style in progress 1/2022 – English Edition

#1/2022

“Let Humans Do What Humans Do Best” Elizabeth Spaulding

We Just Want To Play! How Gamification Is Changing Consumer Behaviour.

Welcome to the Metaverse! The Land of Unlimited Possibilities.

Post-Consumerism. From Point of Sale to Point of Participation.

More Than Symbolic Virtue. Diversity as the Key to a New Corporate Culture.

€ 15.00

ALPHATAURI.COM

strellson.com

PRE FALL 2022

A Kiss from Kitz‘

EDITORIAL

Cover photo: Stitch Fix

Playfully Beguiled (Or Guided?)

Welcome to these lines.

Don’t forget to play! Fashion has the ability to contrast the pandemic-induced bleakness: with courage and colour, with purpose and sensuality, with an invitation to play. When Elizabeth Spaulding of Stitch Fix (The Longview, from page 98) talks about gaming in fashion, she does so not because she believes it is a trend, but because customers of the US shopping site have already rated nine billion garments in the in-app game “Style Shuffle”, which relies on a principle similar to Tinder. A simple swipe allows Stitch Fix shoppers to express what they like and dislike, thus feeding a huge data pool that is analysed by an AI-driven system. The results help the company, for example, to make informed decisions regarding its private labels. “Ultimately, people want to be part of a broader conversation and it’s going to be fascinating to see how the fashion industry creates more opportunities for this,” the US manager says.

Sallyann Houghton of Epic Games echoes the sentiment (from page 132) when she states: “The deeper understanding of data will enable the fashion industry to know much more about their product before they even start producing it.” And no, this is not the apocalypse that must be fought tooth and nail by invoking the full range of data protection laws. Making smarter decisions before something is manufactured is an important element of fashion’s roadmap to a better future. Not only because we all urgently need to become greener and more sustainable, but especially because the battle for resources has long since begun. If we are to avoid a situation where survival of the fittest prevails, data is our chance: those who can prove that their products guarantee long-term happiness will deservedly reap the rewards. We at style in progress are fortunate to feature so many of these happiness-inducing brands and products in our magazine. By the way, this edition is the most expansive in style in progress’ history. You can look forward to an issue brimming with fun, games, and intellect!

We wish you a successful and healthy start to your order season, Your style in progress team

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OUR NEW ADDRESS B2B Media GmbH style in progress Paracelsusstrasse 4/1/7 5020 Salzburg, Austria

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style in progress

CONTENT

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132

010 EDITORIAL

113 Fashion Cashmere Notshy adds style, casualness, and elegance to cashmere knitwear. Tres francais!

Playfully Beguiled (Or Guided?)

022 RIGHT NOW 116 WANT IT THE LONGVIEW 098 “Let Humans Do What Humans Do Best” Why Stitch Fix CEO Elizabeth Spaulding believes the human touch is indispensable.

FASHION 034 Take a Look Trends and tendencies for autumn/winter 2022/23.

106 “We Picture the Future of Trousers!”

Comfortable and stylish alike – a balancing act achieved by trouser specialist Raffaello Rossi.

107 Next Level!

The style evolution of Barb’One. 108 “We Strive to Create Everyone’s Favourite Jeans” The.Nim impresses with its blue soul – finest premium jeans made in Italy.

109 New Shapes, New Nuances Outerwear specialist Canadian Classics proves how creative jackets and coats can be.

110 “The Future Draws From Roots” Pitti Uomo comeback and a healthy dose of innovation: Tombolini.

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114 “Conquering the Global Accessories Scene” Cranking up fashion levels even more: Vic Matié.

115 Sartorial Street(wear) Manuel Ritz achieves a delicate balance between tailoring and streetwear.

WHAT’S THE STORY 128 THE NEW GAME Does fashion still need to be real?

130 The Rock & Roll of Gen F(ortnite) An opinion piece by Stephan Huber.

132 “Digital Fashion Is the Fast Fashion of the Future” Argues Sallyann Houghton of Fortnite creators Epic Games.

