents have been filed. This exceptional watch beats to the cadence of the L.U.C 11 CF movement, chronometer-certified by the COSC. The exceptional quality standards applied to this L.U.C Chrono One are reflected in the incomparable lines of its design. Crafted in polished and brushed steel, the 42 mm case features an admirable blend of classical elegance and dynamic sportsmanship. The brilliant black dial is a model of clarity, particularly with its two oversized hour and minute counters slightly offset from the crown axis. The slender, partially hollowed â&#x20AC;&#x153;Techâ&#x20AC;?-style hour and minute hands are coated in Superluminova to ensure optimal nighttime readability. With a water-resistance level to 30 metres and endowed with a 60-hour power reserve, this chronograph is equipped with a sapphire glass and transparent case back revealing the movement. The meticulous finishing of the case and dial is matched by an exceptional movement. Designed, developed and produced by Chopard Manufacture, the L.U.C Calibre 11 CF is an integrated chronograph movement.
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AUDERMARS PIGUET Millenary Carbon One The Millenary Carbon One has emerged straight from Audemars Piguetâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cutting-edge research laboratory. This special development unit combines the finest talents â&#x20AC;&#x201C; engineers, designers and watchmakers. Its mission consists in exploring advanced technical paths in order to ensure 100% in-house conception, prototype creation and production of exclusive movements that are a perfect match for their exterior. The Millenary Carbon One, a limited series of 120 watches, has just emerged from this hotbed of creativity. It is freely inspired by motor sports and their extraordinary ultra-light high-performance speed machines, while adopting the oval shape of the Millenary as a spectacular playground. Its key strengths include a threedimensional design, innovative materials, and a 100% proprietary movement equipped with a tourbillon, a chronograph and a 10-day power reserve. The Millenary Carbon One is intended for connoisseurs of Haute Horlogerie with a decided taste for fine mechanical engineering and who like to remain in the forefront of design, at the exact place where the exterior and the movement meet and merge, and where aesthetic and technical factors blend into a unified whole.
OMEGA Seamaster Planet Ocean Liquidmetal® The Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Liquidmetal® Limited Edition is the world’s first watch to bond ceramics and Liquidmetal® . The Liquidmetal® alloy is an amorphous metal – a metallic material with a disordered, non-crystalline atomic structure. Its fusion temperature is half that of conventional titanium alloys but when it is cooled, its hardness is three times as great as that of stainless steel. Its amorphous structure allows it to bond seamlessly with the ceramic bezel. The Liquidmetal® is a bulk metallic glass alloy consisting of five elements: zirconium, titanium, copper, nickel and beryllium. A bulk metallic glass can, by virtue of its low critical cooling rate, be formed into a structure with a thickness of more than a tenth of a millimetre. Zirconium is an important constituent part both of the Liquidmetal® alloy and of the ceramic material which is made of zirconium dioxide (Zr02). The perfectly smooth bezel is particularly resistant to scratching and corrosion because of the hardness of the two components. A design which will retain its appearance indefinitely. The OMEGA Seamaster Planet Ocean Liquidmetal® Limited Edition, which has a stainless steel case and bracelet, is driven by OMEGA’s revolutionary Co-Axial calibre 2500. The remarkable world premiere is being launched in a limited edition of 1948 pieces in honour of the year OMEGA launched its popular Seamaster watch line.
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LU GA N O
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With the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s conscience demanding change of the automotive industry, new innovations hailing from Switzerland and abroad are leading the charge towards a revolution in human mobility without sacrificing the luxuries and performance weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve come to crave
by NOAH JOSEPH
GREEN POWER 27
or the first several millennia of human existence, our conception of time was rather abstract, based on the cycles of the sun and seasons but little else. Modern man, however, shares a much more intimate relationship with time, the commodity that has emerged as the most precious in our lives. In order to measure it, we invented the timepiece. In order to meet it, the automobile. Both inventions, central to human progress, have their roots in Swiss innovation. But while the craftsmen of the wrist watch harnessed the energy of human mobility with the automatic movement, the internal combustion engine – first developed by Swiss inventor François Isaac de Rivaz and still the building block on which modern automobiles are based – relies on the burning of fossil fuels to get the modern man where he needs to be on time. That reliance served us well over the course of the SWISS MADE magazine DELUXE
past century. But today a new imperative – driven by economic and environmental concerns – has forced us to begin developing a new type of automotive propulsion to supplement and eventually supplant the internal combustion engine in order to reduce our dependence on polluting and diminishing supplies of oil. Like the first automobiles, the initial prototypes for electric vehicles – even those that made it to market – remained on the fringe. Sacrifices in such sought-after qualities as luxury, performance and prestige were made towards the vehicle’s main purpose. But like the original automobiles, electric vehicles will continue to merge into the mainstream until they become commonplace. The trend has already begun to bear fruit, and a new generation of exciting, yet environmentally-conscious vehicles has arisen to simultaneously hug the road, pamper the driver and embrace the planet. And while the established industry giants may be in the best position to present these new vehicles to the motoring public, a new crop of independent automakers has begun to sprout, bearing the fruit of progress, among them several that are bringing the automobile back to its roots in Switzerland for replanting.
a new generation of exciting, yet environmentally-conscious vehicles has arisen Although diminishing in their prominence, the major international automobile expositions remain one of the most important showcases of human mobility. And while nearly every significant motor show around the world over the past several years has endeavored to promote the “green” automobile, arguably nowhere was this more evident than the recently concluded international auto show in Frankfurt. There three of Germany’s largest automakers showcased their latest designs for exclusive, high-performance exotic sportscars. But each had a surprisingly earthfriendly twist, and each in a radically different way.
Having championed the cause of clean-burning diesels with its Le Mans racing program, interest was piqued when Audi took the wraps off its R8 V12 TDI concept car, first at the North American International Auto Show in Detroit in January 2008 and then at the Geneva show the following March. The company had already revolutionized the notion of the mid-engine supercar – the epitome of automotive desirability – so disappointment was palpable when they announced that the torque-intensive, oil-burning exotic would not reach the market. All was forgiven, however, when Audi unveiled the long-rumored E-Tron concept at this year’s Frankfurt show. Based on the R8, the E-Tron does away with the internal combustion engine altogether, replacing it instead with four electric motors (one at each wheel) and a large battery pack to deliver an impressive 313 horsepower but an altogether mind-boggling 3,319 lb-ft of torque – by order of magnitude more twist than ever deemed imaginable in an automobile, all without burning a drop of oil or emitting a single curl of smoke. Almost as unbelievably, Audi subsequently announced that it will produce the E-Tron and offer it for public consumption. mysterious Luxury GREEN POWER 29
Mercedes-Benz came to Frankfurt with an exotic, range-topping supercar of its own that will likewise offer electric-only motivation. After years of collaboration with its Formula One racing partner on the SLR McLaren supercar, Mercedes has gone its own way with the new SLS AMG. Developed entirely inhouse, the SLS is characterized by its retro styling and gull-wing doors reminiscent of the classic 300SL of yore. And while its 6.2-liter, 560hp V8 may not be the cleanest-burning engine on the market, Mercedes has announced that it is developing an entirely electric powertrain for the top-of-the-line supercar that will also be available to the public in the near future.
the most exciting new environmentally-friendly performance automobiles coming to market in the near future
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Meanwhile BMW came to Frankfurt with the Vision EfficientDynamics show car. Incorporating a miniscule 1.5-liter three-cylinder turbodiesel engine coupled to a pair of electric motors, the Vision EfficientDynamics is a rolling showcase of what a hybrid sportscar can offer in terms of driving performance with a minimal impact to the environment through which itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s propelled. Although just a concept car for the time being, industry sources indicate that BMW is working on a production version that will demonstrate its parallel commitments to performance and the environment.
These are only a few of the most exciting new environmentally-friendly performance automobiles coming to market in the near future. Automakers like these and others are already offering a growing variety of hybrid luxury vehicles in markets around the world. But as incremental as these changes are to the modern automobile, theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re being lead by a small group of independent start-ups driving the public conscience and their mainstream colleagues along with them. California-based Tesla Motors was among the first, bridging the gap between Detroit and Silicon Valley with its all-electric Roadster. Based on a lightweight, compact chassis engineered by Lotus, the Tesla Roadster took the industry by storm. Following years of development, the Roadster is now available on the market for public consumption, and its creators are moving on to the next project, an innovative electric luxury sedan tentatively known as the Model S.
mysterious luxury GREEN POWER 31
Joining Tesla on the stage for the first dedicated exclusive electric automobiles is the start-up headed by legendary automotive designer Henrik Fisker. After penning such noteworthy shapes as the Aston Martin DB9 and BMW Z8, and establishing his own coachbuilding operation to re-body BMW and MercedesBenz sportscars as even more desirable objects of rolling art, Fisker unveiled plans for the Karma. Powered by the Quantum plug-in hybrid drive coupled to a 2-liter engine furnished by General Motors, the Karma saloon is joined by the equally sumptuous Sunset convertible. With curvaceous bodywork and environmentally-friendly propulsion, the Fisker Karma and Sunset will offer buyers in the market for an exclusive, luxurious automobile little excuse but to join the cause and lead the industry to greener pastures.
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With independent companies like Tesla and Fisker taking the initiative in a transforming automobile industry, a number of Swiss companies have joined the scene with a new generation of innovation of their own.
