MIND Mag Jan 2018 Issue #1

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‘We must become the change we wish to see in the world’ - Mohandas K. Gandhi

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Team and Contributors Sukiran Singh, Editor Juhi Ali, Editor-at-large Aanshi Gupta, Fashion Director Sanjana Prabhu, Content Writer Simarjot Wadhwa, Content Contributor Rajat Shukla, Photographer and Re-toucher Soham Dalvi, Photographer and Retoucher

Contributers Niti Goenka, MUAH Ranveer Dua, Photographer Aaditya Patkar, Photographer Omkar Chitnis, Photographer Abhishek P. Chatterjee, Stylist Pranay Tiwari, Stylist Shounak Amonkar, Stylist Akanksha Gupta

Thanks to Abhinav Singh Priyank, The Stadium Bar Prashant, WTF! Siddhant Kaushal Sandesh Kirtikar Infectious PR UK Prof. Mohinder Singh & Sunishka Goenka

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CONTENTS

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Distort the

Lineland Fashion Spread

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Anjali Lama

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26

Fame Game

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Tisca

Chopra

The New Gen

Musician

78 WEZ

New Kid on the Block

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Amitabh Bhattacharya

Editor’s note Don’t we all look for a balanced Society? Where do we go if the society tilts its axis, and there is no one to guide it back? And then the so called principled, end up plunging her the most. An unbiased guiding voice has always been important in our society, now, more than ever. I think the following poem ‘The Pyramid’ clears the realities and hopes of this generation, and what every millennial toils for‘I, We, Never be free, Lines of blood & roots of tree, Imagine a world, of unbound decree, A parallel paradox, not what imagined thee?

They offered us salvation then let us rot in incarceration, They lured us with technology and eclipsed our chronology, They weaved an idea of freedom, yet mongered the panic drums, They created an illusion of completeness, then why the hollows of abyss?’

A true equal society happens when the minds are liberal, and senses are untethered. Where technology plays a role, only to ease work and life, and the snap judgement is over. When the world is literate and can differentiate the facts from fiction. When the ideas are generated collectively and the society reaps the benefits. When the rich help the poor and not steal their last robe. Alas! A lot will not happen in our lifetimes, but at least we can try to walk to that change.

M.IND Mag started an year ago to put out an alternative, broad spectrum voice, the ones that the millennial Indian wants to listen to, but is generally shut down by collapsing systems. Welcoming our first exclusive issue, In 2018, we have to look to the future and not the past; reinvent and invent, and not destruct; be the voice of a civilized modern society and not of a civilization that dwells in epochs gone by.

Sukiran Singh Editor, M.IND Mag

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India Needs a Renaissance and Here’s Why!

by Sanjana Prabhu

Renaissance means ‘re-birth’. The civilisations of ancient Europe, Italy and Greece were rediscovered, inspiring an interest in classical learning which introduced post-medieval beliefs and ideas. The population was becoming liberal, intelligent and wealthier which led to an increase in trade and travel and the spread of new ideas. Many countries around the globe have taken inspiration from this movement and have worked on the benefit of their status. Sadly India still seems lost along the way.

Politics Indian politics is often described as being feisty, vibrant, colourful, controversial, debatable, provocative, all of that and more. Ask a billion people what is wrong with Indian politics and you will get a billion perspectives. We shout over roof tops that we are the world’s largest democracy and assume that it is also the best. Well let’s think again. Majority of the Indian population still live in rural India, in poverty and poor living conditions, and with little education or awareness of matters outside their areas of residence. The governing party of India sees controversial figures like Hitler and Mussolini as its role models. The political party has always seen India as the land of Hindu’s. The growing hatred and violence against Minorities and its spectacularly video-graphed circulation in the India of today, has developed fast. Mutual racism has topped the charts in a short period of time. We have had always been living in harmony since an early age, but the trends seem 6 Issue #1 Jan 2018

to have changed in the last 70 years, worsening now.

PDA Let’s talk about PDA and political ramifications; there was a time when two sunflowers blooming against each other was shown to display intimacy between couples in Hindi films but most of the millennials would regard it as something absurd. If you really put some thought into it, we are compelled to ask, have we really progressed? Do we still have the freedom in this country; the world’s largest democracy to express not just through speech but also emotionally and physically? Many of us do not know the origins of kissing were first mentioned in the Mahabharata. Two men holding hands doesn’t become a representation of being gay. On the other hand, if a boy and a girl hold hands in public, this is frowned upon. When we see our mothers or friends (of the same sex) bidding adieu at airports or anywhere, it is termed as ‘pure’ and ‘beautiful’. But if this situation involves a couple, it is deemed to be termed ‘obscene’ in our country.

Molestation Eve teasing and molestation are problems that women all over the world. But in India, there it is a word blanket for the term ‘sexual harassment.’ Men think that this act puts women in her place by reminding her that no matter how competent, intelligent, successful, or educated she is, men can still treat her as a sex-object in public and she has to endure it. The misguided belief that such behaviour will get them a date, is reinforced by the stereotypes perpetuated by Bollywood movies. Social pressure and attitudes like ‘boys will be boys’ reinforces the source to change. The older generation still perpetuates a lot of the misguided beliefs and stereotypes which leaves the policing of behaviour half-hearted.

Bollywood Bollywood has influenced daily life and culture in India for decades now. In fact, movies are the mainstay of entertainment and almost a religion in the nation. The thing is that film industry affects the youth a lot. For a last few decades, this industry is leaving negative effects on the people. Movies without stories, without logics, complete vulgarity, showing unreal and impossible action scenes make it to the top. The saddest part about all this is that most of these things happen in commercial movies, which attract huge masses. A director ruins the full storyline just to add romance or a item song in the movie. But the biggest issue that has grabbed everyone’s attention in the recent years is the normalisation of nepotism. When is the last time a young new discovery

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wasn’t from a film family?

Attire Millennia ago, the Greeks took inspiration from our garment silhouette and started developing new ways to drape cloth. After 5000 years, we still have not made our silhouette practical, apart from kurta salwar, that came from middle east. The problem isn’t with the attire but the way we wear the attire. We have been decking ourselves the same way for generations. Since the 70’s, the new generations tried to adapt something different, which was frowned upon. In 2018, this has ultimately become ‘western influence.’ By this logic China is in west of India, where most of our products are made.

Taboo Another cultural counterstroke we see is art of making love. Growing up, we all were told that talking about sex is a taboo and no one should be talking about it. Even the English movies represented ‘porn’ and frowned upon. Sex, which is a big taboo in India, talking about sex is wrong, having sex before marriage is unacceptable and educating youngsters about sex is not an option. Ironically, Indian culture is the one of the earliest civilization that educated, talked about and celebrated sex, which is also being shut off by alteration of the history books.

Whether it is sexual education in the form of Kamasutra and scriptures and pornographic depictions through sculptures and paintings, sex was never taboo in India and was always an Indian culture to start with. But according to the modern Indian society, sex is completely unacceptable.

LGBTQ This brings us to putting a limelight on the LGBTQ community in India.

India voted to abolish death penalty, for consensual same-sex relations, adultery, blasphemy and apostasy. Today, homosexuality and queer identities may be acceptable to more Indian youths than ever before, but within the closure of family, home and school, acceptance of their sexuality and freedom to openly express their gender choices still remain a constant struggle for LGBTQ people. Apart from gay pride parades, meet-ups and heated discussions on Twitter, families in rural India have their own ways of dealing with LGBT individuals. In some parts, secret honour killings are planned. The Arthashastra, an ancient Indian treatise on statecraft, mentions a wide variety of sexual practices which, whether performed with a man or a woman. And frankly, we see ancient sculptures and records where same gender sexual contact was encouraged. It was considered exquisite and virtuous.

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Bans Banning seems to be a new favourite these days. Over the many years, we have lost count on all the irrelevant subjects that have been barred.

Our community believes that cows should be protected, because they are considered holy by India’s majority Hindu population. Indian states have already banned slaughter of cattle. But millions of Indians, including dalits (formerly untouchables), Muslims and Christians, consume beef. A few months ago a mob attacked a man and killed him over “rumours” that his family ate beef. Recently the Condom ad ban fired up the nation demanding a proper explanation towards the procedure.

Education The Renaissance was a time of learning, but it wasn’t a time of schools as we know them today. Some people were well educated, while others never attended school. Unfortunately, in India, a large percentage of the population, still don’t get the education they deserve. The education system has changed little over the last hundred years or so, it was designed for a 19th or early 20th century world. The education order is outdated. Our current education system does not allow individuals to develop their strengths. The skills they teach in public educational boards are many a times irrelevant. They need to teach students to be independent and imbibe leadership skills and entrepreneurship skills apart from the theoretical courses. The curriculums are too rigid for absolutely no reason other than control. We need to find our aptitudes and passions rather than filling out bubble sheets and counsellors.

School should be about learning not about testing and ranking kids.

Technology is essential. Not to forget the planned deletion of history.

Cutting down chunks of history from text books, won’t erase it from existence, rather would inbred a hoard of ignorants.

Art and Culture of India.

