Our Wave issue #11

PRICELESS

Unidentified at Doheny Photo by Eddy Raposa

WOMEN ON WAVES Written by: Richelle Reed

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rowing up in Southern California, I spent a great deal of time at the beach. I have always loved playing in and around the ocean, as it has been a place of recreation, escape, wonder, amazement, and serenity for me. Although I have always been fascinated with surfing, it was never a sport that I considered was for me. Instead, I thought of surfing as a dangerous sport that I shouldn’t be interested in.

Surfing was something my boyfriend did—a boy’s sport—not something that a girl would be good at.

So, I resolved to sit on the shore and watch. It was not until I started surfing three years ago when I realized how many girls have entered the sport.

During this time, I realized that there are tons of girls out there in the water. I kept asking myself, “Why did I wait so long to learn how to surf?”

It ends up that I was not the only woman to feel this way. In recent years, women have entered traditionally male sports in huge numbers. Today, we see women golfers, basketball players, pool sharks, poker players, snowboarders, skateboarders, doctors, lawyers, CEO’s, etc. In response, women have experienced a shift in attitude from other male surfers and the public in general. Today, more than ever, women are dominating the line-up and making waves. Women are no longer relegated to the sand on their blankets, in their bikinis, and watching the boys. Instead, the num-

Photo by Eddy Raposa

bers show that close to 40% of surfers are female.

Surfing has become a sport that is attainable for women and girls of all ages. The experiences of our local surfers tell the story.

Teri Lynn has been dominating the line-up at HB Pier since she was just a grom. Teri started surfing in the early ‘80s when women were ridiculed for entering the sport of surfing. Although the attitude towards female surfers was aggressive and hostile, Teri learned to overcome such obstacles. She doesn’t take “No” from anyone—especially a guy. In our interview, I took a closer look at her experiences over the years. We can see how Teri, like other women, had to learn how to overcome such opposition in the line-up.

Who was in the water when you learned how to surf? Were there any girls?

All guys. Actually, I surfed on the surf team for Huntington Beach High School… and there were two other girls on the surf team besides me.

And out of all the teams that we surfed against, we had the most girls on our team.

What was the attitude towards the girls?

“Get out of the water.” That’s how it was.

I was getting deliberately snaked. People telling me, “Get out of the way,” “What are you doing out here,” “You’re wasting your time.” Basically, women in the water were like a nuisance to everybody else out there. That’s the way it was when I was surfing.

Continued on page 5

Soo Kim This photo of Soo originally ran in Our Wave’s last issue as unidentified.

Help Our Wave identify other unidentified surfers in this or previous issues of Our Wave. Selected "identified" surfers will appear on the cover just like this one. Don't forget to also check the other unidentified surfers in this issue to see if you can find you or your buddys' photos.

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Hi Eddy and Mark!

The girl in the bikini on page w w. Vol o u r3- Issue 3-Sept/Oct 2006 is me; 10win Soo Kim. Thanks for running that shot!

Now, I have proof of the great times I had in California. It’s goodbye Cali and aloha Hawaii!

To my surfer buddies at Bolsa, I’ll miss you guys and thanks for all the memories. To Big Daddy Stover in Waikiki, you rock my world!!!

Aloha, Soo Kim Long Beach, CA

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ook my family camping at San Elijo state beach and found a bunch of long time friends that have assembled every year for the past 14 years for their annual Surf Fest. These friends have grown into families and added more friends to their roster. Their growth is obvious because they have a general respect for making sure to have fun at all cost. Each year they have a ping pong tournament, a costumed surf contest, and dodge ball contest as well as the typical eating, drinking and regular camaraderie of a gather of such good friends dating back to high school and college. I heard that past events were rowdy but I found they have grown into respectful campers as they made sure that they were not too loud for me and the other families with young ones camping as well. The surf contest was a hoot to watch and I have to give it up to Grom Jeff West for his bravery to put on a costume and participate with the big boys.

Go to page 4 to see more photos.

Kamalehua Keohokapu Photos by Eddy Raposa

INSIDE ~ ~~~~~~~~ Matt Lucca Our Wave Fiction

p. 3

~ ~~~~ p. 4 saga of "Chick

T he continuing Hunter and the Lost Reef." Many thanks to Kevin Fisher (A.K.A. Ian D. Toube) and Nina Vafaie for the story submissions.

Photo by Gerry I. Santos

Jeff just turned seven in November, so he was six at the time. He is in the first grade at Plavan in Fountain Valley. He also loves to skim board and skateboard (typical So. Cal kid really). John (his dad) builds hot rods so Jeff is into that as well.

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nother unidentified surfer from the last issue on page 8 ridding the yellow board at the Surfer Joe contest in the Sept/Oct edition is Kamalehua Keohokapu. Thanks for the heads up Lisa Johnston.

Matt Lucca

Go to Page 15 for advertising Info.

