Travel OctNov Issue 2022 by SunsetMag

Easy Harvest Feasts

Explore the West THE 100 MOST INSPIRING PLACES TO VISIT NOW

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CONTENTS THE TRAVEL ISSUE

Todd Hosfelt and Louis Schump created a magical, off-the-grid getaway in Lake County, California.

Editor’s Letter

Best of the West

How we make our home. Baja travel guide, harvest tablescape, and more.

Home & Garden

A Space for All Seasons

Your Garden Checklist

Love Your Work

Farm and Away

Seattle landscaper Scot Eckley shows us how to create a multi-functional patio. What to do in your garden now, no matter where you are in the West. Writer-producer Mara Brock Akil’s office in Los Angeles is a creative hub and the ideal backdrop for an intimate dinner by chef Keith Corbin. At an off-the-grid retreat in California, an architect and a gallerist have curated a modern, rustic getaway.

Food & Drink

A Slice of the West

Very Chinese, Very Vegan

Pizzaiolo Daniele Uditi shares the secrets to billowy, charred, perfectly topped pizzas.

THOMAS J. STORY

Chef Hannah Che explores the naturally plant-based traditions of Chinese cuisine.

A Saffron Harvest Feast On a bucolic California farm, a rare spice is lovingly cultivated, dried, and packed by a small, devoted cadre of crocus obsessives.

The New Cult Cabs Get on the ground floor of collectible wines with these bottlings from exceptional, lesser-known wineries.

Travel & Escapes

To New Heights

Insider

2022 Travel Awards 100 ways to experience the West right now.

Via ferratas provide views traditionally reserved for world-class climbers. Seasonal diversions and secret travel tips from local experts.

Voices of the West

Sam Jordan wants to make fine wine accessible to all.

ON THE COVER

Encuentro Guadalupe hotel in Baja California Photograph by TH O MAS J. STO RY

TH E TRAVEL ISSU E 2022 • SU N S ET

EDITOR’S NOTE

Peace and Plenty Earlier in the year I visited a farm in California that grows one of the priciest crops on the planet: saffron, that beguiling ingredient that stains dishes a sunset orange and famously adds haunting flavor to aioli and less famously but equally deliciously to ice cream and cocktails. Growing saffron is a painstaking process: all invisible promise as the bulblike corms buried in spring turn to flowers in the fall, and for a brief window offer up crimson stigmas that, when dried, go for thousands of dollars a pound. The name of the farm is as lovely as what it yields. It’s called Peace Bees alight on saffron threads at & Plenty, a state of being we could all cultivate if Peace & Plenty Farm. we put our minds to it. (You can read all about it on page 56.) At the end of my visit, the farm’s proprietor, Melinda Price, gave me a burlap bag of corms to plant when I got home. I absentmindedly put them in a drawer only to pull them out a month later to find tendrils pushing out, looking for soil to find purchase in. I buried them in my yard. And now I wait, not to harvest meaningful amounts of saffron, but maybe a little, and if not, at least I’ve joined the rhythm of the seasons in yet another small way. Autumn, ideally, is a season of plenty: memories of a long summer not yet faded, a time for accounting what you have and what’s to come. Time speeds up between now and the holidays, as we harvest what we metaphorically (and sometimes literally) planted throughout the year. And that’s what all the stories in this issue celebrate: people, places, and ideas that yield a new West. In Los Angeles, writer-producer Mara Brock Akil worked with interior designer Tiffany Howell to create a workspace that’s a stylish and inspiring incubator for aspiring writers and artists in Hollywood. At an off-the-grid compound in Northern California, an architect and a gallerist built a low-tech, high-style retreat that encourages them to fully unplug. This issue also celebrates the winners of our annual Travel Awards: These are the standout hotels, restaurants, wineries, tour companies, and destinations from Arizona to Wyoming that represent all the wonderful ways to explore the West. On the list you’ll find a few spots in one of my favorite destinations, the bucolic Santa Ynez Valley, home to rolling hills dotted with oaks, world-class wineries, and charming country towns. In November we’ll be there hosting events at Taste of the Santa Ynez Valley, a multi-day celebration of the region’s food and wine in a modern-day version of a classic harvest festival. We hope you’ll join us in celebrating the season. Tickets are available at sunset.com/santa-ynez. Until harvest, I look at that spot in my yard where I planted the saffron. If I’m lucky, I’ll have just enough to make a pint of saffron ice cream, and that will be plenty.

CHAIRMAN & PUBLISHER

Michael A. Reinstein

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Hugh Garvey DEPUTY EDITOR

Kristin Scharkey CREATIVE DIRECTOR

Michael Wilson PHOTO EDITOR

Christine Bobbish STAFF PHOTOGRAPHER

Thomas J. Story

TRAVEL EDITOR

Krista Simmons

CONTRIBUTING HOME & DESIGN EDITOR

Christine Lennon

CONTRIBUTING GARDEN EDITOR

Deanna Kizis

DIGITAL PRODUCER/NEWSLETTER EDITOR

Nicole Clausing

LIFESTYLE CONTRIBUTOR

Camille Styles

SENIOR DIRECTOR, PRODUCTION

Jamie Elliott

VICE PRESIDENT, DIGITAL INITIATIVES

Matt Gross Sales

SVP, MEDIA SOLUTIONS

Mort Greenberg VP, PARTNERSHIPS

Kathleen Craven HEAD OF TRAVEL

Pamela Coffey HEAD OF OUTDOOR

Kristi Rummel

SVP, REVENUE OPERATIONS

Kelly Facer

DIRECTOR OF AD OPERATIONS

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ACCOUNT MANAGER

Cammeo Murray Marketing

—Hugh Garvey,

CREATIVE DIRECTOR

E D ITO R-I N - CH I E F

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HEAD OF CUSTOM EVENTS

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SU N S ET • TH E TRAVEL ISSU E 2022

THOMAS J. STORY

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TO THE MOON AND BACK

First-of-its-kind, Clover Sonoma Moon Milks promote well-being and relaxation in mind and body as part of a holistic daily ritual. Brighten your cereal or smoothie bowl, sip over ice or froth into warm drinks, to experience a moment of serenity with Cherry Berry Hibiscus, Turmeric Ginger and Blueberry Lavender Moon Milks. ClovertheMoon.com

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BEST

OF T H E

WEST

Beauty of Baja

Mexico’s western peninsula comes alive during harvest season, when innovative wine, delightful tasting rooms, and otherworldly accommodations converge—from the hottest new hotels to classic pioneers. Story by SU N S ET STAFF

Photograph by TH O MAS J. STO RY

TH E TRAVEL ISSU E 2022 • SU N S ET

Paradero Todos Santos

Where to Stay

Acre Resort

AC R E R E S O R T

BRUMA

C UAT R O C UAT R O S

this collection of a dozen treehouses,

out of style; that’s the case with this

da and the Guadalupe Valley, glamp-

Lush palm trees and cactuses envelop offering a rustic perch to take in the

foothills of San Jose del Cabo before a massage. acreresort.com

Some spots are so good they never go rustic-chic resort right in the middle of Guadalupe Valley wine country. Be

sure to stop by Fauna restaurant for the experimental tasting menu. bruma.mx

ing tents are paired with contemporary restaurants where you can

sample seafood with estate wines. cuatrocuatrosreservas.com

BA N YA N T R E E VA L L E D E G UA DA-

CA M P E R A H OT E L B U R B U JA

E N C U E N T R O G UA DA LU P E

Slated to open next year, this modern

are the name of the game at this eco-

this property, with amenities that

LU P E R E S O R T, S PA A N D W I N E RY

resort will be set amid olive groves and play host to a hilltop eatery and winery, plus an onsite garden and spa treatments. banyantree.com

Located on the road between Ensena-

SU N S ET • TH E TRAVEL ISSU E 2022

Thoughtfully appointed bubble tents

friendly resort right in the middle of the valley, each with a bathroom and airconditioning. camperahotel.com

Hillside pods billed as “ecolofts” dot range from in-room fireplaces to

soaking tubs. Do we even need to talk about the views?

encuentrocollection.com

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: THOMAS J. STORY; PARADERO HOTELS; ACRE RESORT

Bruma

Counter Intelligence

FO U R S E AS O N S R E S O R T LO S CA B O S AT C O S TA PA L M AS

Use vegetables and flowers from your garden to decorate a fall harvest table.

Nestled in white sands on the Sea of Cortez, these oceanfront suites and

villas are the epitome of luxury, while

the nearby Cabo Pulmo National Ma-

Story by CH RI STI N E LE N N O N

rine Park, a UNESCO Marine World Heri-

If you think your vegetables are too pretty to

hide in your refrigerator, you are not alone. But if a basket filled with glossy eggplants and

persimmons feels too much like an early ’80s

throwback, you’re not alone in that thinking either. Luckily, there’s a modern way to display

these gems. We enlisted the help of Lauri Kranz from Edible Gardens LA and interior designer

Molly Russell Ford to help us come up with tips for the ultimate fall harvest table.

tage Site, deserves a day trip. fourseasons.com/loscabos

PA R A D E R O TO D O S SA N TO S

Jaw-dropping vistas and stargazing

“star nets” suspended between suites are only part of the allure; you can

swim up to a bar in the infinity pool that overlooks the surrounding

mountains. paraderohotels.com

Go Now

VALLE FO O D & WI N E FE ST Oct. 21–23

Rethink your greenery.

Instead of stocking up on eucalyptus, ivy, or

myrtle, fill in your flower arrangements using just-picked

stems of basil, mint, catmint,

sage, sorrel, or

chard. Kranz, for

FROM LEFT: JENNI HUANG/@HELLO.JENNI; THOMAS J. STORY

example, has

Back for its fourth year, this two-day festival offers all-star lineups featuring standout chefs including Nancy Silverton and Rick Bayless, plus delicious wine in an outdoor venue that celebrates the best the Guadalupe Valley has to offer. vallefoodandwinefest.com

used the red,

lacy veins of the sorrel to com-

plement the red

zinnias and garden-grown

dahlias. It’s a

great way to use an excess of greens from your cool-

weather garden.

Play with scale.

A heavy, sage-

green pumpkin

can anchor a fall table in the

same way a

pricey profes-

sional arrange-

ment can. Place it on a cutting

board or platter, and use it as a base to build

around—adding deep purple

eggplant, small

zucchini with the blossoms still

attached, or the lacy tops of carrots.

Add bees-

wax candles

and neutral linens in comple-

mentary colors. Candles in

shades like

blush pink and

olive green can bring out the

colors in your

produce. Unfin-

ished wood and

aged brass candlesticks work well with the

rustic theme. A

cream gingham tablecloth from Morrow Soft

Goods is the

Use what you have

around the house.

Dig through your cabinets to find low, shallow

baskets, metal and ceramic

trays, or platters to display the

harvest. A footed glass vase from

last year’s Mother’s Day flower

delivery can become the ideal spot for a few

bunches of rainbow carrots.

perfect neutral backdrop for a palette of fall

Cut open

vegetables

and fruits to

show the beauty inside.

Show off those watermelon

radishes, purple carrots, pomegranates, and

persimmons by

revealing they’re beautiful on the inside, too. Slice open your pro-

duce to add texture and more

interesting color to your tables-

cape. Just make sure the linens you use are

stain-proof.

garden color.

Shop garden tools and hand-thrown ceramics from Edible Gardens LA at ediblegardensla.com

TH E TRAVEL ISSU E 2022 • SU N S ET

HIKING

In a place like Montana, adventure lies in something as simple as a walk in the woods. Setting off by foot and feeling the earth underneath is good for the heart and soul, especially with a view like ours. HYALITE CANYON. JONATHAN FINCH

HOT SPRINGS

Natural hot springs are, quite literally, Yellowstone Country’s hottest spots. After a long day of exploration and adventure, there’s nothing like soaking in the healing mineral waters of nature’s hot tub. CHICO HOT SPRINGS, JONATHAN FINCH

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Yellowstone is more than a park. In Montana, it’s a whole country. Forces of nature originally drew you to the park. Unfortunately, they might also keep you from enjoying some of the things you may have planned on your trip. Yellowstone is more than a park, however. It’s an entire ecosystem and it doesn’t stop at the park boundary. Venture farther into Montana, and you’ll find many of the things you were looking for. Start discovering now. Get your FREE Travel Packet by calling 1.800.736.5276 or going to VisitYellowstoneCountry.com.

ANDY AUSTIN - PARADISE VALLEY

SCENIC DRIVES

You’d be hard pressed to find a road in Yellowstone Country that isn’t scenic. Every switchback will surprise you. And each mile marker will reveal another place to pull over and rethink where you spend those hard-earned vacation days. BEARTOOTH HIGHWAY, ANDY AUSTIN

FISHING

If you find yourself knee-deep in a lazy stretch of a world-class river, casting a fly rod against the most sublimely beautiful landscape you’ve ever laid eyes on, you’re in Montana’s Yellowstone Country. After all, the Madison, Gallatin and Yellowstone rivers run through here, and we’ve even got a valley called Paradise. MADISON RIVER, KEN TAKATA

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Witches Brew

Halloween Spirits

For instant Halloween vibes, buy novelty glassware online, such as skeleton-

hand Champagne flutes or skull glasses like the one pictured here.

Casamigos’ Halloween party in Beverly Hills is a legendary fall affair. Here’s how to throw your own.

1 lemon, cut into wedges

Black Lava Salt mixture, for garnish 1½ oz. Casamigos blanco tequila 1½ oz. Midori Melon Liqueur 1 oz. fresh pineapple juice 1 oz. fresh lemon juice

Dehydrated orange or other citrus wheel, for garnish

1. Wet half of the rim of a coupe glass with a lemon wedge and dip into

Cindy Crawford and Randy Gerber

Black Lava Salt mixture.

2. Combine tequila, liqueur, and pine-

apple and lemon juices in a cocktail shaker. Add ice, shake vigorously, and strain into glass.

3. Add fresh ice and garnish with citrus wheel.

Smoky Halloween Colada

Randy Gerber and partners George

Mezcal gives this creamy take on the

established Casamigos as a house-

ble ice, which you can get from some

Clooney and Michael Meldman have hold name for all things agave. Their

annual party is the West Coast’s hottest costume ball, attracting guests

pinã colada a smoky backbone. Pebsupermarkets, is ideal, but you can also use crushed ice.

with names like Justin, Leonardo, and

1 lime wedge

recipes to help you raise your Hallow-

½ oz. grenadine

Zoe. Here, Gerber shares advice and een party game.

T H E M E I T : “We like to pick a great

theme,” Gerber says. Past parties have been themed around disco and psychedelic, inspiring guests to get creative with costumes. That way, they “become part of the decor.”

I N V I T E T H E E C L E C T I C : “Curate a great guest list. My guest list is an

Black Lava Salt mixture 2 oz. Casamigos mezcal ¾ oz. fresh lime juice

¾ oz. fresh pineapple juice ¾ oz. cream of coconut

¾ oz. Liber & Co. ginger syrup

Dehydrated orange or other citrus wheel, for garnish

1. Wet half the rim of a tiki or hurricane glass with lime wedge and dip into Black Lava Salt mixture.

eclectic group of people, some who

2. Pour grenadine directly into the bot-

bers, old friends, and new friends.”

3. Combine mezcal, lime and pineap-

come from out of town, family mem-

D I A L I N T H E D R I N KS : “Always serve cocktails to guests when they walk in

so everyone has a drink in hand. All of our mixes are made fresh at the par-

ties, but depending on the event, you

can pre-batch so people don’t have to wait for drinks.”

SU N S ET • TH E TRAVEL ISSU E 2022

tom of the glass.

ple juices, cream of coconut, and

ginger syrup into a tin shaker. Add

ice, shake vigorously, and strain into glass.

4. Add pebble or crushed ice, making sure to fill to the top, creating a

dome-like shape. Garnish with citrus wheel.

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: CASAMIGOS; THOMAS J. STORY (2)

Black Lava Salt For a spooky black garnish, mix ¾ cup Hawaiian black lava salt with ¼ cup sugar, and pour on a saucer or small plate.

Unbox the West

Unbox the West The Sunset Subscription Box delivers the Best of the West straight to your door! Every three months, you’ll get a box full of home, design, food, and gardening products curated by Sunset editors to help you make the most of every season. You can choose the box that fits your style and price point, then get ready to be surprised and delighted by what you find inside! Our next box is devoted to the holidays and will be full of products perfect for entertaining, gifting, and filling the season with cheer. It’s the perfect way to give the gift of the West to family or friends.

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Our premium edition of our upcoming holiday box will include festive and iconic enamelware mugs from Northern California-based Crow Canyon as well as other seasonal products made in the West and beyond.

8/11/22 1:22 PM

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8/11/22 1:21 PM

HOME

GARDEN

A Space For All Seasons

This Seattle courtyard is the perfect example of how to create a multifunctional patio—no matter the size of your outdoor space. Story by D EAN NA KIZ I S Photographs by TH O MAS J. STO RY

TH E TRAVEL ISSU E 2022 • SU N S ET

you ask landscape designer Scot Eckley to point to his best work, the small garden courtyard with outdoor living space that he created for one Seattle couple is it. “This is a little garden where every decision counts,” says Eckley, noting he’s so proud of it he brings new employees to check it out. “It’s a garden where we have multifunctional spaces, and no detail wasn’t considered. It’s just really thoughtful and cohesive.” The clients, Yann and Angie Christensen, a software architect and a crime-victim advocate, respectively, wanted Eckley to make the most of their small entry space of 507 square feet. On their list: screen the front patio off from the busy street, create a new entryway for the house itself, add

an outdoor living room with a fire pit, and include a “spa deck” for Yann where he could bring his laptop and work during the day. As a result, this garden is like a Bento box in which each piece fits together just so. Meanwhile, Eckley’s attention to the smallest details—from the garden views while seated at the fire pit to screening the front door without enclosing it—can be seen throughout. One thing this garden is not, however, is “pretty” in a conventional way. Contrasting tones are used in both the hardscape and the plantings, and brutalist materials like concrete and steel give the space an edge (albeit one softened with textural plants like Mahonia ‘Soft Caress’ and Fatsia japonica). “You don’t hire us because you want a ‘pretty garden,’” Eckley says. “You hire us because we will create an incredible outdoor space that’s super functional and comfortable, and is beautiful on the crappiest, gloomiest, wettest day of the year.” Here, Eckley breaks down the elements that tie this small space together, with tips on how anyone can emulate his principles in their own yard.

An Outdoor Room with a View Eckley didn’t want people looking down at the

ground, so he elevated the plantings in gunmetal steel raised beds, which gave the outdoor living room an eye-level view. “The space was de-

signed to be really rich when you’re sitting down,” he says, “because that’s the way you’re going to appreciate the garden most of the time.”

