Student Guide to Rome 2010 2017

Saginaw Valley Student Guide to Rome 2010-2017

Saginaw Valley State University 7400 Bay Road University Center, MI 48710 www.Svsu.edu

The Saginaw Valley Student Guide to Rome, 2010-2017 was written by students of Saginaw Valley State University. It was compiled with assistance from Adam Haenlein and Professors James Sullivan and Chris Giroux. Photographs were taken by the participants of the various study abroad trips to Rome led by Dr. James Sullivan.

The Saginaw Valley Student Guide to Rome, 2010-2017 was produced using Herculanum and Book Antiqua fonts.

SVSU is committed to providing work and learning opportunities without regard to age, color, disability, gender identity, genetic information, height, marital status, national origin, race, religion, sex (including pregnancy), sexual orientation, veteran status, weight, or on any other basis protected by state, federal, or other applicable law, and to achieving its objectives in compliance with applicable federal, state and local laws and regulations that prohibit discrimination.

Copyright 2018, The Saginaw Valley Student Guide to Rome, 2010-2017.

All subsequent publishing rights are returned to the writers and photographers.

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Table of Contents I.

Introduction

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II.

First Thoughts

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III.

Italian Classes, Italian Life

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IV.

History, Architecture, & “Place”

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Introduction

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The Basilica of St. Peter / St. Peter’s Square

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The Vatican Museums and Sistine Chapel

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The Colosseum: A Layered Place

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The Ghetto

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The Basilica of St. Clemente: The Layered Place

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The Ara Pacis

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The Roman Forum

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The Imperial Forums

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The Pantheon

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The Basilica of St. Augustine

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The Basilica of Santa Maria del Popolo

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The Baths of Caracalla

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Villa Giulia: The Ancient Etruscan Museum

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Castel Sant’ Angelo

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“Places” Outside of Rome

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Hadrian’s Villa: Form & Function

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Villa d’Este

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Palestrina: A Roman Settlement

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Ostia Antiqua: Ancient Roman Port

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Amalfi Coast and Salerno

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Tarquinia

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V.

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VI.

Bernini & The Borghese Gallery

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VII.

Art & Literature, Ekphrasis & Resonance

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VIII. Final Thoughts

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I.

INtroduction

Welcome to the inaugural edition of the Saginaw Valley Student Guide to Rome. Written by a group of the university’s most accomplished—and daring— students, the guide presents their impressions, recollections, and analyses of three-week expeditions in and about the “eternal city.” Ranging from university level freshman (“newbies”) to graduating seniors, with an occasional post-baccalaureate student, our excursions enrolled some four-dozen students over spring semesters of 2010-2012 and 2017.

A few words of introduction. Prior to their departure each spring, the students explored in full and half-day seminars the classic literature of ancient Rome; once in the city, they took classes in Italian language, Mediterranean cooking and wine tasting, and then spent the majority of their time visiting sites related to the works they had studied during the Winter semester in Saginaw.

The combined reading and site-visits presented students the opportunity to experience, from “boots on the ground” perspective, the relation between literary works and the social context from which they emerged. Ancient Roman writing, of long pedigree and lasting impression, covers a vast spectrum—from rough-hewn dramatic scripts to highly polished verse, from delicate stories to scalding diatribes. Most, if not all, were to influence future works of Western literature as well as inspire a range of plastic arts, including painting and sculpture and even architecture. The focus of our readings was the place of their creation: all were composed for a Roman audience, the vast majority being inscribed in the city itself. Thus, each reading was tied to a site—a “place”—that we would visit during our outings in and about the city.

Specifically, in on-campus seminars the students were invited to expand their literary expertise by “interrogating” the aesthetic aspects of these Latin classics: the emotion they evoke in us as we read—or watch—the narrative unfold; the way the words strike our ear, their lingual quality; the images they excite that cause such delight; and so on. Next, they were asked to explore, through site visits and sociologically grounded reading, the “place” of their origin. In this, they were encouraged to treat the sites we visited not merely as “physical” places (which they were) but, more importantly, as socio-cultural “spaces.” Finally, students were

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challenged to examine select art works and archeological sites of later generations as “spaces” inspired by a close reading of these texts.

As they read Roman literature and visited Roman sites, our Saginaw Valley scholars were then in a position to ponder, and ponder often, the relation between texts and sites. For example, what did the reading of Lucretius’ The Nature of Things add to our visit to Emperor Hadrian’s Villa in Tivoli?

How did the statuary in the Vatican Collection enhance our grasp of Virgil’s Aeneid? Or the Borghese Gallery, Ovid’s Metamorphoses? In short, what “insights” can be derived from “sites”? This was one of the principles that guided the students’ comments that you are about to encounter in the pages to follow.

Because students responded to a single site or text in diverse ways, these Guide entries— if read continuously—can no doubt appear repetitious. However, the text is intended to be perused, almost at leisure, and to that end our students’ reflections have been grouped under eight topics with an array of sub-divisions, each based upon the students’ own acuity. This organization allows readers to wander, to “thumb through” the Guide, savoring the diversity of its many nuanced comments.

As you will quickly discover our SVSU “seminarians” have inscribed a wide range of responses, not only those hinted at above, but also an array of shrewd insights, perceptive observations, and rather lively—if outright exuberant!—entries grounded in their personal encounter with “Classic Literature, Alive!”

Some entries are but a line; others cover a page or two, but a majority consists of a brief but poignant paragraph. The final sections (VI through VII) contain more extensive discussions. These deal with the interrelations between art, literature and the benefit of on-site experience—or what one of our students referred to as the “3-D feel.” Those interested in the more academic fruits of the excursion may prefer to engage these sections more directly; in a sense they are where “the rubber hits the road.”

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Finally, I would like to extend my gratitude to my co-leaders over the years: Janna Kern, Adam Haenlein and Dr. Christopher Giroux.

Without the editorial dexterity of my latter two colleagues, this Guide would probably still be in the “preparation” stage. And without the literary acumen of Dr. Giroux, who labored tirelessly over task-filled weeks and months, it would have been far less representative of our students’ abilities. To both of them, my sincere thanks. I would also like to thank Dr. Brian Thomas and Aileen Ash of the Office of International Programs for their assistance, the faculty and staff at Italiaidea: Institute for Italian Language and Culture, and last but hardly least, the financial support offered each of our participants by the SVSU Foundation.

Now feel free to wander through the SVSU Guide to Rome, and let our students introduce the enduring literature and art of the eternal city. Speriamo che lo godiate, ed ora Andiamo! (Or, “We hope you enjoy it, and now ‘We're off!”)

James P. Sullivan, Ph.D. Professor of English Language and Literature

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II. First Thoughts Keep your culture, but open your eyes! (Sophia Modes)

Literature and insight In On the Nature of Things, Lucretius states that “life is granted to no one for personal ownership, to all on lease.”

Since I read this before visiting Italy, this statement became my mentality whenever I experienced or saw something new. The length of my life is not permanent, and I am unsure of when it will end; therefore, I decided to take this opportunity and make the best of it no matter what happened. This helped me keep an open mind, take in vast quantities of knowledge, and appreciate Rome to the fullest. Rome is a beautiful place, and I am very grateful I got to learn about the history of Rome while realizing that this was an opportunity of a lifetime.

(Kelli Norrington)

Before embarking on a trip to study ancient Roman life, one should read and understand literature written in ancient Rome. While this can be challenging and time consuming, it helps to truly understand the history and put it together while studying in the city. Rome may be another big city, but it has a special charm. It has its own history, art, literature and personality. Everything about Rome is special to me: the people, food, culture, history, architecture, etc. Even if I could be here for six months, it wouldn’t be enough— there is more to see and experience in Rome and in Italy than I could ever have time for.

(Whitney Gilbert)

Arrival Today was my first day in Rome. It started with a nine-hour plane ride where I got no sleep at all.

After going through customs and immigration, we all loaded up into two vans. The ride in this van caused so much more anxiety, more so than the plane did. (Vincent Flores)

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When I first arrived in Rome, I was in complete and utter awe. I had seen pictures, read books, and watched travel television shows about Rome, but nothing could have prepared me for the moment when I actually walked along those cobblestone streets and became immersed in the incredible history, culture, and sights that make up the city.

(Bethany Koch)

We arrived at the airport, which was very beautiful and well-kept. (It looked very similar to those in America). Many signs had English translations, making it easy to navigate the airport. The money exchange was very simple, but on our way to the apartment we quickly realized that driving in Italy was crazy … to say the least. Many cars were smart cars, and many people traveled by moped. When we got to our apartment, we realized that many people walked as their main source of transportation. Many of the roads are made of cobblestone, making them very hard to walk on, and most of the streets were very narrow and not at all straight. If you’re not paying attention, it would be very easy to get hit by a car. (Hunter Steward)

Today we arrived in Rome, and we went grocery shopping; that was an interesting experience. The cashier yelled at us for not weighing our fruit… at least now I know how to get fruit in the supermarket. (Erica Seamon)

The langauge game We had our first survival Italian language class today. Irene was our teacher, and she hardly speaks any English at all, so that was interesting. We used a lot of gestures and learned to follow her Italian. It was cool though; I realized that I could understand a lot more than I thought I could. We walked through Trastevere for a while, looking for the Blue Ice gelato shop. After a few wrong turns, we made it. The girl working there laughed at our trying to speak Italian, but she helped us order. (Kara Booms)

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Embrace the new culture! Appreciate every aspect of Rome along with every other cultural trait that makes Italy so different from the American world we are used to.

