Sunday Times The Edit Man (Autumn/Winter 2017)

FASHION

GROOMING

ART

SPORTS

POLITICS

PURSUITS

OPINION

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the edit man AUTUMN/WINTER ’17

ed’s note

EDITORIAL EDITOR Sharon Becker sharonb@timesmedia.co.za CREATIVE DIRECTOR Anna Lineveldt MANAGING EDITOR Matthew McClure SENIOR DESIGNER Thembekile Vokwana DESIGNER & PICTURE EDITOR Lydia Wessels SENIOR SUBEDITOR Theresa Mallinson BEAUTY EDITOR Nokubonga Thusi LIVING EDITOR Leana Schoeman schoemanl@timesmedia.co.za FEATURES WRITER Ntombenhle Shezi FASHION ASSISTANT Khomotso Moloto LIVING AND BEAUTY ASSISTANT Ranaa Patel FASHION INTERN Sahil Harilal FINAL EYE Karin Mosselson and Lynda Stephenson EDITORIAL INTERN Paula Andropoulos PUBLISHER Aspasia Karras GENERAL MANAGER GROUP SALES & MARKETING Reardon Sanderson MANAGING DIRECTOR Andrew Gill ADVERTISING BUSINESS MANAGER Yvonne Shaff shaffy@timesmedia.co.za 082 903 5641 GAUTENG ACCOUNT MANAGER Faith Thomas faith@fashionedit.co.za, 082 852 8998 THE EDIT LIVING GAUTENG ACCOUNT MANAGER Letitia Louw louwl@timesmedia.co.za, 083 454 1137 CAPE TOWN ACCOUNT MANAGER Charlotte Nutman nutmanc@timesmedia.co.za, 078 358 6154 KZN ACCOUNT MANAGER Gina van de Wall vdwallg@timesmedia.co.za, 083 500 5325 ADVERTISING CO-ORDINATOR Jamie Kinnear PRINTING Paarl Media Gauteng PUBLISHERS Times Media (Pty) Ltd Hill on Empire, 0C Empire Road (cnr Empire and Hillside roads), Parktown, Johannesburg, 2193 © Copyright Times Media (Pty) Ltd. No portion of this magazine may be reproduced in any form without written consent of the publishers. The publishers are not responsible for unsolicited material. The Edit is published by Times Media (Pty) Ltd. The opinions expressed are not necessarily those of Times Media (Pty) Ltd. All advertisements, advertorials, and promotions have been paid for, and therefore do not carry any endorsement by the publishers.

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PHOTOGRAPHY ROSS GARRETT / LAMPOST AND SUPPLIED

SHIRT, R5 250, V E R S AC E ; S P E C TAC L E S , R4 675, SAFILO

JILL SANDER SHIRT, R6 900, 2A; BOMBER JACKET, R59 880, ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA; GIVENCHY SPECTACLES, R4 675, SAFILO

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ON’T WRITE ABOUT THE PENISES.’ That was the injunction from our Editor Sharon Becker and our Creative Director Anna Lineveldt. Being the publisher, I ignored them. The penises in question are related to a project I read about — Laura Dodsworth photographed 100 men in the buff, focusing on their tackle, which — yes, I know what you are thinking — was non-erect. The word “flaccid” strikes me as vaguely inappropriate.

Previously she had photographed 100 women and their breasts. Each portrait was an opportunity for the person to tell their story. What struck me about the penises was how much more vulnerable they appeared.

Women have had their breasts photographed, sculpted, and painted since prehistory. I stand to be corrected, but only in Ancient Rome did the penis manifest with quite the same level of frequency: they would be placed in

TEAM NOTE

our first man stand alone issue

three-dimensional priapic splendor outside the front door, erect and ready to be rubbed for good fortune. Obviously.

The reason I am writing about the penis pics is the stories attached to them: manhood seems to be such a variable, different thing for each man, not some uniform mantle they get to wear as soon as they magically pass go and collect their man pass.

As a team of women who have made this wonderful new broadsheet called The Edit Man for the happy subscribers of the Sunday Times, we felt the burden of editorial integrity: could we really give men a product they would enjoy and relate to without being possessed of (ahem) the necessary apparatus. To this end, we decided to let the men speak for themselves — the result is a panoply of voices weighing in on everything from whisky to the ANC December election; a bit like the penis stories, there is one for everyone. Enjoy! X Aspasia, Sharon and Anna

OUR EDITOR’S TOP FIVE GIFT IDEAS Dolce & Gabbana’s regally embellished black leather backpack has an eyecatching coat-of-arms motif that playfully hints at the romantic past, without detracting from the bag’s quintessential simplicity.

This contemporary, rugged, self-winding Tudor watch is the embodiment of modern masculinity, combining myriad elements into a cohesive whole. It’s a timepiece that will translate well from soirée to safari.

BACKPACK, R19 000, DOLCE AND GABBANA

HERITAGE RANGER WATCH, R40 290, TUDOR

Every wardrobe requires a few essentials, and this navy woolen duffel coat from Country Road definitely makes the grade.

It’s simple, classic, and elegant, a flexible staple to keep you warm this winter.

W O O L D U F F L E COAT, R2 499, COUNTRY ROAD

Refresh the foundations of your wardrobe with these versatile Boss sneakers.

Their suede-taupe veneer is decidedly in synch with the tonal trend of the moment, but this brand of understated chic is timeless.

Ermenegildo Zegna is revered for its use of luxurious materials, and this chalk-grey wallet is no exception. It’s made from Pelle Tessuta, an exquisite fabric made of strips of nappa leather.

SUEDE SNEAKER, R6 400, BOSS

P E L L E T E S S U TA CON T I N E N TAL WAL L E T, R 9 0 5 0 , ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA

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grooming

PRADA Luna Rossa Carbon, 100ml, R1 355 They say: “Strong as the darkest rock with the freshness of air, it brings together steam-distilled botanicals and synthetics in a mineral-forward mix.”

We say: An unusual scent that takes its inspiration from earthy minerals such as coal and soil — it is rugged, while still being elegant. Fresh notes of bergamot, pepper, and lavender make this the perfect transitional scent, whether going from day to night or summer to winter.

S h av i n g Essentials Add these to your shaving and beard maintenance routine for your best shave yet

R E M I N GTO N R E V E A L FAC I A L CLEANSING BRUSH, R1 399, AVAI L A B L E AT C L I C K S

CAROLINA HERRERA

T H E B E S T O F… W I N T E R S C E N T S

212 VIP Men Aqua Limited Edition, 100ml, R1 200 They say: “A fragrance with blue tones and sensations of freshness and comfort to achieve the most magnetic masculinity.

Its citric, aromatic, and woody notes combine their ingredients to perfection, thereby achieving an addictive freshness.”

We say: The complex composition of this fragrance is so seamlessly blended that the notes come together effortlessly in a fresh scent.

Top notes of grapefruit, bergamot, and ginger give the scent a first impression that is not too citrusy, while the middle notes of cardamom and gardenia, and woody base notes, round off the sharpness of the zest.

This season, nature inspires fragrances: these must-have additions are either as fresh as the ocean air or as intense as the darkest coal

S I X M A N M E N ’ S FAC E M O I ST U R I S I N G C R E A M , 75ML, R405

MR BURBERRY BEARD OIL , 30ML, R650

DOLCE & GABBANA

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BVLGARI

JO MALONE

Guilty Homme Absolute, 150ml, R1 895 They say: “Leather accord and goldenwood are custommixed with natural extract of the Nootka Cypress.”

We say: This is the epitome of a masculine fragrance: the notes of leather and vetiver give this scent a powerful woody character.

A combination of patchouli oils at the heart make the scent earthy, well-rounded, and long lasting on the skin.

Aqva Pour Homme Atlantiqve EDT, 100ml, R1 480 They say: “An aromatic tonic fragrance that powerfully portrays the Atlantic Ocean. The master perfumer designed the architecture of a dual fragrance made up of two accords ... the Sea Amber Accord and ... the Ocean Energy accord.”

