SUSSEX MODERN #2

Editor: Jayne Robinson Design: Playne Design Print: Pureprint, Sussex sussexmodern.org.uk @sussexmodern

WELCOME TO SUSSEX MODERN

At the edge of the country where land meets sea, Sussex has always attracted those who look outwards to imagine the world differently. Nowhere is this more noticeable than in the region’s many art galleries and museums, risen up from the artists’ communities that dot the county.

One such place was conceived 100 years ago when its patron founder left behind 22 paintings and a wish for an art gallery. A century later, Towner Eastbourne is the focus of the entire art world, and host to the Turner Prize 2023. This renowned contest couldn’t have found a more fitting home than here in Sussex. And while the whole world is looking, we want to show you just why so many generations of artists, bohemians, producers and free-thinkers have found their homes here too.

02 EASTBOURNE IS ALIVE

The Turner Prize is coming.

20 SUSSEX WINELANDS

Abbie Moulton takes the tour.

28 KNEPP REWILDING

From Weald to Waves.

10 GET OUTTA TOWN Explore the Eastbourne region.

16 MODERN HOUSES

British modernism in four Sussex homes.

24 26 TWO DAYS IN ARUNDEL Insider guide to this storybook town.

GROW LOCAL Regenerative Sussex produce.

34 38 STILL WINES

Olly Smith picks the best Sussex stills.

WINE PEOPLE Dermot Sugrue on the Trouble with Dreams.

Cover photo: Marc Atkins

Left photo: Emma Croman

EASTBOURNE IS

V L A E I

Small enough to dip into in a day, exciting enough to stay for a week, Eastbourne’s got it going on. So if you do like to be beside the seaside, here are just some of the things to do, places to stay, eat and drink in Eastbourne: Britain’s new cultural hotspot.

ART AND CULTURE

Painted in bold geometric rainbow colours by German artist Lothar Götz, art gallery Towner Eastbourne is one of the town’s most instantly recognisable buildings. But this modernist marvel stands out in many more ways: with a consistently top-drawer programme of exhibitions, its own independent cinema, a newly zhuzhed-up café and new second-floor restaurant, Light, as well as a shop and event spaces, it's a worthy home for the Turner Prize — which just happens to be hosted here in 2023 as part of the gallery’s centenary year. A short stroll away (just like everything in Eastbourne, hooray!), the small but excellent Emma Mason Gallery is the place to see work by artist printmakers working in Britain from the

1950s onwards, while VOLT, a gallery and project space located near the seafront and established as part of the Devonshire Collective, showcases work by emerging and mid-career artists with an experimental approach and a programme of bold and ambitious exhibitions.

For live music, theatre and more, the Congress Theatre (the only place outside London to see the London Philharmonic perform), Devonshire Park Theatre and Winter Garden are all situated in the heart of Eastbourne’s cultural quarter. Not in Eastbourne, but only twenty minutes along the coast in nearby Bexhill–on-Sea, the spectacular De La Warr Pavilion is an art gallery, concert venue and cultural hub with a year-round programme of music, theatre, exhibitions and other events.

See the Turner Prizeshortlisted artists’ works at Towner Eastbourne until April 2024.

Photo: Rosie Powell

Photo: Will Hearle

Photo: Light Restaurant

Jesse Darling, No Medals No Ribbons, installation

FOOD AND DRINK

What is it about all that sea air that makes us so hungry? Luckily, Eastbourne is spilling over with quality places to eat, drink and then eat some more. For brunch, lunch and neighbourhood dining, Skylark is a chic, unfussy independent with a secret courtyard for warmer days. Relaxed dining and great wine is the order of the day at Cru, with its seasonal sharing plates and handpicked wines, while the circular Bistrot Pierre is a chain, yes, but with such spectacular panoramic sea views. For something extra special, Port Hotel‘s stylish and seasonal menu never disappoints — or head to Towner's newly opened rooftop restaurant and bar, Light, serving Scandinavian-inspired dishes with skyline views.

Looking for something to eat on the go?

For a true Eastbourne foodie experience, head to the eastern end of the Royal Parade, where working fishmongers, The Fish and Crab Shack, serves up the freshest seafood and legendary crab sandwiches to windswept beach walkers. The Soup n Tap, is a cosy, low-key spot you’ll never want to leave on colder days, or for carbs to keep you fuelled, artisanal bakery To The Rise has you covered. It’s not a trip to the seaside without an ice cream: try Gelato Famoso’s deservedly famous gelato — we heartily recommend their homemade pistachio.

Thanks to its location deep in the heart of Sussex Winelands, Eastbourne brims with quality bars serving local English wines and independently brewed beers. With a good selection of Sussex wine (plus more than 200 varieties from around the world, if you must), Levels wine bar is a wine taster’s dream, with self-service tasting machine and impressively knowledgeable staff.

The best cocktails in town can be found at Port Hotel‘s seafront bar, while beer lovers should head to Eastbourne’s craft beer specialist shop and sipping room Bottle Grove. Pub? The colourful and quirky Dew Drop Inn, Rainbow Pub or The Dolphin all offer a warm welcome and a good meal in a family- and dog-friendly environment.

Thanks to its location deep in the heart of Sussex wine country, Eastbourne brims with quality bars serving local English wines and independently brewed beers.

Photos: Emma Croman and Tayler J Forrester

COFFEE

You’re never far from an excellent coffee in Eastbourne. Near the station, Nelson Coffee’s Roastery serves high-grade, seasonal and ethical coffee (and a great brunch too), while in the station’s former ticket office, Foundry Coffee’s flagship location ensures you never have to travel empty handed. You’ll also find them inside the Beacon shopping centre. With two locations in central Eastbourne, Urban Ground Coffee make excellent coffee to take away or enjoy with a relaxed brunch, while DOC Coffee, Beanzz and Hyde Corner Coffee in Eastbourne’s vibrant Little Chelsea area are ideal places to while away an afternoon of people watching and flipping through arty magazines.

SHOPPING

Book lovers unite, and head to the legendary Camilla’s Bookshop to lose yourself in three floors piled high with second-hand, rare and antique books. There’s also a parrot hiding in there somewhere amongst the paperbacks. All Things Analogue is heaven for fans of beautiful stationery, while Barley Sugar is the place to stock up your pantry with top quality local produce.

STAY THE NIGHT (or more)

Fall asleep to the sound of the waves at the seafront Port Hotel: Eastbourne’s best boutique hotel by a seaside mile, with an excellent all-day restaurant and bar. Out of town and into the Cuckmere Valley, ex-smugglers’ haunt, The Star at Alfriston, is a rural idyll near to Rathfinny Wine Estate, while on the other side of town, follow the coast to Norman’s Bay and the recently rekindled Relais Cooden Beach Hotel, complete with private beach and mid-century interiors.

Find more places to stay in Sussex at sussexmodern.org.uk

Head to Eastbourne’s ‘Little Chelsea’ district for the best independent shops, coffee and more.

Photos: Emma Croman and Tayler J Forrester

AROUND THE TOWNER

This year, Towner Eastbourne is host to one of the best-known prizes for the visual arts in the world: the Turner Prize. If you’re in Eastbourne to see the Turner Prize exhibition, here are just a few of the exciting fringe events to get involved with.