TIP: To lift the eye in your garden, low beds or planters at 2 feet high or less will give you eye-level views of your plants when sitting down.

The Plants Are Saying ‘Hi’ Since guests have to walk by the out-

TIP: For a smallspace entryway, consider lightly screening it while creating a moment of visual interest. “The mirror ball planters block your view and create a boundary at the front door,” Eckley says, “but it’s like those little planters are greeting you.”

door living room to get to the front

door, a row of pavers leads the way. To create a small foyer of sorts, Eckley

hung silver orb planters that catch the light but don’t completely wall off the space from the rest of the garden.

Landscape designer Scot Eckley wanted to create a space that was “super functional and comfortable.”

TH E TRAVEL ISSU E 2022 • SU N S ET

A Carefully Planned Escape The Christensens wanted to use the available square footage to create more living space out-

doors. They also wanted a way to beat the heat in the summer.

TIP: Use walls, screening fences, and bamboo to create privacy from the street and adjacent homes. If heat is a concern, consider locating your outdoor living room in the shadow of your home.

“Yann and Angie really conceived of this garden as a respite—a

way to get away from the sun

here in July and August,” Eckley

says, noting that the house itself, not the plantings, created the

bulk of the shade they needed. The street, meanwhile, is a

mere 10 feet away from the edge of the fire pit, so creating extra privacy was a concern. Eckley

addressed this by adding over-

lapping concrete walls, punctu-

ated by a well-placed Japanese maple.

Compare and Contrast Dark tones are very on-trend right now.

But that doesn’t mean the look is gloomy— quite the opposite. To contend with the darkness of Seattle’s rainy days, Eckley

created contrast with plantings of ferns and hostas that pop in bright green

shades against darker backdrops. Textural plants like Japanese forest grass spill out

of steel planters to add drama to the look.

SU N S ET • TH E TRAVEL ISSU E 2022

TIP: “To see if your plant plan works, take a black and white picture of your plantings,” Eckley says. “You’ll immediately see if there’s good contrast in color, size, leaves, and texture.” He adds: “If it looks good in black and white, it’s going to look good when you plant it.”

Keeping It in Perspective TIP: To create a sense of perspective, “use backdrop screens and plant plants with really big, bold textures right in front of them,” says Eckley. “This will make the plants appear to advance toward you.”

One of the things Yann wanted was a spa-like

area in a corner, but the

couple also wanted it to

be open to the rest of the garden. “They had these

dreamy concept images of very lush places you’d

see in Bali,” says Eckley. To give the space its own

identity, he added lighter

wood tones and used perspective to add depth. (In one brilliant detail that

tricks the eye, Eckley used cedar for a screen with

gunmetal steel behind it and textural plants in front.)

To give a deeper insight

into this idea, Eckley waxes poetic in the best possible way: “Think about if we were standing next to

each other in Seattle, and

we were looking out at the view to infinity,” he says.

“The things closest to us would have texture, the

things further away would have less, and then we’d

hit the horizon where ev-

erything turns blurry and

gray. … We provided really high-contrast colors between plants, and con-

trasted that with the backdrop to add depth.” A

unique perspective on

garden design, indeed.

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WT: XXX PF: XX ZO: XX

Everything in its Place. When it comes to a well-designed home, we usually give credit to the obvious: A beautiful living room, a functional kitchen, or an inviting bedroom are the likely suspects. But what really creates a sense of day-to-day ease and beauty are the hardworking areas in between—those spaces that get little applause but do the heavy lifting. Imagine having a laundry room with dedicated places for folding and ironing, or a well-organized mudroom where there’s a designated spot to stash stray shoes and bags. Creating such areas was paramount for Camille Styles, our Sunset Idea House partner, when designing her Malibu home—so, she called in the experts at California Closets to help her custom-design spaces that would enhance her every day life with optimized storage to complement her coastal aesthetic. The founder and editor-in-chief of her eponymous site, Styles sought function, ease, and beauty when collaborating on her primary bedroom closet, laundry room, and mudroom. “When considering these hardworking spaces of my home, I envision a feeling of calm, serenity, and deep satisfaction from knowing everything has its place,” says Styles. “These spaces can now bring an ease to how our family functions.” The intersection of beauty and organization is where California Closets meets every client, including Styles. A pioneer in premium space management, the company delivers custom-designed organizational solutions for any and every corner of the home in a way that is uniquely personal. No detail is too obscure. No design request too high. There’s an emphasis on collaboration to make every space feel like its own. Instead of a one-size-fits-all approach, the tailor-made solution pays off for years to come. Because homeowners are looking for ways to enhance existing spaces, design consultants often see untapped potential and come up with ideas to optimize every inch, which adds to the overall value of the home.

page

Carefully selected finishes and accessories are incorporated into designs that reflect functionality and style.

It was this detail-rich precision that spoke to Styles for her Malibu home, which she’ll be sharing with her husband and two children. Styles admittedly has a “strong personal design aesthetic,” but she sought California Closets’ expert counsel. “I’ve learned from experience in my previous homes that the depth of a drawer, the placement of a handle, and the height of a cabinet can make all the difference when it comes to the efficiency of a space,” says Styles. “These spaces in our beach house have a modest footprint, and we’re expecting a lot out of them!” Styles’ mudroom, for instance, will be the spot to “hang up wetsuits, kick off sandy shoes, and store beach gear and sunscreen,” while also providing garage and guest storage. “Every inch matters and I knew from working with California Closets on previous projects that their professional design consultants are geniuses when it comes to maximizing every bit of usable space and making a small area function like one that’s much larger.” As efficient as every organizational detail is, the aesthetics are equally as critical. To honor Styles’ pursuit of a serene and calm vibe “inspired by the rocky beaches, sand, water, mountains, and grasses” of Malibu, the California Closets team considered every detail, from the colors to the metals, as part of its focus on a palette of carefully selected finishes and accessories. Styles’ Malibu abode celebrates what a truly beautiful home needs to be: a textured, considered, warm space to live in, anchored by timeless design and hardworking organized spaces—that deserve all the praise.

CAL

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YE RINK MOK

Caleb and Natalie Ebel, founders of Backdrop paint company, applied their best-selling white shade for an instant upgrade to their Los Angeles patio.

YOUR

FA LL GARDEN CHECKLIST What to do in your garden now, no matter where you are in the West. Story by D EAN NA KIZ I S

PLANT For abundant indoor blooms, try

Thanksgiving cactus (Schlum-

bergera truncata), whose birdlike

flowers come in orange, pink, violet, and white.

Grow containers of mint on a

sunny windowsill, using fresh

sprigs for cooking, as garnishes,

and to make tea. Mint is available in many different flavors—look for

seedlings later, scatter a few wildflower seeds in a nursery flat for reference.

M A I N TA I N If houseplants stretch and grow

leggy and spindly, they need more light. Gradually move them to a

sunnier situation, such as an eastor north-facing window.

Trap fungus gnats that plague

apple, chocolate, ginger, and

household plants by putting a

and spearmint.

below a light left on overnight.

pineapple, as well as peppermint

Sow wildflower seeds in weeded

beds for spring blooms. So you can tell wildflowers from weed

mixing bowl filled with soapy water Dump out the bowl and the bugs in the morning.

Check for standing water in the

garden. Where you find it, dig

H A RV E S T Make holiday decorations from

drainage channels or convert the

the garden: citrus and apples

moisture lovers like Gunneras,

ters in foliage wreaths; grape and

area to a rain garden, filling it with rushes, sedges, and dwarf willows. Throw weeds, spent flowers, and

vegetable waste into a compost

bin at least 3 feet wide and high.

spiked with cloves; rose-hip cluswisteria vines twisted into festive shapes; eucalyptus pods, pine-

cones, and acorns in magnolialeaf garlands.

Turn and water the pile occasion-

PROTECT

post by spring.

cover beets, carrots, turnips, and

ally, and you’ll have finished com-

Apply liquid fertilizer to winter-

blooming houseplants lightly at

flowering time, but wait until spring growth begins to feed other kinds.

If you get freezing temperatures,

other root crops with a foot of

leaves or straw to protect them,

extending harvest for a month or more.

T HT EH ET RHAOVME EL I S S U E 2 0 2 2 • S U N S E T

A Fresh Start If you haven’t heard of the online

paint company Backdrop, you should familiarize yourself. After all, nobody

likes wading through samples—there are just too many colors—so Back-

drop has a pre-edited selection that keeps things simple. Which is why,

when founders Natalie

and Caleb Ebel rehabilitated their Los Angeles

patio, they did what they do best: repaint.

Cute DIY Plant Propagator

“Our bestseller is Su-

permoon, so we painted the outdoor spaces in

that pure white,” Natalie says. “It

WHY SPEND MONEY TO GROW NEW CUTTINGS WHEN YOU CAN MAKE A PROPAGATOR WITH STUFF YOU HAVE AROUND THE HOUSE?

brightened everything up, and now

the outdoor space looks brand new.” Here, Natalie’s tips for creating an

outdoor living room, dining room, and

balcony that serve as functional fam-

WHAT YOU NEED

ily and entertaining spaces:

4–5 yogurt or baby food jars Garden twine Scissors

A plant to propagate A ruler

1 Double Take

Shop Till You Drop

Go Modular

room, Natalie bought two of

in the middle of the pan-

functions as an outdoor the-

To create an outdoor living the same couches and

faced them toward one another. “This creates a lot of balance, and it’s great for entertaining,” she says.

Because she was shopping demic, almost all the outdoor furnishings and accessories came from CB2, save some hand-me-downs from her

parents. Natalie didn’t order everything from the same

The outdoor living room also ater; Natalie bought a pro-

jector, and the couches are modular so they can be swung around to face a white wall.

Clean out your jars and remove any labels. You want the sun to be able to reach your plant, which will help the roots grow faster, and you don’t want your cute station to look like, well, old jars.

your jars and lay them out on the 2 Take table. Cut a long length of twine that will leave you with about 4 inches between each jar after you tie the knots.

at the bottom and loop the twine 3 Start around the lip of each jar with a double

collection, however. “This

way,” she says, “nothing looks

knot. Work your way up to the top, then tie a loop. Cut off any excess twine.

like it came as a set.”

get plant cuttings, look for the node— 4 To a small protrusion that will turn into

Color Cohesively

Stay the Course

Entertain in Style

features furniture from CB2.

with color (the bottle-green

over to enjoy the patio. “We

An outdoor dining room also “The style I wanted was very

Mediterranean to reflect the Spanish-style home,” says

Natalie. “That meant keeping a lot of neutrals and bringing in color through accents.”

Although she may be great accents with the black and

white on the patio is particularly inspiring), one thing Natalie isn’t is a green

thumb, so she left the original plantings.

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The Ebels like to have friends always have something to

snack on like olives and salty chips and anything that

goes well with a cold glass

of wine,” Natalie says. “Just 10 minutes out here can totally recharge me.”

water to each jar. (Be careful not to 5 Add overfill!) a spot in your home to hang your 6 Find new plant propagator. You want a place that gets bright, indirect light. (Don’t hang it in a window or your plants will burn.)

Once you’ve hung it up, pop in your new 7 cuttings.

FROM LEFT: YE RINK MOK (2); DEANNA KIZIS

roots—between each leaf or set of leaves. (I used a satin pothos.) Make a clean cut with sharp scissors or pruning shears until you have one cutting per jar.

it, and you end up with all this micro-

fauna in your soil. And if you know exactly what you want to end up with— say, a native grassland—you could

even lay a drip irrigation grid under the mulch to help break that cardboard

down. You can do that yourself or there are all kinds of people that will help. Then what?

What I tell people to do is to get a dryerase board and to think about the

space they want. As in, what do they

want that space to do? Is there a dog

that’s going to run around all through

it? Will kids want little pathways to run around in? Are there areas where you maybe want to have an herb garden

or vegetable garden? Can you do borders of natives to create a buffer for wildlife? Spend a few weeks thinking

about it and start to build your plan. Do you recommend specific plants? Because they’re native plants, every

place has different needs. But people

can simply look up “native plant nurs-

ery” in their region. It might take a little sniffing around, but they exist in California, Oregon, and Washington.

That’s part of what makes it special. The beauty of creating a garden

Time for a Change

based on the indigenous plants of

your biome is that you’ll have a powerful sense of place. You really begin to

WHY YOU SHOULD REPLACE YOUR LAWN WITH NATIVE PLANTS.

understand where you live and you’ll move away from these generic gar-

With drought conditions continuing in the West, many of our thoughts

dens that come from big box stores,

have turned to replacing our lawns—and doing so with native plants has become something of a movement. After all, they provide food and habitat for native, beneficial species, they sequester carbon, and they are naturally and uniquely adapted to the regions in which they belong.

Lawns, meanwhile, are not well-suited to our environment. They play

a role in the loss of biodiversity, consume an enormous amount of re-

sources, and provide little benefit, according to David Newsom, founder of Wild Yards Project in Los Angeles. The good news is that we have a giant opportunity. Newsom shares how to get started.

What’s the first step for growing a

thing. You can use old boxes, or you

Get rid of your lawn, and that’s a sim-

you cover that cardboard with about 3

native garden?

ple process. You want to tear it out.

Depending on the kind of person you

are, you can do it yourself, or you can

DAVID NEWSOM

hire people like me to help you get out the grass. You take the grass out, and then you want to flush it with water a

couple of times, get a little more grass

to come up, remove that. And then you cover it with cardboard—the whole

can buy the rollout cardboard. And

to 5 inches of mulch—a good organic fine mulch. Next, begin to just hand

water that once a day and get that

mulch to start to break down, and that will remediate your soil and create a nice healthy blank slate for you. Why is cardboard beneficial?

It breaks down beautifully—worms love

David Newsom, a scrappy landscaping evangelist to anyone interested in native plants, created the garden above. Newsom started Wild Yards Project to help folks transform their yards into native habitats.

which are basically the result of a lot of genetic tinkering and pesticides. What

you’re doing is actually creating spaces that are indigenous not just to your

area but to your location. So if you live

on a south-facing full-sun slope, you’re going to have a different garden than someone who’s on a north-facing slope that used to be an oak woodland.

It seems like that’s the barrier to en-

try: getting people to understand that they need a native plant nursery.

I have a friend who worked with a big advertising agency in Detroit, and he

wrote to me asking for a list of the top

10 native plants for America. I was like, that’s hilarious! Because obviously,

what’s native to Detroit is not going to

be native to Arizona. That specificity is beautiful.

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LOVE YOUR O W RK

WRITER-PRODUCER MARA BROCK AKIL’S GORGEOUS CONTEMPORARY OFFICE IN LOS ANGELES IS A CREATIVE HUB FOR WORK AND PLAY, AND THE IDEAL BACKDROP FOR AN INTIMATE DINNER PREPARED BY ANOTHER WEST ADAMS NEIGHBORHOOD STAR, CHEF KEITH CORBIN.

Story by CH RI STI N E LE N N O N

Photographs by TH O MAS J. STO RY

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ara Brock Akil likes to say that her office in historic West Adams reminds her of a Phyllis Hyman song. Assured, feminine, and suedesmooth—it’s easy to see the parallels between the classic R&B singer’s sultry voice and lyrics and Brock Akil’s modern, mood-lit writer’s den. Built around a small courtyard, with ample garden space and lounge areas, and designed in collaboration with Night Palm interior design studio founder Tiffany Howell, it’s a fresh take on Hollywood glamour. And thanks to two fully stocked kitchens, it’s the ultimate spot to host what Brock Akil likes to call her “Muse Dinners,” gatherings of creative minds and open hearts around a table filled with nourishing food. “For most of my career, I’d eat out of Styrofoam and plastic containers for lunch, like everybody else,” says Brock Akil, who created the television shows Girlfriends, Being Mary Jane, and The Game. “I can’t do that anymore. Food has to be on a plate now. I’m treating myself like a human being. And human beings are capable of creating great bodies of work. My office comes from a core belief. I’m supposed to be doing my best work in this space. So, I started by asking, ‘What is inspiring to me?’”

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Night Palm’s Tiffany Howell designed Mara Brock Akil’s office and writers’ colony in a space built around a small courtyard in the West Adams neighborhood of Los Angeles. Howell worked with Portola paint to custom-blend a blush pink shade (Brock Akil’s signature color) for the walls. Most of the furniture, which channels 1970s Hollywood, is vintage.

The first answer to that inspiration question is easy: location. Brock Akil grew up visiting with her grandmother’s friends around Los Angeles’ West Adams neighborhood, and has positive, happy memories of the community. “This street was so familiar to me,” she says. “I was born in Compton and my grandparents settled in Baldwin Vista, so this feels like coming home. I like being one of the first creatives here on the block. I know it’s changing and there are politics around the developers coming in. But I’m here. I’m claiming this space.” Believe it or not, it was the olive tree in the tiny courtyard that first captured her attention, not the address. When she was looking at photos of potential locations for her production company, Story27, and an adjacent writers’ colony for emerging voices that she supervises, this space jumped out of the stack before she was even aware of its whereabouts. “When I found out it was in this neighborhood, I cried,” she says. “I’m clear about my personal mission, my heart’s desire, and then to land back home where I spent my childhood? It was clear to me that this was my home.” Once the decision was made to move in, Brock Akil enlisted the help of Howell after seeing the work the designer did for their mutual friend, actor Laura Harrier, on Instagram.

Brock Akil hosts Muse Dinners in the space to gather other creatives around a table filled with nourishing food.

Los Angeles flower shop Lily Lodge created the centerpiece for this Muse Dinner, the perfect complement to Brock Akil’s goatskinwrapped table.

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Some of the guests gather around stools near a lacquered Willy Rizzo bar that anchors the writers’ colony common room.

Howell’s design strategy was rooted in a palette of caramel, cream, cognac, and terracotta. Chef Keith Corbin, who’s at the helm of nearby restaurant Alta Adams, prepared a delicious spread for this Muse Dinner, and we’ve got the recipes on the following pages. Corbin’s memoir California Soul: An American Epic of Cooking and Survival was recently published by Random House.

