Easy DIY Issue 45 Winter 2022

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WINTER 2022

WORKSHOP ■ UPDATE ■ MAINTAIN ■ LIVING

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PROJECTS

A SET POWER OF TOOLS P AGE 13

> EASY DRAIN FIXES > METER READING TIPS > CHOOSING THE RIGHT PAINT COLOUR

INDOOR REVAMPS

Winter Workshop PLANNING YOUR BABY’S NURSERY BUILD A TREFOIL CUBE CREATE A PAVED GARDEN PATH

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9 772221 941042 9 772221 941042 ISSUE 45 • 2022

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Feature lights, foyer benches and kitchen makeovers

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DIY 101 UPCYCLE YOUR FRIDGE SHELF AND AQUARIUM PUMP l JAPANESE TABLE l BIRD FEEDERS 2022/05/26 7:29 AM


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CONTENTS

16 REGULARS 4

EDITORIAL COMMENT Creating that warm fuzzy feeling throughout your home this winter season.

BITS ‘N’ BOB 7

News and subscriptions.

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Product roundup.

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Quick fixes for mixing plaster the right way; colour tips for painting your home; and tips to unclog drains.

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Makita competition.

FEATURES IMAGES: SUPPLIED, ISTOCKPHOTO.COM

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KITCHEN REVAMP If the budget doesn’t stretch to your drool-worthy dream kitchen, try these cost-effective DIY projects to give the hub of your home a fresh, new look. FEATURE LIGHTING Just like the colour choices of your soft furnishings and wall decor work to create an overall picture of your room, lighting plays an important role in creating a particular look within a space.

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DIY 101

GUIDE TO

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TABLE BUILD The versatile Japanese table.

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THE BENCH Create ambience the minute you walk through the door with this fashionable and functional foyer bench.

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UPCYCLED PROJECTS Transforming an aquarium pump and an old fridge shel.f

BIRD FEEDERS What shape bird feeders work best and which materials are safe for the birds.

LIVING 52

FIRE EXTINGUISHERS Learn which fire extinguisher to use on which class of fire.

WORKSHOP 37

BABY NURSERY Tips and advice for planning a nursery and kitting it out.

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BUILD A TREFOIL CUBE In this project we look at mastering some basic skills for anyone with an interest in working with wood and other materials.

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DOWN THE GARDEN PATH A simple project to lay a path using paving slabs.

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EDITORIAL COMMENT

TAKE IT INSIDE

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can’t think of anything better than staying indoors this winter yet remaining active and productive undertaking great DIY projects. In this issue, we share tips and considerations for a kitchen revamp on a tight budget and how to use feature lighting to create a great ambience. And, why not build your own Japanese-inspired table for those cosy nights indoors with the family,

enjoying a meal or playing a game in front of the fire? We also start a new regular column with Geoff Hollingdale, who will take you

Published by:

Picasso Headline, a proud division of Arena Holdings (Pty) Ltd Hill on Empire, 16 Empire Road (cnr Hillside Road), Parktown, Johannesburg, 2193 Postal Address: PO Box 12500, Mill Street, Cape Town, 8010 easydiy.co.za businessmediamags.co.za

through a series of workshops over the next few issues to hone your skills in

EDITORIAL

working with wood (and other materials). In workshop one, he helps you master

Content Manager Raina Julies

your skills by building a trefoil cube. Rod Baker helps us recycle and repurpose household items in his upcycle projects. Take a look on pages 31–36 to see how he upcycles a microwave fan, an aquarium pump and a fridge shelf. Then we tackle some fire safety tips with Gina Hartog, who shares great advice around choosing the right fire extinguisher. As all

rainaj@picasso.co.za Contributors Rod Baker, Brenda Bryden, Lotte Dekker, Gina Hartoog, Geoff Hollingdale, Karolín Hůlová, Gieke van Lon Copy Editor Brenda Bryden

DIY’ers know, having an extinguisher at hand is always the smart choice.

Content Co-ordinator Vanessa Payne

Happy DIYing guys …

ART

Raina Julies

Head of Design Studio Jayne Macé-Ferguson Senior Designer Mfundo Archie Ndzo

CONGRATULATIONS TO

OUR WINNERS FROM ISSUE 44 – AUTUMN 2022 REINDER ENGELS is the winner of a Makita MT Power Tool set (comprising a M9204B Random Orbit Sander, M3700B Trimmer and M1902B Planer)

CLEMENCE THOMAS is the winner of a Pattex click & fix glue device.

Advert Designer Bulelwa Sotashe Cover Image istockphoto.com, supplied

SALES Project Manager Gavin Payne gavinp@picasso.co.za +27 21 469 2477 I +27 74 031 9774 Sales Consultants Jacqueline Bezuidenhout, Natalie Sanders

PRODUCTION Production Editor Shamiela Brenner Advertising Co-ordinator Fatima Dramat Subscriptions and Distribution Fatima Dramat fatimad@picasso.co.za Distribution On the Dot Printing CTP Printers, Cape Town

MANAGEMENT Management Accountant Deidre Musha Business Manager Lodewyk van der Walt

Copyright: Picasso Headline. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without written permission from the publisher. The publisher is not responsible for unsolicited material. EasyDIY is published by Picasso Headline. The opinions expressed are not necessarily those of Picasso Headline. All advertisements/advertorials and promotions have been paid for and therefore do not carry any endorsement by the publisher.

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IMAGES: SUPPLIED

General Manager, Magazines Jocelyne Bayer

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NEWS

SA 20 VE %

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Introducing

TimBuild When one door closes, another is right there, ready to open. By Stuart Oliver, director, TimBuild Stellenbosch, Somerset West, Woodstock, and Paint and Plant

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hen Timbercity franchise owner, The Building Company, decided to close the franchise division, some of the franchise owners got together to decide on the direction they wanted to take. As a result, TimBuild brand was born in November last year.

THE FOCUS? TimBuild does not focus on one segment of the construction and building industry as many of the older stores had already migrated into a huge one-stop building supply store. TIM represents the timber portion of our business and BUILD the building materials side. We also felt the name could be used for more focused stores as well, such as TimBuild Express Paint, TimBuild Cut and Edge, and so forth.

BUILDING THE NEW BRAND Probably one of the most exciting aspects of building a new brand is finding its identity. We enlisted the help of local graphic design company Orange Wall Designs and launched an online national competition for designers to create a proposed logo. We received almost 2 000 entries before settling on the current logo, which represents the key pillars of the new brand: • The bricks represent a strong foundation in life and business. • The hammer represents all the tools we have in stock for you. • The saw blade represents that we still love to cut your timber and boards. • The house represents that we have all your construction and building material needs covered.

WHERE WE ARE Currently, four stores have already migrated to the TimBuild brand (three in the Western Cape and one in Gauteng), with another eight to follow in the coming months, and by July, we should be up to twelve stores nationally.

OUR PRODUCT RANGE We stock timber, boards, plywoods, building materials, paints, joinery, and smart DIY pre-assembled cupboards. We listen to our customers’ needs and are willing to sell anything they need. Our services include cutting, edging, delivery, computer-aided kitchen design and cutting lists. We look forward to growing TimBuild into a proudly South African brand with a distinctive family ethos and vibe. P

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PRODUCT ROUNDUP

Must-have new

PRODUCTS AND TOOLS

SAFETY FIRST

SawStop, available in four options – Contractor, Industrial Cabinet, Professional Cabinet and Sliding Cross unit, is a must for the professional, hobbyists, contractors, cabinet makers, and DIY’ers. Table saws cause tens of thousands of serious injuries every year. There is a table-saw accident in the United States every nine minutes and ten amputations every day. SawStop promises to minimise these injuries by stopping the blade within five milliseconds of contact. That is ten times faster than a car’s airbag. Ten times faster than your reflexes can respond to danger. The blade carries a small electrical signal that is continually monitored by the safety system. When skin makes contact with the blade, the

The blade’s angular momentum drives it beneath the table, removing the risk of subsequent contact, and power to the motor is automatically shut off. Resetting the saw is easy. Simply replace the blade and affordable brake cartridge, and your saw is operational again. The entire reset process takes less than five minutes. Watch the demo here:

signal changes because the human body is conductive. The change to the signal activates the safety system. An aluminium brake springs into the spinning blade, stopping it in less than five milliseconds!

Also view the official site for the model option www.sawstop.com

WOODWORKING TOOLS Kreg introduces six new innovative woodworking tools: the Cabinet Door Mounting Jig; a 90° Pocket-Hole Driver; the very handy Quick-Flip tool; a unique Shelf Pin Jig; Drilling Guides; and its very own custom-made Shelf Pins.

CABINET DOOR MOUNTING JIG The Cabinet Door Mounting Jig is used for installing cabinet doors – whether you are working with face frames or frameless cabinets. The Cabinet Door Mounting Jig allows you to position your cabinet doors precisely. It also comes with two micro-adjustment shims for even more fine-tuning. Use one shim to move the door up by 0.15mm 1/16” or 8

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0.31mm 1/8” – or combine both shims for 0.47mm 3/16” of adjustability.

90° POCKET-HOLE DRIVER This compact drill attachment allows you to drive screws in places you could not normally reach with your drill. The included 3” square-drive bit has a magnetic tip that locks into the head of a pocket-hole screw and will not slip out – so you can drive screws with confidence, no matter where they are. This attachment works with all hex shank bits.

QUICK-FLIP The Quick-Flip makes it possible to use Kreg Screws for a variety of strong, simple joints – all with one single tool. Drill a pilot hole and counterbore with one side, then drive a Kreg Screw with the #2 square-drive bit on the other side. With this dual-action tool, you can quickly make joints using Kreg Screws in many different applications. Use the Quick-Flip with Kreg Screws to quickly face-join corners, attach false fronts to drawers, and much more. The Quick-Flip features a double-ended insert in a quick-release housing. On one end, a drill bit is sized to drill a perfect pilot hole for a Kreg Screw, plus a cutter that

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drills a flat-bottomed counterbore into which the screw head fits. Then flip the insert around to expose the other end: a #2 square-drive bit specially designed for use with Kreg Screws.

you need a hole for driving a screw, mounting hardware, helping create a dowel joint, and much more.