India was always a cornerstone of art. All creative fields were considered as the highest ranked profession. Artistic revolution took place with the Maurya dynasty, Ajanta-Ellora cave carvings and Mughal influence (Taj Mahal). The British Raj added their element as well went they settled in India. Kolkata and Mumbai hold their work in architecture.

After gaining Independence, Bollywood became an affordable artistic culture for the common man, with its own identity.

Recently we have started seeing a beginning of an art revolution, where people have been rejecting baseless Bollywood for indie cinema to some extent, The visual artists have come to roads in form of exhibits

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like Sassoon Dock Art Project, tinder is a success in India, Right to privacy has been declared by the Supreme Court and some more. But there is a long way to go and a real revolution to be created.

Our society is rigid in the name of tradition and is directionless. This country, since 1991 and more so in recent times, has been a victim of consumerism, widespread corruption, extravagant imitations, rapid communalism, creamy layer class bias, and a five-star lifestyle. From the childhood, we are trained to follow a certain protocol. We are made to believe by our parents, society is the higher ground. And we never try to think beyond. The only way to flip these problems, is by changing our perspective and mentality. That may not be completely possible, but we can put in an effort to look at things with a new approach. It’s about time, we need a resurrection from our flawed ways.

So, do we need a Renaissance? ***

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RANDOMS Amy Winehouse Photographed by Ankita Nevrekar Styling by Divya Israni, Meenakshi Kothari and Honey Kothari Model : Jesslina Nayyar MUA : Valene Dsouza Hairstylist : Arshi Syed Bodysuit by Nidhi Munim

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DISTORT THE LINELAND F T. MA RTA (MEZORA TALENTS) P HOTOGR APH ED BY RANVEE R D UA ST YL ING B Y AANSH I GUPTA MA KEU P B Y SAH ER AH M ED G AN D H I HA IR BY VALENE D SO UZA C ONC EPT BY AKANKSH A GU PTA

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On Marta: Trench Coat: Nicobar, Shoes: Only Two Feet

Distort Editorial

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Left: High low Top: Sameer Madan, Skirt: Madison, Neckpiece: Aquamarine, Shoes: Only Two Feet Right: Jumpsuit: Vedika M, Rings: Aquamarine 15

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Left: Culottes: Nicobar, Shirt: Madison, Crop top: Palaquine, Shoes: Intoto, Ring And Earrings: Aquamarine Right: Pantsuit: Palaquine, Lace Top: Zara, Neckpiece: Aquamarine

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MODERN INDIAN DESIGNERS

KARLEO

Recently, Miss India, Manushi Chhilar, won the Miss Word 2017 title and we loved the gowns she draped herself with. Well we got lucky and got to meet and interview the two personalities, Karan Berry and Leon Vaz, behind her beautiful attire she wore for the event. Designer duo Karan Berry and Leon Vaz are best known for their stunning line of wedding gowns and exquisite accessories, a popularity that led to the creation of their fashion label, Karleo. The duo showcases one of the new generations of on-trend bridal designers and their dresses are beyond perfect for the modern bride.

They’re the epitome of cool glamour and every design mixes, unexpected and exceptional craftsmanship.

shot by Rajat Shukla

What made you enter the fashion industry?

It was not just the fashion industry, the fact of creating something and making it look pretty. We choose to get into the bridal line especially into white weddings and evening wear,

it’s actually a very niche market but it’s something which is very valuable and personal and we do this out of the shear love of designing. We didn’t want this to become some sort of wholesale or a retail kind of a format. We got into design for the whole reason so we could connect to people and create something and have the opportunity to turn their dreams into reality.

Who are your greatest influences?

We think that our greatest influences would be our clients, the people that we meet and come across in our day to day life. They have been more influential than a single person in particular.

How did you come up with the brand?

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shot by Rajat Shukla

It was just a conversation we both were having on a fashion week and we just spoke and our sensibilities really matched together and we just came up with the idea of creating something for people, with them being involved. We didn’t want something just for us. Karleo is a mixture of both our names, Karan and Leon and surprisingly we are actually two contrast personalities. That affects our work, when we are put together we create an organic fusion.

How is working in the fashion industry different today than when you started out?

Earlier it was a very niche market. There were very few people involved. Today every second person is becoming a fashion designer. As much as the industry is growing, it isn’t going in right direction. There are people who have spent years and years in studying and mastering the art while on the other hand there are newbies who come and get quick hands with international tailors, readymade material and getting their work done, and they easily achieve the fame but they don’t know the crux when you talk to them. The difference between then and now is that it’s just become a rat race. Earlier people did it for the passion, which is why we don’t want to become a part of the race. We work from our studio. We don’t like to retail anywhere. We just want create the art.

How do you stay updated on current trends?

We do a lot of research. Leon does a lot of reading and is up to date with what’s happening in the industry. We do follow designers but we also keep up with the political and cultural trends as well. It helps us create and understand where the future of the industry is heading.

It also influences us in the way we look at our designs. We read a lot online, be it books, articles, newspapers as well.

What is the process when you design a new collection?

First there is a big fight (Laughs) as to what we have to do. We both then narrow down our concepts and take our own tasks to hand. We both have a different set of skills so we both divide the work. We sit down, debate, discuss, throw papers, do everything, come back the next morning and decide on a middle ground. There is no dominance in the workplace.

It’s a very relaxed environment and an organic process. We want to stick to that because it helps us design in a very honest manner. When we make rough sketches of silhouette, we again debate and alter our decisions. So it takes around 8-9 months to make a collection

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and the collection only include 12 pieces.

You have had themes in the past? Can you tell us about how the idea came up?

Yes, we have done spices and zodiac signs. We pick up the mundane things in life and we get inspires from that. We play with the characteristics and the colours. We make silhouettes according to each personality so the whole collection looks very different. When we put it together, it didn’t look like a collection because every piece had its own trait.

What rules, culture and structure need to exist to foster collaboration?

Collaboration should only when people are there with the same thought process. When you are collaborating you have to be true to yourself and to the other person because that’s how you know your sensibilities match. You shouldn’t be doing for the heck of it.

How do you balance traditional techniques with contemporary bridal style?

We find a very fair balance in a way where we try to mix the old and the new together. In the traditional white catholic gown, we tend to add modern techniques of embroidery combined with hand-printing which is a very traditional way of creating a piece. The brides are modern with a tinge of traditionalism so they definitely want a touch of old school. We do a lot a thread work which brings out the antiquity.

What are the simplest designs you think could be in for all seasons?

The A-line is the simplest design. It can become a pearl gown, a body hugging or a slim piece. It is a design that can work through and through.

How do you think wedding gowns are reinventing themselves right now? We see a lot of non traditional gowns inspired by the personalities of the client.

People are tired of wearing ‘lehnga’s’ and ‘sarees’ for their wedding so they want another option. Now days weddings have decided with at least one occasion where the bride can wear a gown, be it cocktail evening or a reception or a sangeet. The idea is slowly moving forward because of the access of the internet, people are more aware which makes them want to try something new and different. And this doesn’t imply on the bride but also the families that attend these ceremonies. It’s win win situation for the client as well as the designer.

What do you think are the most important things a client should consider while choosing their gown?

The most important is the shape. If you don’t choose the right shape you are completely lost because that is the foundation. If you are wider on the hips and you select a body hugging gown, you aren’t going to be comfortable with that and it will just make it difficult for you. Choose something you are confident and comfortable enough to carry. We help the brides try on different kinds of shapes which gives them an idea on what suits them and what doesn’t. We help them come to a conclusion which the like as well as what fits their body.

What is the one must have accessory that will go on any gown?

The watch. If you have access to your grandmother’s vintage watch, it just adds the classic charm but any watch should do the trick.

What are your top tips on choosing a gown?

There are five major points: 1. Select a gown that suits your body type and personality 2. Choose the colour of your gown wisely.

3. Keep in mind of the embroidery. If you are wearing something heavy, you can’t do much of embroidery because it will only make you look heavier. The technique is very important.

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4. Check your accessories.

5. Make sure your hair and make-up go with your gown because that completes your whole look.

In terms of styling, what are you Do’s and Don’ts?

Don’t mix silver with gold. Don’t wear gold when your gown is white, it really doesn’t match.

Do not wear wedges with a gown because it will affect the way you walk. Don’t wear killer high hells but nothing less than a 2 inch. That works well. Strong lips because it works well with such a strong colour.

What is your signature style?

Classic hand-painting is our signature style.

Can you describe your overall styling method as a designer?

We like something which is classic but has a quirk to it.

What is your favourite fabric to work with?

Tule. It has no definition to it as a fabric. It takes any form. It looks very whimsical and dreamy so it really is a beautiful fabric to work with.

What are you fascinated by at the moment and how does it feed into your work?

Probably of doing very unconventional silhouettes with very traditional embroidery. We could take an armoured jacket and convert it into a very beautiful embroidery.

Can you tell us the goals behind Manushi Chhilar’s gown and the thought process behind it?

She was representing India and white shows the best of every human being. It’s as pure as the colour and as pure as her. It just depicts so much about her character. The whole idea behind that piece was to show the handcraft India excels in and to give her a very ‘Cindarella’ feel because that’s exactly what she wanted. So we made her look like the princess she wanted with a sexy vibe.