When the two women finally connected in person, it felt like another moment of kismet. Howell knew exactly how to help Brock Akil harness that feminine power to create a workspace unlike anything either of them had seen before. Howell’s design strategy, rooted in a palette of caramel, cream, cognac, and terracotta, added warmth and femininity to the angular, somewhat industrial-feeling bones of the building. “Tiffany is brilliant with color,” says Brock Akil, who notes that Howell helped her incorporate her signature color, blush pink, in the contemporary design. “The color is a part of my story going back to my grandmother. I was in her house one day and I went to the bathroom and looked at the counter, and that was the color. I’m drawn to it because it feels like love. She always made good food for us and showed us love. She took great care of herself and us. I’m attracted to it because it’s part of my story. The cognac and the clay colors, the cinnamon and the blush. I can sit at my desk and look at the beautiful wallpaper, and notice the light on my desk, and just kind of bask in all of it.” The walls are covered in this very shade, which Howell custom-blended with Portola paint. The furniture, which is mostly vintage, channels 1970s Hollywood by way of Italy, Howell’s favorite design era and heavy on curvilinear forms and sexy, low sofas, which she returns to again and again. “Like that bar that broke the Internet,” Howell says of a pink, lacquered Willy Rizzo bar that anchors the writers’ colony common room, which has been a show-stopper on Howell’s Instagram page since she first posted it. “That’s from ma+39 [furniture shop] in Los Angeles. They know to pick up the hotline and call me when something like this comes in.” For this Muse Dinner, the chef was none other than Keith Corbin of the acclaimed West Adams restaurant Alta Adams, which The Hollywood Reporter recently called “Black Hollywood’s top restaurant.” The late ’60s goatskinwrapped table was set with Heath Ceramics plates; copper flatware from

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Hawkins, New York; pale rose linen napkins; and a lush centerpiece of white flowers from Lily Lodge, Brock Akil’s favorite florist. “To see how happy Mara was that night, and all of the guests come in who were so blown away, that made me really happy. When I see my projects come to life in such a joyful and beautiful way, that’s my greatest reward,” says Howell. “When people walk in here, like our dinner guests did, their eyes light up,” Brock Akil agrees. “They’re noticeably lighter, happier. I can see the pride in my employees, too, and I notice it in their work.” When Brock Akil, Howell, and the intimate group of friends they’ve gathered sat down at the table for a vegetarian soul food meal prepared by Corbin, work was the farthest thing from anyone’s mind. “The perfect dinner party is a blend of complimentary flavors and people and conversation,” says Brock Akil. “Everything just works. And deep, beautiful memories are made.”

To cap off the evening, chef Keith Corbin served a gluten-free mixed berry tart from Winter Fate Bakes for dessert.

WEST ADAMS REVIVAL

Alsace LA Hotel

The neighborhood surrounding Brock Akil’s office, formerly known as the Sugar Hill Arts District, was a bustling hub of activity for Black artists and creators from the ’40s to the ’60s. In recent years, it’s seen a surge of development and attention by creative types who’ve filled the storefronts and restaurants with fresh energy and great design. Here are a few of our favorites.

The iconic independent record label that introduced the world to Tone Loc, Young MC, and The Pharcyde has been in business for 30 years. The founders opened Delicious Pizza as a hub for the community. DELICIOUSPIZZA.COM

Alsace LA Hotel

When this 48-room hotel opened in 2021, all hopes of the design district staying under the radar were dashed. Decked in creamy upholstery and warm terracotta accessories, it’s an oasis of calm in a vibrant community. ALSACEHOTELLA.COM

Alta Adams & Adams Wine Shop

Chefs Keith Corbin and Daniel Patterson promise an inclusive setting, comforting food, great cocktails and a lively atmosphere, and they deliver on all fronts. Their interpretation of soul food, a collision of West African flavors and California cuisine, is as satisfying as it gets. Next door, the Adams Wine Shop focuses on bottles produced by women and BIPOC creators from around the world. ALTAADAMS.COM

The Global Trunk

A visit to Guatemala inspired owner Josetta Sbeglia and her niece, Cathy Benavides, to open a cheery

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storefront for sustainable, Fair Trade, responsible home goods and textiles showcasing the handiwork of the community. THEGLOBALTRUNK.COM

MIZLALA

This Mediterranean grill, serving modern Moroccan/Israeli food, cranks out pillow-soft pita, spit-roasted chicken, kebabs, and Jerusalem salad in three locations across L.A.—but the West Adams outpost was the first. MIZLALA.COM/ WESTADAMS

Peace Awareness Labyrinth & Meditation Garden Three days a week, visitors can walk the

gardens and labyrinth at the headquarters for the Movement of Spiritual and Inner Awareness. $6, RESERVATIONS REQUIRED; PEACELABYRINTH.ORG/ TOURS

Ray Charles Foundation Memorial Library

Ray Charles’s former recording studio and office are West Adams–adjacent, but still part of the neighborhood’s heartbeat. Fans can stroll past his gold records and iconic outfits. BY APPOINTMENT; THERAYCHARLESFOUNDATION. ORG/MEMORIAL-LIBRARY

Free Bike Tour

On the first Sunday of the month at 11 a.m., Adopt-A-Bike founder and Realtor Jose Prats leads curious cyclists on a free tour of the neighborhood, which includes a brief history of the area. (And maybe a few new listings?) CHECK OUT @ WESTADAMSBIKETOUR ON INSTAGRAM

Band of Vices Gallery

A self-described “art and culture company” committed to providing a platform to marginalized creative communities, these gallery spaces showcase a curated

exhibition program. Check out the events calendar for an updated list of happenings. BANDOFVICES.COM/ GALLERIES

Kneeland Co.

Shop owner and textile expert Joanna Williams is a purveyor of exquisite handmade goods she’s gathered during her global travels. None of it is cheap, but most of what she offers is one-of-a-kind and worth the splurge. BY APPOINTMENT; KNEELANDCO.COM

ALSACE LA HOTEL: THE INGALLS

Delicious Pizza by Delicious Vinyl

THE RECIPES California Gombo

Gombo Sauce

Chef Keith Corbin layers the flavor in

2 tsp. minced ginger

this vegetable-forward vegan gombo

(which is the Louisiana Creole spelling

2 Tbsp. vegetable oil 6 cloves garlic

1 red Fresno chile, quartered

seasoning

8 medium asparagus, cut in 1-inch pieces

½ lb. sugar snap peas, cut in half

and thinly sliced

¼ medium head of Napa cabbage, cut

thinly sliced

12 baby carrots, cut in half lengthwise

2 large shallots, quartered lengthwise

charred seasonal vegetables add

¼ lb. okra, quartered lengthwise and

S E R V ES 6

1½ tsp. dark chili powder

crunch and color.

2 Tbsp. kosher salt, plus more for

lengthwise and thinly sliced

of gumbo). Red miso gives the profound broth depth, while quick-

Charred Vegetables

Kosher salt to taste

5 cups vegetable stock 1 Tbsp. red miso Juice of 1 lime

crosswise

into 1½-inch slices

4 scallions, cut in 1 inch pieces 1 Tbsp. vegetable oil

6 cups cooked white rice

1 cup pea shoots, roughly chopped, for garnish

¼ cup mint leaves, torn, for garnish

1. Make the gombo sauce: In a large

pot over medium heat, heat oil until shimmering, about 3 minutes. Add

garlic, ginger, Fresno chile, shallots, okra, chile powder, and salt. Cook

until tender, stirring occasionally, 10 to 15 minutes. Add vegetable stock and simmer until thickened, about

45 minutes. Remove 2 cups of vegetables and liquid, transfer to a

blender, and blend until smooth. Return mixture to the pot and simmer about 15 minutes more. Whisk in

miso and lime juice and season with salt to taste.

2. Make the charred vegetables: Bring

a medium saucepan filled with wa-

ter to a boil. Season with kosher salt. Working in batches, blanch vegetables quickly until crisp-tender.

Spread vegetables out on a sheet pan to cool.

3. In a large pan over high heat, add oil

and heat until smoking, about 2 minutes. Working in batches, char vegetables slightly, about 2 minutes.

4. To serve, put 1 cup of white rice in a

large bowl and flatten with the back

of the scoop. Ladle gombo sauce on top. Top with charred vegetables.

Garnish with pea shoots and mint leaves and serve.

TRAVEL ISSU E 2022 • SU N S ET

Candied Yam Gratin with Brown Butter and Pecans This buttery, super-rich, show-stopping dessert will satisfy any crowd. S E R V ES 1 2

5 lbs. yams or sweet potatoes 1 cup granulated sugar ½ cup brown sugar

½ tsp. ground nutmeg

1½ tsp. ground cinnamon 1 Tbsp. salt

2 Tbsp. butter

4 cups almond milk

1½ cups brown butter Candied Pecans 1 egg white

4 cups chopped pecans, plus more for garnish

1 cup sugar

1 tsp. ground cinnamon 1 tsp. salt

Brown Butter–Almond Milk

Deviled Eggs

filled halfway with water and bake

for 1½ hours, or until yams are tender.

5. Transfer yams to a refrigerator and

Savor this elegant and herbaceous

cool overnight. Remove from the pan

take on everyone’s favorite appetizer.

and cut into 3-by-1½-inch slices.

M A K ES 1 6

6. Make the candied pecans: Reduce

8 large eggs, hardboiled and halved

oven heat to 325°F. Whisk the egg

3 Tbsp. mayonnaise

white in a large bowl until frothy, then add the pecans and mix. Add the

sugar, cinnamon, and salt, and stir to combine. Spread pecan mixture on a baking pan lined with a nonstick silicone baking mat and cook at

325°F, stirring every 10 minutes, until it is browned and crisp but not burnt, about 30 minutes.

7. Make the brown-butter almond milk:

Combine brown butter, milk, and salt in a saucepan over medium heat

and cook until hot, about 3 minutes.

8. Remove gratin from the refrigerator.

Oil a griddle and sear gratin slices in batches over high heat until

browned, about 2 minutes a side. Place two pieces in a bowl, add

brown butter-almond milk, garnish with pecans and Maldon salt.

2017 DESERT WIND CABERNET SAUVIGNON ESTATE GROWN WAHLUKE SLOPE COLUMBIA VALLEY This elegant red is instantly satisfying, delivering well-knit tannins and a lingering finish that pairs perfectly with chef Keith Corbin’s gombo. It’s part of this month’s Sunset Wine Club. Learn more at sunset. com/wineclub

2 tsp. Dijon mustard

1 tsp. Champagne vinegar 1½ tsp. chopped chervil

1½ tsp. chopped tarragon ½ tsp. cayenne pepper Kosher salt, to taste Paprika

1 Tbsp. minced chives

1. In a medium bowl, add egg yolks

and use a fork to mix until smooth.

Set a side egg whites. Add mayon-

naise, mustard, vinegar, chervil, tar-

ragon, and cayenne pepper, and mix well to combine. Season with salt to taste.

2. Spoon egg mixture into egg whites. Dust with paprika and garnish with minced chives.

1 cup brown butter 1 cup almond milk 1 tsp. salt

Maldon salt, for garnish Canola oil for searing

1. Peel and thinly slice the yams. 2. In a medium bowl, mix the sugars, spices, and salt. Rub butter on the

inside of a deep baking dish. Place a piece of parchment paper at the

bottom and layer yams in an over-

lapping pattern. Sprinkle some sugar and spice mixture evenly on top of

the yams. Add another layer of yams and sugar and spice mixture.

3. In a medium pan over medium heat, heat the almond milk and brown butter until hot, about 3 minutes. Pour this mixture over the yams.

4. Preheat oven to 350°F. Put a piece of

parchment on top of the baking pan and put another baking dish the

same size on top. Put a weight inside the top baking dish, such as a brick

or a small cast-iron pan. Place bak-

ing pan on a larger, deep-sided tray

TH E TRAVEL ISSU E 2022 • SU N S ET

FARM AND

AT AN OFF-THE-GRID RETREAT IN NORTHERN CALIFORNIA, AN ARCHITECT AND A GALLERIST HAVE CURATED A MODERN, RUSTIC GETAWAY WHERE THE REAL LUXURIES ARE THOUGHTFUL DESIGN, THE ABSENCE OF TECHNOLOGY, AND AN ABUNDANCE OF TIME. Story by H U G H GARVE Y Photographs by TH O MAS J. STO RY

AWAY

country house can be a time machine. At least that’s how Todd Hosfelt sees it: “When you come here, time slows down. One day can feel like a weekend. A weekend can feel like a week. When you go back to the city, you feel like you’ve been away forever.” It’s easy to see why Hosfelt says that when you look out over the rolling hills and valleys of the property in Lake County, California, that he and his husband, Louis Schump, have transformed from a working walnut farm into a weekend getaway from San Francisco. Timeless, or at least ancient, is one way you could describe the view from the deck: There’s no sign of any other home in any direction, no sound of traffic, just the rustle of a breeze through the grass. Coastal live oaks dot the hills. A striking boulder, moved here eons ago by glacial force, juts out of one hillock and is surrounded by smaller boulders and stones that have peeled off over time. Some of them line the winding paths that arc past the walnut trees, one serves as a step up to the deck, another is the floor of the outdoor shower. Hosfelt runs Hosfelt Gallery in San Francisco. Schump is an architect at global powerhouse Gensler. Together the two creatives have curated a country getaway that is, yes, as old as the ages, but also entirely new. “We’re used to doing things custom,” says Hosfelt. “We’re willing to take chances and be experimental and are not interested in the conventional.” The resulting second home combines agricultural vernacular references, a low-tech cabin vibe, vintage modernist furniture, lots of art, and just enough creature comforts to make it cozy while still feeling removed from the reminders of modern life. There’s no TV, no electricity, no WiFi, no gas. Wood fire supplies the heat. Kerosene lamps illuminate the space at night. The wind is the air conditioner. Combined with the stunning natural setting, the property is a work of art in itself—a conceptual and spiritual practice that the term “country house” doesn’t quite accurately convey. The path to this agrarian getaway began nearly 14 years ago when the couple started an exhaustive search for a second home within driving distance of San Francisco, tracing roads and exploring the coast and mountains of Northern California. On one of their early sojourns, Hosfelt saw a plot of land that contained the hallmarks of the prototypical California landscape of rolling hills and old oaks. He said to Schump: “I want to live somewhere like this.” Some six years later,

SU N S ET • TH E TRAVEL ISSU E 2022

Todd Hosfelt and Louis Schump transformed a working walnut farm into this Lake County getaway made out of Steelmaster corrugated modular building systems.

The open living room features Bertoia and Jens Risom lounge chairs, a Cornelius Völker painting, and a bison hide rug.

The bunkhouse is equipped with Ikea bunk beds and Czech Republic army surplus blankets from a local flea market, plus pegboard that serves as an acoustic deadener and, by nature, a place for hanging all manner of decorative or functional objects.

the plot went up for sale and the couple bought it. And so began a very intentional, highly considered build-out of the 21-acre property. Bisected diagonally by a seasonal creek, the property has two halves: One is very flat with a working walnut orchard that serves almost as a sculpture garden in fallow months. The other is rolling grassland and those classic old California views. One of their first projects was to build a small structure for their well, pump, and tractor. They settled on a corrugated modular building system called Steelmaster and created a barn while they studied the land and contemplated how to construct the main dwelling. They considered stick-built construction and shipping containers but liked their little barn so much they decided to use Steelmaster again. The upsides: They could enclose the largest amount of space for the least amount of money; any construction crew could execute the simple build; steel was relatively fire safe. And, Hosfelt points out, it’s actually agricultural,

and therefore authentically vernacular.” The downsides: no insulation. “It’s a bit like living in a tent,” Hosfelt adds. But that’s exactly the sort of detail that inspired Hosfelt and Schump to get creative with solutions that are both practical and artful: They heat the space with wood-burning stoves, including a massive Italian cookstove that not only provides roaring heat and cooked meals, but is also a handsome, brooding focal point in the airy steel space. Schump designed two Steelmaster buildings with a redwood deck in between. One building is the “cookhouse,” while the other is the “bunkhouse.” In the cookhouse, there’s a simple pegboard kitchen and an open living room filled with art and vintage pieces they’ve gathered over the years, including Bertoia and Jens Risom lounge chairs. The bunkhouse comprises a bathroom, a sleeping loft, and the primary bedroom. Both structures have huge, rolling barn doors made of steel and polygal that open completely onto the deck, where in the summer a canopy of camo netting

A 1960s metal bookcase was sourced from Stuff vintage shop in San Francisco. The antlers, found on the property, sit in an heirloom wooden bowl.

TH E TRAVEL ISSU E 2022 • SU N S ET

The space is heated by a massive, wood-burning cookstove from La Nordica. Vintage copper was collected piece by piece.

A Stefan Kürten painting hangs above an Amesti Rondo 450 stove. The coffee table was used by Hosfelt’s father as an army footlocker.

offers shade. The floor is painted white so that when all the walls are open to the air, the interior of the structure glows, picking up the sun in the day and the gleam of the lanterns and the stove at night. Rather than build a driveway up to the dwelling, they intentionally set the parking area far from the main building to ritualize the arrival and shed whatever they came from: the city, or work, or traffic, or worries. They park near the barn where they

SU N S ET • TH E TRAVEL ISSU E 2022

first imagined a perfect retreat from the modern world. “We unload the car into a wheelbarrow, trundle through the orchard, cross a footbridge over the creek, and follow a path that curves around an ancient oak and a huge boulder,” says Hosfelt. At the end of the walk is their house and its perfect view up Bachelor Valley. “We arrive and are in a completely different world and state of mind.”

“When you come here, time slows down. One day can feel like a weekend. A weekend can feel like a week.”

TH E TRAVEL ISSU E 2022 • SU N S ET

WT: XXX PF: XX WT: ZO:XXX XX PF: XX ZO: XX

page

78 78

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8/18/22 10:03 PM

FOOD

DRINK A Slice of the West

Renowned pizzaiolo Daniele Uditi shares the secrets to billowy, charred pizzas that expertly blend the traditions of Italy and regional flavors. Story by H U G H GARVE Y Photographs by TH O MAS J. STO RY

TH E TRAVEL ISSU E 2022 • SU N S ET

When chef Daniele Uditi moved to California from Italy 10 years ago, he was accompanied by a secret companion. In his suitcase, he’d hidden a container of his family’s sourdough starter, a living, growing, flavor-improving treasure known in Italian as a crescere, the critical ingredient in transcendent pizza dough. Born of the ambient yeast of Naples, the spiritual seat of perfect pizza, this crescere became the foundation on which Uditi refined his craft as a pizzaiolo, absorbing the culinary influences of California, its farmers markets, its produce, and its multicultural foodways, eventually producing the billowy blistered crust

served at Pizzana, the restaurant chain he helms with Candace and Charles Nelson, the culinary entrepreneurs behind Sprinkles Cupcakes. The sleek Pizzana restaurants are the minimalist backdrop for Uditi’s vibrantly topped, expertly baked pies. Take, for example, his elote pizza, an homage to his Mexican wife: Adorned with charred corn, spicy mayo, cotija, Oaxaca cheese, and cilantro, it channels all the flavors of Los Angeles street corn, albeit with Neapolitan flair. His sole d’oro is topped with peak-season Sungold tomatoes, dressed with garlic, shaved zucchini, squash blossoms, and an herbaceous hit of fresh mint instead of the usual basil, and tastes like a freewheeling weekend visit to the farmers’ market. In pizzas such as these, Uditi has developed a formula that’s a perfect balance of Southern California and Southern Italy, with all of the technique but none of the orthodoxy. Here, we present a masterclass in Uditi’s next-level West Coast pizza perfection.