136 “This Is the First Time That NFTs Have Utility” André Johnson, VP of Business Development at Mythical Games, enchants the fashion world.

142 Triple Jump Final How AlphaTauri and Telekom Fashion Fusion plan to interconnect fashion in real life and virtually.

146 Data for Good How Hakan Temür’s LSTNR intends to define tomorrow’s retail environment.

150 The Principle of Play, Fun, and Excitement Where gaming and retail already intersect.

111 Iconic Boots Ethnic influences, the iconic lambskin, and the distinctive stitching: Mou.

160 Next Level: Made-to-Measure French company Lectra has established itself as an expert in Industry 4.0.

112 Al Italoamericano Italian manufacturer, German expertise, global philosophy: Tom Ripley.

162 How a Collective Brain Works When industry heavyweights collaborate: the Aura Blockchain Consortium.

style in progress

How Much Do You Care?

Pure Organic Cotton

Made with 40% Less Water

100% Climate Neutral Product

Sustainably Made in Europe

Take the Lead in Sustainability GET S U S TA I N A B LY INSPIRED

Fair & Transparent Supply Chain

CONTENT

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150

164 “We Are Looking Forward To Turning 101 and 102” A reason to celebrate: Alberto’s trouser expertise celebrates its 100th birthday.

186 LEADERSHIP IN A NEW FUTURE

166 “A Brand Needs to Take a Stand” Self-confident masculinity forms the core of the Baldessarini brand.

168 Pioneering Spirit The next coup after Liebeskind: Semih Simsek is back in the leather and bag business.

170 Always Honest Meindl Authentic Luxury’s target group?

Urban mountaineers!

171 “We Invest in the Brand” Wolfgang Lohe expands Better Rich into a lifestyle sportswear collection.

172 Full of Character Traditional and yet so modern: Italian shoe brand Doucal’s.

174 “This Is Grade A” How Funky Staff inspires its retail partners.

175 “We Have a Finger on the Pulse” Uli Ehrlich remains on course for success with Sportalm.

176 “We Aim To Be Ahead of the Times” Esemplare relies on innovation and in-house technological edge.

178 Off to New Horizons On course for internationalisation with capsules and collaborations: Bogner.

182 Sexiness for Gen Z The legendary Jet Set brand makes a comeback.

184 “This Is Couture” Toni Sailer debuts an urban collection.

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Hopemakers and visionaries wanted – leadership rethought.

188 What Does Optimal Leadership Entail?

The new leadership culture.

191 Unrestricted Creativity Maximilian Böck has taken the reins at Marc O’Polo.

192 “We Need To Nurture Talent” Stephanie Phair holds senior roles at the British Fashion Council, Farfetch, and Moncler.

194 “It Is Time for a New Management Culture” Strellson has adjusted many parameters.

196 Conveying Passion How Roberto Ricci went from professional surfer to entrepreneur.

197 “Open-Mindedness and Flexibility” The leadership formula of Duno founder Chris Wang.

198 Time to Shatter the Glass Ceiling?

Zooming in: a gender discussion with Italian business leaders.

204 “Subverting Norms and Classicism” Fiorella and Mirko Ghignone explain why Avant Toi is the original.

206 That’s the Spirit!

Kai Wilhelm is on track for a treble: Soho New York is his latest project.

207 “The Time Is Right for Our Product” As a premium trouser specialist, MMX combines fashion with sustainability.

208 “We Remain True to Our Values” American Vintage manages to remain stringent whilst renewing itself.

CONTENT

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254

209 Dawn of a New Era How Gwand & the City intends to celebrate alpine lifestyle.

236 Passionately Analogue How the beloved multi-brand store business model can become viable.

210 Committed to Heritage The Binder’s new clothes – the plans of Schneiders’ new CEO.

239 “Stationary Retailers Are Our Brand Ambassadors” Handstich relies on enthusiasts within the retail sector.

211 Clothing Reflects Feelings and Moods A Chinese cashmere specialist with plenty of flair for Europe.

212 A New Home for Traditional “Tracht” Revitalising Salzburg as a trade fair venue for Trachten: the mission of Brandboxx.