~ ~~~~~ p. 5 ~~ p. 10 ~~~~~~~~ p. 12 ~ ~~~~~ p. 15

Readers Replies Our Wave Unidentified Surfer's Art Our Wave Info

O u r Wa v e Vo l . 3 - I s s u e # 4 - N O V / 2 0 0 6 - J A N / 2 0 0 7

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MATT LUCCA

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creasing mobility, Matt had right hip replacement. A day or so post surgery, complications arose, requiring a second emergency surgery. Matt suffered nerve damage and subsequently developed reflex sympathetic dystrophy, which caused chronic excruciating pain in his right leg and foot, prolonging his recovery approximately one year. It was touch and go as to whether Matt would walk normally again, let alone surf. It was a dark period in our family life, but with inspiration in the forms of Courtney and Trevor, the drive to surf again and with the help of a great physical therapist, Matt took charge of his rehabilitation and, aside from some numbness in the toes of his right foot, made a full recovery. Key to his recovery was acquisition of the aforementioned, red 10’ Boss. That beautiful board got him back into the water, where after mastering the longboard he is now able to perform like a kid again on a shortboard. You’d never know he’d undergone such a radical procedure from watching him surf.

Matt is an amazing soulful surfer, catching the eye of surfers and non-surfers alike with his graceful style. He’s an accomplished musician, still playing the drums for fun and on occasion for profit. He’s a dedicated father, the circle complete as now he is the one driving carloads of our kids and their friends to the beach, only better, because he understands the lure of the surf and knows that the “ocean’s not all the same.” Teaching me to surf is just one of many things for which I look to him with gratitude and am proud and fortunate to make this journey through life with him.

hen I walked into Michelangelo’s in Marina Pacifica on a Sunday afternoon some 24 years ago, I never thought that it would be the beginning of two beautiful relationships – one with surfing and the other with the cute drummer on stage. That’s where I met my husband, Matt Lucca. At that time, Matt could be found nights in local clubs playing with the Dynamite Gangbusters and days surfing the local breaks of Orange County. Matt was featured as one of Eddy’s unidentified with two shots in Vol. 3 Issue #3 Sept/Oct 2006 issue on pages 10 and 11 riding his MD quad. (see the Dawson ad on pg. 14) Matt grew up in Long Beach, going to Millikan High School with Tony Alvarado, Tim Whelan, Mark Appel, Chuck Kair and several other local surfers. It’s remarkable the number of guys who are all still close friends and have all surfed since high school. He graduated a semester early, leaving Long Beach with a couple of buddies for Santa Cruz under the guise of attending Santa Cruz Community College, making the trek in his Dodge Fury III loaded with his drum kit and surfboard.

From what I’ve heard they honed their surfing much more than their academic skills. Matt surfed challenging and chilling Steamer’s Lane, Pleasure Point and Ano Nuevo like he had lived there his entire life.

Matt started surfing at the age of 13, he and his friends finagling rides from older siblings, surfers and parents. Break options were dictated by the mode of transportation, with parents pronouncBy Robin Lucca (with thanks to Mark Appel, ing, “The ocean’s all the same, I’m dropping you here!” Like most of us, he started surfing at breaks Chuck Kair and Tony Alvarado) like Crabs, north and south sides of Seal Beach pier and Seal River, then on to more southern spots as transportation opportunities expanded. His first board was a cut-down Werdy 3 log contraption.

Not a conventional board, to say the least but like everything else, he commanded it with ease. He spent many a day surfing the cliffs with buddies, stoking their fires on Honey Buns, Hostess Pies and hot chocolate from Doll’s catering truck. He joined the Los Altos YMCA for their Ranch trip program and is one of the few people who have had the opportunity to drive-in and beach camp at the Hollister Ranch. With the freedom that comes from a driver’s license, Matt made State Beach his spot of choice throughout the 70’s and 80’s.

Matt has one of the most fluid and distinctive styles out there. When he’s up and riding, whether on his fish, quad or his favorite baby, his 10’ Boss, he rips with style and finesse. He can be seen on any given day, usually on his yellow Boss, which he acquired recently after his rack strap broke on the 405 on the way to San O, his red Boss, along with three other boards literally flying off the top of his Suburban. (Another story for another issue.)

Matt’s a fixture at Bolsa, fitting in weekday sessions between court appearances and clients.

Despite the never ending struggle between surf, academics and family, Matt obtained his law degree, passed the bar exam and currently runs a successful probate and estate planning practice in Long Beach. Although demanding, law gives him the flexibility to set his own schedule, surf often and thereby remain sane. Matt can often be seen out with our son, Trevor, already an accomplished competitive surfer at the age of 14.

Any vacation or travel plans are designed around surfing. Back in April of 1989, Matt flew down to La Paz to rendezvous with friends, Chuck Kair and Craig Morey. Chuck and Craig had been surfing and exploring Baja for the prior couple of months. They continued by auto north to Punta Quinejo, then back down toward Cabo and Todos Santos, camping and renting various lodging along the way. At one point in the trip they spied an empty right reef point break from way up on the highway. They took a dirt road down until it deadended at a dried riverbed. Craig decided that his 4wheel drive could make it down the arroyo which ended at the beach in front of the point. Craig was right, they did make it down the arroyo, but the 4wheel drive didn’t help them a bit once they hit the sand. Up to their fenders in sand, they dropped the tailgate and ended up camping and surfing the big long juicy rights. It wasn’t until the drinking water ran out about a week later that they were forced to dig the vehicle out and continue on their sojourn.