SHELF PINS Use these custom-made 5mm shelf pins to add adjustable shelves to your project. Compatible with the Kreg Shelf Pin Jig with 5mm Drill Bit. Each kit includes 20 shelf pins. P

DRILLING GUIDE

IMAGES: SUPPLIED

The Drilling Guide makes it easy to create perfectly straight holes without using a drill press. Featuring six hardened steel drill guides – from 0.31mm 1/8” to 1.2mm 1/2” – that do the work of holding your drill in position for you. The guide features an ergonomic design and Kreg GripMaxx™ material that ensure it stays in place as you use it. Use the guide for all kinds of tasks – whether

backspacing for a 32mm cabinet system – which also helps with locating the front hole for drawer slide installation.

SHELF PIN JIG Add perfectly spaced shelf pin holes to your projects with the Shelf Pin Jig. Hardened-steel drill guides ensure precision for level, wobble-free shelves. It comes complete with a 5mm high-quality brad-point bit. Drill guides are centred on standard (32mm) spacing and feature a lifetime warranty. The jig also has useful features for installing concealed cabinet hinges and drawer slides in frameless cabinets. Moulded-in alignment marks and an indicator window help align mounting screws for hinge plates – set at standard

To view all the Kreg products and to watch demos, click here:

EasyDIY

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KNOW-HOW

Mixing plaster THE RIGHT WAY Mixing plaster incorrectly could result in having to redo the plaster and paint work, additional costs, and possible structural damage. Don’t risk it. By Philipp Stahl, master painter and application engineer at Festool Germany

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ainters encounter a multitude of different materials in their everyday working life: various types of plaster, filler, paint, wallpaper paste, clear coat, reinforcement adhesive, varnish, and two-component coating systems. As a rule, these materials each require a different choice of stirring rods. In everyday work, painters often use the same stirring rod for different materials. The result is that the materials are often mixed incorrectly. What is particularly aggravating is that the material manufacturer’s warranty could also be rendered void due to incorrect application. For the painter, this usually ends in substantial follow-up costs and potential compensation demands from the customer. This risk can be easily avoided by simply using the correct stirrer, stirring rod and settings in accordance with material manufacturer specifications.

OF PARAMOUNT IMPORTANCE: SURFACE PREPARATION

TOP TIP • Before acquiring a professional mixing system, think about the requirements of your work and which materials you generally need to mix. • Match a suitable stirring rod to each application/material. • Observe manufacturer specifications. • Adapt the speed as required and keep to the specified mixing times.

IMAGES: SUPPLIED

In demanding work processes – such as laying floor coatings using epoxy resin or PUR – the material is made up of two components. During mixing, it is especially important to ensure that the quantities and proportion of components A and B are carefully and accurately balanced, that the timings specified by the manufacturer are adhered to and that the components are mixed properly. If this is not the case, damaged areas may form on the coating and adhesion issues with the underlying surface may crop up. During mixing, it is recommended to read the component

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IT’S ALL DOWN TO THE PERFECT STIRRER

manufacturer specifications on the designated data sheets and to adhere precisely to the specified quantity proportions and mixing speed. If the components are mixed at too high a speed, the mixture heats up faster. This means the material sets too quickly, impairing adhesion with the underlying surface and reducing the processing time. When using liquid resins, we recommend a so-called disc stirrer, which ensures that the two components are mixed in the ideal way.

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SELF-LEVELLING FILLER FOR THE FLOOR Painters are increasingly using self-levelling filler when it comes to flooring to create an even underlying surface for the decorative floor coverings, laminate or prefabricated parquet that will be added later. Mixing self-levelling filler incorrectly could make it form lumps. This results in a residue of dry material – usually at the bottom of the bucket. Using a classic stirring rod that is spiralled to the right could also introduce an excessive amount of air into the material. This would result in the material not mixing

into a homogeneous mass, even after long periods of stirring. This then leads to damaged areas with some material remaining in powder form or air bubbles on the surface – these appear when too much air has been introduced to the mixture. For this reason, it is recommended to use a suitable stirring rod and to ensure that the speed and stirring duration remain in accordance with manufacturer specifications. For this job, we recommend using the whisk as its special design lets hardly any air into the material and reliably forms a homogeneous mixture.

For most mixing materials, both in liquid and solid form, Festool recommends a stirrer with at least 1 200W and two-gear transmission with variable speed settings for mixing lightweight and medium materials. In addition, thanks to the patented ErgoFix height adjustment feature, our stirrers can be individually adapted to the height of the operator. This makes a natural, upright, and effortless working position possible. At the same time, the ErgoFix adapter, with its classic M14 tool reception, makes it possible to quickly change stirring rods (FastFix function) without the need for tools. Heavy, compact materials should be stirred in first gear since the high torque means that the maximum stirring force is readily available. Meanwhile, liquid materials should be stirred in second gear at the appropriate speed (see manufacturer specifications). If the wattage of the available stirrer is too low, it requires a lot more effort to mix the material perfectly since the missing power often must be compensated for with physical input. Correct mixing enables painters to achieve the desired working result and avoid unnecessary hassle and the consequent expensive rework. P

FIRM FILLER AND PLASTER FOR WALLS To to mix viscous reinforcement materials and plaster, we recommend using a stirring rod that is spiralled to the right and mixes the material from the bottom to the top. This ensures that all the material is mixed evenly. To agitate clear coats, dispersion adhesives, wallpaper paste or thin materials, the application engineer recommends using a stirring rod that is spiralled to the left and mixes the material from top to bottom. EasyDIY

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KNOW-HOW

Painting your home? LET’S TALK COLOUR

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• Warm colours include red, orange, yellow, and variations of those three colours. • Red and yellow are both primary colours, with orange falling in the middle. • Warm colours appear closer to the observer.

NEUTRAL COLOURS

• Cool colours include green, blue, purple, and variations of those three colours. • Blue is the only primary colour within the cool spectrum. • Greens take on some of the attributes of yellow, and purple takes on some of the attributes of red.

Source: Usability.gov

ometimes garden drains become blocked. So is it your responsibility, or the municipality’s? The illustration below shows what’s what … if all your drains and gullies (those outlet installations against your house’s walls into which your sink, bath, basins and show flow) are clear, but the drain next to your property boundary is blocked, you’re generally off the hook as it indicates the blockage in the pipe is between your drain and the main sewer (see the red portion) – or even the main sewer itself. If the latter drain is empty, but your gullies are overflowing, it’s your problem because the blockage is on your property (see the red portion). You might be able to clear it using a sink waste cleaner, or some high-pressure blasting with a hose, but it is more likely that you will need to have a plumber come in and sort it out.

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WARM COLOUR SCALE

COOL COLOUR SCALE

GARDEN DRAINS

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• They are often more subdued than warm colours. • Cool colours appear farther away from the observer.

Neutral colours include black, white, grey, tans, and browns. They’re commonly combined with brighter accent colours, but can also be used individually.

HOW TO READ YOUR WATER METER

Water meters vary in design, but all do the same job, so here’s how to read it. • When you open your meter, the quickest way to see if water is being used is that little 6-spoked disk. If it is rotating, then water is flowing. Then we look at those little red pointers … • From left to right, x0.0001 measures 1 litre in 10th of litres; each marking indicates 100ml, so one full revolution indicates 1 litre. • x0.001 measures 10 litres, each marking indicates 1 litre, so one full revolution indicates 10 litres. • x0.01 measures 100 litres, each marking indicates 10 litres, so one full revolution indicates 100 litres. • x0.1 measures kilolitres (1 000 litres), each marking indicating 100 litres, so one full revolution indicates 1 000 litres (1 kilolitre). • The digital meter at the top measures the usage in kilolitres – 1 000 litres – or m3 of water, since 1m3 = 1 000 litres. The readings on the dials are added to this reading for a total, in this case, 393 + 771.7 litres. When the dial readings reach 999.9, the digital meter now reading 393 kilolitres will switch over to 394 kilolitres.

IMAGES: SUPPLIED

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aint manufacturers produce colour swatches to help customers select the right colour/s for a room. The colours on the red (warm) side of the colour wheel show the relationships between the primary, secondary, and intermediate/tertiary colours; the green (cool) side of the wheel has the cooler colours. These colour temperature designations are absolute, meaning that reds and other similar colours are warm, and blues are cool.

According to Usability.gov, more subtle colour temperature relationships are relative, meaning that each colour on the warm side of the wheel can be known as cool, and colours on the cool side of the wheel can be known as warm depending on the relationship to their neighbouring colour. Colours from the same hue, for instance, red, can also be warmer or cooler than one another. Colour temperatures affect us both psychologically and perceptually by helping us determine how objects appear to be positioned.

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WIN with Makita

Makita MT Power Tools set (comprising M9204B Random Orbit Sander, M3700B Trimmer and M1902B Planer) per issue to one winner. Makita’s MT range of standard duty industrial power tools provides the quality you expect from Makita at an affordable price.

Makita MT M9204B Random Orbit Sander

The Makita MT M9204B Random Orbit Sander is one of the most useful tools that a contractor, small business entrepreneur or DIY expert can have in their tool arsenal. The sander is ideal for stripping paint off furniture, preparing new moulding or cleaning up between finish coats. Even metal and composite materials such as solid surface countertops can be smoothed and cleaned. Any rough spots and swirls left by other sanders can effectively be removed with a sanding pad that spins at 12 000 orbits per min. The Makita MT M9204B is fitted with a dust bag and includes some abrasive paper.