This is the first time the prize has ever been held in Sussex, and it comes to the town in an important year for Towner as the gallery celebrates its 100th year with a fringe festival of cultural events. The work of the four shortlisted Turner Prize artists — Jesse Darling, Ghislaine Leung, Rory Pilgrim and Barbara Walker — is at Towner from 28 September 2023 to 14 April 2024, forming the centrepiece of the gallery’s centenary celebrations. This programme of cultural events across Eastbourne includes exhibitions, activities, special events and public art commissions.

The four shortlisted artists for this year’s Turner Prize are:

EASTBOURNE

SEPTEMBER TO APRIL Modern Monuments

To accompany the Turner Prize exhibition, Eastbourne ALIVE will present a series of major artworks across public spaces in Eastbourne by artists including Nathan Coley and Helen Cammock. Drawing on the resort’s original design from the mid-nineteenth century — laid out in long tree-lined boulevards marked by grand monuments and statues — this series of temporary public interventions explores the notion of a modern-day monument, investigating what these cultural markers might look like today and the sorts of events, objects or people they memorialise. Discover the works and artists at eastbournealive.co.uk.

SEPTEMBER Artwave

Nominated for his solo exhibitions ‘No Medals, No Ribbons’ at Modern Art Oxford and ‘Enclosures’ at Camden Art Centre. Darling’s work encompasses sculptures and installations which evoke the vulnerability of the human body and the precariousness of power structures.

Nominated for her solo exhibition ‘Fountains’ at Simian, Copenhagen, Leung’s work takes the form of ‘scores’ — sets of instructions which test the boundaries of the gallery space. Baby monitors, child safety gates, inflatable structures, toys,and water fountains are used to turn the exhibition structure on its head, asking questions about time, leisure, and labour.

Nominated for the commission ‘RAFTS’ at Serpentine and Barking Town Hall, and a live performance of the work at Cadogan Hall, London. Pilgrim’s work interweaves stories, poems, music and film, created in collaboration with local communities in the borough of Barking and Dagenham, to reflect on times of change and struggle during the pandemic.

Nominated for her presentation entitled ‘Burden of Proof’ at Sharjah Biennial 15. With a practice that interrogates past and present issues of racial identity, exclusion and power, Walker’s presentation explores the impact of the Windrush scandal, underlaying figurative drawn portraits with facsimiles of the documentation these individuals had to produce, to prove their right to remain.

SEPTEMBER TO JANUARY

New arts space for Lewes Charleston launches a new second space in the heart of Lewes this autumn, with a major exhibition exploring the Bloomsbury group through fashion.

‘Bring No Clothes: Bloomsbury and Fashion’ is the first major exhibition to explore the fashion of the Bloomsbury group, and how the 20th century cultural collective still impacts global style over 100 years on. Curated by writer Charlie Porter, the exhibition spotlights the relationship that radical figures such as Virginia Woolf, Duncan Grant and Vanessa Bell had with clothing, while celebrating 21st century fashion designers who have found inspiration in Bloomsbury art and life. charleston.org.uk

Celebrating its 30th anniversary this year, Artwave festival takes place each September and sees more than 800 Sussex artists showcase their work in studios and galleries — as well as some rather more unusual locations — around the Lewes, Seaford and Newhaven areas. Pick up a map, join the trail and you’ll be able to meet the artists and buy their work directly from their magic hands. Find out more by visiting artwavefestival.org

NEWHAVEN

UNTIL END OF OCTOBER Follow Ravilious — Newhaven Views

Until the end of October, follow a trail of giant billboard-scale artworks throughout Newhaven, featuring some of Eric Ravilious’s best-loved images of Newhaven, with responses by contemporary artists Charlotte Prodger, Mark Titchner, Emily Allchurch, and Jo Lamb, inspired by Ravilious and the modern Newhaven landscape.

Dior Men Summer 23, courtesy Dior

Photo: Rosie Powell Barbara Walker, Burden of Proof, 2022. Installation view.

Jesse Darling

Ghislaine Leung

Rory Pilgrim

Barbara Walker

LEWES NEWHAVEN – SEAFORD – LEWES

GET OUTTA TOWN

If you’re lucky enough to be visiting Eastbourne for more than a day, then be sure to get out of town and explore some of the local area. Did we mention this is Sussex Winelands? Leave the car behind: you never know when you might stumble upon a vineyard, and it would be very rude not to stop and sample the produce.

BY FOOT

Walk from Holywell to see the famous lighthouse, or catch a bus to Seven Sisters Country Park — recently named one of the most beautiful places in the whole world by Conde Nast Traveller — and explore to your heart’s content. From here you can also pick up a bike from the excellent Cuckmere Cycle Company at the visitor centre, and cycle around the valley to Rathfinny Wine Estate. We recommend an e-bike, unless you have thighs of steel.

Perfect pubs walkable from Eastbourne include the Tiger Inn in the beautiful little village of East Dean (a circular coastal walk over the cliffs via Birling Gap will get you there), or the cosy Eight Bells in Jevington, from where you can continue on to discover the mysterious Long Man of Wilmington.

BY WATER

Hire a kayak from Wish Tower to explore Eastbourne from the sea, or meander along the Cuckmere River on a SUP or canoe (from April –October).

BY BIKE

Pick up a bike from the seafront stands at Fisherman's Green, or from Cuckmere Cycle Company at Seven Sisters Country Park. For routes and advice, pop into Cadence Cycle Club at Helen Garden.

Photo: Tayler J Forrester

OF THE BEST…

Eastbourne to Henners Vineyard

Established in 2007, this picturesque vineyard enjoys a sweet spot on a slight hillside with views across the Pevensey Levels. Here you’ll find Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, as well as some lovely sea breezes to revive warm cyclists and grapevines alike. Reach it via an enjoyably level cycle route through Pevensey Marshes, where big skies, flat roads and abundant wildlife abound.

Eastbourne to Hidden Spring (via Off The Line)

Join the Cuckoo Trail cycle route from Polegate to Hidden Spring vineyard: a boutique wine producer creating world-class still and sparkling wines. Stop off at the female-owned Off The Line vineyard — so-called for its location on the old Cuckoo Line — to try their pioneering English rosé.

Eastbourne to Rathfinny

Big hills and equally big views await on this dramatic adventure across the cliffs to the mighty Rathfinny Wine Estate, known for its Traditional Method Sussex Sparkling wines and spectacular location overlooking the Cuckmere Valley and the sea. The route takes in two Cadence Cycle Clubhouses (at Beachy Head and Litlington). An e-bike is highly recommended for this very hilly route.

Routes provided by Roger Myall of Cadence Cycle Club. Scan the QR code to find and explore interactive route maps. Follow @cadencecycleclub for more.

Photo: Daniel Alford

EASTBOURNE VINEYARD CYCLE ROUTES

CULTURE BY THE COAST

There’s something special about the 18 mile stretch of Sussex coastline that connects the towns of Eastbourne, Bexhill, and Hastings. Artists, makers, and creators have long been drawn here by the light and the landscapes, forging creative communities along the shore.