A couple of years ago Matt got a chance to go down to Costa Rica with Mike Dawson, of MD Surfboards with no more than two weeks notice.

After debating whether he should go or not, I told him that if he didn’t go, I would. Needless to say they had a great time, catching Avianas, Playa Negra, Playa Grande and Henry’s. I still haven’t had the pleasure. He’s surfed various breaks in Oahu and Kauai. The latter during a family vacation with our children, Trevor and Courtney, age 11. Where we leave our hearts every time we come back across the border though is Las Gaviotas, just below Rosarito Beach, BC. We’ve gone down there, usually in August, for the last six years.

In 1997, after years of increasing pain and dew w w. o u r w a v enewspaper.com

Go to Page 15 for advertising Info.

Written by Robin Lucca

Photos by Maggie Philotect

Photos by Eddy Raposa

O u r Wa v e Vo l . 3 - I s s u e # 4 - N O V / 2 0 0 6 - J A N / 2 0 0 7

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Fix that leaky roof. Call Mike Killeen Quality Roofing

Our Wave Fiction

Chick Hunter and the Lost Reef

Editor’s Note: This is the second part of the "Chick Hunter and the Lost Reef" story by Ian D. Toube. ick was stoked. Today’s session had been In a previous issue Ian had been invited to a seepic. It was barely noon and already he cret Reef off a Mexican island by surf legend Chick had put in several hours of intense surfing. Before Hunter. The catch was that he had to take Chick's he was fully out of the water, his stomach began to nephew, Nevik, and Nevik’s best friend Knat along gripe. It was time for some grub. Tim was already for the ride. out of the water and scarfing down some cold t was pushing dusk as Chick and Raj pizza and a quart of chocolate milk. After claiming walked toward my SUV. Raj appeared to his share of the pizza and downing two Pepsi’s, be in his early forties, with long curly hair, both he Rick spread himself out in the warm sand. Rick imagined he was a sea lion on a sandy beach. He and Chick were wearing shorts, t-shirts and sangrunted softly. He shifted around, feeling the sand dals. Raj gave us all a nod whereas Chick nodded with his whole body. Tim’s voice forced him to at Knat, patted his nephew on the head and shook my hand saying “Good to see you bro.” I said it retake human form.

“Dude, Fluid Drive is playing at the Del Mar back to him. My chest swelled in pride from hearing the legend call me bro. tonight; you going?”

Raj, who spoke in a very low and quiet voice, “Of course, Dorkface.” told everyone that it was too late in the day to head “Get bent.” out. He said that he had a place worked out for “Bite me.”

Having settled that matter, Rick relaxed us to eat and sleep. We all piled in my truck and back into the sand. The sun shone through his eye- Raj got in front so he could give me directions. We lids causing little pink dots to float on his retina. ended up at a small hotel which I later found out Some filtered into his head and swirled around was owned by his wife’s family.

The next morning as we went down to the with the rest of his thoughts. A huge wave crashed somewhere in the back of his mind. Fluid Drive….. lobby to check out, the desk clerk looked at Chick and said he was sorry, he didn’t know how the stoked…. huge waves…..

Rick and Tim sauntered into the small theater word got out that Chick was in town. As we left the that catered almost exclusively to the surf orientat- hotel the sidewalks and streets were jammed with ed crowd. The carpet was a tacky hot pink crawl- gorgeous young girls wearing thong bikinis.

Chick’s only endorsement deal is with a faing with a swirly gold design. On the walls were posters of the greats – Rabbit at Waimea, Shaun in mous sandal company which spotlight young the barrel at Pipeline, M.R. pulling off a seemingly women in thong swimsuits. Chick's only duty for this long time gig is to appear in their ads and to be impossible aerial at Bells.

After a quick stop at the snack bar, Rick and a talent scout for the models.

Apparently whenever the word gets out that Tim found some seats in the sixth row. Rick flicked Chick is in town all the models and the hot locals some popcorn at Tim. “Dumbass.” It was more of a statement than head down hoping to get a magazine shot with the company. This is Chick’s only gig so he felt coman insult. pelled to do what he is paid to do; he checked them “Hey, sshhhh. It’s starting.”

A light, offshore breeze caught Rick’s tan- out. Let me just say this, he is a lucky man and gled, sun bleached mess-for-hair and rippled the it was a pleasure to be in his company. Eddy, the curtains concealing the screen. The curtains part- pictures you could have taken.

We decided to have breakfast before we ed. The entire theater audience, as one collective headed out and we stopped at a small restaurant. group, let out a gasp of disbelief; coming right at them on the huge screen was the biggest, heaviest The place was obviously family owned as we were waited on by a young girl around 10 to 12 years wave ever!

Somewhere a voice yelled, “Go for it!” old. We enjoyed our meal and since I was going The first three rows scrambled for the take- off on this trip for free and feeling certain that the publishers of this fine newsletter would no doubt reimburse me for any expense I did occur, I picked up the tab and left a $10 tip on the table. As we all headed out, Knat said that he had left his hat at the restaurant and ran back to the table.