243 Art, Design, Tailoring Atelier di Gala/Montecatini Alto 244 Two Picture-Perfect Stores Angelo’s/Hamburg

213 Tailoring With a Modern Twist Cruna is well on its way to becoming a total look collection – and successfully so!

246 Perfect Match Bettina Ritter No 13/Esslingen

214 POST CONSUMERISM What comes after the retail era? The retail era.

250 I’ll Take That!

The Loft by Room Nine/Bonn

216 Disruption in Store Design When selling becomes the most beautiful triviality.

251 Marketplace With Happiness Guarantee A Happy Place/Munich

227 How to Reintroduce Pleasure to Consumption?

Leading minds from the fashion industry have the answers.

252 It’s Good To Be a Child Bubbles and Troubles/Montecatini Terme

230 “Our Customers Demand a Holistic Experience” A conversation with Nicola Gerber-Maramotti about post-Covid retail.

233 “How Green Are We?” A guest column by Mariella Milani.

234 “Reduce to the Max” Why Christoph Bründl dislikes digitally overloaded sales floors.

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242 IN STORE

style in progress

248 Responsible Innovation Kauri/Bolzano & Bressanone

253 Everything Is Energy room with a view/Salzburg 254 Out of Rosenheim Ingla/Rosenheim

256 EDITOR’S LETTER Concerning I Versus We

256 ABOUT US

R UND HANDWERK

KULTUR UND HANDWERK

authentic luxury authentic luxury KULTUR UND HANDWERK

authentic luxury

100 % Tierwohl

Unsere Produkte werden in Deutschland entwickelt und in Europa von Hand gefertigt. Das sämisch gegerbte Leder kommt von freilebendem Rotwild, das respektvoll in den Alpen gejagt wurde. Dieses Leder ist, jetzt mehr als je zuvor, ein Material das Vertrauen und Respekt verdient. Seit Jahrhunderten hat es seine Verlässlichkeit und seinen hohen emotionalen Wert bewiesen.

Deshalb ist es unser Ziel, unsere Leidenschaft für dieses einzigartige Produkt mit Ihnen zu teilen.

Meindl Online Shop: www.meindl-fashion.de Meindl Stammhaus - Kirchanschöring Dorfplatz 8-10

Meindl authentic luxury store - Salzburg Platzl 4/ Linzergasse

Meindl authentic luxury store - München Am Kosttor 1/ Maximilianstraße

Meindl authentic luxury store - Berlin Bleibtreustraße 40

www.meindl-fashion.de

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+49 8685 9850

fashion@meindl.de

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James

UPCYCLED SCRUNCHIES

Scrunchies made of silk scarves from designer brands: James scrunchies are available at stores such as KaDeWe and Apropos at a retail price of 130 Euros.

The exclusive hairbands

by Clare Langhammer and James Castle are handcrafted in Berlin from vintage silk scarves by the likes of Hermès, Chanel, and Yves Saint Laurent. Every single scrunchy is unique in its design, as each scarf only yields a strictly limited quantity. www.jamescastle.de

Lotta Leben

Tunic + Tracht = Trachtika

Take what is currently probably the most popular cut for women’s dresses and spice it up with traditional elements – the result is “Trachtika”, a creation by designer Marie-Alice Seidl, a South German native who lives and works in Graz. www.lotta-leben.com

Marion Buhrs still sees plenty of potential in the Diega collection, which she has been selling in Germany and Austria for two years.

COMBO MIRACLE

“The DIEGA collection speaks to the heart,” enthuses Marion Buhrs, who markets the Parisian label in Germany and Austria.

“Thanks to harmonious colours, the patterns are easy to combine with each other: the checkered wool skirt with the millefleurs blouse, for example. A casual jumper or an oversized coat can be worn over the outfit.” The fact that natural materials are used is almost outdone by the price structure. A cotton blouse retails at 139 Euros. Diega manufactures in Morocco.