We say: Fresh as the scent of sea spray, thanks to the main note of ambergris that captures the fragrance of the ocean.

Limited edition Bloomsbury Set Collection Whisky and Cedarwood Cologne, 30ml, R855 They say: “An enigmatic blend of fine whisky and opulent roses edged with spicy pimento (and) warm cedarwood.”

We say: As if touched by an artist’s paint-smudged hands, we love the brush-stroked packaging of this cologne.

The fragrance has a smooth, woody scent that settles well into spice and roses.

Light Blue Eau Intense Pour Homme, 100ml, R1 330 They say: “Renew the sensual freshness of Light Blue unique accents, turning them a deeper shade of Mediterranean blue.”

We say: If the feeling of a cool sea breeze could be bottled, it would definitely smell like this.

The familiar notes of mandarin, juniper, and grapefruit from the original Light Blue are the first thing that hits you, but with the absence of spicy notes and addition of salty marine notes, this is a more concentrated scent for fans of the first Light Blue.

Grooming News

P H I L I P S AQ UATO U C H AT790 SHAVER, R746, AVAI L A B L E AT C L I C K S

ELEMIS MEN SKIN S O OT H E S H AV E G E L 150ML R505

LOOKING FOR AN UPDATE to your routine? We ask a male grooming expert for his best tips, and discover the scent du jour for your next fragrance purchase TE X T NOKUBONG A THUSI

3 WAYS TO...healthier-looking winter skin A one-size-fits-all approach isn’t always the best, especially with skin care. Establish your skin type, and use the correct cleanser: one with a clay or salicylic acid ingredient for oily skin, or a creamy foam cleanser if your skin is a little dry.

Use: Clinique City Block Purifying Charcoal Cleansing Gel, R300

Masking and exfoliating is just as important for men as it is for women.

Use an exfoliating mask to get rid of flaky skin and give skin a healthy appearance. Introduce a cleansing tool for a milder exfoliation during the week. This one also combats congestion and refines pores.

Use: GlamGlow Supermud Clearing Treatment Mask, R850

Hydration is the key when trying to achieve skin that looks as if it gets a weekly facial pamper. Men’s skin tends to be quite dry, so always finish off your skincare with a moisturiser or nourishing leaveon mask that does not dry out the skin after application.

Use: QMS Hydro-Foam Mask, 150ml, R865

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Grooming Go-To These g rooming destinations are top of our list for one-of-a-kind experiences — and we have one in ever y m aj o r c i t y CAPE TOWN Glasshouse Rejuvenation for Men, glasshousemen.co.za BEST FOR Watching sport and all-boys pamper sessions.

A place where you can get groomed and still catch your favourite sports? That sounds like a combination any man would be up for. We love this Cape Town spot for its variety of spa treatments, such as facials, massages, waxing, and Botox fillers, and the fact that it still creates a haven for men in a modern, cocktail-lounge setting.

JOHANNESBURG Bar Ber Black Sheep, facebook. com/barberblacksheepsa BEST FOR Gin cocktails and a trim.

When visiting Bar Ber Black Sheep in Rosebank you may find yourself a little torn between asking for a fresh haircut and cracking open a bottle of artisanal gin. Luckily you can do both, as the unique concept of this grooming parlour allows for a quick beard trim or an after-work drink. Its old-school leather chairs and monochromatic décor make it the perfect mix of tradition and millennial appeal.

DURBAN Men’s Grooming and Spa, mgsandspa.co.za BEST FOR The head-to-toe manscape.

“Anything you can do, we can do better” seems to be the mantra at this grooming spa, which offers every kind of treatment found at a female spa, but tailor-made for men. It’s a place for the grooming fanatic, and offers massages, shaves, manscaping — and even eyebrow tinting.

Five minutes with…

JARED HINES, OWNER OF HINES & HARLEY M E N’ S G R OOM ING LOUNG E

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hich three elements should men look for when choosing a grooming lounge? Men should look for a place that is unique — the atmosphere should be welcoming. They should also be looking for a place that has qualified, quality staff. Which product should every man have as part of his grooming kit? Every man should have, at least, an exfoliator; without proper exfoliation no product will be effective on the skin. Name “MEN ARE the three grooming essentials you swear THE FASTEST- by? For me, these would have to be my GROWING exfoliator and moisturiser, to keep my skin SEGMENT IN looking its best for as long as possible; and, THE SPA AND of course, my moustache wax. What would BEAUTY we be surprised to know about men and INDUSTRY. their attitudes towards grooming? Men the fastest-growing segment in the spa MEN ARE are and beauty industry. Men are taking their TAKING THEIR grooming very seriously, and it is now a GROOMING necessity rather than a spoil. What is your VERY SERIOUSLY, best tip for men who want to maintain AND IT IS NOW a consistent grooming routine without the A NECESSITY hassle? Find which style works for you and RATHER THAN what makes you feel the best, whether it is A SPOIL” clean shaven or a full beard: once you know that, maintaining that look will never be a hassle. Visiting your grooming lounge at least once a month also won’t hurt. What are your three best tips for maintaining a beard? Keep it clean: a clean beard is much easier to control. Use products such as beard oils and balms, make sure they are good quality, and keep your beard in line with a brush. Finally, regular trimming to get rid of stray hairs and to keep the shape looking neat. In grooming, which steps should men never skip? Skin care and healthy skin are the start of all grooming. Once the skin is healthy, it makes you look younger and better; to be truly well groomed you need to start with the skin. hinesandharley.co.za

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street sartorialist LOUIS VUITTON X Supreme offers inspiration for the intersection of tailored pieces and loose-fitting shapes and silhouettes. Textured knits and URBANE ESSENTIALS work perfectly for a new take on contemporary streetwear

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PHOTOGRAPHY ULRICH KNOBLAUCH AND SUPPLIED

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06 1. SHIRT, R180, MR P 2. ARTHUR JACK HUGHES LEATHER BELT, R250, TREAD + M I L L E R 3. COAT, R8 599, TIGER OF SWEDEN 4. CAP, R649, PRINGLE OF SCOTLAND 5. TROUSERS, R3 799, TED BAKER 6. RAY-BAN SUNGLASSES, R2 999, MAT & MAY 7. BLAZER, R5 299, TED BAKER 8. COAT, R5 999, ODRIN 9. SNEAKERS, R1 999, BEN SHERMAN 10. KNIT, R899, COUNTRY ROAD 11. WATC H , R 3 1 9 5 , S I M O N C A R T E R 1 2 . CHRISTOPHER CANVAS TRAVEL BAG, R40 OOO, LOUIS VUITTON

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HEN I TELL PEOPLE I’m a motoring journalist, they always want to know what my favourite car is. And my answer is always the same: damn, that’s a tough one.

I’ve probably driven more than a thousand cars, and there have been many, many great ones. Yet one that has always stood out is the Porsche 911.

Yes, I know, this sounds like a contemporary motoring journalist cliché. In a world filled with Magnus Walkers and Singers and Workshop 5001s, it’s easy to be swept up and made all giddy by the great 911 hype. This German sportscar has become the epitome of automotive hipsterism. It’s right up there with beards and plaid and single-speed, steel-frame bicycles, not to mention pulled-pork sandwiches. Almost overnight, the 911 became the darling of the fashionably uncool.

Like a bottle of artisanal beer, it suddenly morphed into the ultimate alternative lifestyle accessory.

So it’s easy to board the gravy train and loudly proclaim your undying love. However, and perhaps you might have already picked up on this, I have been a fan since before I could write. When I was a kid I had an old ice-cream tub full of Matchbox models: a mobile garage that harboured all sorts of interesting colours and shapes and angles. The one I liked the most had these big, bloated wheel arches and a huge wing protruding from the space below its rear windscreen. I asked my mom what it was and whether it existed in real life. She told me that it did and that it was called a Porsche.

Porsche? Damn, talk about exotic-sounding.