How would you benchmark Indian Fashion Industry, globally?

India is making a mark globally. The country has always been well known for its handcrafts. The recognition is dawning upon us slowly. We just hope it goes in the right direction. The textiles we have are amazing. People all over the world are aware of it. It just needs to get the right boost with the help of the right people.

What is the vision you have for your label?

To make pretty gowns and not get drifted away. We don’t want to be commercial. We don’t want to be in that zone where we survive from being commercial. We want to be exclusive and niche. We want to be accessible to everybody.

shot by Rajat Shukla

Can you give us a little hint on what we can expect from you guys in the coming season?

We are working on something new called Karleo Clay. It’s the fun part f Karleo where you have silhouettes which are little unexpected of the brand. It a huge contrast from what we usually do. It’s something we plan to release in March 2018.

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MODERN INDIAN DESIGNERS

NIMISH SHAH

, SHIFT

Designer Nimish Shah, an alumnus of London College of Fashion who has worked at Chloe and Burberry, launched the label Shift in 2011. He has found himself a finalist of Vogue India’s Fashion Fund and continues to be an industry favourite. The label is sophisticated and urban and aims to create a versatile and an adaptable style option for the audience. His designs are blended with unconventional detailing and elegant yet graceful prints giving every girl to dream about a chic wardrobe.

How did you get into the world of design?

I wanted to pursue business studies but I was really taken away by fashion, imagery and visuals so I gave myself just two years of just studying commerce and understanding fashion. After my twelfth, I decided I wanted to do product designing which is associated with the fashion industry. So that’s where it began. I went to LCF and did my bridging course with my undergrad studies; all of related to product and design management.

Who inspires you? How have they played a role in your designs?

Inspiration for me is from several sources. It’s more literal, it’s more other brands heritage and ethos that inspire me more than the design. If you look at Sabyasachi, Chole or Burberry, their designs inspire me more towards the business aspect. As literal inspiration, it could be anything from films to crockery. It could be any secondary product.

How did you switch from product designing to fashion?

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My products have always been linked with fashion be it accessories or footwear.

From that perspective, it was always about product management and product design as a discipline. As much as it sounds fancy, I have never really made any helmets or industrial products. It was always clothing.

Let’s talk about your style of work? What’s your routine when it comes to designing?

There is very little designing that I do in my life. It’s more about running the business and every day to day activity, about making sure our quality standards stay high. We research and develop things that are related to our brand as we offer the creative communication. Everything comes together. There is a very little design per say but there is a design in the way we operate.

Do you have a specific research process when you start a new collection?

I am always researching. Everything always goes in a folder and when the time’s right we start to link things together. I never sit down thinking I’ll do a research.

It is just an ongoing process that never ends.

Can you elaborate the concept behind Cruise 18?

Our latest collection, we are thinking of the evolution of my pen portrait or muse we all have in mind. There are dramatic changes within that personality. Two years ago we did a Missus Shift collection for a young girl and this was somebody who just felt like a Missus than wanting to be one. It was more like a state of mind. For this season we are looking at a techie, a Bangalore girl who is very savvy with computers, apps and software’s. We are thinking of someone who is very high-tech and conscious with fashion but at the same time isn’t a fashion whore. She has her own style which has evolved through observation and not because of the trends.

How would you describe Shift Men? Shift Men is a very interesting portrait. We are still building it but then again it’s more like everyday clothes for men who are freelancers. Its weekend wear but extended weekends wear which sort of overlaps. I’m always thinking when I live in Bombay, It’s a lot like San Fransisco where the weather is similar. So we are looking at that and taking work out of office and just working throughout the week more than having a weekend.

What is the one element you like to keep constant through all your collections?

There isn’t anything constant because eventually we end up making products that are suitable for a variety of people.

How do you maintain the essence of your brand with every collection you form?

There is always that authenticity that comes out from every product through the designs and the procedure behind them.

What is the one accessory that will go any of your designs?

It has to be flat shoes.

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You work with a lot of organic products. What is your take on sustainability and fashion?

I think there has been a lot of green wash as far as sustainability goes. A lot of people are making a lot of noise and spreading the message but the more people are talking about it, there is less action being taken. There has to be an intervention. The message is very simple; use you common sense. You don’t just kill living beings and that applies to other things as well. You have a self moral and then you have a will. You just need to find a balance between the two and pursue what you feel is relevant for your life which applies to the food you eat, the clothes you wear and your conscious behaviour.

You studied in London and worked for Burberry, what are the major things you have picked up along the way?

I became more passionate after loving in London. It got me a lot more passionate about fashion, work, building a rand identity and being true to the identity.

It was always about creating this parallel universe and a non tangible asset that Shift has come to become now.

What difference do you see after working for an international fashion brand and the brands based in the country?

I think they are so new with all of this that everybody is learning. Despite of me gaining that knowledge and exposure, I’m still not able to practice that exactly the way it is carried out be in London. And probably never be able to do it because countries and human resource and labour; it all fluctuates. There is a lot of executive stuff there and there is a lot of labour here so you can’t apply the skill sets. You have to become wise locally.

What is the motivation for catering for all sizes?

I don’t know if that is a brand mandate per se. I have been accused for making clothes for only for skinny girls but that’s not true. We make a lot of variety of clothes for a variety of body types. Sizing is just another thing depending on what is your silhouette and you tend to pick what works for you. That applies to skinny girls as well. So we do address a variety of customers within our collection.

Since you work on home accessories, do you intend to get into interior designing?

If the right project comes along, yes but then it will be a very small capsule collaboration. I don’t see myself as an interior practitioner. We will apply our skills and identity to the project.

What is your main motive behind your design aesthetics?

Our house aesthetics is established, that’s what we are and we just keep pushing that so there’s never a main motive per se. The fact that it such a small practice and such a small studio that everything comes from one or two people which means it’s always very centralised and not drifting away from the motive.

How do you manage creativity and commerce?

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I don’t unfortunately (laughs). I am lousy with commerce. I am overly indulgent with creativity.

But hopefully we will find it somewhere in the middle.

What is your opinion on high-fashion? Do you aspire to become a very popular high end fashion designer in the future?

I aspire to become a household brand which is known for quality and for its non tangible aesthetics and values.

Do you feel there is a significant interest for young designers at the moment?

Of course there is because there creative and liberal arts education and that are so relatively new for us and people are addressing that and perusing a career through that. Yes, it does depend on how you are dedicated and how relevant you are in the industry, there is a filtration process. People still find jobs within the space and being a democratic country, there is design applied on all levels. From top of the line design to mass produced design, there is talent everywhere.

Do you think social media has played a role in enhancing your brand? (how?)

Yes definitely. They are the out voice to reach out to our customers. Media is single handed responsible for spreading the word.

Give us an insight about your next project?

I haven’t even started. I am actually working on it right now. We always overlap our collections. There is never a pause there is always something or the other going on.

What is the one piece of career advice for the upcoming designers?

Work. Get a lot of industry experience. People are very jumpy about starting up their own businesses in India which is a no-go. Despite of having so much experience, when I set up my company, I wasted first two years in just learning. There is never enough of work experience. ***

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Fame Game Ft. Iman Eldeeb (Inega Models) P hot ographe d by Adit ya P a t ka r, Sty l i ng by Abhishek P. Chatterjee Mak eu p by Nit i G o enka , Ha i r by Va lene D s o u z a MUA A s s i s ta nc e by P r a t iksha Na ir Sty ling A s s i s ta nc e by Shimo li Ka p a s i Conc e pt by Aka nksha G up t a , Ma na ged by J u h i A l i Lo c at io n, THE STA DI U M B A R , M um b a i

FAme Game

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FAme Game

Jacket & Dress both by Sunaina Khera Earrings by Aldo

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Right: Sequin Sleeved Crop Shouldered Top

by Sameer Madan Pants by Eshaani Jayaswal. Earrings by Aldo Left: Embelished Shreded Top by Ridhi Mehra. Ruffled Sleeve Top

by Bhaavya Bhatnahar Pants by Ridhi Mehra

FAme Game

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FAme Game

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Right: Green Gown by J’SENSQUI Sequined Athleisure Dress by Sameer Madan Pearl Beaded Velvet Belt by Sameer Madan Earrings by Aldo Heels by Monroe Left: Dress by Ridhi Mehra Earrings by Aldo

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STRIPE IT UP!

by Aanshi Gupta

Stripe is the one fashion trend that have never gone out of style and have been around for the longest time. They first appeared in medieval era where only prisoners and criminals were seen wearing black and white stripes, much later they were associated with sea and water and incorporated in swimwear in whites and blues. During 60s striped shirts symbolized Rebellion that attracted more people. Later Vertical stripes became very popular in formal wear and horizontal for casual dressing.

The year 2017 (and taking forward to 2018) gave stripes a total makeover. From Hairline and pin stripes to multi colour stripes, this year has seen a lot of variations, making its way up at almost every designer’s radar, stripes are here to stay. Cropped cut-out sweaters with stripy bottoms at Fendi’s SS17 collection and half tucking oversized stripe shirt with clashing similar stripy shorts/skirts at Ports 1961 SS17, maxi dress at Tommy Hilfiger’s spring 2017 show became the favourite street styles for the year. Embellished stripes at Lanvin’s AW17 and androgynous fits as seen at Alberta Farretti AW17 left us mesmerized.