It’s possible to explore them all in a day or two, by bike or by foot, taking the Coastal Culture Trail between three award-winning galleries: Towner Eastbourne, De La Warr Pavilion, and Hastings Contemporary.

Towner Eastbourne

De La Warr Pavilion

Hastings Contemporary

THE RELAIS COODEN BEACH therelaisretreats.com PORT HOTEL porthotel.co.uk

Start your journey in Eastbourne, where the Towner gallery rises from the townscape like a modernist rainbow, thanks to Lothar Götz’s iconic 2019 mural, ‘Dance Diagonal’. And if you’re looking for a pot of gold you’ve found it — this awardwinning gallery houses plenty of artistic treasures in the Towner collection as well as an impressive calendar of events and high profile exhibitions. This year, Towner turns 100 (although the current building dates from 2009) and is hosting the Turner Prize as part of its centenary year. Fuel up on brunch with rooftop views at the airy new Light Restaurant, before setting off on your way to De La Warr Pavilion. From Eastbourne, you can catch a direct train to Bexhill on Sea — or for the full coastal adventure hop on a bike (take your own, or pick up an App-Bike from the stands at Fisherman’s Green) and cycle along the seaside, skirting around the beautiful Pevensey Bay and Norman’s Bay. The cycle takes around an hour, and you can stop at the mid-century modern Relais Cooden Beach to recharge along the way.

In the 1930s, the seemingly conventional English seaside town of Bexhill-on-Sea made a bold experiment in social culture and design when commissioning a brand new, architecturally innovative public pavilion on the seafront. Ever since, the light and airy De La Warr Pavilion has been an emblem for creative exploration and entertainment.

This remarkable modernist building connects Sussex with Europe. It was designed by émigré architects fleeing oppressive regimes, and its aims were unashamedly democratic — open to everyone. That spirit continues to this day through the Pavilion’s vibrant international, national and local arts programme. Visit an exhibition, make time for reflection, join in the exhilaration of a live gig or festival, or just sit on the Pavilion’s café balcony and watch the light change over the distant outline of Beachy Head while you plan the next step of your trail.

Your next and final stop is Hastings Contemporary, which is an enjoyable 25-minute seafront cycle, or a leisurely two-hour walk along the coast from Bexhill-on-Sea. Along the way you’ll see the peaceful Glynde Beach (a locals’ favourite), and pass through the vibrant seaside town of St Leonards: stop here at colourful beach café Goat Ledge for the best seafoodstreetfood. Short on time? The two towns are connected by a 10-minute direct train service.

Perched at the edge of the sea amongst the weatherboarded fishnet huts of Hastings Old Town, Hastings Contemporary champions modern and contemporary art with an ambitious programme of temporary exhibitions, showcasing work by important modern British artists, internationally celebrated and emerging practitioners. Once you’ve taken in an exhibition or two, it’s worth staying to explore the old town, the pier and the castle — and if you’re lucky you might catch the annual seafood and wine festival (September) or the town’s famous Jack in the Green festivities (May).

To plan your route, head to coastalculturetrail.com, and follow @coastalculturetrail for latest news and inspiration.

Photo: Daniel Alford

THE STORY OF BRITISH MODERNISM IN FOUR SUSSEX HOMES

The Modern House is a nationwide estate agency that helps people buy and sell homes in more thoughtful and beautiful ways. Drawing from their archive, they have plotted a condensed history of British modernism, as told via the homes they have sold in Sussex.

EAST PRESTON SEA LANE HOUSE BY MARCEL BREUER

Like many of his Bauhaus colleagues, the Hungarian-born architect and furniture designer Marcel Breuer fled Dessau, Germany, in 1935 and came to London, where he spent two years working before eventually leaving for the US. Sea Lane House in East Preston, West Sussex, is one of the accomplishments of his stay in England and is not just an important example of pre-war modernism in this country, but an internationally significant example of the transition between the rigidity of early Bauhaus architecture, and the more expressive detailing that would define the coming decades. Here, a boxy L-shaped plan is animated by an elegant curving sun terrace.

You may not know the name, but you know his work: Russian-born Brit Serge Chermayeff was one of the architects behind the landmark De La Warr Pavilion in Bexhill on Sea, East Sussex. His country house, finished shortly after in 1938, situates many of the same design features of the pavilion — a rectangular plan, glazed southerly elevations, and play with the scale of grids — in harmony with the English countryside, largely thanks to the use of wood for both construction and cladding. Chermayeff filled the house with artworks by his friends Ben Nicholson, Barbara Hepworth and Henry Moore, and once hosted the great American architect Frank Lloyd Wright for tea on the terrace.

RYE

American modernism’s influence on British architecture was being strongly felt by the mid-century. Sussex-based John Schwerdt particularly admired the work of Wright (the same Wright who had tea at Chermayeff’s) and encouraged his client, advertising executive Sidney Horniblow, to look at Wright’s key works during his frequent trips to America. Impressed, Horniblow commissioned Schwerdt to design for him this sprawling house, which as well as Wrightian influences, also references the work of German-born American Mies van der Rohe in its flat roof, expanses of glazing and material palette.

RUNCTON SEVERELS BY WALTER GREAVES

In the closing decades of the 20th century, modernism became more expressive and bolder, and this house, designed by Walter Greaves for his own use exemplifies how far the movement had come on from Breuer’s time. Rather than simple boxy forms and straight lines, Greaves’ design incorporates organic, free-flowing interior spaces that externally form ‘a complex skyline of flat and mono-pitched roofs’, as Historic England put in their Grade II* listing of the house — one of only very few awarded to homes of this period.

NEAR LEWES BENTLEY WOOD BY SERGE CHERMAYEFF

UDIMORE, NEAR

WHITE FOX LODGE BY JOHN SCHWERDT

Photography by The Modern House

SUSSEX WINELANDS

FRIDAY EVENING

SUNDOWNER AT WISTON ESTATE AND CHALK RESTAURANT

Author of New British Wine, Abbie Moulton heads westwards to the lands of cathedrals and wildflower hills, to discover some of the best English wines being produced here on Sussex soil.

One of the things I find captivating about being here in the early days of England’s wine scene is witnessing the journey in real-time. The story is still being written — new styles and terroir secrets revealed with every winemaking chapter. West Sussex, with its hills of history and soils of chalk, limestone, silt, sand, and clay, is already a known hotspot for quality sparklings. It’s also where cool-climate varieties thrive. In recent years, we’ve seen the rise of exceptional still wines from Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Bacchus, and Ortega join the existing trinity of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier.

England’s burgeoning wine scene brings the joy of having our own ‘wine

country’ on our doorstep. Just as renowned regions around the world have their own character — the azure blue and lavender-flanked vineyards of Provence, for instance — here sweeping landscapes scattered with cathedrals, castles, farmlands, and ancient forests showcase the quintessential English charm. These wildflower-flecked hills and streets of Sussex stone could only belong to one corner of the world.