This past spring Swiss electronics company Brusa came to the EVS 24 environmental conference in Norway with the E-Spyder in tow. Like the Tesla, the compact roadster is motivated exclusively by electric power, packaged in a two-seat open-top sportscar to take the stigma out of the electric car and replace it with unmitigated driving enjoyment. Still in the prototype phase, the Brusa E-Spyder serves as a showcase for Swiss ingenuity in this developing sector. Joining Brusa on the world stage is a Swiss-developed electric project known as the Mindset E-Motion. With a unique shooting-brake profile reminiscent of the timeless Karmann Ghia and riding on bicycle-like narrow wheels for low rolling resistance, the Mindset was penned by former Volkswagen designer Murat Gunak. Motivation is provided by a modest 94hp electric motor and powered by a lithium-
ion battery pack to deliver a 100-mile range on a six-hour charge. Still under development, the Mindset E-Motion is targeted for 10,000 units annually with a price tag in their neighborhood of 50,000 euros if and when it finally reaches the market. While the industry and the motoring public at large wait to see if these and other ventures ever emerge from the prototype phase, both Brusa and Mindset have a clear example to follow right from their own back yards. Switzerland’s own Quantya has found success in the market with electric-powered motorcycles. The earth-friendly dirt bikes have been gaining a dedicated following among both riding enthusiasts and motocross fans as the Quantya Evo1 offers a compelling alternative to conventional gasoline-burning motorbikes. As mankind struggles with the ticking clock and opposing demands of his own imperatives versus those of the planet on which he lives, the path towards switching over from fossil fuel-burning vehicles to electric ones will be a long one. But as arduous as the task may seem, there is no shortage of innovators – in Switzerland and abroad – who remain dedicated to the cause, its demands and its benefits. With time we’ll all likely be driving these vehicles on our daily commutes, and whispering to ourselves over the faint hum of their electric motors what it all comes down to in the end: it’s about time. GREEN POWER 33
A rt of T ime by Tony DURAN Famed celebrity photographer Tony Duran & Swiss Made magazine join together to bring an edgy artistic view by mixing sensuality,with beauty and time. At the top of his game, Tony Duran works with some of Hollywoodâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s A-list stars both in fashion and films such as Jennifer Lopez, Beyonce, Ashton Kutcher , Brad Pitt, and Tom Cruise. No matter how big the star, Tony seems to have the power to bring out the sensual side of anyone who stands in front of him. Tony evokes a mood both classic and cutting edge, bringing controversy and passion to each photographic moment he captures. This season we are proud to bring you a look thru his eyes, combining Art and Time. Allowing Time to be our STAR. Producer: Sherry Williams Models: Amanda Booth & Joe Slauhter , Parker Hurley Fashion editor: Andy Salmen, Julie Kramer Hair / Makeup: Kela Wong Photo Assistant: Robert Hills SWISS MADE magazine DELUXE
deGrisogono high jewellery collection Art of Time by Tony Duran 35
LONGINES Retrograde, REF L2.7126.96.36.199 - CHF 4’995 scarf: ADAM KIMMEL gray cashmere waffel - $ 375 SWISS MADE magazine DELUXE
HD3 THREE MINDS, automatic with black PVD case - $ 11,000 dress: Vivienne Westwood black cotton - $ 995 Art of Time by Tony Duran 37
MILUS APIANA Chronograph, 2.37 carats diamonds - CHF 21â&#x20AC;&#x2122;900 dress: Christian Dior white cotton SWISS MADE magazine DELUXE
Art of Time by Tony Duran 39
CARL F. BUCHERER Patravi ChronoDate – $ 6,900 shirt: THOME BROWNE white cotton Tuxedo - $ 370 SWISS MADE magazine DELUXE
RICHARD MILLE RM011 WG chronograph - $ 90,000 DeGRISOGONO earrings dress: Black Tulle dress by Andy Salmen Art of Time by Tony Duran 41
MILUS - Herios TriRetrograde Seconds Skeleton Carbon, CHF 8â&#x20AC;&#x2122;400.SWISS MADE magazine DELUXE
Milus ZETIOS Chronograph Joaillerie, diamonds - 1.14 carats, from CHF 11â&#x20AC;&#x2122;500.Art of Time by Tony Duran 43
PARMIGIANI - Kalpagraph XL Tourbillon HUGO BOSS - black velvet and leather jacket, $ 1,050
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URWERK 103 HEXAGONS, platium case - $102,000 dress: Blumarine black silk and cotton- $ 995.00
mysterious Art of Time by Tony Luxury Duran 45
DAVIDOFF - Very Zino lady quartz red gold watch DAVIDOFF - Very Zino rollerball laquer black PRADA - black cable dress
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Art of Time by Tony Duran 47
Jean Tinguely, Machine Ă dessiner No. 3, 1955, Museum Tinguely, Basel
TINGUELY SWISS MADE magazine DELUXE
Jean Tinguely was an extremely prolific Swiss artist who spent his life creating kinetic sculpture as part of the Parisian avantgarde movement. By April Boland
Museum Tinguely, West façade giving onto the Solitude Park with Jean Tinguely’s, Schwimmwasserplastik, 1980
Jean Tinguely, Federding, Baluba, 1961 Museum Tinguely, Basel. Gift of Franz Meyer
© Photos: Christian Baur, Basel © 2009, ProLitteris
Jean Tinguely was an extremely prolific Swiss artist who spent his life creating kinetic sculpture as part of the Parisian avant-garde movement. He was born on May 22, 1925 in Fribourg, Switzerland. That same year, he and his mother moved to Basel, where Tinguely would attend school. In 1941, at the age of 16, he began an apprenticeship as a decorator. Upon finishing his apprenticeship in 1944, he then went on to attend the School of Arts and Crafts in Basel. A few years later, he became interested in the ideas of anarchy in the circle of Heiner Koechlin. In 1951, Tinguely married fellow sculptor Eva Aeppli. The following year, the couple moved to France, a move that would significantly influence Tinguely’s art career. Only two years later, his first exhibition opened at Galerie Arnaud in Paris.
In 1955, Tinguely moved into a studio in the Impasse Ronsin, where his neighbors were such prominent artists as Romanian sculptor Constantin Brancusi. Tinguely also showed his work in an exhibition at Galerie Samlaren in Stockholm that year. In 1958, Tinguely put together an exhibition at the Galerie Iris Clert in Paris with fellow artist Yves Klein entitled, “Vitesse pure et stabilité monochrome” (Pure Speed and Monochrome Stability). The next year, Tinguely made a grand statement by scattering copies of a manifesto entitled “Für Statik” from an airplane over Düsseldorf, Germany. He then went on to exhibit “Méta-Matics de Jean Tinguely” at Galerie Iris Clert. In 1960, Tinguely created a self-destructing machine sculpture for the garden of the Museum of Modern Art in New York City. It was called “Hommage à New York” (Homage to New York), and it is arguably the work that made him famous. He continued creating such self-destructing pieces for the next few years, detonating them in places like Denmark and Las Vegas, JEAN TINGUELY 49
Photos on these pages: © Photo Christian Baur, Basel © 2009, ProLitteris
Jean Tinguely, Mengele-Totentanz, 1986 (300 x 440 x 420 cm), Museum Tinguely, Basel
Tinguely’s work and genius has been widely recognized in the art world.
Jean Tinguely on the scrapheap, 1957 © Photo: Hansjörg Stoecklin, Arisdorf
Nevada in the United States. That year, he also became a part of the Nouveau Réalisme (New Realism) group, which focused on seeing the world in new, unconventional ways. These artists claimed a new awareness of the world and used everyday objects to create their works of art. Shortly after joining the group, Tinguely created his Baluba series using everyday objects like scrap metal and animal furs. His work from this period is considered a parody of sculpture and a satirical statement on the mass production of resources in the modern world. In 1967, Tinguely presented his work at the World Fair in Montreal, Canada. “Requiem pour une feuille morte” (Requiem for a dead leaf) was designed for and featured in the Swiss pavilion, while “Le Paradis fantastique” (Fantastic paradise) was done, together with fellow artist Niki de Saint Phalle, for the French pavilion. Tinguely returned to Switzerland in 1968 to live in an old inn in Neyruz, where he continued his work in New Realism. In 1970, for the 10th anniversary of the Nouveaux Réalistes group, Tinguely burned a giant golden phallus in front of Milan Cathedral, calling it “La Vittoria” (Victory). In 1971, he married Niki de Saint Phalle, who had collaborated with him intensely on
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various works since 1960. For the next two decades, he focused on his own personal projects while also undertaking countless commissions for public works. This includes the “Fontaine Jo Siffert”, a gift given to the city of Fribourg in 1984, and the “Fontaine de Château-Chinon,” a fountain that was commissioned by the President of France and co-designed with his wife, Niki de Saint Phalle. Towards the end of his life and career, Jean Tinguely began working with skull sculptures. He first exhibited these at the Abbey of Sénanque in 1981, and he continued to work with them, even including animal skulls in his 1986 work, “Mengele-Totentanz,” which was also composed of charred beams and burnt agricultural machinery that was found in an old, burned farmhouse. Tinguely’s work and genius has been widely recognized in the art world. During his life, he was given retrospectives at the Tate Gallery in London, the Palais des Beaux-Arts in Brussels, the Musée d’Art et d’Histoire in Geneva and the Kunsthaus in Zurich. After his death in 1991, many tributes emerged for him. One example is the Tinguely Museum, which opened in Basel, Tinguely’s home town, in 1996, entirely financed by the Healthcare company Roche.
Traveling the World with
Davidoff by Keith W. Strandberg
Zino Davidoff, one of the founders of the Davidoff empire, was a world traveler. When he was young, he left the safety of Geneva, Switzerland to discover the world. When Zino Davidoff SA decided to reintegrate the Licenses and relaunch itself the luxury accessories – watches, pens and leather goods - in 2008, it was only natural that they have a travel theme.