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Stripes not only ruled the ramps but left their mark at red carpet too. We are drooling over Yara Shahidi’s twirl in Naeem Khan’s fabulous multicolor gown at SAG Awards. Abby Clancy in a classically deconstructed tuxedo dress by Haider Ackerman at BRIT Awards looked super chic. Amandla Stenberg totally nailed it in blue and white striped Fendi dress with bright blue lipstick keeping it quirky at MTV Movie and TV awards. Naomi Watts spotted at CinemaCon 2017 in sheer stripes by Valentino definitely stole our hearts away.

Street-style has also seen quite some unique ways of embracing stripes. Be it Gigi Hadid’s stripy pantsuit co-ords, or Taylor Swift in sequinned rainbow striped dress matching with shrug for a photoshoot, and Paris Hilton’s striped maxi skirt worn with solid top definitely solid top definitely gave us some outfit goals. We can definitely say that there is not a specific way to wear stripes this season. You can custom wear it as you like, may it be stripes on stripe look, half stripe dress or layering them, this season is all about exploring.

Images by Ranveer Dua

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Blue Dress by Sartorial by Swati Goradia Pink Off Shoulder Dress by Sameer Madan Mesh Stylist’s Own

Beauty no Bound

P h ot og r ap h ed by Om k ar C hit nis, S tyling b y Abhishek P. Chatterjee M akeup b y N iti Goenka H air b y May uri N ali M UA Assistan c e by Pratiksha Na ir P h ot og r ap h y Assistanc e by P a r ija Shind e S tyling A ssistan c e by Shimo li Ka p a si C o ncep t by N iti Goenka e t ouching 34 RIssue #1 Jan 2018 by Supriyo Sen

ANJALI LAMA Interview by Sanjana Prabhu

With strong stage presence and striking features, 32-year-old transgender model, Anjali Lama took the world by a storm at Lakme Fashion Week in Mumbai.

But with every step on the runway, she is making history. Born Nabin Waiba, as a boy growing up in the rural district of Nuwakot in Nepal, Lama was often severely bullied for having feminine tendencies. Her struggle paid off and she is now where most models would kill to be. She epitomises the survival instinct that women of our time need to develop to get their due.

What have you found to be the biggest obstacle you have faced since you came out?

I come from a small village in Nepal. It has a village committee which make almost half the regulations and rules. Because it was such a small village, gossip would spread like wildfire. There were times when I would be mocked for the way I behaved. I even tried to change the way I am but it wasn’t possible. There was a time where I tried to act like a man but I never felt like it fit my body. Everyone would talk behind my back or go complain to my family about my feminine habits. That is probably the biggest obstacle I faced since.

Have you ever faced discrimination?

Being a transgender, it always happens. I don’t speak for myself individually. I am voicing out for the entire community. For gays, it isn’t that difficult. Until they admit to the fact, they are attracted to the same gender, they are still considered as men. People tend to figure out our nature once they look at us because of our conduct. People have the habit of judging us and not providing or helping out. We don’t get good jobs; they will taunt us and call us names. Even after I came forward with my sexuality, my identity played a huge role in the society. It is very difficult for us to find an accommodation in any city. And when we do get a place we have to pay twice the price for rent. I have been living in Bombay for a year now and here I can be considered as the third gender. But back in Nepal I am still lawfully a man. We still don’t have the freedom to change our identity due to the law. And we always need an identity proof while looking for place to stay. That really tires me out because I have to explain my transition. After listening to me, they would be sceptical about renting a house to a transgender, only because of the orthodox society we live in.

Even after the backlash, how did you manage to keep your game strong and move forward in achieving your goals?

It’s all about the strength you have internally. I give all the credits to my mother.

She always told me “not to look back” and “never give up”. She always told me to face the problems rather than running away from them. Sometimes I do have bad days where I feel like going back to my hometown but I know nothing

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Left: Skirt Used as Neckgear by Sunaina Khera Silver Dress by J’SENSQUI Right: Embelished Tulle Shirt by Sunaina 36 Issue 2018 Khera Jacket#1 byJan J’SENSQUI

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Embelished Sweatshirt by 38 Issue #1 Jan 2018 Shahin Mannan

positive may come out of that. It is a village and will take years for development; mentality. There are difficulties in some way or the other. That doesn’t mean I can give up and call the quits. I know that I have to fight it. I have cried it out a number of times and lashed out but I also see the optimism in life. I feel proud of myself for coming a long way. I want to go further with my profession. It feels good to know there are people who will support you in your path to achievement. They keep me going.

What were the differences that weren’t agreed upon at home?

According to Indian beliefs and system, when there is a boy born in the family, they put up a stereotypical description on them; he has to be masculine, fierce and the one who provides for the family. They won’t accept a boy roaming around in a girl’s clothes. And believe it or not, it’s not only in India but the same system works internationally. The western culture may be progressive, but they still haven’t learnt t accept us completely. I was born a son in my family and there are instances where they still expect me to live like their son. For a long time I hid my identity from them for the sake of their reputation. But in the end I finally realised that this would just cause me more pain and my mental health degraded. I finally came to the conclusion that they couldn’t control the way I was. When I went against their will, they cut ties with me. My mother and sisters supported me during the process. During the course of time, when I started becoming known because of the Lakme Fashion Week, my family and village have come to terms with my identity and are making an effort to be approving.

You were rejected in Nepal even though it is considered to be a country where LGBTQ is progressive but Mumbai gave you a platform in the Lakme Fashion Weak. How do you feel about that?

There is a lot of unity in Nepal, when it comes to LGBTQ. In India there are people who want to support and promote the community as well but they lack harmony. There isn’t much of a difference amongst the two countries but somehow in Nepal, you see that positivity. But opportunities were available in Mumbai. I had no idea about the consequences after the show; I didn’t think it would garner so much attention towards the issue but it did, and that too in an encouraging manner.

How were you supporting yourself financially after having no strings with your family and before entering the industry?

When I disclosed my identity in 2005, I worked in a restaurant in Kathmandu as a waiter. And I was a constant there till 2016. And I earned enough to suffice for a living.

What are the challenges trans models face in the fashion industry?

I feel that everyone faces difficulties wherever they go irrespective of their gender or job. But if I had to choose one such challenge, it would be my identity.

People keep saying that they are completely okay with me being a transgender, but in reality they still fear us and keep their distance. There are so many shows which have rejected me because of my identity. Even though I walked for Lakme Fashion Week, it isn’t enough to survive in a city like Mumbai.

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Left: Embelished Turtle Neck Dress by Saaksha & Kinni Embelished Denim Jacket

by Sameer Madan Right: Embelished Collared Shirt by Sameer Madan Trench Coat by Marks & Spencer

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Silver Dress by J’SENSQI Maroon Dress by Gauri & 42 Issue Jan 2018 Nainika for #1 Koovs

There are very few trans models who have made it so big. Being in India where people still have an orthodox mentality, how does the industry treat you in that aspect?

No one has ever come up to me and said something harsh directly. But there have been times, where other models have faced homophobia in the industry.

Sometimes models hide their true identity so that they can stick around in the show.

If you could wear the same thing every day, what would it be?

That is toughest question to answer. I love wearing something new every time.

I want to try wearing different designers in the future. But if I had to choose one such outfit, I would go with a loose one piece dress. Those are easy to wear and really low maintenance.

Which fashion icon has played a role in your sense of style?

Adriana Lima. I just really love her.

Did you realise you want to be a model after the transitions or was it always on your mind?

It wasn’t my childhood aspiration. Honestly, it just sort of happened. When I came to the city, everyone who crossed my path would tell me that I had the features of a model. My close friends and companions encouraged me to give it a shot in modelling. So for their sake I kept trying and one fine day I got the opportunity to walk on a runway. That bought out the model in me.

In neighbouring India, transgender have also long complained of discrimination and marginalisation. They are recognised as a third gender but are often shunned from society with some forced into begging or prostitution.

How do you think this is changing within time with regards to the community?

These factors are visible in India on a daily basis. These practices are happening since a long time and it will take time to put it behind us. Obviously the activities cannot stop in a day but I really want to see a better place for us in the future. I personally just want the transgender’s to receive equal treatment to that of everyone else. I hope, in the future, our community gets the high level education, we desire. I want us to get good jobs and work for the society.

What does beauty mean to you?

I feel there are two kinds of beauty, one which we see and the other which we feel. The one which we see are based on the physical attributes of an individual.

While the one which we feel comes from within. Both play a role in our lives. For me beauty comes from actions. When someone gives out a helping hand and doesn’t think ill of others, I feel that’s the greatest beauty.

Is there something you would like to share with the younger audience who are struggling with their identity?

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Whatever you are and where ever you come from, just be true to yourself. If you really want to achieve your goal, you can’t do that being someone else because that way you are putting in half your efforts in being someone you are not and the other half on your purpose. So to reach your target, you need to put in your entire mind to that. Keep trying, making mistakes and moving ahead. If you feel you aren’t moving forward with your goal, trace where you went wrong and work on it. Listen to people’s opinions. They might help you sore high. Don’t feel shy or awkward to get help and be hospitable to others as well.