Makita MT M3700B Trimmer

Makita’s MT M3700B Trimmer is of real benefit to readers who do plenty of woodworking projects requiring an easy and effective way to accomplish small routing tasks, as this versatile tool can be operated using only one hand. The transparent plastic base increases visibility of the area you are working on. Plus, it’s lightweight as well as highly manoeuvrable, which makes it all the more appealing. The MT M3700B has a 530W motor with a standard collect of 6.35mm, using standard router bits (purchased separately), providing you with variety of applications. It has a plunge capacity of 0–42mm, a no-load speed of 35 000 r/min and is supplied with a 2m power cord.

Makita MT M1902B Planer

Makita’s MT M1902B Planer provides reliable performance with a maximum planing depth of 1mm and 9mm rebate. Featuring Makita’s characteristic double installation against electric shock, the M19012B has a standard 82mm cutting blade. This planer has a continuous rating input of 500W and a no-load speed of 16 000 r/min. It is 285mm in length and weighs only 2.7kg. The planer comes standard with a 2m power supply cord. The Makita MT M1902B is the perfect tool for removing unwanted timber from soft and hard wood.

To enter and be included in our Business Media Mags newsletter database, SMS EASYDIY 45 MAKITA 1 followed by your full name, email and physical address to 33089. SMSes cost R1.50 each. To enter without inclusion in the newsletter, SMS EASYDIY 45 MAKITA 2. SMS errors are billed; free SMSes do not apply. For full terms and conditions, visit easyDIY.co.za. Competition ends 12 August 2022. EasyDIY

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Feature

KITCHEN REVAMP

A NEW-LOOK KITCHEN on a budget

Give the hub of your home a fresh look with these (very) cost-effective and easy to do makeovers. By Brenda Bryden

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pdating your kitchen is a great way to raise the value of your property, and, as the centre of the home, you want it to look as lovely and modern as possible. If the family budget doesn’t stretch to your drool-worthy dream kitchen, try these DIY projects to give your kitchen a fresh, new look. Tackle one project at a time according to budget, and before you know it, you’ll have a stunning new kitchen and (hopefully) still some money in the bank.

CLEAR THE CLUTTER AND ASSESS Give up on those grandiose ideas of redesigning the layout, don’t even think about moving things around. Stick to your

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current kitchen layout to save on electrical and plumbing costs. Anyway, kitchens are usually fairly well designed to maximise space and suit the plumbing system. Start by clearing your kitchen cabinets and countertops. Give all your appliances a good clean (inside and out) and examine them with a fresh eye – decide which ones stay and which need to be replaced. If they still working well, then re-use them and spend the money on something else. Store the items that cause visual clutter, and if you haven’t used an appliance for several months, consider selling or donating it. Remember, you’re aiming for a clutter-free kitchen with cool, clean lines.

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TOP if you want to be creative and add a quirky feature, TIP paint the back of your kitchen door or a feature wall with chalkboard paint to make a noticeboard or use as a family planner.

COLOUR YOUR KITCHEN BEAUTIFUL One of the easiest and most effective ways to refresh your kitchen is to give it several coats of fresh paint – this instantly lifts a tired space. Start with the walls, ceiling, window frames and doors. Consider a neutral colour, like cream or white, which provides a perfect blank canvas for adding colour or other accents later. Use the best quality, waterproof paint you can afford to ensure ease of cleaning and durability.

CUPBOARD LOVE If your cupboards and drawers are old and tatty, but in good shape structurally, and a coat or two of paint alone won’t give them that “new” look, consider replacing the doors and drawer fronts with new ones. This will cost far less than replacing all the cabinetry. The average kitchen has cabinets of a standard size so replacements can be fitted easily. Take off the fronts of the cupboards, and ask your local hardware store or a cabinet-maker to cut replacements, which you

You can even paint all your cupboard doors. Whether the cupboards are all wood or laminated board, there’ll be a suitable product, ask the paint department at your local hardware store. Experts maintain that chalk and milk paints will give your cupboard doors an upscale professional look.

can easily assemble yourself. You’ll need to buy new hinges for the doors and runners for the drawers, but it is a simple process to fit these yourself. Get out of your comfort zone and be bold. Consider painting your bottom cabinets a different shade or even a different (but complementary) colour from the top ones! For eye-level cupboards, you can even consider leaving the doors off and turning them into open shelving, just clean up and paint the shelves or line with paper. Give your newly painted cupboards some extra love and replace all the handles with something modern, you’ll be amazed at the difference it makes.

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Feature

KITCHEN REVAMP

SPARKLING SPLASHBACKS Splashbacks, apart from being functional and protecting your walls, can also serve another purpose – as an impactful feature. Choosing a striking splashback will add aesthetic value to your kitchen, possibly even becoming the hero of the space, and you don’t need to spend a fortune to achieve the effect. If your splashback consists of boring old square white tiles, some of which may be chipped or cracked (like mine), replace them with beautiful patterned, bold coloured tiles, even one patterned tile amid a sea of white will make a difference. Or you could mix it up and add tiles of different tones and hues to give it character. Replacing a cracked tile is a simple enough task for even a novice DIY’er. While you’re at it, clean the grouting of your existing tiles, or if you feel creative, paint the grouting in a contrasting colour. A stainless steel splashback makes an impressive statement, withstands heat well and is easy to clean. No need to replace existing tiles, simply drill into the existing tiles and fit a new stainless steel splashback. Then, for those of us who like to take the quick route with the least amount of slog, you can paint over your current tiles. First, clean them well using sugar soap or a dishwashing liquid and warm water solution, then paint using either latex or epoxy paint. And as a nice finishing touch, put up a floating shelf above the top of the tiles. If you’ve gone for the stainless steel splashback, you can even consider putting up a steel rail to hang your kitchen utensils, this will give your kitchen a really modern-industrial look.

LIGHT UP YOUR LIFE Well-positioned, attractive lighting can go a long way to brighten up your kitchen and even make it look roomier. Want to give your kitchen a more modern look? Lose the fluorescent tube lighting and replace it with either three-ceiling spotlights that can be angled to shed light exactly where you want it, or my personal favourite, a couple of pendant lights. These are great for creating ambience and provide concentrated light over task areas, plus you can choose from a huge range varying from vintage and rustic to modern – there’s a pendant light for every type of kitchen! Have you considered a mirror in the kitchen? Find one that matches your kitchen style and the appliances, splashback and tiling, to create a focal point in the room. Consider angling one of your spotlights to reflect off the mirror, or hang it where it picks up the glow from a pendant light, you’ll be amazed at the effect; and it makes the room look bigger and brighter. If you have some spare money, you can even consider fitting some undercabinet lighting over certain countertops. Undercabinet lighting is low-voltage and provides a spread of soft light – perfect for when you want a quiet midnight snack or warm beverage and don’t want the entire household to know you’re up and in the kitchen. While you’re thinking about lighting, another quick but instant update is to replace all your light switches, plug switchplates and even the plugs themselves. A small inexpensive measure that makes a huge difference to your kitchen’s overall appearance. P

• Select accessories that suit your kitchen’s design style and place them strategically. • Display plants to add that little bit of zoosh and breathe life and energy into your space. • Replace old kitchen tapware with a gooseneck tap and mixer, it is both practical and elegant. • Display your cookbooks with pride, after all, it’s a kitchen where the cooking happens! Coming up in a future issue of Easy DIY: Revamping your kitchen floors, windows and countertops – also on a budget.

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Feature

ACCENT LIGHTING

LIGHT show Use accent lighting to highlight your favourite artwork, plants or objects inside your home or outdoors. By Gina Hartoog

J

ust like the colour choices of your soft furnishings and wall decor work to create an overall picture of your room, lighting plays an important role in creating a particular look within the space. There are three types of lighting – ambient, task and accent lighting. Ambient lighting refers to the general lighting in the room. It’s aimed at safety and to assist with the ease of movement. Chandeliers and wall-mounted sconces are examples of light fittings, or luminaires, that provide ambient lighting. Task lighting is a more concentrated form of lighting aimed at providing light where you need it – a reading corner or over the dining room table. Hanging pendants or desk lamps are good examples.

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ACCENT LIGHTING The third type of lighting, accent lighting, is focused lighting. It can be used indoors or outdoors to emphasise or highlight a particular feature and bring attention to the space or item. You can choose to accent a wall, an architectural focal point (like a

staircase or fireplace), artwork or furniture. Track lights, spots, wall-mounted picture lights and recessed lights can all be used as accent lighting within a room, depending on the item you want to illuminate. Outdoor lighting can play two roles – it can be functional or aesthetic. Functional lighting provides protection and safety, allowing you to walk through the garden at night, or as security lighting. Aesthetic or accent lighting used in the garden brings it to life at night, drawing in the eye and creating a particular mood. You can use accent lighting to draw attention to objects or plants within the space.

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LIGHTING A GARDEN FOCAL POINT

LIGHTING A PAINTING A carefully selected painting can be a powerful focal point in a room. Picture lighting is a type of accent lighting that allows the artwork to be lit more brightly than the surroundings and be properly viewed, even at night. “Picture lights are designed specially to offer the best illumination for framed photos or artworks,” says Melissa Davidson from lighting retailer The Lighting Warehouse. “They are wall-mounted fittings that project light onto a piece of artwork. They are affordable, easy to install, and add a sense of drama to any artwork.”