Walk into a store carrying Davidoff products and the watches, pens and briefcases appear to be in a luxurious steamer trunk – the clear intention of Davidoff president Christian Schaffner. “The concept is like one of these old travel trunks that people took on cruises in the past,” he says. “Traveling is a part of our roots, but it’s not just traveling, it’s traveling with a meaning. Traveling to learn, as Zino did when he went out to discover the world, to learn about new cultures and find the best products.” The Launch Davidoff luxury accessories were relaunched in 2008 at the BaselWorld Fair and so far the business is doing very well. Certainly, the brand is famous, which garnered a lot of interest. As a family company with a rich history, two of Davidoff’s core values are solidity and the ability to look at things from the long term. As a result, customers see Davidoff as a company on which they can rely. In keeping with its tradition and its classic nature, Davidoff is what
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Schaffner calls “introverted luxury.” “Our products are not screaming luxury -- we go for things that are meant to stay,” Schaffner says. “Our watches have classic values with contemporary elements, and still some chic, because classic doesn’t need to be old man’s style.” The shape most closely associated with Zino Davidoff is the oval, which can be found in a great number of Davidoff products. Even the logo for Davidoff is a stylized, oval ‘double D’ for Davidoff. Traveling played such a big role in the life of Zino and it is a huge part of the company’s heritage – for example, if you look at old maps, they always have two hemispheres, so the logo represents the world of Davidoff. This is very conceptual, certainly, but it makes sense for the brand. The watch collection, called Very Zino, uses this oval shape for the cases, which is very unique in the watch industry. Indicative of how Davidoff approaches all its products, the attempt is to distinguish Davidoff watches, pens and leather goods, without being “in your face” with design.
photo by ©TONY DURAN
The field of luxury accessories was quite logical for Davidoff, because of the brand’s association with Zino Davidoff and its viral, masculine image. After all, the products with which a man can differentiate himself are watches, pens and leather goods. In addition, these three product categories work well individually as well as when presented as an ensemble. “These are solid products, they are things you can use every day,” he continues. “There is a lot of hand work in the pens, all of the metal parts in the leather goods are put together by hand, palladium finished and polished by hand, and the watches are polished by hand, and then regulated by hand by master watchmakers.” The Products One of the hallmarks for Davidoff is that the company will go to great lengths to get the best out of its products. Based in Switzerland, it would have been easier to do everything locally, but Davidoff is committed to offering only the best of the best. “We go wherever we have to in order to get the best products – writing instruments from Germany, leather goods from Italy (with the prime leather from France) and watches from Switzerland, of course,” Schaffner says. Certainly, the best of the best in timepieces means Switzerland, and Davidoff proudly uses Swiss automatic movements in the Christian Schaffner, CEO men’s line and Swiss quartz movements for women. All the timepieces are designed by internationally-renowned designers with a detailed brief from Davidoff. “The watch is a jewel for men, it’s the one thing where a man can send a message about his personality, so it’s important for Davidoff,” says Schaffner. “With men, it is on the wrist where we can make a difference. 50 years ago, watches were about indicating time, today they are about indicating personality. “Our customer is predominantly male, between 30 and 50, someone who identifies with our values of steadiness and
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introverted luxury, someone who has an international outlook, someone who likes to travel in order to learn something,” he continues. “He is a world citizen like Zino Davidoff. Our customer is a traveler, not a tourist. He is someone who travels to learn, who comes back inspired.” In addition to design cues linking the products of the brand, the company uses a signature color, Davidoff Red, to spread the message. The retail displays are in this color, as are the boxes and many of the products. In addition, Davidoff Red is often used on the hands of the watches, it is used in the brand’s communication materials, in the shop in shops, in the displays and in the packaging for the products. The packaging for the timepieces, for example, is in Davidoff red and even has a drawer, to make the tie to the steamer trunk display. The Distribution Davidoff started its distribution in the Middle East, Italy, Spain and Asia. This year, the company is launching in Switzerland, Davidoff’s “home” market. In addition, Davidoff has unveiled two brand boutiques, one in Kuala Lumpur and one in Beijing. “The mono brand environments are where we can celebrate the brand,” Schaffner details. “There are a multitude of things that have to come together to have boutiques – but most important are a great location and good partners that understand the brand and have shared our philosophy.” The Future The future looks bright for Davidoff. “We offer solidity and consistency,” says Schaffner. “We look at the long term -- we don’t change too often because we think we have to have change for change’s sake, we stay with products on a long term view. We have the security of a family business, which allows us to build something very consistently. Our customers and partners can rely on us.”
One on One with Christian Schaffner Christian Schaffner has been at the reins of Zino Davidoff SA for more than ten years, and he is really enjoying seeing the fruits of his team’s labors hit the markets now. Swiss Made caught up with Mr. Schaffner in his Basel offices. sm Is Davidoff affiliated with the cologne company? Yes, the company was founded in the early 1980s, we were awarding licenses to other companies and fragrances was one of the first to be started. We had up to ten licensors at one time, but there was a risk that our message would get muddled. In order to improve, we decided to take back some of the licenses (watches, writing instruments and leather goods) and do the business ourselves. We can give a clear image, position it the way we want, and communicate a consistent message. sm Are you satisfied with the offerings from Davidoff? If we weren’t satisfied with the products, we wouldn’t have launched them, and there is more to come. At the end of the day, improvements are what push us forward. We always want to be better and better. There is a lot of our blood in it. I have been here from the beginning, when the idea was born until now. We knew it would be a lot of work, but when you are in the middle of it, there is ten times more work than we imagined. It’s very rewarding, seeing how other people react to it, seeing how the product came out. sm Which watch is your favorite? I love all of them, but personally what I wear most is the gold Very Zino chronograph, the flagship product
when it comes to price. I also love the chronograph with the rubber strap for more active occasions. sm Will Davidoff use an ambassador for the luxury accessories? If we have an ambassador, it’s crucial that it makes sense. There must be a link between the message you want to give and the ambassador. So, for example, we use an ambassador for the fragrance Adventure, Ewan McGregor, because he is an authentic adventurer. sm What are some of the future products for Davidoff timepieces? World timers are a long-term development that makes sense for Davidoff. Materials that make sense are also in the future. We won’t necessarily go into high complications, but we will stay in complications useful for our target customers. In the Very Zino line, we will stay in the elliptical case, but we will also consider other case shapes for additional lines. We will offer choice when it makes sense. sm What is your motto? Think positive. I learned from my grandfather that even in difficult times there are positive aspects. There is a positive side to everything, sometimes it is just not so easy to find it. You have to think positively. ZINO DAVIDOFF 55
Standing the Test of Time Elite automaker Bugatti celebrates its centenary, putting the Veyron behind it and giving birth to the new Galibier. by Noah Joseph
Milestones have the unique capacity to change perspective. When the Volkswagen Group acquired Bugatti, it was already one of the oldest, most storied marques in automotive history. The Alsatian automaker founded by Ettore Bugatti was the most successful manufacturer in pre-war grand prix racing, and was responsible for crafting some of the most sought-after automobiles ever created, but had since faded into obscurity. An Italian concern had revived the company in the 1990â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s with a series of sumptuous concept cars and had given birth to the EB110, a quad-turbo V12 exotic supercar that continues to stand the test of time as one of the most remarkable machines ever devised. But financial troubles eventually relegated Bugatti back into the history books until the vast German auto consortium brought it back to life. Under new management, Bugatti became the showcase for what the enormous engineering competence of the Volkswagen Group was capable of achieving. Initially unveiled as a concept car in 1999, Bugatti and its new patrons in Wolfsburg stunned the industry when they announced that they would put the Veyron 16.4 into production. An innovative W16 engine with four turbochargers produced in excess of 1000 horsepower driving through a pivotal seven-speed dual-clutch
Ettore Bugatti 1905
T57 Gangloff Cabriolet, 1937
Ettore and Roland Bugatti, 1933
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T57, Galibier, 1939
T251 Grand Prix 1956
T101 Coupe, 1951
BUGATTI GALIBIER 57
transmission to all four wheels to propel the Veyron to a record-shattering top speed of over 400 kilometers per hour. As the costs for development and production continued to escalate at a rate to rival the Veyron’s acceleration, a viable business case was left in the blur of the supercar’s wake. In the way of justification, the Bugatti Veyron stood, as it stands still, as the automotive embodiment of one raison d’être: because we can. Not satisfied to achieve mechanical perfection in the automotive sphere alone, Bugatti turned to Parmigiani Fleurier to craft a timepiece to match the Veyron’s excellence. Few watchmakers would be capable of matching such a feat. But when Parmigiani returned with the Type
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370, it proved itself Bugatti’s equal in innovation and craftsmanship. The 370’s unique mechanism was designed from scratch as the world’s first transverse timepiece, showcasing its bridges and train wheels from the top and its display cantered on the lower face. Its purpose, Parmigiani explained, was to inform its wearer of the time without having to remove his hands from the steering wheel. But its overwhelming complication betrayed a much simpler justification: like the spirit that gave birth to the supercar it was made to accompany, Parmigiani created this showcase of watchmaking brilliance simply to prove that it could. 100 years since Ettore Bugatti founded the company, a decade since the debut of the Veyron concept car and five years since Parmigiani unveiled its groundbreaking timepiece, Bugatti is celebrating its centenary this year. The automaker kicked off celebrations with a series of special edition Veyrons which would ultimately be the last. As the Veyron reached the end of its 300-unit production line, so too would the Parmigiani Fleurier Type 370 finish
its limited run of 200. But not before the Swiss watchmaking atelier would craft two last examples to celebrate its counterpart’s landmark anniversary. For the final pair of unique Type 370 Bugatti Centenaire timepieces, Parmigiani Fleuerier enlisted the services of master engraver Philippe Bodenmann, who spent an incredible 300 hours etching the diamond patterns into the cases of each of the two: one crafted in 18-karat Rose Gold, and the second in Platinum 950, each fitted with a calfskin strap furnished by Hermès – the same Parisian fashion house with which Bugatti collaborated on the special-edition Veyron Fbg. With the Bugatti Veyron now speeding off into the proverbial sunset and the Parmigiani Fleurier Type 370 timing its progress with unrivaled mechanical precision, the question on everyone’s minds across the industry and around the world was what Bugatti would do next. Surpassing the Veyron’s epic performance figures, after all, would border on the maniacal. With its point already proven, the Alsatian auto marque reflected on the past
century of history and drew from it an ever so slightly more mature, sedated response in the form of the Galibier 16C. Unveiled at the company’s Château St. Jean headquarters in Molsheim, France, to an exclusive cadre of clients and reporters in advance of this year’s Frankfurt Auto Show, the Bugatti Galibier 16C is a shining example of excellence in versatility – at least in relation to its predecessor. Succeeding the midengine, two-door body-style of the Veyron, the Galibier showcases the epitome of the luxury four-door saloon. Its engine is derived from the same program that gave birth to its precursor, only slightly detuned 800 horsepower in output – a figure which pales only in comparison to the Veyron’s, but still surpasses any rival by order of magnitude. Its name is derived from the precarious Alpine road through which the Tour de France passes, and pays homage to the original four-door Bugatti Type 57 that bore the same name over seventy years ago. As Bugatti passes the 100-year milestone and replaces the Veyron with the Galibier, it once again turned to Parmigiani Fleurier for an encore performance of the excellence it demonstrated with the Type 370. This time, Parmigiani crafted a tourbillon mechanism, a shining example of the most intricate and sought-after of watch movements ever devised, wherein the entire mechanism rotates inside the case, originally designed to counteract the effects of gravity on a mechanism’s precision over time. But as could be expected from a workshop as creative as Parmigiani, the Bugatti Tourbillon doesn’t stop there. Instead, the Swiss firm went one step further to integrate the watch into the car itself and echo the Galibier’s versatility. Joining the four wheels, four doors, four seats, four cylinder banks and four turbochargers that characterize the Galibier, Parmigiani’s tourbillon has four uses: it can be worn on the wrist or in the pocket, docked into the car’s dashboard or mounted into a desktop winding display. Whereas the Veyron and the Type 370 were mechanical marvels to be used on select occasions, Bugatti and Parmigiani designed the Galibier and the accompanying Tourbillon to go with their owner wherever the road takes them. It’s an approach that reflects perspective born of time, harnessing the same mechanical precision and engineering excellence that has motivated Bugatti for a hundred years to propel the marque – and with it, its partners – forward for another century to come.
