SUNS HOCKEY | BOULDER MOUNTAIN TOUR | CULINARY INSTITUTE | POEMS BY SCOTT GLENN
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contents // features
56
A WILD AND REMOTE LANDSCAPE The passage of time on a river in Patagonia
COURTESY PRG / ISSIAS MICIU NICOL AEVICI
BY L AURIE SAMMIS
64
FOR THE LOVE OF HOCKEY Now 45, the Sun Valley Suns have put ‘fun’ back in the game B Y H AY D E N S E D E R
70
The people and the impact of the Boulder Mountain Tour BY DICK DORWORTH
ON THE COVER
The Milky Way core behind Mount Heyburn and Grand Mogul peak, from the shores of Redfish Lake, Idaho. P H OTO BY T R AV I S A M I C K
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sunvalleymag.com | WINTER 2019-2020
Fishing the Rio Grande in January, deep within the Andes in Patagonia with Patagonia River Guides. PHOTO CREDITS
HISTORY, HEROES & HEROINES
contents // departments
28
Whistler Blackcomb, part of the Epic Pass
42
82 Scott and Carol Glenn
24 localbuzz
86
‘TALE OF TWO CITIES’ Sun Valley and Kitzbühel, bound
IT’S GOING TO BE AN EPIC WINTER Sun Valley rides the consolidation wave
34 body&soul
HEALING WITH OXYGEN
Winter wanderers
Hyperbaric oxygen therapy provides a treatment option for several conditions
FINDING A HAPPY PLACE Ketchum’s new ketamine clinic offers
76 inthearts
some a reprieve from depression
A PLAYDATE WITH ANNA SKIBSKA ‘Light Bearer and Shadow Player’
42 getoutthere
Actor Scott Glenn and the poet rising from within
WINTER WANDERING Camper van rentals extend the camping season
CAPTURING WINTER’S LIGHT Plein air artists brave cold to catch
LOOK UP
perfect moments
Ketchum’s dark skies offer great stargazing sights
TABLE FOR ONE Advice for solo female travelers
CLIMBING ON WATER
16
EASY WRITER
90 food&drink
RECIPE FOR FUTURE CHEFS
The sometimes miserable, always
The Sun Valley Culinary Institute
challenging, sport of ice climbing
to open its doors after the New Year
sunvalleymag.com | WINTER 2019-2020
Silas Thompson
also in this issue 20 FROM THE PUBLISHER 22 CONTRIBUTORS 30 CALENDAR OF EVENTS 38 FAVORITE FINDS 88 PERFORMING ARTS BUZZ 93 DINING LISTINGS 96 WHY WE LIVE HERE
WHISTLER BL ACKCOMB: COURTESY VAIL RESORTS / JOHN ENT WISTLE SCOT T AND CAROL GLENN : KIRSTEN SHULTZ
together from the beginning
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fromthepublisher // insight
publisher
20
sunvalleymag.com | WINTER 2019-2020
Laurie Sammis / editor-in-chief
PHOTO:
F IVE B
STUDIOS
A
s the snow comes down with absolute certainty, unfurling in solid sheets of silent white as we prepare this winter issue of Sun Valley Magazine for press, I am suddenly struck by the many shapes and forms of water. Snowflakes, falling like spun gold to our high mountain resort playground, form when an extremely cold droplet of water freezes on a dust particle in the sky, creating an ice crystal. Science tells us that water vapor freezes onto the primary crystal as it falls through various atmospheric conditions on its way to the ground, building new crystals—or the six arms of the snowflake, which are as unique and unrepeatable as the pieces of sky, temperature, conditions and different paths the snowflake follows from the sky to the ground. Imagine that a piece of dust can create something both as unique and valuable to our lifestyle here in the mountains, valleys, rivers, ponds, ice sheets, arenas, waterfalls and lakes in and around Sun Valley as a snow crystal. Here in the Wood River Valley, snow has shaped the slopes on which we recreate and even the unique bond we have developed with the Austrian resort of Kitzbühel (“Tale of Two Cities” by Dick Dorworth, page 24), a deep history that has been present since the first days of the resort in the late 1930s. Snow, and the ability to gauge the correct wax for the exact conditions, has also been critical to the 48 years of the running of the Boulder Mountain Tour, the 34-km Nordic ski race that was first run in 1973 as one of the country’s first distance races for crosscountry skiers (“History, Heroes and Heroines,” page 70). More stories of water, in all its forms, seem to be threading through the pages of this issue. Discover the community of ice climbers in Southern Idaho looking for frozen waterfalls and flows on which to practice their sport (“Climbing on Water,” page 54), or follow Jamie Hausman’s search for winter adventure from the back of her campervan (“Winter Wandering,” page 42), often in search of the healing waters of Idaho’s hot springs, which Bloomberg.com stated were the best in America in their Feb 28, 2019, article. And don’t miss the history of the Suns hockey team, members of the Black Diamond Hockey League (BDHL) and the second oldest senior elite team in the country, who slice through a frozen sheet of water with precision, speed and force (“For the Love of Hockey,” page 64). Read about the passage of time on a river of water, flowing in its crystal clear liquid form down from the Andes Mountains in Patagonia, which sit at the near exact southern equivalent latitude to Sun Valley (“A Wild and Remote Landscape,” page 56). Finally, make sure you step outside this winter and marvel at the thousands upon thousands of stars visible to the naked eye in the Central Idaho Dark Sky Reserve, America’s first gold-tier international dark sky reserve, the heart of which rests just north of Sun Valley (“Look Up,” page 46). And consider for a moment that stars twinkle because their light has to pass through several miles of the Earth’s atmosphere before reaching the eye of the beholder. In other words, as astronomer John A. Graham explained to Scientific American, it’s as if we are looking up at the universe from the bottom of a swimming pool, with the streams and eddies generated by our turbulent atmosphere creating the twinkling prisms and winking of stars. So, water even runs through our heavens. Enjoy this issue and water in all its forms.
featuredcontributors // writers & photographers
HAYDEN SEDER
DICK DORWORTH
JAMIE HAUSMAN
NILS RIBI
Hayden Seder is a full-time
Dick Dorworth has spent most
Jamie Hausman was born and
Nils Ribi is an entrepreneur,
freelance writer and editor
of his life in the mountains
raised in the Chicagoland area,
business executive and
based in her hometown
of the West. His work has
and after graduating from the
recovering elected official.
of Ketchum, Idaho. Since
appeared in many publications,
Missouri School of Journalism
A passionate amateur
graduating from Sarah
and he has authored five
she became a freelance writer.
photographer since childhood,
Lawrence College in New York
books. “Night Driving,” “The
In addition to writing for print
Nils became a professional
in 2010, Hayden’s work has
Perfect Turn,” “The Straight
and digital magazines, she
photographer by accident. His
been published in numerous
Course,” and “Climbing to
launched two farmer’s markets
love for travel and the outdoors
publications including SVPN,
Freedom” are published
in Atlanta, Georgia. She moved
has allowed him to photograph
The Weekly Sun, Idaho Press,
by Western Eye Press and
to Boise in January 2017 with
everything from cityscapes
Boise Weekly, Visit Sun Valley
are available through Dick’s
her golden retriever, Hooch,
to wilderness landscapes. His
blog, Sun Valley Magazine,
blog at dickdorworth.com.
and her boyfriend, Owen,
photos have been published
Taste, The Source, Western
“The Only Path” was self-
seeking new adventures. She
in The New York Times, Wall
Home Journal, and more.
published and is available on
enjoys cooking, hiking and
Street Journal, The Washington
When not putting pen to paper,
Amazon. He divides his time
spending time at the Boise
Post, Travel + Leisure, Forbes
Hayden loves rock climbing,
between Bozeman, Mont., and
Farmer’s Market.
Magazine, Outside Magazine,
snowboarding, mountain biking,
Ketchum, Idaho.
duPont Registry, and numerous “Winter Wandering,” Page 42
and traveling.
regional publications. Nils also
“Tale of Two Cities,” page 24;
uses his passion for photography
“It’s Going to Be an Epic
“History, Heroes, and Heroines
to help local nonprofit and
Winter,” page 28; “Finding
of the Boulder Mountain Tour,”
governmental organizations with
a Happy Place,” page 36;
page 70
their photography requirements.
“Climbing on Water,” page 54; “For the Love of Hockey,”
“Look Up,” Page 46;
page 64
“History, Heroes, and Heroines of the Boulder Mountain Tour,” page 70; “Why We Live Here,” page 96
also in this issue writers Cheryl Haas, Sarah Linville, Jennifer Liebrum, Andy Kerstetter, Laurie Sammis, and Emilee Mae Struss.
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sunvalleymag.com | WINTER 2019-2020
photographers Travis Amick, Alister Buckingham, Emily Butler, Steve Dondero, John Entwistle, Andrew Maguire, Jon Mancuso, Scott Markewitz, Summer Mitchell, Sean Muldoon, Eric Morgensen, Amanda René Nagy, Issias Miciu Nicolaevici, Sara Olson, and Kirsten Shultz.
ADVENTURE
IT’S CLOSER THAN YOU THINK! Winter 2019-2020
publisher/editor in chief Laurie C. Sammis
managing editor Adam C. Tanous
creative director Roberta Morcone
PSUN FARES FIRST.
guest art director Kristina Mitchell production director Drew Furlong
advertising sales Kelly Mitchell Alicia Cachuela
copy editor Patty Healey controller Linda Murphy circulation director Nancy Whitehead
Sun Valley Magazine Online: sunvalleymag.com email: info@sunvalleymag.com Sun Valley Magazine Awards 2018 MAGGIE AWARDS Finalist, Best Feature Article - “Primal Necessity” 2017 MAGGIE AWARDS Finalist, Best Feature Article - “The Long Journey Back” Finalist, Best Profile - “A Life in the Sky” 2016 MAGGIE AWARDS Finalist, Best Feature Article - “The Great Migration” 2015 MAGGIE AWARDS Finalist, Best Annuals & One-Time Custom Publication/Consumer Finalist, Best Cover/Consumer 2014 MAGGIE AWARDS Finalist, Best Annuals & One-Time Custom Publication/Consumer 2013 MAGGIE AWARDS Finalist, Best Semi-Annual & Three-Time/Trade & Consumer Finalist, Best Special Theme Issue/Consumer 2012 MAGGIE AWARDS Winner, Best Semi-Annual & Three-Time/Trade & Consumer 2011 MAGGIE AWARDS Finalist, Best Semi-Annual & Three-Time/Trade & Consumer Finalist, Best Special Theme Issue/Consumer 2010 MAGGIE AWARDS Finalist, Best Semi-Annual & Three-Time/Trade & Consumer Finalist, Best Special Theme Issue/Consumer 2010 OZZIE AWARDS Gold Winner, publication fewer than 6 times per year 2010 EDDIE AWARDS Gold Winner, publication fewer than 6 times per year 2010 IDAHO PRESS CLUB Best Magazine Serious Feature & Best Blog 2010 MAGGIE AWARDS Finalist, Best Semi-Annual & Three-Time/Trade & Consumer 2009 MAGGIE AWARDS Winner, Best Semi-Annual & Three-Time/Trade & Consumer Sun Valley Magazine® (BIPAD # 074470772330) is published three times a year by Mandala Media LLC. Editorial, advertising and administrative offices are located at 313 N. Main St., Hailey, Idaho 83333. Telephone: 208.788.0770; Fax: 208.788.3881. Mailing address: 313 N. Main St., Hailey, Idaho 83333. Copyright ©2020 by Mandala Media, LLC. Subscriptions: $24 per year, single copies $7.95. The opinions expressed by authors and contributors to Sun Valley Magazine are not necessarily those of the editor and publisher. Mandala Media LLC sets high standards to ensure forestry is practiced in an environmentally responsible, socially beneficial and economically viable manner. This issue was printed on recycled fibers containing 10% post consumer waste, with inks containing a blend of soy base. Our printer is a certified member of the Forestry Stewardship Council, the Sustainable Forestry Initiative, and additionally meets or exceeds all federal Resource Conservation Recovery Act standards. When you are finished with this issue, please pass it on to a friend or recycle it. Postmaster — Please send address changes to: Sun Valley Magazine, 313 N. Main St., Hailey, ID 83333
Printed in the U.S.A.
WOOD RIVER VALLEY, IDAHO Sun Valley | Ketchum | Hailey | Bellevue Nonstop SUN to/from DEN, LAX, ORD, SEA, SFO, SLC. Friedman Memorial Airport | www.iflySUN.com
Irish Sea
localbuzz
IRELAND
NETH.
Celtic Sea
BELGIUM
English Channel LUX.
Atlantic Ocean LIECHTENSTEIN
Bay of Biscay
SWITZERLAND
LIECHTENSTEIN
FRANCE
MONACO
‘TALE OF TWO CITIES’
A
ustria and the little town of Sun close to the Union Pacific line. After several Valley, Idaho, have been connected weeks of searching, the Count heard about Sea since before Sun Valley was truly Balearic the small mining community of Ketchum, born. In 1935, Averell Harriman, chairman Idaho, at the end of a Union Pacific spur. He of Union Pacific Railroad and an avid skier, arrived and quickly wired Harriman: “This hired his skiing friend, Austrian Count Felix combines more delightful features than Schaffgotsch, to ride his trains around the any place I have ever seen in Switzerland, mountains of Western America in search Austria, or the U.S. for a winter resort.” of the perfect location for a great American Within eight months, Union Pacific destination ski resort. Railroad, under Harriman’s leadership, had Harriman’s order, which was a tall one, bought 3,888 acres of ranch land east of was to “…find an area where the powder Ketchum from the Brass family, built the is dry, the sun shines all day, and the harsh Sun Valley Lodge, installed two ski chairlifts, GIBRALTAR Straitwinds of Gilbraltar of winter don’t penetrate.” And the world’s first—one on Proctor Mountain, Harriman insisted that the resort be on or the other on Dollar Mountain—and opened
M ed it e rra n e a n S e
SP.
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sunvalleymag.com | WINTER 2019-2020
COURTESY KITZBÜHEL TOURISMUS / MICHAEL WERLBERGER
BY DICK DORWORTH
Gulf of Lions
SPAIN
PORTUGAL
Sun Valley and Kitzbühel, bound together from the beginning
ANDORRA
Before you let Before you let the party start... Belarus Loremipsum ipsumbe Lorem be sure to Before you the party partystart... start... Before you let let the let us take ca let us take care of the driving.
A skier enjoys the groomed runs above Kitzbühel, Austria. A map of the area and a view of the town are shown below.
POLAND
Ukraine
Mountain R
Mountain Resort Services
CZECH REPUBLIC
SLO.
Chauffeured Transportation
GERMANY
HUNGARY
KITZBÜHEL SWI.
Full size vans
Romania
Buses SLOVENIA
ITALY
Mountain Resort Services Mountain Resort Services Chauffeured Transportation
0
Full size vans
Luxury SUV’s
CROATIA
Full size vans Full size vans
Buses
Buses
* Weddings
60 MI
0
Chauffeure
Chauffeured Transportation
AUSTRIA
TEIN
60 KM
Luxury SUV’s
Luxury SUV’s
* Weddings
SERBIA
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BOSNIA & HERZOGOVINA
* Weddings * Corporate meetings * Nonprofit & community events * Corporate meetings * Nonprofit & community events * Large groups or small * Nonprofit & community events * Large groups or small * From a few hours to muliple days * Large groups or small MACEDONIA * From a few hours to muliple days * Executive airport service ALBANIA * From a few hours to muliple days * Executive airport service
ITALY A d r i a t i c S e a
MONTENEGRO
ITALY
GREECE COURTESY KITZBÜHEL TOURISMUS / MICHAEL WERLBERGER
SWITZERLAND
be sure sure to to let of the thedriving. driving. let us us take care of
Sea
the Sun Valley Resort in time for the 1936 ski season. Tyrrhenian Sea part of it The rest is history, a significant determined by Adolf Hitler, Nazi Germany, and the approach of World War II, a dynamic familiar to ski historians but less so to today’s general skiing public. Even before the “Anschluss” by which Germany annexed Austria in 1938, Hans Hauser, an Austrian, became the first ski Strait of Sicily school director at Sun Valley. Anschluss means connection, and that particular one caused many of the best skiers of Austria to flee their home country and immigrate to MALTA Phone: America.208-726-9351 Many of them were young men
* Executive airport service
Ionian Sea
Phone: 208-726-9351 Phone: 208-726-9351 Web: www.mountain-resort-services.comWeb: www.mountain-resort-services.com Web: www.mountain-resort-servic Email: 208-726-9351 Rob@mountain-resort-services.com Email: Rob@mountain-resort-services.com Phone:
Email: Rob@mountain-resort-serv Web: www.mountain-resort-services.com M e d i Email: ter rRob@mountain-resort-services.com a nea n S ea
WINTER 2019-2020 | sunvalleymag.com
25
localbuzz // Kitzbühel
Sun Valley and Kitzbühel officially became sister cities in 1967, but links to the Austrian town date back to 1937.