Daniele Uditi’s Pizza Best Practices

Don’t toss your dough:

Tossing does nothing to make pizza better. It’s show-offy at best and will lead to torn crust at worst. Stretch it by hand on the counter to make sure your crust has an even and consistent thickness from edge to edge.

Always use a pizza stone:

You’ll never get the crunchy bottom crust if you cook your pizza on a sheet pan. Preheat the stone in your oven at 500°F a good halfhour before cooking. For super crunchy crust, turn on your broiler to get the stone extra hot five minutes before you cook your pizza.

Don’t over-top your pizza:

Too much moisture is the enemy of pizza and overtopping your crust will make it soggy. Throw on just enough toppings to get a perfect mix of each ingredient in every bite. You want some of the crust visible in between the toppings.

Put the cheese on last:

Most cheeses cook faster than dough, so only add your cheese three to five minutes before the pizza is fully cooked.

Cool your pizza on a rack:

Immediately transfer your cooked pizza to a wire rack. If you put it on a wooden pizza peel or board, that crisp bottom you worked so hard for will steam and get soggy before you can enjoy it.

Finish with oil:

For extra richness and flavor, drizzle your pizza with extra-virgin olive oil once it’s out of the oven. If you add it at the beginning, it will smoke and develop a bitter taste.

Pizza Dough M A K ES 4 – 5 B A L L S F O R 12-INCH PIZZAS

7 2 3 cup King Arthur bread flour or 0 or 00 Caputo flour

2¾ cup water, at room temperature 1 Tbsp. active dry yeast 2 Tbsp. sea salt

1. Add the flour and water in a large

mixing bowl. Using your hands, combine the ingredients until the mixture

comes together, approximately 10–15 minutes. Let rest for 30 minutes.

2. Dissolve the yeast in ¼ cup lukewarm

water. Add this liquid to the flour mixture. Using your hands or a stand

mixer, knead the dough until all the liquid is fully integrated into the

dough, approximately 3–4 minutes.

3. Once the yeast is fully absorbed,

add sea salt and continue mixing either by hand or with the stand mixer. The process of kneading should last

10–15 minutes to start developing the gluten, which yields pillowy stretchy dough.

4. Cover the dough with plastic wrap and let rest for at least an hour at room temperature.

5. Use a dough cutter to divide the dough into 4 to 5 ball

shapes. Place each ball of

dough on a tray under plas-

tic wrap or in a covered plastic container and let proof at room temperature for 5–6 hours. The balls of dough should double in size.

Neo Margherita “The Neo Margherita was one of the

first pizzas I created at Pizzana,” Uditi says. “While I’ll always love a classic

margherita, I wanted to play with tra-

2. While the oven preheats, prepare the dough. Dust a clean countertop with flour to prevent the dough from sticking.

dition and find a way to reinterpret it

3. To stretch the dough, start by press-

sil crumb topping ensures that every

using your fingers to flatten the cen-

for an entirely new experience. The babite has an infusion of basil flavor, and we invert the construction so the tomato ‘sauce’ is actually a reduction

push the dough out from the center to form the crust, leaving a 1½-inch pizza. Stop when the dough is approximately 12 inches in diameter.

M A K ES 1 1 2 - I N C H P I Z Z A 1 Tbsp. semolina or all-purpose flour, for dusting surface

1 Pizza Dough ball (see recipe at left) 4 oz. fior di latte or fresh mozzarella 3

ter. Continue to gently press and

rim around the circumference of the

featured on top of each slice.”

ing down in the center of the ball,

cup double-concentrated San

Transfer it from the countertop to a floured pizza peel.

4. Using your hands, tear the fior di

latte or mozzarella into pieces approximately 2 inches in diameter.

Disperse evenly across the dough.

Marzano tomato paste

Add large dollops of tomato paste

¼ cup grated Parmigiano Reggiano

over the pizza. Sprinkle on the Parmi-

2 Tbsp. dried basil, blended into a

giano Reggiano.

powder using a spice grinder or

5. Using the pizza peel, transfer the piz-

blender

za to the pizza stone. Bake 7–9 min-

4 leaves fresh basil, torn in half

utes. No need to rotate the pizza

Extra-virgin olive oil, for garnish

halfway through.

Maldon salt, to taste

6. Top the pizza with basil powder, fresh

1. An hour before cooking, place pizza stone in oven and preheat to 500°F.

basil leaves, a drizzle of olive oil, and Maldon salt to taste.

TH E TRAVEL ISSU E 2022 • SU N S ET

Sole d’Oro

dough. To keep the zucchini from

“The Sole d’Oro is a tribute to Sungold tomatoes, one of my favorite varieties of

curl slices so they don’t lie perfectly

tomatoes,” Uditi says. “They are a type of cherry tomato, but with a slightly

tropical flavor that is really beautiful both raw and cooked. This pizza features both, along with zucchini blossoms and zucchini ribbons that add extra dimension.”

M A K ES 1 1 2 - I N C H P I Z Z A ¾ cup Sungold tomatoes, halved 1 garlic clove, finely chopped

3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for garnish

Pinch of Maldon salt

1 Tbsp. semolina or all-purpose flour, for dusting surface

1 Pizza Dough ball (see recipe on previous page)

3 baby zucchinis, sliced ¼-inch thick 6–8 zucchini blossoms

2½ oz. fior di latte or fresh mozzarella 2 Tbsp. grated Parmigiano Reggiano 3–4 oz. burrata (1 standard ball) 3 basil leaves, torn in half

Freshly ground black pepper

1. An hour before cooking, place a

pizza stone in oven and preheat to 500°F.

2. While the oven preheats, combine tomatoes, garlic, olive oil, and a

pinch of salt in a small bowl. Stir

with a spoon and let marinate for 15–60 minutes.

3. Dust a clean countertop with flour

to prevent the dough from sticking. To stretch the dough, start by

pressing down in the center of the ball, using your fingers to flatten

the center. Gently push the dough out from the center to form the

crust, leaving a 1½-inch rim around

the circumference of the pizza. Stop when the pizza is approximately 12

inches in diameter. Transfer it from the countertop to a pizza peel.

4. Drape the sliced zucchini over the

SU N S ET • TH E TRAVEL ISSU E 2022

making the crust soggy, twist and flat. Layer the blossoms over the

zucchini slices. Add half the mari-

nated tomatoes, allowing liquid to drain back into bowl.

5. Transfer the pizza from the peel to

the pizza stone. Bake at 500°F for 6 minutes.

6. Remove the pizza from the oven. Use your hands to pull the fior di

latte or mozzarella into pieces approximately 2 inches in diameter. Disperse evenly across the pizza

and then scatter the grated Parmigiano Reggiano over the surface.

7. Return pizza to oven and bake an

additional 3–4 minutes to allow the cheese to melt.

8. Remove the pizza from the oven.

Finish it with the remaining tomatoes. Scoop the burrata onto the center of the pizza, allowing it to ooze slightly out. Scatter basil

leaves across the top of the pizza.

Finish with salt and freshly ground

pepper to taste and a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil.

Freeze Frame Frozen pizza is a culinary convenience we can get behind, particularly when an eightminute bake in the oven yields Daniele Uditi’s classic margherita, pepperoni, or creamy cacio e pepe. Order frozen pies from Pizzana at goldbelly.com

ELOTE “My wife is Mexican, so I created the

Elote pizza as a tribute to her and her heritage,” Uditi says. “I love that this

pizza balances the smoky heat of chipotle in adobo with sweet corn and

the salinity of fresh feta. While it’s an unexpected combination, to me it’s the perfect marriage of flavors.” M A K ES 1 1 2 - I N C H P I Z Z A FOR THE RANCHERO SAUCE 2 Tbsp. olive oil

2 red bell peppers, thinly sliced

1 medium yellow onion, thinly sliced

3. Remove mixture from heat and

2 chipotle peppers from chipotles in adobo

¼ cup loosely packed cilantro leaves Juice of 2 limes

¼ tsp. kosher salt

¼ tsp. freshly ground black pepper FOR THE PIZZA

1 ear fresh sweet corn

1 Tbsp. semolina or all-purpose flour, for dusting surface

1 Pizza Dough ball (see recipe on previous spread)

½ cup Ranchero Sauce

½ cup Oaxaca cheese (provolone or a dry mozzarella also works)

¼ cup Chipotle Mayo

2 Tbsp. cotija cheese Juice of 1 lime

8 cilantro leaves

1. To make the ranchero sauce, heat

olive oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the bell pepper and onion and cook until soft, stirring occa-

sionally to avoid burning, about 7–9 minutes.

2. Season the bell pepper and onion with salt and pepper and add the chipotle pepper and water to the

pan. Continue to cook over medium heat, bringing the water to a boil, then lower the temperature and

simmer about 5 minutes, until the

water has reduced by half, leaving approximately ¼ cup in the pan.

form the crust, leaving a 1½-inch

blend until smooth.

rim around the of the pizza. Stop

5. To make the pizza, first remove corn-

when the pizza is approximately

husk and all stray cornsilk. Set a gas

burner on medium-high heat. Using a pair of long kitchen tongs, sear

corn over the flame, being careful to rotate so as not to burn the kernels. You want the surface to be lightly

charred; this will take 1–2 minutes.

Remove from heat and let cool be-

fore cutting the kernels from the cob with a knife. Set aside.

7. While the oven preheats, prepare the

1 cup mayonnaise

dough out from the center to

all ingredients in a blender and

1 chipotle pepper from a can of

FOR THE CHIPOTLE MAYO

ten the center. Gently push the

4. To make the chipotle mayo, combine

6. An hour before cooking, place pizza

chipotles in adobo

the ball, using your fingers to flat-

speed until creamy.

¼ tsp. kosher salt

¼ tsp. freshly ground black pepper

pressing down in the center of

transfer to a blender. Blend over high

stone in oven and preheat to 500°F.

dough. Dust a clean countertop with flour to prevent the dough from sticking.

8. To stretch the dough, start by

12 inches in diameter. Transfer it

PERFECT PA I R I N G

2021 CASA MAGONI SANGIOVESE CABERNET VALLE DE GUADALUPE

Pizza is the right dish to eat with this bold, fruit-forward, and instantly satisfying Cab, part of our Sunset Wine Club. Learn more at sunset.com/ wineclub

from the countertop to a pizza peel.

9. Spoon the ranchero sauce over

the dough, leaving 1½ inches from the edge. Scatter the Oaxacan cheese and the roasted corn evenly over the pizza.

10. Transfer the pizza from the peel to the pizza stone. Bake at 500°F for 7–9 minutes. Remove the pizza from the oven.

11. Add teaspoon-size dollops of chipotle mayo across the pizza.

Sprinkle evenly with cotija cheese. Squeeze the lime juice over the pizza. Garnish with cilantro.

Steamed Eggplant With Soy Sauce and Garlic RECIPE ON NEXT SPREAD

Very

Chinese, Very Vegan CHE: ELIZABETH CHE

Introduction by SU N S ET STAFF

IN HER NEW COOKBOOK, CHEF HANNAH CHE EXPLORES THE PLANT-BASED TRADITIONS OF CHINESE CUISINE WITH RECIPES THAT ARE HEALTHY, SUSTAINABLE, AND RICH IN HISTORY.

an veganism go viral? If anyone can accomplish that in the world of Chinese cuisine, it’s Hannah Che. Hailing from Portland and now based in Taipei, Taiwan, the chef, photographer, food stylist, and author has made a name for herself chronicling her adventures in vegan Chinese cooking across her blog and social channels. Watch her drool-inducing Instagram videos (@hannah.che) of nori-wrapped tofu pan-fried and glazed in sticky teriyaki sauce or fluffy black-sesame buns emerging fresh from the steamer, and you, too, will join the 100,000-plus social acolytes showering “likes” on her posts of plant-forward, photo-worthy, and above all delicious approach to Chinese cooking. While Che’s evangelization of vegan cooking is on trend, the traditions and recipes from which she

Photographs by HAN NAH CH E

takes inspiration are as old as the ages. Vegan Chinese cooking has its roots in Buddhist zhai cai culinary philosophy, in which seasonal vegetables are prepared with umami-rich dried shiitake mushrooms, deeply flavored black vinegar, and briny fermented black soybeans, with an added layer of complexity often coming from wok hei, the distinctive smoky char imparted by high-heat wok cooking. Dishes from this tradition and more are included in her new book, The Vegan Chinese Kitchen: Recipes and Modern Stories From a Thousand-Year-Old Tradition: A Cookbook (Clarkson Potter; $35), a vital and inspiring resource for any serious cook who wants to add more plant-based dishes to their repertoire. Here, we’ve excerpted her excellent vegan versions of Chinese classics for you to recreate in your home kitchen. SUNSET • TH E TRAVEL ISSU E 2022 •

U S PA G E

Steamed Eggplant With Soy Sauce and Garlic “Steaming is my dad’s favorite way to prepare eggplant,” Che writes. “He

usually seasons the eggplant with soy sauce, a tremendous amount of

minced raw garlic, and sesame oil, but I like to add a splash of dark Chinkiang

vinegar to mellow the garlic notes and sugar and to edge it toward a more sweet-and-sour taste.”

Blistered Dry-Fried String Beans

SE RVES 4 SAUCE

1 fresh red chile, seeded and finely chopped

3–5 garlic cloves, to taste, minced 3½ Tbsp. soy sauce 1 tsp. sugar

1 Tbsp. Chinkiang black vinegar ½ tsp. toasted sesame oil

1 lb. Chinese or Japanese eggplants

“In the original dry-frying method, the green beans are slowly cooked in a dry pan until their skins

2 Tbsp. thinly sliced scallions, both

the shriveled, oil-blistered exterior people have come to associate with the dish. Yacai is a finely

1 tsp. ground chile or chile flakes

markets in recent years and is a key ingredient in Sichuan dishes like dan dan noodles. If you can’t

1 Tbsp. vegetable oil

find it, omit it or replace it with 1 Tbsp. fermented black beans, coarsely chopped.”

1. To make the sauce, combine all the

S E RV E S 4

them with a spider strainer or skimmer and

Set aside.

SAUCE

remaining string beans. Pour the oil into a

your steamer. Bring approximately 1½

1 Tbsp. Shaoxing wine

(about 3 small)

wrinkle, but restaurants almost always deep-fry the beans, which is more efficient and generates

green and white parts

chopped Sichuan preserved vegetable that has become more widely available in Asian super-

sauce ingredients in a small bowl.

2. Cut the eggplants into pieces to fit in

cups water to a boil in a wok or skillet

Dash of white pepper, ground

size of your wok or skillet), then cover

Vegetable oil, as needed

(amount will vary depending on the with a steamer on top and steam

the eggplants for 10–12 minutes, until the skin is wrinkled and the flesh is

no longer chewy or spongy but ten-

14 oz. string beans, ends trimmed, beans longer than 3 inches cut in half

STIR-FRY

der enough to pierce through with a

5 or 6 dried chiles, snipped into ½-inch pieces

from the steamer, drain any excess

3 garlic cloves, minced

enough to handle, about 5 minutes.

1 tsp. whole Sichuan peppercorns, or ½ tsp.

strips you can pick up with a chop-

2 Tbsp. minced Sichuan pickled greens (yácài)

chopstick. Remove the eggplants

water, and set them aside until cool

3. Tear the warm eggplant into long

and seeds shaken out

1 Tbsp. minced fresh ginger

ground Sichuan peppercorns

stick and place them in a bowl. Pour

Kosher salt, to taste

the scallions and ground chiles on

1. To make the sauce, stir together all ingredi-

in the sauce mixture and then place top.

4. Heat the oil in a small saucepan over

1 tsp. soy sauce

ents in a small bowl.

2. To cook the beans using the deep-frying

high heat until shimmering and

method (fastest): Heat 2 cups oil in a wok over

over the eggplant and aromatics to

chopstick forms a steady stream of bubbles

bine. Serve immediately, or chill be-

the oil and fry until the skins are blistered and

nearly smoking, then pour the hot oil

high heat to 350°F, until a wooden or bamboo

release their flavors. Stir well to com-

when inserted. Drop half the string beans into

fore enjoying.

slightly shriveled, about 2 minutes. Remove

SU N S ET • TH E TRAVEL ISSU E 2022

drain them on paper towels. Repeat with the heatproof container and reserve for another use.

3. To cook the beans using the dry-fry method: Heat a wok or skillet over high heat, add 1

Tbsp. oil, and swirl to coat the surface of the wok. Immediately reduce the heat to low.

Working in batches, place the beans in the

wok in a single layer and let them cook, with-

out stirring, until they are wrinkled and dry on the bottom, about 5 minutes per side. Re-

move them from the wok, set aside, and repeat with the remaining green beans.

4. To make the stir-fry, heat 2 Tbsp. oil in a wok

over high heat until the oil is shimmering. Add the dried chiles, garlic, ginger, and Sichuan

peppercorns and stir-fry until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the cooked string beans to the

wok along with the pickled greens, and stir-fry briskly to combine. Add the sauce mixture,

pouring it down the hot side of the wok to release the flavor, and toss with the string

beans a few times until the liquid has mostly

evaporated and the beans are piping hot and coated in the seasonings, about 2 minutes. Taste and add salt if needed (usually the

pickled greens are salty enough), then transfer to a dish and serve immediately.

FROM

1. Soak the mushrooms in a small bowl of hot water for 30 minutes to rehydrate, then drain, stem, and finely chop them.

2. In a medium pot, bring 4 cups of

salted water to a boil. Reduce the

heat to low, add the tofu cubes, and simmer gently for 10 minutes to re-

fresh the tofu’s flavors and firm it up.

3. Make a slurry by combining the po-

tato starch with ¼ cup cold water in a small bowl. Stir until smooth and set aside.

4. Heat a wok over medium heat until a bead of water evaporates immedi-

ately upon contact. Add the oil, swirling to coat the sides of the wok. Reduce heat to low. Add the whole

Mapo Tofu

Sichuan peppercorns and dried chiles, and stir-fry 1–2 minutes to infuse

the oil with flavor, until the chiles are slightly darkened in color and aromatic. Do not burn them. Remove

from the heat. Using a slotted spoon, remove and discard the spices,

leaving behind the aromatic oil.