POINTS TO CONSIDER When choosing a picture light for your artwork, consider the following: • Select the correct size. Larger pictures need more light. “For portrait pictures, the rule of thumb is to choose a picture light that is about half the width of the picture,” explains Davidson. “For landscape pictures, you will need to select a picture light that measures between one-third, or half of the width of the picture.” • Choose your light source carefully. LEDs are a good choice as they don’t give off any heat and are long-lasting and affordable to run. Some picture lights even come with integrated LED

International landscape designer Leon Kluge, winner of the Best Outdoor Lighting award at the Singapore Garden Festival 2016, says that lighting, when applied well, can give your garden a different personality at night to its daytime look. “There are many elements in a garden that can be lit, and each one would give off a different feeling,” says Kluge. “When you light up a hard element, such as steps or a wall, it creates shape in the landscape, a background to the painting. But when you light up a tree, it gives a mystical appearance, the seemingly never-ending twisting branches disappearing from the light into the dark. Lighting walkways not only makes the journey safer, but will give you a sense of elevation, almost as if you are walking above the darker garden space around you. These lights will also show the texture of the space as the lights will pick up some of your plants next to the pathway.” When deciding on outdoor accent lighting, opt for a “less is more” approach. Overlighting the garden can look garish and busy and even make it feel small.

lights for maximum convenience. Fluorescent globes (like the T5) are also a practical choice for picture lights, says Davidson. • Position of the light. “When positioning a light over the artwork, the goal is to achieve an even spread of light over the entire picture, avoiding any ‘hot spots’ on the top half,” cautions Davidson. “This is achievable by installing the picture light about 13–18cm above the top of your artwork. Most picture lights can be adjusted so that you can achieve the perfect angle for the light. The ideal angle of the light is 30 degrees so that there is no glare or reflection.”

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ACCENT LIGHTING

GET THE LOOK Light fittings should be camouflaged and appear almost as part of the garden. Fittings shouldn’t attract or blind the eye. Rather, the lit textures and shapes should draw your attention, says Kluge. The type of fixtures you choose and where you place light fittings are important for creating a specific look. • To highlight a plant or feature: use uplighting. Place a spotlight at the base of the plant or object and direct the beam upwards to bathe the feature in light. • To create a silhouette: place the fitting at a low level behind the object or plant you want to silhouette. • To cast a shadow on a plain wall: light a statue or large container from the front. The item’s larger-than-life shadow will fall on the wall behind. • To enhance texture, like stone, brick or bark: place the light source at the side or base of the object or hang from above, pointing downwards, with the beam directed along the object’s surface.

LAMP COLOURS Once you have chosen the focal point you want to highlight, choose the colour of the lamps (bulbs or tubes). “Lights with a yellow undertone will warm up the space, and lighting with a slightly blue or white undertone will cool the space down,” says Kluge. “I prefer to use warmer lighting on living parts of the garden such as trees, and cooler lighting on nonliving elements such as water. Using both colours effectively can achieve a sense of depth in the garden, making the garden appear larger than it is.” P

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HOW TO INSTALL A PICTURE LIGHT You can replace any existing wall fixture with a picture light – provided the location of the current junction box is at a convenient place for you to hang your painting. If you want to install the light at a different position, you will need to hire an electrician to move your existing junction box or install a new one. Keep in mind that the light should be about 13–18cm above your artwork, so if you’re using an existing light point, install the picture light first, then hang your painting to get the correct spacing. You’ll only need connectors or a connector block (the fitting may be supplied with one), screws and a screwdriver for the job. STEP 1: Turn off the power at the DB board. Put up a note warning others not to turn the power back on. STEP 2: Remove the old fitting. Depending on the style, you may need to remove a glass shade and unscrew fitting. Take extra care with a heavy unit. The wires will still be connected to the old fitting and an extra pair of hands may be needed. STEP 3: Disconnect the old fitting’s wires from the mains wires. There

are three wires – green/yellow is earth, red is live, and brown/black is neutral. STEP 4: Remove the old mounting plate – the metal plate in front of the junction box. STEP 5: Remove the picture light from the packaging and assemble any parts, if needed. STEP 6: Screw the new mounting plate onto the junction box. STEP 7: Attach the mains earth wire to the earthing screw on the mounting plate. Tighten using the screwdriver. STEP 8: Now, join the mains live and neutral to the fixture’s live and neutral connection points. Check the instruction manual if you aren’t sure on the correct wires. Use connectors or a connector block to join the wires. STEP 9: Once the wiring is complete, push the wires back inside the junction box. Keep the live and neutral apart. STEP 10: Follow the instructions for your fitting to complete the installation – you’ll need to attach the fitting to the mounting bracket with screws. Insert the lamp (tube) as per the instructions. STEP 11: Put the power back on and test your new picture light.

BRIGHT IDEA To light a bookshelf, use LED strip lighting, available at DIY or lighting stores. These lights are easy to install under shelves – just peel off the adhesive backing and plug into a wall socket. Choose your desired colour – white, a specific colour or colour-changing. Some units even come with a remote control.

IMAGES: ISTOCKPHOTO.COM, THE LIGHTING WAREHOUSE

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DIY 101

TABLE BUILD

PROJECT

THE JAPANESE table The Japanese table is so versatile. You can use it as an occasional table to showcase your collectables or as a workbench or laptop stand for a Zoom meeting. We’re obsessed with the red stitching detail! By Karolín Hůlová

YOU WILL NEED: • Wood • Sandpaper (coarse 40-grit, fine 180-grit) • Connecting pins (cut from the wood) • Round garment strip for decoration • Metre ruler • Pencil

IMAGES: ZUZANA VESELÁ/SUNRAY PHOTO/MAGAZINEFEATURES.CO.ZA

• White decorative wax for surface treatment (optional)

TOOLS: • Saw • Belt sander and/or cordless screwdriver • Sanding disc • Drill

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HERE’S HOW:

1

IMAGES: ZUZANA VESELÁ/SUNRAY PHOTO/MAGAZINEFEATURES.CO.ZA

Cutting and sanding: cut two pieces of wood to a length of 80cm and two pieces to 40cm, or however long and high you wish it to be. Sand the surface of the wood twice – first with coarse sandpaper (40-grit), then with a finer one (180-grit). If you want to avoid this phase, buy already processed wood.

2 Drilling and connecting: drill holes to a depth of 1.5cm, 25cm from the edge of the two longer pieces. Drill holes of the same depth at the edges of the shorter pieces. Select the drill bit according to the diameter of the turret handle and cut four connecting pins of 3cm from it.

3 Adjusting the sew: The gentle playfulness is provided by the backstitch sewing table, which pulls the two pieces forming the tabletop together. For each of the two stitches, I drilled six holes at equal intervals through the two larger pieces and passed a round textile strip through them.

4 Construction: The table is held together thanks to the pins created from the wood. Insert them into the holes in the bottom of the board and place the shorter boards as a base. Feel free to use a hammer, but insert a thick piece fabric between it and the wood. You can wax the parts before assembly. P

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DIY 101

BUILD A BENCH

PROJECT

FOYER fashion CONCEPT, DESIGN, PRODUCTION AND STYLING: GIEKE VAN LON AND LOTTE DEKKER WWW.HUMADE.NL IMAGES: BART BRUSSEE/FEATURES & MORE/MAGAZINEFEATURES.CO.ZA

Create ambience the minute you walk through the door with this fashionable and functional foyer bench. By Gieke von Lon and

Lotte Dekker

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HERE’S HOW:

YOU WILL NEED: • Pinewood bench, 138x38x45cm • 3 cut-to-size 18mm underlayment boxes 38(w)x35(d)x33.5(h)cm • 2 MDF sheets 1 220x610x12mm, cut to size 43x36cm (2x) and 35x36 cm (2x) • 3 brass flush-fitting ring pulls • 12 brass screws with round head • Wood screws max 2.4cm long • Pattex Wood Express wood glue • 12 felt sliders with screw • Pencil • Water-based primer • Primer roller and brush • Lacquer roller • Paint tray • Flat brush

CONCEPT, DESIGN, PRODUCTION AND STYLING: GIEKE VAN LON AND LOTTE DEKKER WWW.HUMADE.NL IMAGES: BART BRUSSEE/FEATURES & MORE/MAGAZINEFEATURES.CO.ZA

• Lacquer (water-based satin gloss).

Put the frame together: 1. Assemble the pinewood bench by following the instructions. 2. Prime all the MDF panels and paint afterwards in the desired colour with the water-based satin lacquer.

TOOLS:

3. Glue and screw the painted MDF panels around the legs of the bench with wood glue and wood screws.

• Battery drill

Mounting the flush fitting ring pull:

• Tape measure • Bit-holder and torx bit

1. To mount the flush-fitting ring pull first create space underneath for it to sink into the wood. Milling is quite easy!

• 1 milling drill bit 40 mmø

2. Mill a round 40mmØ space on the desired area on the wooden box (the mill will fit on an electric drill).

• Claw hammer

3. Using a chisel and hammer, bite a rectangular shape of (± 25(b)x15(h)mm) above the 40mmØ hole This is the space needed for the hinge to turn around.

• Firmer chisel 6mm • 4mm wood drill

4. The easiest way to do this is by cutting round the rectangular shape with a Stanley knife to create a sharp cut. From there you can remove the wood layer by layer.

• Glue clamp

5. Mount the flush fitting ring pulls with the small screws.

• 30 cm square

6. Finally, assemble the felt sliders at the bottom of the wooden boxes for a smooth slide. P

• Stanley knife

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UPCYCLED AQUARIUM PUMP MAGNET

TIME

An hour at the most – depending on how stubborn the impeller is when you detach it from the magnet.

R50

SKILL

HERE’S HOW:

HIIII

I used an old aquarium pump magnet from the impeller. The beauty of this is that the magnet already has a hole through its centre for the shaft on which it spun, and as it is for use in an aquarium, it is totally rust-resistant. Your first task is to separate the plastic impeller from the magnet. Do this extremely carefully – these magnets are very brittle and will fracture if abused.

ASSISTANT No

YOU WILL NEED: • About 300mm of nylon cord – optional – as a hand loop; cut the cord to a length that slips easily over your hand and wrist • 1 x 19mmØ dowel, 600mm long (or length of your choice – the shortest length sold is 1m) • 1 x 19mmØ ferrule • 1 screw and flat washer – ensure that the screw you use fits easily through the hole in the magnet; if it is too tight and you force it, you could split the magnet.

