young or aged
by David Enright
Christine Barbe from Bordeaux, France, is the winemaker at Coquerel Family Wine Estates.
there’s no taming Tempranillo There are some regions around the world so strongly associated with a specific grape that they are talked about as if they were one and the same. For example, Pinot Noir from Burgundy, France; Nebbiolo from Piedmont, Italy; Tempranillo from Rioja, Spain. Since the introduction by the Phoenicians some 2500 years ago, Tempranillo has been widely planted across the high-altitude interior of northern Spain, over the years becoming Spain’s most important grape. Today, there are several names for the same grape—Tempranillo in Rioja, Tinto Fino and Tinta del País in
neighboring Ribera del Duero. In Portugal, it is known as Tinta Roriz when making Port, although it’s Aragonez when grown in the southern regions. Wines from the producers such as Bodegas LAN and Protos show the classic Tempranillo style. The young examples show all juicy cherry and strawberry, ready for any occasion. With aging—and Tempranillo does very well with aging—things start to get more serious, incorporating characteristics of vanilla, licorice and tobacco spice. The wines show a definite savory side, a quality often defined as tobacco leaf, developing leathery notes as they gain years. Particularly wonderful examples are Bodegas LAN
Left to right: Coquerel Tempranillo, Protos Ribera del Duero ’27 and Bodegas LAN Viña Lanciano.
S U C A S A A U T U M N 2021