Luckily for us, Sussex and its awardwinning vineyards offer enough tastings, tours, and cellar doors to keep even the thirstiest of wine explorers busy. Add some of the finest farm produce, and boutique luxury hotels, and we’ve got all the ingredients for an idyllic weekend

I can think of few better ways to unwind after the working week than with the view at Wiston Estate. Rolling panoramas of hills and vibrant flowers collide in a picture-postcard setting. Join their ‘Sundowner Safari’ for an immersive experience including an estate tour, wine tasting, and dinner at Chalk restaurant, named in homage to the chalk soils that provide exceptional conditions for sparkling wines’ signature finesse. The highlight for me, though, was the newly released ‘Fifty Summers’ Still Rosé, with its delicate hue and notes of fresh cherry and nectarine, enjoyed on the sun-drenched terrace.

NIGHTCAP AT THE PIG IN THE SOUTH DOWNS

After dinner, head to The Pig in the South Downs for a nightcap. This charming country house hotel celebrates local producers and suppliers, reflected in their 25-mile food menu and wine list featuring renowned local vineyards such as Wiston Estate, Digby, Bolney, Bluebell Vineyards, and Artelium. The Pig also has its own small but perfectly formed vineyard planted with Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier. After their first harvest, due 2023, they’ll offer a unique grape-to-glass ethos. Stay overnight in one of the cosy Field or Garden Wagons to glimpse a view of the vines.

Photos: Ed Schofield

These wildflower-flecked hills and streets of Sussex stone could only belong to one corner of the world.

SATURDAY MORNING

VINEYARD TOUR AND TASTING AT STOPHAM VINEYARD

English still wines are worth getting excited about, and Stopham produces some of the most gleaming examples. Join the weekend tours led by winemakers Simon, Tom, or vineyard manager Adderley. When Simon first took over the site it was all but barren, ‘just rabbits and ragwort,’ he explains. But he knew that vines would love the free-draining sandy soil. A tasting of their Pinot Blanc 2018, brimming with sweet pea and green apple notes, pairs beautifully with whitebait from the White Hart, the pub at the bottom of the vineyard, and last stop on their tour.

SATURDAY AFTERNOON DIP, DINNER, AND STAY AT THE SPREAD EAGLE, MIDHURST

Revive after the morning’s tasting with an afternoon dip, followed by dinner and a stay at one of England’s oldest coaching inns. The Spread Eagle, with foundations dating back to the 15th century, offers a rich sense of history — Oliver Cromwell, Guy Fawkes, and even Queen Elizabeth I, are said to have passed through these doors. With original stained glass windows and ancient (and uneven) timber roofs, the history can be felt, but modern touches are found in the form of the serene pool and spa. The Spread Eagle has been proudly supporting local wine producers for over three decades, including English and Sussex wines. Recline on the terrace with a glass of Ashling Park or Ridgeview sparkling wines and settle in to hear the evening’s concert of church bells and bird song. This weary city-dweller didn’t want to leave.

SUNDAY COWDRAY ESTATE CAFFEINE FIX

Rise and shine with an early morning exploration of the historic Cowdray Estate, marked by the distinctive buttercup hues painted on the doors of the surrounding stone cottages. Follow the yellow to Cowdray Farm Shop & Café for a breakfast of seasonal delights and a coffee to fuel your journey to the next vineyard.

SUNDAY VINEYARD TOUR, TASTING, AND LUNCH AT KINSBROOK

After your caffeine fix, head to Kinsbrook Vineyard. With vineyards planted from 2017 to 2022, this newcomer embraces wine as a lifestyle through their boutique vineyard and on-site farm shop, café and butchery. Take a relaxed ramble through the sustainable vineyard and wildflower meadows during the 11am tour. Alongside their flagship ‘Kin’ wines, are the newly launched ‘Kith’ experimental, ‘mischievous’ label. Sample the ‘chough au vin’, a fun, Beaujolais Nouveau-style red made from Rondo grapes, a delicious fruit bomb, all sour cherry and blackcurrant, and utterly delicious when served chilled — preferably from the farmhouse terrace overlooking the vineyard, and with a spot of farm-to-table lunch.

New British Wine is published by Hoxton Mini Press and available via all good booksellers.

The Spread Eagle has been proudly supporting local wine producers for over three decades.

TWO DAYS IN ARUNDEL

Picturesque Arundel rises from the landscape like something out of a storybook. But far from a relic of another time, today this vibrant market town weaves its own tale; moving to the beat of a new wave of makers, artists and independent businesses which spill out of the historic centre and down the River Arun to the seaside town of Littlehampton.

Food and drink

In the heart of the old town, the relatively new Juniper has fast become one of Arundel’s hottest spots for fresh local food and great coffee, thanks to its top quality produce, Instagrammy interiors and ‘good things, simply done’ ethos. It’s open early each morning with freshly baked pastries, breakfast, lunch, and the occasional dinner evening.

On the antiques-filled Tarrant Street, dive into Tarrant Street Espresso for an excellent coffee made with precision and care. If you can nab a seat by the window, even better. For seasonal fine-dining, seek out

The Parsons Table, a chic and

cosy restaurant tucked away down a side street in the centre of town. Or if you’re feeling particularly carnivorous after a hearty day’s exploring, head to The Steakist for good meat cooked well, along with a few excellent non-meat dishes too.

Across the river from the historic centre, the bustling Brewhouse Project is home to the Arundel Brewery taproom and an independent hub of food, drink, beer and music. Look out for local florist Dave and grab a bouquet of his bespoke, sustainable Beachtown Blooms.

A mere 15-minute drive from Arundel, the picturesque Wiston Estate Winery is

renowned as one of the best vineyards in the UK, and a leader in Sussex wine. Visit for vineyard tours, wine tastings, walks through the rolling landscape, fine-dining in the excellent Chalk restaurant and overnight accommodation. Breathtaking walks await nearby at the ancient Cissbury Ring: the largest hillfort in Sussex with a history stretching back 5,000 years.

Follow the river

If the sea air is calling, then a riverside walk from Arundel to Littlehampton offers an idyllic route down to the coast on a dry day. Once you arrive at Littlehampton, continue

through to the seafront and reward yourself at the RIBA Award-winning East Beach Café, with its spectacular views of the sea and uncomplicated, high-quality food.

Art, antiques and local produce Arundel overflows with independent commercial art galleries and antiques shops, and it’s possible to spend an entire day (and an entire fortune) hopping between them. Independent art galleries Arundel Contemporary and the elegant Gallery 57 exhibit and promote contemporary British and international artists in thoughtfully-curated collections, while a visit to the impeccable Spencer Swaffer Antiques is a must for anybody with an appreciation of antiques and interiors. The gorgeous Parker’s Atelier is a modern concept store that seamlessly blends the old and the new in its curated collection of antique and contemporary homeware. At Digby Fine English, the UK’s first high street cellar door, you can taste a range of awardwinning English Sparkling wines without ever leaving town. And if you’re lucky enough to be in Arundel on the third Saturday of the month, then dive into the thriving Farmers’ Market, which attracts visitors from far and wide with its abundant showcase of top-quality local produce.

