Blue Ridge Outdoors April 2024

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BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COM APRIL 2024 FREE! Outdoor Family Issue HELPFUL TIPS: Camping With Kids + BEST RV CAMPGROUNDS + PADDLING GETAWAYS + A WALK AROUND CHARLESTON Adventures for All Ages
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7 | ESSAY

A family hike helps a top ultrarunner process getting older.

68 | THE OUT AND BACK

After one too many blunders in the outdoors, I now endorse using a guide.

71 | THE GOODS

Great gear for family camping.

74 | TRAIL MIX

New tunes from Bonny Light Horseman and Old 97’s.

9

Expert tips on getting little ones comfortable sleeping under the stars.

18

| BECOMING A WILD WOMAN

A city girl from Amsterdam gets used to her new life in Asheville.

24

These RV campgrounds offer sweet scenery and access to adventure.

55 | SPEAKING OF STONES

When the meditative task of gathering in the woods leads to self-realization.

56

This spring, get on the water at one of these family friendly paddling towns.

60

| A LONG WALK IN CHARLESTON

A family emergency gets an avid adventurer well acquainted with South Carolina's historic city.

4 BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS
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CAMPING WITH KIDS
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PARK
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IT HERE
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April 2024 CONTENTS DEPARTMENTS
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9 ON THE COVER ADVERTISING INQUIRIES advertise@blueridgeoutdoors.com
COVER ILLUSTRATION BY STEVEN MCQUILKIN. @MCQUILKINSTEVEN
PHOTO COURTESY OF FBRA PHOTO COURTESY OF THE WEST VIRGINIA DEPARTMENT OF TOURISM

Virginia is for all kinds of outdoor lovers. Whether you're a spring mountain hiker, a vineyard wonderer, or a lake lounger, Virginia's got something for every type of outdoor lover. So, come love it for yourself! virginia.org

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WHERE ALMOST HEAVEN BEGINS

In Je erson County, historic trails lead you along majestic rivers, through a national park, and to endless outdoor adventures. Our welcoming towns make you feel at home and sometimes a voice from the past will echo in the breeze. Je erson County is your rst step to exploring West Virginia. Take it and you will quickly realize this is Where Almost Heaven Begins.

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THE LONG DOWNHILL

I AM ASHAMED TO ADMIT THIS, but my kids hate hiking. It is one of my great failings as an outdoor dad. On our most recent hike, they complained for the entire car ride to the trailhead.

“Hiking is slow and boring. It’s just walking. How long will this take?”

Honestly, part of me was dreading this trip, too. We were hiking to Shuckstack Fire Tower along the Appalachian Trail in Great Smoky Mountains National Park. Twenty years ago, I had set a speed record running this trail. Now, I was a middle-aged parent. What would it feel like to walk in the footsteps of my former self?

Five times, I ran the 72-mile stretch of Appalachian Trail across the Smokies. The first time, I suffered an asthma attack that slowed me to a wheezing shuffle. Soon it was night. There was no cell signal. I was alone in the dark, without a headlamp, and I had run out of food and water. For hours, I stumbled along in a gasping blur, tripping over roots and rocks. I finally made it to Fontana Dam early the next morning.

After that, I ran across the Smokies three more times, getting faster and stronger with each journey. I eventually decided to chase the Fastest Known Time for the route.

I started on the east side of the park near Interstate 40, ran up the long climb to Mount Cammerer, rolled along the sawtooth ridgeline, descended into Newfound Gap, climbed up Clingmans, across Thunderhead, and refilled my water bottle at a spring near Mollies Ridge. With 10 miles to go, I was behind pace. I flung myself faster down the trail.

Then, about a mile from Shuckstack, I rounded a bend and saw a massive black bear. It was about 30 yards away, lumbering right toward me along the trail. I was too tired to think clearly and

too hurried to find an alternate route. So I just ran around him. I went about five yards off trail, and so did he. He snorted disapprovingly as we passed.

I arrived at Shuckstack near dusk and began the long descent to Fontana Dam. I let it rip. It was the fastest, most painful, most intense, and most exhilarating three miles of my life. I flew across the dam, barely setting the record, and crumpled into the grass and puked. Then I sat beside the still, quiet lake, watching the light drain from the sky behind the mountains.

Now, 20 years later, I had returned to Fontana, this time with my wife and kids. We parked and walked across the dam, where we could faintly see the fire tower on a distant ridge.

“That’s way too far!” my kids protested. “This is the worst day of my life.”

The three-mile hike to the tower ascends a series of switchbacks along the Appalachian Trail—the same switchbacks I had soared down two decades ago. As we hiked, shards of memories would suddenly stab through: a familiar trail marker, a downed tree across the trail, the loose scree below a rock outcrop.

Mostly, though, I was trying to stay present and keep my moping kids entertained. My wife and I packed a lot of candy and snacks to entice them up the trail. We distracted them with riddles and random challenges. Sooner than anyone expected, we were standing beneath the fire tower. My kids were stunned that the little stick on the distant horizon was now a 40-foot steel tower in front of them.

Fire towers are often overlooked hiking destinations. These abandoned aerial outposts are still open to hikers, and they provide sweeping 360-degree vistas. Fire towers were built across the region in the 1930s, and rangers were stationed there—often for months at a time—to scan the forests for wildfires. Most fire towers were eventually dismantled, but many dozens are still scattered across

Southern Appalachia, including Shuckstack.

Previously, I had been in too much of a goddamn hurry to ever stop at Shuckstack. Now, I had all the time in the world.

We climbed the rickety staircase up to a wooden box with windows on all sides. The floor was rotting and spongy, and graffiti covered the interior walls. One of the windows was broken. But in those first moments atop the tower, all I could see was a stunning panorama of raw, wild forest. For the first time in a while, I felt a pang of hope.

My kids were also blown away. We couldn’t get them to leave. They snapped selfies and soaked it all in.

We finally climbed down the stairs and began the hike back. Somewhere between Shuckstack and the dam, I finally accepted it: I would never be the kid I once was. That fast, free kid flying down the trail was long gone.

For years, I had been chasing a shadow of my former self. I was still running—even occasionally racing. I was trying to catch a version of

myself who could never be reeled in, who would continue opening the gap.

Glimpses of the lake below appeared through the trees— another familiar scene, a splinter from the past. What happens after you peak? What is left to chase? All I could see ahead of me was a long, slow descent.

It was I who was moping now.

And suddenly, it was my kids who were running.

Out of nowhere, they took off down the trail. They glided through the forest, floating over rocks and roots. I gave chase, but they were flying. They were soaring.

My heart soared with them. I ran behind, keeping them in sight. On switchbacks, I caught glimpses of them—hair blown back, faces glowing.

What happens when your fastest days are behind you? You help others reach their peak. It was a new and unexpected exhilaration.

The sun was sinking behind the mountains, but there was still plenty of trail ahead.

APRIL 2024 | BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COM 7
AGING ESSAY
PHOTO COURTESY OF THE AUTHOR

The Kids are in Tents

Expert-Backed Tips for Camping with Children

PARENTING IS HARD. PARENTING IN A FLIMSY nylon shelter in the middle of the woods is even harder. To make camping with your kiddo less of a muddy, mosquito-ridden nightmare, we have rounded up five tips from outdoor educators across the Southeast.

Tip #1: Choose the Right Campsite

In your younger, childless years, roughing it deep in the backcountry was tolerable—fun even. But now that you have created a mini-me, it’s time to reevaluate your campsite selection.

If this is your youngster’s first foray into the forest, consider picking a tent spot that’s easily accessible by car and close to restrooms, potable water sources, and other amenities. Bonus points if you can find a campground with a jungle gym or swimming pool.

“Keep it fun,” says Grant Bullard, owner and director of Gwynn Valley Camp in Brevard, N.C. “It is important not to push too hard.”

APRIL 2024 | BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COM 9
EMPOWER YOUR KIDDO BY TEACHING THEM BASIC CAMPING SKILLS. PHOTO COURTESY OF FBRA

Tip #2: Pack Good Snacks (And Other Essentials)

Zombies are scary. So are vampires and chupacabras. But nothing strikes fear into the heart of parents quite like a hangry kid. That’s why packing plenty of scrumptious snacks is essential for surviving your family camping escapade.

Before your trip, stock up on grab-able goodies your kids love, like granola bars, fruit gummies, and trail mixes. “Always bring along good food,” Bullard confirms.

According to the camp director, tasty treats can keep tantrums at bay. But they can also open the door for dialogue.

“Pass a bag of potato chips around the car after an experience and ask all the right questions,” he suggests. “What was their favorite part of the day? What did they do that they would want to do again? Or not do again? What might they do differently the next time?”

In addition to food, don’t forget to pack other essentials like sunscreen, insect repellent, and a well-stocked first aid kit for when your son decides to wipe with stinging nettle.

FOOD MAKES ANY CAMPING TRIP BETTER. PHOTO COURTESY OF FBRA PICKENS COUNTY SOUTH CAROLINA MEMORIES START HERE @explorepickenscountysc Lake Keowee Six Mile, SC
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Tip #3: Empower Your Kiddo

If your whippersnapper is a little freaked out by camping, don’t worry— that’s completely normal.

“If they have never camped before, they might be nervous or curious about what the sleeping setup will look like, how to use their gear, or how to prepare food,” says Nora Randolph, outdoor programs director at French Broad River Academy in Asheville, N.C. “Of course, there will always be some nerves about bugs and critters as well.”

To assuage these fears, teach them basic skills like how to pitch a tent, start a fire, and follow Leave No Trace principles. You might even camp in the backyard to get their feet wet (both literally and metaphorically).

“Everything takes practice,” says Randolph. “After the first camping trip, kids know what to expect and get really good at their camping skills. They get excited to plan aspects of the trip and to be responsible for parts of the experience.”

APRIL 2024 | BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COM 13
PLAN FUN ACTIVITIES TO KEEP BOREDOM AT BAY. PHOTO COURTESY OF WILDERNESS ADVENTURE AT EAGLE LANDING

Tip #4: Plan Kid-Friendly Activities

While your idea of a good time might be relaxing down by the river, that probably won’t keep your tween entertained for very long.

When camping with kids, it’s essential to think outside of the campfire ring and plan activities that cater to their interests and energy levels. You might set up a scavenger hunt around the campground, where they search for natural treasures like pinecones and rocks. Or you may go paddling on a nearby river.

Of course, try as you might, there will come a time when your child gets bored and fussy. In these situations, it’s important to “validate their feelings and let them know they’re heard,” says Annika Enders, director of programs at Wilderness Adventure at Eagle Landing in New Castle, Virginia.

From there, try to think of what they enjoy doing at home—whether that’s playing card games or drawing—and then “replicate that to the best of your ability,” Enders suggests.

14 BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS
PHOTO COURTESY OF WILDERNESS ADVENTURE AT EAGLE LANDING

Outdoor family fun abounds in Charlottesville and Albemarle County! Get outside and explore miles of hiking and biking trails, parks, water activities, and special nature programs, perfect for the entire family. VISITCHARLOTTESVILLE.ORG/FAMILYOUTDOORS

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Tip #5: Remember Why You’re Out There

Camping with kids requires patience, patience, and—yup, you guessed it—more patience.

There will be teary-eyed moments when you want nothing more than to pack up and head home. But hang in there. Even if your kiddo won’t stop whining about the mosquitoes or the scorching heat or how they can’t play video games, know that roughing it for a night or two is making them stronger, grittier individuals.

“There's no question about the worth of introducing children to the natural world,” Bullard says. “The positives are abundant and priceless. As they overcome a fear or challenge, we are helping them build resilience.”

Randolph seconds this. “Kids thrive on opportunities to learn new skills, and they also thrive when they have a chance to relax and have fun,” she says. “Spending time outside, especially when they can be immersed in the experience for a couple of days, helps kids connect in a real way to the people and nature around them.”

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APRIL 2024 | BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COM 17 Plan Your Next Getaway at Gatlinburg.com Calling LOVERS OF THE GREAT OUTDOORS

BECOMING A WILD WOMAN

How a city girl from Amsterdam started running up mountains around Asheville and faced her fear of the outdoors. about life in Asheville, where social outings revolve around exploring the outdoors. More often than to a playground or pool, we’d take our kids to hike a mountain or swim in a swimming hole. An invite for a run didn’t mean a twomile shuffle along neighborhood streets, but a six-mile trail run on the Mountains-to-Sea Trail with creeks, wildflowers, and epic views. Spotting wild geese, grasshoppers, and yes, those black bears, I felt like I was running through a Mary Oliver poem.

