Rajhasthan
Lac Bangles
Contents
Suhavi Sunderlal UGPD Level 2 Module Name - Cultiral Studies Sustainability Module Tutor - Vikas Sethi Assignment 1
1. What is sustainability? 2. Overview 3. History and Origin 4. Cultural Significance 5. Evolution 6. Making Process 7. Raw Material 8. Material Diversification 9. Design Changes 10. Usability - Medical to ornamental 11. Market 12. Competitors 13. Consumer Adoption 14. Susutainability Aspect 15. Sustainability Scorecard 16. Scope for improvement
Overview What is Sustainability? “Sustainability is the development that meets the needs of present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs.� (What is Sustainability? | UCLA Sustainability, 2020)
Lac Bangles have been in relevance since the tme of Mahabharata. Lac is generally used for making bangles with fancy coloures cut stones. Lac bangles are traditional ornaments worn by women, they are the essence of woman hood and have been prevelant tradition since ages. It is considered to have a religious cultural importance. Reference to Lac can be found in Vedas too. The ayurveda provides a detailed account of lac, its production and its uses in medical therapy. India is the largest producer of Lac bangles and and the only exporter. Apart from the bangle industry Lac is also used in food industry, textile, leather, cosmetics, varnish and printing industries. Being a bio - degradable and ecofriendly it is widely used accross india and internationally. What is Lac? Lac is a natural scarlet coloures resinous substance secreted by plant sucking insect called kerria laca. The insect makes his place on the branches of certain trees like kususm or papal and coats he whole branch with its red secretion. The branches are cut and the material is scraped off for further refinement. Over the years Lac has become a source of - resin, wax and dye.
History and Origin
Cultral Significance
In an article by Dr. P Jogi Naidu of the archeology and Museums, Andhra Pardesh, the origin of this great craft goes back to the days of Qutub Shahi era. As per the author of ”The Bangle Chaar Chaman” , Mohd. Hussain, “As trade relations between golconda and persia were cordial, a group of persians who’s main occupation was hakims and subidary was bangle came to golconda and settles there. Therefore bangle making industry started in Hyderabad during Qutub Shahi period.” (Hussain, 2017)
In the state of Rajasthan the bangles makersis mostly comprised of the muslim community who are engaged in producing bangles. The bangles are traditionally worn by Hindu married women as a symbol of marriage. The main hubs for making Lac bangles in India are Uttar Pardesh and Hyderabad. The craftsmen engaged in making Lac bangles were called as ‘lakheras’ These lac bangles were mainly wore by women of the lower class whereas ladies from the affluent families wore bangles made out of ivory.
According to a few historians it is also believed that This craft originated in Rajasthan in the 17th century at the time of Mumtaz mahal who had a liking towards beaded bangles.
However the significance has changed over the years - It is now worn by owme all over thw world as a fashion accessory, however it is also prevelent in religious aspects as women wear it on the day or their marriage.
Regardless, these bangles will always keep enticing itts users.
Evolution - Timeline
The beginning of bangles date back to Mohenjodaro time peroid where in terracota sculptures are seen.
Later shells were used to craft bangles by rubbing them on stones to give them a desired shape.
Stone bangles were carved out of a different variety of stones. From here, metals came into being. Brass was the first metal to be used to make the bangle.
Ivory Bangles were made out of tusks of elephants where were still prevelent in india as women used to wear them on the day of their marriage.
Lac bangles have been there since ancient times and it was made using insect secretion.
Humans were advanced enough to add inlay onto the metal ornamnets.
Later Cheaper alternatives were used such as steel and metal. With this Glass as well as plastic bangles came into being which were much more durable and long lasting.
After discovery of precoius metals, bangles were made of gold.
Making Process - Lac Bangle
A basic lac s heated until it is soft enough to handle and shape it.
Then the coloured lac is heated.
The coloured lac is then slowly applied onto the existing lac for more options in colour shade.
The heated lac is rolled on an iron disk keot on a charcoal stove. It is rolled with a wooden mal-
Both the ends of the bangle are then joined on a round wooden log to give it a circular loop.
Raw Materials Processed Lac This comes in the form of chips after all the processing, This is then later melted to make the form of the bangles. Unprocessed Lac This lac is procured by plant sucking insects which leave a natural resin like secretion on the branches which is then sceraped off for further processing and refinement. Marble Powder This is a poweder formed out of ciya stone, This is used with synthetic white lac used for giving it a more solid form. Embelishments These decorative embelishments are later added onto the bangles for making it more visually appealing.
Material - Diversification Lac used in other industries like • Toys • Used for filling in gold and silver ornamnets • Used as furniture finish • Nail Polish • Coatung for medicines • Used in ayurvedic medicines
Design Changes
Basic plain coloured Lac bangles were the first to come. This is the natural coloured lac which is scarlet in colour.