5. Return the wok to medium-high heat and add the mushrooms, ginger,

“I learned how to make the vegetarian

SE RVES 4–6

uanese chef, who explained that the

4 or 5 dried shiitake mushrooms

mented black beans, chili bean paste,

14–16 oz. firm tofu, cut into ¾-inch

ground red chiles—everything else

1 Tbsp. potato starch

take mushrooms in place of the

2 tsp. whole Sichuan peppercorns

version of the dish from Chef Li, a Sich-

PERFECT PA I R I N G

2020 BRIAN DAVID PINOT NOIR RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY

Blistered string beans meet their match in this Pinot, an ideal Russian River example of depth and complexity that’s part of the Sunset Wine Club. Learn more at sunset. com/wineclub

four essential ingredients are the ferground Sichuan peppercorns, and

Scoot them up one side of the wok.

6. Add the fermented black beans, chili bean paste, and ground chile, and stir-fry briefly for 10 seconds to re-

cubes

was negotiable. He used minced shiiground beef and taught me to thicken

5 dried red chiles, cut into ¾-inch

slurry, until the tofu was suspended in

1 Tbsp. fresh ginger, peeled and

red peppercorns in oil and ground up

1 Tbsp. fresh garlic, minced

a silky, viscous sauce. We toasted fresh

mushrooms are beginning to brown.

Kosher salt

3 Tbsp. vegetable oil

the dish with three rounds of starch

and garlic. Fry for 1 minute, until the

lease their fragrance. Pour in the stock, then add sugar and soy

sauce. Bring the liquid to a boil. Lift the tofu cubes from the hot water

with a slotted spoon and place them

segments and seeds shaken out

gently in the wok. To keep them from breaking, don’t stir; instead, move

minced

the wok in a swirling motion, shifting

more peppercorns to sprinkle on the

1 Tbsp. fermented black beans, rinsed

sensation.”

2½ Tbsp. Sichuan chili bean paste

dish for the famous numbing

and coarsely chopped

1 tsp. ground Sichuan chile or chili flakes

1 cup unsalted stock of any kind, or

For more plant-based recipes from Hannah Che, pick up a copy of The Vegan Chinese Kitchen at your local independent bookseller or online.

water

½ tsp. sugar

1 tsp. soy sauce

2 scallions, green parts only, thinly sliced, for garnish

½ tsp. ground Sichuan peppercorns

the sauce as it bubbles under the tofu. Bring to a full boil.

7. Give the starch slurry a stir and drizzle about a third of it into the wok,

swirling the wok gently to mix in the

slurry as the liquid thickens. Repeat

this two more times, until the sauce

is glossy and clings to the tofu, then remove the wok from the heat and

transfer everything to a serving dish. Sprinkle with the scallions and the

ground peppercorns (these provide the tingly mouthfeel), and serve.

TH E TRAVEL ISSU E 2022 • SU N S ET

ON A BUCOLIC FARM IN LAKE COUNTY, CALIFORNIA, A RARE SPICE IS LOVINGLY CULTIVATED, DRIED, AND PACKED BY A DEVOTED CADRE OF CROCUS OBSESSIVES. WE JOIN THIS COMMITTED CREW AT THEIR ANNUAL HARVEST FEAST FOR A VIVID ARRAY OF DELICIOUS DISHES AND DRINKS. Story by H U G H GARVE Y Photographs by TH O MAS J. STO RY

A SAFFRON HARVEST FEAST

It’s not often that a chef and a farmer are able to sit down to dinner and enjoy the fruits of their combined labor.

But that is exactly what’s happening at Peace & Plenty Farm in Kelseyville, California, on this early autumn day. Chef Arnon Oren and farmers Melinda Price and Simon Avery are in a former horse paddock strewn with bales of hay for seats, slabs of wood from fallen trees covered with plates, and platters of dishes tinged yellow and gold by saffron grown right here on this picture-perfect property ringed with white fences in a valley of small farms and low-slung houses. Today they have assembled a few friends to enjoy last year’s bounty before this year’s harvest commences. Roasted chicken glistens gold upon gold, deviled eggs bedevil with yolks as yellow as the sun, and poached pear galette, warmed in the oven, is draped with a melting dollop of saffron-tinged vanilla ice cream. It’s this dessert that got the chef to finally take a seat and savor a bite of his own food. This will be the most leisurely dinner of the next two months for Price and Avery, as the harvest is only weeks away and the busiest time of their year will overtake every waking minute. When they raise a glass of grapefruit, gin, and saffron syrup, and toast one another’s good fortune, you know they mean it. Peace & Plenty is a rarity in the world of saffron, as most of the saffron you find in stores comes from the Mediterranean and the Middle East. Of the handful of small farms growing saffron in the United States, Peace & Plenty is the largest and best known, though in the world of domestic saffron “large” is a relative term. For most of the year, Price and Avery tend to the farm with a few helpers, bringing on interns to help during harvest. Oren is an alum of Chez Panisse and the proprietor of Anaviv, a catering and culinary events company, and cooks pop-up dinners at Peace & Plenty. While the rise-and-sleep-by-the-sun pace of agriculture puts a premium on time, saffron might be even more demanding. The flower Crocus sativus plays hard to get, living bulb-like under the ground and dormant for much of the year, punching through the dirt and flowering for just a few

SU N S ET • TH E TRAVEL ISSU E 2022

Most of the saffron you find in stores comes from the Mediterranean or the Middle East, making California-based Peace & Plenty Farm a rarity in the world of this spice.

weeks in early autumn, giving up its pistils to those with enough patience to wait and enough fortitude to work the harvest that requires endless stooping, plucking, separating, and drying the spice in a sprint. This exceptional amount of labor accounts for a fair part of the $5,000-perpound price this culinary delight demands. By color alone, saffron is the essence of ethereal, the delicate stigma and styles of the flower are a deep crimson, though it stains fingers and food a vivid gold. The crocus flowers from which it’s plucked each fall are contrasting light purple in hue. As an ingredient saffron beguiles, too. Its flavor is equally elusive when infused into water or oil or butter, imbuing both savory and sweet dishes with honeyed, earthy, and floral notes, tasting of hay, a little pungent, but lingering and layered and ultimately luxurious. Enjoy its beauty on these pages and in these recipes.

Saffron Grapefruit Fizz A LIGHT AND EFFERVESCENT COCKTAIL THAT’S PERFECT FOR AN EARLY AUTUMN PARTY. MAKES 2 COCKTAILS 2 oz. gin 4 oz. grapefruit juice 2 oz. saffron simple syrup (see recipe on next page) 4 oz. prosecco

1. Combine the gin, grapefruit juice, and saffron simple syrup in a shaker filled with ice. Shake briefly. 2. Strain evenly into two Champagne flutes or coupes. 3. Pour prosecco over top and serve.

TH E TRAVEL ISSU E 2022 • SU N S ET

Saffron Deviled Eggs Saffron aioli turns the yolks a sunset yellow. Use extra aioli as a sauce for chicken, fish, or sandwiches. It will keep in the refrigerator for a week. S E R V ES 4

5–10 saffron threads 1 egg yolk

Kosher salt

1 cup olive oil

4 hard-boiled eggs, peeled and sliced in half lengthwise

1 tsp. chopped brined capers 1 Tbsp. chopped cornichons 2 Tbsp. chives, divided 1 tsp. diced shallots

1. Place the saffron in a skillet and

bring to medium-high heat. Gently

toast until the skillet is too hot for you to touch the center with your finger, about 1–2 minutes.

2. Transfer the saffron to a mortar and pestle, and grind it into a fine powder.

3. Pour 3 Tbsp. of slightly warm water into the mortar. Set aside.

4. To make aioli, place the egg yolk in a medium bowl and add a pinch of

salt. Whisk the yolk and start to driz-

zle the olive oil in very slowly. The yolk

and the olive oil will start emulsifying. Continue to whisk vigorously. When it starts to get thick, pour a very small

amount of the saffron liquid into the

aioli to soften it and continue whisking. Keep adding olive oil until it

thickens again. Add more saffron water to your liking.

5. Remove the cooked yolks from the

whites. Set aside egg white halves. In a medium bowl, smash the yolks

with a fork until smooth. Add the ca-

pers, cornichons, half the chives, and shallots. Mix well.

6. Add 2 to 4 tablespoons saffron aioli

and mix well. For more saffron flavor, add more of the aioli. Salt to taste.

7. Spoon the saffron-egg yolk mixture into the egg white halves, and garnish with remaining chives.

Saffron Simple Syrup THIS IS AN EASY WAY TO PRESERVE THE ESSENCE OF THE SPICE. MAKES ½ CUP 5–10 saffron threads ½ cup water 1 cup sugar

1. Place the saf-

fron in a skillet and bring to medium-high heat. Gently toast until the skillet is too hot for you to touch the center with your finger, about 1–2 minutes. 2. Transfer the saffron into a mortar and pestle, and grind it into a fine powder. 3. Place water and sugar in a small saucepan and bring to a simmer over mediumhigh heat until the sugar dissolves. 4. Take ¼ cup of the warm syrup and pour over the saffron inside the mortar. Stir it around and pour it back into the saucepan. Let cool before using. Store extra syrup covered in the refrigerator for up to a month.

SU N S ET • TH E TRAVEL ISSU E 2022

Sautéed Rainbow Chard with Saffron Compound Butter

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1. To make the compound butter, combine butter and saffron powder in a

Infusing butter with saffron is a great

small bowl and mix until fully incor-

whatever you mix it with.

a piece of plastic wrap and roll into a

way to extend and transmit flavor to S E R V ES 4

COM POUND BUTTER

porated. Salt to taste. Place butter on small log. Chill for at least 2 hours. It will keep for 2 weeks, refrigerated.

2. To make the salad, roughly chop the

½ stick unsalted butter, room

chard leaves. Set a large pan over

10–20 saffron threads, toasted and

heat 2 minutes. Add the chard and

Kosher salt, to taste

water, cover with a lid, and cook until

temperature

medium heat, add the olive oil and

ground into a powder

cook, stirring occasionally. Add ¼ cup

2 bunches rainbow chard, stemmed and washed

2 Tbsp. olive oil

tender, about 10 minutes.

3. Season with salt and pepper. Serve

warm with a slice of the saffron butter on top.

Chicory and Beet Salad with Champagne Vinaigrette and Saffron Aioli Drizzle Bittersweet chicory and luscious

beets are napped with saffron aioli. S E R V ES 4 1 red beet

1 Chioggia beet 1 golden beet

2 dried bay leaves

½ cup plus 1 tsp. extra-virgin olive oil 1 medium shallot, finely diced ¼ cup Champagne vinegar Kosher salt

Black pepper, freshly ground ¾ cup extra-virgin olive oil

2 medium heads radicchio ½ orange, sliced Saffron aioli

1. Preheat the oven to 400°F. 2. Wash the beets well. Place the beets in a small ovenproof dish with 1 cup

water, bay leaves, and 1 tsp. olive oil. Cover with foil and roast until the

beets are soft when you put a knife through them, about 1½ hours.

3. In the meantime, prepare the vinaigrette. Place the diced shallot in a small bowl and pour vinegar over top. Season to taste with salt and

pepper, and let it sit for 10 minutes.

Add the olive oil and whisk thoroughly to combine.

4. Tear the leaves of the radicchio into bite-size pieces. Place in a large

serving bowl and transfer to the refrigerator until ready to assemble.

5. When the beets are cool enough to handle, peel and cut into ½-inch cubes.

6. Place the beets in a small bowl with

7. Whisk the vinaigrette well and toss with the radicchio. Top with the

½ cup olive oil. Add orange slices,

beets. Drizzle with saffron aioli and

and season with salt and pepper.

serve.

Autumn Vegetable and Chickpea Saffron Ragoût

1 large celery root, peeled and diced 1 medium butternut squash, peeled and diced

2 Yukon gold potatoes, peeled and diced

A rustic-luxe dish is shot through with the essence of saffron. S E R V ES 4

add the olive oil and onions, and

cook until soft, about 10 minutes. Add

2 yellow onions, diced

the garlic and cook 2 minutes more.

2 garlic cloves, peeled and roughly chopped

2. Add saffron, tomatoes, bay leaves,

with a mortar and pestle

3. Add cinnamon stick, all the vegeta-

5 saffron threads, toasted and ground

Perfect Pairing The Sunset Wine Club features the best bottles in the West, perfectly paired with these recipes and delivered straight to your door. Learn more at sunset.com/wineclub

Freshly ground black pepper

1. In a large pan over medium heat,

2 Tbsp. olive oil

2021 Chris Hamilton Cellars Rosé Napa Valley

Kosher salt

and thyme, and cook for 5 minutes.

4 roma tomatoes, diced

bles, salt and pepper to taste, and

2 Tbsp. fresh thyme, chopped

til vegetables are soft and slightly

2 dried bay leaves

cook, covered, for 30 minutes, or un-

1 cinnamon stick

but not too soupy. You may add a lit-

This is a rosé with gravitas that’s a great option for the beet salad. Wild strawberries and crushed stones abound with bright acidity and medium body.

tle water if needed.

2021 Voix de la Vigne Pinot Gris Willamette Valley

Drink this white wine with the sautéed rainbow chard. Pleasant acidity and a long finish mirrors the nose with peach skins and fresh stone fruit.

2019 Greg La Follette GLF Pinot Noir North Coast

A match for the vegetable and chickpea ragout, this wine has an ample body with richness and silkiness. It shows a great balance of energy and lift.

TH E TRAVEL ISSU E 2022 • SU N S ET

Chicken in Saffron Butter and Leeks Humble chicken thighs are ennobled by a saffron-tinged honey brine, creating a dish that’s by turns comforting and luxurious. S E R V ES 4

4 whole chicken legs BRINE

8 cups water

½ cup sea salt ¼ cup honey

2 bay leaves

4 cloves garlic

10 saffron threads, toasted and ground into powder with a mortar and pestle

BRAISE

1 bunch leeks

10 saffron threads, toasted and ground into powder with a mortar and pestle

2 dried bay leaves

1. To make the brine: In a medium pot,

bring 2 cups water to a boil and add salt, honey, bay leaves, and garlic

cloves. Reduce to a simmer, stirring

occasionally, and cook for 5 minutes.

Remove from heat, add saffron powder, stir to combine.

2. In a large bowl, combine brine mixture and remaining 6 cups water.

Add chicken legs, cover with plastic

wrap, transfer to refrigerator, and let sit 8–12 hours.

3. To braise the chicken: Preheat the

oven to 400°F. Cut the leeks into thin

circles and wash in water to remove grit. Place leeks in a large roasting

pan. Remove the chicken legs from the brine and place them, skin side down, over the leeks.

4. Bring ½ cup water to a boil. Add the

saffron powder and stir to combine. Pour the mixture into the roasting

pan. Add bay leaves and cover with foil. Roast for 45 minutes.

5. Remove the foil, turn the chicken legs skin side up, and roast until the

chicken skin is golden and crispy,

about 15 minutes more. Serve with the leeks and the juices.

SU N S ET • TH E TRAVEL ISSU E 2022

Poached Pear Galette with Saffron Ice Cream It’s best to poach the pears a day before making the galette. S E R V ES 4 FILLING

4 Bosc pears, peeled and cored 1 bottle red wine 1 cup water

1 cup sugar

1 pod star anise

4 juniper berries

4 allspice berries 1 cinnamon stick

½ lemon or orange DOUGH

2 Tbsp. sugar Kosher salt

1 cup all-purpose flour

6 oz. butter, cold and cut into cubes ¼ cup cold water

2 oz. melted butter, for brushing the galette

gently form it into a round ball, tak-

galette

in plastic wrap and chill for at least 1

2 tsp. sugar, for sprinkling on the Saffron Ice Cream (see recipe at right)

1. To poach the pears, combine all ingredients in a large pot. Bring the

mixture to a simmer over medium heat and cook until the pears are

soft when you put a knife in them, about 10–15 minutes.

2. Let the pears cool down in the liquid. Once no longer hot, transfer to the refrigerator and continue to cool,

ideally overnight. For the galette, cut them lengthwise into ¼-inch slices.

3. To make the dough, combine sugar,

ing care to not knead it. Wrap tightly hour.

5. Preheat the oven to 400°F. 6. Dust your counter with a little bit of flour. Using a rolling pan, roll the

dough into a long rectangle of pas-

try, about ¼-inch thick. Place the flat dough on a sheet pan lined with

flour. Arrange the sliced pears on the

dough, leaving about ½-inch from

the edge clear. Fold the edges of the dough to create a nice edge around the galette.

ing until the butter cubes become

9. Bake for about 35 minutes until gold-

ter until the dough comes together, but some small, pea-size chunks of butter remain.

4. Scrape the dough from the bowl and

2 cups heavy cream, cold 1 cup whole milk ¾ cup sugar Pinch of salt 20 saffron threads, toasted and ground to a powder with a mortar and pestle 5 egg yolks

1. Pour the heavy cream into

8. Brush the folded edge with melted

the size of peas. Slowly add the wa-

MAKES ABOUT 1 QT.

parchment paper.

7. Sprinkle the dough with a little bit of

salt, and flour in a mixer at medium

speed. Add the butter and keep mix-

Saffron Ice Cream

butter and sprinkle with sugar.

en brown on the edges. Remove the parchment paper and transfer the

parchment paper.

galette to a cooling rack, discarding

10. Serve warm with Saffron Ice Cream.

a medium bowl and keep cold in refrigerator. In a small pot over medium heat, warm the milk, sugar, and salt, and cook, stirring occasionally, until sugar is melted, about 3 minutes. Take ½ cup of the warm milk mixture and pour over the saffron in the mortar. Let steep for 3 minutes, then pour it back into the warm milk. Whisk the yolks in a medium bowl. Pour ½ cup of the saffron milk into the yolks, whisking

constantly, then pour entire mixture back into the hot milk pot to start creating a custard. 6. Cook the custard slowly, while stirring constantly, preferably with a wooden spoon, about 10–15 minutes. The custard is ready when it gets a little thicker and it coats the spoon. 7. Use a fine strainer to quickly strain the custard into the cold bowl of cream. Using the back of a spoon, press the saffron as much as possible into the cream. 8. Let the custard cool down completely. Leave the strainer in the cream to keep extracting the saffron color and flavor. When custard is cool, press saffron again to extract the last of the color and flavor, remove strainer, and churn custard in an ice cream machine 25–30 minutes. Freeze until ready to serve.