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(208) 788-4004 sawtoothanimalcenter.com
A few of the Kitzbühel emigrants to Sun Valley, from left: Christian Pravda, Hans Hauser and Sigi Engl.
who had spent their lives skiing. Two of the most famous Austrian skiers to immigrate to America were Hannes Schneider and Sigi Engl, and they were both enormous influences on the development of American skiing and ski resorts. That is, immigrants fleeing tyranny in their homeland have long proved to be significant assets to America, as evidenced by the history of American skiing and the community and culture of Sun Valley, Idaho. Engl, who was from Kitzbühel, was one of the great ski racers of his time, winning Kitzbühel’s Hahnenkamm race and the Austrian National Championships twice. He was also a fine and popular instructor who immigrated to America in 1937 to teach skiing at Badger Pass in Yosemite before moving to Sun Valley in 1939. He was director of the Sun Valley Ski School from 1952 until 1972. Over his tenure, Engl was responsible for bringing some of the best skiers and instructors from his hometown 5,355 miles away, to Sun Valley. They include: Christian Pravda, a two-time winner of the Hahnenkamm who was also 1954 26
sunvalleymag.com | WINTER 2019-2020
world champion in the downhill. His son, Chris, is still a member of the Sun Valley Ski School. Konrad Staudinger was a member of Austria’s 1956 Olympic Ice Hockey Team. After the Olympics he moved to Sun Valley and was one of the most popular members of the ski school for 50 years before retiring and moving back to Kitzbühel in 2008. He still visits Sun Valley once a year. Rainer Kolb, though born in East Germany, moved to Kitzbühel as a child and learned to ski, race, and teach there. Kolb was director of the Sun Valley Ski School from 1974 until 1999. He was also producer of Sun Valley’s renowned Ice Shows. Hans Thum moved from Kitzbühel to Sun Valley more than 50 years ago and is still working for the Sun Valley Ski School. His son, Hannes, graduated from Sun Valley Community School in 2003 and returned in 2009 as a science teacher and trip leader for the school’s Outdoor Program. Other Kitzbühelers who have worked on the ski school include Heinz Achhorner, Karl Beznoska, Rudi Erler, Peter Erler and Heiner Koch.
COURTESY THE COMMUNIT Y LIBR ARY CENTER FOR REGIONAL HISTORY
Ground Breaking Orthopedics to Small Animal Veterinary Services from daycare and boarding, Eastern Medicine and Physical Rehabilitation, Wellness and Internal Medicine.
COURTESY THE COMMUNIT Y LIBR ARY CENTER FOR REGIONAL HISTORY
During a 1956 White House Summit on citizen diplomacy, President Dwight D. Eisenhower founded the U.S. Sister Cities movement. Sister Cities International (SCI), a nonprofit organization, was subsequently established to build and foster these connections. And it was in 1967 that Sun Valley and Kitzbühel officially became sister cities through SCI. SCI’s mission is to “…create global relationships based on cultural, educational, information and trade exchanges.” Today, SCI is the nation’s foremost citizen diplomacy organization with more than 2,300 communities participating in 130 countries. The organization reports, “… participants [have] developed lifelong friendships that provide prosperity and peace through personto-person citizen diplomacy.” Sun Valley and Kitzbühel have been sister cities for over 52 years now, which happens to be just about the median age of Sun Valley residents (53). Appropriately enough, since the movement was inspired by a great World War II military leader who knew more about the true costs of war and the true values of peace than most, Sun Valley’s other sister city is Yamanouchi, Japan. 2
WINTER 2019-2020 | sunvalleymag.com
27
Jackson Jet Center is Sun Valley’s all-in-one solution for all your aircraft needs. Maintenance
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localbuzz // epic pass
IT’S GOING TO BE AN EPIC WINTER Sun Valley rides the consolidation wave B Y H AY D E N S E D E R
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sunvalleymag.com | WINTER 2019-2020
T
he ski industry has been experiencing a game-changer in the form of resort consolidation and passes like the Mountain Collective, Ikon, Epic, and Max that allow users access to numerous resorts. This year, Sun Valley Resort will leave the Mountain Collective and join the Epic Pass, which allows users access to a number of Vail Resorts-owned destinations and partner resorts (like Sun Valley, which will remain independently-owned) in the U.S., Canada, Europe, and worldwide. “Joining the Epic Pass was a logical fit for Sun Valley and our sister resort in Utah, Snowbasin,” said Kelli Lusk, public relations and communications manager for Sun Valley Resort. “We wanted to provide more options for our guests and to be a part of the industry-leading pass.” Whether to join a pass and which one is a major decision for a resort. When consolidation—the financial merging of multiple resorts and the offering of multi-resort passes—began 20 years ago, it was thought it
might re-energize the ski industry. And it has definitely had its benefits: more mountains under one company or pass is an insurance against bad snowfall, most passes pay for themselves after only a handful of visits when compared to the cost of one-day tickets, and it offers skiers and snowboarders the chance to visit mountains they might never visit otherwise. “The decision to go with one partnership pass or the other would largely depend on what each resort is seeking from joining it,” offered Lusk. “For us, it made sense to go with the Epic Pass. It offers different pass options, it includes other resorts that match well, and it includes many of our target markets with skiers who might visit Sun Valley for the first time.” On the other hand, the passes that are so good for those weekend warriors hitting numerous resorts don’t necessarily benefit local skiers who want to ski at resorts close to home or for vacationers spending a full week at a resort. Some complain that
SUN VALLEY: COURTESY SUN VALLEY RESORT / JON MANCUSO
Sun Valley, Idaho
VAIL: COURTESY VAIL RESORTS / ANDREW MAGUIRE WHISTLER BL ACKCOMB: JUANA NUNEZ / SHUT TERSTOCK RUSUTSU: COURTESY SKIJAPAN.COM / ALISTER BUCKINGHAM
consolidation and joint passes has also hurt the “soul” of skiing, putting much more emphasis on development and less on the skier experience. According to Bloomberg News, since 2012, most of North America’s 50 largest mountains have joined a collective or have been acquired by one of the industry’s two heavy-hitters: Aspen Skiing Co. or Vail Resorts. In addition to those two corporations/holding companies, the market is dominated by three others who own some of the biggest ski resorts in North America: Powdr Corporation, Resorts of the Canadian Rockies, and EPR Properties. “Consolidation is a normal stage in the evolution of many industries, including skiing,” said Tim Silva, vice president and
general manager of Sun Valley Resort. “The primary benefit to skiers from this current wave has been a significant reduction in the cost of season passes, coupled with access to an impressive array of resorts.” This season, Sun Valley Resort will offer four Epic Pass options: the Epic Pass, Epic Local Pass, Epic 7-Day Pass, and Epic 4-Day pass. The Epic Pass offers unlimited, unrestricted access to 20 resorts, as well as other perks like access to 30 European resorts, five consecutive days at Hakuba Valley and Rusutsu, Japan, and a number of Buddy Tickets and Ski-With-A-Friend (SWAF) tickets. The Epic Local Pass offers unlimited, unrestricted access to only nine resorts with other resort access restricted by holidays. Options like half-price tickets during blackout days and advance lift ticket rates give
access to other resorts while this passholder gets the same number of Buddy Tickets and SWAF tickets as the unrestricted Epic. The Epic 7-Day Pass and 4-Day Pass simply allow the holder access to 21 resorts for either seven or four days and discounts increase with each additional day a guest plans to ski or ride. Sun Valley season passholders with an unrestricted Challenger, Young Adult Challenger, and College Pass will also receive a reciprocal benefit of 50 percent off Vail Resorts-owned and operated destinations. “Resorts might join a partnership pass for various reasons,” noted Lusk. “For us, it is an excellent way to welcome skiers and boarders who have yet to experience Sun Valley and at a reasonable cost. We all benefit from cross marketing and promoting to new and existing skiers and boarders. We want our sport to thrive and grow, so if being a part of a partnership pass helps us to get there, then it can be beneficial for everyone in the industry.” 2
Whistler Blackcomb, British Columbia
Vail, Colorado
Rusutsu, Japan
WINTER 2019-2020 | sunvalleymag.com
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localbuzz // calendar
WINTER
2019-20EVENTS
NEW MOON DINNER Dec. 26, 2019 Bubbly Bash
Come December, the Sun Valley area is a winter wonderland. People are out iceskating, snowshoeing, alpine skiing, Nordic skiing, riding fat bikes, even fly fishing. There’s no end to the activities and events one can pursue. In addition, wonderful concerts are scheduled featuring unbelievable talent from all over the country. Here we have collected a few of the highlight events of what many residents consider the season of magic.
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SUN VALLEY TREE LIGHTING Dec. 14, 2019
Festivities begin at 5:30 p.m. in Sun Valley Village for the Sun Valley Tree Lighting Ceremony. The event features a visit from Santa, an ice-carving demo, a no-host outdoor bar, live music, and free hot chocolate and cookies. There’s something for everyone. visitsunvalley.com
‘A CHRISTMAS CAROL’ Dec. 18-24, 2019
Laughing Stock Theatre Company presents the Christmas classic. Details forthcoming at laughingstocktheatre.com.
Enjoy the Sawtooth Botanical Garden in winter! New Moon Dinner events feature a “farm to greenhouse” catered meal with wine for 50 people in our heated greenhouse, a “snow bar” and warming fire pits outside the greenhouse, and night sky viewing telescopes outside on the darker, north side of the Visitor Center. sbgarden.org
SVGA GALLERY WALKS Dec. 27, 2019 – Dec. 29, 2020
The Sun Valley Gallery Association hosts evenings of art and discussion at Ketchum’s many world-class galleries. Artists are often in attendance. Enjoy a glass of wine and discuss the latest in the art world. Upcoming Gallery Walk dates are: Dec. 27, Feb. 14, March 20, July 10, Aug. 7, Sept. 4, Dec. 29. svgalleries.org
MICKY AND THE MOTORCARS Dec. 27, 2019
CHRISTMAS EVE CELEBRATION Dec. 24, 2019
The annual Sun Valley Ice Show will highlight modern renditions of classic holiday music. Group numbers will be performed by the Sun Valley Figure Skating Club and visiting holiday guests. The traditional appearances by the Sun Valley Carolers and Santa Claus are on the schedule, followed by the Dollar torchlight parade and fireworks. Sun Valley Ice Rink. 3 p.m. sunvalley.com.
The ever-popular band with local roots is playing at The Mint in Hailey. Don’t miss the fun. haileymint.com
NATHANIEL HACKMAN Dec. 28, 2019
“Diamonds in the Snow, A Holiday Soirée” will be presented by Sun Valley Opera at the Argyros Performing Arts Center. 6:30 p.m. sunvalleyopera.com
BUBBLY BASH : COURTESY SUN VALLEY CENTER FOR THE ARTS / STEVE DONDERO NATHANIEL HACKMAN : COURTESY SUN VALLEY OPER A
Nathaniel Hackman
PHOTOS: HILLARY MAYBERY
CHRISTMAS EVE: COURTESY SUN VALLEY RESORT / KEVIN SYMS YONDER MOUNTAIN STRING BAND: EMILY BUTLER
Sun Valley Resort Christmas Eve Celebration
BUBBLY BASH Dec. 31, 2019
Ring in 2020 with supporters of the arts at the New Year’s Eve Bubbly Bash, one of the hottest New Year’s Eve tickets in town. The annual sold-out event is held at the River Run Lodge and benefits the Sun Valley Center for the Arts. 9 p.m. sunvalleycenter.org
THREE DOG NIGHT Dec. 31, 2019
Grammy-nominated Three Dog Night will perform from their incredible set of Top 40 hits like “Mama Told Me (Not To Come),” “Joy to the World,” “Black and White,” “Shambala,” and many other chart topping songs. One of the most successful groups in rock history, Three Dog Night, celebrating five decades of hits, live at The Argyros. 7 p.m. theargyros.org
NEW YEAR’S EVE AT THE BOHO Dec. 31, 2019
Let’s ring in the 20s with a Roaring Twenties Great Gatsby New Year’s Eve Party! Exactly one year ago The Boho Lounge in Ketchum was born on New Year’s Eve. 8 p.m. theboholounge.com
Yonder Mountain String Band
YONDER MOUNTAIN STRING BAND Jan. 9, 2020
For the past 20 years, Yonder Mountain String Band has redefined bluegrass music, expanding the traditional acoustic genre beyond its previously established boundaries by steadily pushing the envelope into the realms of rock ‘n’ roll and improvisation. See them at The Mint. 8 p.m. haileymint.com.
POND HOCKEY CLASSIC Jan. 18, 2020
Adult four-on-four Pond Hockey Tournament at Christina Potters Ice Rink. Captains register for the 6 person team; all team members will sign a waiver the day of the tournament. Each team is guaranteed two games. Christina Potters Ice Rink, Ketchum.
WINTER 2019-2020 | sunvalleymag.com
WEDDING AND EVENT COORDINATOR 208.720.4713 amandaseaward.com amanda@amandaseaward.com 31
localbuzz // calendar
TAIMANE
CHERYL STRAYED
Jan. 26, 2020
Jan. 30, 2020
Now is your chance to catch ukulele virtuoso, songwriter and rising star, Taimane, in a small, intimate venue before bigger stages beckon. She brings her full palette of artistic color to Ketchum for a one-night-only performance. sunvalleycenter.org.
Cheryl Strayed is the author of the #1 New York Times best-selling memoir “Wild.” At age 22, Strayed found herself shattered by her mother’s sudden death from cancer and the end of her young marriage. Strayed’s response to this emotional pain was to trek over 1,000 miles along the Pacific Crest Trail. Presbyterian Church of the Big Wood. 6:30
GALENA BENEFIT Jan. 25, 2020
H OF T
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A gala event held in support of Galena Lodge and the Trails. The celebration includes a three-course dinner with wine, an auction, Stand for Galena paddle raise, followed by live music and dancing with the High Street Party Band. Join the BCRD and the Nordic community for this wonderful community event and help raise crucial funds to support the maintenance and future of Galena Lodge and the Trails. bcrd.org
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LL E
2019 • Winter
flyfishing guide trips special rate, free rentals • Guided bird hunting • Stanley steelhead lodge Spring steelhead trips • Great gear and clothing for the outdoor enthusiast • Best fly selection in town • Friendly knowledgeable service
SUN VALLEY NORDIC FESTIVAL Jan. 29 – Feb. 2, 2020
The Nordic Festival is a four-day event culminating in the grueling but exciting Boulder Mountain Tour, which comprises 34and 15-kilometer Nordic races. The festival features clinics, town races, and other fun events. nordictownusa.com
JUDITH MCQUEEN Jan. 30, 2020
Contralto Judith McQueen brings Style to Jazz with the Alan Pennay Trio. Benefiting Sun Valley Opera. Argyros Performing Arts Center. 7:30 p.m. theargyros.org
371 N Main St, Ketchum, ID 83340 208-726-1706 lostriveroutfitters.com Open 9 am-7 pm
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Ski The Rails
sunvalleymag.com | WINTER 2019-2020
p.m. sunvalleycenter.org.
JUDITH MCQUEEN Jan. 27, 2020
Contralto Judith McQueen brings Style to Jazz with the Alan Pennay Trio. Argyros Performing Arts Center. 7:30 p.m. theargyros.org
BOULDER MOUNTAIN TOUR Feb. 1, 2020
Join this world-class Nordic event for pros and amateurs alike. The full Boulder race is 34 kilometers and draws elite skiers; the half-Boulder is a more relaxed event and clocks in at 15 kilometers. bouldermountaintour.com
SKI THE RAILS Feb. 8, 2020
Blaine County Recreation District invites you, your friends, and family to join a free cross-country ski tour along the former Union Pacific Railroad right of way. The Ski the Rails ski tour will take place Saturday, Feb. 9 from Ketchum to Hailey on the BCRD Wood River Trail. 8 p.m. bcrd.org.
TAIMANE: COURTESY SUN VALLEY CENTER FOR THE ARTS / ERIC MORGENSEN SKI THE R AILS : COURTESY BL AINE COUNT Y RECREATION DISTRICT / DEV KHALSA
Taimane
John Carreyrou
SHARE YOUR HEART BALL March 14, 2020
The 18th Annual Share Your Heart Ball, held at the Sun Valley Inn, is a benefit for Camp Rainbow Gold. Experience what happens when a community gathers to bring love and hope into the challenging world of childhood cancer. shareyourheartball.org Bryan Terrell Clark
JOHN CARREYROU
BRYAN TERRELL CL ARK: COURTESY SUN VALLEY OPER A JOHN CARREYROU: COURTESY SUN VALLEY CENTER FOR THE ARTS / MICHAEL LIONSTAR
March 10, 2020
BRYAN TERRELL CLARK Feb. 16, 2020
Broadway’s “Hamilton” star, Bryan Terrell Clark, performs “Songs of Love and Founding Fathers.” 4 p.m. matinee and 7:30 p.m. concert. Sun Valley Opera House. sunvalleyopera.com
INTERNATIONAL GUITAR NIGHT Feb. 18, 2020
Each year, founder Brian Gore invites four of the world’s best guitarists to tour together for two months in Europe and two months in North America. Argyros Performing Arts Center. 7:30 p.m. sunvalleycenter.org.
THE NICETIES Feb. 19, 2020
When an ambitious young black student meets with her esteemed white professor to go over a paper the student is writing about the American Revolution, sparks fly as the two women engage in a discussion about who gets to tell the real story of America. Presented at the Liberty Theatre by the Sun Valley Center for the Arts. sunvalleycenter.org.
In his New York Times best-selling book “Bad Blood,” John Carreyrou shares the full inside story of the breathtaking rise and shocking collapse of the one-time multi-billion-dollar Silicon Valley company that rose to fame with the promise of blood-testing technology that never existed. Presbyterian Church of the Big Wood. 6:30 p.m. sunvalleycenter.org.