In the outrageously pretty village of Petworth (20 mins away), Newlands House Gallery opened in 2020 and has since become one of the UK’s leading small galleries — with high-profile exhibitions so far having included works by Pablo Picasso, Lee Miller and Frank Auerbach.

WHERE TO STAY NEAR ARUNDEL

THE PIG — IN THE SOUTH DOWNS

Restaurant with rooms where everything starts with the kitchen garden. thepighotel.com

WOODFIRE CAMPING

Relaxed gastro-campsite with breathtaking views and hearty food cooked over open fire. woodfire.co.uk

SEA CORNER

Holiday house for up to eight people, just 150m from East Preston beach near Littlehampton. cabinsandcastles.co.uk

BAILIFFSCOURT

Mediaeval coastal escape with rose gardens, spa and historic interiors. hshotels.co.uk

TINWOOD ESTATE

Luxury self-catering vineyard lodges with barrel sauna and private terraces. tinwoodestate.com

THE PUMP HOUSE AT WISTON ESTATE

Luxuriously renovated cottage with stunning views up to Chanctonbury Ring. wistonestate.com

Photos: Tayler J Forrester

GROW LOCAL

Grower, gardener and Sussex resident Claire Ratinon explores some of the imaginative garden projects bringing new life to the local landscape.

Aweside Farm

When Sinead and Adam moved down to East Sussex in early 2020, their intention was to set up an edible flower farm–but they were determined to create a space that would do more than merely serve their business plan. Alongside their organic flower growing business, they’ve planted over 5000 trees, established hedgerows, created ponds and diligently improved the soil’s health so that the surrounding ecosystem has become more enriched and enlivened with every year. Now in their fourth growing season, it is clear that Sinead and Adam’s deepening relationship with this patch of land is what has transformed it from an empty field into a thriving, beautiful and productive space filled with a rainbow of blooms and a biodiverse chaos of creatures.

Yet it’s not been all sweet nectar and fuzzy bumblebees. Their site is exposed to howling winds and is prone to flooding due to the field’s previous use (although this is improving as they nurture the soil). It’s taken steely determination to establish a smallholding on this patch and it’s their commitment that’s seen them win this year’s Soil Association Rising Star Award. Despite the challenges, the rare migrating butterflies that gather nectar as they

harvest, the hare they suspect of beheading their carnations and the mole who tunnels through their soil in search of earthworms, are all testament to how their regenerative growing efforts are the reason that this once-quiet place is now humming with life.

At the peak of the growing season, there’s a flower in every colour poised for harvest: from sunshine yellow calendula to warm blue cornflowers and nasturtiums with petals in the softest peach. Grown from seed or cuttings, all the blooms produced by Aweside are seasonal and organic. Whether you’re after a bunch of cut flowers or edible ones for decorating cakes, they’ve got every bloom you can think of and more — plus they’re now expanding into dried flowers to extend their offering beyond the sunny months. awesidefarm.co.uk

Great Dixter

Previously the family home of famed gardener and writer, Christopher Lloyd, Great Dixter features a number of distinct sections of planting that are worth exploring throughout the seasons. These gardens are an exemplary demonstration of how nature-centric approaches — such as delaying meadow cutting for the benefit of wildlife — can be part of how

we can grow for both beauty and biodiversity and that it’s possible to cultivate a vibrant and floriferous garden using minimal water.

One Garden Brighton

Nestled in the midst of Stanmer Estate, One Garden is a restored walled garden, cared for by the horticultural experts and students of Plumpton College. Each show garden has something to offer from showcasing the types of plant that would thrive in a shaded city garden to demonstrating what grows well in hot and dry conditions. Also worth a peek are the seeds on sale in their farm shop as they’ve been saved on site.

Sarah Raven’s Perch Hill

Beloved gardener and writer, Sarah Raven, opens her garden at Perch Hill to visitors a number of times throughout the growing season — and for anyone who is interested in growing their ornamental plants alongside similarly beautiful edible plants, it is an inspirational place. The many varieties of flower and crops in her plant catalogue are grown here so they have the stamp of approval of Sarah and her expert team.

Follow Claire at @claireratinon

Photo: Danny Fitzpatrick

Photo: Aweside’s own

WILDING

FROM WEALD TO WAVES

Holly Tuppen sits down with Isabella Tree to learn more about the Knepp Estate’s rewilding journey, the latest visitor attractions, and a new venture linking nature restoration across Sussex.

The Knepp Estate sits on a 3,500-acre patch of low weald near Horsham in West Sussex. After inheriting the estate from his grandparents in 1983, Charles Burrell soon realised that large-scale farming was impossible on low-lying clay land. So, in 2002 he and his wife, author and journalist Isabella Tree, embarked on what has become a pioneering rewilding project converting pasture into a patchwork of grasslands, scrub, groves, and towering oaks. Now home to storks, beavers, and nightingales, to name a few, Knepp’s ever-evolving experiment is open for all to enjoy. The Knepp Estate has been on an incredible journey from intensive farming to wildlife haven in 20 years.

Can you tell us a little about the wildlife seen at Knepp these days?

We’ve seen an astonishing amount of wildlife coming back of its own accord, including some of the rarest species in Britain, like the turtle dove, nightingale, purple emperor butterflies,

and many more. Last year we had a large tortoiseshell butterfly — thought to be extinct in the UK, it’s now breeding here. We’ve had peregrine falcons nesting in trees, which is almost unheard of. Just last week, we heard golden orioles. The British Trust for Ornithology did a study a few years ago, and they believe we have one of the densest breeding songbird populations in the UK. Ecologists keep telling us we can’t fit more life in Knepp, but every year something astonishing happens!

Over these 20 years, the rewilding movement has gained momentum across the UK and beyond. What excites you about what’s coming next?

Landscape connectivity is the next focus. Knepp is a hotspot for life, but how do we enable that life to spill out beyond our boundaries and into the broader landscape? We’ve got to start reconnecting landscapes and habitats and creating wildlife corridors across the country. It’s important not only for

Photos: Charlie Burrell

Knepp is a hotspot for life, but how do we enable that life to spill out beyond our boundaries and into the broader landscape?

all those species that cannot fly but also for birds, insects, and bats because they need to be able to migrate across areas with resources like food, water, and protection. That’s really what the Book of Wilding is all about; everyone can get involved. For starters, we need to create more wildlife areas and margins on farms of all sizes, clean our rivers, restore floodplains, and move away from artificial fertiliser and pesticides.

Connectivity is at the heart of the new Weald to Waves project. Could you tell us more about it?

Weald to Waves is led by our charitable arm, the Knepp Wildland Foundation. It stems from a dream to connect nature across larger landscapes. The idea is to get everyone from big landowners to small gardens involved in some way, from the woodlands of the High Weald to the restored kelp forests off the Sussex coast. Eventually, they’ll form a corridor of functioning habitats set aside for nature. James Baird, a significant farmer on the coast at Climping, is a driving force behind the project, and Ashdown Forest (about 22 miles east of Knepp) forms the starting point of the corridor — like Knepp, it’s an isolated biodiversity hotspot surrounded by intensive farming and potential development. It’s exciting to see so many people wanting to join in. The website went live in early May, and within two weeks, we had over 100 gardens signed up.