TH E TRAVEL ISSU E 2022 • SU N S ET

The New Cult Cabs

When it comes to cult Cabernet Sauvignon and other high-end juice from Napa Valley, “bargain” is a relative term—with bottlings from Screaming Eagle and Sine Qua Non topping $1,000. Fortunately for anyone looking for a cellar-worthy, special-occasion-ready bottle, a handful of wineries in the region are making exceptional Cabernet and other varietals sourced from stellar vineyards at a fraction of the price of the better-known brands. While the prices by no means take them into daily drinker territory, these wines are exquisite enough for cellaring. Be sure to sign up for their mailing lists to be one of the first to know when the bottles drop.

(And Other Napa Gems We’re Splurging On)

Get in on the ground floor of collectible wines with these bottlings from exceptional, lesser-known wineries. Story by H U G H GARVE Y

STALWORTH

PAS DE CHEVAL

IMPENSATA

VICE VERSA

Second-generation vint-

Napa winemaker Maayan

Another new brand by

Made by highly regarded,

orated the vineyard

Persson overcame several

is crafting cult Cabs at

2022 is Impensata. Merlot

based winemaker

Deal Booth in 2010 reinvigwhere the Heitz Cellar

Bella Oaks wines of the

’70s and ’80s were grown. To do so, she tapped Da-

vid Abreu, Michel Rolland, and Aussie cult-Cab

winemaker Nigel Kinsman. They only make one wine, so get on the list for the 2019 releases this fall.

ners Tim and Sabrina

cellar-destroying natural

disasters to produce Stalworth. It’s made by wine-

maker Celia Welch, whose name has become syn-

onymous over the last 30 years with some of the

most acclaimed wines in Napa Valley, including

Staglin and Scarecrow.

B o t t l e t o B u y:

2019 Bella Oaks Proprie-

2019 Stalworth Cabernet

$275; bellaoaks.com

stalworthwine.com

tary Red, Napa Valley.

Sauvignon. $250;

Koschitzky (whose day job Atelier Melka) and Master of Wine Vanessa Conlin

(who selects wines for the Sunset Wine Club!)

teamed up to produce

three expressions of Cabernet Sauvignon. Get on

the list to experience their 2019 debut vintages. B o t t l e t o B u y: 2019 Pas de Cheval Cabernet Sauvignon Inter-

Kinsman that debuted in is the star, and this is the only Merlot produced

from the legendary Ecotone Vineyard (formerly

Abreu’s Thorevilos Vine-

yard), located just below Howell Mountain.

B o t t l e t o B u y: 2018 Impensata Merlot, Napa Valley. $325; impensata.com

Bordeaux-born, Napa-

Philippe Melka, this opu-

lent and elegant Cabernet Sauvignon is made from a blend of grapes

from hillside vineyards in

Calistoga and St. Helena. B o t t l e t o B u y: 2019 Vice Versa Mysterons Cabernet Sauvignon.

$250; viceversawine.com

mezzo St. Helena. $250; pasdecheval.wine

Top Tasting Rooms THREE NEW AND NOTABLE NAPA TASTING ROOMS LEVEL UP THE OPTIONS FOR TOP-SHELF VINOUS EXPERIENCES IN THE VALLEY. Clif Family Winery’s sleek private Enoteca offers small groups an array of food and wine pairing menus, all served with views of the Mayacamas Mountains. Make reservations in advance at cliffamily.com

SU N S ET • TH E TRAVEL ISSU E 2022

The Salon at Heitz Cellar is located at the pioneering winery’s original St. Helena property and offers tasting flights, ample indoor and outdoor seating, and a side of history for guests looking for the long view on the valley. Make reservations in advance at heitzcellar.com

For loungey, kick-back vibes and organic and biodynamically farmed wines plus small bites, visit Brendel’s modernist tasting room (pictured at left) in downtown Napa. brendelwines.com

BELLA OAKS: ©SUZANNE BECKER BRONK; BRENDEL: HARDY WILSON

BELLA OAKS Preservationist Suzanne

Wine is your passion. Preserving it is ours.

wineguardian.com

Protect and properly age your collection of fine wines with the most trusted wine cellar cooling systems in the world. Wine cellar cooling by Wine Guardian Wine cellar design by Vineyard Wine Cellars Untitled-1 1

8/11/22 1:29 PM

West Essentials { OUR PICKS FOR WHAT’S ESSENTIAL IN THE WEST }

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Tempe – A Relaxing Getaway Plan an escape to Tempe for a little FunShine. Paddleboard on Tempe Town Lake, dine at a local eatery and relax poolside under our sunny skies. Treat yourself to a relaxing getaway to Tempe. VisitTempe.com

Yellowstone is more than a park. In Montana, it’s a whole country. Yellowstone is an entire ecosystem, and it doesn’t stop at the park boundary. Venture farther into Montana, and you’ll find many of the things you were looking for. visityellowstonecountry.com

Sweet Serenity Bring calm morning noon or night with Clover Sonoma Moon Milk, a delicious new blend of organic milk, herbs and spices to promote well-being and relaxation. Sip and enjoy all three nourishing flavors, or add a soothing splash to coffee, tea, smoothies and cereal. CloverTheMoon.com

8/14/22 5:23 5:21 PM

T R AV E L

ESCAPES

Trending Now 1. Coastal Gems

We predict a return to the beach as all-inclusive getaways grow

Your Next Great Getaway 100 ways to experience the West. © KEVIN STEELE/KEVSTEELE.COM

Story by SU N S ET STAFF

Consider this your “Go Now” Guide. With travel back in full swing, there’s plenty to discover—and not just the next great road trip, emerging foodie destination, or newly redesigned hotel. Exploration in the West is changing. People don’t want to just be tourists passing through; they want to immerse themselves in local culture and support community-run businesses. They’re seeking connection with strangers and their neighbors, whether around a table or on the trail. So, here’s to your next epic excursion. We’ve got plenty of ideas for making the most of your trip, even if it’s right next door.

in popularity.

2. Wine Country Winners

Viticultural exploration re-emerges after years of challenges.

3. The New Food Pilgrimage

Experiential dining spaces and over-

the-top tasting menus have become the norm.

4. Stress-Free Staycation

Rest and rejuvenation could be right in your own backyard.

5. A Sense of Place and Purpose

Don’t just be a tourist. Support the local community.

6. Epic Outdoor Getaways

Travelers continue to escape to the great outdoors.

TH E TRAVEL ISSU E 2022 • SU N S ET

invited for drinks at the onsite beach shack—and to take part in culinary

competition. dreaminnsantacruz.com I N N AT M O O N L I G H T B E A C H

This Encinitas getaway is WELL-certi-

fied, meaning it was built according to standards aimed at improving your

well-being through lighting, air quality, and more. Visit the biodynamic urban sage. innatmoonlightbeach.com T H E L O D G E AT B O D E G A B AY

Just in time for its 50th anniversary,

this rebranded escape offers the best of the Sonoma Coast: award-winning seafood, a hand-picked wine list,

ocean-inspired spa treatments, and a

rugged coastline teeming with wildlife. lodgeatbodegabay.com S C P D E P O E B AY

Timber Cove Resort

Cool Coastal Getaways

bohemian vibes, sound machines, esSTAY

D R E A M I N N S A N TA C R U Z

Throw it back to the ’60s at a surf-chic hotel near the Santa Cruz boardwalk, where you can rent complimentary beach cruisers. The whole family is

The salty sea air and rugged cliffs of the coast are calling. With many travelers looking to book relaxing vacations at places they never have to leave, we predict a massive return to beachfront escapes. Here are some of our favorite coastal hot spots.

Dream Inn Santa Cruz

SU N S ET • TH E TRAVEL ISSU E 2022

with a stay in one of these rooms,

which are imbued with Scandinavian-

Coastal Gems

The Oregon coast is at your fingertips

sential oils, teas, and more. scphotel.com/depoe-bay TI M B E R COVE RESO RT

Redwoods and the ocean converge on this 25-acre, pet-friendly historic get-

away in Jenner, where you can sip fireside drinks in the great room while local artists play jazz, blues, and folk music. timbercoveresort.com

FROM TOP: THE NOMADIC PEOPLE; PAUL DYER

farm or indulge in a moonlight mas-

Stunning Seaside Renovations

STAY

CA N N E R Y P I E R H O T E L & S PA

Jutting out hundreds of feet on the

Columbia River at the site of a former fisherman’s cooperative, this Astoria

hotel recently underwent a multi-mil-

lion-dollar renovation that brings local art and history to the forefront. cannerypierhotel.com

HOTEL JUNE MALIBU

TH E SEA RANCH LODGE

ticulous transformation, a Malibu mid-

part of the allure at the reimagined

Now open to guests after years of mecentury modern getaway—where Bob Dylan wrote Blood on the Tracks—

boasts stunning bungalows and a

heated pool. thehoteljune.com/malibu

A trio of refined dining concepts is only Sonoma County property where you

can mosey through a solarium—and all the way down to a meadow that kisses the ocean.

thesearanchlodge.com

Hotel June Malibu

Where to Go

Beautiful Beach City CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT: THE INGALLS; ALEXANDRA FISHER/UNSPLASH; THE SEA RANCH LODGE

H U N T I N G T O N B E A C H , CA L I F O R N I A

With a name like Surf City, it’s easy to see why this California town beckons families and

surfers alike. We’re celebrating recent efforts to make the beach more accessible for all. Visitors with disabilities, stroller-toting par-

ents, and others can make their way down a pair of mats that serve as a stable pathway across the sand. surfcityusa.com

The Sea Ranch Lodge

TH E TRAVEL ISSU E 2022 • SU N S ET

Rad Mexico Resorts

STAY

P L AYA V I VA

Hilton Los Cabos Beach & Golf Resort

You may have seen these iconic treehouses perched between the coast and Sierra Madre Mountains. But

there’s more to be explored at the re-

generative resort. Take part in beachside yoga or ride a 4x4 up to a neighboring farm. playaviva.com WA L D O R F A S T O R I A

L O S CA B O S P E D R E G A L

New at this Baja resort is the Agave

Study at Peacock Alley, a tasting experience of hand-picked Oaxacan spirits

ranging from tequila to mezcal. There’s also a nine-course taco concept

where you can eat your way through Mexico’s culinary regions.

waldorfastorialoscabospedregal.com H I LT O N L O S CA B O S

B EACH & G O LF R ESO RT

Plunge-pool suites with views of the

Sea of Cortez. A rum bar with cliffside

bungalows. A kids’ splash zone. These are only some of the amenities at the West Coast. hiltonloscabos.com C O N R A D P U N TA D E M I TA

Head to Mexico’s Riviera Nayarit for a casita-style stay in a suite with a

plunge pool, soaking tub, and outdoor shower. A new open-air restaurant offers locally sourced fare for dinner. conradpuntademita.com V I L L A L A VA L E N C I A

B E A C H R E S O R T & S PA

Billed as the home of the region’s lon-

gest lazy river, this new all-inclusive resort features four Spanish and Mexican restaurants, five bars, an infinity pool, and suites with up to four bedrooms. villalavalencia.com

SU N S ET • TH E TRAVEL ISSU E 2022

Where to Stay

Classic Coastal Charm N I C K ’ S C O V E A N D C O T TA G E S

An iconic Tomales Bay hot spot recently

got a refresh for the first time in 15 years. The cottages sport new furnishings and wallpaper, and the restaurant has an

upgraded back bar. It’s Northern Cali-

fornia coastal cooking at its best: lots of seafood, salads, Asian and Mexican in-

fluences, and a heavy dose of Alice Waters–style produce-first deliciousness. nickscove.com

FROM TOP: HILTON LOS CABOS; KRISTIN LOKEN (2)

resort within a two-hour flight from the

Wine Country Winners

The Inn at Abeja

It’s no easy feat making wine in the West. And yet the region’s growers and producers continue on the path of mindful cultivation, releasing innovative bottles in the face of a historic pandemic, wildfires, and drought. We’re ready for a viticulture renaissance. Here’s where you’ll find us amid the vines.

Wine Country Escapes

STAY

T H E E S TAT E YO U N T V I L L E

Expect exciting changes at the longtime Napa village, including a re-

freshed spa and new restaurant. A slate of luxury accommodations

abounds, including a California mod-

There are lots of new reasons to love

the standout Solvang retreat, includ-

ing an onsite spa and rustic Airstream accommodations. It’s all part of the

fringed-hammock and cozy outdoor

ern farmhouse and contemporary ho-

fire-pit vibes. hotelynez.com

theestateyountville.com

M A CA R T H U R P L A C E H O T E L & S PA

tel, plus a private villa.

THE FINCH HOTEL

More than 100 unique pieces comprise the art collection at this Sonoma get-

You’ll find a rotating cast of Walla Wal-

away, with fireplaces in guest rooms, a

erne–inspired spot that brings togeth-

chef’s garden that supplies farm-fresh

la food trucks at this Streamline Mod-

mid-century pool, two apiaries, and a

er PNW artists for contemporary decor.

ingredients to the bar and restaurant.

finchwallawalla.com

macarthurplace.com

G R ANADA H OTE L & B I STRO

THE MADRONA

modern luxuries flourish while old soul

recently got a facelift, featuring a mix

wraps around this San Luis Obispo

family and romantic touches as well

rooftop lounge.

site garden. themadronahotel.com

Thanks to a $5 million renovation,

FROM TOP: THE INN AT ABEJA; SILAS FALLSTITCH

HOTEL YNEZ

A historic 1880s Healdsburg residence

remains in the exposed brick that

of classic furniture from the original

boutique hotel, which is home to a

as a Michelin-starred chef and an on-

granadahotelandbistro.com

N O R T H B L O C K YO U N T V I L L E

Where to Eat & Drink

You’ll find a quintessential Walla Walla

taurant that’s part of this 20-room ho-

Outstanding Bakery

vineyard and farmstead where a five-

ated around a courtyard and feature

BO B’S WE LL B READ BAKE RY

mate group retreat. Coming soon: The

while you’re sipping a glass of wine.

on the patio of the beloved Los Alamos outpost. Pastries

T H E I N N AT A B E J A

You can now enjoy brunch at the res-

wine country experience at this estate

tel in Napa Valley. The rooms are situ-

bedroom farmhouse offers the ulti-

patios or balconies for relaxing views

It doesn’t get any better than a brisket sandwich special

inn’s kitchen will open for dinner.

northblockhotel.com

and loaves are baked fresh daily. bobswellbread.com

abeja.net

TH E TRAVEL ISSU E 2022 • SU N S ET

The Hitching Post 2

EAT & DRINK

THE HITCHING POST 2

R E S TA U R A N T & TA S T I N G R O O M

Did you really go to the Santa Ynez Valley if you didn’t eat tri-tip at the Hitching Post? The legendary steakhouse

recently installed a big top for outdoor dining, elevating the open-air vibes while you enjoy a rib chop from the wood-fired grill. hitchingpost2.com

Where to Go

L A PA L O M A CA F E

One of Santa Barbara’s most beloved restaurants recently reopened under

new management, but the good eats stayed the same: Weekend brunch

features seasonal selections on a gorgeous outdoor patio in the Presidio. lapalomasb.com

World-Class Wine Region S A N TA Y N E Z VA L L E Y

Let us name the reasons we keep returning to this fertile California valley: more than 100 wineries, an array of

family farms, notable hotel openings, and a renovated

open-air theater, among others. If you’re looking for rolling vineyards, this is the place to be. visitsyv.com

Top Wine Tasting Experiences

S T O L L E R FA M I LY E S TAT E

There may be no better pairing than bubbles and fried chicken, and you

can sample them here for lunch be-

neath an outdoor pergola on the Santa Barbara estate dotted with oak

Sample rarely available wines and

trees. roblarwinery.com

tasting experience from this family-run

L’ E C O L E N O . 4 1

and a contemporary tasting room.

family have farmed these vineyards.

seasonal small plates at a new hilltop

Oregon winery with three guest homes

Three generations of a Walla Walla

stollerfamilyestate.com

Take your pick from a tasting in their

L A N G & R E E D N A PA VA L L E Y

wine bar, or a new tasting room in

historic 1915 schoolhouse, a downtown

Enter a century-old Victorian-style

“Wine Walk Row.” lecole.com

Franc and Sauvignon Blanc from a

A M AT E R R A W I N E R Y

vino for nearly three decades.

tasting in Portland, think again. Sip

home in St. Helena to sip Cabernet

Roblar Winery

RO B L AR WI N E RY

family that’s been crafting California

If you thought you couldn’t go wine

langandreed.com

some Pinot Noir or Chardonnay at a

gravity-flow winery that offers a taste of the Willamette Valley just minutes

from downtown. amaterrawines.com

SU N S ET • TH E TRAVEL ISSU E 2022

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: ROB STARK; CRAFT & CLUSTER/VISIT THE SANTA YNEZ VALLEY; REBECCA NUSS

Wine Country Classics

The New Food Pilgrimage

Experiential dining spaces and over-thetop tasting menus are en vogue. We don’t just want to share food with our friends; we want to commune with strangers amid a dining experience that ignites all of our senses. Here are some favorites.

Salish Lodge & Spa

FROM TOP: ROB SHIELDS/UNSPLASH; BRADY LAWRENCE

Dinner and a Show

Standout WineAnd-Dine Region WA L L A WA L L A , WA S H I N G T O N

No longer the new kid on the block, Washington’s fertile southeastern region is teeming with new restaurants and food trucks, a burgeoning arts scene, and more than 100 wineries that appeal to all types of palates. wallawalla.org

GRAN DMASTE R RECORDE RS

S A L I S H L O D G E & S PA

with new life as a rooftop bar and res-

cading waters of Snoqualmie Falls at

Australian-inspired fare, plus late-

award-winning restaurant. A newly

grandmasterrecorders.com

both feature epic overlooks.

