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PHYSICAL ASPECTS OF SUFFOLK
PHYSICAL ASPECTS OF SUFFOLK, ii : A THOUSAND YEARS A G O . B Y CLAUDE M O R L E Y , F . E . S . , F . G . S . ,
F.Z.S.
bore a very different aspect in the seventh Century from that it now presents. All our marsh-land was open water ; all our hills were tangled wood, except upon the Breck. At that time Anna's three great Dykes were being thrown up across the Icenhild Way, EAnglia's sole vulnerable entry. Since that time the whole •of our east coast has been modified to a quite unknown degree : there the County has lost a vast number of acres by sheer erosion ; Ptolomy's ' Exoche ' is the most eastern point of England in Roman days and computed to have extended five tniles further seaward than does Easton Bavents now ; and it has been, perhaps rashly, said that Dunwich extended seven. On the other hand, many stretches such as Lowestoft denes, the Hollesley salt-marshes, and most particularly the low-lying land about Iken, have considerably silted up to at least some compensating extent. Suffolk then possessed a second sea-board westward, for the Cambridge fens were the old Fen Sea with very few islands, such as Ely, showing above its waves. The erstwhile coast-line from Lakenheath to Exning, where King Anna was doubtless anticipating Penda of Mercia's attack which razed Botwulf's 654 monastery just north of Iken church, when Saint /Ethelthrvth (Latinised ' Etheldreda ') was born about 644, is still traceable ; it is clearly discernible from the coast-castle, yet a considerable and complex earthwork, at Freckenham, the ' warrior's home'. Adown this west boundary sailed the Norsemen who slew King Eadmund in 870. Its drainage and that of the east coast marshes has had the prevalent effect of reducing the volume of all our streams by (I do not hesitate to assert, after examining the ' dip ' of the fen water-mills, which was five feet in 1825 and only 2J in 1895) fully five feet. Add these feet to existing water-level and we find Framlingham to show a lake of many acres between its Castle and College ; that Debenham church stands forth upon a promontory jUtting into a broad expanse of water ; the Blyth to be a half-mile wide as far inland as Haiesworth ; Breydon Water again becomes the great estuary, Hierus Fluvius ; Gipping cattle-marshes are submerged from Barking Lion to Shrubland Park ; and the pre-Christian I pswich dead have to be poled across the ' seven-arches ' ferry to Crane Hill for burial. There can be little doubt that four centuries later, King Guthorm in 870 was attracted to Hadleigh by the fine estuary running down through Shelley to Higham on the Stour; this Geoffrey de Fontibus in 1150 terms' fluvium cursu rapidissimum ', which it is not now ! In fact Est Engle was, as Abbo describes it in the tenth Century, ' washed by waters on nearly every side ' except the south-west chalk across which stretched the Dykes. Desiccation was further hastened by the gradual felling of the vast SUFFOLK