What do you want to tell to people of faith who do not understand what it means to be transgender, or still hold onto misinformation and stereotypes?

No matter how much we try to change their mentality, they will always remain firm on their thinking. But I would still like to say we are human beings just like you. Our appearance and mind shouldn’t be the factors that differentiate us from you. And even though people try bringing us down, we stand here strong and together, being honest to our beliefs. We won’t be begging for love and support.

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RANDOMS Amy Winehouse Photographed by Ankita Nevrekar Styling by Divya Israni, Meenakshi Kothari and Honey Kothari Model : Jesslina Nayyar MUA : Valene Dsouza Hairstylist : Arshi Syed Bodysuit by Nidhi Munim

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Tisca Chopra The Modern Indian Exclusive INTERVIEW BY AANSHI GUPTA

Breaking bad, Acting and Life.

Tisca Chopra is known for her intelligent roles and has chosen to be part of stories that she believes need telling. She has acted in a vast number of feature films, in different languages with many eminent directors. Taare Zameen Par’, her best known feature film, where she plays Ishaan Awasthi’s (Darsheel Safary) mother, was India’s official entry to the Academy Awards.

To start with, one question you absolutely hate in interviews?

There are lot of them but since I can only choose one, it’s when people ask me “How much did you enjoy while shooting?” I hate that question because shooting is not really meant for enjoyment; its work. It really is a pet peeve.

Is the actor born with skills or the age of fancy acting schools work? Please share your views as you are one the actors who indulges the life of the character.

None of the mentioned. At least that is what I think. According to me, it’s a lot of passion and some natural and emotional intelligence.

Which side do you think an actor should lean - underplay or overplay? Since big Bollywood names have already picked theirs.

I think just ‘play’ works. Whatever is right, the role should just bring out the emotional truth. Every actor perceives that truth differently so there is no question or underplay or overplay. It is how the actor feels; how they will be able to unravel the character’s truth with regards to the situation. It’s what appeals to them and their own personality that comes into play.

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Dress - fancy pants Belt - shien.com Earrings - Zara Shoes - Sophie Webster

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Outfit - Punit Balana Earrings - Aldo Belt - Veromoda

‘Taare Zameen Par’ completed 10 years this December. As an actor, how did ‘Taare Zameen Par’ become a part of your growth?

It is the first film that got me noticed on a very large scale. That was what the film did for me. I have done different roles and different things before as well but that is the movie that got me recognition.

What makes you decide you want to take a character?

The story has to work over all. If the story works, the second thing I look into is the role. You always want to tell that story and want to believe in the narrative of that story. The message brings out a lot of emphasis.

What was the most challenging part about your role in ”Chhuri”?

Since we wrote it ourselves; I was one of the writers of the film, it’s a very cunning-cheeky kind of a plot. The idea was to be able to play that part with a poker face. I had to play it straight without giving a hint of what is about to come.

Do you prefer short films story telling as a medium over a full format? If yes, why?

No certainly not. I prefer a good story. The story will decide what the format is; be it long or short.

This year short films and digitap content did much better that conventional commercial Cinema. Is Indian Cinema changing? And why?

I think the audience’s tastes are changing. Indian cinema per se is not changing fast enough. People are watching two kinds of contents; micro content, which is short films and small episodes of the series. The other one would be binge watching; they watch five to six hours of one of their favourite shows. Hindi films will always stay because that’s part of our culture in a way but I think people will start consuming more and more films at their own convenience and it will not be in cinemas so much. It will be larger scale n digital spaces than individual or private screens.

Which artists inspire you and you binge watch their work?

Benedict Cumberbatch and Martin Freeman from the ‘Sherlock’ series. I love their work. I was an addictive fan of Breaking Bad. As far as films go, Meryl Streep will remain an eternal favourite.

What’s the last full format movie you watched and why did you choose to watch it?

I watched ‘Anarkali of Arah’ with Swara Bhaskar. I heard so much about that film, I really wanted to see it and I loved her alongside Pankhaj Tripathi in it. I also watched Newton.

What do you like to do when you are not shooting? Of course, apart from being with your beautiful family.

I spend quite a bit of time on writing because we are developing two feature films, one web series, so there is a lot content I work on. I like reading scripts as well but these are all work related. For leisure I love listening to music; I really

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unwind with music. I love reading off-work as well. A book is always welcoming from me. I am always carrying a couple of books around with me, wherever I am.

What’s your philosophy towards work, family, creativity and life in general?

YOLO. Do you think that an artist, including yourself, has to be liberal, to get the grasp of the society?

My personal opinion is that art is always holding a mirror up to society. If society doesn’t like some of its own parts; art is holding that up for them to reflect it back and show them what is happening in the world. If you curb the whole form of art, it’s a fictional account and you always have the choice to not go see that piece of work. So it’s important that we maintain certain openness and lack of censorship towards art because that’s where we get a true reflection of society.

If you had to change one thing in our society, (even through your acting) what would that be? Something actually possible.

I think I would look at removing the gender bias. I would very much like for us to have a balanced approach towards women and men. That is one thing which is very crappy about our society.

Does being a known face stop you from doing something you really like?

Never. I never let it stop me. I continue doing whatever I want to do.

One thing you’d be doing if you weren’t an artist?

I would be an artist of a different kind. I’d probably be a writer.

What makes you feel accomplished? Quantification doesn’t matter.

I wouldn’t call it accomplishment. I don’t think anything makes you feel accomplished because that is an ongoing process. I’d rather say there are a few things that bring me fulfilment. What fulfils me is getting the truth of a character, getting a scene right when I’m writing, answering my five year old daughter’s tough questions; when she asks questions about the work and how it functions, I will give her an answer that helps her imagine the world in a better way and spending time with my husband as well.

In the sense of career, if you could do it all over again, would you want to change anything?

Yes, I would’ve have liked producing earlier. ***

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Shirt - Six Buttons Down Suit - Rajat Tangri 51 Earrings- Zara

Photo gra phed by Sukir a n Sing h S ty lin g by W ho Wo re W ha t W hen Ma k eup by Nit i G o enka Ha i r by M a yur i Na li MUA A s s i s ta nc e by P r a t iksha Na ir Co nc ept by A a nshi G up t a Re touc h i ng by A mr it sa r i P ho t o g r a p h y Sho t a t W TF ! Ver so va

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Jacket - Esse Jumpsuit - Veromoda Earrings - Aldo Shoes - Zara

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PHENOMENON THAT SHAPE US

Volume 1.

By Simarjot Wadhwa

Cumbersome and subtle is the journey from being an ordinary to the Phenomenon – perhaps a voyage to seek the expedient or an ongoing quest?

The inquisitive instinct juggles to find out whether the phenomenon are the destined or the created ones. The answer to it may be apprehensive but undoubtedly, the phenomenon among you and me are the unprecedented living examples who remain undefeated, young at heart and are true triumphs in all its sense.

PROF. MOHINDER SINGH GROVER, Amritsar An awe-inspiring, intellectual and remarkable persona; a simple, gentle and humble human being brims with optimism, zeal and vigor. Though physically weak yet an exalted figure, a progressive mind with the heart of a lion king. For him, ’PAST IS PASSE`. FUTURE IS BECKONING. PRESENT IS THE TIME AND LIVE IN THE PRESENT. ‘ A believer in ‘Human Revolution’ and ‘Old Order Changeth ’was born on 3rd March 1931 in Amritsar_ the eldest among 8 siblings shouldered his responsibilities since very young age. Like an iron man, he never succumbed to the ordeals of life. At the age of 86, he stands tall and is a stalwart for the younger generation.

CHILDHOOD NOSTALGIA His childhood memories are an amalgamation of highs and lows Though the demise of his grandparents and his younger sister created a vacuum yet the love and affection showered on him by his foster grandmother (paternal aunt) is mesmerizing and overwhelming. He cherishes being the darling child of the family.

AN INDELLIBLE IMPRESSION Recalling his initial years of his schooling, he credits his grade one teacher the most for influencing and moulding his personality. He states, ‘whatever I can, I am and I have been, is just because of him. His impression is the lasting impression.’ This unparalleled and benevolent teacher has been an indispensable and integral part of his life through out. He performed academically well and could clear his grades with flying colours.

THE DARK PERIOD 1947—A horrendous period. Just two days before his matriculation result, partition of India shook the very existence of the Punjab. The demons danced and the devils roared. Arson. looting, bloodshed gripped the nation. Amidst this mayhem, his hopes of pursuing medical career dashed. The devastation loomed large as the registrar of the Punjab University, Lahore was assassinated, the hall

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the hall and examination papers were burnt to ashes. There were no results – a dismal situation and an emotional collapse. The suffering, pain and misery hovered over yet there was determination and zeal to let the sun dispel the darkness and illuminate the lives.