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sm haute joaillerie
Whatever their inspiration, Piaget Haute Joaillerie creations express a singleminded vocation based on expertise and a love of fresh challenges, as well as boundless creativity and the determination to “always do better than necessary”. The brandmotto is once again illustrated through this array of fairytale models testifying to the talent and genius of its dedicated artisans.
he “secret” watches introduced by PIaget this year conceal the passing of time beneath a gleaming cloak of light. Their lines echo the world of haute couture. Whether in small or large versions, they exude an extraordinary sense of flowing elegance. Adorned with 250 baguette-cut diamonds in the large version, the bracelet is draped in precious ribbons that seem about to come untied, offering a vivid reminder that Piaget is definitely the jeweller of movement. The asymmetrical design lends a modern touch, reinforced by the cloisonné gem-setting. Simply pressing the gemset cover reveals a magnificent dial crafted in iridescent marquetry-worked mother-of-pearl and set with round-
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cut diamonds. Once closed, the watch returns to its role as a full-fledge piece of jewellery in its own right. 870 hours of intricate workmanship and 200 hours of gem-setting were required to achieve the incredibly bold final result of a piece that is truly amazing both in terms of its design and its execution called for almost. Dexterity, visual acuity and experience combine to provide each gemstone with the setting that will best highlight its radiance. After thousands of hours of patient, skilled craftsmanship lavished on them by the goldsmiths and gem-setters, the Piaget jewellery dreams spring to vibrant life. While the design of these four Haute Joaillerie creations testifies to the variety of inspiration and the creative independence of the Maison, the techniques employed have followed the same complex path over the past 50 years, entirely dedicated to the relentless pursuit of perfection.
Piaget Haute Joaillerie
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Bertolucci GIOCO SWISS MADE magazine DELUXE
CHOPARD Happy Spirit For those who prefer snowy summits and the ethereal whiteness of a winter landscape, the famous Happy Diamonds jewellery collection has now transformed into Happy Hearts. Pendants and earrings of small white gold hearts, with or without a setting, accentuate a face or a neckline.
Audacity and exception
Bertolucci’s Haute Couture is a luxurious, daring combination, revealing the jeweler’s expertise in prestigious pieces crafted entirely by hand with the most precious of materials. Structured and startling, GIOCO was born as a result of the perfect alliance between the traditional high-end jewellery and the candid interpretation of feminine fantasy. It marries without inhibition a timeless style with a refined extravagance to become an astounding piece of true luxury. Bertolucci’s GIOCO celebrates the hypnotic beauty of women, whose unique appearance illuminates the evenings and captures the entire attention. Dedicated to adorn the wrist of the most elegant and discerning woman, each model is created in a limited edition of only five pieces. True objects reflecting the art of bespoken jewellery, entirely crafted by hand, both the GIOCO pieces emphasize the mystery of seduction with such a pure dial, which seemingly slides indefinitely into a swirling abyss of 18 carat gold. Once again, Bertolucci draws upon the arts of watchmaking and jewellery with an unchallenged craftsmanship to achieve a true work of high-end jewellery. An innovative and complex construction gives life to a bezel made of 6 different elements, set one by one and assembled by hand on the dial. A totally new and daring architecture for a watch with a unique charisma. GIOCO glitters in white gold combined with its case, dial and buckle adorned with 527 full cut diamonds, which sparkle amidst the enlightened evenings.
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PRIMA LUNA by Susan Roibinson
Often called the world’s most beautiful woman, Aishwarya Rai Bachchan has been a Longines Ambassador of Elegance for 10 years.
he award-winning Indian actress, model and former Miss World shares a love of excellence, elegance and beauty with the Swiss luxury watch brand.
How fitting that Bachchan’s timeless charm is captured for posterity in the advertising campaign for a new collection of women’s watches, Longines PrimaLuna. The collection pays tribute to the moon, a symbol of femininity that has in common with Bachchan traits such as radiance, grace and mystery. The star is the perfect embodiment of the company’s values and slogan, “Elegance is an attitude.” Not only is Bachchan lovely in appearance, but influential as well. Whenever she is spotted sporting new clothes or accessories, it sets off a fashion trend. Choosing what to wear, she says, is “about being open to life and trying different things out.” However, she is one of those rare (and lucky!) women who need not try hard to look beautiful. With an hourglass figure to match her exotic good looks, Bachchan is equally as gorgeous in everyday attire as she is in haute couture for a fashion shoot or a red carpet affair. If a magazine catches your eye at a newsstand anywhere in the world, there’s a good chance that Bachchan is gracing the cover. During the filming of the advertising campaign for the PrimaLuna, Longines representatives are able to enjoy a day with Bachchan. Beneath the bright sun in Rajasthan, the Rambagh Palace in Jaipur, India, is the background for the event. Under the direction of Farrokh Chothia, India’s leading fashion photographer, and advertising filmmaker Kiiran Deohans, preparations are made. Assistants rush to make sure everything is ready for the arrival of the star. Suddenly she appears. She can entrance anyone with a glance, a smile, those stunning green-gray eyes and high cheekbones. The stylist, the hairdresser and the makeup artist attend to her, and Chothia and Deohans check every detail. Like the professional she is, Bachchan closely follows their instructions. Finally the team is ready and filming begins. Bachchan is joined by a troupe of traditional dancers who have traveled from Delhi especially for this event. The Indian star mesmerizes those watching her dance, her long, luscious locks flowing over her undulating form. The black evening gown she wears is at once simple and elegant, enhancing her movements. Chothia follows every step, taking a series of still photographs, and the film cam-
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era does the same. The scene finishes with a flurry, and a breathless Bachchan collapses on a sofa. Then she grins, turns to the camera and murmurs, “You make my head spin.” The glamorous and accomplished Bachchan is an ideal spokeswoman for the new Longines timepiece. Soft and yet strong, the mysterious PrimaLuna emerges from the night into a wakening world. The moon is no longer pale but iridescent, opaline and masterful. The exquisite purity of the dial enhances the PrimaLuna’s silhouette, and sparkling diamonds add to the magnificence the face. Graceful and magical, this watch will seduce women who appreciate contemporary, sophisticated elegance. The PrimaLuna collection offers several options: stainless steel, the rich hue of rose or yellow gold, a blend of rose gold and steel, or a leather strap. Choose from a selection of heavenly dials: white, silvered or mother-of-pearl decorated with hour symbols, Arabic or Roman numerals or diamonds. Three hands — blued, gilded or rose — mark the passing of time. As multifaceted as the modern woman, the PrimaLuna range comes in four sizes. This watch is also a piece of jewelry. The pleasing curves of the case are embellished by a play of diamonds, and pieces of pure carbon glitter with fascination. Similarly, the white mother-of-pearl dials of the most sophisticated models also sport sparkling teardrops that will appeal to any woman who loves diamonds. Ah, what a little moonlight can do!
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Be part of a Splendide experience.
Enjoy the elegance, discrete luxury and magic atmosphere of the Hotel Splendide Royal. In our historic palace, you will experience the tradition of hospitality and fine dining that has been valued by royal families, celebrities and famous artists from all over the world. In our restaurant, you will savor the local flavors of our contemporary Italian cuisine.