SUN VALLEY FILM FESTIVAL March 18-22, 2020
Since 2012 the Sun Valley Film Festival has invited fans and filmmakers to America’s first ski resort to celebrate the magic of storytelling. The year-round Sun Valley Film Initiative develops professionals and Illuminates the process of filmmaking, propelling emerging voices with grants and education. sunvalleyfilmfestival.org
JANSS CUP PRO-AM CLASSIC April 3-5, 2020
Held in memory of former Sun Valley Company owner Bill Janss, the Janss Pro-Am Classic has long held the reputation as the “best party on snow.” Join the fun as amateur and pro skiers compete in a fun-filled race series. svsef.org
120 North Main Street Hailey, Idaho 83333 208-788-1123 christopherandcojewelry.com
WINTER 2019-2020 | sunvalleymag.com
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““
The body will heal when it is given the right environment,” said Phil Rainey, sitting in his newly relocated hyperbaric oxygen treatment (HBOT) clinic, Hyperbarics of Sun Valley. The space, located on River Street in Hailey, is modern and comfortable and contains two hyperbaric chambers. One, built for a single occupant, looks like a bed encased in a glass tube. The second, which can accommodate several people at once, appears more submarine-ish. It’s metal with round windows and has a large sticker proclaiming it “The Mermaid Lounge.” Rainey, owner of Hyperbarics of Sun Valley, is a certified hyperbaric technologist and safety director. In 1985, he graduated from the U.S. Navy’s Second Dive School and became a deep-sea diver for the 294th Dive Detachment. Dr. Nancy Parry is the medical director for the clinic. In the last couple decades, “hyper” (increased) “baric” (pertaining to weight or pressure) chambers were sparingly used to treat deep-sea divers suffering from the “bends,” a painful and potentially deadly situation when gases dissolved in the bloodstream come out of solution (to form bubbles) after ascending too quickly from deep
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YG
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Hyperbaric oxygen therapy provides a treatment option for a number of conditions BY SAR AH LINVILLE
waters. More recently, the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has approved HBOT for 13 specific uses, including treating carbon monoxide poisoning and decompression sickness. While undergoing hyperbaric treatment, a person breathes 100 percent medical-grade oxygen at greater-than-atmospheric pressure levels. The pressure used depends on the specific injury or illness being treated. Since the FDA considers pure oxygen a drug, one must have a prescription from a doctor before receiving the treatment. During a session, the body is saturated with oxygen—10 to 15 times more oxygen than if a person were breathing at normal atmospheric conditions. According to Rainey, this oxygen saturation helps the body stop the migration of inflammatory cells, and it can trigger increased stem cell production of up to two and a half times the normal rate. Stem cells can be thought of as the “spare-parts department” of the body: they develop into different cells that the body needs to repair damaged tissue. In addition, Rainey added, HBOT can help clear the body of toxins and can
COURTESY HYPERBARIC HEALTH & WELLNESS FOUNDATION / KIRSTEN SHULTZ
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body&soul
COURTESY HYPERBARIC HEALTH & WELLNESS FOUNDATION / KIRSTEN SHULTZ
kill anaerobic bacteria, which are harmful bacteria that play a role in nasty things like Lyme disease and appendicitis. “Hyperbarics can treat so many things that it looks like snake oil,” said Rainey. “There’s not a lot of education on HBOT, so it’s held to a different standard. The lack of info can be a problem.” Hyperbarics of Sun Valley has been operating for seven years. In that time, the clinic has seen a number of patients with different ailments, including veterans suffering from post-traumatic stress disorder (PTSD) and traumatic brain injuries (TBI). It is important to note that the FDA has not approved HBOT as a treatment for conditions such as depression, PTSD, TBI, or autism. All that can be definitely said is that, anecdotally, many patients have responded well. So well, in fact, there is pressure for more research about HBOT and neurological injuries. In September, House Resolution 4370—The TBI and PTSD Treatment Act— was introduced. The primary objective of the proposed bill is to “direct the Secretary of Veteran Affairs to furnish HBOT to veterans with TBI or PTSD.” The bill is currently under review by the House Committee on Veterans Affairs. Currently, Veterans Affairs is hesitant to prescribe the treatment on the grounds that there is insufficient research and results. Still, in 2017 the VA Center for Compassionate Innovation approved the use of HBOT for certain veterans who have “noticed no decrease of symptoms after receiving at least two evidence-based treatments.” Evidence-based treatment usually means medication. Currently, the top four antidepressant medications recommended for PTSD all come with an FDA “blackbox” warning (the FDA’s strictest warning)
“
There’s not a lot of education on HBOT, so it’s held to a different standard. The lack of info can be a problem.” — PHIL R AINE Y
Above: Connor Lohrke and Phil Rainey (right), help a patient using a single-place hyperbaric chamber. Opposite page: A multiplace hyperbaric chamber.
helping
veterans
The Hyperbarics Veterans Program is run by the Hyperbaric Health and Wellness Foundation (HHWF), with Bas Verheijen as executive director. HHWF seeks to help make HBOT affordable “for those who face mental and physical health challenges.” The program is sustained through a generous grant awarded by the Arlene and Michael Rosen Foundation, which allows HHWF to treat 25 veterans per year.
and are associated with the risk of suicidal thinking and behavior. A 2019 Department of Veterans Affairs study reported that the suicide rate of veterans was 1.5 times that of non-veterans. The causes of these suicides— whether triggered by PTSD, a result of an adverse drug reaction, or other causes—were not specified in the study. “The medicine gets a negative connotation,” noted Sean Evangelista, a retired Navy SEAL and previous Hyperbarics of Sun Valley patient. “But what else are they [Veterans Affairs] supposed to do?” During his time as a Navy SEAL, Evangelista sustained several injuries, not least of which included a fractured skull, a broken back, being involved in several “blasts,” and being diagnosed with PTSD. Eventually, he was put on several medications, including antidepressants and sleep aids. He also decided to make a drastic change to his lifestyle and moved to Sun Valley with the intent of being able to get outside more. Within a year of moving, the nonprofit program Higher Ground recommended that he take advantage of Hyperbarics of Sun Valley’s veterans program. Evangelista participated in 20 one-hour sessions. Years later, he believes the hyperbaric therapy played a key role in his healing process, alongside other positive life changes like moving to the Valley. Still, he would like to see more exploratory research. “If it were more available, then it would be easier to study,” he said. Post-treatment, Evangelista was able to take himself off medications. Today, he owns and operates a successful “Commandoinspired” apparel company called Thirty Seconds Out. “HBOT is not a silver bullet,” Rainey noted. “It is an adjunct medicine. But when people feel better, maybe they start seeking out ways to live better.” 2
WINTER 2019-2020 | sunvalleymag.com
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body&soul // ketamine clinic
Adam and Shanna Angel at the Sun Valley Ketamine Clinic
FINDING A HAPPY PLACE Ketchum’s new ketamine clinic offers some a reprieve from depression B Y H AY D E N S E D E R P H O T O B Y K I R S T E N S H U LT Z
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I
t’s hard not to find some source of depression or anxiety these days: from political turmoil, to climate changeinduced natural disasters, to rising obesity rates—the list goes on and on. And it’s not just adults, but children, too, who are affected. According to the Anxiety and Depression Association of America, 322 million people worldwide live with depression. The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention states that in 2016, nearly 45,000 Americans age 10 or older died by suicide. To combat this, doctors prescribe antidepressants, therapy, and even electroconvulsive therapy for some. But an unlikely drug is making waves in the depression community for its ability to alleviate depression: ketamine. The drug is known mainly as an anesthetic and is used as such across the globe. It is also known as the party drug “Special K,” a dissociative that produces a trance-like
feeling at low doses and hallucinogenic effects at higher ones. It’s this latter use that creates skepticism that a drug like this should be used medically. Still, the medical community has recently started to embrace the use of psychedelics like MDMA (ecstasy) and psilocybin (magic mushrooms) to treat mood disorders. Ketamine is no different. In fact, in March 2019, the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) approved a depression treatment based on ketamine, a milestone that is sure to open the gate to more widespread ketamine use for depression. The Sun Valley Ketamine Clinic is part of the growing movement of clinics opening around the country to serve a community looking for alternative treatments for depression. Opened in May 2019 by Adam and Shanna Angel, the clinic is located in an office that houses other wellness-related
businesses, giving the clinic more of a “spa” feeling than the sterile environment of a hospital. The Angels moved to Sun Valley from Washington state in search of better school and skiing options for their daughter. Shanna—a certified registered nurse anesthetist with over 30 years anesthesia experience as well as a member of the American Society of Ketamine Physicians—performs all of the ketamine infusions at the clinic. Adam, a former international mountain guide, photographer, and gallery owner, works full-time managing the practice. Shanna still spends half her time working at a hospital in Washington. Bringing a ketamine clinic to Sun Valley might be seen as too progressive or possibly controversial, but the Angels feel there is a need here. “There’s an incredible need for treatment in almost every place,” said Shanna. “Everywhere has depression and anxious people. Once I started doing ketamine infusions at the hospital in Washington, I saw the most incredible results with depressed patients. After three or four treatments, their depression was gone.” As in most ketamine clinics, an initial course of six treatments or infusions is standard; at the Sun Valley Ketamine Clinic these six sessions take place over 12 days. Many clinics will only see patients who have tried every other course of depression treatment. Ketamine is typically used for those who are “treatment resistant.” Shanna requires a referral from a mental health provider, primary care physician, or psychiatrist, as well as a medical diagnosis. “I’m not a fan of antidepressants, so if patients have only tried one, that’s fine,” noted Shanna. “I think people should have treatment and not have to go the conventional way. If they have a medical diagnosis, I’m willing to treat them.” The clinic itself is a small room with a cozy chair for the patient. Shanna monitors the patient during the 40-minute infusion. The appointments are two hours long to give patients time to relax and “come out of it” for 30 minutes or so after the infusion ends. Patients are monitored via EKG, blood pressure cuff, and a blood oxygen saturation monitor. The lights are turned
down and noise-cancelling headphones are provided for blocking out all sound. Alternatively, patients are encouraged to listen to instrumental, calming music. Both Adam and Shanna stress the importance of “set and setting” for infusions—set referring to your mindset and setting the space you are in. “I encourage my patients to really work on their mindset before they come in— through meditation, gratitude journals, eating well, being out in nature, and really coming in with the intention of being healed,” Shanna said. The results can be astounding, with some patients reporting that colors are brighter, food tastes better. One patient of the Sun Valley clinic described the experience as a “million-dollar vacation.” Another patient said, “It’s like lifting the blinds and seeing the light shining through.” But lest you think it’s a magical cureall, there are people who simply don’t respond to ketamine’s effects. In addition, the effects of an infusion or a series of them lasts for varying amounts of time for different people. What’s more, it is not intended to be a one-time thing. To continue feeling good, patients will need to get “boosters,” generally every few months. And then there’s the cost. Ketamine treatment does not come cheap: a single infusion at the Sun Valley Clinic runs $600. “Cost is a problem,” Shanna observed. “A lot of people simply can’t afford it, and that makes me sad. I wish there were funds to let everybody have a chance to be well, but I also have to make money to run a business. But depression is not just for the wealthy, it hits everywhere.” The Angels have also been trying to work with medical providers in the area to get more referrals but have found difficulties. “Some providers that we’ve talked to have never even heard of it,” Adam said. “They’re just not ready to bring this in to the scope of possibilities. But we’re riding a wave that’s inevitable.” Despite the cost, many patients are willing to pay (out of pocket) for ketamine infusions because, simply, it works for them. The Sun Valley Ketamine Clinic may well be part of a new wave in the treatment of depression. 2 WINTER 2019-2020 | sunvalleymag.com
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BEST. DAY. EVER. 844.362.3848 limelighthotels.com/ ketchumweddings
SPECIAL PROMOTIONAL SECTION
Favorite Finds
ARMSTRONG-ROOT OPTICIANS 208.726.4250
…perfect gifts for the season & beyond Patagonia vest with Silver Creek Outfitters logo and Simms plaid shirt
Hoorsenbuns – Wheat Crystal
SILVER CREEK OUTFITTERS 208.726.5282 MZ Wallace tote and Crossbody phone case
Chrome Hearts – “Green”
Parajumpers vest (seasonless style and function) and White and Warren cashmere sweater
Clint Orms buckle “Silver Creek” (sterling silver with 14k gold trout, handmade in Texas) and Chacon belt – matte wild alligator in chocolate
PERO hand beaded cotton velvet midnight blue jacket
SISTER 208.726.5160
Smoky Topaz beads, antique Hindi amulet surrounded by rose-cut diamonds
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SPECIAL PROMOTIONAL SECTION
Reno & Palla reversible faux fur vest
BRASS RANCH THE VILLAGE 208.622.6146
Bogner Koi fish embroidered white and greey jacket (unzips into a swing style).
M. Miller cashmere cross sweater
Warm and sylish Astis vintage Sun Valley hand-beaded gloves
Madeleine Thompson cashmere lounge wear Alps and Meters men’s sweater, Aztech red ski jacket, and Alp n’ Rock custom shirt
Montelliana 1965 leopard aprés ski hiker and Hice white aprés ski boots (ladies)
Frauenschuh red & white knit beanie, layer shirt, and hip pack
BRASS RANCH, RIVER RUN 208.622.2021
Tim Hall skiers tableware with Sun Valley mugs
WINTER 2019-2020 | sunvalleymag.com
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SPECIAL PROMOTIONAL SECTION
Apparis faux fur jacket from Paris
Gem Story wellness body oils: Calm, Passion, Soothe, and Dream
PANACHE 208.622.4228
Henry Beguelin leather and removable fur purse
Favorite Finds
…perfect gifts for the season & beyond
Chantecaille gold recovery mask
PURE 208.727.9080
THE FARMER’S DAUGHTER 208.726.6433
DermaFlash anti-aging exfoliation device Inspirational sign and wooden bowl with silver antler motif and coordinating serving spoons
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SPECIAL PROMOTIONAL SECTION
CHRISTOPHER & CO. 208.788.1123 Handrolled felt letterboard, made in Salt Lake City, Utah by Letterfolk
Boulder Jewelry
Gold-filled sunset earrings handcrafted in Bend, Oregon by Branch + Barrel
Heirloom quilted blanket, handmade in Bellevue, Idaho by J. Coterie
INDEPENDENT GOODS 208.720.9004
Handmade backgammon set, by Wolfum
Johnny Was orange tunic with embroidery
CINDY KIRK 208.309.2559
THE WILDFLOWER 208.928-4700
Heather Benjamin silver necklace with pearl clasp
LeLa Designs Diamond Earrings
Custom, hand-stitched leather bags: The Betty (tote), The Carla (mid size), and The Waldo (clutch)
WINTER 2019-2020 | sunvalleymag.com
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etoutthere
Caption
WINTER WANDERING Camper van rentals extend the camping season BY JAMIE HAUSMAN
I
wake to the sound of footsteps crunching the gravel outside the van as my brotherin-law paces between the camp stove and the bin of supplies on the picnic table. He unclips the top of the percolator and shakes in some coffee, drips in some water, clicking the burner to life. The smell of camp coffee makes me nostalgic for summer mornings too few and far between, waking up to the sound of a rushing river, the laughter of my friends reminiscing on the night before, and the warmth of the sun as it rises over our shaded site, rousing us from our sleeping bags, begging us to take on the day. Then I remember that I don’t need to feel nostalgic. The rise of camper vans—transit 42
sunvalleymag.com | WINTER 2019-2020
or conversion vans outfitted with beds, storage and kitchen elements—has allowed recreational campers like me to extend our good-time-having seasons from the ease of long summer days into the cold, shortened days of winter. The vans serve as transport for adventurers and a warm and inviting already-setup campsite to which they can return after a day exposed to the elements. While most outfitted vans cost as much to purchase as a high-end SUV, the ability to rent them from companies like Boise-based Wandervans for as low as $90 per day makes an impromptu winter adventure easily within reach. Wandervans began blazing the trail for camper van rentals in the summer of 2016.
COURTESY WANDERVANS
Chris Cook founded the company with three vans in Boise, and his partner, August Johnson, joined in the fall to streamline the booking and outfitting process. They now boast more than 30 vans between their Boise and Salt Lake City basecamps, the latter of which opened in 2018. The company’s tagline boasts that the vans are the sweet spot between the tent and the RV, but the comfort and transportation elements are not the only conveniences. The online booking, fully automated checkin and checkout process, and freedom from the logistics of cleaning, maintaining and storing a camper van is the real sweet spot. Other companies, like GoCamp, allow Idahoans to rent camper vans, but the model resembles Airbnb, with personal vans for rent that can lack consistent quality. The Wandervans fleet includes small, medium, and large Ford transit vans. The small and medium vans sleep two, while the large sleeps four. Each van is outfitted with queen-size mattresses, fitted sheets, a cooler-style refrigerator, privacy curtains, a camp table, chairs, two-burner camp stove and counter area with a pump-style sink. Add-ons are also available, including kitchen supplies, solar showers, heaters, and a portable toilet. Despite all of the amenities included in a Wandervan, the design is sleek and streamlined when compared to the tricked out custom vans that Instagram has spotlighted under #VanLife. Companies like Sun Valley’s SYNC Vans specializes in completely customized interiors, with amenities such as solar panels on the roof and studio-style audio systems. In comparison, Wandervans seems basic, and co-founder August Johnson says that’s the point. “The underlying theme of van life culture is live simpler with less and spend more time outdoors and try to truly experience a free lifestyle, in the sense that you’re free to go where you want,” he said. That freedom doesn’t end when the summer campgrounds close, however. Johnson says more renters are booking the vans for shoulder season adventures where a tent might not cut it and an RV seems intimidating. One such renter,
“
It adds a layer of peace and quiet to your experience. We try to go in the off-season to avoid the crowds and to enjoy nature itself.” — AUGU ST JOHN SON Kirkham Hot Springs, one stop on a girls trip last year in a Wandervan.
WINTER 2019-2020 | sunvalleymag.com
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getoutthere // wandervans
Atlanta-based Alexa Lampasona, rented a Wandervan in 2018 for a trip to the Sawtooths to bike among the fall foliage. Her visit quickly turned into a snowy expedition when they reached Stanley and the roads became coated in snow. While their biking goals were limited by the weather, the convenience of the van allowed them to easily change plans, with everything already packed in their vehicle. “If you’re bringing bikes or skis, [the van] makes it a lot easier from a logistics standpoint,” Lampasona said. “All your gear is right there, so you’re able to pull off at a trailhead and go.” Lampasona’s plans for biking single track turned into hiking snowy alpine lake trails, soaking in hot springs, stargazing in cold temperatures, then thawing out and sleeping in the comfort of the van. Plus, she said, adventuring in the off-season makes for fewer crowds than the busy summer months. “It adds a layer of peace and quiet to your experience,” she explained. “We try to go in the off-season to avoid the crowds and to enjoy nature itself.”