Immersing yourself in the culture of another country will change your perspective, your opinions, and your life. (Maria Vos)

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III. Italian CLASSES, Italian Life New sensibilities Traveling anywhere is always an experience.

New sights, sounds, people, foods, customs and traditions all make the prospect of traveling to another country very appealing.

When traveling abroad it is always a good idea to learn as much as possible of the native people. When traveling to Rome, this concept is all the more pressing. Romans are a very unique and special people. (Luke Gembrowski)

There is something fascinating about the way Europeans dress. They are modest. We are constantly watched because we dress different and look different. Our tutor laughed at us today because he said that we are beautiful, exotic, young Americans and we draw more attention and looks than we realize. I kept my eyes out later and did notice that he spoke true. It’s just fascinating to observe now that we know what is typical and expected, and we find that it is easy to pick out the tourists ourselves. Quite fascinating. (Kaitlyn Cubalo)

Cooking class We went to cooking class tonight, and it was so fun! Andrea, our instructor, was funny and nice and we all had a rewarding time making the food and then eating what we had prepared. We did a wonderful job. Kara and I made the tiramisu, which means “pick me up,” and then helped roll the pasta noodles. The others made pasta sauce and beef, all of which was delicious! Andrea is sending us the recipes, so that we might make them again some time back in the States.

I’m sure they would not taste as good, but I dare say I would be willing to try!

It was so cool to eat food that we knew we had actually prepared, and I think we all agreed that it was the best we have eaten, and probably will eat our whole trip. It was quite an experience.

(Kaitlyn Cubalo)

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Noi parliamo Italiano I truly enjoyed the Italian class, and I think the methods that our teacher, Andrea, used were very effective. I feel that what we learned was very helpful and it helped me feel more confident when I was shopping in the market. (Megan Dombek)

It was really cool to be able to understand basic Italian.

I especially enjoyed being able to take it to the marketplace. I like that we are learning things that are relevant to our stay and not wasting time. (Alexandra Steele)

Today, our language class involved using our speaking skills at Campo di Fiori with the vendors. We had to ask them for directions to a statue that was nearby. The vendors were able to understand our question, but they replied to us in English … I am not sure why they didn’t have confidence in our Italian! (I definitely know what they didn’t, LOL.) We were able to find the statue using their directions without a problem. (Hunter Steward)

Just walking I think my favorite part of the city is just walking around outside, enjoying the warm weather, and admiring the beautiful views. (Erica Seamon)

This afternoon I was able to just walk around the city and take in all the beautiful art and sights. On my walk, I focused on the interactions between the native Italians/Romans and thought about the ways their culture differs from ours. I came to many conclusions throughout the day: • • • •

Many of the natives only hang out with a few friends at a time, as I have never seen a group bigger than four.

They only drink small amounts of alcohol (wine), and you really never see any drunk people.

They have small spaces between them when they stand, as they are very touchy as well.

Many of them speak English as their second language.

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•

They don’t seem to have much patience when it comes to waiting in lines. (Hunter Steward)

Wine-tasting: Sip-up!

The wine-tasting class was taught by a very nice Russian woman. We tested four different wines, two red and two white. We learned how to properly open a wine bottle, hold a wine glass, drink from the wine glass, differentiate between the ages of the wines, check how many tiers the wines made, and how to taste for all the different hidden flavors within the wine that make up its overall taste.

Through this experience, I was able to gain an entirely new respect for wine and all that goes into making a good wine. One of the many things I found very interesting was the fact that you can tip the wine glass, which caused a thin layer of wine to move forward on the glass. At the tip of the wine is the true color of the wine you are drinking. This color can be used to determine taste as well as age. A red wine whose “nail” has a lot of orange in it shows that it is very aged. In the end, I found that I was a bigger fan of red wine than white. (Hunter Steward)

Wine tasting was interesting to say the least. I am not a fan of wine in any form apparently. I learned a lot, but mostly there are so many different things that go into making wine. One of the most disturbing tastes/scents was horse sweat. I’m just glad we didn’t have to taste that. (Kelsey Setla)

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IV. History, Architecture, & “Place” Introduction Though much of the ancient structures from ancient Rome are gone, Romans have put countless hours into helping tourists and anyone who is interested visualize what Rome was and what it still is today.

When traveling around the city of Rome, attempting to navigate the winding and confusing streets, there is a prevailing sense there is more around you than you can see. (Luke Gembrowski)

Aeneas Walk On our “Aeneas Walk,” we realized that in terms of place, it has no meaning until someone gives it one; it is just a place until someone applies significance to it.

What, in Roman time, was known to have meaning can be more easily interpreted now with these buildings.

(Sara Woodrow & Shane McClure)

When on our “Aeneas Walk,” it was difficult to envision at times what it would really have been like back then given all the modern cars and buildings. Our walk led us through a church with an altar that was originally dedicated to Hercules. As we continued our walk though, we ended up at the Roman Forum. The view from the top of the hill that overlooked the Forum was absolutely stunning. It was here that this walk gave meaning to Virgil’s words; you could almost envision Aeneas walking next to you in one of most historically powerful cities of the world.

Today, on this walk through the city, I truly felt that I had grasped the concept of “place” in literature. It had never occurred to me that stories made/created about different things within a society are created and cherished because stories give inanimate objects meaning. Without establishing relevance in the form of a story, many things in a culture will be overlooked. It really occurred to me when we were looking at the island in the middle of the Tiber that held the hospital. The story was that the island was created by Hercules when he threw a large boulder into the river. All in all, I think establishing place in literature is crucial in allowing a reader to feel a connection. (Hunter Steward) 14

The Basilica of St. Peter / St. Peter’s Square At the Papal Audience, our seats were amazing. I sat next to a really cute baby, but her family only spoke German and I only speak English, I wasn’t able to communicate with her. Still, when the pope kissed that baby, it was heartwarming to see her grandmother’s reaction. (Sophia Modes)

Today was such an amazing experience. We were literally ten feet from one of the most influential men in the world—the Pope. It was so overwhelming to see the number of people who came to see him that day. (Kelsey Setla)

Vaticano origins Religion is just as much a part of Rome’s rich history as their epic conquests or awe-inspiring architecture. And while the main religion in Rome has changed, it is perhaps this transformation and preservation of the different eras that make it so fascinating. (Travis Falkner)

In the early fourth century, after hearing word of the burial place of St. Peter, Emperor Constantine, a Christian architect of the time, began excavation to create a basilica over the relics of St. Peter. While originally a cemetery to martyrs, Constantine transformed it into a church dedicated to St. Peter. However, the construction of the basilica demolished most of the cemetery, leaving only the wall that marked Peter’s tomb. An engraving there reads “Petros eni,” which, in Greek, translates to “Peter is here.”

After about thirty years of construction, the basilica was completed, composed of marble, gold, silver, and jewels. The basilica constructed in the shape of a cross, a fundamental symbol of the Christian belief system. After many years, the basilica began to deteriorate; in the early sixteenth century, this basilica was torn down and replaced with the one that can be seen today.

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I’ve seen cities before but never any with as much beauty and history as Rome. The Piazza de San Pietro really helped me tie in the stories, readings, etc. I heard and was taught at my Catholic grade school. (Sophia Modes)

I found it interesting to learn that the dome of St. Peter is said to represent head of the “Mother Church,” the building represents the body of the “Mother Church,” and her arms are the colonnade forming the square. (Sara Woodrow)

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Inside St. Peter’s When entering the basilica, awe is one of the first feelings I felt due to the magnitude of the building’s space. One feels insignificant compared to the vastness and beauty of the structure. Able to host 20,000 people, it is 623 feet long and 1499 feet high, but when you include the dome, it is another 446 feet high. (Savannah Boak)

I followed some people inside the Basilica of St. Peter. I was totally stunned to discover that I had made it into the rarely viewed Vatican Grottos. And there, my greatest goal and dream was fulfilled—I saw the tomb of Peter. I stood right in front of it separated by only a door and maybe 10 feet. What an incredible moment! I will never forget it. (Anthony Flores)

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The Vatican Museums and Sistine Chapel Every aspect of the trip was amazing and unforgettable, but the most memorable for me will be the Sistine Chapel. The Sistine Chapel is home to some of the most famous and most beautiful pieces of artwork ever created. Although the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel is astonishing, the Final Judgment is as well.