TOOLS: • Mains or cordless drill/driver • Candle • Cigarette lighter or braai lighter to seal the ends of the cord (optional).

IMAGES: SUPPLIED

Use two pieces of wood to hold the magnet dead centre – serendipitously, the diameter of the magnet and the dowel are both 19mmØ.

FROM AQUARIUM to handy helper

This handy picker-upper is very quick and easy to make. If you don’t have an old aquarium pump lying about, you can use any one of a variety of other small magnets available in-store. By Rod Baker

COST

3

Having cut the dowel to the desired length (or left it as its original length of 1m), clamp one end firmly on to the work surface.

4

Here’s the faulty pump. The impeller is that little propeller-like fitting and it is easily removed by pulling it out of its housing. Remove the shaft from the magnet and carefully separate the plastic impeller from the magnet. It may take some force, so be careful you do not damage the magnet.

6

1

Here are the items. The cord is optional, but I used one as it also acts as a handy loop so you can hang the picker-upper on a hook on the back of a door, for example.

2

Attach the magnet to the end of the dowel with a suitable screw. This should be long enough to penetrate the end of the dowel to a depth of at least 30mm to give it a sufficiently strong enough fixing, and the gauge needs to be small enough that it slips easily into the hole down the centre of the magnet. As the screw used here is a countersunk – that is V-shaped, the washer is there to prevent the “V” splitting the magnet. If you use a pan head screw, a washer is not vital.

5

These materials are available at selected Mica stores. To find your closest Mica, go to www.mica.co.za. If your local Mica does not stock exactly what you need, they will order it for you or suggest an alternative product or a reputable source.

Now for the ferrule … drill a hole for the hand loop cord through from the inside of the ferrule – that enables you to position it right against the inner edge of the ferrule.

7 Pull one end of the cord through the hole and then drill a second hole directly opposite the first.

8 Tie a fisherman’s knot to join the ends and pull it tight to hide in the ferrule.

9 Here’s the completed picker-upper. P

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DIY 101

UPCYCLED FRIDGE SHELF TABLE

A SHELF WITH really long life One shelf from a no longer in use fridge gets a new lease of life. By Rod Baker

TIME

4–5 days (you must allow sufficient drying time between each application of the finish)

COST R450

SKILL ★★★★✩

ASSISTANT No

YOU WILL NEED:

F

ridge shelves are tempered glass as they have to withstand assorted heavy glass dishes being placed on them, hence they are strong. This makes a spare shelf an ideal choice for a glass-topped side or coffee table. And, in this case, one surface of the shelf is frosted, adding a little extra dimension to the table’s final appearance. If you do not have an old fridge shelf, but still wish to make a glass-topped table, buy the glass of the required dimensions (ensuring that it is tempered or laminated glass, ordinary window glass is not suitable – it is too thin and liable to fracture). Then follow the procedures set out below to make your table.

HERE’S HOW:

• Frosted glass fridge shelf – 5mm thick – 473x332mm* • SA pine:** • 2 x 1.8m lengths of 22x96mm – tabletop – cut to 2 of 625mm and 2 of 495mm each end mitred at 45° • 3 x 1.8m lengths of 22x69mm – legs and feet – cut to 4 lengths of 353mm (legs) and 2 lengths of 487mm (feet) • 2 x 1.8m lengths of 22x44mm – underframe – cut to 2 lengths of 444mm and 2 lengths of 590mm – each end mitred at 45° • 8 x 8mmØ dowels • Wood glue • Finish of your choice – I chose a light oak gloss varnish. *Adapt your table’s dimensions if your fridge shelf or sheet of glass is of different dimensions **Note that timber is sold in nominal sizes. So a length of timber with a nominal 22x44mm cross-section might end up 22.5x44mm or even 22x43.5mm – or even 22.5x44.5mm. Hence, in this case, to give a height of 400 from floor to tabletop, the legs ended up as 353mm as the feet and top were slightly thicker than 22mm, with a total not of 44mm but rather 47mm (23.5mm and 23.5mm = 47mm).

1 Measure the glass shelf (including how thick it is) as everything is built around its dimensions.

TOP TIP

2 Mark the 45° mitre at the end of the 22x96mm timber.

When clamping a glued joint, don’t overclamp it … keeping the pieces snugly together is sufficient to ensure a sound bond. Never use clamping pressure to make a bad join “good” – the wood will be under permanent tension and the join will fail in time. 32

EasyDIY

TOOLS: • • • • • •

Circular cut-off saw Jigsaw Random orbital sander Mains or cordless drill/driver Router Utility knife with extendable snap-off blade • Sandpaper – 220 or 240 grit.

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3 Use a circular cut-off saw or jigsaw to make the cut – but keep the triangular offcut, you will be using it and another three later.

8 Mark the second mitre cut, but cut the length just a millimetre or two longer than required, as the space from the shelf will need to be 1mm on each edge larger than the shelf itself so that it can be seated easily.

13 Clamp one long length to the work surface.

4 This straight-cut router rebating bit will be used to make the recess for the shelf in the frame. The bit diameter is 12mm, so the rebate width will be slightly less than this – 10–11mm, I selected 11mm.

9 Repeat the process for the other end and both sides. I have used a couple of pieces of thin cardboard at each end to set the correct lengths for the four pieces making up the tabletop frame.

14 Apply glue to the join, position the adjoining frame piece against the glued surface and using a carpenter’s square, confirm that the join is a precise 90°.

5 Setting the depth of the bit to 5mm (to match the shelf’s thickness), rout the rebate to a width of 10–11mm (or less than 10mm if you so wish, but not less than 6mm so that the glass has a large enough shelf of which to rest).

6 Check that the top surface of the shelf is flush with the top surface of the frame. Set the router depth correctly. Then set the corner of the shelf on the mitred end of the timber.

7 Mark the opposite corner of the shelf. The inner edges – length and width – of the frame will be, in this case, 22mm or so smaller than the shelf itself as the rebate along each side of the frame is 11mm.

10 A dry-fitted completed mitre join.

15 Repeat the process with each corner and lightly clamp the frame together. Check that the corners are a precise 90°.

11 With all four pieces cut, dry-fit the frame to ensure there is about a 1mm gap along each edge, so the shelf is a snug fit, but can still be easily removed for cleaning.

16 Here are the four triangles mentioned in caption 3. They will be used to reinforce each corner of the tabletop.

12 Now flip the pieces face down and position a length of 250-micron black plastic under each mitre join to prevent the frame sticking to the work surface.

17 Position each triangle 46mm in from the outer edge of the frame.

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DIY 101

UPCYCLED FRIDGE SHELF TABLE

23

18 Clamp the reinforcing triangles in position.

19 Now for the underframe. This was cut from the 22x44mm timber, with the ends mitred. Align the inner edge of the mitre precisely with the 90° corner of the reinforcing triangle.

Position each leg 69mm in from the corner of the underframe, apply glue to the end and inner edge – to firmly glue the leg to the tabletop and also the underframe – clamp them into position. Remember to check that each leg is at 90°.

Cut each foot and mark the positions of two dowels at each end.

29 Use a jigsaw to round off the corners.

24

30 Finish each corner using an orbital sander.

25

Repeat the process for each piece of the underframe … if fitted accurately, the joins should all look like this.

28 With the feet firmly attached and dowel-joined, the glue was given time to cure.

Drill the 8mmØ hole for the dowels.

31

20

Round off the tabletop edges.

26 Position the foot on the ends of the legs, using a couple of offcuts to ensure the foot lines up with the leg, and drill into the legs. The dowels are 40mm long, so the depth of each hole in total needs to be 42mm or so – to allow the dowel to be fully seated.

32 Using the same rounding-off bit, round off the feet along each edge and at each end.

21 Apply glue to each mitred end to the edge that will meet the underside of the tabletop, and also to the outer edges of each reinforcing triangle. Then clamp everything together.

22 While the glue cures, cut the legs, each 353mm from the 22x69mm timber. (I cut out the section of the timber with the large knot in it).

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With the dowels glued into position, secure the foot to the leg (the dowels reinforce the join). NOTE: The ends of the dowels have been sanded to ensure they do not protrude.

33 The completed table prior to the light oak gloss varnish finish being applied – three coats, with light sanding after the first and second coats. P

These materials are available at selected Mica stores. To find your closest Mica, go to www.mica.co.za. If your local Mica does not stock exactly what you need, they will order it for you or suggest an alternative product or a reputable source.

IMAGES: SUPPLIED

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ADVERTORIAL

PROFESSIONAL

TOOLS FOR DIY’ERS INGCO High Leverage Industrial Pliers are perfect for the DIY enthusiast

carbon-bearing material and the carbon is absorbed into the metal, making the metal harder and longer wearing. The pliers are heat-treated twice to further cement the hardening process. INGCO uses large furnaces, which enable the temperature to be kept more stable, resulting in a more even heat treatment across the length of the pliers. This means that there is uniform hardness and no weak spots, increasing the lifetime of the pliers. INGCO uses oil to cool the pliers after heat treatment instead of water. The oil protects the pliers and results in a more stable and even cooling process, which, in turn, results in uniform hardness and no weak spots.

ERGONOMIC DESIGN

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PRECISE CUTTING EDGES The cutting edges are so precise that they can cut paper. This is achieved during manufacturing by machining one plier at a time on the machine instead of many and then using a CNC machine to produce the cutting edge. By honing in on one piece at a time with the most accurate machinery available, INGCO can produce a cutting edge that few can rival.

CHROME VANADIUM (CRV) INGCO uses Chrome Vanadium instead of the cheaper carbon steel for its pliers. This means that the pliers can be heat-treated to a higher Rockwell hardness, increasing the life of the pliers. The cutting lifetime of the INGCO pliers is superlative.