A former recording studio is brimming

You’ll have a front-row seat to the cas-

taurant that serves up Italian- and

this Washington property with an

night deejays.

added cocktail lounge and hot tub salishlodge.com

R E D S A LT AT KO ’A K E A HOTEL & RESORT

SERẼA

Hawaiian meal of sashimi, nigiri, and

iconic views of San Diego, and its res-

match. koakea.com/red-salt

coastal cuisine is the name of the

Sidle up to Kauai’s Po’ipu Beach for a

Hotel del Coronado is known for its

sake with romantic coastline views to

taurant is no exception. Fresh-catch

game, alongside handcrafted cocktails and local beers. sereasandiego.com

TH E TRAVEL ISSU E 2022 • SU N S ET

Transcendent Tasting Menus N I S E I R E S TA U R A N T

San Francisco chef David Yoshimura’s

new twist on Japanese cuisine stars in dishes such as dorayaki with banana, crème fraîche, and white sturgeon caviar, with wine pairings. restaurantnisei.com

RAINBIRD

New in Merced, the restaurant’s fivecourse experimental menus feature

veggie-focused bites like white onion macaron and thyme-basted halibut. rainbirdrestaurant.com MAN RESA

Three Michelin stars signify the culi-

nary innovation of chef David Kinch’s Los Gatos restaurant, which is cele-

brating its 20th year creating whimsical plates in partnership with local

purveyors. manresarestaurant.com

Rainbird

Treehouse Lounge

Drinks With a View F R O L I K K I T C H E N + C O C K TA I L S

Yes, there is a synthetic curling rink installed at this Seattle rooftop. Yes, it

plays host to drag queen trivia and karaoke nights. Yes, the cocktails are innovative with a PNW twist.

destinationhotels.com/frolik-seattle LI DO H OU S E , AN AUTOG R APH COLLECTION

See Newport Beach from a new vanwhich serves up the hotel’s own

Champagne blend plus craft cocktails and light bites. lidohousehotel.com

T H E R O O F T O P AT T H E WAY FA R E R DOWNTOWN L A

Head up to the 12th floor of a DTLA skyscraper to find this hidden oasis serving up a 10-course brunch, boozy cof-

Brilliant Brasserie C H E Z M A G GY

Michelin-starred chef Ludo Lefebvre

takes on Denver at a hip, new French

restaurant with staples like steak tar-

tare, duck à l’orange, and bison bourguignon. chezmaggydenver.com

fee slushies, and more. wayfarerdtla. com/downtown-la-dining/rooftop

T R E E H O U S E L O U N G E AT PA S E A H O T E L & S PA

The allure of a hanging-lantern bar sculpture is only matched by the

ocean views, as this lounge plays host to a plant-based menu and small

snacks for your pet! meritagecollection.com/pasea-hotel/dining/ treehouse-lounge

SU N S ET • TH E TRAVEL ISSU E 2022

tage point at Topside rooftop bar,

4 CASTLE HOT SPRINGS

Stress-Free Staycation Your next great getaway could be right in your backyard. Fueled by an increase in local exploration, more people are finding rest and rejuvenation close to home, whether that’s a nearby metropolis or a wellness resort. Luckily, the West plays host to myriad hospitality groups constantly creating innovative spaces to discover throughout the region.

Castle Hot Springs

Alila Ventana Big Sur

Superlative Spa Retreats

C I VA N A W E L L N E S S R E S O R T & S PA STAY

and spiritual growth in the middle of

Japanese baths invite weary travelers to their warm waters on a secluded

property amid the redwoods of coastal California, where a slate of evolving onsite experiences is targeted at your well-being, from private watercolor

painting to tai chi. ventanabigsur.com

the Sonoran Desert.

civanacarefree.com F O U R M O O N S S PA

Private bungalows are nestled around

a koi pond at this serene Encinitas oasis with a hammam, Balinese bale,

and new outdoor soaking space for water rituals. fourmoonsspa.com

CA S T L E H O T S P R I N G S

The quintessential Arizona oasis features three hot springs with all-day

access at a secluded property dotted

with a pool, lush experimental garden, castlehotsprings.com

class spa with more than 70 weekly

classes to better your physical, mental,

A L I L A V E N TA N A B I G S U R

and farm-fresh restaurant.

Just outside Scottsdale lies a world-

N O B U R YO K A N M A L I B U

The ultimate luxury spa getaway plac-

es you in a limestone-walled suite facing either the ocean, beach, or garden with your own teak tub, fireplace, and

shoji-style closet. Head out for activities like stand-up paddleboarding or yoga. malibu.nobuhotels.com

TH E TRAVEL ISSU E 2022 • SU N S ET

Pendry West Hollywood

Most Inspiring Hotel

STAY

H O T E L F I G U E R OA

This downtown Los Angeles hotel’s history in the women’s movement re-

mains apparent, with a revolving art

series featuring female artists and a

custom suite outfitted with eye masks, candles, and more from women-

owned businesses. hotelfigueroa.com

STAY

A C M E H O S P I TA L I T Y

The Santa Barbara–based hoteliers

behind a wide range of California food, beverage, and hospitality concepts

impress with two of their latest restorations: The National Exchange Hotel

in Nevada City (thenationalexchangehotel.com) and the Holbrooke Hotel in

locations. We’re partial to The Cloudveil as a base camp for exploring

Jackson Hole (thecloudveil.com), while

The Lodge at Sonoma features charming cottages in California wine country (thelodgeatsonoma.com). Haciendastyle accommodations amid historic architecture await at the Inn at the Mission San Juan Capistrano (innatthemissionsjc.com).

Grass Valley (holbrooke.com). Both his-

PE N D RY

lously updated in a way that at once

ward-thinking luxury imbued in each

Where to Stay

art-clad Pendry West Hollywood

Architectural Gem

modern alpine vibes at ski-in/ski-out

LIN E HOTE L SAN FRANCISCO

AUTOG R APH CO LLECTI O N

city). Don’t forget about Pendry San

nonprofit theater space, and a rooftop solarium all

odds are there’s an Autograph Collec-

Gaslamp Quarter, where a nighttime

Bjarke Ingels Group and Handel Architects, slated to

toric properties have been meticu-

honors their past and propels them

into the future, with innovative onsite programming that has us raising a glass. acmehospitality.com

No matter where you are in the West,

tion hotel within reach, offering sumptuous amenities in world-class

There’s just something about the forand every Pendry property, from the (pendry.com/west-hollywood) to

Pendry Park City (pendry.com/park-

A hotel, private residences, four dining experiences, a

Diego (pendry.com/san-diego) in the

converge in this expansive project designed by

social club and complimentary Cadil-

open this year. thelinehotel.com/sf

lacs await. pendry.com

SU N S ET • TH E TRAVEL ISSU E 2022

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: TANVEER BADAL; CHRISTIAN HORAN PHOTOGRAPHY; THE LINE HOTEL

Great Hotel Groups

A Sense of Place and Purpose

Top Tour Guides

Travelers want to be intentional about where they spend money and who’s guiding them on the journey. Whether taking in a piece of history or getting tips from a bona fide local outfitter, we’ve got ideas.

H E R I TA G E I N S P I R AT I O N S

Wherever you want to bike, hike,

glamp, or stay overnight, the guided

experiences crafted by this Taos company immerse you in the history and beauty of New Mexico.

heritageinspirations.com INQUISITOUR’S COMPLETE

PA C I F I C N O R T H W E S T E X P E R I E N C E Let the locals introduce you to OG

makers on custom trips that also give

back; a portion of proceeds go toward climate initiatives or to help feed the communities you visit. inquisitours.com

R O U T E S B I CYC L E T O U R S & R E N TA L S

See Albuquerque and Santa Fe by two wheels thanks to the wide range of

rentals and customized maps from

this company, which just added elec-

The Little Nell

Consummate Classics

H O T E L VA L L E Y H O STAY

AU B E RG E DU SO LE I L

Heritage Inspirations

Gabor, brings together mid-mod design and a chic pool scene. hotelvalleyho.com

a 33-acre grove of olive and oak trees

M I S S I O N PA C I F I C H O T E L

to tennis courts and a Michelin-starred

its restored Top Gun House is not. A

aubergeresorts.com/aubergedusoleil

structure is now home to the High Pie,

T H E B R OA D M O O R

fried to order. missionpacifichotel.com

mer 1800s casino turned luxury resort

THE LITTLE NELL

erty that offers 17 restaurants, two

resort, which recently received its first

venture experiences like a zip line and

sculptor and designer Luis Bustamante

overlooking the Mayacamas. It’s home

While the California hotel is fairly new,

restaurant.

featured home in the film classic, the

You can still horseback ride at this for-

routesrentals.com

the likes of Bing Crosby and Zsa Zsa

Adults go to play at this immaculate

California wine country retreat sited in

FROM TOP: JEREMY SWANSON; AMANDA POWELL

The retro Scottsdale resort, beloved by

tric bikes to the fleet.

a hand-pie bar with desserts that are

on a sweeping Colorado Springs prop-

Ski in and ski out at Aspen’s longtime

championship golf courses, plus ad-

major update since opening: Spanish

fly-fishing camp. broadmoor.com

reimagined its 4,000-square-foot members-only mountain club. thelittlenell.com

TH E TRAVEL ISSU E 2022 • SU N S ET

TH E BARLOW

S TAT E S T R E E T M A R K E T

four blocks with dog-friendly glass

global cuisine at its best. There’s Cali-

ries, and an annual beer run.

ese-Korean dishes, a raw bar, and

Sonoma County’s open-air market fills

Step into this Los Altos food hall for

studios, olive oil tastings, a concert se-

fornian-Indian comfort food, Taiwan-

thebarlow.net

more. statestreetmarket.com

State Street Market

Skyview Los Alamos

Mighty Motels

STAY

E GY P T I A N M O T O R H O T E L

Make a pit stop at a brand-new Phoenix inn that’s been thoughtfully re-

stored, all the way down to the original

turf and old-school amenities like retro refrigerators and Magic 8 Balls. egyptianmotorhotel.com

SK Y VIEW LOS AL AMOS

Sublime Arts Center

Where to Go DO

PAT R I C I A R E S E R C E N T E R

Standout Southwest Culture Trip

FOR TH E ARTS

S A N TA F E

opened to bring regional arts organi-

where like this in the U.S., not to mention the city’s

educational exhibitions to Beaverton.

hiking, hot spring dips, and much more. santafe.org

A creekside 550-seat theater recently

You won’t find pueblo and adobe architecture any-

zations, international performers, and

unique topography that lends itself to stargazing,

thereser.org

SU N S ET • TH E TRAVEL ISSU E 2022

Pull off Highway 101 and into a 1950s

hillside motel that still has the original pool, a working vineyard, and fleet of Linus bikes to explore the Santa Ynez Valley. skyviewlosalamos.com

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT: VISIT THE SANTA YNEZ VALLEY; TOURISM SANTA FE; JEREMY JEZIORSKI; ISABEL BAER

Matchless Markets

Epic Outdoor Getaways

Off-Grid Luxury

More people than ever are venturing out into Mother Nature—and they’re showing no signs of slowing down. Whether you’re hitting the open road, hiking solo, or camping with a group, here’s how to live your best outdoor life this year.

STAY

A U T O CA M P J O S H U A T R E E

A meandering dirt path takes you

through an intimate Airstream experience anchored by a mid-century

modern clubhouse that blends warm

interiors with the vast outdoor expanse of this 25-acre desert getaway. autocamp.com/joshua-tree D U N T O N R I V E R CA M P

A southwest Colorado property just

steps from the Dolores River, the camp offers spacious, luxe tents, plus a new

bar and lodge where you can cozy up by the fire or play a game of pool.

duntondestinations.com/river-camp U N D E R CA N VA S B R YC E CA N YO N The tenth location of a brand known

for its canvas-style tent properties, the latest solar-powered camp is located in the mountains of southern Utah

near the iconic red-rock hoodoos of Bryce Canyon National Park. undercanvas.com/camps/bryce-canyon

FROM LEFT: COURTESY OF SHELDON CHALET; DUNTON DESTINATIONS

Dunton River Camp

Sheldon Chalet

Alaskan Jewels

STAY

SHELDON CHALET

T O R D R I L L O M O U N TA I N L O D G E

T U T K A B AY L O D G E

tains in North America, this eco-con-

retreat is only half the adventure: Once

throw away, thanks to this hotel’s pri-

Perched on some of the tallest mounscious chalet is the ultimate back-

country lodge. Strap on a harness and explore ice crevasses and caverns in

the nearby glacier. sheldonchalet.com

A separate flight to this remote luxury

you’re settled in your cabin on the Talachulitna River, a private helicopter

can shuttle you to an epic via ferrata. tordrillomountainlodge.com

Kachemak Bay State Park is a stone’s

vate location in a nearby cove. Kayak near whales and puffins, explore the

tidepools, or raise a glass in the oldgrowth forest bar. withinthewild.com

TH E TRAVEL ISSU E 2022 • SU N S ET

Beautiful Base Camps

STAY

OA S I S CA B I N R E S O R T

This campground in central Oregon’s River Country boasts 12 cabins, two

vintage trailers, and a classic diner

that serves as an homage to the property’s former life as one of the state’s oldest fishing camps.

oasiscabinresort.com SCP REDMOND

If rock climbing is your jam, then near-

by Smith Rock State Park (and the rapidly growing city of Redmond) should pique your interest, as will the hotel’s

new plant-forward restaurant and tavern-style lobby bar.

scphotel.com/redmond W Y L D E R H O P E VA L L E Y

Yurts, cabins, and a Spartan trailer dot the Carson River at this Nordic-

inspired camp where you’ll find fly-

fishing lessons in warmer months and snowshoe tours in winter.

Takibi

Transporting Tables

wylderhotels.com/hope-valley

EAT & DRINK

TA K I B I

This Portland restaurant combines all of our favorite things: camping, food, and

cocktails. Located at Japanese outdoor brand Snow Peak’s headquarters, the

space is at the forefront of the glamping restaurant trend. takibipdx.com TH E SOCIAL HAU S

Head to the remote Montana wilderness to discover a surprising ninecourse tasting menu where your

amuse bouche might just be foie-

gras-infused ice cream. Expect different dishes daily and ingredients for-

RE D DOG SALOON

Smack dab in the middle of the Cali-

fornia desert’s Pioneertown, the saloon serves up Western nostalgia and craft

cocktails that are a big step up from a shot and a beer. Order a barrel-aged

Negroni after exploring nearby Joshua

Tree National Park, then rest your head at the neighboring Pioneertown Motel. pioneertown-motel.com

SU N S ET • TH E TRAVEL ISSU E 2022

Wylder Hope Valley

FROM TOP: MARIELLE DEZURICK; REN FULLER

aged from the woods. thegreeno.com

REI Grand Canyon & Lake Powell Family Adventure

Amazing Outdoor Activities

R O L L O R S T R O L L T H E O LY M P I C D I SCOVE RY TR AI L

Stretching from Washington’s Port

Townsend to Port Angeles, this 135-mile route winds its way through the Olympic Peninsula’s forests and boatyards, farmers’ markets and waterfronts, for an epic excursion by foot or by bike. olympicdiscoverytrail.org

SEQUOIA RIVERLANDS TRUST

IM PERIAL RIVER CO.

nonprofit, which is dedicated to pre-

er before at a hotel offering half- and

Volunteer with the Central California

serving land in the San Joaquin Valley and southern Sierra Nevada, by working in a plant nursery or maintaining

oak forest trails, among other activities. sequoiariverlands.org

full-day whitewater rafting trips as well as overnight accommodations right

on the banks. This part of central Ore-

gon is perfect for beginners and experienced adventurers alike. deschutesriver.com

R E I G R A N D CA N YO N & L A K E

P O W E L L FA M I LY A D V E N T U R E

T U M A L O C R E E K K AYA K & CA N O E

six-day itinerary that takes you hiking

ventures boasts lessons and private

All ages can enjoy this jam-packed

in the Grand Canyon, camping under the stars, riding a historic train, and

See Oregon’s Deschutes River like nev-

tional parks and monuments off your bucket list. rei.com/adventures

A 20-year veteran of Bend water ad-

group training, programs for both kids and adults, and daily to weekly gear rentals. Get outfitted for trips to the

Cascades and nearby whitewater rivers. tumalocreek.com

TH E TRAVEL ISSU E 2022 • SU N S ET

Rad Ranches

STAY

Brasada Ranch

B R ASADA R AN CH

Sagebrush dots this 2,000-acre central Oregon property where you’ll find sunset horseback rides, house-made

s’mores, golf, and family-friendly cabins in view of the Cascades. brasada.com

T H E L O D G E & S PA AT B R U S H CREEK RANCH

Nestled in Wyoming’s North Platte River Valley, a 30,000-acre cattle ranch

beckons with all-inclusive amenities

including a private ski area and a fully renovated spa that now features a

yoga studio and dedicated couple’s treatment room.

brushcreekranch.com OCEANPOINT RANCH

Moonstone Beach serves as a pictur-

esque backdrop for this seaside Cambria hotel with just-right Western vibes and a private beach trail. oceanpointranch.com

Terrific Transit

GET THERE

SEQUOIA SHUTTLE

Avoid parking headaches at Sequoia National Park with an eco-friendly

shuttle that departs from most Visalia hotels. Even if you’re headed to the

backcountry, the shuttle offers a one-

way ride to spots including the Pacific

Where to Go

Remarkable Outdoor Recreation Region W YO M I N G ’ S W I N D R I V E R C O U N T R Y

The red desert and Wind River Mountain Range play host to an array of opportunities in the great outdoors, from rodeos to road trips through Grand Teton and Yellowstone national parks, plus a new public access point on the Popo Agie River. windriver.org

SU N S ET • TH E TRAVEL ISSU E 2022

FROM TOP: BRASADA RANCH; JENNIE HUTCHINSON; SEQUOIA SHUTTLE

Crest Trail. sequoiashuttle.com

WT: XXX PF: XX ZO: XX

page

Heart of the Rogue Valley: Medford, Oregon

A perfect getaway to Medford, Oregon, where wine, nature, and culinary delights abound Clockwise from top: Crater Lake National Park serves up epic vistas; the Rogue Valley is home to world-famous Rogue Creamery; Table Rock stands tall above the lake; wine tasting with a view at Dancin Vineyards.

an 85-mile trek to the wondrous Crater Lake National Park. Between its international airport and tranquil drivability, Medford is remarkably accessible from anywhere in the West or beyond. Herewith, the ultimate itinerary for exploring this world-class wonderland of nature, culinary excellence—and some of the best wine in the West.

the Rogue Valley due to the region’s conducive climate. The onsite restaurant features artisanal pizzas and flatbreads, formaggio boards, and Cindy’s own recipe of mushrooms stuffed with spicy Italian sausage, chardonnay cream sauce, parmesan, and balsamic syrup. Like each of these three vineyards, the Rogue Valley’s vino culture touts a remarkably diverse scene that, through every geological influence, stands tall in character and quality. Wine Time Fall is harvest season in Medford, and one of the most exciting times to visit the region. Home to the Rogue Valley American Viticultural Area, wineries benefit from predominantly volcanic soils found in only one other place in the world: southern France’s Rhône River region. Kriselle Cellars was the first winery on my vino-centric itinerary. The pride and joy of Scott Steingraber is nestled on a south-facing slope between the Rogue River and the Upper Table Rock Plateau. The land, a sun-drenched, plot brimming with round river rock and silts, produces a grape rich in depth, character, and terroir. Here, visitors can sample Cabernet Sauvignon, Cab Franc, and other varietals from an elevated main hall that yields stunning views of the riverbed below. I continued my Medford vinous safari at 2Hawk Vineyard and Winery, where estate wines are complemented by inspiring views from 2Hawk’s rustic tasting room or from one of the property’s cozy fire pits. Boasting a lifetime of farming expertise, the 2Hawk crew employs sustainable agricultural practices and real-time conditions monitoring to fine-tune flavor and achieve unique combinations of flavor and personality. Dan and Cindy Marca’s ethereal winery Dancin is enveloped by cedar, oak, and pine that thrives on the region’s topographical diversity and cooler climates. Varietals such as chardonnay and pinot noir are staples here, the latter of which is harvested at more than a 3-to-1 ratio in

Untitled-1 1

Natural Selections For travelers seeking an adventure pairing to wine country, the Medford region is awash in recreation. Fly fishing thrives on the Rogue River, but for adrenaline-seekers, whitewater rafting and high-speed options, courtesy of Rogue Jet Boat Adventures, hurl and spin passengers through stretches of scintillating river flanked by overhanging trees, historic and celebrity homes, plus the occasional osprey nest. No visit to the Rogue Valley would be complete, however, without admiring its expanse from overhead. Rogue Valley ZipLine Adventures and its team of certified guides usher guests through a five-zipline course that meanders through towering tree canopies and unveils awe-inspiring views of the valley below. If keeping feet firmly planted on solid Earth is preferable, the region offers hiking opportunities galore. From Crater Lake and the local Table Rock Mountains, which over millennia have developed unique ecosystems atop their

elevated island-in-the-sky surfaces, to Mill Creek and Barr Creek Falls, the 173-foot and 242-foot gushers, respectively, that emerge from a sea of evergreens, outdoor adventure is everywhere.