While Wandervans aren’t outfitted with four-wheel-drive, the combination of dually wheels, snow tires, and chains temper fears of driving on wintry roads. For those renters who are overnighting at ski resorts, there are cleanly plowed roads to further ease the transit. Wandervans also offers propanepowered heaters to warm the interior of the van, and a diesel heater in some vans for allnight comfort. Preparing for cold weather remains paramount, however, so packing extra layers, blankets and hand warmers will ensure comfortable conditions. As adventurers rent Wandervans during all four seasons, Johnson said the team hopes to open a third location to continue growing the fleet and make camper van rental even more accessible. 2
winter
travel ideas Renting a camper van for winter vacations comes in handy for a variety of trips around Idaho. Here are some ideas for trip inspiration: Hot Springs — Idaho is home to some of the most spectacular hot springs in the country, so make a route and hit the trail for winter soaking. The crowds are nonexistent and the views are epic. Ski Resorts — With overnight parking allowed at Bogus Basin, Silver Mountain, Grand Targhee, Brundage, Tamarack and Schweitzer Mountain resorts, you can spend the entire winter season shredding powder across the state. Bruneau Sand Dunes — This will feel like a trip to the beach, er, almost. Bruneau is south of Boise and feels slightly warmer in the winter. The sand dunes are a sight to behold. Visiting Family? — Book a Wandervan to ease the tension that close quarters can bring. Having
While Wandervans offer propane-powered heaters and a diesel heater in some vans, packing for cold weather is still paramount.
an extra bedroom in the driveway makes it easier on everyone during holiday celebrations.
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COURTESY WANDERVANS
Wandervans provide a great way to get away from the city lights and stargaze.
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getoutthere // winter stargazing
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LOOK UP Ketchum’s dark skies offer tremendous stargazing sights BY ANDY KER STET TER PHOTOGR APHY BY NILS RIBI
F
or thousands of years, humans have gazed at the night sky, marveling at celestial displays like the moon, stars, meteors and the aurora borealis, or northern lights. Many ascribed mythic significance to these sights, such as the Vikings, who believed the northern lights were reflections off the shields of valkyries as they ushered spirits of slain warriors to their final rest in Valhalla. Although we now know the northern lights are a result of solar winds interacting with particles in the upper atmosphere, that doesn’t diminish the awe we feel when we spot them and other spectacles. This winter, the Sun Valley area will be ideal for viewing everything the cosmos has to offer: with frigid temps ensuring moisture-free air combined with Sun Valley’s location in Central Idaho’s Dark Sky Reserve offering extremely dark skies, stargazers of all experience levels will be able to find something to enjoy.
WHAT YOU NEED Aside from proper cold-weather clothing, most stargazers need only their eyes—and they can still see quite a lot. For stargazers who want to see more objects and more detail, a pair of binoculars will do the trick: they can
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getoutthere // winter stargazing
For the best view, head away from city lights.
see
more than just stars Planets — Several planets also can be viewed in the winter months. Those that can be seen with the naked eye are: Mercury, at its brightest on Dec. 13; Venus, at its
increase the number of visible stars from 3,000 with the naked eye to around 100,000. For specific details of planets and a view of very distant objects, a telescope will be necessary. To acquaint yourself with the night sky, get your hands on a planisphere: a handheld star chart that shows all the visible stars, constellations and objects for a specific time and date. More tech-savvy stargazers can use their smartphones to download the free Star Chart app, which overlays a map of visible objects on your current surroundings.
WHERE AND WHEN TO WATCH Any backyard in the area will be suitable for viewing, given clear skies. For better viewing, though, you should get away from light sources and go where the horizon is less obstructed, such as a hilltop or field. Dollar Mountain would be a good spot, and Craters of the Moon 48
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National Monument offers unparalleled views for the adventurous. The prime time for stargazing falls between 11 p.m. and 2 a.m. during periods of the new moon.
brightest from Jan. 1-3; and Mars, at its brightest from Jan. 1-6. You also can see Jupiter and Saturn this winter, though neither will be particularly bright. (If you want to see Saturn’s rings or Jupiter’s Big Red Spot, though, you will need a telescope.)
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
Uranus and Neptune can be seen
All the major constellations can be seen with the naked eye. If you look straight up around 1 a.m., you will see the constellation Orion, the Hunter, best known for his “belt,” made up of three bright stars in a row. The stars of Orion’s Belt can point the way toward other objects: if you follow the line the stars make to the west, you’ll come to the constellation Taurus, the bull. Heading east from the star Betelgeuse, which marks Orion’s western shoulder, will lead you to Gemini, the Twins. Other major winter constellations include the dogs Canis Major and Canis Minor, which contain Sirius and Procyon, two of the brightest stars in the night sky. 2
small telescope, and they will be their
all winter with good binoculars or a brightest on Dec. 31. Meteor Showers — The biggest meteor shower this winter includes the Geminids from Dec. 4-17, which will peak around Dec.13-14 and should be visible from about 10 p.m. onward. Aurora Borealis — As for the aurora borealis, a location with an unobstructed view of the horizon is preferable. To stay up-to-date with forecasts, visit the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration’s website, swpc.noaa.gov/products/ aurora-30-minute-forecast. The northern lights tend to peak between 11 p.m. and 2 a.m.
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getoutthere // solo travel
TABLE FOR ONE Advice for solo female travelers BY EMILEE MAE STRUSS
Taking it all in, Santorini, Greece.
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Table for one,” can be an intimidating phrase for one to use. Perhaps embarrassing. I’ve been there. Walking into a brewery, alone, and a bright-eyed waitress asks, “Table for one?” Her head is tilted slightly with a pityyou smile. I proudly respond, “Yes, table for one, please.” Something, maybe pride, inside of me wants to interject, “I promise I’m not always alone!” To be honest, I have spent a lot of time alone: time at breweries, on snowy hiking trails, and traveling overseas—alone. Completely by choice. It fits right in line with the larger topic of an American female melodrama: solo travel. It’s kind of a hot topic right now because women are traveling solo now more than ever. And it’s not just young 20-somethings or teenage Australians on their “gap year.” It’s middle-aged women, retired women, and all of the stages
in-between. Whether it is hiking the Pacific Crest Trail, boarding a long flight to Thailand, or backpacking across Europe, women are embarking on solo adventures. So, what’s drawing these women to set their fears aside and travel solo? Bestselling memoirs such as Elizabeth Gilbert’s “Eat, Pray, Love” and Cheryl Stayed’s “Wild” share some insight on a common theme: self-discovery. Self-discovery is a constantly changing, ever growing, and humbling thing. Choosing to set aside all titles and pick up a boots-to-the-ground solo traveler title can be an intimidating decision—especially if you’ve never done it before. But chances are, if you’ve met someone who has traveled solo, they will highly suggest it to you. Just one problem: there are all the fears to overcome first. Here are a few tips to help you along the way.
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Research your destination before you do anything else. Get to know the weather patterns, local customs, etiquette, and food. Regardless of where you’re going, always book your first night’s stay ahead of time. Write down the address on a piece of paper and keep it with you.
If you’re traveling abroad, make sure you have a printed copy of your passport, travel plans, and travel insurance. Yes, travel insurance is a thing, and you should have it. Just in case you miss a flight, lose your luggage or, God forbid, have to cancel your entire trip, insurance is a good thing to have.
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Know before you go what to look for. Is pickpocketing common? Read up on current news in the area. Are some areas safer than others? Choose wisely, and always, always, always opt for budgeting higher to stay in a safer area, even if it stretches your budget. Your safety is worth it.
Download software apps like “Maps. Me” (similar to Google Maps but doesn’t require data or Wi-Fi), “Currency Exchange,” “WhatsApp,” (free international messaging) and “Google Translate” to lighten the language barrier.
RESEARCH BEFORE YOU GO
BE AWARE
5
SHARE YOUR PLANS Share your travel plans with your parents, friends, significant others, kids, and dogs before leaving. They might be concerned about you. The more information they have, the better they will feel. It’s also smart to have someone else know where you’ll be in case of an emergency.
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ALLOW IT TO CHANGE YOU Change can be difficult. However, it is a constant and not all change that happens in life is easy to accept. Make sure to bring a journal to record your experiences, feelings, thoughts, and places you’ve visited.
GET INSURANCE
DOWNLOAD THE APPS
Summer in Baja California, Mexico
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getoutthere // solo travel
7
TALK TO STRANGERS January 1-4, 2020
Waimea, Mauna Kea Resort + The Fairmont Orchid, Hawai‘i
January 5–8, 2020 Four Seasons Resort Hualālai
For passes and information 808-854-6095 waimeaoceanfilm.org
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OCEAN EXPERIENCE OCEAN ENVIRONMENT ISLAND CULTURE
Seriously. Talk to the locals! If you’re in a region that speaks another language, try to learn a few simple phrases. Get the secret local scoop on where the best restaurants, hikes, swimming holes, or historic attractions are.
8
SET YOUR FEARS ASIDE Actor Will Smith said it best: “The greatest things in life exist just beyond fear.” Trust yourself, plan well, and be prepared. Traveling away from home on unfamiliar terrain can be intimidating. Allow space to surprise and impress yourself.
9 SAWTOOTH MOUNTAIN GUIDES
BETTER TO BE EARLY THAN LATE It seems pretty obvious, but if you’re traveling somewhere with trains, buses, ferries or flights, make sure you are early. It’s better to arrive early, have a snack, and relax than having to sprint at top speed to make that connection.
documenting your trip
DEDICATED TO YOUR ADVENTURE.
How does one get a great travel photo when travelling solo? Summer Mitchell, an avid single adventurer, has been working to master evocative trip photos. Her simple trick? Carefully propping her phone in nature and using a 10-second timer, which is available on most cameras. Other helpful, inexpensive tools include a small bendable tripod and a camera remote shutter. The remote device attaches to the phone via Bluetooth;
Guided Ski Touring — Avalanche Education
hold it in your hand and click away.
Day Tours & Multi-Day Hut Trips
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SIT PROUD AT YOUR TABLE FOR ONE After all, this is your time for you. Do what you enjoy! Set expectations to ask yourself every day what you want to do that day. Be okay with laziness, if that’s what you need. Be okay with spending four nights in one city when you maybe only planned for one. Be okay with plans changing. Period. Be okay with asking for a “Table for one.” Traveling abroad might not look like some of the Instagram-famous women whose bios display traveling to “85 plus countries!” But it will be your own special, personal, and intimate experience with you. Just you. Tell your fears to take a back seat, but make sure your common sense is seated right beside you. Listen to your intuition and allow the experience to shape itself. And lastly, enjoy the adventure! 2
Summer on a hike in Mount Baker– Snoqualmie National Forest, Washington.
“
Whether it is hiking the Pacific Crest Trail, boarding a long flight to Thailand, or backpacking across Europe, women are embarking on solo adventures.” — EMILEE MAE S TRU S S
The author on the island of Skopelos, Greece
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getoutthere // ice climbing
CLIMBING ON WATER The sometimes miserable, always challenging sport of ice climbing B Y H AY D E N S E D E R / P H O T O S B Y F O R E V E R W I L D M E D I A
T
here is a sport flying under the radar of southern Idaho; one where participants willingly head out into freezing temperatures, lugging ropes, crampons and ice axes, before ascending steep pitches of ice, all for the thrill of what many might consider “type 2” fun. These are ice climbers. While the sport of rock climbing has seen a major uptick due to the increase in climbing gyms, ice climbing remains on the fringe and for good reason: the conditions are harsh, the ice can be difficult to find, and the sport can be quite dangerous. The difficulty of finding good ice to climb in southern Idaho means that the best locations aren’t revealed to those outside the community (and maybe not even them). But despite its underground leanings, there is a core group making up the ice climbers of southern Idaho.
Jocelynn Smith top rope climbing “The Gully” at the Mother Lode in the Snake River Canyon in Twin Falls.
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THE BASICS Most people have a general understanding of rock climbing, and ice climbing uses many of the same techniques and terms. The biggest difference, of course, is that ice climbers are climbing on a constantly changing, malleable surface of ice instead of rock. There are two types of terrain in ice climbing: alpine ice, which exists in a mountain environment and usually requires an approach, and water ice, which is usually found on a cliff or outcropping under a water flow. While alpine ice is frozen precipitation, water ice is a frozen flow of water like a waterfall or drainage. No matter the terrain, the ice varies in consistency (soft, hard, brittle, tough) and can be influenced by weather changes. The grading system to rate the difficulty of routes is different from that in rock climbing. The biggest difference is that a route’s difficulty can change with weather or even after the first climb; since ice doesn’t remain unchanged like rock, there’s no long-term rating. The system starts at W12, which means the climb is low-angled and can generally be climbed with one ice axe, and advances through W17, which requires expert skill. A W17 is extremely rare because of the difficulty; it is basically Caption of ice with no rests. an overhang The moving of ice makes using specialized gear and equipment crucial; it’s a dangerous sport. Ice axes, crampons, helmets, ropes, and ice screws are critical to any climb.
WHERE TO CLIMB With the constantly changing environment of ice climbing, one can see why knowing the spots that have the most predictably good ice is so secretive. “If you find a choice piece of rock, rock is rock. You can tell everybody about it and anybody who makes the effort to find and climb it is great,” said Kevin Hansen, a 40-year-old high school teacher and ice climber since 2002. “That rock will be there waiting for whoever’s next. In ice climbing, there’s a weird secrecy that happens, because if everybody knows about these sweet ‘fishing holes,’ everyone’ll fish your secret spot and all the fish are gone.” It’s no secret that the epicenter of southern Idaho ice climbing is the Snake River Canyon in Twin Falls. It provides easy access to a number of consistent ice climbs of varying degrees of difficulty. The climbs here originate from water running or dribbling yearround that freezes during the winter. “On a scale of one to ten, Twin Falls is an eight,” Hansen noted. “It’s got good quantity and quality.” Sean Muldoon, part of the younger generation of ice climbers coming up in southern Idaho, said of Twin Falls, “It’s very Wild West when it comes to ice. The ice is thin and a lot of water runs over it; you have structural collapse. It’s fairly common to see; the rate that the water runs down there melts things out quickly.” Muldoon, a professional photographer in Twin Falls, is entering his fourth season in the sport. “In Twin Falls, there’s not much of an ice climbing scene so there’s still a pioneer feel to it,” Muldoon said. “I like the dynamic medium. It’s not like rock climbing where it’s the same route and same beta every time; the ice is different, the routes are different. You watch the ice develop, have to scout it. It’s more of a process.”
Indeed, this pioneer feel comes across when talking to any of the several generations of ice climbers in southern Idaho. Back in 1977, Bob Boyles was the first person to climb the north face of Mt. Borah in winter, but he and his crew lost some toes along the way. The hardships of ice climbing are enough to make many ask why anyone would do this sport. Aside from the freezing temps and often long approaches to alpine destinations, there’s the danger of constantlyshifting ice, chunks of ice hitting the climber and his partner as an axe swings into it, and the delightfully-named condition known as the “screaming barfies,” a very painful sensation when a climber’s hands (and sometimes feet) warm up after a period of extreme cold that makes one want to scream, then barf, and repeat. But despite this, there’s something that draws ice climbers back again and again. “What I love about ice climbing is you’re in such an amazing environment in an amazing location, and you can really look around and say, ‘Human beings were not designed to be here,’” said Hansen. “It’s so exhilarating to be on the side of a frozen waterfall.” 2
Ashton Wilson leads the northwest face of Cobb Peak in the Pioneer Mountains of Idaho.
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COURTESY PRG
Lago Kruger and the Rio Frey flowing beneath the Andes mountains through Los Alerces National Park, which was designated a UNESCO world heritage site in 2017, on its way westward towards Chile and the Pacific Ocean.
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a
wild and remote landscape The passage of time on a river in Patagonia BY LAURIE SAMMIS PHOTOGRAPHY BY ISSIAS MICIU NICOLAEVICI
South of the equator, there is a mythical landscape of hanging glaciers and sharp, windswept peaks rising above an arid expanse of vast grassy plains, the Argentine pampas, that frames deep river valleys flowing clear and strong. The rivers twist and turn through the Andes, gathering in riffles and pools the color of topaz and jade where the flickering shapes of trout, shadowy and elusive, flash and sip from below.
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Buenos Aires
U R UG U AY
ARGENTINA CHILE
Bariloche Esquel
PA
TA
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IA ATLANTIC OCEAN
This is Patagonia, a vast region, neither province nor nation, which straddles both Argentina and Chile and encompasses over 260,000 square miles of pristine mountains, rivers, grasslands and steppes. It is a landscape at once foreign and eerily familiar to anyone from the American West—where the high mountain desert, winding spring creeks, jagged peaks and impressive expanse call to mind the topography of Idaho, Wyoming, Montana, which is perhaps no accident, since both areas are nearly equidistant from the equator. The town of Trevelin, Argentina, resting along the central spine of the Patagonian Andes, sits at the near exact southern equivalent of Sun Valley, Idaho (Sun Valley’s latitude is 43.6971˚ North, while Trevelin lies at 43.0888˚ South). It is a wild and remote landscape that bears similarities to the American frontier over 100 years ago. In fact, Patagonia is believed to have been the last place that humans arrived in the Americas and, with just five people per square mile, remains today one of the most secluded locations on earth. It is a place where the fish and wildlife far outnumber the resident human population. Trout were introduced to the region from the U.S. in 1904, thriving in the cold, clear glacier-fed water and growing large on the abundant aquatic life. The rivers in Patagonia are literally teeming with an impressive line-up of freshwater fish, including resident brown, rainbow and 58
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First introduced in 1904, the plethora and size of wild trout thriving in Patagonia’s clear, pristine creeks, lakes and rivers offers an angling paradise far from the maddening crowds.
brook trout, and the fabled sea-run brown trout of Tierra del Fuego, which is a bit of a scientific anomaly, having developed into an anadromous run after introduction in the 1930s. Combine that with the smoldering volcanoes and spectacular scenery, a rich and diverse culture that values adventure, good food, fine wine, and festive gatherings and you have just created the perfect winter escape from any snow-packed and ice-covered driveway. Argentines are both a proud and passionate culture—they relish public displays of emotion, sing out loud at all times of the day and night, brazenly ignore all stop signs, cry openly in public and embrace dance as a means of seduction and storytelling (originating in Buenos Aires in the 18th century, the Tango is the national dance of Argentina). They are also an open and genuine people with a relaxed demeanor that is intertwined with a pioneering spirit and a strong sense of adventure (much of the country was founded by descendants of European noble families looking to extract the natural resources of the land). “Argentines live in the moment,” said Gaia Macchiavello, a native Argentinian, whose family originally came from Italy and who owns and operates LOL Argentina, a travel concierge providing full travel booking services, as well as city tours, transfers, and airport meet and greet services. “They don’t think about what has happened, or they
COURTESY PRG
PACIFIC OCEAN
Above: Sight fishing on the Arroyo Pescado, a famous spring creek in a remote section of the Patagonia steppe that flows east to join the Atlantic Ocean (like most rivers in Argentina)— providing rich habitat for big fish, as well as pink Chilean Flamingos, ducks, geese, ibis, parrots, condors, black neck swans, and many more species.