Hotel Splendide Royal Lugano - Riva Caccia 7 - 6900 Lugano - Switzerland - tel. +41 91 985 77 11 - fax +41 91 985 77 22 - e-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org - www.splendide.ch
Macyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Passport is a mega-fashion show theatrical production that has - over 27 years in San Francisco and Los Angeles - grown to become one of the largest and longest-running HIV/AIDS events of its kind. by Lord Martine
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Photos by John Barneson
t all began modestly as an awarenessraising men’s fashion show in Macy’s employee cafeteria in 1982, today it’s part cutting-edge fashion show, Broadway production, rock concert and sporting event featuring 44 models and 32 adult and children dancers on a 125-foot runway. This year, Macy’s Passport featured the latest fall looks from Rachel Roy, Hugo Boss, Calvin Klein along with American Rag, Levi’s, Tallia, Papi, and b.tempt’d by Wacoal. The Harajuku Girls put on a high-energy dance performance directed by celebrity choreographer Brian Friedman. Since the onset of the AIDS pandemic in the early 1980s, Macy’s—in steadfast partnership with the Macy’s Foundation, sponsors, top designers and community organizations—has stood strong year after year to raise invaluable awareness and more than $28 million for HIV/AIDS services, prevention and research. Governed by show director Larry Hashbarger
and celebrities such as Elizabeth Taylor and Sharon Stone, Macy’s Passport works closely with the community, which is the heartbeat of this beloved production. “According to the CDC, every 9 ½ minutes someone in the United States becomes infected with HIV. Therefore we need a collective response that meets the severity of the pandemic head-on, and reaches all populations at risk by supporting research, care, prevention and education programs,” says Terry J. Lundgren, Macy’s chairman, president and CEO. “Macy’s understands the heartbreak and devastation caused by HIV/AIDS and we have taken a leadership role in this worthwhile cause for more than a quarter century.” Responding to the pandemic that is HIV/AIDS Macy’s Passport carefully selects beneficiaries and opens its doors to present a special night for 2,100 teens called Fashion Inform. Headlining beneficiaries include: AIDS Emergency Fund, which provides financial assistance to people with HIV to help stabilize their living situations; Glide Memorial Church with provides a comprehensive range of supportive and preventative programs; and Project Open Hand, which provides meals and groceries to homebound people living with HIV/AIDS. Fashion Inform Teen Night beneficiaries are Huckleberry Youth Programs which provides HIV education, shelter, job readiness training, leadership development to runaway and at-risk youth; New Conservatory Theatre, which gives an artistic voice to the LGBT community educating thousands on critical wellness issues through its landmark YouthAware series; and the School Health Programs Department, which addresses the health needs of school children and their families.
MACY’S PASSPORT 69
the most exciting new environmentally-friendly performance automobiles coming to market in the near future
Toward this important cause, Swiss watchmaker Parmigiani donated this Year a very special limited edition timepiece to a special raffle, helping raising additional important funds. “Passport is a significant signature Macy’s event,” Hashbarger concludes, “because it changes so many lives on so many levels. From the producers, models, dancers and crew to the members of the community we serve, we all Come Together for a few special nights of fabulous fashion, spectacular theatre and the greater good.”
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“Because the most important reason we do this every year is to help our dear friends in need, while honoring the friends we have lost.”
To support the cause, please visit: www.macys.com/Passport
The only Swiss luxury watch with a true Latin legacy
sm red carpet
Gift suites are a kind of Ali Baba’s cave for the rich and the famous. We met Nathalie Dubois, a.k.a. the queen of the gift suites. who has made a business out of it. By Claudia Laffranchi
One of the biggest perks of celebrity is getting free stuff, lots of it. The bigger and the wealthier stars are, the less they need to use a credit card. Aspiring actors struggle to pay their bills, but as soon as they make it, companies fight to give them free clothes, trips, accessories, jewelry, gadgets and whatever legal luxury one can imagine. Nathalie Dubois, a.k.a. the queen of the gift suite, has made a business out of it. Gift suites, for the uninitiated, are a kind of Ali Baba’s cave for the rich and the famous, held in five-star hotels in cities where movie and TV stars congregate: Cannes, Venice, Toronto, Dubai and Monte Carlo during the film and TV festivals, and Hollywood before the Oscars, the Golden Globes and the Emmys. “For a fee ranging from $3,000 to $15,000,” explained French-born Dubois, CEO of DPA gift suites, “companies get the chance to give their products to celebrities in exchange for a picture of the star with the gift, which SWISS MADE magazine DELUXE
can then be used in their promotional materials. This kind of exposure is much cheaper than regular advertising, product placement or hiring a PR firm. We help brands to expose their products to stars and the media with a single event.”
want new, exciting and exotic products every time,” said Dubois, a former journalist and event producer. “Therefore, we have a base of international brands, and we add 25 percent to 50 percent of local and new companies in every location.”
“We participated in two pre-Emmy gift suites produced by Nathalie,” confirmed Erika Seifred, PR representative for Eva Varro, an up-and-coming Los Angeles-based fashion designer, “and now our clothes are worn on several TV shows, like Desperate Housewives and The Price is Right, and a lot of the stars we met at the suites became clients.”
Some of the companies featured at DPA gift suites in the past are Chopard, Jaeger Le Coultre, Nespresso, Rene Caovilla, Pucci, Fendi, Robert Wan, Rene Furterer, Falke, Spatika and KoGenDo. One Swiss brand Dubois helped launch on the American market is watchmaker Aquanautic, which gave diamond timepieces to Katherine Heigl, Eva Longoria, Paula Abdul, Nicollette Sheridan and Michael Madsen, among others. But the who’s who of show business has visited Dubois’ suites all over the world, from Catherine Deneuve to Sting, Scarlett Johannson and Stefania Rocca, just to name a few.
Another designer who was “discovered” at Dubois’ suites is Lebanese-born Georges Hobeika, now a red carpet favorite worn by the likes of Holly Hunter, Diane Kruger and Vanessa Hudgens. But not everybody passes Dubois’ strict selection and editing. “We need to keep our standards high because celebrities
A must of DPA gift suites is the free stay in Bora Bora, offered this year by Pearl Resorts and the St. Regis Hotel, where in
passing on excellence in know-how
SHARON STONE wearing a DAMIANI high jewelry necklace STARS and LUXURY 73
the past stars such as Neil Patrick Harris, Hayden Panettiere and Milo Ventimiglia enjoyed the famous Tahitian hospitality. If some still wonder why stars get so much free stuff, it should be enough to remember that in our celebrityobsessed culture, people are inspired by stars’ looks and lifestyle, and brands understand that a picture of a star wearing their products or vacationing at their resorts is worth more than an advertisement campaign. Television, print and fashion blogs multiply these images ad infinitum. Like it or not, gifting celebrities is a winning strategy. The competition is especially hard for red carpet events. After a period when casual attire was king, in recent years glamour has come back with a vengeance at award shows, premieres and film festivals. Pictures of these high-profile events are seen all over the world, allowing for tons of free exposure. Designers fight over the biggest names, lavishing them with gifts and private plane trips to fashion shows. Normally, borrowed evening gowns and jewelry should be returned, but often stars consider them as compensation for services rendered. But gifts are practically not enough anymore. Superstars get so many options that they can change their minds at the last minute. Therefore, to ensure stars’ collaboration, designers actually pay them to wear their gowns or jewels, although nobody likes to discuss these deals in public. Rumors put the dollar amount around six figures for a single event. “Let’s say that dressing celebrities has become sort of a competitive sport,” said Wendell Figueroa Ruiz, director of communications at Damiani USA. “Everyone is running after a very small group of stylists who dress most of the stars. The difficulty arises from the fact that it has become a business in which gifts and money are exchanged. This means that, in some cases, stars don’t wear what is best for
them but what the stylists, or themselves, have been paid to wear.” Damiani is one company that doesn’t pay stars to wear its jewelry. “We rather base this process on personal rapport, one in which both parties trust each other and the star wears what she likes and not what she is paid to wear. It creates a long-lasting relationship,” Figueroa Ruiz said. “Geena Davis, Sophia Loren, Sharon Stone and Sofia Milos almost always wear Damiani on the red carpet, and last year Tilda Swinton, famous for her individual fashion sense, picked up her Oscar sporting our Sahara bracelet, a stunning cuff which won the Diamond International Award, one of the jewelry’s world top prizes, and she chose it just because she loved it.” But in the end, nobody gets anything for nothing, and the best way to ensure stars’ fidelity is to have them be the official image of a brand. Sophia Loren and Sharon Stone both grace Damiani campaigns. A-list stars smile from fashion magazines and billboards sporting the latest objects of desire. The list is long: Nicole Kidman for Omega, Charlize Theron for Raymond Weil, Leonardo DiCaprio for Tag Heuer, Madonna for Louis Vuitton (and before her Uma Thurman, Christina Ricci, Chloe Sevigny and Jennifer Lopez), Scarlett Johansson for Dolce & Gabbana, Hilary Swank for Guerlain, Eva Mendes for Calvin Klein, Halle Berry for Revlon. Even Robert De Niro lent his image to American Express in a campaign signed by his friend Martin Scorsese. Times have changed, and if in the past Hollywood stars were ashamed of doing commercials, or did so in Japan and European nations on the condition that the images wouldn’t leave those countries’ borders, nowadays being the spokesperson for a luxury brand has almost become a status symbol. Many stars even confess that starring in a good campaign allows them to say no to bad movies. And thus, everybody wins. photos by Kerstin Alm
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DISCOVER SWITZERLAND 77
GSTAAD Unique in so many ways
Nestled in a magnificent Alpine landscape, Gstaad is part of the Saanenland located in south western Switzerland, bordering on the Frenchspeaking part of the country.