You can probably guess at what happened next. Yeah, Knat had picked up the tip money.

Chick who has been around the world a couple of dozen times was hip to that trick and greeted him position. Rows four through eight, Rick and Tim while he was on the way back to my truck. Chick included, hesitated. Should they go for it or scratch took the money away from Knat, gave it to the girl, over the top? Tim took the scratch option. Rick and told me to drive to the bus terminal.

Chick bought Knat a bus ticket back home. went for it. Rows nine through fifteen were clawChick looked hard at his nephew and said, “One ing at the seats in front of them in order to make it over the now feathering wave. Those unfortunate must flush out his house, unless one expects to be ones caught in the back of the theater saw their housing flushes”. Raj nodded his head Nivek said, “What?” dilemma and began diving under seats or bailing

R

I

Somewhere a voice yelled, “Go for it!”

out into the aisles. Rick caught the left and was shredding down the face of the huge wave. Roars and hoots could be heard from all over the theater as another celluloid wave formed on the outside.

Rick let out a howl from deep inside the barrel, while Tim hooted from the shoulder. A few late comers stood checking out the waves from the double doors at the back of the theater, doing their stretches and waxing their boards. Rick caught wave after celluloid wave, stringing together bottom turns, off-the-lips, and aerials….

Tim yelled from the line-up, “Dude, you ready?” His voice sounded closer than it had a minute ago.

“Ready? Huh? What?” Rick’s eyes opened slowly, sunlight scattering the pink dots.

“Second sesh man. Ready?”

Rick belched. “Yeah.”

Author's note: I was 13 when I wrote this story, attending Jr. High in the foothills of the San Gabriel Mountains.

I was rockin’ Ditto jeans and crimped hair and spent an inordinate amount of time sketching dream waves on my Peachee folders. I hadn’t yet learned to surf, but I read Surfer magazine religiously and plastered my locker with photos of Shaun Thomson, Ted Robinson, and Mark Richards. Although the brand of jeans and the names of surfers may have changed, I suspect we all still daydream of that perfect wave… w w w. o u r w a v enewspaper.com

Is my board done yet???

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you.”

Nivek replied, “Sure.”

Three waves later Chick was screaming down the face of a left and Nivek jumped him again. This time Chick went up high on the wave passing Nevik in a burst of speed and then cranked a hard cut back, going straight back at Nivek. It was Nevik’s turn to straighten out as Chick again went up high on the wave, hit the lip and headed left again. The man really is an amazing surfer.

“You’re just like crosstown traffic. It is so hard to get through to you. I don’t need to run over you, it would only slow me down.”

Nivek said, “Hendrix.” Well at least he got something right.

Chick glared at his nephew and said. “You are a thief, just like Knat. At least Knat stole something that can be replaced, a material thing, but you stole a moment that is gone forever.

Surfing is one of the purest things on earth. It brings together the ocean, the atmosphere where weather is formed and waves are created forming an energy that man rides on. You turned this beautiful cosmic moment into one of anger and mistrust. Do it again and you will be sitting at the bus station.”

Nivek looked like he was crying, but it was hard to tell , being in the water and all.

I figured that Chick did not need my input so I paddled back to the peak. I noticed Raj and a woman on the shore, getting ready to paddle out.

I turned around and saw a set starting to show on the horizon. I waited for the last wave of the set and decided to treat myself to my first left of the day. As I popped up and angled down its face the wave started feathering at the top. I hit the bottom and cranked a hard turn finishing off the turn about 1/3 of the way up the face. I tucked and the wave through out sending streaks of silver over my head.

I stuck my hand into its face and the wave drew me in as the silver became green with only a patch of a blue cylinder showing ahead. All of a sudden, she was there, the morning sand jogger with her hard body, and she was smiling at me. I ate my lunch getting sucked up and then over the falls.

I paddled back out to where Raj and the sand jogger were sitting. It really was her, there were no phones ringing anywhere.

Raj said, “This is my sister in-law Carmen, she lives near you down at Sunset.”

I said, “Hi Carmen. I’ve noticed you jogging in the morning at Bolsa.”

She smiled and said that she was wondering if I had.

Nirvana The next week was one that I’ll measure all joy with in the future. Total bliss. Nivek was on his best behavior, he still sits left of the peak but he only took the waves that were empty. If this attitude continues he might be welcome at 21 again.

The last day there the swell had died to nothing. I noticed a diving mask and snorkel in one of the sheds that were on the property. I wanted to check out the reef and swam out to the peak. The reef had a total flat top which formed the takeoff point. It than angled down in perfect geometrical forms on all sides. I dove the area for an hour before it finally hit me. The reef was a not a reef but an Aztec pyramid that had been swallowed by the ocean probably in some ancient earthquake. That is why the waves had such a A frame look to them.

Hopefully National Geographic won’t hear of this and start banging on my door…

Raj, speaking so quietly he had to say it twice said “Dylan.” I nodded my head.

Nevik said, “yuh?