“
It is a landscape at once foreign and also eerily familiar to anyone from the American West…”
Just 15 minutes from PRG’s Lodge at Trevelin, the Rio Grande is one of Argentina’s most prolific and beautiful trout streams, resting in the shadow of the Andes “Trono de los Reyes” (Throne of the Kings) and offering great terrestrial fishing, varied waters and large quantities of large fish.
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“
…we floated dry flies to big rainbows, slung heavy streamers on sinking line from a drift boat in search of monster browns…”
would be suicidal.” Gaial cites the coup, years of civil war, several deep recessions, the politics, “and they don’t worry over tomorrow, you can’t change it anyway.” Nothing is rushed in Argentina. Time slows and conversations expand, meandering like the Arroya Pescado, a gorgeous spring creek along the Patagonian steppe outside Esquel, so that you may find yourself losing track of time along a riverbank, weaving conversation around the passing of a mate cup, the local tea brewed from the leaves of an evergreen shrub related to holly. In fact, fly fishing in Argentine is touted as one of the best vacations for serious anglers and non-anglers alike because of the many other activities available for those wishing to take a break from fishing: horseback riding across the estancias (large Argentine family-owned ranches) in the tradition of the gauchos, wine tasting, hiking, cultural tours, bird watching, national park tours, museum visits, or simply hiking and soaking up the spectacular scenery. But I am, above all, an angler, and I came to Argentina to fish. So, just two days after landing, after a quick stop in the beautiful and cosmopolitan capital (Buenos Aires has been called “the Paris of the South”) to tour the cultural sites, take a deep dive into history and enjoy some incredible food and wine, my husband, Pete, and I jumped a flight to Esquel, in the heart of the Argentina’s Welsh settlement for five days of fishing on five different rivers from Patagonia River Guides’ (PRG) Lodge at Trevelin.
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During those five days, we floated dry flies to big rainbows, slung heavy streamers on sinking line from a drift boat across the Rio Grande in search of monster browns striking like a locomotive, sight-fished along a walk-and-wade spring creek into clear pools of rising fish beneath the shade of weeping willow and an abundance of fragrant wild mint, and bounced hoppers, stripping off the banks of the Rio Corcovado near the border with Chile as it flows, fast and clear and tight out of the Lago Vinter, one of the largest lakes of the region. The Corcovado was one of my favorites for the variety, alternating between deep cliff-lined pools and corners with views to the snow-capped peaks, and exciting whitewater sections with decent drops; and also because it was the river where I landed my first 24-inch brown, stocky and hard fighting due to living in this fast flowing river. And while the fishing is exciting in Patagonia, there are plenty of times when you can’t help but sit back and just absorb the scenery—even if it only happens during the siesta-like riverside break for lunch, which, with the assistance of the PRG guides, is a sumptuous multi-course meal with tables and chairs, a tablecloth and plenty of the local Malbec on hand. On the third day, we drove the short distance to Los Alerces National Park to fish the Rio Rivadavia. Considered the crown jewel of Argentine fishing, the Rivadavia is easily one of the most beautiful
COURTESY PRG
The clear, jewel-toned glacier fed waters of the Rio Rivadavia flows through the Valdivian rainforest into the Arrayeanes River and the Rio Frey, past trees of beech, arrayanes, and the 3,600-year-old Alerces trees, the oldest living thing in Argentina.
The Rio ChimehuĂŽn, predominantly a wading river that flows through estancia Cerro de los Pinos at Tipiluke Lodge, with the snow-capped Lanin Volcano in the distance.
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rivers I have ever fished, with crystal clear glacier-fed water in shifting colors of emerald and aquamarine, long limbs and mosses from the Arrayanes rainforest swirling tendrils in the currents while dense stands of the 3,000-year-old Alerces (a type of sequoia) marched up the mountainside of the Valdivian rainforest. It was truly breathtaking, with challenging sight fishing to large rainbows, browns, brook trout and landlocked salmon. An angler could spend years exploring the rivers around Trevelin and Esquel, but after five glorious days we headed north towards San Martin de los Andes and Bariloche to fish private waters from the estancia at Tipiluke, a quartet alone on the river, fishing riffles and pools along the private lands through the relationships of PRG North guide and partner, Alex Knull. Knull, who was born in San Martin de los Andes and caught his first fish on a fly rod at the age 9, comes from a long line of anglers— his great grandfather, Guy Dawson, was one of, if not the first, guide in the region. He arrived from Australia in the 1930s as an expert on Merino sheep and caught the first few salmon on the Traful River while managing Estancia La Primavera (now owned by Ted Turner), before quickly realizing the world-class fishing he had stumbled upon and building a hotel in San Martin de los Andes as lodging for guests, thus becoming one of the first outfitters in the country. Knull’s great uncle and uncle followed suit, so it runs in the blood. These are Knull’s home waters, and he knows them well. Our first adventure was to drop down out of the mountains onto the Patagonian steppe to spend three days with Alex and his team of guides 62
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on the Limay River as part of the PRG Unplugged experience, a multiday tented camp trip. Far from roughing it, this experience included a professional chef preparing delicious meals like homemade pizza, paella and fresh cut salads, as well as amenities like hot showers, comfy cots and tents set up before your arrival, with bonbons on your pillow after dinner and a solar lighting system. The stars thrown across the sky the first night of our riverside camp, parrots calling from the trees, and sunsets painted across the open desert landscape and melting into the river in the evenings very nearly overshadowed the sheer abundance and size of the fish caught on dries, nymphs and streamers. Almost. Because the fishing was that good. While abundant and prolific, fishing in Argentina is not for those not ready to learn to: cast into the wind if necessary, fish to trout holding in pools so clear they reflect the sky or to throw heavy streamers 100 feet or more to the bank, stripping hard back to the boat. I learned to trust that I could make the cast the guide asked of me, or at least try (and try again if I missed the first time) and I learned to sit back, share a bottle of wine over lunch, talk politics (yes, politics) with curiosity and unattached speculation, and to live a little more in the moment each day. Critical to those experiences were the genuine engagement and expertise of the guides we connected with along the way, all of it masterminded by Rance Rathie and Travis Smith, best friends from Sheridan, Mont., who first came to Patagonia as fishing guides 25 years ago. Fast forward to 2001, when the two had developed reputations as expert guides adept at navigating the Patagonia waterways and locating
COURTESY PRG
Fishing the Limay Medio (middle section of the Rio Limay) as it winds through the desert environment of the Patagonia steppe with the PRG Unplugged camping experience—an impressive section that receives almost no fishing pressure.
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… and I learned to live a little more in the moment each day.”
COURTESY PRG
Patrolling the windswept banks of the Arroyo Pescado scouting for the large rainbows and browns feeding in the glass clear waters.
fish, then Rathie married his Argentine sweetheart, settling into life south of the border, and Rathie and Smith started their own business. “Our focus from the start has been simple: fish the best rivers in central and northern Patagonia, at the best times, with the best guides,” stated Travis. “We want to give our guests the best opportunity to catch fish in any possible situation and have a first class experience while doing it.” Today, PRG has become a leader in high quality, customized fly fishing programs covering over 10 diverse fly fishing lodges and serving more than 50 different rivers and locations. Most of their guides have been fishing seriously since their teens, or earlier, grew up locally, and come with decades of experience on local rivers. In a testament to the business the two Montana boys have started, most of their guides have been guiding with PRG for since the beginning—for 18 years or more. Rathie and Smith have embraced the culture, and they offer a piece of it to their guests: through the expertise of their local guides, through the art on their walls (from revered Argentine landscape artist Georg Miciu, a close friend, whose museum in Bariloche is a familiar tourist stop), and through their collaboration with a consortium of five local winemakers hoping to create wine that reflects the terroir of their region (their 2018 wines just received 90 and 91 point rating from the well-known wine critic Tim Atkin). The PRG experience is a unique blend of inspiring water, varied fishing, beautiful scenery, interesting culture, lasting friendships and unrivaled service, complemented by gourmet regional cuisine, fine
wines and first-class accommodations. There is great attention to every detail, and yet, in true Argentine fashion, a relaxed and welcoming atmosphere. They understand that fishing is about so much more than catching fish. Fishing is about the telling of stories and sharing in the magic of rivers. More than oceans, even, rivers seem to be the stringing together of stitches in time, constantly moving, and strung deftly moment by moment and pasted with the imaginings of what hovers just beyond reach, imagining what the next cast or corner or water may, perhaps, bring. I have never met another fisherman who wasn’t a storyteller. And not in the way you would imagine—of fish that grow larger once they leave the net, but in the gathering of moments and the recasting them as an adventure that is here, now, with great character and power. Fishing necessitates being in the present moment, even as it conjures the movement of time; a thought that brings to mind my favorite quote of the trip, from PRG North guide Alex Knull. “The thing about time is that it is always moving, “ he said, quite simply while standing beside me in the Rio Malleo one afternoon. “Just like a river, it is passing and passing … and, pretty soon, the thing you were worried about is already in the past, and then you are not worried about it any more.” Agreed. My only worry at this point is how to get back to experience more of Patagonia and the rivers and adventures of PRG again in the future. 2
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Max Tardy
SAR A OLSON
Justin “J-Pants” Taylor
Spencer Brendell
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For the LOVE of Hockey
Now 45, the Sun Valley Suns have put ‘fun’ back in the game BY H AY D E N S E D E R
L
ike any institution in Sun Valley—
ported the team financially for 20 years.
fit for print” and thus will probably go to
The Pioneer Saloon, The Mint, the
Gund had a house here and owned the
their graves, but some fans have heard or
Sun Valley Ski Education Founda-
Minnesota North Stars at the time and
saw for themselves fights on and off the
tion—the Valley’s hockey team, the Sun Val-
wanted to bring hockey to Sun Valley. In
ice and the throwing of various items like
ley Suns, has a storied history, rumored lore,
1973, he leased a parcel of land from Bill
batteries and duck heads at players by fans.
colorful characters and long life to come.
Janss and the Sun Valley Company for his
Burke describes the scene back then as
Celebrating its 45th season this year, the
new indoor skating rink. At the time, a group
truly fun. “Once we started playing games
Suns started as just a few guys wanting
of former hockey players was
regularly
and the arena was formed, around 1,400
to play hockey for fun and continues to
playing on the outdoor rink. Once construc-
people would come to the games. It was
attract men both locally and the world over
tion on the indoor rink was completed in
such an event in town. It’s really unique,
for that same reason: to put the “fun” back
1975, that group, comprising Alex Orb,
we’re the second oldest senior elite team in
in hockey.
Charlie Holt, Nick Orr, David Knott, Hermie
the country.”
The Suns are a group of high-level
Haavik, Doc Burgett, Kim Salmela, John
Steve Morcone, both a former player and
players from Europe, North America, and
Heinrich, John Weekes and Gund, became
coach for the Suns, has been involved in the
some recruited right in Sun Valley. Mem-
the founding of Suns hockey, laying a foun-
team since he joined in 1983. A friend told
bers of the Black Diamond Hockey League
dation for the next 45 years.
him how much fun it was to play for the team
(BDHL), the team competes for a champion-
Also on the original lineup was John
and having just finished school, Morcone
ship trophy alongside other regional teams
“Cub” Burke (also known as “Cubbie”) who
left Washington, D.C., to play in Sun Valley
like Jackson Hole’s The Moose and the
has been the head coach and general man-
for two years. “Like everyone else when
Bozeman Stingers. The caliber of current
ager for the Suns for the last six years.
they’re 23, I worked on the mountain, skied
players is high with teammates with experi-
Burke moved from Duluth, Minnesota, after
every day, and, in the summers, I painted
ence in the American Hockey League (AHL),
hearing from his hometown friend Haavik
and landscaped.”
East Coast Hockey League (ECHL), Euro-
about the Suns, starting an influx of players
One of the youngest players on the team
pean leagues, and NCAA schools, including
from Duluth and the East Coast. He played
at the time, Morcone recalls fondly a trip
Minnesota Duluth, Hamilton, Lake Forest,
from 1975-1986 and then coached for nine
to Japan with the team for over two weeks
Bowdoin, Colby, St. Michaels, Southern
years after that.
when the team toured the country and
Maine, Williams, and others.
Thus begun a time period in the Suns
played on national TV. “We were treated
history that has become legendary in the
like rock stars everywhere we went and had
minds of Suns fans. At the time, the Suns
first-class accommodations everywhere.
Many men feature prominently in the
had a rivalry with the Aspen hockey team
We had guys on the trip that had never even
history of the Suns but no more than
(after that, Vail became the rival, and now
been on an airplane.”
George Gund III, the “father of Suns hockey”
it’s Jackson Hole). Burke and others have
Morcone left Sun Valley in 1985 to go
who built the Sun Valley ice rink and sup-
said that the stories about these days “aren’t
back to Washington, D.C., and start a food
THE HISTORY
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65
GUND, MORCONE AND BURKE: COURTESY SUN VALLEY SUNS
The late George Gund in 1980, the “father of Suns Hockey”
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Former player and coach, Steve Morcone in 1983
Coach John “Cub” Burke in 1977
GROUP PHOTO: SAR A OLSON
import business. He visited the area on
for the south Valley people to attend games
vacations and remained a supporter of the
who might not have before and harder for
Suns. After retiring, Morcone moved per-
the nborth Valley people who once attended
manently to Sun Valley during a time when
Sun Valley games.
GAME 1,000 In February of 2019, The Suns played their 1,000th game and past players were honored.
game attendance was down and the Suns
But no matter the game, whether the
as a whole were faltering a bit. At the time,
Suns play a local competitor or film director
Standing back row,
Kneeling front row,
there was no coach, and Morcone stepped
and coach Bobby Farrelly’s East Coast Gut-
left to right:
right to left:
in for two seasons until John Burke started
ter Snipes, the fans always come out.
John Weekes Harry Weekes Dave Hutchinson John Heinrich Steve Morcone Hermie Haavik Alex Orb Ivars Muzis Steve Bohner Billy Cook Scott Winkler Pete Whitehead Kurt Wenzell John Stevens Mark Broz John Miller Dale Johnson Tim Jeneson Blake Jenson
Zak Greenawalt + son Charles Friedman + son Terry Heneghan James Moskos Brad Dredge Vilnis Nikolaisons Ryan Thomson + son Charle Holt Dave Stone Chris Benson Bobby Noyse
coaching in 2013, a fit that seemed natural. “John is amazing; he’s got a certain pas-
“If it wasn’t for the fans, there would be no Suns, no 45 years,” said Burke.
sion for the Suns, and he’s good at it,”
Getting young fans interested in hockey
Morcone explained. “He devotes a tremen-
is a priority for Burke and the Suns, which is
dous amount of time and effort to get the
why the coach lets children under the age
team organized by managing practices and
of 10 in for free. “That’s when they develop
schedules, getting hotel rooms, recruiting.”
the passion for hockey and they join the youth hockey program and go on to get
THE FANS AND THE RINKS
college scholarships,” Burke explained. “It’s
The Sun Valley Ice Rink was home to the
important. I could charge kids and make a
Suns for many years (and still functions as
little more money, but it brings the whole
their practice rink) but with the completion
family to the rink.”
of the Campion Ice House in Hailey five
One loyal Suns fan is Bellevue Mayor
years ago, the Suns games have all headed
Ned Burns who began attending games the
south. While the crowds are still good—the
winter of 2000-2001 when he moved here.
Suns have a very dedicated fan base—the
“It was wild at that time down in the rowdy
move to Hailey has essentially made it easier
corner, but not as wild as the old days when
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67
players were leaving the ice to fight fans in
to-year basis as it relates to ice time, travel,
dreds of thousands of dollars, and there are
the stands, which I heard happened in the
visiting team support, and other necessary
annual donors to the foundation.
70s and 80s.” [Burke said this is not true].
expenses. Ticket sales and other revenues
In addition to the Suns Foundation, the
“We were more in the throwing-duck-heads-
from games help but don’t begin to cover all
players give back to the community in a myr-
out-on-the-ice-during-Jackson-games era,”
the necessary costs to run a team of players
iad of ways, from going to the schools and
Burns added.
who play for free.
reading to students, to scooping horse poop
Inspired by the Suns, Burns, at the age
“All of this support is to ensure the team
during the Wagon Days parade, to man-
of 30, started playing hockey himself and
is here forever and to honor the dedica-
ning an aid station at the Boulder Mountain
paying attention to the playing of the game.
tion of many others to the organization and
Tour. Players also teach elementary school
“What keeps me going back is the nuance
the volunteer coaching over the years,”
children to skate at the Park Penguins after-
of the game: the little hand motions or deft
said Hutchinson, who played for 15 years
school hockey program.
footwork or tight pass. There are so many
between 1978-1993. Members of the SVSAA pay annual dues
institution is their availability in the commu-
much and to have watched 20 years of those
at different levels varying from $100 to
nity,” Burns said. “The organization does so
little moments is honestly special.”