THE BUILDING UP OF THE PHENOMENON During those tempestuous times, he rendered social service at refugee camps for three months that led to the matriculation certificate. Frustration seeped in but the constant struggle with life paved the way for a job as an assistant at a chemist shop that fetched him a meagre salary of Rs. 40. One and a half years later, his labour resulted in getting him Rs.150. Forging with a stand- alone spirit, he initiated a venture of purchasing and selling medicines in local market in 1951. This got a setback as the panic prevailed due to a threat of war by Pakistan. He resumed his education and completed his graduation via honours in Punjabi (Gyani) and later enhanced his education by doing Masters. He kept on wading his way through turbulent waters and never felt defeated. He took private classes and taught English and Political Science; went for home tutoring on his bicycle; slogged from dawn to dusk and with complete commitment and devotion, supported his family consisting of 8 siblings.

INFLUENCE OF FREEDOM MOVEMENT As a young boy, the National Heroes like Mahatma Gandhi, Pt. Jawaharlal Nehru and Shaheed Bhagat Singh, Shahnawaz of INA left a deep impact on his psychology. He insisted his parents on getting Khadi clothes in class 9th. The time was 1945 and the whole nation was engulfed with zeal, enthusiasm and an urge for a free nation. This didn’t leave him untouched and ignited a deep desire to join politics. He got closer to the ideology of Communist Party and eventually joined it. He strengthened himself in various activities, he was eloquent, remained active on the intellectual front and was fully involved in INDO SOVIET CULTURAL SOCIETY but simultaneously, he continued studying and working. In 1956, he left the party but remained a firm believer of the ideology of communism which emphasized on equality.

NUPTIAL KNOT AND THE CAREER OPPERTUNITIES 1957 was the year of marriage. 60 years of association with Smt. Tejpal Kaur has been invigorating. She has always been through his thick and thin and in his own words, she has been “Rock of the Gibraltar”. He got job offers from Germany, Canada, Moscow but his responsibilities back home were his foremost concerns.

His father was uneducated but a compassionate person. His ethos never allowed him to banish his duties towards his family members and he opted to let go these opportunities. He stood like a colossus and even now the feeble body has not dissuaded him from his vision.

PHYSICAL AILMENT There came the time in 1977 where the heart problem emerged which didn’t lead to major hindrance but did impact the daily life. But 2003 had something drastic stored for him, his wife; his brother and his wife. It was a mere miracle that saved him from the clutches of eternity where he met with a severe accident

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with multiple fractures. The whole system was jeopardized. But the iron like man faced the challenges with utmost brevity. To add to the agony, he suffered a major cardiac arrest where there was no alternative left except to go for bypass surgery. Nonetheless, the bones in his legs were joined by screws and nails. During his operation, screws from his right leg loosened and got displaced resulting into shortening of his leg by 3-4 inches. He was again operated for thigh bone in November. Many people become disheartened with such consequences but his strong will never let him stumble. Rather, this was the clarion bell for him that boosted him to the path of new heights and glory.

PROFESSIONAL GROWTH Sometimes, the Heavens usher their blessings on those who persevere and at the same time acknowledge the gratitude they owe to others. 1989 saw a wave ebbing but rising the other moment culminating into an institution named SRI GURU TEGH BAHADUR COLLEGE FOR WOMEN - an all girls’ private college affiliated to GURU NANAK DEV UNIVERSITY. Prof. Mohinder Singh became the founder principal of the institution but couldn’t continue to be on the post. since then he is genuinely dedicated to the cause of education and work as a professor. Running 86, resolute and determined but never disparaging. He is the General Secretary of the Management Committee but his decorum, humility and compassion enriches him and his environment.

PROGRESSIVE PERSPECTIVE His appreciation towards technology and certain positive changes creates a niche in the minds of youth. He is one notch up his contemporaries when he believes evolution is mandatory. So he doesn’t have any qualms and believes that living in the past cannot sustain life .

THE REVELATION The force that steers him through is,” DESIRE TO LIVE AND LIVE A NORMAL HAPPY LIFE. DON’T WANT TO DIE IN BED. DO WHATEVER LITTLE POSSIBLE FOR THE SOCIETY. CONTINUE SUPPORTING THE FAMILY IN ALL POSSIBLE MEANS. DON’T WANT TO BE A BURDEN. NOT BOTHERED HOW MUCH TIME TO SURVIVE BUT WANT TO SPEND QUALITY TIME AND AT THE SAME TIME VERY POSITIVELY”.

NOBLE AND SUBLIME GENEROSITY dwells in him when he humbly utters ‘I am not an ambitious man.

I have not done much to be proud of. But I am satisfied.’ His words reflect his enlightened state when he says,’ I have a supportive family; my wife, children and grandchildren. The environment generated in the family is conducive to my keeping afloat. ‘He believes orthodox views and superstitions to bury in desert.

He is a democrat at heart, supports liberal views and promotes communal harmony.

THE DREAM ENTIRE WORLD SHOULD BE A PLACE TO LIVE PEACEFULLY AND HAPPILY.

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VISION LIFE IS COLORFUL AND INTERSTING. EACH MOMENT SHOULD BE ENJOYED. THE RENDERING OF THE QUOTE : PAL BHAR KO AATE AATE RUKI HOGI BAHAAR PAL BHAR KO JATA JATE KHIZAN THAHARI HOGI . ***

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Shot by Sukiran Singh

BOBO DA

THE NEW AGE COMPOSER

BY JUHI ALI

The name Amartya Rahut might not ring a bell in most minds, But there isn’t a person who wouldn’t have heard at least one of his many works on TV, which range from the jingle for Cadbury’s Perk to Colors Channel Signature Tune. Popularly known by all as Bobo, hails from the laid back city of Kolkata . Because he knew he had to take his art to places, he opted for finding a bigger canvas. And decided to shift base to Mumbai in the year 2001. He has been working in the industry since.

How did you get the name Bobo?

My other names are a little bit complicated so even if they start calling me by name, they end up calling me Bobo, so it stuck like that.

You started your career at the age of 15. What made move forward with this profession from such a young age?

I was actually playing professionally playing the guitar from the young age of fourteen. By the time I was twenty, I realised that by the end of the day Calcutta was only a regional scene so I thought might as well try my luck in Bombay.

For the longest time you were in Kolkata performing with legendary bands.

How did that happen and what were your experiences like?

The experience was great because, even at those times, the Bengali bands especially, used to only play their music and there was a huge audience for that.

It is still the same way no as well. I was half a decent guitar player and I used to play one or two shows for the bands. I used to play with all the seniors who are really great musicians.

Was coming to Mumbai a very abrupt decision or something you intended on?

I intended on coming but the initial days were really rough. Bombay was always on the agenda because I didn’t want to stick around in Calcutta. Back there you

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are only catering a small number of audiences. Nothing against that, but from Bombay, everything you do, whether it is advertising or television brings you out in the national and international market.

How were your initial years in the industry like?

Very tough. There were six to seven people in one room. My father had passed away at a very young age so I had to support my mother. It was very hard. The first four years were excruciating bad, when we talk about it financially.

You’ve been composing for some of the biggest ad films and done over 2500 ads till date, give us an insight about your process with jingles and channel tunes?

Jingles, advertising as we call it, is the toughest job on the planet. Although people from the audiences who are not from our line might just skip the advertisement as it is playing, but scoring for a television commercial is more challenging. You land up on a day to day studio, see a thirty to fifty second clip, you only get that much time and you have to complete it by evening because the agency of the client is on top of your head. You need to have a really good command over the different genres because on any given day, you might be asked to do anything. You just cannot be genre specific. It’s definitely been a great and proud learning experience.

How does it differ from each other, when you compose something for an ad and a signature channel tunes?

Channel tunes are tough in the sense your thinking has to be a little bit different because, television commercial mostly, when it is specific time based ad, you know it’s timeline. For example the IPL, the ad will last for three months. Channel tunes if good, may last for twenty to thirty years. Those notes and melodies have to be really strong because they might stick for long. It should have a unique sound. It just can’t sound boring after a year. I haven’t done that many channel signature tunes, but I did work for Colours which is still popular and still running.

You won a bronze at Cannes advertising festival for your Levi’s advert, what was the inspiration behind that soundtrack?

There was no inspiration. JWP was the agency. Unfortunately many people don’t know but the agency collects all the awards. So I don’t really have the award with me. But I may be wrong (laughs). It was an international campaign and initially a big composer from London was supposed to do it. The agency didn’t like it and they were in a rush to send it for a competition so they gave it to some people who were locals from Bombay. The advertising agencies got involved that way. The agency later approached me and I composed in a short period of time, somehow. The film was very unique and luckily they were impressed. After a year, I learnt that they won the bronze medal which was really good.

When did you decide to make the shift to movies? What was the driving source?

I have been trying to do movies for long. It’s not that I’ve not been very successful. The thing that happened was, I was so busy with ad films. From 2005 to

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Bobo Da Interview

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2015, I haven’t really pursued films. When I was working on the AXE deodorant ad, and the director was making a film, he wanted to work with me. Some films were nice while some were not as they didn’t get promoted or were not commercial. Recently, since a year, I have drifted away from advertisements. Now I am focusing on film because at a point you realise that you can’t do both. Both of them have different mind sets.

How was your experience with YRF? Since my childhood, I have bought tickets in black money. Seeing the YRF logo and then you get a chance to talk to Aditya Chopra who is such a nice man, who won’t intimidate you even though he is such a popular figure. He will take your opinions and take your points into consideration.