Now, when you’re a kid you don’t expect to see such objects of affection in real life, but then one day I did. It was probably on the old Parkhurst strip, walking with my mom to the American Café, that I first saw a 911 in the metal. And, as with my Matchbox model, I was smitten. It had a shape unlike anything else: a hunkered-down profile that intrigued me. Even back then, I could sense there was something very different about this car.

A couple of decades later, I’d find out that there certainly was. You see, just before the hipsters adopted them as their own, the old air-cooled Porsche 911 models were a dime a dozen.

You could, on a sunny Sunday afternoon, page through the Autotrader and find many tidy examples vying for a new home. Taking advantage of his downplayed mid-life crisis, I encouraged my old man to get one. And he did.

For the price of a new Renault Sandero Stepway, he acquired a 1980 Porsche 911 SC. Although its

MOTORING

The Porsche 911 a visceral pleasure TE X T T H O M A S FA L K I N E R

The future t ext CRA I G W I L S ON

An update is available for your car Traditionally, to enjoy the latest in car technology you’ve had to invest in a whole new vehicle, but companies such as Elon Musk’s Tesla are looking to change that.

Features such as self-driving capability may arrive with a software update, similar to those that bring new features to your smartphone.

Tesla’s latest auto-pilot features — which can automatically keep a car in its lane or navigate stop start traffic with little-to-no driver intervention — arrived via precisely these means: an update from the internet pushed to the car over WiFi. The latest Tesla vehicles already had the requisite sensors and other hardware pre-installed; all that was needed was software to put it to use. Expect to see other car manufacturers following suit with features that aren’t available when you buy a new car showing up down the line.

Smarter phones for smarter cars Autonomous driving will eventually take our eyes off the road and our hands off the steering wheel, freeing us to do other things… such as spending even more time on our smartphones than we already do. Like cars, phones are only getting smarter, both in terms of what their hardware is capable of, and how their software can harness these features. The latest Samsung S8 and S8+ devices, for example, have moved the fingerprint sensor to the rear of the handset to make space for the giant, almost edge-to-edge display on the front. But who needs fingerprints when you can unlock the phone with a glance? Both devices include support for facial recognition and iris scanning, meaning your face — or the fingerprint-like unique patterns of your iris — can be used to unlock your phone, make purchases, or secure your sensitive information.

But don’t forget to check you’ve locked it It won’t be long before connected cars and smartphones work together: from an app on your phone that allows you to warm your car from afar on a winter’s day, or security features on your phone to ensure you’re the only one for whom your car will start. In the near future of autonomous cars, security will be more important than ever. Companies such as Russian cybersecurity firm Kaspersky are working with car manufacturers to ensure automation features are protected from hackers and other malicious agents looking to turn those newfound smarts against users by, for example, locking your car until you pay a ransom to unlock it.

Just as having the latest software on your phone protects you, it’ll be imperative that you keep your car’s software up to date. Perhaps it’s time to check the strength of the WiFi network in your garage?

listening, via my fingers and thighs, to what the car was telling me. Once we’d established some kind of rapport, the SC and I got along fine.

My dad, unfortunately, is no longer around, but the Porsche is. More than ever, I look forward to driving it, and I especially look forward to all the trappings that come with the privilege of doing so. The aroma of hot oil (13-litres, no less); that distinctive, clattery roar of the flat-six engine; those five analogue dials that broadcast everything I need to know about the car’s vitals — and nothing I don’t.

This 30-year-old juggernaut has become my personal decompression chamber. What also makes the SC special is the fact that it comes attached to a heritage few marques can match.

It stems from a breed of car that, in many different guises, of course, killed it in the racing world.

Consequently, it’s extremely easy to imagine that you’re some gentleman racing driver hurtling down the old Mulsanne straight at Le Mans.

Yeah, driving an old air-cooled Porsche is escapism mixed in with a good helping of romance and danger. It reaffirms my love of the automobile and reawakens senses that have, thanks to the flattery of modern cars, been left to atrophy.

I READ WHAT I LIKE Lidudumalingani Mqombothi is is a writer, photog rapher, and filmmaker. His short stor y, Memories We Lost, garnered him the prestigious Caine Prize for African Writing in 2016. He shares some of his favourite book s with us compiled by NTOMBENHLE SHEZI

G A B R I E L G A R C Í A M Á R Q U E Z One Hundred Years of Solitude The poetry and mysticism with which Gabriel Garcia Marquez renders the villages is what I find most fascinating about his writing. He has been a hand firmly holding my own in writing about the villages; helping me think through not only the landscape —but also the ways in which the village has a magic that always strikes people as being from a dark world — and how to write it as nothing but the unfolding of the everyday, the overly familiar.

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paint wore the patina of a life well-lived, it was, for all intents and purposes, in great mechanical nick. After the inevitable buyer’s remorse he really started to bond with it. So did I: simply because it was like no other car I’d ever piloted before — it was eccentric. The interior ventilation controls made no sense. The heater was actuated via a lever set in-between the two seats. The pedals were offset. The steering wheel was positioned too close to the dash. Yet all these quirks seemed to disappear the moment you twisted that key.

For somebody accustomed to glossy new pressfleet cars filled with driver aids and active suspension technologies, this old mechanical 911 was something of a revelation, not to mention a challenge.

We have all heard the gory horror stories about how disobedient these tail-heavy machines can be. And after just a few short sessions behind the wheel I discovered that they were nothing but true.

I soon learnt that driving an old 911 demanded respect and patience: slow in, fast out — never lift.

Unlike in an Audi TTS, you had to think about the corner approaching. You couldn’t just bulldoze your way in and hope for the best. I found myself thinking much more about my driving technique and

JA M E S B A L D W I N Giovanni’s Room At the juncture at which I read Giovanni’s Room, it could have unsettled my own thinking, which, after spending 18 years of my life in the villages, was pretty stern on ideas of sexuality. Or it could have been uninteresting to me, easy to dismiss, in the manner in which one dismisses ideas that appear to our own thinking as ridiculous. It did the former, in the classic way of James Baldwin’s writing, from Go Tell it on the Mountain, to his essays — you feel, as you read it, that it is meticulously turning your own understanding of the world inside out.

P H A S WA N E M P E Welcome to Our Hillbrow I am convinced place is part structure and part character, and, when thinking of this, the one text that comes to mind is Phaswane Mpe’s Welcome to Our Hillbrow. I find it difficult — even impossible — to write about a place whose behaviour, beauty, danger, and allure is unfamiliar to me. It is not enough that I am told of a place: I have to experience it myself to completely get a sense of it. Reading this book taught me how to think of place as a character.

A N N E M I C H A E L S Fugitive Pieces Fugitive Pieces reads like a long poem, composing even the most horrific incidents in the most beautiful piece of writing, without losing the impact of the narrative. Often, while reading this, I would find myself, first, gritting my teeth in anticipation with a young Jakob Beer, wishing that he escapes a police roadblock; and, second, completely beguiled by the poetry with which this is told.

B E S S I E H E A D When Rain Clouds Gather I have much admiration for Bessie Head.

When Rain Clouds Gather is one of her most important works for me. This is because it grapples with what is my everyday existence — that of being part modernist and part traditionalist; this is important, both in my being and in my own work. It is an identity that is often at odds with itself, as the book shows, but also one that can be integrated.

G E O R G E H A L L E T Portraits of African Writers I think of George Hallet not only as a photographer, but also as a visual cartographer.

He has made images all around the world, and when looking at each image, one is transported to where he was when he made that particular image. In that moment, until we look away, our body and soul exist in distant dimensions; the physical is in the now, but the soul has travelled elsewhere. In Portraits of African Writers, Hallet invents a way in which to time travel, to see a young Dambudzo Marechera, Chinua Achebe, Zoë Wicombe, et al represented as they should be: young writers with the entire universe in the palm of their hands.