It was beautiful. I think more than anything it was the personal message and satisfaction that I had while being in this beautiful, religious, preserved, sacred place. This place allows you to take a step back from the normal, crazy bustle of everyday life and just appreciate something truly magical. Despite the short time we had in the Sistine Chapel, I enjoyed every minute of it, even the hour-long lecture from our guide Paolo before entering the chapel. I became very passionate about this place and the images of Michelangelo’s masterpieces will forever be in my mind. Everything was so well preserved, and I do believe that anyone who has the chance to travel to Rome should jump at the opportunity to visit the Sistine Chapel. Not only does it provide something special for religious people, but it is also a revolutionary place in the world of fine art. It is beautiful, historic and very humbling.

One of the main things I wanted to see while in Rome was the Sistine Chapel, and I am happy to say I can finally cross it off my bucket list. (Lauren Stuart)

My favorite part of the Vatican Museum was the Sistine Chapel. I was almost in tears when we were inside viewing it. The silence and lack of phones/cameras made it possible to take in all the beauty contained within its walls. I wish I could put into words how I felt when walking around the chapel and gazing at the incredible detail used in each and every painting. I hope I can go back to Rome and experience the Sistine Chapel again and feel the same way. (Sophia Modes)

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Raphael & Michelangelo Today was eye-opening for me. Never in my life have I seen so much art in one place. Each room we walked through was full of art that different popes had requested be made for them: sculpture, paintings, mosaics, and tapestries. I found all of it to be mesmerizing, but nothing evoked more emotion in me than the paintings of Raphael and Michelangelo.

When we walked through the first three chambers painted by Raphael, I immediately fell in love. He used many bright colors that evoked happier times while composing some of the most brilliant paintings the world has ever seen. A room that caught my eye was the one filled with “The School of Athens.” This was a chamber commissioned by the pope that showed the school of Athens for philosophy on one wall, theology on another wall, with the middle walls depicting art and justice (law). At this time, I am not sure why Pope Julius II had commissioned a painting that incorporated Greek philosophy. However, what I do know is that the painting shows, at the same time, a separation of the two schools of thought (religion and philosophy) as well as their unity under one common roof.

I feel as though the place of philosophy was often a political one, and more research will have to be done to ensure that I am drawing the correct conclusions.

When we walked into the chambers that Michelangelo had painted, we saw the output of another brilliant artist.

However, his works do differ from Raphael’s style.

Michelangelo’s pieces were often constructed with darker colors, giving the pieces a grimmer feel to them. Despite this, both artists are phenomenal in the messages they are trying to convey.

As we began our walk to the Sistine Chapel, we passed an entire art gallery and didn’t stop to really look. However, I saw two original paintings by my favorite artist: Salvador Dali. I was shocked by the fact that the tourists had to remain quiet also gave the room a deeper feeling in terms of emotion it evoked. Though our time in the chapel was short, it had a major effect on my 19

outlook on art. Lastly, we visited St. Peter’s Basilica. The church was jaw-dropping in every aspect. The size was immense as well as the artwork it held. It was in this room that you could truly feel the power of the Catholic Church. (Hunter Steward)

The Colosseum: A layered place

We toured a basilica near the Colosseum that held four levels of history ‌ a great example of how Rome was built layer by layer on top of itself. One can actually visit each layer, traveling further back in time while descending below ground. (Greg McNish)

One of the first things I encountered when arriving in Rome was the idea of layers. When Americans think of layers, we think of layers of clothing, maybe layers of paint, or layers in cakes and other foods. In Italy, especially in Rome, layers apply to something very different: they can play a role in architecture, history, literature, and even in religion. Rome is called a vertical city because it was built up and over older parts throughout the years. As time periods change and as we descend beneath levels, we travel further back in time. One edifice, which displays the notion of layers, is the Colosseum. It was designed with five layers that go 20

both vertically and horizontally. Each layer does go up and provides a seat for a person to sit. These layers depended on social class. The higher the class, the lower the person sat, and the closer to the front: the lower the social class, the higher and farther away the person would be required to sit. In this case, layers marked Romans’ social status. (Marsha Weiss) The Colosseum reminds us that the Romans created cement. The cement was poured over a mold of wood to give the Colosseum its shape.

Stone would have been too heavy to use.

At the Colosseum, we also learned that it wasn’t just man vs. man, but often animal vs. animal, and gladiators were often well taken care of.

They couldn’t make money as a fighter if they were sick or hurt. Injuries or deaths were paid for, and only the emperor could ask for an all-out battle to the death. Many gladiators were slaves or prisoners of war (killing was okay then), but some gladiators were free people giving it a try. (Vincent Flores)

The artificial pond of Nero was in what is now the Colosseo. Nero stole the land from the Roman people, and the Colosseum was built for reasons related to political propaganda. Designated a gift to the Roman people, its inauguration lasted for three months in 80 AD. Colosseum is a medieval name, not Roman. The New Amphitheater was the real name for it by Romans. (Justin Herby)

The Ghetto Our guide Paolo took us for a tour throughout Roma and showed us around the Ghetto and important camps and plazas. The fact that the Ghetto contained bars to prevent the entrance of traffic thoroughly interested me. This was important to prevent anti-Semitic attacks via vehicles. (Justin Herby)

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The Basilica of St. Clemente: The layered place St. Clemente was my favorite part of the trip so far. It was amazing to travel through the different layers of the church and travel through time as well. Every part of the basilica’s history amazed me. (Savannah Boak)

Perhaps the best example of layers is the church of St. Clemente. This church has about five archeological layers. The bottom-most ones incorporate a house built in the first century, later a mint, then a school for the religious congregation and a Mithridatic shrine for initiation into the rites of that cult. Continuing upward, we encounter a fifth-century Christian church, above it an eleventh-century rebuilding of the church followed by a sixteenth-century reconstruction featuring Byzantine style, with columns and marble unchanged from earlier architectural structures—all these in a single space but located at different archeological levels. Rome is called the eternal city. It could even be said that the reason for this is the ability for Rome to adapt and change so much over the years, yet still be able to survive. It had done this by building itself up over time. But underneath the exterior, which we see and experience on any average trip, are layers of information, of customs, values, and beliefs waiting to someday be experienced by all.

(Marsha Weiss)

Peace & propaganda

The Ara Pacis The Ara Pacis contains imagery of prosperity and shows the family line of Augustus, as well as his senators and politicians. On two sides, two gods, Mars and Venus, are present.

On the back, the goddess Roma can be found. She symbolizes peace; for Romans, peace was characterized by the lack of civil war. (Justin Herby)

The Ara Pacis also reminds us that Augustus was a master of propaganda. This sacrificial altar that was dedicated to the goddess of peace was used to remind Rome that Augustus

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achieved peace. The shadow of the sundial that was nearby landed in this building at noon on September 23rd—Augustus’ birthday. (Kelsey Setla)

The sundial found near the Ara Pacis reminded people that Augustus conquered Egypt, and that by fixing the calendar and adding a leap year, he was controlling time, that he was the Lord of Time. (Jennifer Gentner)

The Roman Forum The Ancient Roman Forum is one of the most jaw-dropping sites to see in Rome. Just looking at the ruins takes you back in time and shows you what it was like living at the time of Rome’s greatest rulers like Augustus and Caesar. (Laura Piacentini)

Augustus’s house is more defined and still somewhat intact. One can enter his home, and still see some of the rooms. It is mesmerizing to enter a home used so long ago. You can still see the frescos used to decorate his walls when you enter, and you can imagine the way such a person of dignity would have lived at that time.

(Whitney Gilbert)

The Roman Forum was the center square, the center of the power of Rome. A basilica was used a courthouse and stock exchanges, for business and trials. It was not for religious purposes. (Shane McClure)

Interesting things I learned at the Roman Forum: It is said that a comet appeared the night after Caesar died; this was considered proof he became a god. Also, the Temple of Vesta was rounded and thus very different from the other temples. This temple, where Vestal virgins kept a flame constantly burning, symbolized home, warmth, and protection. (Kelsey Setla)

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The Imperial Forums The Imperial Forums are excellent examples of the universal need of the Roman rulers to be remembered and celebrated. Five squares are present in the complex of the Imperial Forums. Each of these squares is named after a significant ruler that held a lot of power within Roman society. These squares are the Square of Caesar, the Square of Augustus, the Square of Domitian, the Square of Vespasian, and the Trajan Square. Each of these squares is unique and attempts to be better than the one before it. The Square of Caesar was dedicated to Caesar as a god and brought the idea of uniformity in architecture to Rome. The Square of Vespasian was almost triple the size of Caesar’s and included a large temple that housed the official map of Rome as it looked at that time in history. The Square of Domitian was really a large street with a small temple, but it was considered better than the Square of Vespasian because it followed the three main principles of Roman architecture: solidity, usability, and comfortability. The Square of Augustus was the most impressive in size and included the most statues and temples, which exemplified his extreme stronghold on power in the Roman Empire. Augustus essentially believed he was Rome. Lastly, the Square of Trajan was the only one that did not include any temples. Nevertheless, it was grand in the fact that it was the location of the courthouse, two public libraries, and a large market. (Kelsey Setla)

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The Pantheon The Pantheon is probably my favorite thing about the trip and the most impressive thing I’ve seen in Rome altogether. It’s amazing how complete and intact the building has remained over the centuries while everything else, even the great Colosseum, continues to crumble. (Adam Haenlein)

While originally intended as a temple dedicated to all the gods, the Pantheon now serves as a Catholic church. In 609 AD, the Pantheon was dedicated as the church of Santa Maria Rotonda, or Santa Maria and Martyres. This transformation helped preserve the Pantheon and is a reason as to why it is in such good condition when you consider the structure’s age.