$5,000 annually. Members have a desig-
much. All those guys are role models to the
nated “lounge” at games and participate in
young hockey players in the Valley.
ALUMNI ASSOCIATION Long overdue, the Sun Valley Suns Alumni Association (SVSAA) was formed
annual events, including alumni skates with
Suns player Spencer Brendel grew up
the team, an annual golf tournament, and
watching the Suns and knows the impor-
more to come.
tance of giving back to his community. “Play-
last year to keep the over 600 former players living all over the world involved and up-to-
68
“The thing that makes the Suns such an
minuscule moments in a game that matter so
ing with the Suns is a lot of fun; you get to GIVING BACK
play in front of your parents and grandpar-
date on all that is Suns hockey. Even more
Before the Alumni Association was
ents and people who have supported you
importantly, it helps to support the Suns
started, a group of supporters and former
for the last 25 years,” Brendel said. “To give
financially and keep them around another
players started the Suns Foundation, Inc. as a
back some of that time is cool.”
45 years.
conduit for donation money to the nonprofit THE TEAM NOW
Former players Dave Hutchinson, John
groups that collect tickets and sell merchan-
Miller, John Burke, and Steve Morcone
dise at Suns games, a concept launched by
Brendel, like many other players on the
started the SVSAA. An advisory board of
Glenn Hunter when he coached the team.
team, came to the Suns after several years
eight other men highly involved with the
The foundation has expanded to donate to
of playing semi-pro hockey. Before all that
Suns was also created. This new arm of the
many groups, mostly in Blaine County. Over
though, he was just a kid growing up in Sun
Suns helps fund the team’s needs on a year-
time, the donations have amounted to hun-
Valley, watching the Suns and joining the
sunvalleymag.com | WINTER 2019-2020
SAR A OLSON
DJ Robinson
Neils “Bobcat” McMahon
Sean “Doc” O’Grady
SAR A OLSON
Eric “D-Day” Demment
youth program as a Mini Mite. After gradu-
Sides in the Central Hockey League before
back year after year and recruiting guys
ating from Wood River in 2007, he played
coming back to Sun Valley in 2013.
from around the world as well.
for two years in Sweden and then was
Taylor was basically “born on skates”
“These guys are playing for the love of
recruited to the University of St. Thomas in
and grew up watching Suns games with his
the game,” Burke explained. “It’s always
Minneapolis where he stayed for four years
father, who coached hockey at Yale before
been so fun; that’s just the way we’re going
before coming back to the Valley in 2013.
Taylor was born. The environment of play-
to be forever. We’re not going to take our-
Brendel is known locally for his company
ing with the Suns versus when he played
selves too seriously.”
Play Hard Give Back (PHGB), which makes
pro is no comparison with the amount of
Morcone added, “If you can have this
handcrafted trail mixes. Sales of the trail
fun, camaraderie, and general hooligan-
kind of fun playing the sport you grew up
mixes benefit PHGB, ambassador athletes,
ery that the team enjoys. “It’s a super-
playing and living in a community like this
and the chosen charities of those athletes.
unique hockey environment,” Taylor said.
with the support of the community as well,
As to why the Suns organization has
“The whole men’s league, crowd-drawing,
that’s what really keeps it going.” 2
remained such a long-running institution,
mountain-town aspect of it, it makes hockey
Brendel offered: “Idaho has a certain soft
fun again.”
spot for hockey; this community has latched
Taylor and the other players have kept
on to it for some reason. It’s cool to follow
the rowdy spirit of the Suns alive, forgo-
in the footsteps of all the guys who came
ing scuffles on the ice for pranks on road
CATCH THE FUN
before us and follow in the tradition.”
trips like “leaners”—a trash can full of water,
NOV. 29, 2019 —
Coach Burke says this season is looking
leaned against someone’s hotel door that
MARCH 14, 2020
good, especially with the addition of local
falls after the prankster ding-dong-ditches.
Joey Sides, fresh from the pro scene playing
The year Taylor joined the Suns was the
The Sun Valley Suns will host games at
for the Kansas City Mavericks. Many of the
first in eight years that the team was even
the Sun Valley Ice Rink and the Campion
players on the current roster have played
allowed back at the Snow King Resort in
Ice House. The games, with teams from
Division I, Division III, or pro hockey, a fact
Jackson Hole due to a story involving prop-
Jackson, Park City, Bozeman, Missoula,
that has no doubt contributed to the Suns
erty damage (although no further details
and Vail, are generally at 7 p.m. and will be
winning three of the last four Black Diamond
were shared).
full of action for the whole family. Tickets
Hockey League (BDHL) championships. Another local who joined the Suns after playing Division III hockey is Justin Taylor,
“The teammates, the camaraderie, the
are $10 for adults, $5 for kids 10-18. Kids
road trips—it all contributes to the purity of
under 10 can attend free of charge. For a
it all,” Taylor said.
full schedule and more information, visit
aka “J Pants,” who played for Lake Forest
The fun of the team and the beauty of
College and then the Arizona Sundogs with
the mountain town keep players coming
sunvalleysunshockey.com
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69
COURTESY ZIONS BANK BOULDER MOUNTAIN TOUR / NILS RIBI
of the boulder mountain tour
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BY DICK DORWORTH
C
ome February 1, 2020, skiers young and old, champions and novices, men, women and children will step up to the starting line of the annual Boulder Mountain Tour held on the Harriman Trail north of Ketchum. There will be colorful ski suits, expertly waxed skis, and plenty of nervous energy to go around. For the BMT, as it is affectionately known, is no cakewalk. It is a 34-kilometer Nordic ski race that includes some of the world’s best athletes. And despite the promise of a morning filled with lactic-acid-induced, screaming-muscle pain and lungs hungrily gulping for air, 1,000
people will show up—likely more would but the number of entrants is capped—as they do every year for this Valley-wide communal rite of passage. A thousand will ski the competitive 34-kilometer race; hundreds more will opt for the also challenging but, safe to say, more social 15-kilometer event. It is a tradition that draws elite racers, families skiing en masse, and even newcomers to the sport. It is, in a word, a spectacle—a good spectacle—thanks to a skier and coach named Rob Keisel who had a bold idea for a race 48 years ago.
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71
Clockwise from top left: Rob Kiesel; if there is a Heartbreak Hill in the Boulder, it is skiing behind twotime champion Dave Bingham (1984-85) when he is leading the charge; from left, Dave Brennan, Bob Rosso, Kate Karges and Dale Gelsky post-race in 1974. Rosso was the overall champion and ended up winning the hand of the lovely lady to his left; Classic skiers stride down course before the advent of skate skiing.
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Kiesel was among the most influential people in the history of Nordic skiing, including that at Sun Valley. His pioneering innovations in Nordic coaching, team building, trail making, trail grooming, and glidewaxing changed both competitive and recreational Nordic skiing throughout the world. An accomplished alpine ski racer before switching to Nordic, Kiesel moved to Ketchum in 1971, and with a partner opened Snug Mountaineering for backpackers, climbers, and cross-country skiers. It was in the same building in which the outdoor store The Elephant’s Perch now operates. The following year, Kiesel took over the coaching of a small group of high school Nordic skiers who had been training on Sun Valley’s trails with Swedish Nordic skiing legend Leif Odmark. Kiesel convinced the then alpine-only Sun Valley Ski Education Foundation to adopt a Nordic program. Bob Rosso (who founded and still owns The Elephant’s Perch and has been one of the primary promoters and organizers of the BMT from the beginning) was Kiesel’s assistant coach. Over the next few years, Kiesel expanded the program and attracted skiers to Sun Valley. A remembrance of Kiesel, who died in October 2011, published in Faster Skier magazine read: “According to Rosso, Kiesel liked to tinker and experiment. He spent time finding new ways to set cross-country track, perhaps most notably along the 32-kilometer Harriman Trail. There in the Wood River Valley, Kiesel helped develop one of the country’s first distance races for cross-country skiers — the Boulder Mountain Tour — in 1973. ‘There were these epic stories of Rob grooming a
R ACE, GROUP, HEARTBREAK HILL: COURTESY ZIONS BANK BOULDER MOUNTAIN TOUR ROB KIESEL: COURTESY SUN VALLEY SKI HERITAGE MUSEUM
created by an icon of nordic skiing
point-to-point trail with archaic 1970s snowmobile stuff,’ said SVSEF Nordic Program Director Rick Kapala. One of the first to dream up a year-round trail from Galena Lodge to the Sawtooth National Recreation Area (SNRA) near Sun Valley, Keisel had to route the trail. Kapala recalled stories of him driving into the river on his snowmobile.” High-level athletics was in Kiesel’s blood. His father, Bob, won an Olympic gold medal in 1932 as a member of the world-record-setting, 4x100 meter relay team at the Los Angeles Games.
COURTESY ZIONS BANK BOULDER MOUNTAIN TOUR
a race is born The first BMT from Galena Lodge to the SNRA was 30-kilometers long and crossed State Highway 75 five or six times. The course was mostly either on top of the highway’s snowbank or right next to it. There were 48 competitors in that race and the first winners were Brent Hansen (2:53:15) and Julie Gorton (3:09:30). Hansen remembers the race like this: “Quite a bit of snow had blown in the night before the race. I was surprised to see how many people were at the start since it wasn’t a big sport in the valley yet. There was a mishmash of wooden skis, synthetic skis, weird touring set ups and probably some Army surplus. It seemed like a large cross section of skiers was there—from young to old. I had been experimenting with ‘klister’ [wax] all season in the backcountry instead of using skins. So that is what I decided to use for the race, thinking it might be warmer on the bottom half. “When the race started, I immediately iced up with clumps of snow and so was at the back of the pack. I had to run with this on and off for the first half of the race. In the second part, the snow was warming up and I was surprised to see I started passing a lot of people. From Phantom Hill to the finish, the trail was blown in and difficult to find. I finally caught up with the lone skier ahead of me, Hermann Primus, who was much older than me, but going strong. I finally was able to pass him. Then I broke trail the rest of the way and realized how much work Hermann had done for us all! At the
finish I was shocked to see that I had won. “Many town folks had come out to watch and cheer us all on at the finish and along the route. The joy and excitement of the event really helped kick off Nordic skiing in the Wood River Valley where residents were longing for something like this and wanted to ski other places besides Baldy and Dollar.” The following year, 1974, the winners were Bob Rosso (1:54:30) and Polly Sidwell (2:18:15). The fastest times ever for the 30 kilometer race, which ended in 1998, were by Havard Solbakken in 1:05:34:3 and Heidi Selnes in 1:12:13:2. In 1999, some changes in the starting area made the BMT a 32-kilometer race, won first by Carl Swenson and Laura McCabe. (The fastest times ever for this course were posted by Brooke Baughman at 1:12:36:1 and Eric Meyer at 1:06:27:6,
“
The first BMT from Galena Lodge to the SNRA was 30kilometers long and crossed Highway 75 five or six times.”
There is no more enthusiastic supporter of crosscountry skiing than Bob Rosso. He’s worn many hats throughout the BMT’s 47 years. Here’s one that suits him well — athlete.
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BMT director Kevin Swigert helped create the Sun Valley Nordic Festival, which coincides with the tour.
The Queen of the Boulder Mountain Tour, JoAnn Levy competed in every BMT from 1964 to 2014.
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the standouts But there’s much more to the BMT than individual winners in those categories. There is also the 15-kilometer Half BMT that starts at Baker Creek and ends at the SNRA. And there are 14 different age categories: from 13 years and under (12
and under for the Half BMT) to 80- to 84-year-olds. In 2019, the winners in the 13 and under category were Anika Vandenburgh (2:01:52:95) and Holden Archie (1:52:22:27). Anne Trygstad of Bozeman, Montana, won the women’s 75 to 79 category (2:41:57:13) and the lone competitor in the 80-84 age category was Steve Swanson, who finished in 2:45:15:29. JoAnn Levy, who first came to Sun Valley from Hawaii in 1964 and who has been a fixture in the Valley ever since, including a stint as mayor of Sun Valley, competed in every BMT through 2014, sometimes winning her age category. That’s 41 consecutive Boulder Mountain Tours. In 2005, BMT organizers gave Levy a special jacket in acknowledgement of her 30 consecutive races (a couple of BMTs were cancelled due to snow conditions). Dave Bingham, one of the finest outdoor sports athletes in Wood River Valley history, won the BMT twice and placed second two other times in the early to mid-80s before, as he said, “…skate skiing became the go-to technique.” Bingham also placed third in the 1980 Pikes Peak Marathon and in 1988 and 1990 won the NBC “Survival of the Fittest.” Such is the caliber of athlete that contends for the BMT podium spots. Bingham is also one of the best-known, accomplished climbers in Idaho and the author of the best climbing guidebooks to southern Idaho. Bingham also exemplifies the close interconnection of the BMT and its racers with the young, aspiring skiers at the SVSEF. Kids ski in the races; elite racers coach the kids; ski parents help put on the race, and so it goes. Bingham, for his part, coached at the SVSEF in three stints over 37 years for a total of 28 years of coaching. Kevin Swigert was director of the BMT for 13 years before retiring at the end of the 2014 season. Swigert, a Twin Falls native who has spent most of his life in the Wood River Valley, was a member of the U.S. Nordic Ski Team and three times National Champion. As director, he was the primary force behind creating the Sun Valley Nordic Festival, which has become a major winter event that coincides with the Tour. The Festival features social events, race clinics, demo days, and an organized ski tour.
COURTESY ZIONS BANK BOULDER MOUNTAIN TOUR / NILS RIBI
“
both racing in the 2003 race.) In 2014, more course alterations were made and bumped the course length to 34 kilometers. The first winners in the 34-kilometer race were Chelsea Holmes and Sylvan Ellefson. The fastest overall times to date were posted in 2018 by Matt Gelso in 1:10:28:4 and Caitlin Gregg in 1:17:41:2.
COURTESY ZIONS BANK BOULDER MOUNTAIN TOUR / WINNERS : NILS RIBI R ACERS : STEVE BUTLER
Racers round a turn beneath the Boulder Mountains. Below: 2019 Boulder Mountain Tour champions Peter Holmes of Sun Valley, Idaho, and Erika Flowers of Bozeman, Montana
the tour becomes a legacy From 48 racers in 1973, the BMT has grown to where only 1,000 competitors, some of them among the best skiers in the world, are allowed each year. A BMT program from 2014 describes the early years as “…similar to the Boulder Mountain Tour races these days, with the more competitive racers bunched up in front while the recreational skiers enjoyed the scenery and the camaraderie that comes with a slower pace. What was different then was that the racers couldn’t pass easily because of the sketchy grooming. And as for the slower skiers, they really took time to enjoy the day. ‘There were no aid stations back then. We used to bring a backpack with lunch, and sometimes a bottle of wine,’ reminisced Andy Munter, the owner of Backwoods Mountain Sports and a veteran of many Boulder Mountain Tour races. ‘The trail was only set for one day a year, so people really took time to enjoy it.’” Today Sun Valley calls itself “Nordic Town, USA” with over 200 kilometers of
groomed trails open to the public from Galena Lodge to as far south as Bellevue. Last season there were nearly 66,000 skier days reported on those trails. The economic impact of the BMT and recreational Nordic skiing on the community is difficult to precisely measure, but, according to Harry Griffith, executive director of Sun Valley Economic Development, “In 2012, the total economic impact of the nine days of Nordic Fest in February was $3.1 million for Blaine County. The majority of this impact was from visitors who came from across the U.S. for the Boulder Tour and stayed an average of four days to celebrate Nordic skiing.” That’s a significant legacy to the local community from one man who liked to “tinker and experiment” and find new ways in the world. 2
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75
inthearts
Detail of “Technique” by Anna Skibska, at Friesen Gallery, glass.
A PLAYDATE WITH ANNA SKIBSKA ‘Light Bearer and Shadow Player’ BY JENNIFER LIEBRUM
“ “
We shall have champagne!” Spoken in a melodic, accented English, this was not an inquiry. Artist Anna Skibska had just given Ketchum gallery owner Andria Friesen and her assistant, Yanna Lantz, a tour of her Seattle studio. Work here was done. And although it is her passion, the place where answered questions are released for others’ consideration, in order to maintain that fervor and fuel her creative hygiene, she needed a change. Home. The place from
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which hobbies are indulged and outings are plotted. This does not mean her mind, or personal animation, is bowed, just tempered and redirected. Given license to explore other facets of creativity through mobility. Her guests will be led to her kitchen where strawberry mice with radish ears and chive tails stare with peppercorn eyes. Soon, they will be consumed whole and chased down with champagne. The host explains the chemical alchemy enhances bubbles. For Skibska, life with a fevered pitch of a mind means surrendering to its review follicle by follicle. Decimation. Inter-relationships considered. Re-created. Shared with the insight that relationships, while always in flux, demand retelling and re-listening for our personal evolution. This complex, philosophical artist’s work bridges the worlds of architecture, line
“Arctic Dreams” | Lars Jonsson | 18” high X 24” wide | oil on linen
“Waves of Snowdrifts” by George Carlson 42” high X 42” wide Oil on linen
George Carlson 360 East Avenue, Ketchum | In The Courtyard | 208.928.7728 www.woodriverfinearts.com
Detail of “Technique” by Anna Skibska, at Friesen Gallery, glass.
drawing and sculpture. With an acetylene torch, Skibska manipulates glass rods into fine, intertwining threads of ethereal forms, translucent, and gravity defying. Her style has been designated a method that must be included in the title of anyone who attempts to employ her techniques. She has exhibited worldwide in museums. Skibska graduated from the painting program at the Academy of Art in Poland and continued as a professor of fine arts and architecture. She joined the faculty of Washington’s Pilchuck Glass School, teaching also at Pratt Arts Center. In his 2013 book, “Spark the Creative Flame,” Paul Stankard devoted a chapter to her groundbreaking achievements. The Anna Skibska Flame-Working Studio is where students at Pratt can learn them. As prestigious as that all is, Skibska describes herself as seriously unserious. And truth be told, even on this fall day when the focus is her winter exhibit coming to Friesen Gallery in Ketchum titled, “Anna Skibska: Light Bearer and Shadow Player,” all she 78
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really wants to think about is the pending oyster season. “Oysters are my weakness! November through the 31st of March, I celebrate.” The ritual of her oyster obsession, once shared and then compared to her process of her art, gives one a tangible access point to her beautiful mind. Oysterville, Wash., on the Long Beach Peninsula, is bordered by the Pacific Ocean, Columbia River, and Willapa Bay. The Chinook tribe attracted the first settlers with promises of a never-ending supply of shellfish. The town exploded as new wealth from the California Gold Rush and trade by schooner spread the word about the delectables from the largest estuary in America. The town once boasted a school, a college, a newspaper, and finally, a church. All picturesque perfection. But the truth included hookers and criminals, drunkards and cheats. Their stories are shared through plaques in front of each of the ghost town structures and cemetery along a walking tour.