AS A CITY KID GROWING UP IN Amsterdam, my teenage hobby was reading and my nickname in P.E. was Bollie (Chubby). On family outings “into nature” we went to Het Amsterdamse Bos , a manmade forest sandwiched between the city and Schiphol Airport, the main hub of the Netherlands and its 17 million people. A “hike” on the flat manicured paths of this forest would look like this: I’d follow the signs resembling mushrooms telling me up to the tenth of a kilometer how far I still had to walk to the petting zoo or cafe for a Heineken bie r for mom and dad, a limonade for me and my sis.

Getting lost in the woods? No chance. Less than one percent of the Netherlands still has large-scale wild nature. And when it comes to animals and birds, rangers of Het Amsterdamse Bos encourage hikers to spot their “big five”: the Marsh Harrier, the Kingfisher, the Scottish Highlander, the grass snake, and the squirrel. Not that I ever saw this magnificent wildlife, surrounded by squealing kids on the playground or at the Trim Route with stationary exercise equipment.

So clearly I was unprepared for my first week in Asheville, when my new mailman, of all people, pointed out a black bear just down the block. I moved here in 2012 when my husband got a job at Mission Hospital and quickly learned there were some new things I’d be getting used to in western North Carolina. Soon enough I knew what to do when the text chain of my new neighborhood friend group read: “Bear with cubs on Pearson drive.” I’d bring my kids inside, then gaze at the gentle giants searching for trash scraps from a safe distance, never interfering or feeding them.

New friends showed me more

It feels like everyone in Asheville runs, hikes, bikes, climbs, or paddles, so I decided to lean in and, despite my apprehension after years of city living, embrace the activities of my new friends and neighbors.

I thought biking would be easy. The Netherlands has an estimated 23.9 million bicycles (more bikes than people) and I practically pedaled out of the womb. As a kid I biked three miles to school and back, and in my twenties my bicycle was my only mode of transportation, getting me from A to B cruising along Amsterdam canals. But just the thought of speeding down the Blue Ridge Parkway on two wheels gave me road rash. And even the easy mountain bike trails in Bent Creek had way too many trees to slam into. Plus, I didn’t really know what to do with gears. When your country is flat as a pancake, a backpedal is all you need.

Riding a bike in North Carolina made me feel like a toddler in need of training wheels. Meanwhile my kids quickly lóst their training wheels, navigating trails at the Biltmore, Explorer Loop in Bent Creek, and Dupont Loop in Brevard. On family outings we hit the trails and I…hit the ground,

flying over the handlebars, once indeed slamming into a tree. With a bruised ego, I took biking lessons at the Bike Farm in Brevard. Motion Makers group rides on Wednesday ("no woman left behind") and Saturday rides with the Blue Ridge Dirt Skrrts have also been great as a novice mountain biker. Now even a klutz like me loves speeding down a mountain.

In running I made bigger strides. Back in my native country, a 3.3-kilometer loop in Amsterdam’s Vondelpark was a sporty way to balance out my party life. But in Asheville a Santa 5K turned into a regular routine of trail running, and then coach Norm Blair of Jus’ Running convincing me to run the Shut-In Trail Race, 18 miles up Mount Pisgah.

I’ve recently realized a pattern has emerged. I’ll pick an activity, find

the right people, educate myself, and go do it! Applying this to other pursuits that have crossed my path, I’ve now paddled on the French Broad River, danced in a Farmers Market flash mob, learned to ski at Cataloochee, jumped in waterfalls, and got photographed naked in the woods by René Treece, who specializes in capturing your wild essence in nature.

Growing up in a big city, I didn’t know what I was missing. But since moving to Asheville, I’ve tapped into new parts of my curiosity and faced my fears, thanks to the city’s proximity to the outdoors and the nature-focused, open-minded people who foster a welcoming community. Here you can always learn something new, do something scary, grow a little more, and go wild.

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THE AUTHOR, RUNNING THE SHUT-IN RIDGE TRAIL RUN IN NORTH CAROLINA. PHOTO COURTESY OF JUS' RUNNING
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Wanderlust on Wheels

Four Great RV Campgrounds in the Blue Ridge for Outdoor Explorers

Finding a safe, scenic place to park a 40-foot motorhome or dual-axle travel trailer isn’t easy. Lucky for you, we have searched high and low for RV-friendly campgrounds in the Blue Ridge region. Here’s what we found.

SKIP THE TENT AND OPT FOR AN RV INSTEAD. PHOTO COURTESY OF RVSHARE

CAMP HOLLY

Diana, W.Va.

Best For: Solitude Seekers

Located 30 minutes from any supermarket, big-box retailer, or fast food joint, Camp Holly is the perfect place to get away.

According to campground owner Xavier Walter, the property spans 23 acres of West Virginia wilderness and features nine full-service RV sites along the banks of Grassy Creek. Besides relaxing by the stream, guests can explore on-site trails, play yard games, or even hole up in their travel trailer and stream Netflix. (The WiFi, says Walter, is surprisingly fast for the area.)

You can also cast a line in Pete’s Pond, a three-acre lake teeming with trout, bass, and catfish. Since the lake is stocked, you can keep your bounty and even grab some produce from the garden to round out your meal.

“A guest can literally catch and cook dinner using fresh-grown herbs and vegetables without leaving camp,” says Walter.

Other amenities range from a climbing dome to a bathhouse, which campers commend for its cleanliness. “We take pride in helping guests have the best experience possible,” the host assures.

APRIL 2024 | BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COM 25
CAST A LINE IN PETE’S POND AT CAMP HOLLY. PHOTO COURTESY OF CAMP HOLLY
26 BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS P L A N Y O U R A D V E N T U R E KENTCOUNTY.COM/VISITORS You’re welcome here. Kent County Maryland

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Sure, you could load up the kids and take them to an amusement park for a long weekend. But if you want to save money and your sanity, head to Silver Creek Campground instead.

Nestled on 48 acres in the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains, Silver Creek has everything you need to keep your rugrats happy (think a fishing pond, playground, frisbee golf course, swimming pool, corn hole set, ping-pong and air hockey table, and picnic area).

The campground host also offers arts and crafts workshops on Saturdays, says owner Ed Hermsen. “She hosts a party for holidays like Christmas and Easter, as well,” he notes.

There’s plenty for parents to love, too. The RV pads are equipped with full hookups, for instance. Plus, Hermsen just finished outfitting the campground office with a new laundry room and is working on adding an extra bathhouse. Even better, the RV park is less than an hour’s drive to family-friendly attractions like the Greenville Zoo and The Children’s Museum of the Upstate.

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Whitewater RV Park Benton,

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Best For: Paddlers

APRIL 2024 |
LEFT: WHITEWATER RV PARK IS EQUIPPED WITH FULL-SERVICE RV SITES. PHOTO COURTESY OF WHITEWATER RV PARK RIGHT: PADDLE THE OCOEE RIVER DURING YOUR TIME AT WHITEWATER RV PARK. PHOTO COURTESY OF NANTAHALA OUTDOOR CENTER

If you’re a dirtbag paddler looking to park your rig and rest your head, look no further than Whitewater RV Park.

Set just outside Cherokee National Forest in southeast Tennessee, the year-round campground is less than a 10-minute drive to the Ocoee River, an epic waterway packed with heart-racing rapids as well as sections of calm flatwater suitable for lazy afternoons of tubing.

“We are also half a mile from Parksville Lake,” adds host Justin Shigley.

At 1,930 acres, Parksville Lake is a destination in and of itself. You can bring your motorboat and go fishing. Or, you can bring a picnic and spend the day swimming at Mac Point Beach.

When you’re done splishing and splashing, retire to one of the campground’s 24 full-service RV sites and roast hotdogs and s’mores on the fire pit. If you want to skip the skewers and sticky fingers, grab some grub at the on-site café or ice cream shop instead.

Other perks include air-conditioned and heated restrooms, laundry facilities, free WiFi, a dog park, and security gates. “Amenities are being added constantly,” says Shigley.

32 BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS
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Pisgah Forest RV Park and Campground

Penrose, N.C.

Best For: Mountain Bikers

APRIL 2024 | BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COM 35
LEFT: PISGAH FOREST RV PARK AND CAMPGROUND IS DESIGNED FOR OUTDOOR ENTHUSIASTS. PHOTO COURTESY OF PISGAH FOREST RV PARK AND CAMPGROUND RIGHT: ENJOY SCREAMINGLY FAST FLOW AT RIDE ROCK CREEK. PHOTO COURTESY OF RIDE ROCK CREEK

Pisgah Forest RV Park and Campground isn’t fancy. You’ll find lightning-fast WiFi and full hookups, sure. But there’s no shiny rec room or state-of-the-art business center. And that was very much on purpose, says owner Brian Zmich.

“We don’t have a lot of amenities at the campground,” he explains. “We did that because we want people to come and enjoy nature—to get out and explore.”

Luckily, the park’s location makes that easy. Situated in a tiny mountain community called Penrose, the campground is less than 10 minutes from Pisgah National Forest and DuPont State Recreational Forest. The campground is also close to Ride Kanuga and Ride Rock Creek, two iconic downhill bike parks. Put together, these recreation areas boast some of the finest singletrack in the Southeast.

Of course, if you aren’t much for cycling, there’s plenty more to do. The campground is only five miles from Oskar Blues Brewery. Drive a little further into Brevard, and you’ll find a smorgasbord of dining and shopping options, too.

“The location is perfect because of the proximity to all of the outdoor adventures and great restaurants and breweries,” says Zmich. “The proximity sets us apart.”

36 BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS
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PHOTO COURTESY OF PISGAH FOREST RV PARK AND CAMPGROUND A world of outdoor adventure awaits in Florida’s Capital City. Lakes, rivers, and springs provide endless opportunities for paddlers to discover, and with over 700 miles of hiking, biking, and wildlife viewing trails, you’ll never run out of family-friendly adventures in Tallahassee.

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Charlotte. Stroll through a perennial oasis made for stopping and smelling the flowers. The Queen City’s breathtaking places and friendly faces welcome you with open arms – and hearts. This urban escape is the perfect retreat for you to finally exhale. Plan your trip at charlottesgotalot.com ORCHID CONSERVATORY AT DANIEL STOWE BOTANICAL GARDEN
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TheGoOutside andPlay

Guide

As spring unfurls its vibrant colors across the Blue Ridge Region, it beckons adventurers to explore its scenic wonders and charming towns. It’s the perfect time to embark on the listed itineraries, each offering unique experiences that capture the essence of the season. Whether savoring unique culinary delights, paddling rushing rivers, or wandering along blooming trails, embrace the beauty of spring as you traverse the region’s picturesque landscapes and historic locales.

A DAY IN… HAMPTON, VA

Coastal Virginia’s adventure capital beckons intrepid seekers of freedom and fun to Go Beyond Familiar. Whether embarking on exciting boating and fishing expeditions across Chesapeake Bay, or traveling through 400 years of American history at Fort Monroe National Monument, Hampton welcomes you to plan your perfect day of play!

MORNING

Watch in wonder as the world wakes up over the brilliant blue waters of Buckroe Beach. Spot the elusive creatures which make their home in Sandy Bottom Nature Park, a reclaimed garbage dump turned 456-acre playground. Sip an espresso at a quaint coffee shop and feast on the moment.

AFTERNOON

Go back in time to “Freedom’s Fortress,” Fort Monroe National Monument , which played a pivotal role in America’s story. Play with the inviting sunshine and welcoming waves

at Buckroe and Outlook Beach . Savor and stroll as you explore delightful downtown Phoebus ’ dining and shopping scene.

EVENING

Take in the nightlife with dinner and drinks in downtown Phoebus, and pair a fun cocktail with a comfort food favorite. Stare at the splendor of the setting sun at the world’s greatest natural harbor, where fresh seafood and sweet dreams await at The Landing on the waterfront.

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LOCAL TIP

Climb aboard the Hampton Queen and get the best seat in town for basking in the beauty of Chesapeake Bay.

40 BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS - PARTNER CONTENT -

A WEEKEND IN… SOSI, VA

From kayaking on the river, biking many award-winning trails, playing a round of disc golf, or taking a stroll in the park, Visit SoSi offers SO many opportunities to get outside! You don’t need to venture far to spot a river for tubing, a park for skateboarding, or trail for hiking in Danville City and Pittsylvania County. So, what are you waiting for? Visit SoSi!