The inside of the Pantheon does not resemble most Catholic churches; the high altar and crucifix provide the similarities to other churches and make it a functional church. When mass is celebrated at the Pantheon, the tourists are ushered out so that the mass can be held in private and be distraction free for those in attendance. By participating in mass at the Pantheon, as I did, one is truly able to see the transformation of pagan Rome to Christian Rome. (Savannah Boak)

The Basilica of St. Augustine It was beautiful inside the Basilica of St. Augustine, where his mother St. Monica is buried, and while there, I prayed for a bit. I felt so at piece that I could have stayed all day. (Erica Seamon)

The Basilica of Santa Maria del Popolo Within the Basilica of Maria Popolo, two original Caravaggios are placed on a side altar and feature Peter and Paul. (The works of such important artists seem to be side attractions in basilicas.) The most striking artifacts in the church were found in a side chapel that contained the most elegant and stunning colored marble. The bronze rendition of Jesus nailed to the cross was unique. The work reminds me of the crown of thorns, and the three major thorns represent the trinity. (Justin Herby) 25

The Baths of Caracalla Reading about the Baths of Caracalla truly does not do them justice, as their enormous size and incredible beauty cannot be compared to anything in America—it must be experienced firsthand.

(Whitney Gilbert)

The complex that is the Baths of Caracalla holds some of the most exquisite decorations that exist in the entire city of Rome. These baths contained saunas, massage rooms, a gym, a large swimming pool, changing areas, a library, and a huge central courtyard, all of which were all highly decorated. The floors of the gymnasium and the changing rooms were covered in intricate mosaics tile designs that portrayed scenes from around the world. Some of the tile floors were simply patterned; however, the style was not important. It is the materials that were used to create the tiles that made them so valuable. Many times, emperors used red tiles shipped from Egypt because they were extremely expensive and hard to find. (Kelsey Setla)

Villa Giulia: The ancient Etruscan Museum The gardens in the center of the Villa were beautiful. The museum showed a simulation of how the Villa once looked. Though we were still in the middle of Roma, this Villa was quiet and peaceful, almost allowing you to feel as if you were in the countryside. (Hunter Steward)

Castel Sant’ Angelo Why is it called Castel Sant’Angelo? In the sixth century, people were dying of the plague. A procession was organized going from St. Peter’s Basilica to St. Mary’s; on the way, the pope saw, on the top of Hadrian’s Mausoleum, the archangel Michael. The next day, the plague was over. Romans then began calling the mausoleum “Castle of the Archangel Michael,” or Castel Sant’Angelo. (Sara Woodrow)

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We woke up early to go to Castel Sant’Angelo, which was amazing! I love castles, and this was the first one I’d been in… it was a fantastic way to spend our last day. When we were sitting there in the café at the top, drinking our cappuccino, I just felt like I was the luckiest person ever. (Laura Piacentini)

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V. “Places” OUTSIDE OF ROME Hadrian’s Villa: Form & Function Though churches and temples contain a wealth of symbols, for the emperors of the Roman Empire, other places and locations had symbols of great importance. They often constructed great palaces to reside in; these residences, known as villas, were more like miniature cities than anything else. In fact, they were symbols of power, strength, and values. Hadrian’s Villa is a case in point. In the past, the Roman Senate often killed off emperors if they disliked them, and as Hadrian grew older, he also grew more paranoid about this possibility. A representation of this paranoia can be seen in his private study. It was constructed inside the Villa on a small island surrounded by a moat that could only be crossed by a bridge that Hadrian could remove whenever he wanted. This symbol of isolation is unique in a culture that does not even have a word for privacy. Also, the Villa’s outdoor banquet hall is a symbol in itself. Statues that surround its reflecting pool were styled not only after Roman ideals, but also from the styles of Greece and Egypt. Their diversity reflects Hadrian’s interest in, and tolerance of, other societies, while their formal unity reflects Hadrian’s philosophy of maintaining peace in Rome by accepting the ways of all the varied people in the city’s vast empire. A lesson well learned. (Kate Nankervis)

Bathhouse As you continue through the massive villa, many structures clearly outline the attempt to intertwine architecture with nature. One of these structures was a bathhouse that was constructed with an oculus in the apex of the large domed ceiling. The design mimicked the Pantheon, a temple located in Rome dedicated to all the gods, which was rebuilt by Hadrian in Rome after it burned to the ground. In the Pantheon, the oculus served as a passage for all gods to converge through a single hole and united as one under a single roof. In the case of the oculus in the bathhouse, it served as a means to release steam from the room, but more importantly, it allowed for an individual to become one with the universe, while standing in the presence of all the gods. The bathhouse also reminds us of Romans’ obsession with bathing and cleanliness, as being clean correlated with a decrease in disease prevalence. Thus, bathhouses were spread throughout the villa and were used by everyone. However, Hadrian had a specific procedure to his bathing regimen, as he utilized a large bathhouse that contained three bathing rooms with varying water temperatures. The first of the rooms was a frigidarium where he drew his first bath. The cold water was believed to close the pores of the skins to prevent infection 28

and disease. He would then enter the lukewarm bath, where he was able to comfortably clean himself before stepping into the last of the baths. Lastly, he utilized a thermal room, similar to a modern-day steam room, that was used to cleanse the pores and fuse both body and spiritual care together. The bathing process was used as much for cleanliness as it was to become one, body and soul. After bathing, Hadrian would be at peace, enabling him to meditate properly and engage in deep philosophical thought. (Hunter Steward)

Maritime Theatre Once bathed, Hadrian could venture off to his most sacred spot within the villa, the Maritime Theatre.

The theatre was a private area that freed him from any distractions that could interrupt him during his deep thought. This was the area where he could feel as though he was one with nature, and one with his soul, allowing for proper meditation. The theatre was constructed in a circular shape, as the circle, according to ancient philosophers, was the perfect form. He utilized this shape in his most sacred designs, such as the Pantheon. Stepping into the theatre exposed one to an outer colonnade that surrounded a moat, separating a person from the center island. The only way to access the island structure was by two retractable wooden bridges. The island held an array of rooms and amenities, including heated baths, toilets, a library, an art gallery, a lounge, suites, and a fountain. The center island could be considered Hadrian’s private villa within the larger villa. The décor of the theatre was vibrant, decorated with rare marble and art that was fitting for a man with the power of an emperor. However, for Hadrian, it was more than just rich décor; it was about the symbolism that the design of the theatre portrayed. By including a moat that surrounded his place of peace and serenity, he was allowing himself to yet again become one with nature. He used water to his advantage as it enlightened his mind, bringing tranquility through the fluid motion that it possesses. Thus, the aura that the room exuded was suitable for meditation and relaxation for arguably the most powerful man on the planet. (Hunter Stewart)

In the middle of the grounds of Hadrian’s Villa, behind walls, is an island, surrounded by a moat, where Hadrian liked to think and be alone. This space was like a warm, pulsating heart. The elegant design was superb for making this place private. Our guide Paolo really hit home the idea of place while describing Hadrian’s Villa. It’s important to bring both the mind and body into the same environment to immerse oneself and understand the places where the Romans were 2,000 years ago. (Justin Herby) 29

Villa d’Este Villa d’Este is located in Tivoli. It could have been inspired by Villa d’Hadriana. Bernini helped expand the d’Este in the twelfth century. He planned and designed some of the fountains for the Cardinal of Tivoli, who wanted to be pope in the sixteenth century. The fountains were extravagant, and the design and effort to create these water systems was amazing. I could walk around here for hours and feel at peace with the hilltop view and sound of running water. This is one of my favorite locations in the area surrounding Rome. (Justin Herby)

This place had the most beautiful gardens and architecture I have ever seen. The fountains were so large and powerful, and the gardens were magnificent. It was like a fairy tale to be there, and it was by far my favorite place on this trip. (Jennifer Gentner)

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Palestrina: A Roman Settlement The private tour of the temple of Fortuna atop of the town was such an amazing experience. Some of mosaics that we viewed were incredible. It is crazy to think that all those tiles could be placed so quickly and make such beautiful works of art.

The goddess Fortuna was represented in a shrine, and her idol (adola) was important. She is said to have worn a black dress and had dark hair, dark skin, and dark eyes; she symbolized the stars and the night sky. Fortuna eventually became more like the Virgin Mary, that is she became more Westernized. (Kelsey Setla)

Today I fell in love with a city in a way I’ve never experienced. The authenticity, beauty, and history make it one of a kind. I felt a sort of nostalgia as we walked through the town.