“I’m so intrigued by the struggles and betrayals, the uneasy coexistence, the fragility and resilience,” Skibska said. “It’s my own ‘Spoon River Anthologies,’” she laughed, referring to the 1915 Edgar Lee Masters book that raises the dead to rehash the scandalous history of a fictional town. Immediately recognized by readers as authentic, their testimony topples the American myth of the moral superiority of small-town life. “There is a cannery owned by the same family for generations, and we have an area on the deck reserved for family and friends. We drink champagne and shuck the oysters and throw the shells back to the water.” Books are her other escape. She prefers to say she lays siege on them, dissecting word by word. On her bedside table now is Olga Tokarczuk’s “Bieguni (Flights),” a nonlinear story series connected over themes of movement and the human body’s preservation. “This is a book to be felt— reading it is highly experiential, full of almost mystical insight,” wrote a
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inthearts // anna skibska
Anna Skibska in her Seattle studio.
reviewer for World Literature Today. Skibska could be a character in this novel, which The New Yorker summarized as supporting the idea that “mobility is the engine of creativity.” But learning how to manage the motion effectively has its roots in Skibska’s history. As a child, Skibska used her mother’s jewelry as playthings. One day, her mother told her she would have to design her own toys. The jewelry was to be pawned to pay for her terminally ill father’s medical care. “My answer was I went to the dumpster of a shoe store. I picked the best boxes. I organized them and I created my theater with different arranged scenes all around. It was so attractive that whoever visited wanted to see Anna’s theater. I felt really great, I felt like the director and I would tell stories and I made it come to life. That’s how I first learned to arrange things and that order was ‘a sacred thing.’” Because an art career wasn’t as stable as architecture, Skibska was steered toward the latter. It was in that setting she learned about the dichotomy of order and chaos, academic to whimsical. But it was a broken 80
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mirror leaned against a dumpster that led her to explore capturing light. “The result is truly mesmerizing,” said Friesen Gallery’s Lantz, holding a small intersection of cubes with varying color and refraction, moving it throughout the room to illustrate the variations. “A sculpture will look vastly different in morning light versus twilight. The shadows it makes provide another layer of intrigue.” It’s afforded a good living, but even if it weren’t, Skibska would be beholden to it. “I used to have my studio attached to my house, but I couldn’t get away from it.” A workday begins with a meditation and a 12-minute walk from her condo to the organic grocery midway, where she will buy food for breakfast and lunch. At work, “I work with the language that I invented to express myself with light. I tell passionately a story. It’s a moment, it’s a sparkle, it’s an impulse. To tell a story is to provide light. Without light, there is nothing to see. There is not architecture; no one would see the Himalayas, or New York. In that narrow space, I am there. I am building with light and frolicking with shadows.”
Talking about her work can be too emotional, making her feel like she needs a mask to detach. But the walk home, with a stop at the grocery enroute, gives her the distance. She might take Instagram photos on the way, just for fun. She will design jewelry after. And if that isn’t enough, she will hit the road for oysters. “The creative tiredness sometimes works like an indicator that something is wrong. It points out the errors. I treasure that. I try and retain the artistic and physical hygiene by changing the things that I do. To take a break, to take a picture of a berry and learn its name. “You are dismembering me!” she jokingly purrs. “I am not ready to answer your question what intimidates me. But your question has made me think about François Villon. His fears and his hopes presented in his immortal poem: ‘I die of thirst at the fountain side.’ “I ponder the duality of human nature. How could that be, but somehow, it was. I don’t think the six centuries between me and him has changed much.” 2
Waterline XII, photograph
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inthearts // scott glenn
EASY WRITER Actor Scott Glenn and the poet rising from within B Y J E N N I F E R L I E B R U M / / P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y K I R S T E N S H U LT Z
S
cott Glenn is a lot of things: lauded actor, Idaho deputy, Lamaze coach, Marine, hero to three drowning children, father of two, grandfather of four, husband to a “fabulous girlfriend” of 55 years, 80, ice climber, former crime reporter, scarred from being gored by a 1,800pound bull, fire-damaged, tightrope walker, honorary member of the Ifugao tribe, English major by way of William and Mary College, flattened by the President’s current position on the Kurds, an advocate for public school teachers, a distant relative of (or at least a groupie to) the poet Lord Byron, inspired dinner host of Jewish Holocaust survivor Elie Wiesel, from a functional family whose parents truly loved one another. All, he said, because of what should have been a fatal bout of scarlet fever that left him in a dark room with nothing but his imagination for a year at age 9. “The best thing that ever happened to me,” he said. The limp and the weakness he emerged with made him “determined not to live a ‘Walter Mitty’ life.” Mitty, the meek bumbler fictional character, couldn’t have conjured the life Glenn has lived. Countless articles cite his exploits and experiences. His performances in movies like “The Right Stuff,” “Apocalypse Now,” “Silverado,” and “Backdraft” are heralded for his growling authenticity and lithe character immersions. What is less known is the existence of poems, “scribbled on planes and movie sets, in hotel rooms, up a backcountry canyon next to a dead elk,” Glenn
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penned to his bride over the last five decades. “I’ve always written to Carol,” Glenn said over tea in his wife’s potter’s studio in their Gimlet home, recently. “I don’t give things conditionally, they are hers.” “I had a drawer and every year I would save Scott’s writing in plastic,” Carol said. “I always thought these are very good. So,
without asking Scott, I turned them over to Karen.” Glenn oft says, “My great fortune in life, when I wanted to learn something, the best person in the world to teach me appeared in front of me.” For this production, local editor Karen Oswalt is that guide. Oswalt, graphic designer Drew Furlong, and his
Scott Glenn with his wife, Carol, the inspiration for his poems.
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inthearts // scott glenn
enough to weaken you with words. The poems range from the lusty to the near divine. DRIVING HOME It happened again Rolling out of Ely Rubber and black top Singing in the dark That jolt of chill Like an ice-arrow Flying up through The core of my spine And burying itself In the nape of my neck Fear snapping my eyes open and Locking my ankle At eighty miles an hour Not fast enough To get stopped out here. It happened again Face to face with How much I need you How clearly you define This map I travel How tender How savage. Driving home.
Scott Glenn with his inspirational Indian motorcycle.
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photographer wife, Kirsten Shultz, coaxed the self-titled “Carol Glenn” photo book about the coveted ceramacist’s work a few years earlier. “‘Scott,’ Karen said, ‘You remind me of W.S. Merwin,’” Glenn recalled. “She had me right there.” The result is a series of poems interspersed with photos of Carol at work. It’s a celebration of romancing her the whole time of their lives together. With “Room Service, Poems for Carol,” Glenn has proved he’s tough
And just like watching him press his recently-released-from-prison denim against newlywed cowgirl rebel Debra Winger in “Urban Cowboy,” readers will have to surrender to the fantasy. All roads, and lines of lust and love, lead back to his beloved Carol. Glenn said he is just getting back to his promise, pre-illness, to become the next Lord Byron, related or not. Back to the child who loved flowers and poetry. “Poetry, for me, is like trying to remember when I learned to shoot a rifle. It’s so far in the past it is instinct.” It’s perhaps the most jarring performance yet, this one stepping out from the privacy of home and taking center stage. “I’ve got no secrets about acting. I’ll tell you everything.” Glenn said. “The
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poems, once they are out there, I don’t want to tell you how they are done, or supposed to be read. “My poems have spoken to me: ‘You can talk about us and play with us and edit us, but when it’s time to publish us, it’s between us and who reads it.’” Acting is still his core, but it’s clear he’s chasing other muses more right now. He’s already got a second collection in front of Oswalt titled “The Friction Zone,” a metaphoric term for slipping the clutch. “Are you in gear or out, and to what extent can you live in that zone?” Glenn explained. His Indian motorcycle is one of the “Silly Things” he writes about, which exists “for pure fun.” Shultz thrilled him by offering to shoot him on it for this article. Still, Glenn admits there is one grail he hasn’t been able to glean. “The prevailing wish is that just once I get to belt out ‘Mustang Sally’ and have it sound like Wilson Picket.” 2
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inthearts // plein air
Above: “Bearing a Beautiful Covenant” by Silas Thompson, oil on canvas, 24 in. x 36 in.
CAPTURING WINTER’S LIGHT Plein air artists brave cold to catch perfect moments BY ANDY KER STET TER
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W
hen the snow starts piling up in Sun Valley, winter enthusiasts throughout the region don their warm clothes and pull out their favorite snowy pastime tools: skis, snowboards, goggles, and maybe snowshoes, too. But another kind of winter lover packs up a different set of tools: paint and paintbrushes, easel and canvas. The Wood River Valley draws artists year-round for its beautiful scenery, which inspires many of them to paint “en plein air”: outdoors, exposed to the elements, engaging with their subject in real time. The
time-honored tradition has been around as long as people have made art, though it was 19th-century masters like Monet and Renoir who brought the term plein air into vogue, advocating the value of working in natural light in outdoor environments. Winter scenes in particular provide artists with an array of artistic opportunities, though only the most dedicated plein air artists haul their gear through the frigid temps and snow fields to capture those perfect scenes. Ketchum artist Deanna Schrell, a member of the statewide group Plein Air Painters of Idaho, or PAPI, has painted plein air in the Valley for years. Her work has been featured in numerous local art shows as well as the Wood River Valley Studio Tour. Though she loves winter scenes, she said they pose a number of challenges. “If you’re not painting from your car and you want to paint, let’s say, by a river, you
need snowshoes, a backpack for your gear and warm clothes, and you need to make sure your paints aren’t frozen,” she said. Schrell said she mostly uses oil paint— on either board or canvas—which is helpful, considering they remain usable even at very low temperatures. She also said that painting outdoors offers more interesting artistic opportunities than painting in the studio from memory or a photo. “One of the main reasons for painting on site is to capture the correct colors,” Schrell said. “When painting outside, you hope to capture the whole mood and effect of the scene by experiencing it firsthand.” Twin Falls artist Silas Thompson—whose work is represented at Kneeland Gallery in Ketchum as well as galleries in Jackson, Wyo., and Park City, Utah—echoes Schrell’s sentiments. He prefers painting plein air rather than from a photograph because he said the naked eye is able to spot nuances and variations that a camera simplifies out of existence. “The eyes are exceedingly more capable of seeing than the camera is,” Thompson said.
Using oils and a mixture of brush, palette knife and other tools, Thompson particularly enjoys rendering winter scenes because of the way the sun, hanging low in the sky, casts long, intricate shadows that give the scenes depth. Also, venturing into a winter wilderness is exciting on its own. “Aside from the technical benefits of painting outdoors, there is a certain degree of adventure, risk, and purity that makes my heartbeat quicken at the grandness of it all, neck hairs raise in the gathering storm and hands numb from the elements,” Thompson said. But the things that make painting winter scenes outside so rewarding also present challenges. Apart from selecting the right materials and hoping they don’t blow away in the wind or get ruined by precipitation, the rapidly changing light means artists don’t have much time to capture the scene. “I have an assortment of easels that I use in the field depending on the weather, the time, and the size of what I’ll be painting,” Schrell said. “If you’re painting clouds or sunsets or sheep, you only have so much
time to paint them before they disappear or change.” Despite the challenges, Schrell said she loves venturing outdoors to capture specific moods of a scene, in winter and other seasons. “I enjoy going back to the same scene and seeing how I can paint it differently with the different moods and times of day,” she said. Thompson has similar sentiments, and he especially loves painting winter scenes for what he sees as the season’s philosophical implications. “I think it is more personal,” he said. “It’s the death and the hope of new life. Almost religious, winter is like a beautiful pure shadow of something better that is to come—that, plus the cold numbness that reminds you you are truly alive.” However, Thompson admits that sometimes, on frigid winter days, the temptation to remain inside and stay warm next to a fire alongside his wife and daughter can be too much to bear. “It is not for the faint of heart, standing in a foot of snow in January at about 18 degrees,” he said. 2
From left: Silas Thompson at work near Bennett Springs in the Sawtooth National Forest; and Deanna Schrell captured this scene along the Harriman Trail.
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performing arts buzz
SPECIAL PROMOTIONAL SECTION
KIRSTEN SHULTZ
food&drink
From left: Chris Koetke, Rick LeFaivre, Karl Uri, Paul Hineman, Mindy Meads, and Harry Griffith in front of the new Sun Valley Culinary Institute building.
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The Sun Valley Culinary Institute to open its doors after the New Year
“All the Games, All the Time”
BY CHERYL HA AS
For Takeout Call: 726.2744
T
he year 2020 will be a transformative one for what used to be the Cornerstone Bar on Main Street in Ketchum. Its brick interior will echo with the sounds of knives busily chopping, pots and pans clattering on cooktops, and firm words of encouragement mixed with satisfied sighs. A remodel, which will be completed sometime after the first of the year, will transform the historic building into the new Sun Valley Culinary Institute (SVCI). The SVCI will offer professional training for future chefs and cooking classes for anyone interested in honing their home culinary skills. The hope is that the Culinary Institute will provide another base for the Valley’s tourist-driven economy, as well as be a community resource for well-trained kitchen professionals. The Culinary Institute was the brainchild of Sun Valley Economic Development Executive Director Harry Griffith (who will chair the SVCI board) and other civic leaders, such as Paul Hineman of the Revelry Group, who will assume the role of SVCI executive director. “We’ve done a lot of economic analysis of the area,” said Griffith, “and two-thirds of our economy is based on tourism. We saw the strength in that sector and looked for what we could do to provide a better experience for our tourists. We have a sophisticated audience up here and they have high expectations.”
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food&drink // culinary institute
“
They’ll be cooking every day; it’s almost like boot camp. Our industry is very intense, so you have to teach students to function well in that intensity.” — CHEF CHR I S KOE TKE
They tapped chef Chris Koetke as Dean to oversee the operation and its students. He brings with him a wealth of experience: five years as the host of his own television show, “Let’s Dish,” cooking in some of the finest restaurants in the U.S. and France, and 12 years as vice president of global culinary operations for Laureate International Universities. He has opened culinary schools in countries as far flung as Turkey, Malaysia, Peru and Brazil. “Education is something I’m superpassionate about!” he smiled. “I want to give students enough skills and fundamentals to be successful—not necessarily as a chef, because that takes years—but a great education so that when I see them 10 years from now, they’ll have their own restaurant. Many of my students have Michelin stars!” The school will have two tracks: the “enthusiast” track, for foodies and visitors who want to enhance their kitchen skills, which will be offered during the high seasons of winter and summer; and the professional 92
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track, offered during the slack seasons of spring and fall. During high season, the professional students will work at select local restaurants in a paid externship. During slack, they will study six hours a day, five days per week at SVCI. Applications, with preference given to locals, will be accepted in the spring with the first cohort of approximately 12-15 students to begin studies in the fall. “I’ll be looking for students who are serious and who have some level of experience that demonstrates they understand the business they’re getting into,” said Koetke. “I know what it takes to build a really good cook who can flourish in this business. They’ll be cooking every day; it’s almost like boot camp. Our industry is very intense, so you have to teach students to function well in that intensity.” Koetke said his curriculum always starts with the basics. “The very beginning is basic knife skills, which is the foundation of everything,” he said. “We teach safety
and sanitation right away, then build from there, learning method and technique— braising, roasting, sautéing—and how they pertain to different ingredients. They’ll learn butchery, basic pastry and basic service technique, how a dining room operates from a kitchen perspective. Plus, this part of Idaho has unbelievable food resources at its fingertips: the best flour from a small mill in Bellevue, incredible locally grown produce, exquisite lamb. This area is blessed from a food standpoint!” The students will graduate with a technical certificate, and the school has applied to be a federally recognized apprenticeship program. That would allow students to apply credit hours to a twoyear college program, such as the ones at College of Southern Idaho and North Idaho College, or to a four-year program such as the one at Cornell University. Griffith said that because such programs are expensive, SVCI has taken steps to help its students graduate with little to no debt. “Because we’re a nonprofit, we can offer scholarships and financial aid, a paid apprenticeship and subsidized housing,” said Griffith. “It’s a sweet deal!” In addition to a group of SVCI donors called The Founders Table, SCVI has close relationships and support from Sun Valley Resort, the Blaine County Housing Authority, and the Revelry Group, which holds a conference on food and beverage manufacturing in Sun Valley each year. (Griffith calls them the “Allen and Co.” of food and beverage.) Koetke and Griffith envision SVCI as a community resource with local chefs coming to teach a guest class, and local leaders using the SCVI event space to host parties and dinners. “Our goal is to be the culinary hub of the community,” said Koetke. “And we’ve gotten great feedback. Everybody is excited to get the students in an externship or to teach a guest class.” Maeme Rasberry, who with her sister Callie runs Rasberrys Catering and Bistro in Ketchum, is on board. “I worked with Chris last summer and he is great!” she enthused. “I’m super-excited about teaching classes—and being able to take them myself. It will be fun for a small town like ours to have that kind of culinary diversity.” 2
food&drink // dining guide S P E C I A L
PROMOTIONAL SECTION
DINING AROUND TOWN
HAILEY COFFEE COMPANY
THE KNEADERY
Our café serves delicious gourmet espresso drinks and fresh baked goods from our on-site bakery. All of our coffees are fresh roasted in Hailey and our baked goods are served fresh from the oven. 219 S. Main St., Hailey. 208.788.8482.