PHOTOGRAPHY LYDIA WESSLES ILLUSTRATIONS L’MRI ERASMUS

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3 1. HOODED JACKET, R2 999, SUPERDRY 2. ARTHUR JACK BELT, R299, TREAD + M I L L E R 3. SNEAKERS, R1 499, LE COQ SPORTIF 4. PUFFER JACKET, R3 299, G-STAR RAW 5. RAY-BAN SUNGLASSES, R1 999, LU XOTTICA 6. T-SHIRT, R1 099, DIESEL 7. ZENITH PILOT CAFÉ RACER WATCH, R120 000, PICOT & MOSS 8. TROUSERS, R2 699, SCOTCH & SODA 9. SCARF, R999, SCOTCH & SODA 10. CAMO TOP, R550, OLD KHAKI 11. SNEAKERS, R20 100, JIMMY CHOO 12. E L E G A N C E BACKPACK, R19 000, BOSS

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PHOTOGRAPHY ULRICH KNOBLAUCH, GALLO/GETTY IMAGES, AND SUPPLIED

A fusion of fashion and functionality best describes the military trend. This time around the tough look, taking inspiration from BALMAIN, is softened with EMBELLISHED detailing, FAUX FUR, and PRINT on durable fabrics

IMAGES GALLO/GETTY AND SUPPLIED

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OR T R Y T HES E 3. B OM B E R JACKE T, R 4 599, DIESEL 4. T R E N C H COAT, R3 999, T R E NE R Y

1. E MP O RI O A RM A NI SUNGLASSES, R1 790, LU XOT T I C A 2. O L D K H A K I PARKA, R1 699, CAPE UNION MA RT

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colour wash Worn immaculately tailored or casually layered, THE TONAL TREND gets a masculine makeover with earth-bound autumnals and a military palette COMPI LE D BY NOTHE M BA M KHOND O A N D R A N A A PAT E L

OR T R Y T HES E 1. SHA W L NE C K JE RSE Y, R6 5 0 , OLD KHAKI 2. A N K L E B O OTS , F R O M R2 1 9 9 , G RE E N CROSS

5. D R M A RTE N S , R1 499, EDGARS 6. B O M B E R JACKET, R799, H&M

3. BELT, R499, T R E NE R Y 4. B E A N I E , R160, W OOLW ORT H S 5. OV E R COAT, R 6 999, ODR I N

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art IN NUMBERS

B A N E L E K H OZ A was born in Swaziland in 1994. This young savant has been on the South African art scene since he was 17 years old, and is recognised for his large-scale paintings, through which he explores the complexities of the self, commercialism, and gender. Khoza was recently announced as the 2017 winner of the SA Taxi Foundation Art Award.

2. SMAC GALLERY

ED YOUNG Self-styled bad boy Ed Young was born in 1978 in the Free State, and forsook a career in architecture to focus on his art. He works primarily with installation and video mediums, and has been alternately derided and lauded for his facetiously offensive, provocative art-fair showstoppers.

3 GOODMAN GALLERY

G H A DA A M E R was born in Egypt and is based in New York City. She is best known for her singular use of embroidery; her oeuvre addresses the paradoxes that arise within artificial binaries. Amer’s work will feature at the inaugural exhibition of the Zeitz Museum of Contemporary Art Africa in September.

4. AFRONOVA

B I L L I E Z A N G E WA was born in 1973 in Malawi. She works with rich textiles, such as silk, to create intimate, collage-like micro-narratives on canvas. Her deceptively simple pieces explore identity and contemporary womanhood. Her show at Art Paris 2017 sold out in 19 minutes, and there is a long international waiting list for her work.

5. EVERARD READ

MMAKGABO MAPULA HELEN SE B IDI wa s born in the then Northern Transvaal in 1943, and is widely regarded as Africa’s pre-eminent living woman painter. Her work, with multi-layered, oil impastos, hints at a deep and rich spirituality now being eradicated by modern culture. Sebidi’s paintings are timeless, and she is on course to cement her place among the masters of postcolonial art.

t ext N TOM B EN HLE S HEZI

2001 The year Morgan’s daughter, whom he describes as the love of his life, was born.

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The number of cities where the Afropunk festival takes place each year. Atlanta, Paris, Brooklyn, London, and now Johannesburg.

40-million

6. TYBURN GALLERY

L A DY S KO L L I E was born in 1987 in Cape Town. Her paintings speak to her unapologetically playful, empowering treatment of sexuality and sexual politics. Her appealingly unique paradigm is beginning to garner international recognition, and in 2017 a selection of her works featured in a solo show, entitled Lust Politics, at the Tyburn Gallery in London.

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STEVENSON

M O S H E KWA L A N G A rose to international prominence in the late 1990s. His work encompasses installation, sculpture, and drawing, and has demonstrated considerable staying power, with some of his pieces being included in notable current exhibitions, such as Art/Afrique, at Fondation Louis Vuitton.

8. WHATIFTHEWORLD BUHLEBEZWE SIWA NI Michaelis graduate Buhlebezwe Siwani is a fascinating figure, both a practising iSangoma, and an up-and-coming performance artist. Her work addresses the complex ramifications of her multifaceted identity, and is currently on show at the Fondation Louis Vuitton in Paris.

9. STEVENSON

K E M A N G WA L E H U L E R E was born in 1984 in Cape Town, and has fast become one of South Africa’s best-known artists.

His art spans painting, drawing and sculpture, with a focus on deconstructing prescribed meanings, and exploring African histories. Wa Lehulere was named Deutsche Bank’s Artist of the Year 2017.

10. STEVENSON

N A N D I P H A M N TA M B O was born in 1982 in Swaziland. Her work began to garner widespread attention when she won the Standard Bank Young Artist Award for Visual Art in 2011. She works with photography, sculpture, and video to explore the intersections of biology, representation, and the significance of the human body.

IMAGES SUPPLIED BY THE RESPECTIVE GALLERIES

1. SMITH STUDIO

Afropunk’s M AT T H E W M O R GA N Afropunk is a music festival that brings together black alternative bands to perform for music lovers around the world.

Its co-founder, Matthew Morgan, is finally bringing the festival to Johannesburg after more than a decade of successful runs in North America and Europe. We hunt down some interesting facts about the London-born music and fashion lover

The number of people that Afropunk.com reaches online each month.

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The number of local and international acts who will be performing at Afropunk Johannesburg, including headliner Solange Knowles, this year.

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The date Morgan’s father passed away, tattooed on his arm as a reminder for him to keep working hard.

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The duration in minutes of Afropunk the documentary, which depicts the black American punk scene.

3 1. BANELE KHOZ A, UNTITLED, 2017 2. ED YOUNG, THE SMOKER, 2013 3. GHADA AMER, THE GRID OF 2017 – RFGA, 2017 4. B I L L I E Z A N G E WA, E V E R Y WOMAN, 2016 5. MMAKGABO MAPULA H E L E N S E B I D I , T H E P E O P L E A R E C A L L E D TO SEE THE INITIATES, 2014-2015 6. L A DY SKOLLIE, KHOISAN KWEEN MOTHER, 2017 7. MOSHEKWA LANGA, MOTHERS, 2015/16 8. BUHLEBEZWE SIWANI,INTSENTE, 2016 9. KEMANG WA LEHULERE, MY APOLOGIES TO TIME, 2017 10. NANDIPHA MNTAMBO, MINOTAURUS, 2015

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The Afropunk Festival will be taking place in Johannesburg at Constitution Hill on December 30 and 31.

a decade of art

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To celebrate the fantastic milestone of 10 YEARS OF THE JOBURG ART FAIR we asked director Mandla Sibeko to identify his 10 must-have artworks on display at the fair this year t ex t PAU L A A N D R O P O U LOS

travel VITAL STATS

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news

what’s your whisky?

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WHO: Chad le Clos, swimmer WHAT: Kilchoman Machir Bay He caused a stir at a very young age, as has Islay upstart Kilchoman by releasing an abundance of highly acclaimed expressions since its inception in 2005. Machir Bay is the most iconic of the lot and, like le Clos, has received loads of awards for a fresh, brazen style that’s hard to ignore.