Another part of the trip to Palestrina I enjoyed was when Paolo compared me to Isis (as strange as that may seem). I was very flattered and found the transformation of Isis to Ishta to Mary was incredible. The relation of many stories/figures across time, religions, myths, and cultures always amazes me. (Sophia Modes)

We began our visit by touring the square and various rooms on the ground level. Then after lunch, we walked up many staircases to reach the top of Fortuna’s Temple. The views from the top were absolutely breathtaking. I have never seen anything like it before. Within the museum, the artifacts, paintings, and architecture were astounding, and it’s hard to believe they were able create such pieces in those times. Our guide, Paolo, said that the building was religiously and culturally significant. For example, the hike up to the Temple symbolized the journey to enlightenment. (Jennifer Gentner)

Ostia Antiqua: Ancient Roman Port Ostia was the port city for Rome as it was near the mouth of the Tiber. Salt pans and quarries were found here and remind us of salt’s importance for food and manufacturing.

In modern day terms, salt would be like oil in terms of its power in trading. (Justin Herby)

Interesting facts we learned while visiting Ostia: Ostia, another perfectly preserved city, similar to Pompeii, was an important economic hub of the area. Here, we also learned that the word temple comes from a verb that means to cut; this refers to the curved stick they used to outline the area of a temple. Also, burials in Ostia took place outside the city.

The closer the tomb was to the city, the more important the person who died. (Kelsey Setla & Whitney Smith) 31

Amalfi Coast and Salerno Today we made the ferry trip to Amalfi. The town is so beautiful, the ocean is bluer than any I’ve seen, and the colorful houses on the cliffs are out of a dream. I’m so happy to have had the chance to come to Italy. It has been the experience of a lifetime.

We had, however, an “English breakfast” this morning. It was literally a fried egg, toast, and a hot dog. What was I thinking? (Kelsey Setla)

The Bus Ride Today we woke up at 9 am in Salerno to catch our bus to Amalfi. Getting on this bus, I was unaware that I would be on a ride just as frightening as any roller coaster I have ever boarded! The roads to Amalfi were very narrow and wound around the many mountains on the coast. At the rate the bus driver was going, I was sure he would make a mistake and drive us off the edge of a cliff! Luckily, he was very good at his job as we made it to our destination without incident. However, he did have several “head-on accident close calls” as many of the turns were blind! I truly hope the bus drivers are paid well because that is a job I could never do!

Despite the adrenaline rush, the views on the ride were absolutely amazing. There were large, colorful cities built into the side of the mountains. The structures mixed with the beautiful blue water and green vegetation on the mountains made for a perfect scene.

(Hunter Steward)

Inside Amalfi When we arrived in Amalfi, we were able to have lunch on the water. Within our view was the city, water, and a cruise ship just off the shore. This peaceful meal was exactly what I need after two busy weeks in Roma. One thing I really enjoyed was the lack of sirens twenty-four hours a day. The rest of day was full of gelato and long naps on the beach under the beach umbrella we had rented. As we watched the sunset, we all realized how lucky we were to be spending our weekend in Amalfi, let alone our opportunity to study abroad in Italy. This reflection was needed to fuel my motivation to stay on my feet and enjoy as much as I could while I was there. My friends and I had many philosophical debates on the beach based in part on the many things we have seen on this trip. I felt that this experience had opened my eyes to things I had not thought before.

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In Salerno, we had a difficult time communicating with the locals. We found that most people did not speak English. With this barrier though, I feel I as able to immerse myself even more into Italy’s culture. (Hunter Steward)

Tarquinia In Tarquinia we walked up a hill towards the edge of a cliff where I saw the most beautiful country landscape I’d ever seen. You could see rolling hills colored bright green for miles and miles. Small roads gently cut through the scenery with very few cars on them. A flock of sheep looked like tiny white dots slowly crawling along the side of a hill.

In the distance, mountains in shades of blue and violet served as a barrier between the green fields and the bright blue sky. A few fluffy white clouds floated gently above us. A calm warm breeze could be seen moving across the fields and then quickly racing up the wall before us, bringing fresh air into our faces. If someone told me that we looked upon heaven from that outlook, I might be inclined to agree. It was absolutely stunning. (Travis Falkner)

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VI. Bernini & The Borghese Gallery The eternal city of Rome is a masterpiece created by many artists. Works are so different because artists’ views are so different. They create what they believe, what is most meaningful to them, and how they perceive our world. Art is not meant to be perfection: perfection is non-existent. Even great storytellers can miss a few details and even offend others. Art is meant to move the senses and create thought among its viewers. Artists who can push the limits of insight create the most powerful art.

One of the most powerful artists in Rome, Gian Lorenzo Bernini, sculpted a masterpiece, Apollo and Daphne, which can be viewed in the Borghese Gallery. (Valerie Bourbina, Allison Deighton, Juliann Kasza)

The Borghese Villa Borghese is another important building that used architecture to promote a sense of power over the general public of Rome.

Although the palace was not that of a ruler, it was named, created, and owned by Borghese, a prominent figure in Roman society. The palace was created as a show of wealth, but on a much more private scale than that of the Forums or the Vatican, for example. The villa was used as a destination for larger get-togethers of the most important members of society. The entire house is filled with rare art collections that those who visited the house could view and enjoy. (Kelsey Setla)

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Viewing a Bernini “If you remember only two things from your trip here in Rome, let them be the Sistine Chapel and what lies in this next room.” Those were the words that our tour guide and art historian, Paolo. told us before entering a room at the Borghese Gallery in Rome. He ushered us into the room in small groups where we viewed the statue in the center of the room from specific sides. The view of the statue from the back told an entirely different story than the view from the front. As you walked around the sculpture, you could almost see the scene unfold. You could feel the emotion. The figures came alive right before your eyes. We all stared, amazed at how a scene frozen in time could replay itself hundreds of years later. Bernini’s Apollo and Daphne is truly one of the greatest sights of the entire trip, and I can say that Paolo wasn’t lying when he told us to remember the sculpture. It is Ovid and Bernini fused together in the best way possible, and my most memorable part of the Rome trip. (Tyler Beyett)

Bernini completed the statue in 1625 at the young age of twenty-four and was able, despite his youth, to sculpt a single block marble in a way that made it look as if composed of different materials—the roughness of the bark, the tenderness and thinness of the leaves, and the smooth, glossy finish of the flesh of both Apollo and Daphne. Bernini is also divine at story telling. He likes to capture a moment in time through his works by using tricks, techniques, and fused traditions. It is almost as if you pushed the pause button during a movie, and he recreated the still picture. His baroque Apollo and Daphne was one of our personal favorites. The life-size statue was originally placed near a staircase, so entering the room, it was first seen from behind. While touring the Borghese, our class was split into four groups, one to stand on each side of the sculpture. Paulo brought to our attention that each group would have a totally different perspective and that each side tells a different part of Daphne’s change from human person to natural object through Bernini’s intertwining of solid matter and empty space. From 35

the back, you are only able to see one person, with a view of Apollo running. From the left side, you can see the two figures, with Daphne running away from Apollo as her hands turn to leaves. Looking at the sculpture straight on, you can see her feet turning to roots and bark growing around her legs with a look of exhaustion on her face. Finally, from the right side, you see Apollo catching up to Daphne just as her entire body is transformed into a tree. (Valerie Bourbina, Allison Deighton, Juliann Kasza)

More Bernini What Bernini has accomplished by having different views as a person circles the statue is amazing. Ovid’s story can be told simply by walking around the marble carving. Artists such as Bernini who create masterpieces like Apollo and Daphne really make Rome worth travelling to. Reading about Ovid’s Apollo and Daphne was thrilling, but to see detailed artwork describing the story was by far the best part of my trip. Bernini provides satisfying detail that makes his art interesting to view over and over again. (Christina Winkelman)

I really enjoyed the Borghese Gallery more than I anticipated. It was amazing to me that it was someone’s house and social gathering building. The statues and paintings we saw and learned about within the museum related back to Aeneas’ story in The Aeneid, in addition to some of the legends of gods and goddesses in Ovid, such as Apollo and Daphne. Seeing these events play out in artwork made these works of literature much better. (Allison Kiess)

Ironic master At the Borghese, we learned that Renaissance pictures are meant to tell a story. On each side of Tiziano’s Sacred Love, Hurt Love, two different stories are told. The clothed woman has a background of calmness, while the naked woman has a background of agitation. This, our guide told us, is a painting warning of lust. Cupid is found between the two women, stirring water in a bath, and water is a symbol of women and tranquility. The naked woman is pure and the other is lusting she stares out of the painting at us. By far, Tiziano’s painting was the most intriguing due to the complexity and depth of what it was depicting. I thought I figured it out, but it turned out, the exact 36

opposite was true. The connection between nudity and lust, sexuality, and perversions developed later in Western culture. (Justin Herby)

Text vs. 3-D experience Today we were able to see the Borghese Palace, which was full of Renaissance artwork. I was very excited to have this opportunity being that I am very interested in art history. While walking through the palace, I recognized many paintings and sculptures I had learned about in my ART 100 class. I was unaware I would be seeing my favorite sculpture, Apollo and Daphne. Walking into the room in which it was placed was surreal. The statue was very large and more beautiful than the pictures I’ve seen. This 3-D works perfectly captured the story as you could feel the immense emotion of the scene. On Daphne’s face, you could see the anguish as she was turned into a tree from Apollo’s touch. The use of negative space allowed for the dramatic running motion to be portrayed. (Hunter Steward)

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VI. Art & Literature, Ekphrasis & Resonance Sociology itself is affected by literature. As famous works of literature are read and withstand the test of time, this gives writers great authority as their work can greatly influence both current and future societies. In the end, society and literature go hand in hand as they rely on each other to influence the societies we see around the world today.