DAY ONE

Start your weekend in the city at Ruben’s Restaurant, a family friendly diner with excellent breakfast options. Then, pack up the whole family and head to Ballou Park, where you will find picnic areas, tennis courts, and a disc golf course!

Fuel up at Dell’Anno’s Pizza Kitchen, which has two locations - one in Pittsylvania County, and the other in Danville. Delicious pizza, pasta, and sub options await to please your palette! Prepare for a day outside at Moss Mountain Outfitters, where you can purchase hiking, camping, and water sports gear.

Enjoy a scenic sunset stroll along the Dan River on the Riverwalk Trail before dining at King Cropp Kitchen. Indulge in their fresh seasonal menu, ideal for post-adventure relaxation. Then, visit Ballad Brewing for local craft beer and live music, or savor delectable desserts at Ma’s Cakes Experience boutique charm and luxury at the Holbrook Hotel in the Old West End Historic District!

DAY TWO

Explore the county and start your day at The Pod in Gretna, a coffee shop with breakfast options and seasonal lattes. Then, gear up for a morning of fishing at Lake Burton, a 76-acre reservoir home

to various species like largemouth bass, bluegill, and channel catfish.

Discover local art in the gallery at The Artist Way Café, while you chow down on sandwiches and desserts. Or, savor the beautiful scenery of the region

at Homeplace Vineyard, while sipping on award-winning wine.

Before the sun sets, venture to Wayside Park, spanning 50 acres with amenities like a playground, pickleball courts, pavilion, and picturesque views

of Sycamore Creek and the iconic LOVE Sign. Indulge in hand-cut grilled steaks and fresh seafood at J&T’s on the Main in Chatham, then immerse yourself in the town’s rich history and warm hospitality!

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Your trip to SoSi would not be complete without visiting Callands Coffee in Chatham! This cafe features locally roasted coffee within a historic downtown setting.

A DAY IN… GRANT COUNTY, WV

Situated in the heart of the Potomac Highlands region of West Virginia, you will discover the untamed, stunningly beautiful mountain village of Petersburg. Surrounded by the Monongahela National Forest, this area teems with boundless outdoor escapades awaiting discovery, while its warm-hearted locals eagerly welcome visitors, graciously sharing the splendor of their mountain abode

MORNING

As dawn breaks, avid fishermen eagerly awaken to embark on their journey to The North Fork of the Potomac River, coursing through the scenic Grant County, renowned for offering unparalleled trout fishing experiences in the entire state. For those seeking a delightful morning indulgence, be sure to visit The Grove Cafe & Bakery nestled in the heart of downtown Petersburg, serving up exquisite coffee and delectable treats to kickstart your day with joy.

AFTERNOON

The beautiful and unique Smoke Hole Canyon Recreation Area is a mecca for hikers, bikers, climbers, fishermen, paddlers, and tubers. Traversing the

western rim of the canyon, the North Fork Mountain Trail offers breathtaking vistas, while the South Branch of the Potomac River meanders through Smoke Hole, providing boundless opportunities for aquatic pursuits and water sports enthusiasts.

EVENING

The newly renovated Hermitage Inn & Taphouse is a favorite for travelers in downtown Petersburg. The North Fork Mountain Inn is located right in the heart of Smoke Hole Canyon offering fine dining, and a unique, rustic bed & breakfast experience. If you want to be right on the river, Harman’s Luxury Cabins are the perfect spot.

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Looking to check something off your bucket list? Check out the Eastern Soaring Center at the Grant County Airport for an aerial glider tour that will take your breath away!

A DAY IN… THE OCOEE RIVER CORRIDOR, TN

Nestled in beautiful Southeastern Tennessee and an easy ride from Atlanta, Chattanooga, or Knoxville, the Ocoee River is America’s favorite whitewater rafting river. With rafting opportunities perfect for first-timers, The Ocoee River is a fantastic destination for families, friends and couples looking for easy-to-reach adventure.

MORNING

Start your day off strolling through historic downtown McCaysville and Copperhill for a latte and a pastry before you drive 40 minutes to the Ocoee River. You can also get a photo standing on the state line between Tennessee and Georgia! Then, stretch your legs at Benton Falls, one one of the most popular waterfall hikes in the area.

AFTERNOON

The height of your day trip is here - it’s time to hop on the river! Take your group rafting on America’s best white water— the Middle Ocoee River! These rapids are exciting for all adventurers 12 and older. If you have younger kids, you can also tube

the Lower Ocoee River for a fun and relaxing afternoon on the current. With 23 expert outfitters to choose from, there are plenty of options to get on the river!

EVENING

Once you’re off the river, you can grab a post-river beer and some food at one of the welcoming and unique restaurants in the Corridor. Then, drive up to the Chilhowee Mountain Overlook for some stunning golden hour views before you rest your head at one of the cozy cabins or lodges you can find nestled in the trees along the Corridor.

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UNUSUAL FACT

The Ocoee River, the sole Olympic river in the US, hosted the 1996 Atlanta Olympics Kayak and Canoe Slalom. Despite the Ocoee Whitewater Center burning down in 2022, visitors can still explore the site, hike the area, and enjoy thrilling rafting or serene swimming holes.

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A WEEKEND IN…

RANDOLPH COUNTY, WV

Embark on an outdoor adventure during your 2-night escape in Randolph County. Discover authentic experiences amid breathtaking waterfalls, meandering bike trails, and delectable dining options to energize your outdoor excursion. MORNING

DAY ONE

Start your day with a latte from TipTop, then swing by Scotties Diner for a hearty breakfast.

Before you set off, visit the Elkins Depot Welcome Center for maps and info, and check out the nearby Allegheny Highlands Trail Trailhead. Need biking gear? Joey’s Bike Shop has you covered!

AFTERNOON

Grab lunch from The Crossing Coffee Bar and set off on an epic biking adventure! Explore ten routes, like the scenic Clifton Run Loop or the epic Remote Gravel Road Backpacking Loop. Enjoy family time on the 24.5-mile Allegheny

Highlands Trail , steeped in railway history. Mountain bikers, check out the IMBA-recognized Mower Basin Trails , offering 12 miles of diverse single-track paths for all skill levels.

After your biking adventure, return to Elkins for a leisurely stroll and shopping in the charming downtown area. Treat yourself to an award-winning donut from Byrd’s House of Donuts , then explore Artists At Work , a collaborative gallery highlighting regional artists’ diverse creations, from pottery to artisan jewelry. End your day with authentic Venezuelan cuisine at El Gran Sabor , accompanied by live music on Wednesdays and Fridays as you sip on a refreshing margarita.

DAY TWO

Fuel up with a latte and hearty breakfast at Great Harvest Baking. Then, head to Kumbrabow State Forest via Route 219 South, where you’ll find picturesque hiking trails and Mill Creek Falls, a gem of the West Virginia Waterfall Trail. Dive into nature with a hike or bike ride, exploring the enchanting forest trails that surround you.

Return to Beverly, a captivating repository of West Virginia’s rich history. Wander through the charming historic downtown with a self-guided tour brochure available at the Beverly Heritage Center. Immerse yourself in the tales of Randolph County’s past and culture, and don’t miss the opportunity to browse the numerous antique shops scattered throughout the town, each offering its own unique treasures.

MORNEVENING

Delve into the immersive Escape Room at the 1841 Randolph County Jail. Treat yourself to down-home cooking at The Southern Kitchen or vibrant Mexican flavors at Mia Fiesta in Beverly before ending your evening at the award-winning Big Timber Brewing Company

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LOCAL TIP!

Randolph County boasts diverse lodging, catering to all tastes. Whether you prefer historic charm at the Tygart Hotel or a cozy mountainside retreat like Chanterelle Tiny House, you’ll find the perfect accommodation for your stay!

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THE TRAILS AT FILES CREEK CABIN

A DAY IN… VIRGINIA’S BLUE RIDGE

With over 1,000 miles of trails for hiking, biking, and paddling, the Roanoke Region in Virginia’s Blue Ridge offers a metro mountain adventure. Virginia’s Blue Ridge consists of the City of Roanoke and surrounding communities within an hour radius, including the City of Salem, Botetourt County, Franklin County, and Roanoke County.

MORNING

In Roanoke’s vibrant Wasena Neighborhood, start your day with a visit to RND Coffee & Kind Baking Co. for a delicious caffeine fix and tasty treats. Then, head over to Roanoke Mountain Adventures, just a short walk away, where you can rent bikes and join guided tours to explore the scenic surroundings.

or savor mouthwatering barbecue delights at Three Li’l Pigs BBQ

EVENING

AFTERNOON

Embark on an afternoon adventure paddling along the Upper James River Water Trail with Twin River Outfitters . Afterward, unwind and enjoy a relaxing meal at Foot of the Mountain Café . Then, indulge in a wine tasting experience at Stoney Brook Vineyards

As night descends, explore the vibrant Downtown Salem scene. Start with a visit to Olde Salem Brewing Company for craft brews, followed by dinner options at Mac & Bob’s , Brood Restaurant & Bar , or Frankie Rowland’s Steakhouse . Alternatively, catch a Salem Red Sox Baseball game, with the season starting in April. Finally, relax at Downtown Salem’s boutique hotels like The Rowland Hotel or The Lofts at Downtown Salem for a cozy night’s sleep.

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Happy Hollow Gardens in Roanoke County offers a delightful opportunity for a leisurely stroll amidst stunning springtime blooms, including vibrant azaleas that paint the landscape in April.

A DAY IN… MARION COUNTY, WV

Welcome to Marion County — the Middle of Everywhere. Bursting with local cuisine, endless outdoor opportunities and rich history, Marion County is an exciting destination and a convenient stopping point on any road trip.

MORNING

Kick-start your day with a hearty breakfast at McAteer’s Restaurant, and savor a freshly brewed coffee from The Joe to fuel your adventures. Explore the rich history of the region by visiting the Marion County Historical Society Museum & Jail and Pricketts Fort State Park, both opening their doors at 10 a.m., offering fascinating insights into the area’s storied past.

AFTERNOON

Indulge in Marion County culinary classics like Mikey C’s Cuisine or The Poky Dot, then delve into a world of unique treasures with an afternoon dedicated to antiquing. Don’t miss the chance to browse the eclectic offerings at the Arts & Antiques Marketplace in Fairmont! Round off your afternoon at Coal Country Miniature Golf,

where you can enjoy an eighteen-hole course with a captivating coal mining theme.

EVENING

For dinner, treat your taste buds to a tasty Italian meal at Muriale’s Italian Kitchen, or enjoy a West Virginia classic — a pepperoni roll from Colasessano’s Pizza Immerse yourself in the vibrant local music scene every Saturday night at Sagebrush Round-Up, home to West Virginia’s Country Music Hall of Fame. And before you leave, make sure to snap a memorable selfie in front of the iconic oversized acoustic guitar!

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With an expansive network of trails ranging from easy to difficult and four picturesque waterfalls, Valley Falls State Park is the perfect spring destination.

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A WEEKEND IN… BRISTOL, TN/VA

Spring is blooming in Bristol, making it the ideal time for your next adventure. This charming city straddles both Tennessee and Virginia, offering a unique blend of culture and cuisine. Explore a plethora of locally-owned restaurants and hotels, each promising unforgettable experiences that capture the essence of Bristol’s vibrant spirit.

DAY ONE

Start your day with some fantastic bagels from Bristol Bagel in downtown Bristol.

The choices are many, the food is homemade, and there’s no chance you’ll leave hungry.

Then check out downtown Bristol, where you can explore a variety of attractions and activities like the Bristol Sign !

Grab lunch at Bistro on the 6th, which features a regionally sourced, farm-to-table inspired menu with Southern roots, or Eatz, home cooking at its finest, where the fried chicken, meatloaf, and catfish are in high demand.

If you have room for dessert, don’t miss Southern Churn, offering hand-churned fudge, ice cream, classic candies, and oldfashioned sodas. Then, return to The Bristol, recognized as one of Travel and Leisure’s Top 10 hotels in the U.S., for a restful stay. Indulge in a meal at Vivian’s Table, or venture down the street to Union 41 for a culinary experience that will elevate your trip. To cap your evening, visit Michael Waltrip Brewing, Cascade Draft House, or Lost State Distilling to enjoy your favorite beverage.

Award-winning Ridgewood Barbeque is the pride of the region, and if you love BBQ, it is an absolute must!