HEAT TREATMENT One of the most important aspects of creating a set of pliers is the heat-treatment process. INGCO uses a carburisation method to heat-treat the pliers. The metal is heated in the presence of a

➔ Scan this QR code to go directly to the INGCO website.

For more information LIKE OUR FACEBOOK PAGE ingcosouthafrica www.ingco.co.za IMAGES: SUPPLIED

I

NGCO is devoted to making professional tools affordable. We believe that the quality of tools not only refers to the function, usability and appearance, but also to the efficiency and performance In the South African marketplace, INGCO’s quality, performance and price point are highly competitive. INGCO High Leverage Industrial Pliers are market leaders in the hand tool category. The longer handle increases the leverage to such an extent that it takes 30 per cent less effort to use these pliers. The cutting edges are so accurately manufactured that these pliers can cut paper. The design of the product and its durability are among the most attractive and best in the marketplace. How is this achieved? INGCO is committed to attention to detail and producing the best performing tools in the market at the best possible price. The High Leverage Industrial Pliers boast several innovative features.

The INGCO High Leverage Pliers are designed to use 30 per cent less force to achieve the same result as regular pliers. They have a wide handle made of two-part rubber (TPR), which makes working with and holding pliers comfortable. The pliers are designed to be easily opened with one hand and have a hook design to allow the attachment of a lanyard to prevent them from falling when working at high places. Attention to detail and investment in highquality raw materials and manufacturing processes combined with an obsession to design the best tools in the world, place INGO among the market leaders. INGCO hand tools are designed to perform and last and are priced competitively. INGCO products stand their ground against the major tools brands in the world. With a global distribution network, the INGCO brand is fast becoming a name brand of its own. P

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BABY’S ROOM

Welcome home,

LITTLE ONE Tips and advice for planning a nursery makeover. By Gina Hartoog

K

itting out your baby’s nursery is one of the most exciting tasks of welcoming a new family member. But it can also be stressful for new parents. With so many choices out there – and wanting to give your little one the best start – it can be overwhelming. Here’s what you need to consider for nursery furnishings and decor.

GETTING STARTED Start with a good plan. This will ensure that you are buying items you really need and can afford and determine what you want to achieve. Firstly, plan your budget. Break it into two sections. What you need for baby. If this is your first child, your expenses will be significantly higher as you will need to purchase a cot, compactum or chest of drawers, feeding chair or

Workshop

couch, and other equipment. You will also need to decide on an overall colour scheme for the room and any particular theme you want to use. Before making any furniture purchases, measure your space. If possible, empty the room or move existing furniture to one side and use masking tape on the floor to mark where you want to place the various items. This will give you a good idea of the size of the items you need to purchase and where you need to compromise. For example, a smaller cot and a larger changing table. What you need for the room. Consider wall colours, flooring, lighting and storage.

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BABY’S ROOM WALL COLOUR

WALL DECOR IDEAS Consider making wall decor for your baby’s nursery. Here are some ideas: • Light display. Hang fairy lights or icicle lights from a wooden plank and use craft letters to spell out baby’s name on the plank. Choose a location close to a power source when you install. • Frame it. An inexpensive way to bring in your nursery theme is to use pictures from an old calendar, magazines or cards and frame them. When hanging the pictures, use an odd number – three, five or seven – in groups. It’s easier to align from the centre picture outwards. • Perfectly pegged. A pegboard in the colour of your nursery theme can make a great focal point behind baby’s changing table. Add wire baskets to use it functionally for storing items or use the board decoratively to bring in your theme and personalise it for your baby. • X marks the spot. Purchase stretch canvas or canvas board (you’ll need nine) at your local art store and paint or draw on noughts and crosses in a colour of your choice. Attach to the wall in three rows of three, as you would play the noughts and crosses game.

Colour design consultant Helen Gurura, an honorary member of The International Association of Colour Consultants/Designers, offers the following advice for choosing a wall colour: • Wall colourings not only influence a nursery’s look and feel, but also impact how the room is perceived optically. Dark colours can, if used in excess in small rooms, induce a “caving-in” effect, but light colours “open up” a space. • If used unsparingly, intense, bright and bold colours can be overstimulating and visually straining, while extremely light and pale colours are monotonous and understimulating. Finding balance and avoiding extremities is preferable and selecting mid-tone pastels in soothing hues will promote an ambience of calm in the baby’s nursery. Before making a final decision, Gurura suggests that you first paint a sample of the chosen colour on a large enough section of the wall. Always choose environmentally friendly zero- or low-VOC paint and ensure surfaces are properly prepared before any paintwork begins.

If replacing the flooring is within your budget, choose an durable, easy-to-clean option. Laminate flooring and tiles are good options and you can add a central rug for comfort underfoot and warmth. If you are looking for an eco-friendly option, consider bamboo flooring, with low VOCs. It’s waterproof, warm, quiet underfoot and hypoallergenic.

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IMAGES: ISTOCKPHOTO.COM, MK METHOD

FLOORING


LIGHTING Choose lighting carefully. Consider where you need brighter lighting, like over the changing table, and where you need softer lighting, like a lamp near your feeding chair. Several light sources around the room are better than one bright, central source. Also consider natural lighting in the room. For very bright north-facing rooms, opt for blockout curtains or blinds to ensure that baby isn’t waking up with the sun, especially in the summer months. Rods are a cost-effective option for curtaining, giving you the choice of rings or eyelet curtains. Eyelets are stylish and unfussy – a popular choice.

HOW TO ASSEMBLE FLATPACK FURNITURE Flatpack furniture is a convenient and cost-effective option. Depending on your choices, your baby’s cot and compactum may need to be assembled. Before you get started, look at what tools you need – usually a Philips or flat screwdriver, a hammer and possibly, an Allen key and spanner. If the latter two are needed, they are usually supplied as part of the kit. Avid DIY’ers should have no problems tackling a project on their own if the unit is a large one, but an extra pair of hands is recommended. We approached Bailey Zerle, category manager for BICs and decorative and utility storage at Leroy Merlin, to get some tips and guidelines for tackling a unit. Here’s her advice: • Unpack all the components and identify which piece is which on the instructions. • Put the same items together – this goes for all screws and other small items. If you have different sizes and types, then separate them so you know what you are using. • If you find that you don’t have every item listed, don’t panic. A few missing screws or a small accessory may not be needed (or you can use one you have on hand). If it’s a larger component, you’ll need to contact the store. • Rather than tackle the whole instruction booklet in one go – start at the first point. Don’t work on different parts at once as you may skip important steps. • If you don’t understand a step, try following the picture and work slowly. Sometimes it takes a few moments to make sense. Read the step again and look carefully at the drawing. Don’t throw in the towel too quickly. • Continue working through the steps. If you realise you’ve made a mistake, don’t panic. Just unscrew it and try again.

IMAGES: ISTOCKPHOTO.COM, MK METHOD

Sources: Leroy Merlin

STORAGE SPACE Megan Singer and Kasia Wojciechowska of MK Method say that parents are spoilt for choice. “Our advice is to buy furniture with drawers as lots of storage space is key,” says Singer. “We love working with drawers, that way you can see your items from a birds-eye view instead of having to dig in a cupboard.” Drawer inserts can be used to keep clothing in line and packed according to category. “If you have cupboard space, often the shelves are quite a distance apart giving you a lot of wasted space,” adds Wojciechowska. “We suggest adding in shelving, or even half shelves, then containerising so everything is easily accessible.” She cautions parents not to overlook wall space for storage. “Shelving in a small space is ideal as it keeps items off the floor and helps to add some much-needed storage and decor, making your space feel pretty and functional,” concludes Wojciechowska. P

Get organised with the MK method

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Workshop

THE BASICS

BUILD A trefoil cube In this project we look at mastering some basic skills for anyone with an interest in working with wood and other materials. By Geoff Hollingdale

D

oing things right so that a storage cabinet does not look skew, doesn’t fall down, and looks good, starts with a good design, getting the layout right, checking the measurements, cutting and drilling accurately. Finally, the finish needs to suit the nature of the materials as well as be pleasing to the eye. This project is made from wood offcuts some pine pieces left over from a job and is a test of accuracy in measurement, cutting, drilling and finish. It requires a few basic tools and is the ideal skills learning project for the budding home handyman.

SAFETY Key to enjoying any handiwork where cutting, drilling, and sanding are needed is to think first and act secondly. Using hand tools like saws, box cutters, chisels,

power tools, drills and sanders need the use of safety glasses, face masks and, if loud and noisy, earplugs. It’s highly recommended, until you get used to handling sharp tools, that you wear light protective gloves. If you wear prescription glasses, a pair of wrap-around safety glasses are essential wear to prevent scratches to your glasses and avoid a wood chip flying into the side of your glasses.

WHAT YOU’LL LEARN FROM THIS PROJECT We are going to build a simple, but interesting and fun item from wood that will teach you some basic skills, like how to align the work accurately, and you’ll also be introduced to the basic tools you need. Let’s start with the design and work out the length of the pieces needed. The project involves three sets of pieces

all with equal lengths in a geometric arrangement. To see what it looks like, visually reference the following link: https://sketchfab.com/3d-models/trefoilknot-7f77f3187e7548d2860bfb46f03ce09e You can work out what lengths you need and visualise the finished job in a 2D presentation using a free CAD design like TinkerCad©. One simple way is to use paper with a matrix of squares, like graph paper. Another way is to use PowerPoint© and use the “shapes” drawing tool. The offcuts I had were some nominal 1m lengths of 20x20 mm kiaat, and PAR (Planed All Around) pine, also 20mm square. To add an additional challenge, a spacer cut from the pine piece is added to all three sections. You could make the whole project out of one piece of 1.8m of 20x20mm pine, leaving the spacers in their natural colour and staining the remaining piece with an interesting colour. Woodoc gel stain works well and is available in a range of colours.