Chick replied, “Unless you want to be housing a thief, and worse a person who would steal from a person who clearly needs the money, then you have to get rid of them, flush them out of your life. There are people that are black holes; you have to sort who they are and dump them, before their karma becomes your reality. One of the true basic indicators of a person is the company they keep and the friends that they have.

We finally made it to the airport and true to his word, Chick searched Nivek and myself for global positioning system, cell phones and cameras. Believe me if I had a camera it would have been out during the talent hunt at the hotel. After blindfolding us, the airplane took off.

We were in the air for about two hours. We landed on a dirt landing strip, which was within walking distance to a modest house that was built facing a bay. The bay had a width of about ¾ of a mile and smack in the middle of the bay was a wave peeling off perfectly in both directions.

The swell was running a solid 8-10 feet and when it hit the reef it stood up and then peeled off, more like two point breaks then any reef I had ever seen before. There was nobody out.

Raj spoke and since we had gotten used to it we all tuned in our ears and tuned out all distractions to hear him say, “ I am going to go check on my wife and her sister, but the peak is fairly tide sensitive so you should go out as soon as possible.”

He got no arguments with that statement.

Nivek just grabbed his board and hit it wearing the shorts he had worn for the past two days. I was a little stiff from the plane ride and joined Chick in some stretching before heading out.

The set up was that there was a takeoff point about 10 yards wide and after you made the drop you could choose whether to go frontside or backside. It made no difference as the wave would jack and throw out with a hollow section in either direction. Then the wave would mellow into a carveable face that was good for multiple turns and cutbacks.

Chick and myself set up at the peak, Nivek set up down the line to the left after the hollow section. Knowing Nevik, like I do, I smelled trouble.

Anyone that has ever surfed with me knows that I go left more times than Jane Fonda, but with an empty peak in either direction and Nevik lurking in the left direction and not wanting to yell at him in front of his Uncle, I decided that it was time to work on my backside. The takeoff point was wide enough that I found myself paddling for the same wave, going in different directions, with the surf legend Chick Hunter.

Paddling back out after my fifth wave, I saw the inevitable happen. Chick had caught a large set wave and after emerging from the tube he hit the lip with his patented vertical move, screamed back down the face and cranked a bottom turn that he had to straighten out from to avoid his nephew, Editor's note: who had dropped in ahead of him.

You can find the complete story beginning Chick paddled up to his nephew and said, “Nivek, you need to look before you go, I almost hit to end on line at www.ourwavenewspaper.com.

Photo by Gerry I. Santos

Surf Fest costume surf contest excitement: Headless Horseman looking to take the head of the surf donkey for his own.

Go to Page 15 for advertising Info.

w w w. o u r w a v e n e w s p a p e r. c o m Your car can’t make it to the beach?

WOMEN ON WAVES Continued from page 1

Can you think of any experiences when you were treated differently because you were a girl?

Guys always stare. And when you first come up being a female, they’re like, “Oh, gosh, here’s some lame chick that’s just going to be in the way.” At least that’s the vibe I feel in the water.

But once you take off on a wave and you can surf, when you paddle back out, the attitude has definitely changed. There’s like a little bit of respect.

Do you think that people are treated differently because of gender or how well you surf?

Probably both, but mostly now about how well you surf. If you suck, people are generally going to snake all your waves, give you a lot of attitude, and tell you to get out of the water. I think there’s definitely some localism still.

How has it changed over time?

Now there are more women out there—not that they are any good—but there are a lot more girls in the water and it’s generally more accepted. Surf companies have definitely jumped in to help popularize the sport for women. As far as the

attitudes go, I learned early on to just ignore the people around me because I got so much grief for being a girl in the water. So, I just put my blinders on, paddle out, and try not to snake anybody. Over time, I realized that I could play that, “Oops! I’m stupid” card and shred up a wave in front of them.

“Oh, I’m sorry. I didn’t even see you there. I’m just a stupid girl surfer, because I don’t know.”

Tell me—you were on the Huntington High School surf team; right?

Yeah, and I surfed in a lot of contests then.

In high school, we surfed NSSA and because there were only three girls, I placed either first, second, or third. After high school, I didn’t surf in contests for a long time. Just two years ago, I surfed a contest in Costa Rica. I got third, so that was really cool, especially after not being in the system for so long. And it was actually a big day—it was like way over head and there was a really big current.

Where is women’s surfing headed for the future?

I think that we’ll be surfing the polar icecaps on Mars. (Laughs.) Women’s surfing will be just more and more popular, maybe equal with men.

And it won’t be an insult to say, “You surf like a girl.” It will be a good thing. Women surfers will be seen as strong but, yet, sexy, too.

S

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o what is happening to women’s surfing?

Will the local surf culture accept those of us who previously did not fit in to the stereotypical male crowd with no fear and big attitudes? Or will women remain outcasts in the line-up? As we have already seen, the numbers of female surfers have increased dramatically in recent years and companies are making bank off of the surfer girl theme. And if you simply compare the numbers of girls on the HBHS surf team from Teri’s years until today, there’s 12 times the number of girls participating in the sport. Today, out of 126 HBHS surf team members, 36 of them are girls. When it comes down to it, gender and sports bring about complicated issues worthy of examination.