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Lotta Leben’s Trachtikas are available at key accounts such as Lodenfrey and Runggaldier at a retail price of 399 Euros.

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“

Everyone who tries them on is thrilled by how comfortable Goldgarn Denim jeans are! Little details like special buttons indicate how lovingly the product is made. Manufactured in Europe, the jeans are available at fair retail prices up to 159 Euros. One Euro per sale is passed on to charities, meaning our customers are even more eager to buy.”

Never alike: Iris von Arnim’s editions made of residual yarns are always unique in terms of colour, material, and cut – and are only available in limited quantities.

Kirsten Asbeck opened LA Boutique in Landshut about a year ago. Goldgarn Denim was among her first brands, and has been a hit ever since.

Iris von Arnim

Zero Waste Collection

“We always retain and recycle our residual yarns.

An appreciation of cashmere is the core essence of our production. This means that our new limited ‚Re Edition‘ collections will always be highly eclectic,” says Valentin von Arnim, Managing Director of Iris von Arnim. www.irisvonarnim.com

WOW PRODUCT Shoe or sneaker? Henderson Baracco focuses on hybrids that combine classic style with comfort, thanks to lightweight rubber soles and Sacchetto craftsmanship.

“The ‘Made in Italy’ product inspires instantly, offers a great price-performance ratio, and does not require a minimum order,” says Paul Schulz, who has been selling the brand for a season. Henderson Baracco stems from one of the oldest shoe manufacturers in Italy and impresses important players in the fashion trade and major shoe specialists alike. www.hendersonshoes.com

Lightweight rubber soles and Sacchetto craftsmanship are the key values of Henderson Baracco. style in progress

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Reduce, Recycle, Reuse

STETSON SUSTAINABLE is a new line that consistently continues what began with the use of organic cotton in baseball caps and hats, from the hangtag to the sewing thread and the hat band. Only organically certified or recycled materials are used for the peaked caps, such as GOTS cotton naturally dyed in Italy or undyed linen from France. Anything made of plastic, such as the fashionable centre button on the Hatteras model, is unceremoniously eliminated in order to comply with the sustainability ethos through simplification.

What makes Wahts‘ stand out?

The uncompromisingly clear lines of its very masculine styles that remain exciting regardless of their clarity. These are self-explanatory essentials that should feature in every man’s wardrobe, simply because they make you look sharp.

What could be better than a cool jumper that is super comfortable without being too casual? The brand masters that balancing act at a fair price.” www.wahts.com

When it comes to innovation, the fashion store Identità Italiana leads the pack in Düsseldorf. Owner Isabel Brodt reveals which collections she finds particularly interesting and why.

SO EASY TO WEAR

“I am so excited about LU LI LINA,” says Isabel Brodt. “Every customer who tries on the dresses ends up buying one. The prints are modern and harmonious in colour, and the cuts suit women of all ages. This label is one my customers and I both enjoy.” Dresses are the staple of the two-year-old collection, complemented by skirts, trousers, blouses, and jackets. At a convincing 3.0 mark-up, purchase prices for silk dresses range from 166 to 178 Euros. A cotton dress costs 93 Euros. www.lulilina.com

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Fancy

for future

www.mey.com

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Sassenbach

Sassenbach is among the top performers of sales agencies such as The Wearhouse and MODEist.

The New Ready-to-Wear Favourite pieces made of flowing fabrics in many business-appropriate colours. Handmade in Germany – Michaela Sassenbach perfectly captures the lifestyle of a generation of women. Also ideal for travelling! www.sassenbach-style.de

Wald Berlin

FAIRTRADE MADE IN GERMANY

Wald Berlin is now being represented by MODEist. The jewellery is already available at stores like Breuninger.

PERFECTLY IMPERFECT “Please cut off the price tag. I plan to wear this right now.” Customers fall in love with THE GREAT, a project of Current Elliott founders Emily Current and Meritt Elliott from LA, almost instantly. The dresses, blouses, and knitwear exude a cool, feminine boho-western style, complemented by sweatpants in all variations at purchase prices between 60 and 70 Euros.

