Sunrise City Rebirth by Susan Campbell San Nicolas, the old refinery town that was once the island’s bustling hub of commerce, is now experiencing an exciting revitalization with an explosion of art, culture, cuisine, and a whole new vibe and energy. If you haven’t been for a while, we bet you’ll hardly recognize it!
There’s an exciting undercurrent of evolution rumbling all around the old streets of this historic region that was once pulsating with life. In the heyday of the refinery operations, this was the nexus of activity before tourism began driving the economy to the other side of the island. Workers came from all over the world eager for refinery jobs in the 1920s, and everyone in those days ended up at Charlie’s Bar to socialize – and it’s still there more than 75 years later with the grandson of the original Charlie at the helm! If you stroll around the ghost town of the old Lago Colony, nearby in Seroe Colorado, you might still be able to imagine the echoes of
the lively population (mostly Americans) that settled there to run the refinery in the ’50s. They built their own church and international school, and even had their own social club on the edge of Baby Beach replete with a theater, a bowling alley, and a chic supper club. But after the oil boom busted, the bustling city fell into a deep slumber, and for many years few visitors made the trek unless they were attending the Thursday night Carubbian Festival. Until now. After the total transformation of downtown Oranjestad, the government set their sights on revitalizing the entire San Nicolas 62
region with plans to turn it into a true cultural attraction in its own right. First the old water tower was converted into a modern interactive Museum of Industry highlighting the oftensurprising story of the island’s economic history. Next came Cosecha, an art collective where local creators sell their wares and give workshops to residents and tourists alike. The historic Nicolaas Store has also recently been converted into a community museum, and a carnival village and workshop are well under way. But it was art that really turned this town around. Photo by © Werner J Bertsch
What began as a community project to beautify the streets by painting outdoor murals on boarded sidewalks, turned into an international art movement. Now going into its fourth year, the fabulous annual Aruba Art Fair that takes place every October has since turned the downtown core of San Nicolas into an incredible art walk reminiscent of Miami’s Wynwood district. The works left behind each year by local and international artists have resulted in an explosion of color converting old structures into larger than life murals, some of which are 3-D installations and trompe l’œil pieces. Even the ceramic benches along the walk are works of art. Other festivals are also cropping up like Experience San Nicolas: a monthly farmer’s market, arts, crafts, music, and cultural event. Additional restaurants have opened up to feed
the influx of visitors, and legendary older establishments have upgraded their menus and refreshed their places eager to welcome many new faces. It’s an exciting time in San Nicolas. So, if you’ve never been to the town that locals call Sunrise City, or haven’t visited for a while, do yourself a favor and plan a day trip there. You won’t be disappointed. Savory San Nicolas
Whenever the hipsters, arty crowd, trend seekers, and culture vultures begin to flock to a region, the foodies are never far behind. And now they will be well sated and happy to discover that apart from the amazing explosion of art, San Nicolas is also evolving on the culinary front. On the following pages are a few fabulous spots to visit for great food and drink... E
Meet Some of San Nicolas’ Talented Chefs From left to right: Jean-Pierre Fang – Rum Reef Charlie Brouns III – Charlie’s Bar Oneil Williams – O’Niel Caribbean Kitchen Juan Mora – The Lago Colony Beach Club Kamini Kurvink – Kamini’s Kitchen “Lanchi” Rolando Maduro – Grill Time 63