A GEOLOGICAL FIELD GUIDE TO STUTTON, SUFFOLK BILL GEORGE
Background. This geological field guide has been compiled as part of an ongoing GeoEssex project to publicise and promote the geology of the Stour Estuary. Casual visitors to the remote village of Stutton may not be aware of the incredibly rich geology of this area revealed by a walk along the beach (British Geological Survey 2010). The whole walk is about 7 kilometres or 4.5 miles.
Objectives: To view the low cliffs on the north bank of the tidal River Stour at Stutton which expose the 54 million year old Wrabness Member of the Harwich Formation, previously recorded as London Clay and Pleistocene river terrace gravels, sands and brickearth which have produced many large vertebrate remains including elephant, ox and deer, and freshwater molluscs, about 210,000 years old (Oxygen Isotope Stage 7). Evidence of a failed attempt to discover coal in the mid-1890s may be found. Access for this itinerary is by car. Vehicles may be parked at the Stutton Community Centre [TM143347]. The adjacent community shop has toilets and provides light refreshments. The beach is reached by following the footpath southwards to Stutton Ness and turning west at the beach. See map below.
Map showing walking route and locations mentioned in text.
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Brief history of site: Fossils have been collected from Stutton since at least 1834 (Wood 1834). William Whitaker geologically mapped the area in the 1880s and noted the occurrence of bones and elephants’ tusks (Whitaker 1885: 95) while J.E. Taylor recorded the remains of a “hairy elephant, flint chips and an abundance of shells” (Taylor 1890: 171-172). J. Reid Moir collected from Stutton in 1941-1942. Harold E.P. Spencer made a series of visits to Stutton starting in 1942 (Spencer 1953; Spencer 1957: 242; Spencer 1962: 60). Thirty-one members and friends of the Geologists’ Association attended a field meeting led by Davis, Elliott and Spencer on 18th May 1952 (Davies, Elliott & Spencer 1953: 24). Sparks & West published a comprehensive account of the Stutton interglacial deposits in 1964. They concentrated on the molluscs and pollen (Sparks & West 1964: 419-432). The Pleistocene vertebrates were listed by Stuart (Stuart 1982). A very good and readily accessible general account of the geology of East Anglia was recently published by the British Geological Survey (Lee, Woods & Moorcock (editors) 2015).
Location 1 Crepping Hall trackway [TM148340]
Figure 1.
The trackway, near Crepping Hall, was re-metalled several years ago with hardcore from a demolished barn. Amongst this hard-core rubble, pieces of broken 4” diameter greyish Upper Silurian Palaeozoic rock may occasionally be found (Fig. 1). The rock fragment briefly described by Dixon (Dixon 2012: 101-103) was collected from this spot by H.E.P. Spencer before 1948. These are fragments of the Stutton bore sunk in 1894-1895. The bore was drilled 500 metres further south.
Location 2 Site of Stutton Bore [TM150334]
There is no direct field evidence at the bore site, but it has a most fascinating story to tell about the deep-seated geology of the south-east of England and the search for coal in late Victorian England. The Stutton borehole is still one of the deepest boreholes to be sunk in southern England and one of the few to penetrate Silurian rocks. As early as the 1820s the geological connection between the coalfields of southern Somerset with the coalfields of northern France and Belgium was recognised. Mr. Godwin-Austen argued in 1855 that coal would “someday be
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reached, along the line of the valley of the Thames” beneath a variable thickness of Secondary and Tertiary rocks. Impetus for further exploration came in 1889 when coal was found in a trial borehole at Dover and a colliery was established there. The search for coal reached south Suffolk and north Essex in the 1890s. The Eastern Counties’ Coal Boring and Development Syndicate Limited published, in 1893, a prospectus and a series of short reports inviting subscribers to apply for £1 shares. By 25th February 1893 £2,101 had been raised.