Colour was added to the bangles and two or more shade bangles came out.
Later, metal bangles were added to the design for increased durability with a thick coating of Lac.
More detailed and intricate sets came and the form also changed. The mirror work quality increased as it was imported from other cities.
Few embellishments were added to make it more appealing with added metal bangle to make a whole set.
The current lac bangles have more of metal and only a thin layer of metal coating fully covered with intricate expensive embellishments.
Usability - Medical to Ornamental In ancient times, women were known to stay at home constantly while men went out to earn money. Women being bound to household chores which caused them to have high blood pressure and impatience. To cure this women were made to bind their arms, wrists and ankels. That is how the bangle came into being an ornament. The friction between the wrist and the bangle causes to balance the blood pressure and keep the blood circulation going. Designs developed with time and it came to become a religous tradition and a fashion statement all over the world. Usability - Material • Precious metals used for medical aspect • Gold and silver used to clam the nerves of women wearing them • Later materials became more religious and auspicious
Single bangle worn by women to circulate blood pressure Anklet worn by women for medial purposes
Competitors Lac handiccraft has been taken over by alternative and cheaper materials like glass bangles and plastic bangles Why? • These materials are cheaper • Widely available • Manufactures in bulk • Design variations • Durable
Market
Consumer Adoption
In recent times through innovative techniques such fine products are being crafted skillfully wth bronze, steel and other materials that it has become hard for people to identify original lac bangles.
Consumers all over the world now prefer Plastic and glass bangles more than Lac bangles as Lac bangles were -
According to National Award Winner Awaz Mohammad, it was the lack of government support and competition of substitute materials that lac is not preferred over current fashion bangles. He fears that one day genuine Lac work will vansh. 1. Invasion of plastic industry has pushed crafts people to the wall as it is cheaper and sells well. 2. Glass bangles have taken over the bangle industry 3. Lack of patronage 4. Absense of marketing facilities 5. Continuous deforestation has resulted in descrease of lac reserves which has increased the price of the ornament.
• Lac bangles are not durabe • They break easily • Very highly priced as compared to other alternative materials However there are many areas where owmen still wear and prefer Lac bangles over any otehr product. Why consumers prefer wearing Lac Bangles • Old dying craft with religious importance • Sustainable
Lac Bangle - Sustainability Aspect Over the years the methods of making the lac bangle have changed which has to some extent lead to some of the methods being unsustainable. 1) Water Reuse 2) Women as major labourer in the craft 3) Wages of employees 4) Less consumers in a particular region to buy the product
Sustainability Scorecard SOURCE & TOXICITY IMPACTS
ENERGY IMPACT
DESTINY
Scope Of Improvement
Referencing • D’Source. 2020. D’source Design Gallery On Lac Bangles - Hyderabad. [online] Available at: <http://www.dsource.in/gallery/lac-bangles-hyderabad> [Accessed 10 August 2020]. • Hussain, M., 2017. The Socio-Economic plight of Artisans in the Bangle Industry – A Comparative Study of North India Firozabad (Glass Bangle) and South India Hyderabad (Lac Bangle). International Journal of Business and Administrative Studies, 3(1). • aatha.Org ~ Craft ~ Lac Bangles. [online] Available at: <https://gaatha.org/igaatha/details_craft/Crafts/Lac-bangles-craft/Mandsaur-lac-bangle-making-craft> [Accessed 10 August 2020]. • NewsGram. 2020. Significance Of Bangles In Indian Culture And Their Regional Diversity | Newsgram. [online] Available at: <https://www.newsgram.com/significance-of-bangles-in-indian-culture-and-their-regional-diversity/> [Accessed 10 August 2020]. • slowly, L., 2020. Lac Craft Dying Slowly. [online] The New Indian Express. Available at: <https://www.newindianexpress.com/states/odisha/2009/mar/23/lac-craft-dyingslowly-35144.html> [Accessed 10 August 2020]. • ROTARY NEWS. 2020. The Colourful Lac Craft Might Dwindle And Die. [online] Available at: <https://rotarynewsonline.org/the-colourful-lac-craft-might-dwindleand-die/> [Accessed 10 August 2020].
The making of the bangles is all hand done. There is a scope of improvement in technology and marketing • The result of not using machinery slows the process down • Introduction to maechanised tools will lead to creation of new designs at faster rates • Banners, posters, pamphlets • Social media marketing • Increased international and national trade • skill upgradation • Knowledge of form generation • New range • Proper storage place • Expanded workplace
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Rajhasthan
Lac Bangles