Culinary Cred With the Rogue Valley culinary scene ready to deliver, I found my bliss in a three-stop tour of some of the finest spots. Ninetyyear-old Rogue Creamery is a must for any out-of-towner, boasting a dizzying roundup of artisanal cheeses and jams that can be found in restaurants all over the world— thanks in part to its status as grand champion of the 2019-20 World Cheese Awards in Italy, the only U.S. creamery to ever earn the award. Go next door to Coquette Bakery for rustic loaves and refined pastries to complement your cheese. Then venture to Forage Coffee Co. for some of Medford’s finest brew in a space abundantly decorated with fiddle leaf figs and other trending plants you can buy. No matter the pitstop category penciled in on my own itinerary, there was a welcoming spirit among Medford’s residents. It may have been my first time exploring the city’s world-class vineyards, eateries, and outdoor attractions, but by the end of my short trip I came to understand that it is Medford’s sense of community that comprises the heart of its identity. And as they did with me, its locals are eager to share it with you. —J.D. Simkins

P HOTOS C OU RTE SY TR A VE L ME DF ORD

In fall, Oregon beckons travelers with promises of rich hues of red, orange, and gold that signal the arrival of crisp air. It’s the perfect time to visit its diverse landscape of evergreen forests, dramatic coastline, and high desert. It’s also home to Medford, the beating heart of Southern Oregon’s Rogue River Valley, where I spent several days immersed in its undulating vineyards, ambling along the bustling Rogue River, and exploring its geological marvels. “A 10-minute drive almost always means a 10-minute drive,” my Uber driver told me, noting the easy-tonavigate traffic en route to the sparkling new Compass Hotel by Margaritaville that would serve as my base of operations. This held true for the duration of my stay, whether on a short jaunt to a local watering hole or

8/11/22 1:25 PM

WILDLANDS

To New Heights

Via ferrata, anyone? These adventures require little or no experience and provide views traditionally reserved for worldclass rock climbers. Story by J. D. S I M KI N S

Jackson Hole Mountain Resort

On Time OUR FAVORITE WATCHES GET THE JOB DONE FOR ALL TYPES OF WESTERN EXPLORERS.

SU N S ET • TH E TRAVEL ISSU E 2022

TORDRILLO MOUNTAIN LODGE, ALASKA Alaska’s very first via ferrata is a 1,200foot cable network featuring two sus-

pension bridges and 900 feet of elevation gain. Be prepared for adventure before this adventure—guests can

only get to the lodge on a float plane.

From there, it’s a 10-minute helicopter ride to the via ferrata.

MOUNT NIMBUS, BRITISH COLUMBIA No North American via ferrata list would be complete without the

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continent’s longest and highest entry. When climbers aren’t traversing rock faces more than 3,000 feet off the

ground, they’re tackling suspension

bridges over 2,000-foot drops that are

sure to reorganize your inner constitution. Designed for the novice, the

courses at Mount Nimbus require no

experience. Some athleticism is recommended, however.

ESTES PARK, COLORADO Rocky Mountain National Park is in-

credibly popular for a good reason.

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Built-in global navigation systems and a backtrack feature that traces your route combine with unlimited battery life. STARTING AT $450; GARMIN.COM

TOP: COURTESY OF JACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN RESORT

The hike-climb hybrid known as the via ferrata is soaring in popularity. Systems of iron rungs for grip, and cables to clip in, squire visitors along vertical rock, up and down ladders, and across harrowing suspension bridges that offer no shortage of awe-inspiring views. And since many are guide-operated, equipment is usually included as part of a tour package. Better yet, many via ferratas often require little or no experience, with visitors of all ages and athletic abilities able to enjoy the same sights traditionally afforded to the rarest of athletic communities. Interested in giving one a go? We threw together a handful of our favorites to make choosing one a bit easier.

Why not add one more exhilarating activity to your visit, courtesy of the Kent Mountain Adventure Center, in the

neighboring town of Estes Park? Guides will take you up the 600-foot Peregrine Arete, considered one of the nation’s

more thrilling climbs, using the wall’s rock, steel rungs, and ladders. At the top, you’ll take in the otherworldly sights of the park from one of the area’s best vantage points.

CAÑON CITY, COLORADO Four different via ferrata routes ranging in difficulty await

visitors of this town just south of Colorado Springs. Climbers will enjoy views of towering canyon walls—Royal Gorge

plunges to 1,250 feet at its deepest point—and the surrounding mountains. If that doesn’t do it for you, maybe the fact

that the Royal Gorge suspension bridge has earned the title of the nation’s highest will.

TELLURIDE, COLORADO This route is a mile-and-a-half journey that touts views of

November 3-6, 2022 www.TasteSYV.com

stunning peaks, the mountain town below, a thrilling box

canyon, and the 400-foot Bridal Veil Falls—the longest in the state. This route also offers the rare opportunity to go without a guide, though paying for a little extra expertise never hurts.

OGDEN, UTAH One of the more challenging via ferrata courses in North

America is this mountainous haven in northern Utah. Three

different routes are available, some offering more technical climbing than the others, but don’t let that scare you—inex-

perienced visitors are still welcome. Climbers complete 400 feet of elevation gain to arrive at the aptly named Waterfall Canyon, where guests will have their hard work rewarded with a waterfall view only those at the top get to enjoy.

JACKSON, WYOMING What better way to look out at the Grand Teton range than from the network of via ferratas run by the Jackson Hole

Mountain Resort? The Bridger Gondola drops guests at the

top of the Tetons, where a short stroll ushers those interested toward climbs appealing to various skill levels that yield incredible views from heights only the most daring would attempt on skis.

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Our annual four-day celebration of food, wine, and more returns this November across the towns of Solvang, Santa Ynez, Los Alamos, Los Olivos, Ballard, and Buellton. Come experience curated wine tastings, chef-driven long table dinners, lunches, and activities, all celebrating the incredible offerings of thisTCalifornia country H E T R A V E L Iwine SSUE 2 0 2 2 • S Udestination. NSET 85

Insider

Seasonal diversions and secret travel tips from local experts. Teton Springs Lodge & Spa

NORTHWEST This month: Driggs, Idaho The insider: Lea Beckett, co-founder of Grand Teton Distillery

Gluten-free Idaho potato vodka: That’s what you’ll get when you pick up a bottle from Grand Teton Distillery. Of course, you could also visit for a tour and free tasting of these award-winning spirits. Which is exactly why we reached out to co-founder Lea Beckett to learn about the team’s home base of Driggs, and must-visit spots in the region. Trap Bar & Grill Side Yard or get some

months, a farmers' market

(fresh squeezed grape-

fers “handmade crafts,

ribs and a Greyhound fruit juice and Grand

Teton Vodka) at the Knotty Pine Supper Club in

in Driggs city square ofart, and baked goods,"

plus produce and meats.”

Victor. Head up Ski Hill

Head to Warbirds Cafe

for dinner and check out

“all of their classic planes

in their aircraft museum— they even have a MiG,”

Beckett says. When actor Channing Tatum, who's

partnered with the distillery, visited Teton Valley, "we hosted him and his friends at Linn Canyon Ranch,” Beckett adds.

STAY: You can stay at Linn Canyon Ranch but you won’t find much in the way of “fast food or big-name

Road across the Wyoming border to Trap Bar & Grill

at Grand Targhee Ski Resort for winter activities when the season starts Nov. 19.

DO: Some of Beckett's favorite activities include "horse-

back riding and hayrides at Linn Canyon Ranch

and hikes in the Big Hole

Mountains or the foothills of the Tetons. You can pick up a trail map of hikes from the Forest

Ranger station on South Main in Driggs.”

hotels” in Teton Valley. Try

SHOP:

Teton Springs Lodge &

erything you need for ex-

Cobblestone Hotel or Spa in Victor.

DRINK: Grab a drink at The West

Warbirds Cafe

“Peaked Sports has ev-

periencing the amazing

outdoors in Teton Valley,” Beckett says. On Friday

mornings during warmer

SU N S ET • TH E TRAVEL ISSU E 2022

Linn Canyon Ranch

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT: SKYDEF PRODUCTIONS; TRAP BAR & GRILL; WARBIRDS: SONJISUN PHOTOGRAPHY; VISIT IDAHO; GRAND TETON DISTILLERY

EAT:

Solage Resort & Spa

Press

STAY: Stanly Ranch has a "lav-

ender pool where you can spend the day sipping

wine and relaxing in the

sun,” says Maya. “Its modern farmhouse vibe really captures the essence of

COUNTERCLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT: JOHN TROXELL; AUBERGE RESORTS COLLECTION; EMMA K. MORRIS; JIMMY HAYES

starred restaurant.” Maya also loves Solage Resort & Spa. “It is so peaceful

and feels like a true resort

If you love Napa Valley wine, you may already know about a decades-old vineyard perched in the eastern hills of Oakville. Founded in 1986, Dalla Valle Vineyards produces Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, all made with love and precision by mother-daughter duo Naoko (proprietor) and Maya Dalla Valle (winemaker and director). With harvest in full swing, we asked the pair for their favorite spots in the California wine region.

Press, Charter Oak, and

Bistro Don Giovanni are also wonderful.”

Napa and a go-to late-

nean-inspired, Michelin-

The insider: Naoko and Maya Dalla Valle, Dalla Valle Vineyards

mushroom tortellini.

cation with stunning vinedefinitely the Mediterra-

This month: Napa Valley

mend the Sierra morel

DRINK:

yard views; a highlight is

NORTHERN CALIFORNIA

wines. I highly recom-

Napa Valley.” Auberge du

Soleil is in a "secluded lo-

Carter and Co

and pairs well with our

getaway.”

“Cadet is in downtown

night spot, known for its

fun and cozy ambiance,” Maya says. “They offer a range of wines, from

Napa to French reds and

sparkling. Valley bar and bottle shop is a restau-

rant, natural wine bar, and bottle shop all in one. I like

SHOP: Elysewalker “offers a mix

of super chic clothing and accessories and affordable finds,” Maya says.

“Carter and Co is a ce-

ramic-dinnerware store with the most beautiful

home pieces. For fellow

outdoor lovers, Sportago is my go-to for hiking

gear.” Find local wines at Bay Grape, which “doubles as a wine bar.”

how versatile the setting is, and their food is so fresh.”

DO: For a one-of-a-kind way to experience Napa Valley’s stunning views and scenery, Maya recom-

mends going for a hike up either Oat Hill Mine Trail

or Rector Creek. “The vertical incline is totally

worth it for the views,”

says Maya. “But for a day

EAT: TORC is one of Naoko’s favorites. “Chef Sean

O’Toole‘s food is fabulous

of relaxation, it’s always a treat to do a spa treatment at The Spa at Meadowood.”

TH E TRAVEL ISSU E 2022 • SU N S ET

Sure, Hollywood has a tourist-laden reputation, but look close and you’ll find “incredibly cool things to do while in the neighborhood, with new additions popping up all the time,” say Avi Brosh and Kirsten Leigh Pratt, the duo behind Palisociety hospitality group. Their latest hotel in town is a “fun, contemporary re imagination of a 1980s Hollywood motor lodge.” Here are more favorites.

STAY:

since 1919, its worn red

The insider: Avi Brosh and Kirsten Leigh Pratt, the duo behind Palisociety

Runyon Canyon

Palihotel Hollywood

where the endless offer-

Palihotel Hollywood de-

leather booths and the

ing of gorgeous, organic

year. “Come for light,

are steeped in Hollywood

brings a special, commu-

with vintage and custom

“Have a famous Musso

buts at the end of this

original mahogany bar

bright interiors adorned

history,” the duo says.

furnishings and a heavy

martini … or three.”

soaked pool and Benny’s

DO:

hood poolside bar.”

Kohn Gallery for “rotating

EAT:

jour. They always have

dose of style,” plus a sunon the Blvd., a “neighbor-

Pop into the tucked-away exhibits or installations du

“Run, don’t walk, to chef

something worth seeing

Wolf!” the duo says. “The

backdrop that feels like

the culinary heritage of la

Hollywood’s often frenetic

space feels worthy of

the Hollywood Bowl and

is lovely in a town that is

the stars at this world-fa-

more casual.” Horses is “a

a picnic and a bottle of

and drinkery with a nod to

really in L.A. if it doesn’t in-

are local (in an L.A. kind of

Canyon has “some of the

Evan Funke’s Mother

and the space is a simple

menu pays homage to

the perfect antidote to

cucina romana, and the

energy.” Take in a show at

getting dressed up, which

spend “an evening under

becoming more and

mous amphitheater, with

Californian restaurant

wine in tow.” But “are you

the European bistro. Vibes

volve a hike?” Runyon

way). Food is stellar.” You

best views in town.”

lywood place to belly up

SHOP:

so & Frank Grill. “Serving

lywood Farmers' Market,

“couldn’t find a more Holto the bar” than The Mus-

“We love to shop the Hol-

SU N S ET • TH E TRAVEL ISSU E 2022

product and street food

nity vibe.” Larry Edmunds Bookshop is a “one-of-akind Hollywood gem fo-

cused on film and theater

books, posters, keepsakes, and more. Allow time for browsing.”

Mother Wolf

CLOCKWISE FROM BROSH AND PRATT: NATASHA LEE; GRANT THOMAS/UNSPLASH; COURTESY OF PALISOCIETY; ERIC WOLFINGER PHOTOGRAPHY

SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA

This month: Hollywood

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Visit The Virginia Robinson Gardens in the Heart of Beverly Hills Virginia Robinson Gardens, the first estate in Beverly Hills is a jewel of an historic home and gardens. It was built in 1911 for Harry and Virginia Dreyden Robinson, heir to J.W. Robinson’s Department store. The Renaissance Revival Pool Pavilion (above) was added in 1924 and is modeled after the Villa Pisani in the Tuscan region of Italy. The six and a half acres has five distinct gardens: 1. The Italian Renaissance Terrace Garden with citrus and large magnolia trees plus a variety of camellias, gardenias,and azaleas; 2. The Great Lawn Garden, with perennial flower borders and are specimen cycad ‘palms’; 3. The Rose Garden, with heirloom roses; 4. The Kitchen Garden or Potager, with vegetables and an herb garden; and 5. The Tropical Palm Garden, including a grove of king palms, reportedly the largest in the continental United States. The Robinson Gardens is open to the public for docent tours by advanced reservation only. For tours, please call 310-550-2086, or visit robinsongardens.org

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When did you make the decision to utilize the T Bar T vineyard grapes for your own wine after years of selling them to others?

2018 was an exceptional year for grape yield at T Bar T; es-

sentially, we had more grapes than we could sell at the premium rate. Instead of lowering our price point or not fully utilizing our crop, my father and I decided to bring on a

great local winemaker in Drew Damskey and create our own boutique brand.

“ Some of your favorite Alexander Valley wines are made with the exact same grapes. But that’s where the comparison stops.”

Can you compare Red Bear to other Alexander Valley wines?

It’s comparable in that

some of your favorite Alexander Valley wines are

made with the exact same grapes. But that’s where

the comparison stops. We

have a fresh, new look and taste with Red Bear. We’re

the new guys on the block

and want to embody that. You became fascinated by

the culture surrounding wine on trips to Spain and Italy. What piqued your interest?

For me, it was the accessibility [of] great wines. One doesn’t have to go to fancy restaurants, wine bars, or a specific

wine store to find great wines. This made wine approach-

able to a broader audience, something we want to achieve with Red Bear.

How do you characterize a wine that “can be drunk in any scenario”?

Fine wine can sometimes be so snobby. It can intimidate

people. We want to offer a high-quality wine that’s accessi-

Entrepreneur Sam Jordan teamed up with his father to launch a new winery that aims to break down the barriers so fine wine can be enjoyed by all. Interview by SU N S ET STAFF

T Bar T vineyard climbs up into the hills of Sonoma’s Alexander Valley like a painting. That’s Sam Jordan’s first memory of his family’s wine country property, which they acquired in 2015. Fast forward to 2022 and the entrepreneur isn’t just marveling at the beauty. He’s utilizing the grapes, which you may have already sipped in vintages from popular brand Iron Horse, to craft Cabernet for his own Red Bear Winery. In partnership with his father, Oakland real-estate investor Wayne Jordan, the co-founder hopes to create wines that appeal to a younger generation. Here’s what he’s up to this harvest season.

summer day at the beach. I think this will help to break

down some of the hesitation for young people in purchasing fine wines.

What was the biggest challenge throughout the process of crafting this first Cab? What did you learn that you’ll take into the next vintage?

No year is going to be the exact same as the previous. People always talk about some years being “better” than oth-

ers, but now I’m starting to really understand that. There are so many factors with rain, temperatures, and then throw in fire season. It makes regulating the crop very difficult. What’s next for Red Bear?

Restaurants. Currently, we’re only available online but will soon be in restaurants in Los Angeles and the Bay Area. From there, keeping the momentum going.

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SU N S ET • TH E TRAVEL ISSU E 2022

COURTESY OF RED BEAR WINERY

FAMILY AFFAIR

ble and enjoyable no matter if it’s for a special dinner or a

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