(Hunter Stewart)

Ovidian ekphrasis The poem “Apollo and Daphne,” centered on the story of the God Apollo and his love for the nymph, Daphne, is part of Ovid’s Metamorphosis. Bernini’s stature of Apollo and Daphne is forever caught in a single moment of the poem, her change from human to nature. Apollo has just barely caught Daphne, when to escape his advances she suddenly begins transforming into a tree. Ovid’s description of Daphne’s transformation is clearly portrayed in Bernini’s sculpture. The poem states that Daphne’s “soft breasts / Were closed with delicate bark,” and in the statue the layers of bark are just beginning to encase her body. Ovid’s line continues by stating that, “her hair was leaves / Her arms were branches, and her speedy feet /Rooted and held.” In Bernini’s figure, both Daphne’s hair and hands are turning into leaved branches, while her toes begin to turn into roots, becoming connected to the ground. The statue reveals a progression of events, but all together they still only represent one segment or moment of the “Apollo and Daphne” poem. What’s missing from the sculpture is the resolution of the poem. The statue never completes Daphne’s transformation; she is always stuck in that definitive moment where she is half woman and half tree. In Ovid’s poem, Daphne finishes her metamorphosis, but, somewhat horrifically, Apollo does not seem disturbed by the fact that his one true love has been turned into foliage. He actually strips her bark and leaves to create ornaments for himself, so she can be near him always. He even mentions that all Roman victors should wear laurel wreaths. Thus, one purpose of the poem may have been, at least partly, to show the classical Roman audience where the tradition of the laurel came from. But Bernini’s statue centers on Daphne’s kairos, her defining moment of choice, and that perspective makes the piece all the more memorable. (Alex Faley)

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Kairos in The Aeneid It’s been said the life is a series of moments. Some are memorable; others much less so, and still there are a few that define us. Ultimately, all individuals come to a point where they must face a life-altering decision, between good and evil, between right and wrong, between who they were and who they will become. The Greeks used the word kairos to describe the opportune moment, or the decision point, in someone’s story, and the Romans took this idea and built it into their own culture. In Virgil’s Aeneid, Romans descend from the line of Aeneas, a Trojan leader born of the goddess Venus but nevertheless forced into exile after Troy fell to the Greeks. Though there are many stories surrounding this character, the Roman poet Virgil combined them all into a single account in his Aeneid. The epic begins after the fall of Troy, with the Trojans facing exile with an unknown end. After a series of events, Aeneas comes to accept that his destiny is to be the father of a great nation and finds himself in a war with the Latin people and their leader, Turnus. At the very end of the text, Aeneas stands over the wounded Turnus who pleads for his life. Virgil writes,

Turnus’ words Were winning him over, but then his gaze shifted To the fateful baldric on his enemy’s shoulder, And the belt glittered with its familiar metalwork— The belt of young Pallas, whom Turnus had killed And whose insignia he now wore as a trophy.

This is Aeneas’ kairos. He literally holds the power of life or death in his hand, and he must make the decision between showing mercy to his enemy or avenging the death of his ally, Pallas. He chooses, with the stroke of his sword, to send Turnus into the darkness of the underworld. The Romans incorporated the notion of kairos throughout their city, in everything from the mythology passed down through generations to the art that still held in Roman galleries. A society’s values are made clear by what withstands the test of the time, and the idea of seizing the opportune moment is one that certainly has passed the test. When our class arrived in Rome, a very wise woman told us that everything in Rome is sending a message, from the way people dress to the architecture of the buildings. The idea of kairos wasn’t only present in the corridors of ancient museums; it was also present on the streets of the city. Unlike American culture, which seems to accept moments of apathy, Romans make the most of every moment. They work when it’s time to work, and they 39

enjoy their family and food when it’s time to rest. They treat each minute like it has a purpose, never letting it slip by wasted. Perhaps that was the most valuable lesson I learned during my adventure in Rome: whether it’s taking the leap and signing up for a study abroad trip or choosing to open your mind to a new idea during a lecture, every moment is an opportunity, but it must be our choice to rise to it, to welcome a kairos. (Kara Booms)

Lucretius and Hadrian’s “Theatro Marittimo” Hadrian’s Villa is a beautiful mix of ruins, gardens, and character. Yet despite only getting a mere glance into what once was the home of the emperor, much is revealed about who Hadrian was and what he believed in. Remarkably, these values also fall in line with those of Lucretius, a Roman author who lived two centuries earlier. In fact, there is a strong connection between Hadrian’s Villa and Lucretius’ piece On the Nature of Things in terms of the ideas of mind and body, the role of nature, and even death. Hadrian knew the importance of the connection between mind and body, and Lucretius analyzed the same ideas. Lucretius notes that “the mind, or the intelligence as we often term it, in which the reasoning and governing principle of life resides, is a part of a person no less than the hand and foot and eyes are seen to be part of a whole living creature.” Hadrian’s ideas were similar, and he spent time in the upkeep of both his body and mind. Hadrian would seek solitude in his Theatro Marittimo (Maritime Theatre), built on an “island” where he could find tranquility through study and meditation. The island was a spa so that he could attend to the care of his body with rest and rejuvenation. He knew that the mind was strong when the body was strong, just as Lucretius preaches: “the body and spirit, in mutual association learn the motions necessary to life; and this is why they cannot be divorced without meeting with disaster and destruction; [we are] dependent upon the conjunction and marriage of body and soul.”

Hadrian and Lucretius both had a regard for nature and sought to demonstrate its importance. What is

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remarkable about Hadrian’s villa is that it is built to complement the landscape around it, not overtake it.

It follows the design of the hills and is both lush and green, marking nature, not architecture, as the more dominant. This governing idea of nature can be seen amongst Lucretius’ ideas as he says “nature is her own mistress and is exempt from the oppression of arrogant despots, accomplishing everything by herself spontaneously and independently.” On the matter of death, however, these two men did not agree. Hadrian’s villa reveals the emperor’s great concern for personal safety and his constant fear for his life. The Theatro Marittimo, for example, with its high walls and moat, announce that it is more than just a solitary retreat: it is a place of protection. Lucretius, on the other hand, finds death insignificant and not worth concern.

He argues, “Death … is nothing to us and does not affect us in the least, now that the nature of the mind is understood to be mortal.” With this thought in mind, Lucretius addresses the very fear that possessed Hadrian. Lucretius cannot understand why anyone is anxious about such things that are just part of life, for “however many generations your life may span, the same eternal death will still await you.” He describes the fear of death as a shadow surrounding the mind, saying, “This terrifying darkness that enshrouds the mind must be dispelled.” He knows no reason to fear death, because there is nothing beyond it, for it is but the cessation of existence: “you may be sure that there is nothing to fear in death, that those who no longer exist cannot become miserable, and that it makes not one speck of difference whether or not they have ever been born once their mortal life has been snatched away by deathless death.” If this is indeed the case, then Hadrian should have been little concerned for the death that awaited him, whether it came to him sooner than not, especially since he was a studied man and knew the nature of the world around him. Lucretius had pointed out a century earlier that, “many other kings and potentates, rulers of might nations, have passed away … [so] will you, then, be hesitant and indignant, when death calls?” This stark contrast between these two provides an interesting perspective when so many of their other ideas seem to well match up. Romans, ever a mysterious group! (Kaitlyn Cubalo)

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Virgil and the Ara Pacis As part of their religious practices, citizens of the Roman Empire performed daily rituals and prayers as well as sacrifices to their many gods in the hope that the gods would look upon them with favor. Animal sacrifices were especially significant and were usually done by a high priest. In Virgil’s Aeneid, the hero Aeneas needed to gain access to the underworld from a sybil, but in order to speak with her he had to sacrifice seven bulls and seven sheep from a sacred herd. Although the average Roman was not attempting to gain anything so profound as access to the underworld, this passage in the Aeneid illustrates the origins of ritual sacrifice that Ancient Romans would take part in for centuries to come. Around the same time Virgil was writing his epic poem, the Ara Pacis was given as a gift from the Senate to Emperor Augustus after his successful military campaigns in Spain and Gaul. The Ara Pacis, or Altar of Peace, was meant to symbolize the peace that Augustus Caesar had brought to Rome just prior to the beginning of the Christian era and was to be used by the high priest for the most important ritual sacrifices to the god. When visiting the Ara Pacis in Rome, with its intricate relief carvings inspired by descriptions found in the Aeneid—the shepherd’s discovery of the infants Romulus and Remus alongside the Tiber, the white sow with the litter marking the future site of Rome, and so on—it is easy to see how Romans believed that sacrifice and ritual would keep their daily lives balanced and functional. (Amanda Piersall)

The Aeneid vs. Sistine Chapel Taking a class in Rome, students are able to experience the transition from ancient Roman paganism to modern Christianity simply by walking the land that some of the first apostles and martyrs trod to spread their faith in Jesus Christ. Christianity brought the Roman Empire to an end; the inner structure of the domain collapsed, yet the papacy remained a stronghold. With Rome’s visible past on display, an individual can see this transitional path by studying early literature together with art from both ancient and Renaissance periods. Virgil’s Aeneid gave a comprehensive account of the foundation of Rome and delivered a moral compass to Caesar Augustus and his successors regarding the rituals, beliefs, and customs of the city. However, these changed drastically with the

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appearance of Christianity in Rome, even more so when Renaissance artists like Michelangelo turned their own thoughts on sacred events into artistic displays.