DAY TWO

Bloom is the perfect spot to kick off your morning with yummy biscuits and gravy, a burrito, omelet, or quiche.

After enjoying a trip to the Birthplace of Country Music Museum or Bristol Motor Speedway, grab lunch at any

number of locally owned jewels, including Delta Blues, Stateline Bar & Grille, or Bristol Café & Market, then enjoy a sweet treat from Blackbird Bakery

After some shopping at The Pinnacle, dinner at 620 State, Mad Greek, or Machiavelli’s would hit the spot, but you can also enjoy Aubrey’s, Walk-ons, Drakes, Outback, Buddy’s BBQ, Chicken Salad Chick, and more at The Pinnacle. Other hotels to consider are

The Sessions in downtown Bristol, where you can feast at Southern Craft, and Nicewonder Farm and Vineyards, where you can stay and treat yourself to fine dining at Hickory. Additional hotel options include Delta, Courtyard, Hilton Garden Inn at Exit 7, Fairfield Inn and Hampton Inn at Exit 74, and gorgeous Airbnb lofts in downtown Bristol or cabins near South Holston Lake.

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A DAY IN… STAUNTON, VA

What could be better than a quaint downtown within close proximity to a National Park and endless outdoor adventure? Ideally nestled between the scenic Blue Ridge and Allegheny Mountains, in the heart of Virginia’s Shenandoah Valley, Staunton is the perfect base for exploring Virginia’s great outdoors.

MORNING

A DAY IN…

Treat your tastebuds with a morning at By & By Café or have a savory start to your day at Kathy’s Restaurant. Then take the whole family to Montgomery Hall Park, where the Nature Ridge Natural Playground encourages creativity and imaginative play for children 2-12 years of age. Adults can delight in hiking and biking trails, tennis courts, and even a disc golf course!

AFTERNOON

When you need to refuel, Wright’s Dairy Rite or Shenandoah Pizza are great goto’s. If the family is looking for a tasty treat, Split Banana has you covered! Resume play at Gypsy Hill Park, where visitors can feed the ducks and kids can ride the Gypsy Express mini train.

EVENING

Spend your evening strolling Downtown Staunton and get acquainted with the six historic districts On weekends April through October, the Shop & Dine Out program cordons off Beverley Street to vehicular traffic and it becomes a pedestrian paradise. Enjoy a savory meal at Remedy Burger or Depot Grille , and shop at Pufferbellies or Latitudes Fair Trade Store Enjoy a memorable stay at historic Hotel 24 South , built in 1924 and conveniently located downtown.

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Step aboard the Virginia Scenic Railway and experience the charm of rail travel as you glide through picturesque landscapes and immerse yourself in the storied beauty of Virginia’s countryside.

DOWNTOWN HOPEWELL, VA

Located at the confluence of the Appomattox and James rivers, the City of Hopewell offers a mix of entertainment options, outdoor recreation, historic sites, family-friendly amenities, and great local dining. Downtown Hopewell is Accredited with Main Street America due to its character and the significant revitalization efforts taking place. Come see for yourself why Downtown is the place “where friends and rivers meet” on the 5&Dime.

MORNING

Grab coffee from the Brew & Blossom cart in Artisan Alley and meander down to City Park . From here, access the mile-long Hopewell Riverwalk , which offers breathtaking views. If you are an avid birder, angler, or yogi, pack your binoculars, rod, or mat. There is an epic playground nearby for the kids too!

AFTERNOON

You won’t have to worry about muddy paws after the park, if your pet is part of the family. Drop Fido off at Downtown Pups to get cleaned up while you grab lunch at Waves Sandwich Company, City Point Ice Cream & Burgers, or Saucy’s Sit Down Bar.B.Q

EVENING

Enjoy happy hour or fine dining in a modern yet relaxed atmosphere on the riverfront patio at the Boathouse at City Point. After dinner, head to a show at the historic Beacon Theatre or if it’s a Thursday, head Downtown to catch local talent while shopping homegrown and handmade products at the Hopewell Farmers Market

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LOCAL TIP!

“Paddle in Your Park” on April 27th and Hopewell Rivers & Roads Festival on September 6th and 7th are great weekends to plan a visit to Downtown Hopewell.

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A WEEKEND IN…

LAUREL HIGHLANDS, PA

The Laurel Highlands of Southwestern Pennsylvania is an amazing year-round outdoor playground. Whether you’re into whitewater rafting, hiking, biking or skiing – downhill or cross country – adventure is always in season! At the end of the day, visit one of the 52 craftbeverage makers for a tasty nightcap.

DAY ONE

Bask in a breathtaking sunrise at the Baughman Rock Overlook . Located 1,700 feet above the Youghiogheny River Gorge, this is one of the best, and most accessible, views in Pennsylvania.

Find a farm-to-table breakfast at Bittersweet Café , then head to Ohiopyle Trading Post & River Tours for a trip down the Youghiogheny River. Enjoy a family friendly float down the Middle Yough, an intermediate level challenge on the Lower Yough, or get wet and wild with an Upper Yough adventure!

Grab lunch from Falls Market Restaurant and walk across the street for a picnic above Ohiopyle Falls. Then opt for a family friendly hike on the Ferncliff Peninsula Trail, or tackle the opening section of the Laurel Highlands Hiking Trail for a 3.5-mile roundtrip trek to the Youghiogheny River Overlook.

Indulge in a delightful dinner at Falls City Pub, followed by a nightcap at Christian W. Klay Winery to savor the evening. Extend the excitement with a stay at the charming Treehouse at Fernstone Retreat, where your adventure continues amidst nature’s embrace.

DAY TWO

Get a jump on the day with breakfast at Ohiopyle Bakery and Sandwich Shoppe, then visit two of Somerset County’s 10 iconic covered bridges, King’s Bridge and Barronvale Bridge, on your drive to Meyersdale. Call ahead to drop your car at Yoder’s Guest House and arrange for transportation of you and your bikes back to Ohiopyle.

Hop on the Allegheny Passage, which USA Today readers chose as one of the top 10 recreational trails in America, for a gorgeous 40-mile bike ride along the Youghiogheny and Casselman rivers to Meyersdale. Be sure to stop for lunch at the River’s Edge Café in Confluence and a craft beverage at Trailhead Brewing Co. in Rockwood.

Find out why Tall Pines Distillery bills itself as a “different class of hillbilly,” with dinner at the saloon, and a cocktail made by the folks who distilled the first legal moonshine in Somerset County since Prohibition. Retire to Yoder’s Guest House for a great night’s sleep in Meyersdale.

Frank Lloyd Wright’s “Fallingwater”, the UNESCO World Heritage site built over a waterfall, is the most famous of four Wright properties in the region and draws visitors from across the globe.

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A DAY IN… SMYTH COUNTY, VA

Where else can you discover the five highest peaks in Virginia, alongside miles of the Appalachian Trail, and encounter the warmest hospitality in Southwest Virginia? Look no further than Smyth County, Virginia, where you can embrace the Five over 5000 hiking challenge and create cherished memories to last a lifetime!

MORNING

Gear up for all your hiking needs at Marion Outdoors

Gear and Resupply or Blue Ridge

Outfitters before you hit the trails! Fuel up for your hikes each morning with a hot, country-style breakfast at the Farmhouse Market or coffee and homemade doughnuts at Better Coffee Company

AFTERNOON

Immerse yourself in a day of conquering the Five over 5000 hiking challenge while basking in the splendor of Southwest Virginia’s seasonal beauty. Encounter a plethora of unique flora and fauna, along with a variety of birds and wildlife,

providing hikers and naturalists alike with endless opportunities for observation.

EVENING

After a day in nature, dine at Wooden Pickle Food and Spirits or catch a show at the historic Lincoln Theatre. Savor a burger at Coach’s Diner and indulge in ice cream from Market on West Main Numerous locally owned restaurants await your exploration! Recharge at cozy Airbnbs like The Lucille or The Houston in Sugar Grove, or at Marion’s hiker hostel, Merry Inn

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Visit the H.L. Bonham Tourism Center, managed by the Smyth County Chamber of Commerce, for Five over 5000 swag items, free to Challenge completers! Get official stickers and completion pins while exploring scenic Smyth County.

A DAY IN… FRANKLIN COUNTY, VA

Embark on a journey through the foothills for an authentic Mountain to Lake experience in Franklin County. Immerse yourself in the area’s rich history and traditions as you begin your MetroMountain Adventure in Virginia’s Blue Ridge!

MORNING

Start your stay in a waterfront rental at Smith Mountain Lake before picking up a tasty breakfast from Bagel & I. Head back to the lake to meet up with your fishing charter crew and set out on an unforgettable angling adventure. When you’ve caught enough fish, grab some lunch and have a shopping spree at Bridgewater Plaza

AFTERNOON

As the day winds down, indulge in a picturesque lakeside stroll at Smith Mountain Lake Community Park. For added excitement, test your skills with axe throwing at Hot Shots Bar & Grill!

EVENING

Venture into Rocky Mount at the end of your day to reserve a cozy room at Claiborne Bed & Breakfast. For dinner, head to Olde Towne Social House for small plates and a wine bar before moving downstairs to The Alley Cat to enjoy a pub-like atmosphere, live music, and a moonshine-themed museum! If you are looking for more, check out the shows playing at the Harvester Performance Center for a culture-filled evening.

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Step into history at the Booker T. Washington National Monument, a 207-acre tobacco farm where the renowned educator and leader Booker T. Washington was born on April 5, 1856.

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A WEEKEND IN…

PRINCE WILLIAM, VA

Discover the allure of Prince William County, Virginia, a vibrant destination blending history, nature, and modern charm. Just outside Washington, D.C., this dynamic region offers an array of experiences, from exploring Civil War sites to enjoying outdoor adventures and cultural attractions.

DAY ONE

MORNING

Start your morning with a hearty breakfast at Montclair Family Restaurant, where you can fuel up for the day ahead. Then, head to Prince William Forest Park for a morning of outdoor adventure. Explore the park’s trails, take a scenic hike, or enjoy a leisurely stroll amidst nature’s beauty. With its serene atmosphere and lush landscapes, the park offers the perfect setting to start your day on a refreshing note.

AFTERNOON

Indulge in a delicious lunch at Out of the Blue Crabs and Seafood, where you can savor fresh seafood delights and unwind in a casual atmosphere. After

lunch, tee off for an afternoon of golf at Stonewall Golf to enjoy a challenging round amidst scenic views and well-manicured greens.

EVENING

Enjoy a delightful dinner at Red House Tavern, where you can savor delicious dishes and unwind in a cozy ambiance. After dinner, retire for the night at Hilton Garden Inn Haymarket to relax and rejuvenate in comfortable accommodations.

DAY TWO

MORNING

Start your morning with a mouthwatering dish from My Cravingz, then head to Manassas National Battlefield Park for a morning of exploration

and discovery. Immerse yourself in the history of the Civil War as you stroll through the park’s historic sites, scenic trails, and informative visitor center.

AFTERNOON

For your afternoon adventure, savor delicious cuisine in a charming setting at Battle Street Bistro. Afterward, immerse yourself

in the local flavors on the Steins, Vines, and Moonshine Trail, where you can enjoy tastings of craft beers, fine wines, and artisanal moonshine, and listen to live music.

MORNEVENING

For a memorable evening, dine at the Black Sheep Restaurant, where you can enjoy exquisite

cuisine and unwind from your weekend of adventure. Whether you prefer to sleep under the stars or enjoy the comforts of your RV, camping in the area offers a peaceful and immersive experience in nature, perfect for winding down after a day of exploration.

HIDDEN GEM

Situated along the Occoquan River, the historic mill town of Occoquan invites guests to explore over 100 art, antique, and specialty shops and dining establishments. The Spring and Fall Arts and Crafts Shows draw in crowds of thousands annually.

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A DAY IN… NEWPORT NEWS, VA

Newport News, the sixth most populous city in the Commonwealth, offers a dynamic blend of land and water across its 120 square miles. Explore its captivating history dating back to the 17th century at local attractions, or immerse yourself in abundant greenspaces and water activities for outdoor enthusiasts to enjoy!