You’ve also composed for Uttarayan and the music Evadhasa in Marathi which got a lot of acclaim and awards. Tell us how those projects came into being.

Bipin Nadkarni who is the director of Uttarayan is one of the most humble people I know. I was doing ads for him. The project did very well but unfortunately that was just the pre digital era so it was a cutting edge at that time. It was a really different kind of mainstream Marathi film. Now you see Marathi films making their way to the audience. But I still get call and messages on Facebook about the album, on how it has given a rise to cults.

Your band “Om” released one album which was extremely critically acclaimed, are there any more projects with the band in the future?

Not really. Back then if you knew Amit Trivedi, who is very popular now; we used to work together in advertising for a long time. I used to compose the songs for ‘Om’ and Amit would produce the tracks. We were really busy in advertising back in the day. That was the phase where we had to establish ourselves. Time management became a problem. The amount of time we were giving compared to the other guys, who were also in different fields, just wasn’t working out. So we decided not to move ahead with any new project and put a stop right there.

You’ve worked and collaborated with a lot of artists like Amit Trivedi, Shilpa Rao and Amitabh Bhattacharya. How was the experience, collaborating with them?

I wouldn’t call it collaborating because Amit Trivedi and Amitabh Bhattacharya are my closest friends in Bombay. We have been friends from the time I have come to the city. All of us were literally ‘nobodies’. Even with Shilpa, I knew her when she just came to Bombay. Collaboration would be when you are working with someone who is established and you come in the same category as well.

We are more like friends that way. Amitabh is legend now. He is one of the biggest lyricist. Everybody know Amit as well.

How did you land Aurangzeb?

Aurangzeb, I landed coincidently. Aditya Chopra and Atul Sbarwal; the director, who I knew from before because of one of the films he was going work on in the past. I was supposed to work alongside as well but that film didn’t take off. Atul

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Atul later got signed by Yashraj. Aurangzeb didn’t have songs initially. They needed one promo song and they had a big deadline where they had to shoot it in two weeks. The only problem was, they didn’t have a song in mind. They went to many composers in the industry but nothing came out of that. Luckily Atul knew me so he rang me up.

Is there any difference when you compose for Hindi and Marathi films?

At the moment I don’t think so. Probably ten years ago, there was. I think now its modelled mainstream. Well, at least from the posters put up. I don’t think there is much of a difference except from the language. And even though I am a Bengali, I have never found any problem in composing for other languages. Any language which you don’t know, phonetically get a different sound. Leave it to the lyricist to take care of the thought and the concept. But being a composer, it gets more fun and pushes you to try something new along with experimenting. I probably find it more interesting that the Hindi songs I have composed.

Do you have a team of people you usually carry forward a collaboration?

Yeah. There is a guy called Shubu who helps me with mixing. Siddhant works on the lyrics. There are a couple of musicians as well who play. There is a fixed team because the vibe is all set.

Where do you seek inspiration for music for movies and ads?

If you call yourself a composer especially for movies, it should come naturally. I don’t really take inspiration but what I try to do is take a lot of experience.

That is very important and somehow Bombay gets to you in that way. Every 2-3 months I try take a couple of days off and just go out and live it. That rejuvenates me to create something new.

What do you think are the most important things in a song that can attract the audience and make it to the top of the charts?

I don’t know if I am the right person to say anything with regards to this context as none of my songs have made it to the top yet. But I think there are two aspects to song that actually get it up there. It’s either a love song or a dance song. Situational song normally don’t make their way on top. One, it shouldn’t sound like a template that you’ve heard before. You need to have at least 2% of originality. If it is a love song it needs some soul. It needs to connect with the audience.

Name some artists/bands that have really inspired you?

I am a huge fan of Sachin Dev Burman; I think he was the most original composers of all time. A.R Rahman obviously makes it to the list. Although we are really good friends, I am a huge fan of Amit Trivedi. He’s got a very different mind. He was like this even when we used to work together. Shankar-Ehsaan-Roy; they are the peak.

We have read that you really like The Beatles. How has their music made a difference and played a role in your tracks as they are such a known band to experiment with different genres?

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I don’t know if they have inspired me to play songs. Although I am an obsessed Beatles fan; I know their history, I still don’t remember half the lyrics or half the chords of their song. It’s really is surprising, being a musician and when you jam.

Everyone finds it very amusing. They are just pure love for me but what I take back from them is the originality of a song. I witness a lot of that feeding into my work in the past couple of years. Now days anyone just picks up the guitar and labels himself as a composer. It’s a tough job but no one wants to be a wicket keeper anymore. They don’t want to try the new things. They directly want to take over the position of the batsman without working or giving a shot at the other opportunities. It doesn’t work that way. That is why you find a lot of similarities amongst artists.Presently, the value of originality has degraded; you see a lot of old songs compiled with remixes. It just seems so demeaning, honestly.

You’ve been in the industry for a long time now and seen your share of ups and downs, what motivates you?

I think I have a lot to offer as a composer. I probably have around 30 songs to give to the world. My friends who are very successful, they motivate me.

Do you think singers/composers get their due share of credit? How does it differ from other professions in the industry?

You obviously get credit. Singers do a lot of shows and make money. Yes, we may not get the royal title, but Javed Akhtar Ji has been fighting for us. He is doing the impossible. It is definitely tough because talent is like any sport. Probably there is a time frame to your peak or the level of success you, once achieve it. If I go back to advertising and try to achieve the same kind of success, it won’t be possible as there will be new people with new ideas. It’s the same with song-making.

How do you think composing has evolved over the years?

If you ask me, it was much better before. A lot of people think it is a very easy job but it isn’t. If you want to write something, you can scribble down the first thing that pops in your head. But that won’t stand out. You really need to put a lot of emphasis on the arrangement of your songs. Not every random song gets to become a hit. It needs to have a flavour and originality.

With a lot of amateur artist trying to make their way in the industry and a lot of competition getting in their way, what is that one piece of advice you would like to share with them?

Figure out your calling first. Whether you are a guitarist, music arranger or a composer, whatever it may be. Once you do that, it will become a lot easier. Because if you are only a professional guitar player, no one will be able to play like you. If you play better than me, I would come to you for the tunes rather than me wasting time with the same instrument. If you really think you have a shot at it even with all the competition around, go ahead because that is the one thing that will give you name. ***

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“A dream you dream alone is only a dream. A dream you dream together is reality.�

-John Lennon

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Pho t o g r a phed by Sukiran Singh Sty l i n g by Aanshi Gupta, Juhi Ali Mak e u p a nd Ha ir by Arshi Sayed

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THE MAN WITH THE GOLDEN PEN

AMITABH BHATTACHARYA PHOTOGRAPHY AND INTERVIEW BY SUKIRAN SINGH. INTERVIEW CONDUCTED BY JUHI ALI

Amitabh Bhattacharya came to Mumbai in 1999 to be a playback singer. But his professional career took a dramatic detour when the songs written by him for Aamir and Dev.D. we see his work in films such as Udaan (2010), Band BaajaBaaraat (2010), Agneepath (2012), YehJawaani Hai Deewani (2013), Lootera (2013) and Chennai Express (2013) having been appreciated all around.

When we were sourcing clothes for your shoot a lot of brands refused to contribute saying that they’ve not heard of you. Being a National Award winner and one of the lyrical geniuses of our time, do you think this happened because you are a really private person or because of the classism present towards Desi musicians?

I don’t think it is the leverage. Probably the former because I am a very low profile person. I am not really out there in the public scene or active on social media. I do have a Facebook account but I’m not even there on twitter or Instagram so I don’t blame people who don’t know about me. I am not some big star who is always out there in the limelight. And the other part of it is that although I’ve won the Nation Award or any other award for that matter, that really doesn’t bring people to notice your name and also lyricist are usually people who work behind the scenes. Nobody often knows about them that much. Like in our times Javed Sahab was famously known otherwise people only know them if they have a face attached to their name or a public reputation. But in my case, people might have heard or seen me on the TV screens but they have not no idea who I am. And that probably the fact why they feel like they don’t want to waste their time on someone they are not familiar with.

Why do tracks in Urdu and Punjabi seem politer and soulful, especially when they come from you?

In general if we speak, Urdu is a language which sounds very classy and polished that brings a certain attitude. That really is one of the most unique traits of the language. Talking about Punjabi, something that I personally feel is that the language itself has got a very earthy, honest and personal feel and sound to it. When you say something in English and then translate the same sentence to Punjabi, it seems very hearty and personal. It just sounds exotic. It works well with all forms of music and blends with any style. I don’t think that they only

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sound good when they come from me. Not to mention I don’t write clear Punjabi. You can say that I write Hindi and garnish it with Punjabi. The credit just goes out to the languages itself.

Being a Bengali, how does Punjabi come so naturally?

Although I am a Bengali, I grew up in Lucknow so I speak proper Hindi. That is my first language, you can say. I went to an English medium school but Hindi is the language I grew up speaking. As far as Punjabi is concerned, it is just whatever I have heard through old songs in films or the friends who know the language. I hear them speak and that’s how I grab it. One of the advantages of Punjabi is the grammatical structure and the usage is absolutely like Hindi. If you listen to the language constantly for a couple of days, you will be able to grab it.