Looking beyond your boundaries, are there any other projects that particularly excite you regarding rewilding in Sussex?

I’m hugely inspired by the Help Our Kelp project restoring 200 square km2 of kelp forests in Sussex Bay. That’s something the region can be really proud of. Kayaking there recently with James Baird, we glided over tiny shoals of fish. We hope it means fish populations are reviving. One day it would be great to see Climping Beach, a protected nature reserve where seals

can come up to pup (sadly, they often get scared off by dogs). This is also an important landfall for migratory birds. It’s exciting to picture a wilder landscape where marine meets the land.

Continuing the theme of connectivity and the rewilding movement, how important is reconnecting ourselves with nature?

It’s hugely important. We have the Natural History GCSE coming out in 2025, and that’s brilliant, but you don’t get a connection from that. You’ve got to have a personal experience in a landscape and be moved by it. That’s what we hope to provide people with at Knepp; to feel life all around them and then go back to their usual landscapes wondering ‘where’s the birdsong, where are the insects?’ Of course, it’s a delicate balance. We have thousands of people visiting every year, and that’s wonderful, but we also need space for wildlife to recover undisturbed. It’s why the connectivity of landscapes is so essential. Once we have a wilder landscape, we can be freer about where we go.

It’s easy to feel overwhelmed by the biodiversity and climate crisis, but your new book, The Book of Wilding, provides practical advice and hope. What are your top tips? There is more land under private gardens than nature reserves in the UK, so the book highlights that rewilding is for everyone, not just large farms and big estates. Gardens can be incredible places for wildlife. We can start by ditching the pesticides and herbicides, creating ponds, letting wildflowers thrive. We can take a rewilding mindset by letting things get a bit messy and thinking about how natural processes work. Campaigning is also important; tell your council that you want more trees, wilder verges, and to go pesticide free. There’s also a whole chapter in the book on wilder cities; we’ll win or lose the battle on climate in cities, and plenty can be done, from micro-forests to green roofs.

Wilding Kitchen and Shop

Sustainable through and through, using repurposed materials, naturefriendly building practices, and green tech, Knepp’s new café and shop opened this summer in the estate’s lofty 18th-century barn. The courtyard café and restaurant serves produce from Knepp’s new two-acre organic kitchen garden and the estate’s Wild Range Meat, an offshoot from the conservation project. The adjacent shop will sell everything needed to get closer to nature, from identification kits and binoculars to Knepp’s Wild Range Meat.

Rewild your Garden Safari

Knepp has run wildlife safaris for years to get people closer to its myriad of ecosystems and creatures great and small. Hot on the heels of the restoration and rewilding of the estate’s walled garden (led by experts, including Tom Stuart-Smith and Jekka McVicar) and Isabella’s new book, this year, the estate is adding Rewild your Garden safaris to the summer calendar. Over three hours, guests will hear a presentation from one of the gardening team, understand the practicalities of the project and how it relates to their own space, explore the garden’s habitats with Knepp’s ecologist, and finish with brownies and tea.

Stay in The Dairy

One of the most popular experiences at Knepp is camping. Whether in a bring-your-own tent or yurt, there’s no better place to immerse in nature. However, for longer stays, the Knepp team recently refurbished two selfcatering nooks. The Bothy is hidden away in the oak woodlands, but newer still is The Dairy — a cosy one-bed converted cow barn in the heart of the working stables and rewilding project overlooking the wild swimming pond. The herringbone brick floor is made from reclaimed, traditional materials by an in-house stone mason, and all other furnishings are reclaimed or antique.

Wine expert, TV regular and Lewes resident Olly Smith talks us through some of the best still wines coming out of Sussex vineyards — and which foods to pair them with.

STILL SUSSEX

Sussex is a world wine hotspot. In fact, with our marginal climate, it’s more of a cool spot, with invigorating freshness and unique vitality imbued into every one of our grapes growing right on the northern boundary of the global vineyard. Our fizz has rightly become an icon of prestige for those in the know, with names such as Westwell, Breaky Bottom and Ambriel creating world class buzz from their bubbly.

I’m fascinated by our still wines, the silky splendour that opens the next chapter to build on our sparkling wines’ success. I’ve tasted reds

that give hope, rosé that dazzles, orange wines of intrigue and white wine to rival some of the true greats of Europe and beyond. The knowhow is established, the talent is renowned, the adventures into what our landscape is capable of is just beginning. It may take generations to finesse every last corner of the county and, while I may not be around to see it, the journey of what’s already in our hands offers the most enticing year-round possibilities to pair great local food with our splendid homegrown wine. Here are three Sussex white wines to match with delicious dishes.

The Sussex coastline is a yearround larder packed with Neptune’s bounty. From shellfish to the plump shoals, the grape variety that always works a charm with the salty freshness of seaside dishes is Bacchus. Bacchus, named after the god of wine, has become something of a speciality in the UK thanks to its shorter ripening season which suits our climate. As scented as elderflower and sharp as a gooseberry in a pencil sharpener, it’s a white wine with wide appeal, and whether you’re a fan of Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Grigio, Bacchus is your new best friend. From Sussex, a winery whose Bacchus I buy most years is Hoffmann & Rathbone thanks to its rich texture, divine refreshment and gently scented splendour.

Bacchus 2020 vintage (11.5%) is £24.50 hawkinsbros.co.uk (11.5%) is £120 for 6 bottles hoffmannandrathbone.co.uk

Without question one of the dreamiest pairings for a chicken tikka masala is Pinot Gris. With its lush texture and mellow round fruitiness, the spice in the recipe makes the wine feel fresher and it’s become a classic combo in the world of food and wine matching.

Pinot Gris grown right here in Sussex tends towards a brighter style with the aromatics of a succulent pear wreathed in lemon peel. One of my favourites is made at Oastbrook Estate and their 2022 has an exotic scent while still giving a diamondpure experience when you sip it. Paired alongside mild spicy dishes such as a prawn korma, herby salads or even creamy cheeses, the gentle aromatics can handle it. It’s a year-round treat and you should definitely book to visit the vineyard too, a magical place dedicated to sustaining nature.

Oastbrook Pinot Gris 2022 (12%) is £23 oastbrook.com

ROCKINGHORSE CHILDREN’S CHARITY rockinghorse.org.uk

Olly Smith is an ambassador for Rockinghorse Children’s Charity, supporting sick babies, children and young people throughout Sussex. He has kindly waived his fee for this feature in return for a donation to the charity.

While red wine may be most people’s first thought with a cheeseboard, choosing a white wine can let more of the range of flavours flourish. Sauvignon Blanc is awesome with goat’s cheese, Prosecco and Mozzarella is a thrilling contrast of textures and a mellow harmony of flavours, but perhaps my favourite of all is a cool glass of ripe Chardonnay with mature cheddar. Oxney Organic Estate are famed for their lush Chardonnay and the 2020 (12%) is £25 from oxyneyestate.com. The rich umami and salinity of the cheese is an absolute romp while sipping glossy Chardonnay — and thanks to some subtle and clever use of barrels, this wine has texture and moreishness that’s a million miles from that over-oaked 90s feeling of sipping a glass of sawdust. And the other great thing about serving white wine with a cheeseboard? It keeps your guests invigorated — they’ll be up dancing to Bronski Beat before you can say Smalltown Boy. Cheers!