MORNING

Upon arrival in Newport News, enjoy a stroll along Huntington Park Beach at the James River Bridge or explore Newport News Park’s 7,711-acre expanse in the northern end of the city. With activities ranging from cycling and boating to golfing and fishing, the park offers a plethora of recreational opportunities. Don’t miss the Hilton Village Farmers Market on Saturday mornings in Historic Hilton Village, and for coffee and breakfast, visit Nest Kitchen & Taphouse, Cure Coffeehouse, or The Captain’s Den

AFTERNOON

Spend the afternoon immersed in history and culture! Visit The Mariners’ Museum, one of the largest maritime museums in North America, with $1 admission. Explore the Virginia Living Museum to see red wolves and other species, then delve

into military history at the Virginia War Museum. Don’t miss the Mary M. Torggler Fine Arts Center at Christopher Newport University, showcasing diverse art in its 83,000 sq. ft. space.

EVENING

Because Newport News is surrounded by water, it has the most spectacular sunsets. Choose from one of 30 local parks or find a spot on the water to watch day turn to night. Cap off your day with a locally crafted adult beverage or purchase one from Ironclad Distillery, and then indulge in a GIGANTIC slice of pizza at Benny Cantiere’s before camping at Newport News Park, with bike rentals available.

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UNUSUAL FACT

Newport News Park has an aero-model flying field for radio controllers. A paved 400-foot runway and 30-acre fly-over area allow spacious clearance for the perfect landing.

A DAY IN… DAWSONVILLE, GA

Head down to Georgia’s Appalachian mountains to discover a world of outdoor fun and thrilling adventure. Nestled in this picturesque landscape, Dawsonville beckons as an ideal destination for a memorable day-trip, boasting an abundance of invigorating hikes, thrilling activities, and family-friendly entertainment sure to delight all who visit.

MORNING

Start off your northern Georgia adventure with a hearty breakfast at family-owned Papa’s Place, then venture to Etowah Valley Sporting Clays. Here, beginners and serious sport shooting enthusiasts have numerous ways to clay, skeet, trap, and five-stand shoot, with an onsite staff of veteran clay shooters. Take to the field with British Hunts through Etowah Valley Game Preserve, available to individuals and groups.

AFTERNOON

After some quality shootin’, grab a famous Bully Burger and Fresh Cuts at the Dawsonville Pool Room before heading to race karts at Atlanta Motorsports Park

The 2-mile F1-designed circuit and .85-mile pro kart tracks welcome the public for race viewing, kart racing leagues, racing schools, and car handling experiences!

EVENING

Indulge in serenity at Amicalola Falls State Park and Lodge, where sweeping vistas of the Appalachian Mountains await. Savor a moment of tranquility with a glass of wine beside the mountaintop fire pit, before retiring for the night to one of the cozy rooms, ensuring a restful end to your day.

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HIDDEN GEM

Explore the largest folk art gallery in the South at “Around Back at Rocky’s Place Folk Art”, and bring back a piece of Appalachian culture as a reminder of your experience.

50

OCONEE RIVER

A WEEKEND IN…

MILLEDGEVILLE, GA

Founded in 1803, Milledgeville once served as the capital of Georgia. Today this charming southern town boasts a hip college vibe with an eclectic mix of wilderness with the rushing waters of the Oconee River, vast water of Lake Sinclair and towering trees of Bartram Forest.

DAY ONE

Start the day like a local with breakfast at Local Yolkal , and try their award-winning eggs benedict. Crack on with 8.8 miles of pure hiking at Bartram Forest . The Bartram Trail offers an immersed nature experience for all skill levels, and is accessible year-round! Snap some pictures from the outlooks over the pond, which provides a beautiful backdrop no matter what time of year.

Try some sushi at Kai Thai for a tasty afternoon lunch before hitting the water. Lake Sinclair’s 15,300 acres offers endless entertainment, so rent

a boat and get out there! With the sunny spring weather, you will find watercrafts of all shapes and sizes on the lake for you to enjoy during your getaway. The warmth of the sun on your skin will have you and the kids ready for a refreshing dip in the water, a thrilling water ski ride, or a peaceful fishing experience.

Dock the boat for a delectable dinner at Taylors Cove, and recharge while enjoying a peaceful lake atmosphere. Whether you are planning a family vacation or a getaway with friends, the vacation homes at Lake Sinclair have plenty of space for everyone in your group. The fresh air and warming temperatures of spring have everyone ready to escape on a water vacation.

DAY TWO

Fill up with breakfast and a coffee at Blackbird Coffee, where the beans are roasted in house. Start the day with some shopping downtown, and walk the historic district. On Milledgeville’s famous self-guided walking tour you will be immersed in the beautiful architecture of over 40 Antebellum homes and history-filled stories. You’ll stroll past sites like Statehouse Square–the highest point in the city reserved for the Old Capitol Building

Sit outside and enjoy some tacos at Bollywood Tacos, and get ready for another water adventure! Kayak the Oconee River, or check out the Oconee River Greenway, where you can bike, hike and fish from one of the multiple fishing stations. Take in the sights and sounds of the native bird and plant life as you relax on or near the water.

After a long weekend of adventure, the steak and seafood at Reel Grill are calling

your name. After satiating yourself, continue your evening by going bar hopping and listening to some live music. When you’re ready to call it quits for the night, walk to your room conveniently located downtown, at the Inn on North Jefferson

If it is a Friday or Saturday morning, hop aboard the town’s most iconic resident “Milly the Trolley” for a fully narrated tour of Milledgeville’s historic district!

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A DAY IN… WAYNESBORO, VA

You already know about Waynesboro’s prime urban trout fishing and the legendary Blue Ridge Tunnel. Well, get ready to ‘live like a local’ because this guide is going to take you to some of Waynesboro’s coolest spots you don’t know about for a vibe that’s all about basking in the best of this awesome city.

MORNING

Rise and shine with breakfast at Crack O’ Dawn, Waynesboro’s dedicated gluten-free bakery and bistro where delicious treats like kolaches and biscuits and gravy are the perfect start to your adventure-filled day. Drive just a few short miles to the top of the Blue Ridge Mountains and take a hike on the famous Appalachian Trail in Shenandoah National Park or go for a scenic drive on the Blue Ridge Parkway

AFTERNOON

Enjoy a leisurely walk along Waynesboro’s 2-mile Greenway , leading to North Park for some playground fun. Treat yourself to lunch at Delly Up , famous for its TBA, then visit the

Russell Museum across the street to explore the history of Swannanoa Palace and the lives of Walter and Lao Russell. Don’t miss Waynesboro’s five other galleries and museums downtown, showcasing contemporary art and local history.

EVENING

Wrap up the day with a mouthwatering BBQ dinner at The Fishin’ Pig , followed by a night of excitement at Bottles Take a ride on the mechanical bull and play tons of games (pro tip: Sunday is family day!) for an unforgettable evening in Waynesboro!

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On your Greenway walk look for Stone Soup Books and the Blue Ridge Children’s Museum Natural Playground for extra fun!

A DAY IN… ALLEGANY COUNTY, MD

The Trail Starts Here and that is because Allegany County, the Mountain Side of Maryland, is a top trail destination. From an abundance of incredible outdoor recreational activities to amazing historic sites, dining, and entertainment venues - no matter your interest, passion, sport or idea of fun, they’ve got a trail for that.

MORNING

Grab an early breakfast and a prepackaged lunch from Oak Barrel Cafe before heading out on the Potomac River for a paddle. Along the way, you’ll encounter historical towns and landmarks, cross under the tracks of the Western Maryland Railway, and float past Green Ridge State Forest.

AFTERNOON

Stop for lunch along the C&O Canal Towpath, a 12-foot wide, nearly-level path that was built for mules to pull the canal boats from Cumberland, Md., to Georgetown. Take in the views from the county’s most spectacular overlooks on

the Green Ridge State Forest’s Scenic Driving Tour

EVENING

After a day of adventure, head to Locust Post Brewery, located on a 26-acre farmstead, for brews and a pizza dinner. Be sure to grab a disc and head out on their new Locust Post Disc Golf Course. Catch an amazing sunset from the historic Town Hill Overlook before settling in for the night at Town Hill Bed and Breakfast

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The Paw Paw Tunnel, a 19th-century engineering marvel of the C&O Canal, spans 6/10ths of a mile through a mountain with over 6 million bricks. Maintained by the National Park Service, it’s popular with hikers and bikers year-round, though a flashlight is essential for the 20-minute walk as sunlight diminishes within.

52

A DAY IN… SALEM, VA

Experience a genuine metro-mountain adventure in Salem in Virginia’s Blue Ridge. With over 1,000 miles of trails nearby, Salem is the ideal hub for fun-filled days of hiking, biking, paddling and more. Salem is located just minutes away from the famed Carvins Cove Reservoir and its network of trails. After a day of adventure, relax in downtown Salem and enjoy craft beer, great food, local history and culture.

MORNING

Begin your day with a hike on the Appalachian Trail. Salem offers easy access to the McAfee Knob and Dragon’s Tooth trailheads. The new McAfee Knob Shuttle now makes two stops in Salem, including one at The Lofts at Downtown Salem every Friday, Saturday and Sunday.

AFTERNOON

Head downtown to chow down at a great local restaurant. Popular local favorites include Mac and Bob’s Restaurant and West Salem Diner. After lunch, stroll around and check out the local shops, LOVEworks art, Farmers Market, and the beautiful Roanoke College campus.

EVENING

Ready for Happy Hour? Salem is home of two great craft breweries—Parkway Brewing Company and Olde Salem Brewing Company. If the team is in town during your visit, spend a night at the ballpark with our Salem Red Sox. Book your accommodations downtown at either The Lofts at Downtown Salem, the Rowland Hotel, or one of the wonderful hotels throughout Salem.

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UNUSUAL FACT

Did you know Salem is Virginia’s Championship City? It’s hosted nearly 100 NCAA Championships and dozens of other amateur sporting events, tournaments, and championships.

A DAY IN… HARDY COUNTY, WV

Hardy County strikes the perfect balance, inviting you for a day trip yet tempting you to linger overnight. Amidst the breathtaking Lost River Valley, a plethora of adventures awaits, enticing you to extend your stay and make countless return visits.

Café then stop in at WordPlay, an independent bookstore. Before you head to the Lost River Valley, visit Lost River Trading Post where you will find a selection of crafts, antiques, and a gallery (and more coffee if you want!).

AFTERNOON

Lost River State Park has 23 miles of trails to hike or experience on horseback with a guide from Hidden Trails Stables. If you have an afternoon ride scheduled, stop for lunch at Lost River General Store, or pick up lunch to eat on the trail. On your

EVENING

Enjoy an amazing wood-fire pizza at Lost River Pizza + Provisions . If you are staying at the park, take it back to your cabin where you can gather around the crackling fire in the quiet of the night sky filled with stars, eagerly mapping out your exciting adventures for the following day.

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See five counties in two states from Cranny Crow Overlook and be sure to take a photo at the Almost Heaven swing. Hint: Make cabin and ride reservations ahead!

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SPEAKING OF STONES

“It is the nature of stone to be satisfied...”
—Mary Oliver

ONE OF MY PASSIONS IS gathering stones. You might say it’s an obsession.

My fiancée laughs if we’re at an outdoor event and someone asks if we have a fire pit at home. “Oh, yes!” she responds. “This man’s obsessed!” Then she turns to me and says, “Tell these folks about your love of stones.”

And so I explain how, for years, I had a ritual of carrying logs up from the forest to cut and split for winter fuel, but then one hot April day when I had worry on my mind, I carried a stone instead. As I cradled the granitic gneiss like a football, the stone worked like a tonic to keep me calm and cool. After 30 walks that spring, I had 30 stones.

I’ve always been a fan of routine and chipping away to make progress every day. We see the results of consistency in running, biking, swimming, and other sports. The same applies to the gathering of stones. For months, I added one stone to a circle each time I took a walk, and soon a fire pit emerged. Over the years, I’ve come to consider the fire pit a companion—a co-worker, if you will—that helps turn fallen tree limbs into potash for tomatoes. If I’m mulling over problems or unsure what next to do in life, I gravitate to the pit. The pit is also a favored meeting place for friends to share food and wine on moonlit nights. In winter, we hold warm stones on our lap as children roast marshmallows and do a primal dance. For years, visitors referred to the pit as one of the nicest they’d ever seen, even posting pics online saying, “Take a look at this!”

Nowadays, these same folks laugh and roll their eyes at the massive cairn that continues to grow skyward with no end in sight. Some say the pit has begun to resemble a Hobbit house while others refer

to it as the "Henge" and suggest I need an intervention. I’ll admit that the pit may be a tad on the large side, that it’s become cumbersome, even dangerous, to climb inside and risk life and limb while lighting fires. Some friends joke that if I go missing for a week, my partner should check inside the pit.