The Kneadery combines wholesome fresh food with a rustic Idaho atmosphere. All meals start with the freshest ingredients: locally baked organic breads, farm-fresh, cage-free eggs, seasonal fruit and top-quality meats. 260 Leadville Ave. North, Ketchum. 208.726.9462.
A fast guide to the Valley’s best eateries
INTERNATIONAL COWBOY COCINA
DELIS
BREAKFAST & CAFES
BIG BELLY DELI
International Cowboy Cocina is a cornerstone in the Hailey community and has been recognized for its outstanding American cuisine, excellent service and friendly staff. 111 N. 1st Ave. Suite 1C, Hailey. 208.928.7009.
JAVA COFFEE AND CAFÉ
ATKINSONS’ MARKETS Atkinsons’ Markets, serving you and your family at our three locations in the Wood River Valley. 451 E. 4th St., Ketchum, 208.726.2681; 93 E. Croy St., Hailey, 208.788.2294. 757 N. Main St., Bellevue, 208.788.7788.
Homemade soups, salads, and a variety of great sandwiches. Serving the Valley for over 15 years and rated #1 Best Sandwich Deli. Let us prove it, and your belly will thank you. 171 N. Main St., Hailey. 208.788.2411.
Truly a great coffeehouse! Baking from scratch daily. Serving the finest Fair Trade and organic coffees. Sound like a local and order the “Dirty Hippie Burrito” and a “Bowl of Soul.” 191 4th St. W., Ketchum 726.2882; 111 N. 1st Ave., Hailey, 208.788.2297.
WRAPCITY
BIGWOOD BREAD
JERSEY GIRL
PUBS, GRILLS, & LOUNGES
Best sandwiches in town! 14 E. Croy St., Hailey. 208.788.8844.
APPLE’S BAR AND GRILL
Visit us at one of our spectacular locations, both featuring beautiful outdoor views, fantastic food and outstanding service. Fresh and homemade is how we do it! Downtown Café – 380 N. East Ave., Ketchum 208.928.7868; and Bakery Café – 271 Northwood Way, Ketchum 208.726.2035.
BLACK OWL CAFE Locally roasted, custom blended coffee brewed to perfection. Large selection of loose leaf tea. Home baked scones, muffins and breads. Breakfast and lunch. 208 N. River St., Hailey. 208.928.6200.
CAFE DELLA Cafe, bakery, and markete located in the heart of Hailey. 103 S. Main St., Hailey. 208.913.0263
GALENA LODGE The perfect place for a winter or summer outing. During the winter months Galena is open daily from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Lunch served daily from 11:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. 15187 State Hwy 75, Ketchum. 208.726.4010.
GLOW LIVE FOOD CAFÉ Glow is a plant-based and organic cafe and health food store. Glow specializes in delicious, plantbased foods, emphasizing locally grown produce. 380 Washington Ave. #105, Ketchum. 208.725.0314.
GRETCHEN’S Adjacent to the Sun Valley Lodge lobby, Gretchen’s Restaurant welcomes you with a relaxing indoor/ outdoor feel with easy access for Terrace dining all day long. Enjoy breakfast, lunch or dinner and full bar service. Sun Valley Lodge. 208.622.2144.
KONDITOREI Lunch dishes range from pumpkin spaetzle with sausage and apples to roasted chicken crepes with spinach and spicy Liptauer cheese. The café offers a full complement of artisanal coffee and hot chocolate drinks, plus housebaked European pastries. Sun Valley Resort, 208.622.2235.
PERRY’S Voted “Best of the Valley” by the Idaho Mountain Express readers numerous times for breakfast, lunch, and sandwiches, Perry’s Restaurant has been a Ketchum fixture for 34 years. 131 West 4th St., Ketchum. 208.726.7703.
POOLSIDE CAFÉ Enjoy summer-fresh salads, sandwiches and flatbreads, as well as a full range of cocktails and beverages. Choose from light fare such as watermelon salad or spa Caesar to heartier fare like the Lodge burger or wild shrimp tacos and flatbread pizzas. Sun Valley Lodge. 208.622.2833.
RASBERRYS Callie and Maeme Rasberry believe all the senses must be involved in meal preparation; therefore, the menu is eclectic, just like the chefs, with dishes prepared with fresh local ingredients when available and their own take on comfort and ethnic food. 411 Building, 5th St., Ketchum. 208.726.0606.
Wrapcity serves up creative wraps and salads, homemade soups, and unique quesadillas. Wrapcity also serves breakfast wraps all day with special breakfast creations on Saturdays and Sundays. 180 Main St., S., Ketchum, 208.727.6766.
Established over two decades ago, Apple’s Bar and Grill is still the best spot to fuel your body after a long day ripping turns on Baldy! Kick back, enjoy a great meal and a pint of beer at one of the most spectacular mountain bar locations! 205 Picabo St., Ketchum 208.726.7067
BOHO LOUNGE The Boho Lounge is everyone and anyone’s home away from home. It’s a sanctuary for you to kick off your shoes, take a deep breath, stay awhile. Looking for a refreshing happy hour with craft cocktails? We’re the spot. 131 Washington Ave. 208.726-6843.
ELKHORN CLUBHOUSE GRILL When spring hits, hit up the Elkhorn Clubhouse for lunch or early dinner, and recharge with a little Valley R&R. 100 Badeyana Dr., Sun Valley. 208.622.2820.
GRUMPY’S Grumpy’s is a favorite of locals and visitors alike. We are a little hard to find, but not hard to find out about. 860 Warm Springs Rd., Ketchum, no phone.
LEFTY’S BAR & GRILL Lefty’s has a great casual dining menu, including killer burgers served on fresh-baked bread, monster hot sandwiches, wings, salads and our specialty, fresh-cut French fries. 231 6th St. East, Ketchum, 208.726.2744. WINTER 2019-2020 | sunvalleymag.com
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food&drink // dining guide S P E C I A L MAHONEY’S Mahoney’s offers a full bar, a terrific deck that’s just a short stroll from Bellevue’s Howard Preserve and a tasty menu featuring their famous “Juicy Lucy” cheese-filled, grilled-oniontopped hamburger. 104 S. Main St. Bellevue. 208.788.4449.
POWER HOUSE Serving locally-raised Wagyu beef burgers, blackened Ahi sandwiches and tacos, hand-cut fries, and organic salads with a wealth of beers on tap. 502 N. Main St., Hailey. 208.788.9184.
7 FUEGO 7 Fuego is a family-owned and operated “Baja” style BBQ grill located in the “historic” bank building in Bellevue. We specialize in slowcooked tri-tip steak and various seafood items. 200 S. Main St., Bellevue. 208.788.1034.
SAWTOOTH BREWERY 25 taps with beer, wine, cider, and kombucha on tap! Join us for the game on one of our big screen TV’s. We fill growlers, crowlers, and have kegs, bottles, and cans to go! 110 N. River St., Hailey; 631 Warm Springs Rd., Ketchum. 208.726.6803.
THE CELLAR PUB From traditional pub fare such as buffalo burgers or fish & chips to original dishes such as our flat iron steak salad, we have something for everyone in your party. We have a full bar and feature a great selection of draft beer and fine wines. 400 Sun Valley Rd., Ketchum, 208.622.3832.
THE LIMELIGHT LOUNGE When late afternoon hits, we swing our doors wide open for guests and locals to dig into our friendly après food and drink specials. Our full dinner menu is available evenings in the Lounge, for in-room dining, or take-out. 151 South Main St., Ketchum. 208.726.0888.
PROMOTIONAL SECTION
WARFIELD DISTILLERY & BREWERY
ITALIAN & PIZZA
The ever-changing menu brings you the best provisions from across the Northwest in our comfortable neighborhood pub setting. The best summer deck in town with fire pits and rocking chairs for comfort and conversation. 280 N. Main St., Ketchum. 208.726.2739.
DIVINE FOOD & WINE
MEXICAN
ENOTECA
CHAPALITAS GRILL A family Mexican restaurant serving authentic dishes, including specialties such as pollo a la chapala, chicken carnitas, and huevos con chorizo. 200 S. Main St., Hailey. 208.928.7306.
KB’S
RICO’S
This cheerful, laid-back burrito joint serves delicious fish tacos and offers a make-your-own burrito, with a choice of 27 fillings. 260 N. Main St., Ketchum. 208.928.6955; 121 N. Main St., Hailey. 208.788.7217.
Founded in 1982 by Rico and Amy Albright, RICO’S features starters, soups, salads, over 20 signature pastas, handpicked nightly specials, calzones and 11 specialty hand-tossed brick-oven pizzas. 200 Main St., Ketchum. 208.726.7426.
LA CABANITA
ROMINNA’S
Only one way to put it… best authentic Mexican food in town. The town’s hidden gem that is truly a favorite. 160 W. 5th St., Ketchum. 208.725.5001; 745 N. Main St., Bellevue, 208.928.7550.
LAGO AZUL Enjoy true Mexican food in downtown Hailey. Pollo rancherito, carne asada saran and “Sandy” tacos are house specialties not to be missed. 14 W. Croy St., Hailey. 208.578.1700.
Pick up a copy of TASTE of Sun Valley for menus and more!
Since 2013, we have been offering contemporary Italian cuisine prepared to the highest standards. Our premium wine selection includes more than 150 wines to pair with any course. 580 Washington St., Ketchum. 208.726.6961.
SMOKY MOUNTAIN PIZZERIA & GRILL Our fresh, handcrafted food is what brings people in, and our service is what keeps them coming back for more. We pride ourselves on creating a “nourishing and memorable neighborhood experience that people love!” 200 Sun Valley Rd., Ketchum. 208.622.5625.
ASIAN/SUSHI
DANG’S THAI CUISINE Dang’s offers a wide selection of popular dishes ranging from sushi, green papaya salad, pad thai, and their famous green curry with chicken! Highly recommend as an affordable, flavorful and fun experience in Hailey! 310 N. Main St., Hailey. 208.928.7111.
THE RED SHOE Enjoy the neighborhood tavern feel of The Red Shoe while dining on local favorites that include a meatloaf sandwich, wild Alaskan sockeye salmon and braised pork ribs. 107 SH 75, Hailey. 208.788.5048.
RICKSHAW
VILLAGE STATION
sunvalleymag.com | WINTER 2019-2020
IL NASO
Despo’s is committed to authentic, delicious Mexican dishes that respect your desire for a healthy meal without compromising flavor. 211 4th St. E., Ketchum. 208.726.3068.
A warm inviting atmosphere with a comfortable approachable menu that embodies down-home cooking with an uptown feel and flavor. 116 Main St., Hailey. 208.788.6468.
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Ketchum’s newest gastronomic addition, with its upscale pizzeria and wine bar. Enoteca has a plethora of small plates to choose from. 300 N. Main St., Ketchum. 208.928.6280.
Il Naso is special whether you drop by to have a burger and beer at the wine bar, or to relax in the candlelit dining room. The extensive wine list and knowledgeable staff will help you choose just the right bottle to enhance your dining experience. 480 Washington Ave., Ketchum. 208.726.7776.
DESPO’S
THE MINT
Enjoy a wide selection of cocktails and craft beer on tap, as well as a crowd-pleasing menu of classic American favorites: hearty cheeseburgers, chicken wings, pizza and familystyle salads. Sun Valley Village. 208.622.2143.
Voted the best wine bar in the Wood River Valley for the last three years, diVine offers wines by the glass, soups, salads, panini and gourmet pizzas. And don’t miss the delicious fondue or gluten-free options. 111 N. 1st Ave., Hailey. 208.788.4422.
WINTER 2019–20
Serving “ethnic street foods,” as chef Andreas Heaphy likes to say, Rickshaw has been well received by locals, visitors and critics alike. Creative, fresh, small plates are inspired by the flavors and foods in locales such as Thailand, Vietnam, China, and Indonesia. 460 N. Washington Ave., Ketchum, 208.726.8481.
SUSHI ON SECOND
ROUNDHOUSE
Sushi on Second is the Valley’s oldest sushi restaurant. But don’t let age fool you. Head sushi chefs John Rust and Ross Bird are at the center of a talented crew of sushi chefs that delight in creating dishes that are as appetizing to look at as they are to eat. 260 Second St., Ketchum. 208.726.5181.
Perched midway up Bald Mountain on the River Run side, the Roundhouse is a culinary destination not to be missed. Serviced by the Roundhouse Gondola, the restaurant offers spectacular views of the Valley. Bald Mountain, Ketchum. 208.622.2012.
ZOU 75 Zou 75 is your destination for more than great Asian fusion, sushi and seafood selections. With fresh fish flown in several times a week straight from Honolulu, Hawaii, you can always count on the best in quality and freshness. Zou 75 is the perfect choice for your next dining event. 416 N. Main St., Hailey. 208.788.3310.
Among the most popular places in Sun Valley to eat, drink and relax, the wraparound terrace at Sun Valley Club offers stunning views of Bald Mountain, Dollar Mountain and the 18-hole Sawtooth Putting Course. The Sun Valley Club brings exciting, contemporary dishes that are focused on local ingredients and big flavors. 1 Trail Creek Rd., Sun Valley. 208.622.2919.
MEDITERRANEAN
THE PIONEER SALOON
TOWN SQUARE TAVERN Town Square Tavern is a gathering place in the center of Ketchum, serving fresh and inspired world cuisine. With flavors inspired by the Mediterranean regions stretching from the Middle East, to North Africa, to Spain, Italy and France, there is something sure to please everyone’s palate. 360 East Ave. N., Ketchum. 208.726.6969.
REGIONAL NORTHWEST
COOKBOOK This cozy place was built in 1932 as a church and then later on was an architect’s office, daycare, butcher shop, BBQ restaurant and bakery. Vita and Burke Smith fell in love with this cute building and decided to give it a new life. 271 7th St. East, Ketchum, 208.720.3260.
THE COVEY Jesse and Jane Sheue’s new restaurant in Ketchum offers an intimate ambiance with an always-evolving menu. The relaxed atmosphere is a place to enjoy good friends, fine wine, and delicious meals. 520 Washington Ave., Ketchum, 208.726.3663.
DUCHIN LOUNGE All new and inviting, this legendary lounge serves up cocktails, imported beer and an extensive wine list. Now you can also duck in for a quick bite from our lounge menu. Sun Valley Lodge, 208.622.2145.
GRILL AT KNOB HILL The environment at the Knob Hill Inn is casual and comfortable, yet sophisticated, with distinctively Northwest cuisine, and a variety of American and European classics. A top local favorite! 960 N. Main St., Ketchum. 208.726.8004.
KETCHUM GRILL For nearly 28 years, Ketchum Grill has brought your dining experience to the highest gastronomical level, and the best Idaho has to offer. 520 East Ave., Ketchum. 208.726.4660.
SUN VALLEY CLUB
The Pioneer Saloon, renowned for perfectly aged, tender and flavorful beef, is typical of an earlier Idaho where ore wagons rattled down Main Street and business was done with a handshake and a drink. Natural woods, mounted game, and period firearms help recreate an authentic saloon atmosphere.320 N. Main St, Ketchum. 208.726.3139.
THE RAM Sun Valley’s original restaurant, The Ram has been warming and welcoming diners since 1937. Travel back in time with the nightly “Heritage Menu”—a series of historic dishes such as pork tenderloin schnitzel, Hungarian goulash, and the famous Ram fondue. Located in the Sun Valley Inn. 208.622.2225.
THE SAWTOOTH CLUB Always busy with a great mix of locals and visitors, The Sawtooth Club offers a unique blend of American steakhouse classics, fresh seafood, wild game, unique pasta dishes and much more. Many entrees are cooked over the live, mesquite-wood fire, and all are prepared with a singular creative flair. The award winning wine list offers a diverse selection of reasonably priced wines to compliment any of the delicious menu offerings. 231 North Main St., Ketchum. 208.726.5233.
TRAIL CREEK CABIN Trail Creek Cabin is Sun Valley’s destination for romantic dining in a rustic, early-Western atmosphere. Accessible by sleigh or car, Trail Creek Cabin is the perfect winter backdrop for a delicious seasonal menu, which includes Hagerman Valley Idaho Ruby Trout, Buffalo Tenderloin and Trail Creek New York Strip. 300 Trail Creek Rd., Sun Valley. 208.622.2019.
VINTAGE A favorite of the locals, chef Rodrigo Herrera is tuned into the best of the season’s offerings. With a lovely ambiance, both inside and seasonally outside, Vintage offers a dining experience like one would have in France: leisurely, lively, and without pretension. 231 Leadville Ave., Ketchum. 208.726.9595. WINTER 2019-2020 | sunvalleymag.com
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PERSPECTIVE PHOTO BY NILS RIBI
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mountain contemporary featuring the new element collection with the olympus levers and grips in silicon bronze, dark lustre patina
HANDCAST BRONZE HARDWARE | 12 FINISH OPTIONS 180 N Main Street Ketchum | Monday-Friday 8am-5pm or by appointment Exclusive regional distributor of 208 726 2345 | rockymountainhardware.com | rmhshowrooms.com
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