he prestige value of the brand Gstaad comes top of the list. The internationally renowned brand which is associated with luxury and high society creates a value that resonates far beyond the actual main target group. Gstaad uses the slogan ‘come up, slow down’ to emphasise its wide range of offers, which can be consumed in peace and quiet. In doing so, Gstaad is providing a very deliberate counterpoint to the general societal trend of ‘achieving more in less time’. Alpine genuineness Despite a history of tourism dating back more than 100 years in the region, a genuine Alpine lifestyle still prevails in the destination of Gstaad. For instance, it is home to approx. 150 agricultural businesses, 80 alps still in operation and about 7,000 cows. Local products, such as cheese and meat as well as craft traditions, are very popular. Houses with a chalet architectural style dominate the villages in the region, of which Gstaad represents the tourist centre. Some of the cosy buildings date from the 15th century. The destination is divided into five attractive side valleys. This fact is what the legend of God’s hand is based on, which is said to have had a rest there during creation. The altitude of between 1,000 and 1,400 metres above sea level has a positive effect on personal well-being. Forests, green areas, streams, lakes and the mountain panorama create an impressive backdrop. Diversity in winter Gstaad has an exceptionally diverse range of winter offers: these include 250 kilometres of ski slopes and the only glacier ski area in the Bernese Oberland, cosy mountain restaurants and ski slope bars. Specialists enjoy themselves in different snow parks or in the extensive freeride and ski touring area. Gstaad is also one of the top three cross-country ski areas in Switzerland and is considered a tobogganist’s paradise. In the area of beauty and wellness, Gstaad is also among the leading providers. Five top hotels spoil their guests with a complete offering, while eight other businesses offer their own wellness infrastructure and Alpine applications, such as barefoot walks, hay baths and whey baths. SWISS MADE magazine DELUXE
No other holiday region spoils its guests’ palates like Gstaad does. More than 100 restaurants ranging from a cosy raclette restaurant to a gourmet restaurant are available to choose from. The renowned Gault Millau restaurant guide recently awarded 13 chefs from the region a total of 191 points. The Alpine businesses also offer various accommodation options. With less than 12,000 inhabitants, the holiday destination of Gstaad has an offering of cultural and sporting events which would be extraordinary even for urban regions. Every year, guests can choose from more than 1,000 different events. Some of these events have a top international format, such as the Menuhin Festival or the Allianz Suisse Open tennis tournament – to name but a few. All things considered, Gstaad can be considered a paradise for people who think that enjoyment and wellbeing is more important than ‘ticking off as many new attractions as possible’. The region has and conveys to its guests a stylish and cultured attitude to life.
The combination of the special experiences for which Gstaad is so famous is unrivalled. It cannot be found anywhere else and makes Gstaad the ‘last paradise in a crazy world’ (quote by Julie Andrews, a regular visitor to Gstaad). The region can be reached easily by train or car from the Lake Thun region, the Lake Geneva area and the Gruyère area. The view of the snow-capped Bern, Fribourg and Vaud Alps as well as the Gelten and Diablerets Glaciers are a mountain lover’s paradise!
Interested in ultimate igloo luxury? Spend a night in the most exclusive igloo with private whirlpool. Available at Davos, Gstaad and Zermatt, the Romantic Igloo Suite is for two persons, with prices starting at CHF 470.- (EUR 309.-) up to CHF 630.- (EUR 429.-) if you decide to take your lover here to spend a memorable New Year’s Eve. The Igloo Villages also offer overnight accommodation in Standard Igloos, which have space for six people. Stays in the Igloo Villages are available in Gstaad, Davos, Engelberg and Zermatt from December 31st, 2009 until April 10, 2010. Each location has a different wellness-offer and not every location has every room-type. If you fancy taking a group of friends along or gather a private party or company clients to a unique experience, you can even rent an entire Igloo Village for a night including apéritif, evening meal, whirlpool/sauna, breakfast and a snowshoe hike. The Igloo Bar at the Snow Palace is the perfect place to go whether you would like to enjoy an après-ski drink, to rest after a hiking trek or just a quick stop between ski runs. A visit to the bar is a pleasure to all senses which should not be missed! Funky music, brilliant service from our ‘bar Inuits’ and a good selection of snacks and munchies make the Igloo Bar an unforgettable experience. As we all know, the food of the “Alpine Inuit” is cheese fondue! You can enjoy delicious cheese fondue in an unparalleled atmosphere inside the igloo or on the snow terrace. Whether it is your daytime meal between ski runs or in the evening by candlelight – it is all up to you.
Build a classic igloo block by block with your boyfriend, girlfriend, family, friends, or co-workers! Or how about building several of them all at once? Experience the highlight of putting the last block into a snow house!
For more information or bookings: www.iglu-dorf.com GASTAAD 79
SAAS FEE The Pearl of the Alps
Saas-Fee, the Pearl of the Alps, is situated amidst the highest mountains in Switzerland. Let the magic of the Saas-Valley cast its spell on you.
n winter the high-altitude valley benefits from its elevation and enjoys guaranteed snow. Apart from being able to ski up to an altitude of 3600 m above sea-level, visitors also benefit from a wide variety of shops and entertainment. Whether you want to indulge in a little après-ski or enjoy a gentle stroll, whether you want to join in a game of curling or a night-time sledding run, there is every kind of entertainment in the Saas Valley! Majestic four-thousand-metre peaks, glaciers so close you could almost touch them, a deep blue sky: that’s the Saas Valley. Discover the unique world of mountains which fascinates visitors in both summer and winter. The four villages in the Saas Valley have a wide variety of activities for tourists all year round.
Saas-Fee lies in an idyllic valley surrounded by the highest mountains in the Swiss Alps. No less than 13 four-thousandmetre peaks encircle our village at the foot of the glaciers like a shell and give it its distinctive name “the Pearl of the Alps”. Let yourself fall under its spell and enjoy your holiday in the fresh, clean alpine air because there are no cars in the village. Saas-Grund is the village at the heart of the Saas Valley and offers a wide variety of activities for tourists. It is the ideal starting place for undertaking the legendary high-altitude Saas trails. From Hohsaas (3100 m above sea-level) you can enjoy a breathtaking view of all 18 four-thousand-metre peaks which surround the area - a real highlight of your holiday. Saas-Almagell, the home village of the Olympic champion Pirmin Zurbriggen is the most southerly village in the Saas Valley. The natural dam at Mattmark is a top tourist attraction. Saas-Almagell is a friendly, family-oriented village which has retained the character of a typical Valais mountain village to the present day. Saas-Balen, a refuge for rest and relaxation. You can see an enormous variety of alpine flowers at Heimischgartu (2100 m above sea-level) and by the milky Grüebe lake. Well worth seeing is the late-baroque round church, a building of national importance, and the roaring Fellbach stream which runs through the middle of the village.
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photos: swiss-image.ch, Saas Fee Tourism
A wide range of summer and winter events In winter, the focus is on sports events. Every January/February, the multi-storey car park is transformed for Ice Climbing World Cup. The Allalin Races and Glacierbike Downhill attracts a large following interested in sports every spring. Various other sports events ensure that thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s no time for boredom, for Example Schneegaudi at Easter or the Horn sledge race in Saas-Grund in March. It goes without saying that there are more relaxing activities to join in with the Chain of lights, or as a torchlight hike or a luscious fondue in a romantic mountain hut. The parish church is also a regular venue for a range of concerts. The mountain summer in Saas-Fee is especially notable for its folkloristic and musical events. Starting in July, you can enjoy weekly summer concerts performed by local clubs, such as the dancing chorus wearing traditional costumes, the alphorn friends from the glacier village, the yodeller clubs, the musics of the olden days and the music societies. Of course, there are musical highlights, such as the International Alpine Music Festival, taking place in July, and our classical music festival weeks, the Saas-Fee Raiffeisen Festival in August. Furthermore, there will again exciting Cow fightings and Alpine farmes festivals take place in July and August in the whole Saas Valley. But there are not only musical events awaiting our visitors. Also other special summer activities to make our guestsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; hearts beat faster, such as the thrilling Freeski Event, the Saas-Fee Ride (July), our Festival dei Festival Lugano visits Saas-Fee (July) mountain movie days, and our 5th Nostalgic Culinary Mile in September. In autumn there is once again pure action scheduled! Then the FIS Snowboard World Cup
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JUNGFRAU TOP OF EUROPE
The unforgettable trip to our high-Alpine wonderland of eternal ice and snow is the true “highlight” of a visit to Switzerland. At an amazing 3454 metres, this is Europe’s highest-altitude railway station.
he JUNGFRAU REGION south of Interlaken is the rather uninspiring title foisted on what is perhaps the most dramatic, certainly the most memorable, mountain scenery in the whole of Switzerland. The Matterhorn may be more recognizable, Davos and St Moritz may be flashier, but the quantity and sheer scale of the awesome giants on offer here at close quarters takes your breath away. The area is dominated by the mighty triple crest of the Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau (Ogre, Monk and Virgin) – three giant peaks rising side-by-side to 4000m and seemingly always mentioned in the same breath. The Jungfrau is the focus, partly because it’s the highest (at 4158m), and partly because the network of mountain trains from Interlaken Ost culminates at the Jungfraujoch, a saddle below the Jungfrau peak that claims the honour of being the site of the highest train station in Europe. The ride up to the summit – dubbed the “Top of Europe” – is touted endlessly in Interlaken and beyond as being the highlight of a Swiss visit and, despite the hype, it’s not far wrong. However, plenty of equally stunning scenery is also to be had at lower altitudes. The region is focused on two valleys, which divide a few kilometres south of Interlaken. To the west is the famous Lauterbrunnen valley, celebrated with justification as the loveliest mountain valley in Europe, with its alluring resorts of Wengen and Mürren. To the east, the narrow Lütschen valley widens out on its way to the bustling town of Grindelwald, perfectly placed for its many visitors to take advantage of the hiking and skiing possibilities all around. Excellent transport around all these places – mostly trains, but also taking in cable-cars, funiculars and the odd bus – means that you can roam to your heart’s content, which, with the quality of natural scenery on offer, may take a while. Mountain trains throughout the Jungfrau region are operated by the Jungfraubahnen (033/828 71 11, www.jungfraubahn.ch). They have a Jungfraubahnen Pass, valid for free travel on their entire network apart from the Kleine Scheidegg–Jungfraujoch section (on which passholders travel for half the full fare). The pass, valid for five consecutive days, costs Fr.133, or Fr.85 to holders of the Swiss Half-Fare Card. Eurailers get a 25 percent discount on all Jungfraubahnen trains, except where mentioned in the guide text. Swiss Pass holders get free travel on trains to Mürren, Wengen and Grindelwald, and a 25 percent discount on journeys higher up. InterRail brings no discount at all, apart from on the few occasions mentioned in the guide text.