And yet, I keep gathering stones when there’s no need for more because it brings me joy. Stones connect me to the earth, make me feel grounded, and the handling of stones is said to reduce stress. Carrying stones up from the forest is my favorite combination of exercise and meditation. I’m most content when I put down my phone and hold a stone.

And while I’m not an especially competitive person, stones have taught me many lessons. Once (while I was still a bachelor), I went to the house-warming party of a man who was, and still is, a huge success. He and his wife live on a beautiful property with mountain views, three well-behaved children, and a hand-crafted home. While I don’t begrudge all that my friend has achieved, I’d be lying if I didn’t admit to feeling a tinge of envy.

In fact, I was about to slip away early when my friend’s wife noticed and said, “Oh, don’t go yet, we’re about to light the bonfire.”

That’s when I went outside to get my first glimpse of the fire pit of my friend. Then I was somewhat pleased, relieved, perhaps even buoyed by jubilance and haughty pride. For all this man’s success, his pit was the pits, consisting of nine puny-looking rocks arranged in a sloppy oval. The envy I’d been feeling melted into pity for this man. And I drove off that evening, feeling as if I had won.

When I got home, I sat alone by my pit feeling proud. I rarely use that word "proud," but I can attest:

pride leads to falls. The next day I was thinking of my successful friend with his perfect life and puny pit when I climbed inside my massive folly and struck a match. Just as the newspaper and kindling were catching fire, the wind shifted and flames leapt toward my face.

As I tumbled backward and crawled to safety, I laughed at my blunder as I wondered, Have I gone too far?

In “Who makes these changes,” the great Sufi poet Rumi writes, I dig pits to trap others

And fall in.

I should be suspicious Of what I want.

Amen, brother.

Today, as I saunter about my beloved fire pit at sunrise drinking coffee, I consider the words of Confucius: “The man who moves a mountain begins by carrying away small stones.” As I set forth in the woods with singed eyebrows to fetch yet another stone, it occurs to me that the mountain I must move might just be myself

APRIL 2024 | BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COM 55
PHOTO COURTESY OF THE AUTHOR
A FAMILY RUNS THE NANTAHALA RIVER. PHOTO COURTESY OF NANTAHALA OUTDOOR CENTER

FLOAT TRIPS

These under-the-radar paddling getaways offer family-friendly river adventures without the crowds

IT’S NO SECRET THE BLUE RIDGE is home to some of the country’s most scenic rivers, and, with the popularity of outdoor recreation soaring, beginner-friendly floats at iconic destinations are drawing big crowds. But if you prefer your family getaways to be a bit more secluded, this trio of under-the-radar towns pairs beautiful, easy-access paddling trips with great stays and post-float amenities.

GALAX, VIRGINIA

The Town

This 6,600-person mountain town occupies a 2,500-foot-high plateau in far southwest Virginia, about seven miles north of the Blue Ridge Parkway. Its namesake Old Fiddler’s Convention, the nation’s longest continuously held old-time and bluegrass music festival, made it famous. But the fact that the southern terminus of 57-mile-long New River Trail State Park sits in a railroad-station-turned-publicgreenspace on the outskirts of town is our cause célèbre.

The Float

New River Outdoor Adventures is located about six miles northwest of Galax in the tiny, historic community of Fries on a waterfront lot bordering New River Trail State Park. It offers a quartet of great canoe, kayak, and tubing trips that range from two to eight hours in length and include all the equipment you need. The two-miler from Fries Park to the shop takes a couple of

hours and is great for beginners. Those looking for something more adventurous will delight in a 14.5mile paddle from the Barwood Boat Ramp in Independence to Galax’s Old Town Boat Ramp. The float meanders through sparsely populated farmland and forests and past wild islands and pebbly beaches. It features tons of wildlife viewing opportunities and fun but mild chutes and riffles. It can take up to eight hours to complete, depending on conditions. newriveroutdooradventures.com

Stay

Stay just outside of town on the wooded banks of Chestnut Creek at New River Trail Cabins. Take your pick from a dozen wellequipped, modernized log-home suites that sit within a stone’s throw of the designated rail-to-trail. newrivertrailcabins.com

Eat & Drink

A quick, three-block stroll from the cabins carries you downtown to Creek Bottom Brewing Company Tasting Room & Pub, which has a large, inviting taproom with a fullservice menu of spot-on pub fare that includes brick oven pizzas, burgers, wings, tacos, salads, and smoked brisket platters. Live music on the weekends and 26 taps of regional and house-made brews and ciders round out the package. We like the delightfully crisp and citrusy—but at 6.5% ABV, not overly boozy—D28 Hazy IPA. Cbbrews.com

APRIL 2024 | BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COM 57

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BERKELEY SPRINGS, WEST VIRGINIA

Mineral-rich thermal springs put the historic, 750-person eastern panhandle town on the map in 1747 and made it a celebrated early destination for adventurous recreators like George Washington. Find them amid a wealth of colonial and Victorian architecture in the heart of downtown at Berkeley Springs State Park, one of the only publicly owned hot springs in the U.S. Its restored 18th century bath house and manicured five-acre grounds are a can’t-miss, but for our purposes, the focus turns to nearby Cacapon River.

The Cacapon meanders north for 81 extremely rural miles through the bucolic highland hills and valleys of northeastern West Virginia to empty into the Potomac about five miles west of town. Cacapon River Outfitters offers a fleet of full-service kayaking and tubing trips on this hidden treasure that offers access to some of its prettiest scenery. The company’s 2.25-mile flagship route begins with a shuttle to a private put-in and brings ultra-clear water, densely forested banks, steep rocky cliffs, loads of fun riffles,

and beautiful gravel bars. It ends just past the Largent Bridge at the shop’s boat ramp behind the Stoney Creek Country Store.

caponriveroutfitters.com

Stay

Six-thousand-acre Cacapon

Resort State Park is located just 10 miles south of downtown Berkeley Springs. Book a room in the resort’s recently renovated, 120-room luxury lodge or upgrade to a revitalized Civil Conservations Corps era log cabin in the woods. The latter blends rustic ruggedness and modern amenities with features like hand hewn log beams, wormy chestnut plank floors and walls, vernacular stone hearths, and loft bedrooms. capaconresort.com

Eat & Drink

If you dig craft beer, Cacapon Mountain Brewing Co is a mustvisit. It’s housed in a renovated turn-of-the-century textile mill with a lovely new taproom and full-service kitchen that dishes out scrumptious burgers, wraps, and nachos. A rotating 10-brew lineup spans a surprising range that includes interesting takes on IPAs, hefeweizen, English pub ale, barley wine, Irish stout, and, our favorite, a fruited sour cherry ale aged for two years in wine barrels. All are brewed using water from the famed local mineral springs. capaconbrewing.com

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BRYSON CITY, NORTH CAROLINA

The Town

While northward ease of access has transformed Great Smoky Mountains National Park gateway towns like Gatlinburg and Pigeon Forge into tourist epicenters, Bryson City offers a great low-key alternative. It sits about an hour and a half west of Asheville, and just 13 miles from the southern terminus of the Blue Ridge Parkway, in a small, lush valley sandwiched between the national park and Nantahala National Forest. The 1,450-person town brims with old-school mountain character and is bisected by a marvelously scenic span of Tuckasegee River, which is itself met by the smaller but equally beautiful Oconaluftee about six miles east of town.

The Float

Families with small children looking for a more laidback adventure will love a three-mile tubing trip on the Oconaluftee from Smoky Mountain Tube & Raft. Catch a shuttle to a put-in a couple miles above town, then coast along a breezy, riffle-rich stretch defined by crystal clear water, densely forested banks, small boulders, drops, and gravel bars. You’ll eventually pass through town to end at Oconaluftee Island Park. cherokeetubeandraft.com

For something a bit more

exciting, the Nantahala Outdoor Center is located about 13 miles west of downtown Bryson City and offers fantastic rafting and inflatable kayaking trips on the Nantahala. The swift-moving route winds through gorgeously isolated mountain forests, brings a near-constant barrage of fun, mildly challenging class II-III rapids, and takes about three hours to complete. noc.com

Stay

The Everett Hotel sits in the heart of downtown in a beautifully restored, historic three-story red brick building that dates to 1908 and once housed the Bryson City Bank. The boutique boasts 10 spacious, lavishly outfitted suites, a wine bar, and rooftop lounge. theeveretthotel.com

Eat & Drink

The Everett is also home to a 28-seat eponymous Bistro with a farm-to-table ethos, mixologist, and Western-meets-1920sspeakeasy vibe. Expect upscale, chef-driven takes on Southernstyle staples like creole shrimp and grits or pan-seared rainbow trout. Follow dinner with brews at Bryson City Brewing’s expansive outdoor terrace, lawn, fire pit, and bar area. The brewery is housed in a sharply overhauled RC Cola Bottling plant that dates to 1924. It offers 24 beers and ciders on tap, as well as a full menu of delicious smash burgers, barbecue, wings, salads, and nachos. brysoncitybrewing.com

APRIL 2024 | BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COM 59
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Spring

A Long Walk in Charleston

Processing loss on foot in South Carolina's Historic City

THE BATTERY, ALONG THE ASHLEY RIVER. ALL PHOTOS BY THE AUTHOR

MY FEET ACHED AS I WALKED TOWARD THE

southern end of Charleston. I was moving at a steady clip along the elevated Battery, a stone seawall built in the 19th century to protect the city from storm surges and invading naval forces. On one side was the tidal channel of the Ashley River. On the other, a long line of antebellum mansions. In the distance, a hulking container ship inched out to sea.

It was a sunny afternoon, the week before Christmas. The city felt surprisingly empty, even for the winter off-season in Low Country. I’d only covered a few miles so far, but my total for the past month was over 200. Much of this mileage came during long walks around this historic peninsula, trying to take my mind off things. When my wife and I first began exploring Charleston on foot, we’d park in the free spots on Murray Boulevard, which parallels the Battery. Now I parked my truck at the university hospital, where my mom remained bedridden in worsening condition. Between wrenching morning and evening visits, I took to the streets for grueling 10-mile marches through history.

At the tip of the peninsula, I stopped as usual at White Point Garden. With a canopy of oak trees, sporadic palms, and a series of commemorative monuments, it’s one of Charleston’s most attractive parks. I made my way to a curious patch of disturbed ground. Most pedestrians pass through the park unaware that it may be part of a 40-year-old mystery.

The Hunt for a Secret

In 1982, an eccentric publisher named Byron Preiss released The Secret: A Treasure Hunt book includes linked poems and artworks offering clues to the location of twelve treasure casques buried in city parks around the U.S. Each casque contains a key that could be redeemed for a jewel from Preiss. The puzzles proved harder than expected, and only two were unearthed during his lifetime, one in Chicago’s Grant Park in 1983 and another in Cleveland’s Greek Garden in 2004.

Preiss died in a car accident in 2005 without revealing the remaining locations. Fourteen years later, a third casque was found in Boston, leaving nine unaccounted for. Some may have been destroyed or discovered without notice. Others may still be found, and Preiss’ estate claims it will honor the prize. During my walks, I noticed signs of searching in the sandy soil of White Point Garden. But it’s important to mention that digging is prohibited. Instead, I found it a welcome distraction to just ponder the clues.

“Hear the cool, clear song of water,” reads one verse, perhaps a reference to nearby fountains or the vast Charleston Harbor. Other clues come from the painting. The large lion might signify the royal crest of the English king for whom Charles Town was named when founded in 1670. Several map-like illustrations

deep breath

and exhale

APRIL 2024 | BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COM 61
in...

depict the land masses and waterways surrounding the city. One pentagonal shape closely matches a top-down outline of Fort Sumter, which was visible out in the bay.

“Beside the long palm’s shadow,” reads another line, which might refer to one of the tall sabal palmettos rising high above the park. The final line may reference the stark-white mansion of Villa Margherita, located across So. Battery Street, with fluted columns closely resembling the president’s residence in Washington, D.C.: “White house close at hand.”

After an engrossing pass through the park, I resumed my walk. North along the Battery wall and east down the cobblestone street of So. Adgers Wharf to reach Waterfront Park. Here I rested sore legs on one of the public piers offering views of grassy wetlands and the modern cable-stay bridge over the Cooper River. I had hours to go, so why rush? The reason for these exhausting sessions was that if I didn’t walk, I couldn’t sleep. I would lie awake in my motel, ruminating about my mom’s condition. Reading about rare symptoms and obscure diagnoses.