For a long time, surfing has been a boy’s club. Women like Teri show us that we have to be willing to stand up and enter a typically male sport for our own enjoyment of the sport and culture.

The heavyweight of patriarchy is being washed away with the tide as strong images of female surfers encourage a new generations of surfers.

Hopefully, these girls will learn how to face obstacles and challenge traditional gender roles in sports by simply continuing to surf.

Only time will tell what happens to women’s surfing.

Photos by Eddie Raposa

READERS REPLIES

Continued from page 1 Dear Editors, I was thrilled to see Kathleen Smith's and my article printed, but I was so bummed to see my name missing from the byline. In the next issue, could you please put a note in your corrections that my name was missing from the article. I love surfing and would really like to use the article in my portfolio.

Thanks, Eda Obey Eda, Thank you Eda for the email regarding the error. I hate missing stuff like that and I am very sorry I did not read into Kathleen's email (see below). I will make sure the correction is added to our next issue that will be out first week of Dec. By the way, how did you do on the paper as far as a grade. I might run this correspondence in the next issue to give students the idea to send in assignments for contributions. That way you will get your mention and a little more. Thanks again for the great work.

Also, since the article, some parents wanted to know how to get ahold of some coaches to send their kids to advance their skills or learn about competition. Could you send a message along to see if the coach mentioned would be interested in giving out contact info.

Kind regards, Mark Lugenbuehl

Teri Lynn

Dear Mark, Bill Sharp manages the Huntington Sport and Surf in the new shopping center off of Beach St. near the 405. His email is bill@hsssurf.com. We made an A for getting it published. It is a good idea for students to bulk out their portfolio with published pieces, and local stories sell well. Thanks.

Best, Eda

Unidentified at Doheny

Photos by Eddie Raposa

Its no secret that Tina Nguyen has been logging lots of water time near the secret spot.

Photo by Eddie Raposa

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Photos by Eddy Raposa

Erspamer on a Bolsa Bomber Photos by Eddy Raposa

Guy Takayama

Hand Thrown.

Stone Cooked.

Made to Order

Authentic New York Pizza Any Two Slices and a Drink - $5.50 ! 3LICE OF .EW 9ORK 0IZZA " -AIN 3TREET 3EAL "EACH w w w. o u r w a v enewspaper.com

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Is my board done yet???

Page

Photos by Eddy Raposa

Tony Alvarado in an avocado green bowl Photo by Eddy Raposa

Mike Gurrero. My favorite surfer to watch. -ER

L

S U R F E RS E P I C SHO T S

AL OC

SURF PHOTOGRAPHER FOR HIRE $35.00 per hour (2 hour minimum).

Price includes two 8x10 photos and a CD of all photos from your session.

You can have pictures made into any size you choose.

Can’t afford it? Get a friend or two and split the cost.

Call Eddy @ 562-493-4849.

Pray for surf, for great pictures, pray for sun.

Merry Christmas

Belmont Shore’s Original Coffee House 4606 E. Second St. 433-2996 www.pollys.com

MARK.OURWAVE@VERIZON.NET

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Did you find yourself or your buddy in this paper listed as unidentified?

We’ll run it again with the name. Go to w w w. o u r w a v e n e w s p a p e r. c o m

Photos by Eddy Raposa

Team Harbour's Tres Focht

Photos by Eddy Raposa

Grant Nakata w w w. o u r w a v enewspaper.com

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Did you find yourself or your buddy in this paper listed as unidentified?

We’ll run it again with the name. Go to w w w. o u r w a v e n e w s p a p e r. c o m

Eddy's Unidentified

Photos by Eddy Raposa

Photos by Eddy Raposa

Bolsa Chica

Huntington Cliffs

Please identify these surfers. We would love to know more about them and put their stories and photos on the cover. w w w. o u r w a v enewspaper.com

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E-mail mark.ourwave@verizon.net

Is my board done yet???

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Page 11

Photos by Eddy Raposa

Bolsa Chica Photo by Eddy Raposa

Please help us identify these surfers so we can give them the proper credit. Write in so we can know more about who they are, what they like, or just to share some stoke. E-mail mark.ourwave@verizon.net

Laurie Craig Broker Associate

(562) 493-2098

surfinsb@lauriecraig.com

“She Gets Homes Sold!”

Own Your Dream.

DEALERS

WANTED

Liberia Tamarindo Marabella Nosara

San Jose

Titled Land in Costa Rica Costa Rica is located on the Central American Isthmus, flanked by the Pacific Ocean and Caribbean Sea. Comprising 20,480 square miles, Costa Rica is no larger than the state of Wet Virginia, yet contains 6% of the world’s biodiversity. The country is home to over 1,000 species of birds and 1,013 varieties of fresh and salt water fish.

Recognized as a global leader on environmental issues, Costa Rica has designated 27% of its land mass as protected areas for national parks and reserves.

As the “Switzerland of Central America,” Costa Rica places a high priority on education and democracy. In 1949, the government abolished the army, allocating all impending military expenditures to education and health care. Consequently, the country boasts a 95% literacy rate and continues to be one of the highest in the world.