Chardonnay (12%) is £25 oxyneyestate.com

SHELLFISH & BACCHUS

MILD SPICY DISHES & PINOT GRIS CHEESE & CHARDONNAY

EXPLORE SUSSEX MODERN

ART

ATTENBOROUGH CENTRE FOR THE CREATIVE ARTS (ACCA)

Interdisciplinary arts hub in a midcentury modern Grade II listed building near Brighton, with a programme of dance, theatre, live art, music, film, discussion and debate. attenboroughcentre.com

BRIGHTON MUSEUM & GALLERY

Located in the Royal Pavilion garden, this major museum brings together arts and history to tell stories about the city and the world we live in. brightonmuseums.org.uk

CHARLESTON

Home and studio of Bloomsbury group artists Vanessa Bell and Duncan Grant, with exhibitions, events and festivals. charleston.org.uk

CHICHESTER FESTIVAL

THEATRE

One of the UK’s flagship theatres, renowned for its exceptional productions and annual festival season from April to November. cft.org.uk

DE LA WARR PAVILION

Modernist cultural centre by the sea with exhibitions, live events and restaurant with sea views. dlwp.com

DITCHLING MUSEUM

OF ART & CRAFT

Small museum celebrating the work of Ditchling’s early-20th century artists and craftspeople alongside exciting new exhibitions. ditchlingmuseumartcraft.org.uk

LANDSCAPE

FARLEYS HOUSE & GALLERY

Museum home of photographer Lee Miller and Surrealist artist Roland Penrose, whose guests included Picasso, Man Ray and Miró. farleyshouseandgallery.co.uk

GLYNDEBOURNE

Globally celebrated opera house in Lewes, best known for its flagship summer season with picnics in the gardens. glyndebourne.com

HASTINGS CONTEMPORARY

Beachfront gallery championing modern and contemporary art. hastingscontemporary.org

LEWES DEPOT

Contemporary independent threescreen cinema and stylish caférestaurant with gardens and terrace. lewesdepot.org

NEWLANDS HOUSE GALLERY

Young gallery with world-class exhibitions celebrating modern and contemporary art. newlandshouse.gallery

PALLANT HOUSE GALLERY

One of Britain’s most distinctive modern art museums, telling the story of British art from 1900 to now through original exhibitions and a world-class collection. pallant.org.uk

TOWNER EASTBOURNE

Modern art gallery with cinema and restaurant, host of the Turner Prize 2023. townereastbourne.org.uk

WEST DEAN COLLEGE OF ARTS AND CONSERVATION

Arts and conservation college established by Surrealist patron and poet Edward James, whose influence can be felt throughout its public galleries and gardens. westdean.ac.uk

ASHDOWN FOREST

Norman deer-hunting forest, known the world over as Winnie the Pooh’s Hundred Acre Wood. ashdownforest.org

CISSBURY RING

The largest hillfort in Sussex, this 5000 year old vantage point has views across the sea to the Isle of Wight. nationaltrust.org.uk

DEVIL’S DYKE

Steeped in legend and nearly a mile long, the Dyke valley is the longest, deepest and widest ‘dry valley’ in the UK. nationaltrust.org.uk

FIRLE BEACON

Landmark hill above the village of Firle, with a Neolithic tomb, accessed by footpaths from the village. sevensisters.org.uk

LONG MAN OF WILMINGTON

Britain’s tallest chalk figure, best viewed on a walking route towards Windover Hill. sussexpast.co.uk

RYE HARBOUR NATURE RESERVE

A 465-hectare mosaic of coastal habitats, home to 4,500 species of plants and animals. sussexwildlifetrust.org.uk

SEVEN SISTERS AND FRISTON FOREST

Iconic chalk sea cliffs, grassland and meandering Cuckmere river valley, fringed by ancient woodland with bike trails and walking paths. sevensisters.org.uk

WINE

ALBOURNE ESTATE

Family-owned and run wine estate, with large tasting room and balcony bar with far-reaching South Downs views. Supper club events run through the summer. albourneestate.co.uk

AMBRIEL WINE

Producers of Traditional Method, English sparkling wines with tasting barn and spectacular South Downs views. ambrielsparkling.com

ARTELIUM WINE

Boutique wine estate with sunny terrace running art exhibitions alongside the vines. artelium.com

ASHLING PARK ESTATE

Chichester wine estate with restaurant, gin school and luxurious vineyard lodges. ashlingpark.co.uk

BLUEBELL VINEYARD

Relaxed producers of award-winning still and sparkling wines, on the edge of bluebell woods near a heritage railway. bluebellvineyard.org

BOLNEY WINE ESTATE

One of England’s first vineyards, with tours, events and balcony café overlooking the vines. bolneywineestate.com

DIGBY FINE ENGLISH

The UK’s first blending house, with shop and tasting room in Arundel. digby-fine-english.com

OASTBROOK ESTATE

Producers of acclaimed still and sparkling wines, offering wine tours and a range of boutique overnight accommodation at an idyllic riverside vineyard near Bodiam Castle. oastbrook.com

OXNEY ORGANIC ESTATE

Largest single-estate organic vineyard in the UK, with converted barns and self-catering cottages. oxneyestate.com

RATHFINNY WINE ESTATE

Magnificent wine estate overlooking the sea, with fine-dining restaurant, summer picnics, outdoor bar and boutique accommodation. rathfinnyestate.com

RIDGEVIEW WINE ESTATE

Family-run, English sparkling wine pioneers with large winery, terrace restaurant, tours and events ridgeview.co.uk

STOPHAM ESTATE

Aromatic still wine specialists with a sustainable focus, in a pretty mediaeval village. Runs weekend tours with the winemaker. stophamvineyard.co.uk

TILLINGHAM

Interesting, natural wines, farm-to-fork produce and old ways made new at a rustic-modern estate with restaurant, bar, pizza barn, glamping and rooms. tillingham.com

STAY

ASHLING PARK ESTATE

Stay overnight in a luxurious vineyard lodge, designed by Will Hardie of Channel 4’s Amazing Spaces. ashlingpark.co.uk

CABINS AND CASTLES

Handpicked collection of luxury cottages, cabins and unusual places to stay across Sussex. cabinsandcastles.co.uk

FLINT BARNS B&B

Stay in one of 10 beautifullyappointed bedrooms amongst the vineyards at the heart of Rathfinny Wine Estate. rathfinnyestate.com

OASTBROOK ESTATE

A choice of luxurious vineyard accommodation includes luxury bell tents, a lakeside lodge and playful ‘Vineyard Hollow’. oastbrook.com

OXNEY ORGANIC ESTATE

Snuggle down in a charming cottage, converted barns or cosy shepherd’s hut, surrounded by scenic vineyards and the rolling hills of the High Weald. oxneyestate.com