T.V. Holmes (1840-1923), J.E. Taylor (1837-1895) and William Whitaker (18361925) were advisors to the company. Their published reports make fascinating reading and comprehensively outline the available evidence and suggested putting a trial boring down “three or four miles north east of Colchester”. In reply the Rev. Dr. A. Irving penned a substantial 12-page report on “The Question of workable Coal Measures beneath Essex” which appeared in the Essex Naturalist. He wrote about coal bearing deposits “Of their occurrence in north Essex I see no probability” (Irving 1894: 140). In reply the Essex Naturalist reprinted Holmes’s and Whitaker’s reports to the syndicate entitled “Coal under south-eastern England” (Holmes and Whitaker 1894: 142-150). W. Jerome Harrison now entered the debate and published a pamphlet about the existence of a coalfield beneath Essex. He suggested that a trial boring was put down near Quendon (Harrison 1894: 28).
Figure 2. Sketch Map of Stutton Bore Site and Dip.
Subsequently a trial boring was sunk at Stutton, Suffolk (Fig. 2) close to the north bank of the River Stour in 1894-5, to a depth of 1,524 feet (Whitaker & Holmes 1896: 213218). This passed through more than 500 feet of Silurian rocks, which would underlie any Coal Measure deposits (Table 1). It is pieces of this 4” diameter bore which may still be seen in the metaling of the track way near Crepping Hall. Samples were also presented to the Essex Field Club through the intervention of William Whitaker. Whitaker described the top 16 feet of Palaeozoic rocks as “broken and jointy grey shaly sandstone”. The remaining 515 feet consisted of “hard bedded, sometimes
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88
Suffolk Natural History, Vol. 57cleaved, crushed and contorted rocks with a high dip (sometimes vertical)”. The only Palaeozoic fossil found was a rather doubtful Orthoceras.
Undeterred the syndicate sank a further trial bore hole. This was at Weeley, Essex, near the railway station in 1896. It was drilled to a depth of 1,221 feet. Again, no coal measures were reached, but it only penetrated 125 feet into Silurian or Cambrian rocks (Holmes & Whitaker 1897: 9-10). Samples of this core are also in the Essex Field Club’s collection.
The search for coal in Essex and Suffolk was unsuccessful and further work was abandoned. Geologically the results obtained were of great interest. Even today we only have a handful of deep borings in Essex and Suffolk which have penetrated through Mesozoic rocks into the underlying Palaeozoic strata.
A log of the Stutton borehole may be found in Whitaker’s book The Water Supply of Suffolk (Whitaker 1906: 140-142). The Weeley log is written up in his The Water Supply of Essex (Whitaker 1916: 343-344).
Deposit Thickness Depth (feet)
Soil 2 2
River Drift 14 16
London Clay & Reading Beds 54 70
Upper Chalk 551 621
Middle Chalk 164 785
Lower Chalk 159 944 Gault 50 994 Silurian 531 1525
Table 1
. Simplified Stutton Borehole Log
Location 3 Graham’s Wharf [TM152332]
The beach may be safely accessed from the footpath. Walking south the low cliff exposes variable deposits of gravel and brickearth overlying Harwich Formation. These deposits have been mapped as Pleistocene Second River Terrace Deposits of gravel and sand by the B.G.S. (British Geological Survey 2010). The exposures are rather changeable depending on erosion and cliff falls. The very low cliff at Graham’s Wharf is mainly composed of coarse ferruginous gravel (Fig. 3). Occasionally, crushed large mammal bone fragments may be seen in this gravel. As the cliff rises to the south brickearth may be seen resting on this gravel (Fig. 4). The lower brickearth was deposited by a Pleistocene river. The upper paler brickearth is a windblown loess.
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Figure 3. Graham’s Wharf. Low cliff showing Pleistocene Second River Terrace Deposits of gravel and sand.
The low cliff increases in height to the south and the Pleistocene brickearth may be seen resting on Eocene Harwich Formation, Wrabness Member. The most conspicuous layer is the Harwich Stone Band which may clearly be seen intermittently cropping out westwards near the base of the cliff and on the foreshore (Fig. 5). The Pleistocene deposits can be seen resting unconformably on the stone band.