WHO: Mohau Modisakeng, visual artist WHAT: The Macallan Fine Oak 18-Year-Old A rising star in the art world, Modisakeng’s stark, uncompromising vision is both richly resonant and deeply personal. Much like The Macallan Fine Oak 18-YearOld, it’s best to spend quiet, reflective time absorbing his work’s distinct nuances, pieces that will, like most Macallans, undoubtedly grow to become very worthwhile investments.

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WHO: Malusi Gigaba, Minister of Finance WHAT: Johnnie Walker Swing Given that his love life has the cadence of an erratic pendulum, it seems right that Gigaba drowns it all out with a bottle of Johnnie Walker Swing, so named because the bottle rocks when pushed. It’s also a collectible conversation piece, the perfect distraction from those uncomfortable questions.

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WHO: Pravin Gordhan, former Minister of Finance WHAT: Three Ships 15-YearOld Pinotage Cask Finish Like Gordhan, this astounding expression has given South Africa international credibility, and is universally lauded for its complex charm.

It’s a world first, patriotically finished in pinotage casks and imbued with an earthy, wine-soaked sweetness — the perfect dram to help you deal with all that crap at work.

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WHO: Maps Maponyane, presenter and entrepreneur WHAT: Chivas Regal Ultis One of the most approachable A-listers around, Maponyane naturally exudes Chivas Regal’s commitment to shared successes. He also effortlessly balances a diverse range of personal pursuits, accomplishments, and talents, and is perfectly paired with Ultis and its impeccable blend of five hand-selected signature single malts.

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IMAGES GETTY/GALLO AND SUPPLIED ILLUSTRATIONS L’MERI ERASMUS

Dram the Man selects bottles for a select few

WHO: Fabio Di Cosmo, nightclub owner WHAT: Compass Box ThreeYear-Old Deluxe Di Cosmo is the John Glaser of South African nightlife. Glaser is the boss at Compass Box, whiskymakers who consistently raise a middle finger to the establishment with irreverent, high quality, beautifully designed expressions that buck trends and win fans — a lot like Di Cosmo’s And club and its flagship night, Toy Toy.

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OR THOSE WHO LIVE LIFE at high speed, whether they’re timing their morning jog or recording lap times at Kyalami on the weekend, there’s nothing quite like taking advantage of the stopwatch functionality of an automatic chronograph.

Our fascination with motor racing and speed has led to some pretty remarkable releases in the world of watches.

Here are three of our current favourites.

TUDOR HERITAGE BLACK BAY CHRONOGRAPH This sporty piece is the first chronograph in the Heritage Black Bay family, and is powered by the Calibre MT5813, which features a column-wheel mechanism and vertical clutch, for smooth operation of the chronograph function. Tudor’s links to motorsport go back to 1970, with the release of its Prince Oysterdate Chronograph.

Aesthetically, this new timepiece is a hybrid of diver’s and motorsport watches. It is presented in a 41mm steel case with an engraved tachymetric scale on the bezel, and a domed matt black dial; and is sure to become a favourite on the racetrack. It boasts a 70-hour power reserve, a silicon balance spring and certification by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute.

Price: from R71 590 (on bracelet); visit tudorwatch.com for stockists M O N T B L A N C T I M E WA L K E R C H R O N O G R A P H 1 0 0 0 L IMIT ED EDI T I O N 1 8 Race-track triumphs can now be accurately recorded to 1/1000th of a second thanks to this covetable piece, which is limited to an edition of 18, at €175 000 each.

Ten years ago Montblanc acquired Minerva, which is responsible for the new calibre MB M 66.26 inside this 46.4mm chronograph in black diamond-like carbon titanium — part of the new family, with its dial components inspired by car instrumentation. The double counter at 6 o’clock records the elapsed whole seconds (longer red-tipped hand) and minutes, up to 15 minutes.

A full rotation of the red centre hand takes one second and indicates 1/100th of a second. The 1/1000th of a second is displayed at 12 o’clock, along a 0 to 9 scale.

Call Montblanc on 011 325 5571, or visit montblanc.com OMEGA SPEEDMASTER RACING MASTER C HR O N O ME T E R The original Speedmaster Broad Arrow was created in 1957 and was so named because of its distinctive hands.

It was the first chronograph wristwatch with its tachymeter scale engraved on the bezel — a feature included for the benefit of racing drivers. The Speedmaster Racing Master Chronometer, with a 44.25mm case in leather and a perforated orange rubber strap, references a particularly rare racing dial from 1968, with its distinctive bicolour track-style minute markers, orange baton hands, and logo.

Its motor racing heritage is demonstrated by a matt black dial featuring orange markings and bevelled 18k whitegold, arrowhead indexes. This watch is powered by the very reliable automatic-winding calibre 9900.

Price: on request; call Swatch Group for stockists on 011 911 1200, or visit omega.com

WATCHES

race time T E X T G A R Y COT T E R E L L

TUDOR HERITAGE BLACK BAY CHRONOGRAPH

M O N T B L A N C T I M E WA L K E R CHRONOGRAPH 1000 LIMITED EDITION 18

OMEGA SPEEDMASTER RACING MASTER CHRONOMETER

H

E GAVE GRACE TO the beautiful game. He made love to the ball, leaving his supporters in orgasms of joy, titillated from head to toe by his masterful act. His goals were exquisite.

Close your eyes. Now imagine him slicing a sensational volley to help Real Madrid win the Uefa Champions League. Or better yet, see him with the eye of your mind belting a thumping header to help France beat Brazil to win the final of the 1998 Soccer World Cup on home soil.

Now snap out of it. Your imagination isn’t playing games with you. Those were real life moments when the living legend brought glory to club and country. Zinedine “Zizou” Zidane is a special breed among all us mere mortals who swear by the round shaped pigskin around the world. He is certainly cut from the cloth of football royalty.

Let’s count his bounty of talents. As a player, he played with Ronaldo — the real Ronaldo, the rabbit-toothed Brazilian — at Real. As part of the Galácticos — the galaxy of stars he played with at Real, assembled by club president Florentino Pérez, included Roberto Carlos, Luis Figo, Raul, and David Beckham — Zidane (at least in my book) stood head and shoulders above the rest. With his gung-ho finishing, goal-machine Ronaldo was unstoppable, a benefactor of colossus Zidane’s creative finesse and downright breathtaking pin-point passing.

Zizou also played against Ronaldo when the two men went into the battle for their respective countries. Zidane was reinvigorated; Ronaldo incapacitated. With Zidane the orchestra conductor, Les Blues brushed aside the Seleção in emphatic fashion.

Zidane now coaches the other Ronaldo, the Portuguese who has scored more than 400 goals for Real. The club described as the best in the world were off the rails when Zidane took over in January 2016. His predecessor, Rafa Benitez, had battled to bottle the super-size egos of the star-studded dressing room at the Santiago Bernabéu. His reign ended in a mere six months.

SPORT Enter Zizou, a coaching graduate from Real’s B team. The cynics questioned whether he would rise to the challenge, given that few people succeed in making the transition from being great player to becoming an even better coach.

Doomsayers have been dismissed in decisive style. Zizou has collected an impressive catalogue of crowns: 2016-17 Spanish champions, 2015-16 Uefa Champions League champions, 2016 Uefa Champions League Super Cup, and the 2016 Fifa Club World Cup. All in 16 months. If that’s not magical, then I don’t know what is.

T E X T B A R E N G - B AT H O KO RTJA A S Greats of the game showered praise on Zizou during his playing heyday.

“Zidane is the master. Over the past ten years, there’s been no one like him, he has been the best player in the world,” gushed Pelé, Brazil’s famous number 10.

“Technically, I think he is the king of what’s fundamental in the game — control and passing.

Zizou was a phenomenal I don’t think anyone can match him when it comes player in his heyday, and to controlling or receiving the ball,” praised Michel now he’s shown he has Platini, French number 10. the coaching chops as well Zidane is on the cusp of capturing another Champions League title, a feat he will achieve if Real beat Juventus in the 2016-17 Champions League final at the Millennium Stadium in Cardiff on June 3.