HERE’S HOW: 1. Let’s start with pieces nominally 100mm. The method used was to layout to scale the pieces with a scale of 10:1; so, a block shape 10mm x 2mm would represent 100mm x 20mm. Even if the timber is 22mm x 22mm, for the purpose of testing fit, there is no need to use 2.2mm instead of 2 mm.

Fig 1. Shows the arrangement when viewed from one side with Fig. 2. the view when the object is rotated 90°.

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Fig. 2. View from object rotated. So basically, you can play around with various lengths and sizes (assuming the size is equal). You could, for example, use 22 x 42mm material, but fitting it together gets a lot more complicated.

2. Making a temporary work surface. If you don’t have access to a workbench in your garage or elsewhere a simple, a sturdy work surface can be made from four plastic stackable crates and a piece of 16mm formica-topped chipboard or MDF about 50 to 60cm square. Often the bigger hardware stores have offcuts which you can have for a low price. 3. Cutting the lengths to size. For small pieces of timber, a very practical low-cost tool is a hacksaw blade mounted in a holder. A suitable blade would be 24 TPI and it’s mounted in the holder so that the teeth face backwards, in other words, you cut on the backstroke.

Fig. 3. Hacksaw blade holder with blade-fitted teeth facing towards the handle. Measure the length and mark with a soft, sharp pencil using a set square or combination square. Using a retracting blade cutting knife to score across the cut stops “tearing” when you start sawing and gives a clean saw cut.

Fig. 4. Combination square If you need to cut many pieces to length, measuring once and using the first cut piece as a guide for the rest of the pieces avoids measuring errors and the repetitive action of measuring and pencil marking. Now it’s just score and cut. Finish the pieces by lightly sandpapering using 120-grit paper. “Break” the wood edges so that when handling the wood there are no sharp edges. Fig. 5.​ Scoring the cut lines. You’ll notice in the photo that I’m using a clamp to hold the workpiece. For a budding handyman, you’ll quickly learn that clamps are an important tool to have to hand. In this instance, a G-CLAMP is being used.

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THE BASICS

NOTE About as simple as a clamp can get, this comprises a steel frame with a heavy gauge threaded spindle that is wound through one end, making it looks like the letter G when open. The spindle has a disc-shaped swivel shoe mounted at one end, which moves towards or away from the top arm of the G as it is turned with a tommy bar at the other end.

Fig. 6.​ Cutting with the hacksaw.

Fig. 7. G Clamp 4. Assembling the pieces. When joining any items together, whether it’s a simple project like this or building a more complex project as you might see in this magazine, the important part is getting the pieces to sit “square” to each other. For example, a shelf erected on a wall doesn’t work if the shelf is tilted or hangs other than ‘“square” to the wall; putting – up a kitchen cupboard and finding that the door hangs skew and won’t close is not what you want. So, like anything else you might build we need to cut/glue/join our pieces together in such a way that the three individual pieces we start with end up joining and aligning together.

Fig. 8. shows what we want to assemble. Pieces A, B and C. Using a small piece of masking tape, mark the pieces A1, A2 etc.

Fig. 8B. Showing skewing of pieces.

Before assembling, get the following ready: • A roll of baking paper • A small bottle of wood glue, ALCOLIN is suggested • Set square/combination square • 25 mm masking tape. Prepare the area where you can assemble the pieces. Lay down a piece of baking paper about 30cms long. As you glue, you won’t glue the workpieces to the surface you’re working on! Spread a thin layer of glue onto the small area where the pieces join. Don’t overglue. Less is more. Check the pieces are tight against each other and square to each other. Put a small piece of baking paper over the joined pieces; put a positioner such as a paint tin or brick to hold the upright and in place and leave for about four hours to join. After eight hours, the join will have cured and if you try to break open the joint it will tear apart at the wood, not the joint! When joining the small insert of pine, line up the pieces and hold them in place with a strip of masking tape. Push the pieces together. Wrap the masking tape firmly over the joint. You can now take the assembled pieces A, B and C and join together. Start with a pair and join say, A and C.

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Figs. 9A and B. Using a set-square to check the alignment when glueing with the small spacer block and an upright inplace.

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IMAGES: SUPPLIED

Fig. 8A. Arrangement of assemblies A, B, C


Fig. 9B. Using a set-square to check alignment.

Fig. 10. Linking two pieces together We need to ensure that the pieces, having been glued, are at 90° and not skewed. Otherwise, the fitting of the pieces to line up won’t be possible. Then it’s yelling and remorse and starting over!

INTRODUCING LOW-COST CLAMPS

It’s at this stage, as with lots of jobs in woodworking, that you need help from an extra “pair of hands”. Enter two low-cost clamps. One-handed clamps: this class of device is designed for convenience more than powerful compression. Spring and bar clamps are tightened by squeezing the handles, which also give you a feel for how much pressure is being exerted on the workpiece. Spring clamps: like oversize bulldog clips, these are about as simple as clamps get. They comprise a pair of spring-loaded metal or plastic handles that pivot to open the jaws when squeezed together. They are best for thin workpieces and use spring tension to exert force.

A

TOP TIP

IMAGES: SUPPLIED

Some models of clamps even feature an interlocking function that allows them to be used as a temporary vice.

B Fig. 11A and B. Spring Clamps Some are designed with adjustable jaws. Bar clamps: the ultimate all-rounder, bar clamps are fast and easy to use, grip tightly and usually have large jaw faces with buffers that won’t damage the timber. They are operated by squeezing the handle to advance the bar with a fixed jaw at the end. A smaller trigger catch can be pressed to release the bar and let it slide freely. Fig. 12. Bar Clamps At this stage, the construction will look like a complex of clamps.

Fig. 14. Completed project P

Fig. 13. Here, all three pieces are test clamped together to check for the alignment of a third piece. As a golden rule, “dry” check pieces fit together before glueing. A small adjustment can be made by sanding an end to ease the fit. Hopefully, you’ve positioned the pieces carefully. Remove the clamps and you should have a Trefoil Cube.

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Published in October 2022 To advertise in the upcoming issue of Energy, please contact: Gavin Payne Sales Project Manager Tel: +27(0) 21 469 2477 Cell: +27 74 031 9774 Email: gavinp@picasso.co.za

ENERGY PUBLISHER

PICASSO HEADLINE, A PROUD DIVISION OF ARENA HOLDINGS (PTY) LTD Hill on Empire 16 Empire Road (cnr Hillside Road), Parktown, Johannesburg Postal Address: PO Box 12500, Mill Street, Cape Town, 8001

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Workshop

GARDEN PATH

Down the

TIME

GARDEN PATH A simple project to lay a path using paving slabs Here is how to use cement slabs to lay a garden path, this project is suitable for the novice to intermediate DIY’er. But first, a few points to note: • Paving slabs are available in a wide range of sizes and thicknesses that can vary from manufacturer to manufacturer*. • Ensure that the top surfaces of the slabs are all on the same level for a very level piece of ground, or the same gradient for a slightly sloping area. You don’t want a path with slabs at different levels – even the smallest difference can result in someone tripping. • Pay attention to the surface on which you will be walking. Select nonslip surfaces, particularly when paving around a pool area, but bear in mind that any garden path is subject to the weather – and you do not want to slip on a wet path. • Nonslip surfaces may have a natural pattern, or a series of closely-spaced dimples, grooves or some other regular pattern, or be pebble-dashed. The purpose is to enhance the friction between shoe soles and the slab.

*Slab thicknesses tend to vary slightly from the specifications, so to achieve a level top surface the amount of packing you will need underneath each one can differ.

HERE’S HOW: 1. First, measure the length of the path you intend laying. A straight path is straightforward, but if you are building in a curve or a zigzag, you will need to measure the outer and inner lengths. 2. Consider setting the slab spacing to your step length. 3. Consider small gaps between each slab – about 50mm for a straight path is good – as your lawn grass will fill in the spaces and you will have a more attractive result. In addition, should any slab sink a little over time, it is easier if there is a small gap to lift it out and adjust the amount of soil under it.

7.

8.

9.

10.

NOTE

if you ever need to do this, ensure that the slabs on either side are still level to avoid tripping. This means you might need to adjust the level of more than one slab to sort out the culprit.

4. Think about setting the slab spacing to your step length. 5. Based on the above, select your slab size – check out what your local hardware shop has and decide from there. 6. Mark off your path using builder’s line or string; if leading off existing paving,

11.

as in this case, lining up the path with the paving will look better than if the path slabs are out of line. Position the slabs along the builder’s line, spacing them as desired and then step back and check the result. Adjust as necessary until you are satisfied with the overall appearance. Use a spade to cut around the edges of the slab, digging in only far enough to seat the slab properly. Move the slab aside, and using the spade at a very flat angle cut out the lawn square. Seat the slab in its recess and use a level to adjust/check that it is level. Lift it out and remove or spread a little extra soil to adjust the level and seat the slab properly in its recess. Repeat this procedure for each slab, checking between each to ensure that they are all lined up and not creating a tripping hazard.

This will be determined by various factors, for example, the type of slabs you will be using, their dimensions and the length of the path

COST

Depends on the number of slabs required, their type and size

SKILL HHIII

ASSISTANT No

TOOLS: • Spade • Stakes • Rope • Rubber mallet (never use a steel hammer to help settle a slab – you are very likely to crack it – and use the mallet without undue force).

SOME SLAB SIZES (MM): • 1 000x500x50 • 600x600x45 • 600x300x45 • 500x500x48 • 450x450x50 • 440x440x45 • 300x300x45 • 400x400x45 • 400x400x35 • 400x200x45 • 225x225x40 • 200x200x45 • 100x100x45

NOTE that circular and hexagonal slabs are also available as are slabs with different surfaces – patterns, smooth, nonslip and peddle-dashed, to give just a few examples – and different colours.

These materials are available at selected Mica stores. To find your closest Mica, go to www.mica.co.za. If your local Mica does not stock exactly what you need, they will order it for you or suggest an alternative product or a reputable source.