Location 4 Stutton Ness [TM151329]
The recent storm beach of sand and gravel forms a prominent landmark at the tip of the Ness (Fig. 6). At low tide mud blankets Eocene deposits. The low cliff of sand and gravel is heavily vegetated and extensively burrowed by rabbits.
Flint artefacts may occasionally be found on the beach here and further to the west. The late John Wymer fully documented the occurrence of Palaeolithic artefacts collected at Stutton since at least 1883 when John Evans found a worn Levallois flake at the foot of the cliff (Wymer 1985: 209-210). Essex prehistorian and Pleistocene geologist Samuel Hazzledine Warren also collected from here, mainly sharp Neolithic flakes. H.E. P. Spencer found, in situ in the brickearth, a slightly rolled flake with a faceted striking platform. The Ipswich Museum also has four definite Levallois blades, presumably picked up on the beach. Mr. J.U. Todd of Botesdale also collected “good flint blades … almost Levallois … very sharp” from Stutton. John Wymer concluded that an industry with Levallois flakes is contemporary with the deposit of brickearth. Earlier Palaeolithic flints are derived from a gravel underlying the brickearth. Mesolithic, Neolithic and later flint implements and artefacts, including fragments of Roman pottery, are occasionally found in the beach gravel (Fig. 7). These have presumably been derived from the topsoil or washed up from the modern riverbed. Caution must be exercised, here and elsewhere, with material that is not collected in situ. It is possible that some material may have been brought from elsewhere as ships’ ballast or dumped to form a hard or to construct sea defences.
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Location 5 Gravel pit [TM151330]
At Stutton Ness take the trackway, with a gentle gradient, to the north and after 25 m. take the footpath to the west after 50m a shallow gravel pit may be viewed from the footpath (Fig. 8). This shows 2-3 metres of a ferruginous gravel composed of rounded flints including some small rounded black flint pebbles derived from lower Tertiary deposits. This gravel has been mapped by the British Geological Survey as Second River Terrace Deposits of sand and gravel. Sparks and West (1964: 420-421) found here a Bunter pebble containing brachiopods which they considered had come from Bunter pebble beds (now Early Triassic Chester Formation) near Birmingham. Return to beach at Stutton Ness and turn westwards.
Figure 8 Gravel Pit at Stutton Ness showing Second River Terrace Deposits of sand and gravel.
Location 6 Cliff Section of brickearth [TM150330]
A three-metre-high cliff of very weathered brickearth is normally well exposed a short distance west of Stutton Ness (Fig. 9). This appears to be devoid of fossils. The lower two metres were deposited by a river, about 210,000 years old while the top metre or so of the cliff has a higher sand content and appears to be a loess, a cold climate wind -blown sediment of Devensian Age.
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Location 7 Rotational slumps [TM149330]
Just to the west of Location 6 small rotational slumps may be observed (Fig. 10). Ground water percolating through the overlying Second River Terrace Deposits of sand and gravel builds up at the junction with the underlying clay of the Wrabness Member of the Harwich Formation causing slippage of the cliff as a series of small rotational slumps. The toe is being actively attacked by marine erosion. The clay of the Wrabness Member is being washed away, leaving behind the much heavier blocks of Harwich Stone Band.
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Location
8 Cliff with interglacial molluscs
[TM149330]
The fossil shells at Stutton Ness have attracted attention since 1834 when the elder Searles V. Wood (Davis 1953: 29) recorded twenty-eight species of land and freshwater molluscs. More recently Sparks and West comprehensively sampled a 290 cm. thickness of the brickearth (Sparks and West 1964). They recorded seventy-two species of non-marine mollusca and concluded the brickearth at Stutton “represents almost continuous aggradation by the Stour in the second part of an interglacial, with local conditions appearing to remain uniform while the climate deteriorated”. They also found pollen and incorrectly interpreted this as indicating the Ipswichian Interglacial period. Spencer had earlier drawn attention to the marked absence of Hippopotamus at Stutton which is commonly found in the Ipswichian Interglacial period (Spencer 1953). Fresh water molluscs may be collected in situ from the cliff at TM149330 (Fig. 11). The cliff section here also contains many small knobbly carbonate concretions or ‘race nodules’ (Fig. 12).