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First Flyer The First Flyer (originated in the USA where it is known as a Zip Rider) gives four people the chance to simultaneously yet independently glide through the air on a length of cable about 800 metres long, at speeds of up to 84km/h. In effect the construction is four parallel Tyroliennes, which link the starting and finishing platforms without supporting masts. Guests sit in a special harness which is very similar to that used for paragliding. The harness is attached to a safe roller mechanism. The facility is just as suitable for use in winter as in summer and makes a spectacular addition to the other mountain activities on offer. The First Flyer is suitable for people of all ages: it will fascinate children and adults and the fact that four people can use the First Flyer at the same time highlights the attraction as a family and group experience. The dream of swishing through the air becomes reality with the First Flyer; particularly as the high speed and maximum height of 45 metres above ground create a high-flying feeling! This kind of facility is currently found only in the USA (Park City, Snowbird, Utah Olympic Park, Icy Strait Point, Wildcat and Heavenly Valley) and in Siberia (Krasnojarsk). The facility at GrindelwaldFirst is thus the first of its kind in Europe.
Photo provided by Tschuggen Grand Hotel SWISS MADE magazine DELUXE
à la Tschuggen Europe’s First Super Spa by Mario Botta
With the recently opened Tschuggen Bergoase designed by the Swiss star architect Mario Botta, the Tschuggen Grand Hotel has not only created an unmistakeable visual landmark, but also redefined the much-used term “Wellness”. With the greatest possible well-being of its guests in mind, visions have been turned into reality in this unique building – especially in terms of architecture and interior design.
Waiting for the ski bus? Queuing at the lift? Not any more.
“Time is luxury” – this saying also applies to the traditional winter holidays, in which the daily journey from hotel to the long awaited first downhill descent can sometimes take up to an hour. Waiting for the ski bus in the freezing cold or standing around in uncomfortable ski boots for the cable car – that’s passé for guests of the Tschuggen Grand Hotel this winter. Winter holiday visitors can be on the slopes in less than 2½ minutes each morning thanks to the new Tschuggen Express. The only one of its kind in the Alps, this futuristic mountain railway – exclusively for the use of hotel guests – begins on 27 November its first full winter season, which runs until mid April 2010.
SWISS MADE magazine DELUXE
The Tschuggen Express successfully completed its final winter test begun in February 2009, and in the summer, it brought hiking guests to the summit. And now the management and staff of the five-star establishment are keenly anticipating the official start to the first full winter season for the hotel’s own rail taxi. At the touch of a button, the two cabins of the Tschuggen Express take 12 hotel guests directly to the skiing area each trip. While guests enjoy the view over the snow-clad mountain peaks from the comfort of their leather seats, the train gains 150 metres in altitude over a stretch of 528 metres of track. The maximum incline is 52 per cent. The Tschuggen Express travels at a speed of 4 metres per second, allowing the journey to be completed in less than two and a half minutes.
ituated in Arosa at an altitude of 1800 metres, the Tschuggen Grand Hotel is also setting new standards in hospitality and gastronomic terms. The nine opulent, yet filigree glass sails of the Tschuggen Bergoase, a structure laid out in the form of a terrace and inset into the rock, direct daylight into the centre of the well-being oasis. At night they create an impressive spectacle of lights amongst the trees. With four levels and an area of 5000 square metres, the guest can experience a new dimension of warmth, rock, light and water. The natural materials are conducive to peaceful relaxation. A harmonious, low-key design runs throughout from the sauna landscapes to the various pools and the exclusive spa suites. A large fitness area with the very latest machines completes the facilities of the Tschuggen Bergoase. The Tschuggen Grand Hotel’s 130 totally renovated rooms and suites bear the hallmark of the renowned Swiss interior designer Carlo Rampazzi. They convey a combination of extravagance and harmonious idyll. Patchwork bed heads in youthful and humorous or discreet designs have developed into a trademark of the hotel. The pillows and bedspreads are perfectly coordinated with the rest of the design. Fine Venetian stucco on walls and ceilings, carefully selected charac-
teristic furniture, imaginative accessories and large, luxurious bathrooms create a modern experience of well-being with an incomparable view of the Arosa mountain scenery. Gastronomic diversity is provided by the five in-house restaurants which have committed themselves to down-to-earth cuisine – whether for a gala dinner or a raclette evening. Great importance is attached to fresh produce, herbs and mouth-watering flavours, prepared in unusual and individual styles and with a new unpretentiousness. The “La Vetta” gourmet restaurant was included in the GaultMillau 2007 guide with 14 points at the first attempt. In response to the enormous success, the Tschuggen Grand Hotel opens for ten months from June until April since 2008. The mild and agreeable mountain summer in the Alps makes it a perfect location for hiking, mountain-biking, Nordic walking or golf on the highest 18-hole golf-course in Europe at an altitude of 2000 metres.
Tschuggen Grand Hotel ***** Sonnenbergstrasse CH-7050 Arosa Tel. +41 (0)81 378 99 99 www.tschuggen.ch
Tradition and MODERNITY The world of watchmaking celebrates today the return to the values of the past and the tradition.
EBERHARD & CO Tazio Nuvolari Edition Limité Grand Prix Inspired by a myth of motor sport, Tazio Nuvolari, described as “the greatest driver of the past, present and future”. The exclusive chronograph, produced in a limited edition of 999 pieces, retains the distinctive characteristics of the previous “Tazio Nuvolari” model, created and produced with a deliberate philosophy, based on the instrumentation of the vintage racing car. The driver’s seat of the extraordinary vehicles, in which the much celebrated driver achieved many victories, was in fact one of the sources that inspired Eberhard’s technicians, both on the aesthetic and functional levels. The instruments located on the car dashboard reflected the demands of essentialness, distinctness, ease of reading, precision, weatherproofing and shock resistance, and all these indispensible requirements are also featured in the new edition of the watch. “Tazio Nuvolari Edition Limitée Grand Prix TN” becomes synonymous with passion, strength and speed, all fundamental characteristics of the essence of sports racing and its long and deep-rooted tradition.
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CUERVO Y SOBRINOS
Marine Royale Alarm
Torpedo Historiador Semanal
Prime Time Egos Chronograph Day & Date
Breguet’s Marine Royale 5847 comes with an alarm device that can only delight both amateur divers and aficionados of exceptional complications. Underwater tests confirm that sound travels better through water than through air.
With the new Torpedo Historiador Semanal (“Weekly Historian Torpedo”), Cuervo y Sobrinos brings to life again one of their most emblematic historic models. This watch is a revival on a modern note of the Cuervo y Sobrinos dating back to the 40s. The original mechanism was created and subsequently patented in 1944 by a Fontainemelon manufacturer of Swiss movements. Cuervo y Sobrinos was using this original movement during many years between 1945 and 1955. The Swiss Watch manufacturer decided to reproduce this calibre, creating their own module to enhance the original product. Two years’ research was devoted to developing this model and the result was well worth the effort.
Steel back with dodecagonal case in CENTURY black sapphire with 12 facets cut and polished by hand. Black dial with red oversized 8. Self-winding mechanical movement, COSC-certified chronometer. Black canvas strap with deployment clasp.
Sound waves require material support and their speed increases with the density of the environment. Sound travels about four times faster under than above water. Furthermore, as the underwater milieu is generally far less noisy than the aerial one, the alarm’s sound is perceived with greater clarity underwater.
Al2O3 The signature CENTURY sapphire is a jewel of eternal beauty whose facets have been hand cut and polished by our master craftsmen.
WATCH SELECTION 89
“LUVORENE”: an unusual yet charming name, an anagram of “Révolune” thought up by Vincent Bérard, a combination of the French words “rêve”, “lune” and “révolution” – dream, moon, revolution.
A new world first for the Louis Moinet workshops! No fewer than three years were needed to create the Tempograph, the only watch in the world to feature a visible 10-second retrograde mechanism. The perpetual movement of the cam and retrograde hand offers a mesmerizing spectacle, with the cam releasing a titanium and white gold lever in an unconventional dance routine every ten seconds
The Tissot Couturier watches express their madeto-measure character through a selection of five different movements. There are two Tissot Couturier Chrono Auto models, one powered by the celebrated 7750 Valjoux movement, the other by a newly developed ETA C01.211 mechanism. In these timepieces, the attention to detail is evident in small, finely marked, round chronograph counters, mirrored by a circular white date display. The Tissot Couturier Gent Auto turns heads with its symmetrical design, which is underlined by a two-part, arc-shaped date display at 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock. The Tissot Couturier Gent Quartz is a three-hand timepiece that seduces with its simplicity. Its counterpart is the Tissot Chrono Quartz with larger counters and a rectangular date window.
The new “LUVORENE 2” range is presented in a wider, 45 mm casing, and with transparent-sapphire blue faces which reveal the exquisiteness of the mechanism and of the “mysterious” balance, arranged offset at 3 o’clock. The unique aesthetics of the exclusive VB 441 mechanism by Vincent Bérard with its plate and spindle-shaped bridges, arranged in five stages, manually adorned, are revealed when you open the lid of the transparent bottom of the casing.
