STILL SUSSEX

Sussex is a world wine hotspot. In fact, with our marginal climate, it’s more of a cool spot, with invigorating freshness and unique vitality imbued into every one of our grapes growing right on the northern boundary of the global vineyard. Our fizz has rightly become an icon of prestige for those in the know, with names such as Westwell, Breaky Bottom and Ambriel creating world class buzz from their bubbly.

I’m fascinated by our still wines, the silky splendour that opens the next chapter to build on our sparkling wines’ success. I’ve tasted reds that give hope, rosé that dazzles, orange wines of intrigue and white wine to rival some of the true greats of Europe and beyond. The knowhow is established, the talent is renowned, the adventures into what our landscape is capable of is just beginning. It may take generations to finesse every last corner of the county and, while I may not be around to see it, the journey of what’s already in our hands offers the most enticing year-round possibilities to pair great local food with our splendid homegrown wine. Here are three Sussex white wines to match with delicious dishes.

The Sussex coastline is a yearround larder packed with Neptune’s bounty. From shellfish to the plump shoals, the grape variety that always works a charm with the salty freshness of seaside dishes is Bacchus. Bacchus, named after the god of wine, has become something of a speciality in the UK thanks to its shorter ripening season which suits our climate. As scented as elderflower and sharp as a gooseberry in a pencil sharpener, it’s a white wine with wide appeal, and whether you’re a fan of Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Grigio, Bacchus is your new best friend. From Sussex, a winery whose Bacchus I buy most years is Hoffmann & Rathbone thanks to its rich texture, divine refreshment and gently scented splendour.

Bacchus 2020 vintage (11.5%) is £24.50 hawkinsbros.co.uk (11.5%) is £120 for 6 bottles hoffmannandrathbone.co.uk

Without question one of the dreamiest pairings for a chicken tikka masala is Pinot Gris. With its lush texture and mellow round fruitiness, the spice in the recipe makes the wine feel fresher and it’s become a classic combo in the world of food and wine matching.

Pinot Gris grown right here in Sussex tends towards a brighter style with the aromatics of a succulent pear wreathed in lemon peel. One of my favourites is made at Oastbrook Estate and their 2022 has an exotic scent while still giving a diamondpure experience when you sip it. Paired alongside mild spicy dishes such as a prawn korma, herby salads or even creamy cheeses, the gentle aromatics can handle it. It’s a year-round treat and you should definitely book to visit the vineyard too, a magical place dedicated to sustaining nature.

Oastbrook Pinot Gris 2022 (12%) is £23 oastbrook.com

ROCKINGHORSE CHILDREN’S CHARITY rockinghorse.org.uk

Olly Smith is an ambassador for Rockinghorse Children’s Charity, supporting sick babies, children and young people throughout Sussex. He has kindly waived his fee for this feature in return for a donation to the charity.

While red wine may be most people’s first thought with a cheeseboard, choosing a white wine can let more of the range of flavours flourish. Sauvignon Blanc is awesome with goat’s cheese, Prosecco and Mozzarella is a thrilling contrast of textures and a mellow harmony of flavours, but perhaps my favourite of all is a cool glass of ripe Chardonnay with mature cheddar. Oxney Organic Estate are famed for their lush Chardonnay and the 2020 (12%) is £25 from oxyneyestate.com. The rich umami and salinity of the cheese is an absolute romp while sipping glossy Chardonnay — and thanks to some subtle and clever use of barrels, this wine has texture and moreishness that’s a million miles from that over-oaked 90s feeling of sipping a glass of sawdust. And the other great thing about serving white wine with a cheeseboard? It keeps your guests invigorated — they’ll be up dancing to Bronski Beat before you can say Smalltown Boy. Cheers!

Chardonnay (12%) is £25 oxyneyestate.com