A Mysterious Illness

Three years ago, I was conducting fieldwork in the slot canyons of Arizona for my recent book Discovering the Outlaw Trail

when word came my mom wasn’t well. When I visited her in Northern California, I expected Covid but instead found her in a strangely weakened state from some unknown illness.

For a week, she became increasingly incoherent. During a monthlong hospitalization, the doctors were baffled by her bizarre state. They suggested it was time for hospice. We told them no. Since I wasn’t allowed to visit due to pandemic lockdowns, I coordinated over the phone.

At one point, an observant young resident realized she hadn’t been fed amid the chaos. After receiving an emergency feeding tube, she began to revive. Yet the mysterious condition lingered. It was something neurological but otherwise uncertain. Each time the doctors settled on a diagnosis and treatment plan, something unexpected would happen.

The result was a hellish three years of specialists, hospital stays, and nursing facilities. Midway through, my wife and I moved my mom out to live with us in South Carolina. To manage her care, I did extensive research to navigate a labyrinth of doctors' opinions. Through trial and error, we found medications that helped. She made strides at times, like ditching a walker for a cane her first month out here. We went on walks around the neighborhood, along the riverfront, to a nearby wildlife refuge. But, always, there

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PINK HOUSE, BELIEVED TO BE THE OLDEST BUILDING IN CHARLESTON.

were more downs than ups. A tremor in one hand gradually spread to all four extremities. At night, she’d sometimes yell out in distress from the shaking. She became increasingly confused and struggled to communicate.

A year ago, my mom decided she needed around-the-clock care. We moved her to a friendly assisted-living facility in an oak grove near our house. Despite new discoveries, her decline continued. In early November, we saw the most horrific development yet. She was found in the common room with every muscle in her body spasming simultaneously. The first hospital couldn’t solve the issue, nor could the second, so she was transferred by ambulance to Charleston.

Historic Sites to Walk To

From Waterfront Park, I turned into the heart of the old town. My mom has always loved historic buildings and churches, so I snapped photos to show her my discoveries. Pink House is believed to be the oldest building in the city. Located at 17 Chalmers St. in the French Quarter, it was likely constructed sometime during the 17th century. Over the years, it became a tavern, brothel, law office, art gallery, and private residence. It’s not open to the public, but the quaint cobblestone street is worth visiting.

A few doors down is the Old Slave Mart Museum, which documents the stories of enslavement, auctioning, and emancipation of African Americans in this colonial port city. Next, I backtracked south of Broad Street to see some architectural highlights that the horse-drawn carriage tours visit. Then I went north, passing under the impressive steeple of St. Philip’s Church. The next spot is the Old City Market, which extends for three blocks. Established in the late 1700s, it was originally filled with food merchants but today has mostly gift shops.

I continued west to the main commercial thoroughfare of King Street, with its many bars and restaurants. A half mile north led to Marion Square, which has lights during the holiday season. Around this point, I typically added some mileage by aiming for dinner at a downtown brewery. The closest are Rusty Bull and Charleston Beer Works, a taphouse, on King Street. That said, I’ve also trekked miles north to Palmetto Brewing and, once, all the way to local favorite Edmund's Oast.

On my way back to the hospital, I detoured through the picturesque College of Charleston, where centuries-old live oaks are draped in Spanish moss. I sat on a bench and stared up at the twisty branches. For all our advanced knowledge, so much remains

APRIL 2024 | BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COM 63
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64 BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS
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Blackwater Falls State Park

Unforgettable Steps

High above the city, on the 9th-floor neurology wing, I walked down the long hallway. I never knew what to expect upon entering my mom’s hospital room. Tonight, she was thankfully sleeping. Other times, I found her writhing in agony.

Her recurring episodes resembled seizures but were not epileptic.

The neuro team’s initial plan was to sedate her while conducting tests and researching obscure conditions. But after nearly three weeks, the doctors meekly admitted they didn’t know what was happening. Some unknown disorder not yet recognized by modern medicine. The emergency feeding tube would have to come out soon, and she was too weak to consume enough calories on her own. The next step was likely hospice.

Yet she staggered the entire length of the hallway and back. Everyone on the floor looked up. Their faces were a mix of concern, admiration, and shock at her determination.

appreciate the outside input.

We don’t believe it will work, they repeatedly said.

“Everyone’s just guessing,” I countered. “You’ve admitted you don’t know what’s happening.”

Our debate devolved into a shouting match, during which I showed them photos of my mom from the past six months. Before this latest crisis, she could eat. Walk with a cane. Have visits. Stunned by the contrast to her current state, they agreed.

This will be the last attempt, whispered a specialist who was doubtful but admitted the uncertainty. She probably has just days to weeks left.

Holiday Walks

Not everyone had given up. Most importantly, my mom continued to fight. She gasped out short responses. Tried to eat. Struggled to rise and focus on the photos I shared. The nurses and I had found small remedies to ease her discomfort, including damp cloths and giving her ice cubes. The physical therapists were the best allies.

“She will surprise you,” I said during the first week. “If you give her the chance.”

With their help, my mom had struggled to her feet. Her weight was down to maybe 90 pounds.

Each day, I carried a backpack filled with three years’ worth of health records, professional opinions, peer-reviewed articles, and notes.

Before we gave up, I rallied everyone who would listen—nurses, physical therapists, and a few receptive members of the dozen-doctor team.

There was a faint pattern to her mysterious illness. During three years of recurring downs and ups, we tried numerous medications. There was a type of brain stabilizer that helped several times. The symptoms were very different back then, but who’s to say this wasn’t a new manifestation of the same disorder? The doctors didn’t seem to

The days around the holidays were the hardest of all. I walked laps like the locals at scenic Colonial Lake, a reflecting pool surrounded by stately homes. I trudged north to Hampton Park, the largest and nicest in Charleston, with a variety of forested paths. I wandered through the castle-like campus of the Citadel. As Christmas arrived, so did the visitors and that holiday mix of cheerfulness and public meltdowns. Some families stomped down the street, openly arguing. Others meandered happily along the cobblestones.

Some evenings, I made miles across West

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THE HISTORIC BRICKS OF CHARLESTON.

Ashley, from my motel to restaurants and brewpubs. My favorite was the Germaninspired Charles Towne Fermentory. One night, I was sitting at a bar, downcast, when some friendly locals sat next to me. After learning why I was in town, they practically carried me across the street to The Roost, where they took turns cheering me up.

What increasingly haunted me during my long walks around town was no longer my mom’s incurable condition. It was the common refrain: say what you need to say before it’s too late. I spent hours thinking about these words. Yet whenever I sat with her in the hospital, I couldn’t bring myself to say them. I didn’t want to alarm her, which could trigger the episodes. I didn’t want her to give up before she was ready.

The Beginning of the End

Within 24 hours of starting the final medication, my mom showed surprising signs of improvement. The feeding tube was removed. She began speaking again, just a few words here and there. She managed to eat, mostly protein shakes. The physical therapists helped her sit and stand, but she was too weak to walk. The nurses were impressed, and the doctors reluctantly agreed. There was a slim chance of recovery.

A few days after Christmas, I was back home, waiting for my mom’s return by ambulance to the facility. The hospital called. Her airway began to collapse overnigh t, said a doctor. We have her on oxygen. You need to come now. I drove south in a daze. Rushed from parking garage to elevator and down the long hallway.

“Oh no, she’s blue,” I blurted when I saw the tint of her skin underneath the oxygen mask. This is it, I thought. I need to speak now. I sat down next to her and grasped her hands.

“You made me tough, mom,” I said. “And that’s how I’ve been able to fight for you these three years.”

Suddenly, I was sobbing and had to stop.

“I love you so much,” I gasped, trying to hold it together. “I’m not very good at this. I’m so sorry we couldn’t figure it out. But I am so proud of how hard you’ve fought.”

My mom took a breath. A moment later, she took a deeper one. Then another. Slowly, the pale blue tint faded from her face. For an hour, her oxygen levels rose. Her normal color returned. Hospital staffers stepped in to look. She surprised us one last time.

Throughout the day, she grew stronger. By afternoon, the nurse sent me on my last long walk around Charleston. I spent the night in a chair holding my mom’s hand. The next day, I

3 2 Sc h o o l s w il l c o m p e te a n d o n l y O N E w il l b e t h e 2 0 2 4 To p A d ve n t u r e Co l l e g e Wi n n e r! V O T E N O W U N T I L M A Y 3 ! A DV E NT U R E TO P 20 24
PATHS IN HAMPTON PARK.

followed the ambulance to her facility, where we turned her room into a hospice. The medication had helped, but she’d become too weak to recover. Instead, she had some final visits with family and friends. From the time the doctors said she had days to weeks, she lasted nearly two months.

Before she passed away at the beginning of February, my mom and I spent long hours together. We watched old movies before her sight failed. We reminisced, with me doing the talking. She uttered brief replies before losing the ability to speak.

“We went to Yosemite,” I said, rattling off our best times. Point Reyes. Muir Woods. Lake Tahoe. We rafted the Klamath. Hiked in Tilden. Rowed boats in Golden Gate Park. I always loved when we went to Fort Point. We didn’t do as much as we hoped these last few years, but we had some good times. We walked the neighborhood, the riverfront, the refuge.

“I hope it was nice for you,” I said tearfully.

“Yes,” she gasped with all her strength. “It was beautiful.”

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FOLLOW THE SMART PERSON

SOMETIMES, WHEN I REMINISCE, I don’t even recognize my younger self. It’s not just the fact that I wore camouflage-colored Crocs in formal settings, or that younger me didn’t have a ghost-white beard. I don’t recognize that younger version of myself because young me was an idiot. If you need a more concrete example than the fact that I wore Crocs to fancy dinners, just look at any of the multi-day adventures that I planned and led, most of which ended in disaster.

Not life-threatening disasters, but the kind of disasters where I left key gear back at the car. The kind of disasters where my adventure cohorts and I had to share a single beer in the middle of a 60-mile day, because that single beer was the only calories we remembered to bring. The kind of disasters where maps were misread, distances misinterpreted, and athletic ability misjudged.

If I were to write a memoir about my younger adventures, I would have to call it, “Oops.”

All these self-led disasters were fun in the way that most non-life-threatening mistakes in the backcountry are fun. We can all laugh them off when we’re out of danger and talking about what a shit show the whole affair was over a couple of beers in a bar where we’re safe and warm.

I’m not saying I regret any of the bad decisions I made. Maybe the Crocs? But there’s a time and place for these ill-advised, poorly planned self-led adventures. I’m a huge fan. Writing about those adventures has occupied a significant percentage of my career. But as I’ve aged, I’ve grown to appreciate the foresight it takes to make a good decision, like hiring a guide who knows what the hell they’re doing.

In fact, not hiring a guide might have been the most common mistake of my youth. Why would I consult an expert and lean on the knowledge of professionals who know the terrain and can lead us safely through it? Where’s the fun in that? I come from a long line of men who refuse to ask directions or seek the help of a professional (we can taxidermy this animal ourselves, thank you very much!), so why would I get a professional outdoorsperson to guide me through an adventure?

For instance, there was this one time when I was hiking in the jungle of the Dominican Republic with my wife, and we were looking for a secret beach on the Caribbean that you could only get to via an unmarked hike. I had two options: A) Hire a local guide to take us right to the beach or B) Walk into the jungle on our own using only my questionable sense of direction as a guide.

It was a no brainer. We braved it solo and stumbled around the jungle for hours, my wife contemplating the pros and cons of divorce the whole time. Out loud. To me.

But I’ve been exposed to really great guides throughout my twodecades-long career of writing about adventure, and my stance on the subject has matured. You should never underestimate the value of following someone who knows

where they’re going. The guides have been there before. They know the terrain and they know what to expect from the landscape. A good guide has all the right maps, and then, get this, actually remembers to bring them on the adventure!

I think when I was younger, I was worried having a guide would put a damper on the amount of fun I could have in the woods, like having an overbearing chaperone on a middle school field trip. But you know what is really fun? Actually making it to your destination. Not sleeping in a cave because you’re lost and don’t have the right gear. Having enough food to eat is fun.

Maybe just as important, a well-seasoned adventure guide is a professional decision maker. If the sky looks funny and the hair on the back of your neck is starting to stand up, the guide knows to get off the top of the mountain. If the bridge is washed out because of a flood and the water is waist deep, the guide knows to look for another spot to cross. Guides will not only plan your meals and snacks, they’ll tell you when to eat. Literally, they stop what they’re doing and say, “Now would be a good time for a snack.” They tell you where to set up your tent and remind you not to sleep with a Snickers bar in your pocket. Can you put a price on having a professional make all of the right decisions for you?