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Fine watchmaking enthusiasts will appreciate the complexity of the movement, which comprises 125 components, and delight in the exceptional new case which, with its 48 components, is a veritable feat of virtuosity.
RJ WATCHES SA • 8 RUE ROBERT CÉARD • 1204 GENEVA • SWITZERLAND • T. +41 (0)22 319 29 39 • INFO@ROMAINJEROME.CH • WWW.ROMAINJEROME.CH
Victorinox 125 years on the cutting edge by Susan Robinson
nce in a great while, distinction, innovation and refinement bond to create a brand of unmistakable character. Such is the case with Victorinox, a conglomerate known throughout the world for its iconic image and Swiss Made quality. As the company celebrates its 125th jubilee this year, it also enjoys an ever-expanding product line. Each product bears the anniversary message inspired by the legendary Victorinox Swiss Army Knife, “Your companion for life.”
“A real boy always has a pocket knife along.” And if he’s lucky, it’s an Original Swiss Army Knife, not so much a possession as it is a faithful friend.
Through its subsidiaries and partners, Victorinox is today represented all over the world. The worldwide sales organization includes brand stores in Tokyo, New York and Paris as well as the first Flagship Store in London and a newly opened Flagship store in Geneva. The beginning With the support of his mother, Victoria, Karl Elsener founded his cutlery workshop in Schwyz, Switzerland, in 1884. In the 19th century, Switzerland was a poor country, and unemployment forced many citizens to emigrate. Confronted with this situation, Elsener sought to create jobs. However, because he did not want to build a factory at this time, he founded the Swiss Cutlers’ Association, with the goal of cooperating to produce within Switzerland the knives for Swiss Army soldiers. The first delivery to the Army was made in 1891. Somewhat later, Elsener developed the Original Swiss Army Knife. This was lighter and more elegant than the official soldier’s knife and included six practical tools.
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After his mother died in 1909, Elsener introduced the brand name Victoria in her honor. That same year, he registered the distinctive emblem with the cross and shield as a trademark. It is now a registered trademark in more than 120 countries. In 1921, the invention of stainless steel was of central importance to the cutlery industry. To reflect this development, Elsener coined the company’s new name, Victorinox, by combining his mother’s name with “inox,” which is derived from the French word “inoxydable” (stainless). Today, the Swiss Army Knife is offered in more than 100 variations and combinations. Among the more notable developments in this collection are the top models: the Swiss Champ with 33 functions, the SwissFlash USB pocket knife with up to 16GB storage capacity, the pocket knife with the smallest laser pointer in the world and a prize possession in the rescue and security services, the Victorinox Rescue Tool. Victorinox also produces cutlery for use by home cooks or professional chefs and butchers. Ergonomics and ease of handling are the underlying criteria for this range of products — and, of course, the high quality for which Victorinox is known.
Victorinox Swiss Army timepieces The Victorinox brand began to expand with a fusion of the Victorinox watchmaking business and other Victorinox products. The brand Swiss Army was a creation of the American partner of Victorinox in 1989, which successfully launched the first watch collection under this brand name. All Victorinox watches are manufactured in the company’s own facilities in the heart of the Swiss watchmaking region in Canton Jura. Each timepiece has its own style, but all share the characteristics of every Victorinox product: sturdiness, superior technology, inventive design and high quality. Victorinox Swiss Army timepieces are divided into three segments. “Active” watches appeal to dynamic people with a modern, active lifestyle. The “Classic” line fulfills the demand for sporting, luxury-oriented watches. Last but not least, the “Professional” collection melds refined functions with technically excellent movements. To celebrate its jubilee, Victorinox has created the Infantry Vintage Limited Edition watch. This 1940s design is carried out in a rich red and gold dial decoration, with an engraved anniversary seal and inscription on the back. Limited to 125 pieces, it is sure to become a cult object.
Victorinox Fragrances The Victorinox Fragrances evoke the elements of nature and the breathtaking beauty of the Swiss mountains. The art of composing a fragrance lies in creating a unique fragrant touch from a wealth of possibilities. In both of the Victorinox Fragrance families, Victorinox Swiss Unlimited and Swiss Army, the perfume designers at Victorinox have succeeded in expressing this characteristic and refreshing “Swiss feeling.” The fragrance collection is the “baby” of the Victorinox product family. Through the takeover of Wenger in 2003, Victorinox became the owner of a line of fragrances and saw an opportunity. The challenge was to transfer the spirit of the Original Swiss Army Knife into the fragrance world. And, in fact, with their authentic Swiss accents, the fragrances capture the distinctive nature of the Victorinox brand.
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Victorinox Travel Gear Launched in 1999, the Victorinox Travel Gear collections include luggage, business cases, backpacks, leather goods and travel accessories. Each piece is designed to stand up to heavy travel. With models for various activities, lifestyles and tastes, the product range covers a wide spectrum of needs. The 10-year-old Mobilizer NXT Collection remains a world-famous luggage line and still sets the standard in the industry for classic design, durability and multi-functionality.
Victorinox Fashion Victorinox Fashion is targeted to an active generation. The marriage of natural and technical materials ensures comfort and the confidence of always wearing just the right thing in any setting. The fashions include clothing for work and play as well as all kinds of indoor and outdoor activities. The collection was developed for the North American market in 2001 and has established itself as a label with a unique character in just a few years. The apparel appeals to clientele with creativity, functional and technical design, and attention to every detail.
All in the family One hundred twenty-five years later, Victorinox is still in the hands of the Elseners. This family business is now run by the third and fourth generation. What’s next? Victorinox officials vow to continue to surprise and excite us with products in the future, because, they say, “innovation is in the company’s blood.” The world waits in eager anticipation for the fulfillment of this promise.
A legendary “Nose” Alberto Morillas, one of the world’s most prominent perfumers and the legendary “nose” behind some of the world’s most successful perfumes for women and men, is also the man behind the new Omega Aqua Terra fragrance for men. When Omega turned to Alberto Morillas to create a special fragrances, the perfumer was faced with a particular challenge: to represent OMEGA accurately, he needed to create a scent which was elegant and sporty in equal parts and which would convey OMEGA’s values: authenticity, substance and innovation.
It also needed to project the qualities which characterize OMEGA’s customers: courage, self-confidence and independence. More than a hundred of the most exclusive raw materials were blended to create OMEGA Aqua Terra and the result is a long-lasting fragrance with energetic, sophisticated, sensuous aspects.
Alberto Morillas on his unusual job, fragrances, and how to shop for the right scent. Is an outstanding men’s fragrance good for every man ? Every man decides for himself what perfume he wants to wear – it is a question of falling in love. When you wear a perfume, it is about comfort, freedom, sensuality and finding the “perfect fit”. Each person needs to find the fragrance that fits the criteria. Are “noses” born or trained? Could anyone, with the proper education, be a perfumer? I think it is a combination of both – perfumers are born with the special gift of transmitting emotions and sensations through their creations; however, all perfumers train in some way, either through a personal exploration or more formally; this is vital to be able to master the art of blending raw materials. That can range from the most classic naturals to the most innovative olfactive molecules. If you take time off between projects, can you start immediately when you return to work or do you have to “re-tune” your nose? No, you do not need to re-tune your nose! Smelling is like painting or playing an instrument. It is an art – each time you resume the activity you have fresh ideas to SWISS MADE magazine DELUXE
experiment with; in addition, each time you analyze a work of art you perceive it differently. This can depend, for example, on your surroundings or your state of mind. When you work you are in a very special world. What do you do to re-enter the “real world” when your working day is done? Do you “switch on” and “switch off” your nose? As a perfumer, work does not end when you leave the office; you are constantly discovering new smells, both good and bad! While driving home, when you are taking a walk, while cooking a new dish or maybe attending an exhibition. All these experiences can be sources of inspiration that develop into the initial idea for a new creation. Do the scents you create have a “signature”? I think every person has his own style . . . this is the case with painters and fashion designers – each one has a signature. I was very influenced by my youth in Andalusia, the sun and the contrasts of this country. Amongst my favourite scents are fruits, flowers and incense. I like to complete my creations with a blend of musks and woods. I find that in a subtle way, these ingredients are the key to enhancing the contrasting elements of my fragrances such as hot/cold effects or light/dark effects.
For people who are shopping for a new scent, is there such a thing as nose exhaustion? What tips would you give to someone for their fragrance shopping? A relationship with a fragrance needs time to develop; therefore, I would advise people to select a few fragrances and ask for a sample to wear for a few days. Living with a fragrance is the best way to find one that is right for you. Trust your instinct and change fragrance only when you are ready. Finally, in layman’s terms, how would you describe the new OMEGA Aqua Terra fragrance for men? It belongs to the woody aromatic family. On the top, the fragrance opens on a blend of citrus (bergamot-grapefruit-tangerine-petitgrain) and herbs (clary sage). They bring a fresh and natural sensation to this perfume. After a few minutes, the heart of the creation reveals a spicy freshness and an elegant floralcy thanks to the aromatic herbs, jasmine, red pepper and violet leaves. Finally, the drydown unveils its mysterious facets: a trail of sensual and luxurious woods, refined oak moss, patchouli, vetiver and musk rounds the perfume out harmoniously.
Like the watch, the fragrance . . . conveys the essence of the wearerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s personality. Just as there is a subtle complicity between the watch and its owner, there is an understated bond between a man and the fragrance he chooses. . . . is in direct contact with his skin. His watch is the first accessory he puts on in the morning and the last one he takes off at night (if, indeed, he takes it off). He also puts his fragrance on before he leaves the house in the morning and it will be an intimate expression of his personality throughout the day. . . . is made in Switzerland. Although itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not widely known, the fragrance industry has a strong Swiss accent: Geneva is home to two of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s largest players in the fragrance and flavour industry. Accessories 97
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Vincent Berard +41 32 926 16 46 www.vincentberard.ch
Elegance is an attitude