The game was yet to be played at the time of going to print, but whether Zidane adds another trophy to his cabinet or not, he has undoubtedly cast himself as one of the greatest of all time on the coaching front.

He currently occupies the main seat at the top table of the universal football kingdom of great footballers who went on to become better managers such as Johan Cruyff and Pep Guardiola, to name but two.

ZIDANE true football royalty

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Remington also offers the Recharge Facial Brush — the perfect grooming tool for the modern man.

Recharge will leave dad’s face looking fresher, healthier, and feeling cleaner than ever before. The dual-action, rotating-brush technology provides a deep cleanse to remove impurities trapped in pores where the fingertips can’t reach. The Recharge also cleanses deep into stubble to soften facial hair, and lifts flat-lying hairs to ensure a smoother, easier shave. Both the Remington Beard Kit and Recharge Facial Brush are available exclusively at selected Clicks stores.

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politics Bongani Siqoko, editor of the Sunday Times, weighs up the next six months of the internal leadership strugg le in the ANC

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GRAPHIC What the downgrade really means t ex t A S H A S P E C K M A N / i n f o g ra p h i c H A N N A H H U G H E S

There is no doubt this campaign will be dirty and ugly, as previous ones — both here and elsewhere in the world — have shown. Not even Olivia Pope, the crack political communications guru who has rescued so many political campaigns in the popular US drama series Scandal (in South Africa it is called The Fixer), will be able to save some of the candidates.

History is replete with stories of how campaigns such as these have ended the fledging careers of many politicians. You may remember Chuka Umunna, an up-and-coming UK Labour Party politician. Two years ago Umunna threw his name into the hat for the leadership of the Labour Party after Ed Miliband announced he was stepping down. There was excitement all around, with many likening him to then US president Barrack Obama. He too, like Obama, had an African as a father, was well educated, and had entered politics at university. Three days after entering the race, Umunna shocked everyone when he announced his withdrawal.

The real story of why he withdrew is yet to be told. What is known is that immediately after he announced his candidacy, his political

opponents started spreading rumours that Umunna was gay and one of his family members was a leading member of the terrorist group Boko Haram. Umunna denies both.

You have to pity the incoming leader of the ANC. Whoever wins the race will have a more difficult first two years in office than any other recent ANC president. The new leader will inherit a dying ANC, fraught with corruption, infighting, and scandals in its upper echelons of leadership. Eighteen months after winning the race, the new leader will take over a country in crisis mode — that is, if he or she manages to lead the party to victory in the 2019 elections.

I say “if”, as there is now a great possibility that the ANC could be dislodged in the coming national and provincial elections. Both Gwede Mantashe, the secretary-general of the ANC, and Ramaphosa have already warned that if the ANC does not self-correct, it must kiss power goodbye. There is still an option available to the ruling party. It has to rebrand and transform itself into a modern political party. The question is: does the ANC have it in itself to self-correct?

Your guess is as good as mine.

#TWITTERVIEW

Flamboyant Police Minister Fikile “R azzmatazz” Mbalula has an exuberant presence online.

We find out a bit more about the “Minister of Social Media” q u e s t i o n s T H A N D U XOLO J I KA

What are some of the weirdest things you get asked on Twitter?

Since joining the police, people ask me to certify their documents and make affidavits.

How do you respond? I take

Does it ever get serious? I have

this as simple humour, and I respond in the same way. I appreciate that people are able to communicate with me about serious matters, and are able to poke fun.

seen comments of serious crimes on Twitter, to which we responded then and resolved through the complaints officer in my office.

Are you the same person in real life as on Twitter?

Yes, what you see is what you get.

Do you moderate your responses?

I communicate government information and messages not in a boring way that will alienate a young person, but also not in a way that will chase an older person away.

How do you explain your online popularity?

What’s your view on #blacktwitter’s views? They are

The growth of my following on these platforms has been because I communicate with all age groups in a simple, understandable, and entertaining way.

the best: you can’t fool them. They are woke and are very socially aware.

Most campaigns are successful only if you involve #blacktwitter.

What entertains you on Twitter?

Twitter on Sundays after the morning newspaper readings, and in the afternoon when people are watching Mzansi Magic shows. It’s called Sunday Twitter and it’s lit.

Do you have any competition on Twitter? No.

ILLUSTRATION L’MRI ERASMUS

A

S THE GOVERNING ANC PREPARES to elect new leadership at the party’s 54th national elective conference in Johannesburg, set to be attended by more than 4 000 delegates, prepare to be dazzled this December.

If you think the last couple of months have been interesting, then you’ve seen nothing yet. Just wait for the second half of the year. Those of you who, like me, enjoy watching political thrillers, are in for a treat.

This is because the campaign to elect President Jacob Zuma’s successor already reads like a political movie script — a blockbuster pitting the former wife of a sitting president against the daughter of a revered struggle stalwart, and two senior politicians — both of whom have married sisters of one of the country’s most prominent businessmen.

The ANC is yet to declare the campaign open, but all the contenders to the throne have already launched their campaigns.

Veteran politician Nkosazana Dlamini-Zuma was first off the mark. Since leaving her job at the helm of the African Union Commission in Addis Ababa at the end of January, Dlamini-Zuma has spent every single week on the campaign trail — addressing an average of three gatherings a week.

She says she is not campaigning. Do not buy it. Dlamini-Zuma badly wants the top job. She has reportedly told people close to her, and those that want her to drop out of the race, that she would do everything in her power to land the top job.

Who would not? This is the most powerful political deployment on the continent — putting you at the helm of the oldest liberation movement in Africa.

In late May, her NDZ17-branded “campaign bus” made a pit stop in East London where DlaminiZuma addressed a gathering of the South African Funeral Practitioners Association. Exactly how a speech to funeral undertakers helps her campaign is anyone’s guess.

But Dlamini-Zuma’s criss-crossing of the country is understandable. She is up against sitting Deputy President Cyril Ramaphosa. He is running on a ticket that relies heavily on an unwritten tradition in the ANC that the deputy ascends to power when the incumbent steps down.

Many of his loyalists argue for the practice to continue, as they did in 2007 when they campaigned tirelessly for then deputy president Zuma to replace then president Thabo Mbeki. But Zuma wants his former wife to take over from him. He has even denied the existence of such a tradition. This is funny, as this is what got him elected ANC president a decade ago.

You cannot talk about the ANC and not mention or acknowledge the role played by the Sisulus in the struggle for the liberation of this country. Walter and Albertina Sisulu are towering figures of the fight that brought apartheid to its knees. Now one of their children, Lindiwe, a seasoned politician in her own right, has launched a campaign to lead the organisation that her parents gave up their lives to build.

She hopes to use her family name and her record of clean governance and scandal-free public life to mount a campaign for the party’s highest office.

Then there is Jeff Radebe — yes, he of the nudes request — who is the longest-serving Cabinet member. Radebe has served all democratically elected presidents: Nelson Mandela, Mbeki, interim president Kgalema Motlanthe, and now Zuma. He really believes his time has come and has spent the last couple of months building his campaign machinery across the country, away from the glare of the media.

Radebe and Ramaphosa, who are both married to mining magnate Patrice Motsepe’s sisters, are supposed to be Zuma’s right-hand men, as they are both in the Presidency. But revelations of Radebe’s relationship with presidential photographer, Siyasanga Mbambani, could torpedo his campaign, as the Sunday Times reported in May. This Presidency sex scandal is exactly what you can expect in the coming months: there will be scandals galore. The campaign will divide families in the middle — the same way the Soweto derby game between Kaizer Chiefs and Orlando Pirates does. People’s good names will be tarnished. They will be dragged through the mud. Ultimately, good names will be destroyed. You will also witness friends becoming enemies overnight.

Here is some advice: if you are in the ANC and have an interest in the campaign, the best thing to do between now and December is to guard your good name with everything that you have. After all is said and done, all you will be left with is your name.