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GARDEN PATH

1 An example of a natural patterned slab, which is also referred to as a flagstone. The design offers slip resistance, but is also made to look rather like a natural slab of stone. Different designs in a range of colours are available.

2 This is a pebble-dashed slab surface. It offers a decorative appearance, but is also high slip-resistant, making it a good choice for around a pool area, for example.

4

If you need to build a curve into the path, it is relatively easy to arrive at a curve that will match the slab dimensions. Let’s assume you are using 500x500mm slabs and that you will have them touching at the corners as they pass around the curve. So, three slabs equal a length of 1 500mm, and as they pass around only ¼ of a circle, the full circumference of the circle would then be 6 000mm (6m). The circumference of a circle is πd where π is pi – 3.142, and ‘d’ is the diameter. So the diameter of the circle would be 6 = πd. Hence ‘d’ = 6 ÷ 3.142 = 1.9m. The radius is half the diameter and therefore 0.95m or 950mm. Note how the radial lines from the centre of the curve pass through the centreline of each tile on the curve.

5

Decide on the centre point of your curve, tying off the rope (don’t use string as it can stretch, messing up your even curve – chain is best) to give a radius, in this case, of 950mm. Place your marker stick at the midpoint of the last of the straight path slabs and position the pivot as close as possible to the centre. Then, keeping the pivot stake in place, move your marker stick to the first of the straight path slabs at the other end of the curve and shift the pivot stake as required to what will be the centre of your circle, and drive it in. Now all you need to do is scribe out the ¼ of the circle making up the path’s curve.

6

Use a length of tautly stretched builder’s line or string to align your path with the existing paving – if running the path off existing paving, naturally.

8 Once the slabs are all seated to your satisfaction, sweep loose soil into the gaps between them, spraying lightly with a garden hose to flush excess soil under each slab to fill in their recesses.

9 You can take some excess lawn grass and plant it in the gaps between the slabs. This is the result after a few weeks. You might need to make a couple of adjustments during the first couple of weeks as the slabs settle. I suggest walking on the path, putting your feet in the centre of each slab (to exert your weight evenly across the full area of the slab) quite frequently to help them settle.

7

As mentioned above under “Here’s How”, position the slabs and then one by one, cut around them and excavate their recesses.

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Use a level to check that they are level, or at the same gradient and none are higher than their adjacent companions.

10

The completed path, lined up with the existing paving and incorporating a curve. P

IMAGES: SUPPLIED

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Guide to

BIRD FEEDERS

Best feeders

FOR OUR FEATHERED FRIENDS

1 TUBE FEEDER

We investigate what shape bird feeders work best and which materials are safe for the birds. By Gina Hartoog

B

irds bring colour and sound to the garden, and in winter, when food sources are scarce, you can provide supplementary feeding for the feathered friends that visit your garden. If you are keen on making a bird feeder, there are thousands of plans available on the internet. But where should one start? What shapes are best and which materials are safer and more durable?

2 HOPPER FEEDER

TYPES OF FEEDERS The birds that visit our South African gardens may be seed-eaters (like doves and sparrows), insect-eaters (like Cape robin-chats and thrushes) or omnivores like bulbuls and mousebirds. Some areas also enjoy vibrant sunbirds and hummingbirds that feed on nectar. Most bird feeders cater for seed-eating birds, while others provide a place for the user to add fruit, suet and mealworms. The feeder should be sturdy and durable enough to withstand the elements. It should also be easy to fill and, most importantly, to keep clean. • Tube feeders. These have a clear cylinder in the centre, which holds the seeds and empties them into a base below. Some designs also include perches at intervals up the tube to allow birds to perch and eat. • Hopper feeders. They have a solid central container, usually in the shape of a house, which holds the seeds and empties them into a spacious tray below. A “roof” covers the structure and keeps seeds dry. • Trays or table feeders. These are open platforms that can be used for seeds and mealworms and may also contain hooks for fruit. A tray feeder may be hung from above or placed on a pole in the ground. • Suet and nectar feeders. These feeders are mesh cylinders or saucer-types that hold a ball or block of suet, or a bottle-type, designed to dispense sugar water for nectar-loving birds. A red cap is usually added to attract the birds.

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3 TRAY FEEDER

4 SUET FEEDER

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1

2

Using pine for your bird feeder is very cost-effective.

Sanding your wood is essential to ensure you get rid of any jagged edges.

CHOOSING YOUR MATERIALS

3

4 Old ceramic planters, PVC pipes or plastic bottles are perfect for building your bird feeder.

Decide whether you want to purchase new materials for your project, or if you would rather upcycle or repurpose materials. • New materials. Natural wood is a favourite among DIY’ers. It’s easy to work with and if you have your measurements, you can get your wood cut at the merchant, saving yourself some time on the project. SA pine is cost-effective and provides a solid base for your bird feeder. Never use treated lumber as this can be harmful to the birds. Once complete, sand the structure to finish off the edges – jagged edges can cut the birds’ feet and snag feathers. Any injuries can be detrimental to a bird’s health. Once your structure is complete, you will need to seal it to prevent water damage and prolong the life of your feeder. Linseed oil is nontoxic and a preferred treatment that is safe for birds, but it doesn’t provide UV protection. If you plan to place your bird feeder in direct sunlight, rather seal with a nontoxic, water-based sealer with UV protection. • Upcycling or repurposing materials. Several items can be repurposed to make bird feeders. These include ceramic plant containers, old teacups, glass jars, PVC piping, mesh netting (holds suet balls), old milk and cold drink bottles and many other items. If you choose plastic items, sand or file any sharp or jagged edges to prevent injuries. Once your project is complete, you can choose to paint it with water-based, nontoxic paint. P

IMAGES: ISTOCKPHOTO.COM

SAFE FEEDING: DOS AND DON’TS

Use a nontoxic water-based paint to finish your feeder.

5

• Regularly clean your feeders – for plastic, use a bleach and water solution (1:9) to disinfect the units or hand wash in hot, soapy water. Rinse thoroughly and allow to dry completely before refilling with seeds. For wooden feeders, scrub down with a bristle brush and allow to dry thoroughly. • If seeds get wet or look mouldy, remove immediately and top up with fresh seed. • Keep the area under your feeders clean by regularly removing discarded seeds, husks and bird droppings to prevent the spread of disease.

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To advertise in the upcoming issue of GREEN, please contact: Gavin Payne Sales Project Manager +27(0) 21 469 2477 +27 74 031 9774 gavinp@picasso.co.za PUBLISHER

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Living

FIRE EXTINGUISHERS

EXTINGUISH the blaze Learn which fire extinguisher to use on which class of fire – it’s important to use the right one. By Gina Hartoog

FIVE FIRE CLASSES • Class A – combustible material. Examples: wood, plastic, waste and cloth. Remember: A for ash • Class B – Flammable liquids and gases. Examples: petrol, oil, paraffin and paint. Remember: B for boil/bubble. • Class C – Fire in the presence of live electrical equipment. Examples: wiring, circuit breakers and overloaded outlets. Remember: C for circuit/current. • Class D – Combustible metals. Examples: titanium, aluminium and magnesium. Remember: D for dent (if you knock metal, it can dent). • Class F – Commercial kitchens. Examples: Cooking fats, animal fats and vegetable oils. Remember: F for fats/fast food

TYPES OF FIRE EXTINGUISHERS There are six main types of fire extinguishers, but not all are suitable

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for all types of fires. For example, water fire extinguishers are suitable where combustible materials like wood and paper have ignited (Class A fires). If you use a water fire extinguisher on a Class F fire, very hot steam and oil may be expelled into the air, possibly causing another fire and resulting in serious injury. Before selecting a fire extinguisher, you need to identify the fire risks. Which types of fires are more likely in your home? The answer can help you determine the type of extinguisher you should consider, and if you need more than one type, based on your risk profile. Singh says that although not a legislative requirement, it is recommended that every home have at least one fire extinguisher. “The most commonly sited fire extinguisher is a Dry Chemical Powder (ABC) fire extinguisher. But this does not mean that it is the most suitable fire extinguisher for every home. One would have to assess the risks within the household to determine which extinguisher would be the most suitable.” The fire extinguisher has a coloured instruction label that clearly indicates the class of fire suitable for that extinguisher. Fire extinguishers are designed in accordance with SANS 1910 and should bear the SABS mark of approval. No design should be called superior as there is a standard, explains Singh. P

Water Most suitable for Class A fire Dangerous for other classes

Foam Most suitable for Class B Suitable for Class A Dangerous for Class C, D and F

CO2 Most suitable for Class C Suitable for Class B Less suitable for Class A Dangerous for Class D and F

Dry Powder Only for Class D

PASS method

Use this acronym to remember how to use your fire extinguisher: P – Pull the pin (it’s located on the handle). A – Aim the nozzle at the base of the fire. S – Squeeze the handle. S – Sweep from side to side; stand a safe distance away.

Wet Chemical Agent Most suitable for Class F Unsuitable for all other classes Finally, you need to know how to use your fire extinguisher. In case of a fire, seconds count and you need to be able to find the extinguisher and use it quickly – there isn’t time to read the label.

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aving a fire extinguisher in your home means you can quickly put out a small fire before it gets out of control. However, not all fires and fire extinguishers are equal and you need to use the correct one or you could make the situation worse, or even cause injury to yourself and others. “The most common cause of fires in the household is electricity and the misuse of electrical equipment. With load shedding and power outages, this is becoming more frequent and more of a concern,” says Kashan Rohith Singh, technical team leader at the Fire Protection Association of Southern Africa. “Another cause would be poor housekeeping, allowing combustible material or even flammable liquids and gases to come into contact with ignition sources, which can vary from electrical to mechanical.”

Dry Chemical Powder • ABC type – Class A, B and C Unsuitable for Class F • BC type – Class B and C Unsuitable for Class A, D and F

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