By reading literature and viewing art works, students today can see some of the mechanisms of the religious transformation that occurred from the early years of the first millennium through the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries. One of the most dramatic representations is shown in Michelangelo’s work embellishing the ceiling and the altar wall of the Sistine Chapel in Vatican City. The papacy began promulgating Christian themes in Rome, convincing artists, usually Florentine, to paint and sculpt biblical scenes.

Michelangelo’s frescoes on the famous Sistine Ceiling incorporate the three father figures of Christianity—God, Adam, and Noah.

Michelangelo’s response to Christianity is portrayed in the fresco containing two God figures, one of which is facing the viewer, while the other has his backside exposed. Perhaps in a seemingly artistic way, Michelangelo was saying that he had turned his back on Christianity. This is likely because he also included pagan beliefs in his version of the Last Judgment. This fresco covers the altar wall in the Sistine Chapel; it portrays Christ’s return with angels announcing the apocalypse. On Jesus’ right side in the painting, the viewer sees angels pulling believers up to heaven with them, where they are to live in eternal peace. In contrast, on the left side of Christ, the angels are seen hitting unbelievers down toward the gates of hell, represented by the River Styx, the crossing point from mortal life to the pagan Underworld. Charon is seen ferrying the ill-fated souls to the Underworld, where they are to be judged by Minos and thrown to their eternal punishments in Tartarus, the more “hellish” sector of the Underworld. These settings and characters and are borrowed, to no small extent, from Aeneas’ journey to the Underworld in Virgil’s Aeneid as he fulfilled his destiny to found Rome. However, the Rome of the Aeneid was a far different society from the Rome of Michelangelo—things had definitely changed. (Renee Frahm)

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Literary resonance: Reader become character I thought for a while about how I could relate my experience at the Sistine Chapel with the classical literature we read prior to this trip. And then I remembered a part of the Aeneid where Aeneas sees depictions of his family along a temple wall in Carthage. This is exactly how I felt while in the Chapel. I was looking at portraits of my own family—God creating man, of Christ coming back to Earth and making the final judgment, and of many other things I have grown up learning about on Sundays. I did not feel as if I was only looking at famous, revolutionary artwork, but I felt like I was seeing my ancestry, the history and beginning of my life and faith. I felt so connected to everything our guide, Paolo, was saying; I absorbed anything and everything I could about these figures before me. This was by far the most personal experience of the trip for me. It resonated with that of Aeneas; different time, different place, but the same effect—awe at seeing our genesis depicted before us, larger than life. (Lauren Stuart)

Venus vs. Mary: Sacred space transformed In the Roman Forum is a small ruin that is hardly noticeable if one is just passing by, but once it was a grand dedication to Venus. According to the story of Romulus and Remus, a large and filthy stream ran through the village. Venus purified the stream and, as a result, a large temple was built in her honor. In the Imperial Forum, there is also a temple set aside for Venus. The temple was built to honor Venus because some emperors believed they were her children. These two temples in the Forums show Venus’s importance and popularity in ancient Rome.

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Mary can also be found in the city, but in a more obvious way. For example, a square by the French Embassy contained pictures of Mary at each of the four corners. The people of Rome placed the pictures there for protection; they believed that Mary would save them for their troubles.

The main places, however, where dedications to Mary can be found are in the various churches of the city. In many of the churches are paintings and statues of Mary. The Sistine Chapel, spectacularly beautiful, was dedicated to Mary.

This shows her role as a strong contributor to the Catholic religion and the respect given to her by the faithful.

During a visit to Rome, one sees that less architecture and art is dedicated to Venus than Mary, largely due to the passage of time. Distinct differences in the art and architecture dedicated to both women reveals to viewers more about each mother. First, when examining buildings dedicated to each figure, the observer can readily see characteristics of each mother. In the Roman Forum, the temple dedicated to Venus is tall and grand, symbolizing that Venus was strong, powerful, and deserving of attention.

People of that time stopped at that structure to honor the great and might Venus. The viewer can also tell that Venus was strong because of the long straight parallel lines of the piece. The piece’s curved lines show, however, that she also had a loving and tender side. Lastly, the sturdy foundation and large columns reflect that Venus was tough and independent enough to stand among other great and powerful gods. As a point of contrast for Mary, we can turn to the Sistine Chapel. From the outside, the chapel contains more curved carvings and subtle designs. Although grand, it is not very extravagant, nor does it draw much attention when one is walking by. Perhaps this symbolizes that Mary was well known, but viewed as humbler and more reserved than Venus. When it comes to the inside of the chapel though, the chapel definitely comes more ornate. Michelangelo painted the ceiling of the church with beautiful and colorful frescos that tell stories of the Catholic religion. These painting are so stunning and reflect that Mary was so special and seen as a beautiful and enchanting woman.

Lastly, the Chapel is grand and large, but in comparison to structures linked to Venus, it gives off a more peaceful feeling. The decorative curved 45

lines and soft colors show Mary as elegant and serene, whereas Venus’ temple give off a feeling of strength and arrogance. (Jennifer Gentner)

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Viii. Final Thoughts The beauty of Rome is unreal. (Vincent Flores)

And awesome The entire trip was awesome. I genuinely liked learning about all the buildings and histories of Rome. Even though we saw a lot while we were visiting, there are still so many things to find in Rome since almost everything there is built on top of something else. One of our guides was telling us that in Rome, it is not a matter of if you will find something when you dig, it is what you will find when you do.

(Kellie Badalamenti)

We had a dinner in a restaurant by Campo di Fiori. We had all sorts of deliciousness!

There were deep-fried anchovies, mozzarella, bruschetta, spaghetti carbonara, veggies, and tiramisu. I was so full. We sat by Irene, our Italian language tutor, and she’s the coolest ever. I loved talking with her; she speaks much better English than she lets on. We went out for a digestivo afterward, and then walked to the Trevi in the rain, so I could make my third wish. It was a good last day. I don’t want to go home. (Kara Booms)

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Overjoyed!

Going on this adventure to see these ancient works of art was the opportunity of a lifetime that I am overjoyed I got to experience. I enjoyed the stories that these divergent art forms—literature, painting, sculpture—demonstrated to me in the most astonishing way. They surround you in the Eternal City and mesmerize your senses, as happened to me, with its significant relics, its charm, and its ever-timeless beauty. I have opened my eyes to see that there is life beyond the borders of our borders. This life changed my views completely, and I am determined to go back to Rome one day, and even explore new countries and the magnificent stories they have to offer. (Valerie Bourbina)

Ah, Roma!

It’s our last day in Rome, and I slept in today. Someone was supposed to come and inspect our room at between 10:30 and 11:30, but that of course didn’t happen…. Welcome to Roma! (Erica Seamon)

Literary affects Today marks our final day in Rome, and my last journal entry of the trip, though I know it deserves so many more reflections. It is strange being torn away from our own homes to come to a strange place, finally begin settling into this place, beginning to find my way around, and then again being asked to leave this beautiful city. I feel a bit like Aeneas who faced a similar set of circumstances, always being called onward, but having so little time to look back.

Regardless, I know that all our eyes are glancing over our shoulders. I have no doubt that the majority of people on this excursion will one day return to Rome.

This city has captured our hearts in a way that I have never seen. Something draws us back—its beauty, its business, the ancient spirit that rests here, or even the adventure. I am in awe of the past intermingled with the present; the fact that you can walk down the streets of the modern city, and then turn the corner and suddenly see a building that stood in the days of the Empire. It is an experience unlike any other, being able to touch the ghosts of the past. (Kaitlyn Cubalo) 48

No place like Rome This trip has been a life-changing experience! It has opened my eyes to new people, history, and culture. Rome surpassed my expectations … greatly. My favorite places we visited were the Trevi Fountain, Tivoli, and Speerlonga! Oh, and the Spanish steps! I enjoyed everything we saw, despite the long days. I’ve realized that studying abroad is the best way to experience the city as a visitor and not a tourist! I was also surprised on how much Italian we learned as well!