How many decisions do you make on a daily basis? Work decisions, parenting decisions, what to eat, where to eat, how much to eat, what to watch on TV, what book to read. Should you drink all the beers in the fridge right now or just one? Should you put a taco inside a slice of pizza and call it a Paco? Should you buy the new bike at the bike shop because it’s purple? Should you wear Crocs to the wedding?

Decision fatigue is a real thing, and going on an adventure with a guide, where you surrender all of those decisions to a professional, can be downright therapeutic. Having a guide is like having a really smart person tell you what to do. Not only am I all in on hiring a guide for the backcountry, I’d be willing to hire a guide for my day to day life, too. Imagine waking up in the morning and over a caloriepacked breakfast, the guide tells you exactly where you're going and what you’ll be doing, how far you’ll get if you stay on pace. And then at some point he’ll come into your office and tell you to eat a bar and take a nap. Sounds pretty damn great to me.

I mean, I’m married, so I kind of have that person in my life already, but I might take the directions better if they’re coming from a third party who wears Chacos and always carries a first aid kit.

68 BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS
THE OUT AND BACK DECISION REVISION
PHOTO COURTESY OF THE AUTHOR

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THE GOODS ALL AGES

FAMILY ADVENTURE GEAR

Want to get the whole clan outside and enjoying the outdoors? Here’s the gear to help make it more fun.

Bote

LowRider Aero Tandem

With the ability to serve as a SUP or sit-on-top kayak, this versatile inflatable is the perfect boat for family camping trips to lakes and mellow rivers. Get two people—kid and parent, two capable kids, even two parents—paddling on it, and you’ll have a blast on the water. The flat bottom with a bit of rocker means the board is easy to control and magnetic attachment points even keep water bottles secure and handy. $899; boteboard.com

MSR

Habiscape

Available in four- and six-person models, the airy Habiscape is easy to set up and offers enough room (62.5 square feet and 72 inches of headroom in the four-person, 83 and 76 in the six) to spread out and play cards and sleep comfortably. Plenty of pockets inside keep necessary gear like headlamps and hats closeby and easy to find when you need to go potty in the middle of the night. $500 four person, $600 six-person; msrgear.com

Therm-a-Rest

Honcho Poncho Kids

This mashup of blanket and jacket is sure to be a campfire favorite for the kiddos. There’s just enough insulation inside to keep you toasty, and the waterproof, ripstop polyester outer lining can protect your little one from the elements when the weather goes south in a hurry. There’s even an adult version for grownups who need some camp comfort. $79; thermarest.com

Fjällräven

High Coast Duffel 36

Hauling kids in the wilds (or at least a campground) requires a lot of gear (and extra gear just in case). Stuff it all in this roomy duffel to make packing easy. You can chuck it in the back of the car and turn it into a backpack thanks to stowable padded shoulder straps and double-duty padding on the bottom when it's time to hoof it to your destination. $120; fjallraven.com

Deuter

Kid Comfort Active SL (Women’s Fit)

Built for female geometry, this kid carrier is key when it comes to getting that little one out in nature and keeping you on the move. Plenty of padding on the shoulder straps and a highly ventilated back panel keep mom comfy, and a pop-up sun shade is perfect for naps. $280; deuter.com

Breeo

Y Series Firepit

“I hate rabbits!” No, that odd phrase does not shift campfire smoke away—even if you tell your kids it does. Weighing in at 31 pounds, this portable smokeless fire pit will eliminate the problem (and the hassles and potential dangers of a traditional campfire). Ideal for the backyard, too, it can be used on decks and you can beef it up with a smart grilling attachment kit ($150 extra) $495; breeo.com

Born Outdoor

Badger Bed 30 Sierra Bundle

The ultimate outdoor sleep system combines a Badger Bed 30, 650-fill Sierra Down Quilt, Cascade Flannel Sheets, and Therm-a-Rest Mond King XXL pad into one cozy nest for finicky sleepers. Use it in your tent or slide it into the back bed of your vehicle. $825; bornoutdoor.com

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BOTE MSR THERM-A-REST FJÄLLRÄVEN DEUTER
BREEO OUTDOOR
BORN

THE GOODS ALL AGES

Mountain Equipment

Helium 400

ENO

DayLoft Hammock

Light and easy to stow in that packed trunk, this warm bag is good for car camping or backpacking excursions. Responsibly sourced 700-fill down keeps it cozy and soft, and a breathable recycled shell seals the deal.

$ 420; mountain-equipment.com

Salewa

Pedroc Pro PTX Mid

Made for speed hiking, this sturdy-but-light boot is just what parents need when they are on the go, chasing kids through the woods or hauling them on their backs. Breathable, it laces up securely, and the Pomoca sole can take on everything from loose rock to hard pavement. $200; salewa.com

Rab

Exosphere 3.5

This cozy, self-inflating pad takes the frustration out of telling your kids to get their sleeping area ready. Once set up, it provides plenty of warmth and comfort for a good night’s rest, thanks to honeycomb foam inside that provides R 3.6 insulation while tipping the scales at just 23.5 ounces. $130; rab.equipment

Made of recycled polyester and mesh, the plush DayLoft brings the portable hammock game to the next level, providing all the space of a bigger, more luxurious hang-out in a model that you can set up anywhere. The only problem is deciding who in the family gets to spend time in it. $200; eaglesnestoutfittersinc.com

Denvix

Tire Inflator

This simple godsend of a device will pump up bike tires and balls in a jiffy, but what really makes it great is the ability to add air to your vehicle tires anywhere. That eschews having to find a gas station air machine that actually works while you are on the road. Bonus: You can charge it up in your vehicle. $100; denvix.com

Leki

Khumbu Lite

Trekking poles make life easier and save the knees of parents tasked with hauling extra gear or kids in carriers into the woods. These aluminum poles weigh just 8.6 ounces each and adust between 100 cm and 135 cm, so you can switch them up between parents and pack down in a hurry when you don’t need them. All that functionality means they work great when you are sans family as well. $120; lekiusa.com

Veer

All-Terrain Cruiser

Here’s the wagon we all wish we had as kids. With all-terrain tires that roll over rocks or sand and the ability to pack it down flat and stash in the back of your car, this hardcore kid hauler makes excursions whine-free. Even better, parents can haul it behind them packed with kids and supplies or push it like a stroller down the sidewalk. $700; goveer.com

Kavu

Alderbrooke

Active moms will appreciate these open-toed beauties ideal for kicking it around camp or on short walks. Rope cords keep them sturdy and look the outdoor part, and sturdy rubber outsoles can take on rugged terrain. $75; kavu.com

Astronaut Ice Cream

Experienced parents know that, yes, treats can get the family through tough times on the road or trail. And what surprise goody is better than a freeze-dried ice cream sandwich in a bag? A throwback to the early days of NASA, this stuff comes in yummy modern flavors including mint chocolate chip and cookies and cream. $5; astronautfoods.com

72 BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS
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OUR FAVORITE SONGS IN APRIL

Best New Music from the Blue Ridge and Beyond

EVERY MONTH OUR EDITORS

curate a playlist of new music, mainly focusing on independent artists from the South. In April we’re highlighting new tunes from Bonny Light Horseman and Old 97’s .

OLD 97’S

“Where the Road Goes”

Three decades deep, alt-country pioneers Old 97’s are still moving forward, releasing their 13th album “American Primitive” on April 5. First single “Where the Road Goes” finds lead singer Rhett Miller delivering what he calls a “spiritual travelogue,” as he reflects on places he’s been and, more broadly, some of the tough twists and turns life can take. The track features an appearance by Peter Buck of R.E.M. – J.F.

ST. PAUL

“Colder”

Paul Janeway exploded onto the scene twelve years ago as the front man for St. Paul & the Broken Bones. The golden voiced Janeway, whose pipes are reminiscent of vintage soul icons Otis Redding and Wilson Pickett, found himself getting complacent, so his latest release, under the moniker St. Paul, finds him exploring new sonic territory. “Closer” is a disco trip, with Janeway’s powerful vocals narrating the demise of a relationship over funky keyboards and a dance hall beat. Fans of St. Paul should find this departure from those old soul sounds a groovy adventure. – D.S.

BONNY LIGHT HORSEMAN

“When I Was Younger” Call it a supergroup or call it a side project. At this point, it’s just

great that Anais Mitchell, Josh Kaufman, and Fruit Bats’ Eric D. Johnson keep coming back to this special collaboration. As Bonny Light Horseman, the three musicians make ethereal folk music highlighted by the stunning harmonies of Mitchell and Johnson. The group recently inked a deal with venerable indie label Jagjaguwar and a new full album is supposed to come later this year, but in the meantime they released this single, a jazzy exploration on the ennui that comes with the responsibility of getting older. – J.F.

MAGIC TUBER STRING BAND

Days of Longing”

This acoustic instrumental duo from Durham, N.C., gives old-time music a fresh, experimental update. “Days of Longing,” which comes from the newly released album “Needlewax,” is a fiddle-guitar duet that starts with a pleasant melody perfect for walking through an idyllic forest. But by the end, Courtney Werner and Evan Morgan spiral into a storm of cacophonous improv that evokes nature’s unpredictability. – J.F.

PIGEONS PLAYING PING PONG

“Feelin’ Fine”

Few bands exude such boundless enthusiasm and optimism in their music as do Pigeons Playing Ping Pong. The jam-funk quartet from Baltimore, Md., have a knack for penning catchy, riff-heavy singalongs that their avid fan base joyfully belts back to them when the band is on stage. “Feelin’ Fine” absolutely fits that mold, with intricate guitar harmonies set over a bouncy rhythm and soaring organ. Good vibes abound, and before the first listen is over you’ll be feeling just like the title suggests. – D.S

CEDRIC BURNSIDE

“Closer”

Grammy winner Cedric Burnside

gets deeply introspective on “Closer,” reflecting intently on his personal journey, how he has been tested, and how his faith has both guided him successfully through life’s challenges while also offering redirection when he has strayed from the righteous path. Stripped down and intimate, this is another sterling example of Burnside’s hill country blues mastery; raw guitar and soulful vocals over a strippeddown rhythm section makes Burnside’s music as gripping as the honesty shared within. – D.S.

CRIS JACOBS

“Daughter, Daughter”

To be a parent is to knowingly push your children into a world both wonderful and forbidding, hopefully after offering them a healthy understanding of how to both seek joy and navigate fear. It’s this dichotomy that Cris Jacobs tackles in “Daughter, Daughter,”

from “One of These Days,” his first record in five years. The anxious nature of the song is heightened by Jacobs’ gritty guitar playing and the lap steel work of special guest Jerry Douglas. Together, Jacobs and Douglas surround this lament with a foreboding spirit that every parent knows all too well. – D.S.

AARON LEE TASJAN

“The Drugs Did Me”

Nashville tunesmith Aaron Lee Tasjan is known for blending Americana with touches of free-range psychedelia, but he’s taking bigger leaps into studio experimentation on his new album “Stellar Evolution.” The record’s first single finds the now-sober singersongwriter looking back on the pitfalls of excess through a woozy alt-rock track with skittish drums that wouldn’t sound out of place on an old-school Flaming Lips album. –J.F.

74 BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS
FRESH
TRAIL MIX
TRACKS
To hear these songs and more, follow the Blue Ridge Outdoors’ Trail Mix playlist on Spotify.
MAGIC TUBER STRING BAND RELEASED ITS NEW ALBUM “NEEDLEWAX” ON THRILL JOCKEY RECORDS IN MARCH. PHOTO BY KRISTIN KARCH

MAY 23-26, 2024

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TAUK MOORE JIM LAUDERDALE & THE GAME CHANGERS

DOGS IN A PILE THE SELDOM SCENE THE MOUNTAIN GRASS UNIT

COUCH CAITLIN KRISKO & THE BROADCAST YARN

ROOSTER WALK HOUSE BAND ARKANSAUCE SNEEZY

MYRON ELKINS ISAAC HADDEN ORGAN TRIO

ARTISTS AT LARGE: RON HOLLOWAY JEFF SIPE JOSH SHILLING

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SOL DRIVEN TRAIN TRAVIS BOOK & FRIENDS STICKS N THORNS

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76 BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS
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