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S

IX YEARS AGO, Kobus van der Merwe quit his job as an online editor for a restaurant review website in Cape Town. He wasn’t quite sure what it was that he needed to do, but he knew he wanted to start afresh and do something more hands-on with food. And so he moved out of the city to the arid West Coast town of Paternoster to live in a beautiful yet Spartan cottage deep in the veld.

What happened next was even more unusual. Rather than opening a fish-andchip shop or a classic seafood restaurant — businesses that would have a decent chance of survival — he started something completely different with his restaurant, Oep ve Koep. The restaurant is unpretentious, yet challenging, and radically different from anything to which even “foodie” South Africans are accustomed.

It has rapidly become a benchmark for modern, adventurous, locavore food that also reflects centuries of culinary heritage.

The West Coast is a harsh, bleak part of the South African coastline, stretching from Cape Town right up to the Namibian border. The further north you drive, the drier the land becomes. Quite soon, it has become semi-desert.

Trees are few and far between, farming is tough, the wind is a constant companion, swimming in the icy Atlantic Ocean is an activity reserved for the brave, and the weather is consistently harsh.

Harsh and hot, or harsh and cold: take your pick.

Of all the coastal towns on the West Coast, Paternoster is the postcard-worthy jewel. It features old, whitewashed fishing cottages and a growing number of well-known eateries; during the summer months it attracts both foreign and local visitors willing to make the two-hour drive from Cape Town.

SPARTAN SUPPER

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Van der Merwe’s family used to farm in the Northern Cape and for most of his youth — until his parents moved there permanently — Paternoster was the family’s holiday spot. Now the van der Merwes run a shop (also called Oep ve Koep) in a building that used to be a shark-liver oil factory. Van der Merwe’s restaurant, which is on the same property, spilling out from his tiny kitchen into a small garden where its tables are set, has become the town’s most notable culinary draw card.

What van der Merwe drives through on his daily commute from his home — a tiny dwelling on an isolated smallholding about 15 minutes’ drive from Paternoster village — is Strandveld.

The word literally means “beach scrub” in Afrikaans, and Strandveld is a type of vegetation specific to the West Coast of South Africa.

(Its full name is Cape Flats Dune Strandveld and it is officially defined as endangered.)

The Strandveld around Paternoster covers land that was once ancient coastline — aka the larder of hunter-gatherer-forager peoples, the San and the Khoi-Khoi. Drive into town with van der Merwe on his commute and you’ll find him regularly stopping during the journey, and not just to move tortoises off the sandy road.

Without a word of warning, he pulls up, puts his leather hat on his head, and disappears into a clump of innocuous-looking shrubs growing in the sand to search for plants — plants that turn out to be not only edible, but very tasty too.

For decades, South African restaurant cuisine has been outward-looking, exploring tastes derived from what happened across oceans in another hemisphere. This included the national palate, which was borrowed from Europe, even though there was a wealth of distinctive indigenous ingredients from which

to create truly local dishes. Van der Merwe is at the vanguard of a new South African pride in valuing our culinary heritage.

“I’m extremely inspired by the landscape of the West Coast and its wild food offerings,” he says. “The more I’ve experimented, studied, and researched, the more fascinated and obsessed I’ve become. I think South Africa’s love of exoticism is finally changing.

Even just on a small scale — such as using local olive oil instead of imported.

“I think the foraging trend will blow over, but to me, being ‘on trend’ has never been the point. We don’t have the abundance of wild food to sustain everyone suddenly picking dune spinach willy-nilly anyway,” van der Merwe says. “It’s about rediscovering forgotten indigenous flavours and appreciating, nurturing, and cultivating a culture of understanding and pride in what’s truly ‘homegrown’. Hopefully, that includes ... propagating indigenous species sustainably in a kind of small-scale permaculture or eco-agriculture... but even if it’s just planting your own wild garlic and kapokbos (indigenous wild rosemary) in pots at home, that’s already great.”

Van der Merwe’s adoption of local and indigenous coastal ingredients is informed by the recent past, the distant past, and the present. Before it became cool to forage, van der Merwe was digging around in the dunes for long-forgotten succulents and other plants. Much of his inspiration came from the Afrikaans poet, cook, and naturalist C Louis Leipoldt.

“I grew up with my parents and grandparents using Leipoldt’s cookbooks,” van der Merwe says. “I’ve always admired his extensive knowledge of indigenous veldkos (bush food) and his passion for cooking innovative, truly local dishes with it. He was a true renaissance man: physician, botanist, chef, poet. There’s a bit of hero-worshipping from my side; his 1933 book, Kos vir die Kenner (Food for the Connoisseur), is my heritage food bible.”

TE XT T U D O R C A R A D O C - DAV I E S PRODUCTION SV E N A L B E R D I N G P HOTOGRAP HY WA RREN H EATH / ALL BUREAUX.CO.ZA

Forager-chef KOBUS VAN DER MERWE’S Daily commute features farm gates, scrubby dunes, and the occasional stop to remove tortoises from his path. And the journey frequently doubles as an opportunity to stock up on ingredients for his celebrated restaurant, OEP VE KOEP

food

GET COOKING

1. WEST COAST OYSTER IN ITS ELEMENT 6 medium oysters from Saldanha Bay, shucked A large handful of freshly picked sea lettuce Fresh young ice plant leaves Samphire tips Dune celery leaves Squeeze of fresh lemon Top the freshly shucked oysters with pieces of freshly picked sea lettuce, young ice plant leaves, samphire tips, and dune celery leaves.

Add a squeeze of lemon. Serve immediately, balanced on chilled beach stones.

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2. ICE PLANT LEAF SNACK 480g fresh filleted firm white fish Juice of half a lemon 6 medium ice plant leaves 6 ruby grapefruit segments Salt and white pepper to taste Borage flowers Finely slice the fish fillets and dress with lemon juice. Season with white pepper and salt.

Top the fresh ice plant leaves with a grapefruit segment each. Add some fine slices of marinated fish. Top with fresh borage flowers and serve immediately, encouraging guests to eat these by hand, taco-style.

2 “ I’m extremely inspired by the landscape of the West Coast and its wild food offerings ”

Behind van der Merwe’s small house — dwarfed by the expansive landscape in which it is set — lie ancient archaeological sites of the San people. These are concentrated around Kasteelberg, a rocky pinnacle, but the cave paintings and shell middens of the area’s original foragers are found all along this coastline.

Initially, when he was trying to understand where he could find edible plants, van der Merwe asked for the help of expert botanists. But as he grew to understand the Strandveld better, the penny dropped. Everything he needed was right there in front of him: it just emerges when the time is right. Which means that like the San used to, van der Merwe forages according to the seasons — and his menu at Oep ve Koep changes accordingly.

“In winter there’s more of a creamy, umami, seaweed focus and in summer it’s more fresh and zingy. I find the transitions hard. I’m very connected to the weather personally,” van der Merwe says. “If the sun is out, my mood changes. It’s hard to make that shift like that. Yesterday the wind was blowing, it was really cold, misty and wintery, and today it’s perfect, sunny and blue. Bang.”

As much as possible, the focus of van der Merwe’s food is local. That means many of the ingredients — Strandveld plants such as soutslaai (literal translation: salt salad), dune lettuce, dune spinach, and dune celery, as well as seaweeds, such as sea lettuce and kelp, are foraged. Then there’s the fast-disappearing and slow-growing heerenboontjie, a small South African heritage bean similar to a Lima bean that few farmers grow nowadays. Van der Merwe has also begun distilling indigenous herbs, such as buchu and wild garlic, into vermouth.

All the menus at Oep ve Koep are constructed in relation to van der Merwe’s commitment to sustainability. His foraging efforts are conducted with great care for the vulnerable Strandveld vegetation. Mediterranean mussels, a widespread alien species in South Africa, are picked off the rocks in front of Paternoster to feature on the menu and the fish he uses — such as angelfish and locally caught kob — is all sustainable. At Oep ve Koep, you won’t find the crayfish so ubiquitous in other Cape restaurants, as the industry is under immense fishing pressure.