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The most common species is the bivalve Corbicula fluminalis (Müller). This bivalve was believed to be extinct in Britain since the last glaciation, however, it has recently been found colonising the Norfolk Broads. Other species which may readily be observed in the cliff are Valvata; Bithynia; Lymnaea; Planorbis and Pisidium. Fossil shells were also recorded in the cliff by Sparks and West (1964: 420-421) as their site J. These may be seen at TM146331 (Fig. 13).
Figure 13. Fossil shells in cliff at TM146331 recorded by Sparks and West (1964: 420421) as their site J.
Location 9 Cliff and foreshore section with Pleistocene bones [TM149330 to TM143332]
Many Pleistocene bones have been found along this 600 m or so cliff and foreshore section (Fig. 14). Bones may occasionally be seen in the brickearth at the base of the wave washed cliff or top of the foreshore where any overlying recent beach material has been scoured away by the tide. Bones also occur higher up the cliff, sometimes in the sand and gravels. Vertebrate material may also be found exposed on talus from rabbit and fox burrows. The mammals include man from artefacts; common shrew; water shrew; beaver; extinct water vole; field vole; northern vole; wood mouse; brown bear; spotted hyaena; lion; straight tusked elephant; mammoth; horse; rhinoceros; giant deer; red deer and aurochs, or bison. Schreve suggests this mammalian fauna indicates “a temperate and predominantly open environment, dominated by grassland but with isolated stands of mixed woodland” (Schreve 2015; 196).
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Figure 14. Cliff and foreshore section with Pleistocene bones from TM149330 to TM143332.
A few examples of fossil mammal bones are given below (Fig. 15). Birds include mallard and possibly goose.
Part of hyaena mandible Mammoth tusk being excavated
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Location 10 Harwich Stone Band cropping out on beach [TM145332]
The Harwich Stone Band also known as Harwich cementstone, is a tabular clayey, or agillaceous, limestone, about 25cm thick with a central ash band (King 2016: 338). It forms a conspicuous layer at the base of the cliff just to the east of Stutton Ness, and the cliff at TM142332. The stone band also crops out on the beach and foreshore at TM149330 and at Location 9 where it diagonally crosses the beach (Figs. 15 & 16).
The Harwich Stone Band occurs near the base of the Wrabness Member of the Harwich Formation and is about 54 million years old.
Figure 15. Harwich Stone Band cropping out on beach TM145332.
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Location 11 Erratics on beach [TM145332]
The river terrace gravels contain exotic rocks transported into Suffolk by the ancient proto-Thames which deposited the gravels of the Kesgrave Formation over much of Essex and Suffolk before the Anglian glaciation 450,000 years ago. These exotic rocks, which are now normally the size of cobbles or pebbles, have subsequently been reworked into the more recent river gravels. Tourmalinite (from Devon), welded tuff (from Snowdonia) and flint conglomerate (“Hertfordshire puddingstone”) occur here. The schorl-cemented quartz breccia is typical of rocks found in abundance near Teignmouth and must have been transported from either Devon or Cornwall. Dolerite and a welded tuff cobble have been found (Fig. 17). Although erratics may be found all along the beach they appear to be concentrated and larger at about TM145332 where they may be washing out of a lag gravel at the base of the river channel almost resting on the Harwich Stone Band. A typical tide sorted assortment of exotic rocks exposed at the base of the cliff is illustrated in Fig. 18. Flint casts of sea urchins are not infrequent and include Micraster and Sternotaxis.
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Figure 18. Assortment of exotic rocks found on Stutton beach, including flints, vein quartz and a siltstone with quartz veinlets cobble.
Location 12 Cliff with Ash bands and Anglian age gravel [TM142332]
The Eocene Wrabness Member of the Harwich Formation, formerly called London Clay, underlies the Pleistocene sediments and recent alluvium. The cliff near Stutton Park, to the west of the Pleistocene deposits, displays several metres of Harwich Formation (Fig. 19). Only the lowest few metres are preserved along the north bank of the River Stour and contain a conspicuous layer of hard grey limestone called the
Figure 19. Cliff at TM142332 with Lower Eocene Ash bands and Pleistocene gravel.