A strong contender in world markets, Costa Rica features international ports on both of its coasts, all modes of transportation services, an advanced infrastructure, and a strategic location at the crossroads of two continents. Because the government strongly supports new business ventures with excellent incentives, a growing number of multinational corporations have been drawn to the country. Costa Rica’s natural beauty attracts over one million visitors annually. Nine active volcanoes, forests, wetlands, lakes, island reserves and 600 miles of beaches on two coasts account for a substantial increase in tourism over the last decade.

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Direct flights to Costa Rica are available daily via most major international airports. The world’s leading car rental agencies are all on hand to serve your transportation needs, as well as scheduled commuter flights for in-country travel and excellent private shuttle services.

Credit cards are widely accepted with ATM outlets becoming commonplace throughout the country.

Whether your interest is business or pleasure, you’ll find that Costa Rica offers unparalleled beauty and friendly people with an invigorating blend of local and foreign cultures that truly make it the jewel of Central America.

Jeff Allen, owner and developer of Costa Ricas Properties has been a full-time resident of Costa Rica since 2002. As an on location, top-notch contractor, Jeff will oversee your project from concept to completion, giving you peace of mind as your dream home becomes a reality. In addition, Jeff has built brand-new homes available for sale and immediate occupancy.

Ecological Aspects: Costa Rica has made a concerted effort to preserve its environmental riches and beauty by instituting various policies and programs. Numerous conservation efforts are promoted and enforced, including reforestation, ecological studies, trail creation, botanical research and agricultural projects, as well as the establishment of various biological reserves and wildlife refuges.

At Marbella, we work in harmony with the natural resources of the land, conserving the flora, fauna and wild life. Therefore, we prohibit cutting large trees, as well as shooting deer. We also protect the creeks and the surrounding countryside—offering you a splendid and organic environment to enrich your experience to its fullest potential.

Posada del Sol • Mountain Views $70,000 • Ocean Views $120,000 Owner Financing Available all

1.25 acre lots include roads, water and electricity

walking distance to black sand beaches & excellent surf

Raw land available Check for Pricing

Playa Negra Lots for sale minutes from beach. Inquire on pricing all sale prices subject to change

contact: Chris Jones 760 685 3749 mobile • 760 643 9401 home email: chrisjonescr@aol.com www.costaricasproperties.com

Go to Page 15 for advertising Info.

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Do your part and help get trash in the trash can.

Keep our beaches clean!

Surfers Art

w w w. o u r w a v e n e w s p a p e r. c o m featured artist:

Jeff Beck

ARTIST STATEMENT Southern California inspires me to paint. A landscape defined by change and relentless progress, yet still relatively unmoved in character. Sprawling evidence of human existence cannot hide the fact that this land is still the wild west. I find this place, and the unique collision between man and nature that defines it , to be quite beautiful. Formal qualities, like the simple color harmony between the sky and land, the wide open nature of this landscape contrasted with the structures in it, or a grid of crisscrossing roads receding to the horizon appeal to me. A feeling of incongruity, encroachment, and awkward juxtapositions between man and his surroundings, the obliteration of the past and cultivation present, permeate this place and reveal the hidden narratives that abound.

BIOGRAPHY Jeff Beck’s paintings have been exhibited in several galleries in and around the Los Angeles area, including Gallery deSoto in Los Angeles, the Gatov Gallery at California State University in Long Beach, the Cerritos College Gallery in Norwalk, and the Golden West College Gallery in Huntington Beach.

He is currently represented by deSoto in Los Angeles.

His work is also in numerous private colections as well as the corporate collections of Fugue Magazine and Getty Images, both in Los Angeles.

Mr. Beck has also been the recipient of the 2001 Florence Arnold scholarship award as well as having work selected for exhibition in the California State University Chancellor’s Office in Long Beach.

Jeff Beck was born in Huntington Beach, CA in 1975.

He received his M.F.A. from California State University Long Beach.

Beside being an accomplish painter, Jeff's artistic abilities even allows him the gift to build himself a fine quiver of hand crafted wooden surfboards. The first time I saw Jeff carrying out his fish to the surf, I asked him, "Does that thing float you?" He replied emphatically, "Sure and it surfs great." The board(s) is beautiful and he surfs them just as beautifully.

6'0" egg

6'6" singlefin

5'8" fish

5'11" thruster

6'0" twinfin

Jeff BEck Photo by Robin Hoyland

All paintings above are oil on panel.

Paintings right to left: Surburban Gothic 48"x 48" Kylie's House 71" x 47" Trailer Park 48" x 41"

Jeff's gallery can be found at: The Higgins Building 108 West Second St., Suite 104 L.A. Open Tuesday - Friday ph. (323) 253-2255 gallerydesoto.com To read more about the surfboards go to www.ourwavenewspaper.com

1500 PCH SEAL BEACH

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Keep Our Wave rolling

Advertise in Our Wave.

