The Royal Pineapple-Island Gourmet

The Royal Pineapple

by Susan Campbell Pineapples might instantly bring the Hawaiian Islands to mind, but they also have a very special meaning in the tropics. Beyond adding delightful flavor to so many drinks and desserts, they also represent a spirit of welcome throughout the Caribbean as a sign of hospitality recognized throughout the region.

Pineapples originated in the Brazil/Paraguay region, but they were a far cry from the delicious treat we enjoy today. Wild pineapples were small, apple-sized affairs, full of seeds and actually quite sour. But thanks to an ancient tribe called the Tupi-Guarani Indians, they were cultivated and domesticated to become larger, sweeter, and seedless hundreds of years before Columbus arrived.

The Indians christened them nana meaning “excellent fruit,” and spread them throughout the region as far as the West Indies through their frequent bartering voyages in long dugout canoes.

Columbus discovered pineapples in Guadeloupe in 1493, and thinking they resembled pine cones, christened them “pine of the Indies.” (The British later added the “apple” since they had few sweet fruits to compare them to.) Columbus’s crew found their new cargo to be a wonderful scurvy preventative and seasickness remedy and its high acid content made it perfect for deck scrubbing. In Renaissance Europe, once people

86

got past its rough, thorny look, this exotic creation was embraced as an instant celebrity. At the time, both candies and fresh fruit were scarce and so the sweet secret of the New World became a coveted treasure, especially among European royals.

Fit for kings

England’s King Charles II even asked that his portrait be painted while receiving a pineapple as a gift; it was the ultimate honor of the time. In France, Louis the XIV cut his mouth when he eagerly bit into the first unpeeled pineapple presented to him, but still ordered his gardener to find a way to grow them. As the pineapple became the favorite of European high society, taking center stage at the most fashionable and sumptuous feasts, many among the very wealthy also tried to create hothouse “pineries” to grow their very own pineapples. Needless to say, that despite their grand efforts, few were successful in their ambitious endeavor. !

87

Rare and precious gift

In colonial America, entertaining was the prime source of social interaction, and the pineapple also became a status symbol and a harbinger of fine hospitality. Sea captains set pineapples outside their homes to signal their return and welcome visitors. Candied pineapple pieces were common, while whole fresh pineapples were sought after for their rarity and only the swiftest ships could guarantee their unspoiled arrival.

Offering this luxurious treat truly elevated your position in society and impressed guests to no end. Less affluent families went so far as to rent pineapples as the star attraction of their banquets, hoping no one would have the audacity to actually cut into them. Sometimes pineapples were even passed from party to party until the odor of rot would finally unveil the ruse.

The pineapple as a welcoming symbol became deeply embedded in the culture, greeting and inviting friends, family, and neighbors into your home to enjoy the best you had to offer. The pineapple shape had so much meaning that one hostess, so exasperated with a guest’s reluctance to leave her home, was said to have unscrewed the wooden pineapples from his bedposts as a not-so-subtle hint!

Prime time for pineapple

The pineapple motif was carved, painted, and emblazoned onto a multitude of items, woven through needlework, and incorporated into the designs of important buildings. By the end of the 1880s, successful canning of pineapples grown on Hawaii made the fruit more available and economically accessible to the masses, and thus the pineapple lost its exclusive status. But you’ll still see many remnants of its glory days in architecture and design throughout the world.

Though the pineapple is no longer a celebrity in the homes of the rich and famous, it remains a superstar in the kitchen, adding a sweet surprise of delight to many dishes and drinks. "

Tropical Pineapple Smoothie INGREDIENTS

• 1 cup fresh pineapple, cubed • ½ cup pineapple juice • ⅔ cup coconut milk • Crushed ice • 1 banana (optional) DIRECTIONS

Combine pineapple cubes, juice, coconut milk, and ice (and optional banana) in a blender and process until smooth. Garnish with a pineapple slice and enjoy!

SERVES 2 88