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Harwich Stone Band. This contains minute fragments of volcanic glass and minerals that indicate derivation from contemporaneous volcanic eruptions. Thin layers of pale clay above the Harwich Stone Band owe their distinctive appearance to a clay mineral formed by the alteration of volcanic ash and indicate that volcanic eruptions were also occurring during deposition of the clay some 54 million years ago. A sequence of 34 ash bands is exposed in the 16-metre-high cliff at Wrabness, Essex, 3km. to the south-east on the south bank of the River Stour (Jolley 1996: 64; Daley 1999).
The North Atlantic Igneous Province (NAIP), one of the largest basaltic lava accumulations on Earth formed 62-53 million years ago, prior to and during the continental break-up between Europe and Greenland. It produced voluminous flood basalts, igneous intrusions and widespread pyroclastic deposits. This explosive volcanic activity also deposited more than 200 ash layers. These ash layers were numbered as early as 1918. Evidence of this may be seen in the fine cliff exposure at Stutton which shows some ten thin clearly defined altered ash bands layers, including the key marker horizon, the Harwich Stone Band exposed in places at the base of the cliff and on the beach (Fig. 20). However, the North Sea Basin contains over 200 airfall, water-lain tephras extending onshore into Denmark, North West Germany, The Netherlands, the Austrian Alps and South East England, including Suffolk. The total eruption volume of this series, originating from the North Atlantic Igneous Province, has been calculated at some 21,000 cubic kilometres (Egger & Brückl 2006: 1065). The ash bands which may be seen at Wrabness, Harkstead, Stutton, Shotley and elsewhere are the equivalent of the Balder Formation in the North Sea and the
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positive series of ashes in Denmark (Morton & Knox 1990; Westerhold et al. 2009). Regrettably it is not possible to precisely date the ash bands as all, except the Harwich Stone Band, are largely altered to clay minerals. A couple of ash layers in Denmark have been dated, but it is not possible to identify these at Stutton. Absolute dating of the interval covered by the ash layers is tricky. Eruption was clearly repeated many times, but it does not appear to tell if the episodes of ashfall were evenly spaced in time. Chris King believes that the rate of sedimentation was however probably fairly consistent through the interval with the ash bands. The ash beds seen at Wrabness, Harkstead and Stutton are laterally persistent. Apparently, bioturbation can be seen in slices cut through the Harwich Stone Band. However, the fact that the ash bands may be seen in the cliff suggests that the texture or composition of the ash bands when deposited was toxic or otherwise unacceptable to burrowing organisms, so they remained relatively undisturbed (King, pers. comm. 9/10/2010).
Location 13 Cliff showing Pleistocene Gravel [TM142332]
The British Geological Survey has mapped an isolated patch of Anglian Age, Lowestoft Formation sand and gravel, about 500,000 years old at Stutton Park. This deposit was created by ice and meltwater action and is well exposed in the cliff (Fig. 21) about 30 metres to the west of location 9. Further to the west at TM139233 a large boulder of Hertfordshire Puddingstone may be seen resting on the muddy foreshore (Fig. 22) and at TM137329 are many small rounded black flint pebbles, derived from a lower Eocene deposit, may be seen on the beach (Fig. 23). Both of these have presumably eroded out of the Anglian Lowestoft Formation although the Lambeth Formation is
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mapped underlying modern river mud a short distance to the south. A large sarsen stone was observed near the Hertfordshire Puddingstone boulder in the mid-1970s. A further series of small exposures of Second River Terrace Deposits may be seen in the base of the low cliff at TM138330 (Fig. 24).
Figure 24. Second River Terrace Deposits may be seen in the base of the low cliff at TM138330.
The return to the car park may be made by retracing the route already taken back along the beach eastwards. At Stutton Ness the clifftop path may be taken to Graham’s Wharf and then re-joining the footpath passing Crepping Hall to the car park at the community hall and shop.
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Bill George william-george@lineone.net 11 Sterry Road Barking Essex IG11 9SJ
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