I can’t wait to return to the eternal city! Studying abroad in Rome, Italy has given me a wonderful chance to take classic literary texts and bring them to life. I received an out-ofclassroom experience that enables me to not only get an enhanced grasp of the books, but also to immerse myself in a new culture, the one in which they were written. Books such as Lucretius’ On the Nature of Things, and Virgil’s Aeneid were composed for the Roman audience thousands of years ago in the eternal city. What is so amazing is that much of the ancient city is still preserved and that we were able to explore different sites to bring our texts alive! I thoroughly enjoyed my study abroad experience and learned so much more about these texts than I ever would have on campus. I also learned more about Rome than I ever would have if I did not study abroad, and read and plan ahead as we did as a class. I want to give thanks to a very knowledgeable and caring group of professors, I had an extremely rewarding experience and will always remember this as the trip of a lifetime. I truly believe that one has not really “seen” history until they have visited Italy—as they say, “There’s no place like Rome.” (Allison Deighton & Juliann Kasza)

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Literary meditation: Aeneas and me From the dawn of civilization man has always sought to explain his origin by asserting the belief in the divine or supernatural. From the creation myths of the Native Americans, to those of paganism and Christianity, many stories abound about the creation of the world. Virgil’s Aeneid projects that Rome was founded by Romulus and Remus, descendants of Aeneas, a survivor of the great city of Troy and born of the goddess Venus, led by the divine guidance of Jupiter. From its very beginnings, Rome was held to be divinely founded and divinely guided. Every SVSU student on our excursion would concur. Entering Rome is like being in the blissful Elysian Fields. Walking around one can feel that they are in a place where emperors, popes, and saints walked and lived. The words one must use to explain the beauty and magic of Rome simply to do not exist. Rome must be experienced on the grounds, live. And when it’s time to leave the eternal city, one feels like Aeneas, leaving behind his city of Troy for a place unknown and unfamiliar. As I finish writing my last entry in Rome, I think about the entire journey. Throughout these three weeks we have all become good friends and have experienced so much. I have to say that deciding to go on this trip was one of the best decisions I’ve ever made. I’ve really fallen in love with this glorious city. I never thought it would come to that, but it did. I love this city so much that I know I will return someday. I have to return someday. Until then … arrivederci, Roma! Thank you, God, for bringing me here! Thank you, God, for everything! (Anthony Flores)

Without words Rome is a fantastic city to visit, especially for those interested in history, religion, or art. I would highly recommend a visit to see the sights for yourself because no matter how many pictures you see or stories you read about, nothing will come close to the actual amazement one feels walking through the ruins of the Roman Forum, being completely overshadowed by the immense Colosseum, or gazing at the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel at a total loss for words. I have a feeling that I will never be able to put into words what I have experienced. The only way for someone to truly understand and appreciate Rome is to come visit it for themselves. (Bethany Koch)

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Rome, forevermore It would have been impossible to see everything there is to see in Rome during the two weeks that our group was there. With that said, it would also be impossible to see everything in Rome in two years. This trip was the experience of a lifetime. Rome is a city filled with rich history and culture; be it religious, imperial, mythic, or otherwise, there is something for everyone in Rome. (Greg McNish)

Never forget I will never forget this trip to Rome. I can’t really put into words how much this time in Rome meant to me. It was a dream come true. I needed to get away from my life, school, work, everything. I needed an escape, and this trip was perfect for that. I didn’t want to leave one bit. I’m going to forever remember the things I saw, the people I met, the things I learned, and the friends I’ve made. This trip gave me everything I was looking for. I loved every second I was there. (Laura Piacentini)

Last visit After dinner a group of us went to the Pantheon to admire it one last time. When we got there, there was a woman paying classical violin near the pillars. It was raining, the music was playing and the majestic Pantheon, an epic piece of architecture that has endured for the last millennia, surrounded us on all sides. It was one of the happiest moments of my life. Being there made me feel like there is something bigger than myself out there. Knowing that for thousands of years people have been at the Pantheon feeling the same way I do is a humbling and fascinating thought. (Morgan Rousseau)

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To travel is to grow My Study Abroad trip to Rome, Italy, was a life-changing experience. Everyone should give themselves the opportunity to travel to another country and live the local lifestyle. I learned so much about myself and my home country. I was able to do a lot of self-evaluation and was able to really grow as a person, as this was one of my main goals. Now more than ever, I have the stir-crazy feeling of wanting to travel more, experience different cultures, and expand my own horizons. I’m excited to be home, but Rome became home too. I don’t feel like I just visited Rome; I lived there. The trip has been amazing, and our professor was the perfect person to go with. He is so passionate about this place, and that made it easier to truly appreciate this opportunity.

This has been the best experience of my life and a time I will never forget with people I will never forget. We became a small family, and it was great. None of us knew each other prior to this trip, and now we all share something so special. I can say I have become 100% Roman over the past 2 ½ weeks and will miss everything about Italy, even the not so pleasant things. I can’t wait to tell people about this experience, knowing one day I will live here again. (Lauren Stuart)

Back to Roma Words cannot express how this trip changed my life. Now, a week later, I am still amazed that I got to go to Roma. All the people I met are truly amazing and wonderful. Our professor is a very influential and kind person. Those past two weeks will be in my memory forever. Telling people my stories does not even do the city justice. I tell people that they have to experience it themselves.

Save the money and just do it. I told Paolo that I would return for a month and now that is my goal.

I threw a coin over my left shoulder into the Trevi Fountain, so I hope I return to Roma very, very soon! (Rebecca Taylor)

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Today marks our last day in Italy. It is bittersweet, as I have fallen in love with Rome. The city life was quite the shock, and three weeks here has been a lot. However, Rome will be a place I will want to visit again to explore even more places I haven’t seen in this city.

(Savannah Boak)

Today marks our last day in Roma. With heavy hearts and tons of amazing memories, we packed our bags and headed to the airport.

The past twenty-one days were ones I will never forget as long as I live. The experience and knowledge we obtained marked a oncein-a-lifetime opportunity. Sitting on the plane, I am so happy that I chose to branch out and take this amazing opportunity. Dr. Sullivan and our Italiaidea tour guides allowed me to fully engulf myself in Rome’s history. I will forever be a lifelong learner of the history this world has to offer, thanks to this trip. (Hunter Steward)

A final salutation: Arrivederci, Roma!

I close with a personal entry from my journal that is dated May 21, 2017: “The journey has now come to an end; I am sitting on the plane flying back to the United States right now. It has been a very long experience. Some memories good, some great, but also some bad ones mixed in, but that is just how life is. To quote my favorite movie, ‘Life is like a box of chocolates, you never know what you are gonna get.’

This trip has been one of the best experiences I have had in my life. I still have a lot of living to do, but I hope I never forget what I have learned and experienced on this trip. I learned about friendship, the history of Rome, of course, and about myself. I was scared the first week; I was in another country with a group of people I barely knew. I was afraid to go out to get coffee in the morning.

I was afraid of the fact that I didn’t really know anyone. I didn’t know if they would have my back if I needed them. I didn’t know if I would be accepted into any groups. I didn’t 53

know if I should go on this trip in the beginning. Now, I know. I know all of these people, some better than others. I know that these guys always had my back in Rome. I know that I will probably not forget these people that I spent three weeks with. Leaving Rome was bittersweet. I was ready to go back home to see my family and friends, but I didn’t want to leave that beautiful city where the only things I had to worry about were when I had to wake up, what beautiful place I was going to explore, and what Italian restaurant I wanted to try for dinner. I wish I could take everything from home and just move it to Rome. When I see my family and friends from back home, they are going to ask me how things went, what I liked, what I saw and everything I did. I don’t know how I am going to respond to this. If I told them exactly what they ask for in the amount of detail that will live in my mind for a long time, then I will probably not stop talking for another three weeks. It’s going to be difficult to try to explain everything I enjoyed because, for the most part, that would be almost all of my trip. It’s going to be hard to describe the rich beauty of a city like Rome to someone who has never been there before. I do hope I get the chance to visit Rome again when I am older. That might not be for a very long time. The next time I go, I could have a family of my own. That way I can share the beauty of Rome with the people I care most for. Their trip will be different than mine. If someone else is reading this, your trip will be different than mine. We might see all the same things, but it will be in a different way. You will most likely see things in a different way than I did; the way you experience these things and the people you are with when you are experiencing these things set it apart from my experience of Rome. And that is what makes it special.

Experiencing things with people you already care about, or will come to care about, is one of the best things you can do in your life.”

I miss Rome a little more every day; I can’t help but want to laugh and shed a tear while re-reading my journal. I learned so much, about myself and the beautiful place called Rome. (Vincent Flores)

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