And you’ll also probably receive a subtle introduction to bokkoms, the plentiful sundried sardines of the West Coast. These are loved by locals, and in the past were treated with suspicion by outsiders; they deliver umami in force.

After lunch service, if it’s a double-shift day, van der Merwe takes another short coastal drive to Mosselbank to swim and clear his head before returning to the kitchen for the dinner service. And if he isn’t serving dinner he heads back to the farm, foraging along the way to come up with new dishes for Oep ve Koep. “I thought I’d come to Paternoster for a year to help my folks set up the eatery side of the shop,” van der Merwe says. “Now it’s six years later. Unexpectedly, I guess I found my groove.”

3 . S P R I N G B O K K L I P KO M B E R S A N D B I T T E R LEAVES FROM THE GARDEN

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600g springbok loin, finely sliced 60ml !nara oil 12 shards of crisply baked laver Bitter leaves from the garden, such as chicory, endive, celery tops 12 purple pea flowers Kombucha vinegar Dress the bitter leaves with !nara oil and kombucha vinegar. Arrange slices of springbok loin on six plates. Top with the dressed bitter leaves, seaweed shards, and pea flowers.

4. ANGELFISH SOSATIES 720g of freshly filleted angelfish, in 18 cubes 30ml fish masala Salt and pepper to taste Lemon juice Vegetable oil for frying Skewer three angelfish cubes each onto six bamboo skewers. Dust each sosatie generously with fish masala and fry in a skillet for a couple of minutes on each side until just cooked.

Dress with freshly squeezed lemon juice.

4

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final word

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HE VENERABLE URBAN PHILOSOPHER and master of the surprisingly screechy voice, Chris Rock, once said: “You’re only as faithful as your options.” Being something of a sage, it’s probable he had foreseen that soon we would be living in an age in which infinite options are no more than an app away.

Take Tinder as a case in point. Have you ever tried to scroll, or rather swipe, to the end of it? It is like paging through a neverending platform for people with an inflated sense of their own wit.

With each swipe left or right, the faces, names, and occupations of the people attached to them become less human and more distracting while your thumbs do the electric slide.

Curb your schadenfreude, married folk. This cacophony of relationship options is not limited to the young and single. We know all about your Ashley Madisons and how apparently Turn ’n Tender is one of the most popular places for illicit lovers to grab a bite. To be fair, the ribs there are magnificent — though probably not the ideal aphrodisiac.

This is not to say Tinder and Ashley Madison are the two horsemen of the dating apocalypse. If anything, Tinder is a godsend. Who has the time to wade through 37 crappy pubs listening to semi-comatose men asking you why you don’t smile, only for lucky number 38 to tell you two years into your relationship that his family would never let him marry an Indian girl. And if you’re married to the kind of person who thinks a clitoris is some kind of sea food, but is adequate in every other way, then perhaps an affair may be just what you need.

To be honest, our surplus of options doesn’t end in the realm of relationships. LinkedIn is the Tinder of jobs; Apple Music is the Ashley Madison of music; and social media is a whole Serengeti of DM-based options.

way too many options

TE X T YOL I S A M K E L E I LLUSTR AT I ON L’ M R I E R A S M U S

The problem with having all these confounded options is that there are too many of them. We are now constantly assessing our options, perpetually primed for greener pastures. Always reviewing your options means you’re never actually trying to commit: your eye is always on the back door. This brave new world of options is why older people write reams of think pieces dissecting the habits of millennials, and why us millennials go out less frequently than previous generations: we’re still trying to choose what to do. That, and the generations before us don’t pay us enough to party as hard as they did.

To hear her tell it, in my grandmother’s day you settled on one of five or six career choices. By the time my parents got to choose, the pool had expanded to about two dozen. The kids of today, on the other hand, can build careers out of making videos of themselves reacting as they unwrap gifts. Someone is being paid to follow DJ Khaled around and take pictures of him talking to Drake for Instagram. You can genuinely do anything these days.

From a career perspective, having all these options is probably a good thing. Where matters of the heart are concerned, however, I’m not so sure. In the pursuit of our dreams we’re given that old Winston Churchill speech about never giving up and never surrendering. Every self-help guru and their drunk aunt egg us on to try to touch the sun, no matter how badly our wings might get burnt.

Yet, in the pursuit of love, we’re counselled to cut our losses and get out while we’re ahead, because there are plenty more fish in the bay of Tinder. But what happens if you’re Captain Ahab?

Would you really settle for anything less than Moby Dick, and, more importantly, can you ensnare a white whale if you’re being distracted by so many clown fish?

MY TOP SIX PODCASTS Author Steven Boykey Sidley lists his favourite, must-listen podcasts. He’s been thinking about podcasts excessively lately, as the protagonist of his latest novel runs a navel-gazing podcast about his life that has become an unexpected runaway success

STEPHEN BOYKEY SIDLEY’S L AT E ST N OV E L , FREE ASSOCIATION, IS OUT NOW

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1. FICTION PODCAST — T H E N E W YO R K E R The best of short stories by the most famous authors over the last 50 years. Stories are read by a currently hot author and then disassembled in depth by the author. reader and the fiction editor of the New Yorker, Debra Tresiman.

2. RADIOLAB

3. FREAKONOMICS

4. WA KING UP

This started as a popular science podcast about 13 years ago (in the dark ages), but has morphed into a beautifully produced 30 minutes or so on science, psychology, history, ethics, and law — just about anything with gravitas and import.

It is wry, funny, and probing — intellectual exploration at its best and most fun.

This podcast offers an incredible amount of entertainment, while informing listeners of the surprising sharp edges of world economics. If you thought that this was a boring subject you will be deeply surprised.

Sam Harris is a philosopher and neuroscientist, and one of the best thinkers around on the “big” topics. The weekly topic is always in the form of a debate or interview, and his guests are always deep thinkers on subjects in technology, politics, science, and social matters. Harris is such a clear thinker on controversial subjects that his 90-minute podcast just flashes by.

5. THE SKEPTICS’ GUIDE TO THE UNIVERSE

6. THIS AMERICAN LIFE

Four very smart hosts eviscerate pseudoscience and other nonsense, while reporting on the latest news from the world of innovation.

This podcast is one of first and best known of podcasts, part of National Public Radio in the US. Stories from deep America — the best and worst and most pleasing and most troubling in that country.

Alternately poignant, funny, edifying, and surprising.

of the moment FOCUS ON

Mohau Modisakeng t ext N TOM B EN HLE S HEZI

T

HIS THREE-CHANNEL projection, which looks at [TI^MZa¼[ LM[\Z]K\Q^M MЄMK\ on African identity and its long-standing erasure of personal and marginalised histories, is on show at the South African Pavilion at the 57th Venice Bienale until November 26.

In South Africa, the work speaks directly to the introduction of slavery in the Cape Colony, and refers to the many voyages taken by those transient bodies that crossed the Indian and Atlantic Ocean on slave ships, which is why the motifs of the boat and water are central to this work.

“In Setswana the experience of life is referred to as a ‘passage’. The Setswana word for life, ‘botshelo’, means ‘to cross over’. So, all human beings are referred to as ‘bafeti’ (‘voyagers’), a word that points to the fact that the experience of life is transient; it has a beginning and an end, as with any voyage,” Modisakeng says.

The work also looks at the global trends of migration and the ongoing migrant and refugee crises, as well as seeking to commemorate the 100th anniversary of the sinking of the SSMendi in 1917.

MOHAU MODISAKENG, PASSAGE, 2017

Modisakeng’s work is a dialogue on THE EFFECT OF OUR HISTORIES on our bodies, lives, and the spaces from which we experience the world

RO B E RT D E N I RO a n d M CC AU L LO M BA R D I , L A , 8 : 3 0 a m T H E F U L L C O N V E R S AT I O N AT Z E G N A . C O M # Z E G N A C O N V E R S AT I O N S S A N D T O N C I T Y D i a m o n d W a l k B o u t i q u e U 2 2 Te l : + 2 7 1 1 3 2 6 7 7 6 7