Call for pricing

(562) (562)

493-4849 858-2577

HUNTINGTON SURF AND SPORT JACKS KANVAS BY KATIN BRUCE JONES HARBOUR CJ BOARDING HOUSE

WANTED Visit WWW.OURWAVENEWSPAPER.COM for pricing, sizes and specs

HIGHLY MOTIVATED SALES PERSON TO HELP TAKE THE VISON TO THE NEXT LEVEL.

IS THIS YOU? GIVE US A CALL TO FiND OUT HOW WE CAN HELP EACH OTHER. (562) 493-4849

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Page 1 4 Photo by Eddy Raposa

Photo by Eddy Raposa

Dave Lane

www.neuralsurfer.com

Shin Yamasaki Photo by Eddy Raposa

Milliken High School surf coach, Mark Woelm

Old School & New School come together with progressive shapes.

Photo by Eddy Raposa

Ariel Pe

Custom Surfboards All H a n d c r a f t e d by

M ike D awson

(562) 498-0821 NEW DESIGN

Matt Lucca putting the Fusion to the test.

THE

Longbaords Shortboards Retros Hybrids Fish

Custom made from 6’0” to 10’0”

Available @

Photo by Eddy Raposa

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mdsurfboards@aol.com

Is my board done yet???

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ATTENTION READERS!

PSI Certified Pet Sitter

FREE

In-home pet care, dog walking, pet taxi and more.

MaryEllen Hobbs 562-716-6544

CLASSIFIEDS

mehobbs36@charter.net Business License # 002064949

Bonded and insured

OUR WAVE CONTENT CONTRIBUTION DISCLAIMER.

Contributions are welcomed by Our Wave. All contributions shall remain the exclusive property of the author/contributor. Author/contributor shall retain all rights pertaining to said submission for publication. Our Wave shall not be liable or responsible for any claims or damages of any nature whatsoever, arising from publication of said submitted contributions for publication.

OUR WAVE ADVERTISEMENT DISCLAIMER

We at Our Wave have made every reasonable effort to ensure that our business advertisers are reputable, honest, and trustworthy; and that the content of such advertisement is accurate. However, unless otherwise indicated, Our Wave, and or its subsidiaries, affiliates, or assigns are protected, without limitation from any and all liability pertaining to public utilization of advertised services as contained in said publication.

Our Wave makes no representations or warranties with respect to advertisers and the services and or products referenced therein. Our Wave and its employees, agents, suppliers, and contractors shall in no event be liable for any claims, charges, contractor's damages, liabilities, losses, and or expenses of whatever nature, and howsoever arising, including without limitation any compensatory, incidental, direct, indirect, special, punitive, or consequential damages, loss of income or profit, loss of or damage to property, claims of third parties, or other losses of any kind of character.

Keep Our Wave rolling

Advertise in Our Wave.

Call for pricing

(562) (562)

493-4849 858-2577

MARK.OURWAVE@VERIZON.NET

Ocean Conditions

This paper is FREE .

We distribute 10,000 copies every few months to the areas of Long Beach through Newport Beach.

Editors: Mark Lugenbuehl and Eddy Raposa Photography: Eddy Raposa Graphic design: Mark Lugenbuehl Editing support: Nina Vafaie

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Eddy Raposa (562) 493-4849 e d d y. o u r w a v e @ v e r i z o n . n e t Mark Lugenbuehl

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O u r Wa v e N e w s p a p e r for advertising inquiries, contact:

(562) 858-2577

mark.ourwave@verizon.net

N i n a Va f a i e

(562) 596-9065

nvafaie@hotmail.com

Brandy Sullivan

(714)227-3918

guitaraccess@yahoo.com

Eddy crowded choppy blownout glassy

offshore cold shallow deep foggy

Stoke out your friends or buy one for yourself.

You can purchase any of the pages from this or some of our past issues in a nice highresolution 13" x 18" glossy print. Give us a call

Visit WWW.OURWAVENEWSPAPER.COM for pricing, sizes and specs

w w w. o u r w a v enewspaper.com

FOR SURFBOARD SALES!!!

at 562-858-2577

or

e-mail mark.ourwave@veriozn.net

Call 562-858-2577 or 562- 493-4849 for pricing

onshore riptide redtide currents thermoclines undertow high tide low tide spring tide neap tide polluted condition black

Please keep it short and sweet.

E-mail your surfboard classified to: mark.ourwave@verizon.net

Boards for sale 9’6” Harbour Banana Clark Foam. In great shape. $750 - Call Mark 562-858-2577 9’6” EC Longboard single fin-classic noserider. wide square tail. Dark blue gloss tint. nice looking board. 562-858-2577

Services

DING REPAIR, serving Huntington/Seal Beach area.

30 yrs exp call 562-926-2108 or e-mail murph1061@netzero.net Full Maintenance Gardening Service Call Frank @ 526-858-9347 Day Care Long Beach Little Stars Day Care Immediate Opening License #198006707 CPR Certified Jennifer Perez 562 498 4560

Wanted HOTWHEELS 1967-1977 CASH PAID - Top $ for cars in mint condition. One car or whole collections Mike (562)708-9069 Your ads, classifieds, stories and artwork in Our Wave Newspaper.

Call 562-493-4849 or e-mail mark.ourwave@verizon.net

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