PETWORTH PLACES

A collection of self-catering and B&B heritage properties at the heart of historic Petworth. petworthplaces.com

PORT HOTEL

Cool, calm and contemporary boutique hotel with restaurant and bar on Eastbourne’s seafront. porthotel.co.uk

THE PIG IN THE SOUTH DOWNS

Contemporary country house hotel, kitchen garden and greenhouse restaurant with a variety of luxe accommodation. thepighotel.com/in-the-south-downs

TINWOOD ESTATE

Sparkling wine producers near Boxgrove Priory, with chic scandidesigned restaurant and lodges overlooking the vineyard. tinwoodestate.com

WISTON ESTATE

Traditional flint barns, fine-dining courtyard restaurant and overnight accommodation at a historic Sussex estate, known for its exceptional English sparkling wines. wistonestate.com

THE PUMP HOUSE

Charming and secluded vineyard cottage, at the foot of the South Downs on Wiston Estate. wistonestate.com

THE RELAIS COODEN BEACH

Bexhill beachfront hotel with midcentury design, restaurant and beach club.

therelaisretreats.com/coodenbeach

THE STAR, ALFRISTON

Converted 15th-century inn with stylish rooms and buzzy restaurant in a mediaeval village centre. thepolizzicollection.com/the-star

THE TACK BARN AT UPPER LODGE

Historic home with artists’ retreat and eco-holiday home in a converted woodland barn near Lewes. upperlodgesussex.com

TILLINGHAM

Choose from 11 delightful B&B rooms in a converted hop barn or — in summer — a luxury bell tent complete with king-size bed and cosy fire pit. tillingham.com

TINWOOD ESTATE

Luxury self-catering lodges with barrel sauna and private terraces overlook the vineyard and setting sun. tinwoodestate.com

WOODFIRE CAMPING

Sustainable gastro campsites in two rural South Downs locations — Westerlands and Firle. woodfire.co.uk

THE TROUBLE WITH DREAMS

Irish-born Sussex winemaker Dermot Sugrue is one of the most exciting names in English viticulture. Here, he shares his journey so far, plans for his family's new vineyard, and tips for starting out.

Hi Dermot. Can you tell us a bit about your journey so far? How did a boy from Ireland end up making wines in Sussex?

I started making beer when I was 15 growing up in Limerick, then wine when I was 16. It became my passion as a teenager, and I read voraciously on the subject, and became obsessed with wine and how to make it. I knew I wanted to be a winemaker when I was that young, I just didn’t know how to go about it. My first trip to Bordeaux changed all that, I was hooked. I did two vintages there in 2001 and 2002, and then realised what was happening in England, first in Suffolk and then Sussex when I started working with Nyetimber and studying at Plumpton. In 2006 I planted my first vineyard and I’ve been rooted here ever since.

Last year you left Wiston Estate after 16 incredible years, to concentrate on your own operation at Sugrue South Downs with wife Ana. How has the last year been for you both?

We knew it would be an extraordinary time for us both

after having been at Wiston for so long, however we could never have known so much would happen in such a short period of time. We invited Robin Hutson of The Pig Hotel group in as an investor, we expanded our vineyards under management from 3.5ha to now 11ha, we bought our first small vineyard and are now establishing our own winery, and Ana and I are having our first child! So it’s fair to say it's been a busy 10 months.

Then just last week we won three trophies at the Wine GB Awards, including ‘Best Boutique Producer’ for the third time. Our first release from our Coldharbour Vineyard, cuvée Boz 2015, planted on chalk in West Sussex which we now manage, won us the trophy for Best Blanc de Blancs, and we are incredibly proud of that.

How do Sugrue South Downs wines differ from the wines you were making at Wiston and, before then, Nyetimber? Is there a noticeable difference in terroir?

For me the terroir is everything. At Nyetimber I was focussed on making wines grown on greensand soils in West Sussex.

When I started making the wines at Wiston, the focus was all on chalk, which I adore. Both allow you to make fantastic wines, in different styles — the greensand showing more fruit and weight, the chalk giving more minerality and precision. Both have finesse and great ageing potential. The Sugrue wines celebrate both these terroirs in single vineyard, single terroir releases, as well as blending the two in some of the cuvées.

What are your short and long term plans for Sugrue South Downs? Will you be welcoming visitors soon?

We are renovating the barn at Bee Tree Vineyard, our new home at the foot of the South Downs near Wivelsfield Green. Once it has been transformed into a winery for this year, we will start inviting visitors. It will be very modest at first, very simple and functional. We want to get the facility right for winemaking first.

Your signature cuvée, The Trouble With Dreams, has amassed something of a cult following. Did you know you’d landed on something

special right from the start with this wine?

I knew the first Trouble With Dreams from 2009 was a good wine — my friends, family and myself drank most of it! The 2010 was given the highest ever score for an English wine by Decanter Magazine, and then the 2011 Trouble won the Decanter trophy for Best UK Sparkling Wine — beating 101 other English wines in the competition. I knew then I had something very special on my hands. After total crop failure in 2012 — it was officially the coldest, wettest and darkest summer since 1912 — in 2013 I started renting the magnificent Mount Harry Vineyard in East Sussex near Lewes. This is a pure chalk vineyard and adds extraordinary quality to Trouble, which has now evolved into a blend of chalk and greensand terroirs. It gets the best of both worlds, and always has a high barrel content in its vinification. Over the years the barrels I use are getting larger and older, to minimise the impart of the wood and promote as much mouthfeel and freshness as possible.

You’ve been called one of the most influential winemakers in Britain. For anybody wishing to follow in your footsteps, what qualities do you think makes a great winemaker?

Early on you must work with and learn from as many experienced winemakers as you can, and be hungry for knowledge. Winemaking is a craft — and an art — as well as a science, and there is no substitute for putting in the hours and to always be open to learning. You need to handle pressure — thankfully I do that very well — and be calm in a crisis, very often you are trying

to make order out of chaos. Most of all you need passion. For me, I have always found winemaking the single most compelling thing I could do with my life. I adore wine, I am endlessly fascinated by it, and I think that shows in my wines.

What do you think the next decade holds for the English wine industry?

Developing more styles, growing more diverse varieties, and adapting to climate change. The horrors of global warming gives the UK the undoubted benefit of warmer temperatures almost every year now — we can push the boundaries over the next decade (if we don't all get barbecued first). Still wines now have enormous potential, and my wife Ana is specialised in those. She is bringing her skills from California, New Zealand, Germany and Austria to winemaking in England — expect some very interesting releases over the next few years.

What’s some of the best advice you’ve ever been given?

Treat the wine like gold, I was once told. It’s a great way to operate in the winery. When you have exceptional quality in your tanks and barrels you must give it the utmost of respect all the time, to preserve and enhance its quality. Remember the wines we have on release at the moment are from 2015, 2016, 2017 and 2018. An unbelievable amount of time, effort, expense, energy and emotion have gone into making these wines. They are very special indeed, and deserve to be respected.

I have always found winemaking the single most compelling thing I could do with my life.

Buy Sugrue South Downs wines at sugruesouthdowns.com

Photo: Daniel Alford

Photo: Emma Croman