What is the one thing that inspires you to come out of bed and create new music?

Off late, I am just like an ordinary person, who wants to stay in bed for a longer time. This is my 10th year in the industry so I guess its more of the opportunities and ideas that have come up is what is pushing me forward. There are so many things to still try. You don’t want to follow the same drill over and over again.

Lately I am really excited about projects which have situations to offer that I have never tried earlier. Like in Dangal, all the songs were different from one another.

If something like that comes up again, I look forward to working on the music.

Many of your songs have a gut wrenching emotion, tell us about the last minute mind preparation before you start writing such a piece?

As far as lyrics is concerned, there is no so called preparation. There is no formula or procedure attached to it. For me, whatever I write, comes for the story and the character’s situation and emotion. The primary focus for me is the melody.

I came to Bombay with the hopes of becoming a singer and writing was never on the agenda. Writing is something that happened on the way. For me a good melody gets my thoughts going.

Is being liberal important for one to be a true artist as the world has made us believe?

Absolutely. The more liberal you are at heart and mind, it opens you up better for your art.

Do you think marijuana should be legal?

I don’t use marijuana and I never have in the pat as well. The only indulgence of intoxication that I have is a little bit of alcohol. So something that I do not use, I’d rather leave the question to the people who do.

Have you ever danced on your own tunes alone or cried while listening to ‘ChannaMereya’ like everyone else has?

There are time where I just quietly listen to my own songs. I don’t do it for the reason to analyse it or revisit the process it took to make it. I just listen to it for the pleasure. As far as dancing is concerned, there are few of my songs I just play one of those trophy songs of mine with a beer and let my feet dance to it.

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Suit- Herringbone and Sui Shirt- Indian Terrain Pocket SquareRajesh Pratap Singh Shoes-Herringbone 71 and Sui

Shirt: Zara, Pants and Pullover: Indian Terran, Blazer: Rajesh Pratap Singh

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I have not specifically cried on Channa Mereya but there are a few other songs to make that list. Sometimes I personally feel low and melancholy, I have heard these songs and found a different emotion.

We know you can’t differentiate between you music as they are your babies, but which is the one song you like the least?

That’s tough to say. On the contrary if you ask people, they might categorise songs. For me, it is a craft and I consider myself at times more of a technician than an artist. I get very technically involved. The drill that I go through for writing songs like Chikni Chameli or Gandi Baat, the process is just as equal as I write for Channa Mereya or Emotional Attyachaar. The process that I have created is very dear to me so in turn all these songs are dear to me.

Do you listen to a lot of English music?

I do. I haven’t grown up on English music I was exposed to International music after I came to Bombay. The music I heard growing up and was influenced by was all the filmy music. After I came to Bombay and started meeting people, I started getting exposed to music worldwide. That is when I realised that all these years of growing up, there are so many amazing stuff that I missed out on.

After that I starting opening my mind to all kinds of music. I’ve heard so many artists now. Off late I really enjoy listening to John Meyer, Adelle, Coldplay and Ed Sheeran. I have also taken another aspect of it. When we talk about my listening pleasure, I really like French music and Latin tunes. Acoustic beats really get me. I like to listen to a new language in tunes.

Which artists are you favourite?

Well nationally, it has to be Kishore Kumar, LataMangeshkar, AashaBhosle, Magan Mohan, Jagjeet Singh. I really love The Beatles. I have every album of theirs and it is just amazing. A lot Elvis is in my collection. Then there are The Eagles, Seal, Bryan Adams and the list may just go on and on.

What do you think of EDM? I personally feel that EDM work better in the western setup. When we have something to do with EDM, after a time it becomes very monotonous. They all sound the same and somehow you feel we are force fitting the tunes into our melody. And if we are speaking generally, I think that I can enjoy it for only a limited period of time.

The strangest brief you ever had to work on for a track?

I can’t think of anything in particular. But there have been quite a few of them.

The lyrics keep evolving over time. Where do you think the lyrics in Indian music are evolving towards? What the future of content?

That is tough to say but one thing that I can surly put forward is the expressions in our language, have definitely evolved and they have become more realistic.

There was a time when communication through music would have been because of the literal value and its standard. Somewhere or the other you would feel like there was a set pattern with a lot of clichéd things to say about one’s feelings.

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Bandhgala: Rajesh Pratap Singh

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Over the past fifteen years though, I feel that lyrics have become more believable. In present, lyrics justify the character.

Would work on a track which is a favourite of Indian film makers especially if it is with one of the biggest composers ad a lot of finance is involved?

What matters to me in this situation is the word play and the idea. If its vulgar, cheap or derogatory to an individual, it is avoidable. But if it is something really smart and comes across as an intelligent piece of thought, I don’t mind working.

Did you ever feel the musical nirvana at a musical session or collaboration.

Something that you thing was a piece of genius writing?

I have not stumbled on the nirvana yet but I feel that the process of any creativity has a medium. There are certain really enlighten moments where great ideas come to me. It always keeps varying. But if anyone did achieve this attainment through their work, it really is something that will open their souls.

What’s the catch phrase that you use the most when something exciting happens?

There isn’t a particular catch phrase but whenever I get too excited there is always a slang in the sentence (laughs). But I don’t use a ‘Eureka’ or something like that.

What does struggle mean to you?

Struggle to me, I think is an endless process. Life has it’s phases and with the course of time the intensity of the struggle changes. At one point of time you are struggling for the very basic things in life, then you even struggle with your identity, and when you find yourself, you struggle to maintain what you are. After a point you struggle to evolve and get better.

What is the one thing you would say to people who are coming to the city of magic and struggling?

I feel every person who comes here and thrives is a learner. It is very case specific. I think the only thing I can say is stay positive. If you are really confident of your talent and you think you have what it takes, then be positive and give it your best shot. This city is really the land of opportunities and has a place for everyone. At any point in your life, do not shut your mind and heart. Don’t close yourself to one category. Be open to the change in times because that is the only way you will grow and move along with time otherwise you will become irrelevant and people will forget you one day.

What does love mean to you?

There is a bigger picture to love. Ultimately I feel that love is the core emotion that drives human beings. It’s something that gives us our identity. Being able to love, is what we have been gifted with. Then there are various degrees to love. I honestly don’t think I have been able to fully understand love between man and woman but I have come to the conclusion is that idealistic terms as we say ‘if you love someone truly, let them go’ I think that it is true for someone who has attained it.

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You are one of the most humblest people in the industry but has there ever been a time where your ego ever come in the middle of your work and fluttered a situation for you?

It never has; for two reasons. Where can your ego in my line of work possibly come? If my team doesn’t accept my work or don’t like my concept, and I bring in my ego, that will just show them and myself about how I am not willing to push forward with new opportunities. I feel I’m too compassionate as a human being to bring egos in between and discriminate between people. I just feel it is a matter of time where someone one will reach the place where I am today just like the same way I was down and struggling like them at a point of time. What can I possibly be possessive about?

When do you think a person is truly illuminated?

When the person has totally overcome their insecurities and know you have nothing to lose in life, and as they say your spirit, heart, mind and body have achieved whatever they want, it would be the ideal state. ***

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Shirt and Blazer: Herringbone and Sui, Pants: Indian Terrian

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INTERNATIONAL ARTIST

WEZ M.IND MAG INTERVIEW

& TOUCH YOU THERE PHENOMENON

We absolutely loved the track- Touch you there from Wez, a soul touching track.

It became the most listened song on M.IND Mag in November.

So we really wanted to know more about the man himself. Here’s a short interview with the man.

For our audiences that don’t know much about you, where are you from?

Tell us your story.

Yo, I specialize in dance music and getting the clubs jumping. Exerting my energy on to the audience. I grew up around a lot of rap and my friends are into rap.

When all my friends were doing rap, I did dance. When everyone goes right I go left.

How did you enter the world of music?

I had an idea to be more behind the scenes as I loved music but ended up being at the forefront. Going to festivals and watching live performances made me realize what I wanted to do. I wanted to be on stage and command the crowd, control their emotions.

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What kinda music inspires you?

Prodigy, Kanye West, Travis Scott but also, I am an RNB man as I love the ladies, new school like Bryson tiller but also old school Usher and Michael Jackson as well.

Your favorites artists of today are?

J Hus, he has opened up a path through a genre. My fav artist of all time is 2pac but today, right now, as we speak it would be Skepta! More than him as an artist I am a fan of him. He is different, he represents quirky individuals like me. You won’t find another Skepta.

What made you select house as a genre, as an artist?

I was always drawn towards House and Garage, I like the melodies, less aggressive more fun and happy music.

The lyrics of your track are kinda thought provoking, yet witty and well crafted. What’s your process of writing the lyrics?

You got to get into a zone, think about a real situation, it’s real thought processes. I am actually talking about a real slice of ass.

Any experimentation in plans for the next track, that we need to look for?

Of course, I am about to do some next shit.

Do you like collabs? Who would be an idle artist for a collab?

I would like to work with Pharrell, he is very quirky and his music is light, catchy, vibrant, bright like with a lot of character.

Also Diplo, love the energy its infectious.

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