The brand also offers plain and printed sweatshirts in super-casual washes. www.thisisthegreat.com

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Model Joyce Binneboese and stylist Dana Rosk are the brains behind Wald Berlin, a female collective that creates characterful jewellery. Working at a self-determined pace is a welcome opportunity, especially for young mothers. www.wald-berlin.de

RIGHT NOW Fa s h i o n

Phil Petter

“WE ARE DRIVEN BY PERFECTION” Innovation is among Phil Petter’s greatest strengths. What new specialities have been added to the menu for the coming season?

Anja Grabherr-Petter, Creative Director at Phil Petter: We are debuting a small, refined range of sophisticated, modern cashmere styles. We use Italian yarn of the highest quality, knitted tightly enough in Phil Petter fashion to be strong and durable, but still super fluffy. I was encouraged by a request for Phil Petter cashmere from one of my key customers, and I believe now is the perfect time to make a move.

Is this down to the fact that the values you represent are in increasingly high demand?

Definitely. Our dedication to the product and our uncompromising quality are palpable. We value the high-quality raw materials we use, all the more so because they are no longer as readily and promptly available. This adds value to our brand, as does the fact that we refrain from passing on raw material price increases 1:1 to our customers. Today, we need to plan all the more precisely and communicate with our suppliers even earlier, because although we source regionally, we are also facing severe delivery challenges. If there is a shortage of a certain zipper or yarn, we are forced to swiftly advance a different design. This is another of our strengths, because we can react flexibly and quickly at our own production site in Dornbirn. That makes it all the more important to get the groundwork right, so we test every product for wearing comfort, care properties, colours, and sizes. In the case of knitwear, this is a particularly protracted process, especially as we produce new styles in new grades every season – always with rekindled passion.

Cashmere à la Phil Petter: an honestly calculated luxury product. d efine einz H ght, r The li ckets by press kt im er ja leath r Manufant quality Baueh excelle fit. wit and

Terra Luna

COTTON LUXURY

Hand-spun, hand-woven organic cotton: Terra Luna shirts are now complemented by casual t-shirts, polos, and rugby shirts, as well as shorts that are also available in high-quality organic linen.

All styles are piece-dyed with natural dyes and thus deservedly GOTS-certified. At a mark-up of 2.8, retail prices range from 59.95 to 99.95 Euros. www.terralunafashion.com

Terra Luna is a synonym for sustainable luxury.

Heinz Bauer Manufakt

CASHMERE HYBRID

A new addition for women is a quilted, hooded gilet with Loro Piana cashmere lining. For men, the new Hockenheim blouson with Sella shoulders, as well as the quilted down-hybrid jacket with cashmere sleeves in soft lamb nappa, make their debut in bronze. www.heubel.info

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Sold Out

DAILY LIFE BRAND

Strong Identity

Why do customers enjoy buying White Sand so much? Because the casual trousers make innovation tangible. The Italian love of products is revealed in the details. www.white-sand.it

Particular in material, washes, and subtle fashion details: White Sand.

Marion, how would you sum up Sold Out’s brand statement?

Marion Hoferer, owner of sales agency MODEist: Sold Out is the perfect daily life brand. When you wear Sold Out, you never experience that feeling of having to change into different clothes as soon as you arrive home. We combine a cosy feeling with plenty of class and casual attitude, yet always a little more chic than typical loungewear brands.

What is the baseline in terms of design?

The product always comes first, cosy soft and seasonless. Modal is typical for Sold Out, supplemented by new topics such as Cashmere Touch, this time patterned, and a Nicky fabric in two colours. When we have found the perfect fabric, we start thinking about what styles would look great in it.

How important is the price structure? How will prices hold up given the increased raw material, production, and transport costs?

Our retail prices range from 89 to 159 Euros, and we are working hard to maintain them. Manufacturers have already absorbed many price increases over the past season. I think it is important to support each other now. Retailers need to know that they are contributing by defining their budgets early, so that manufacturers can deliver on time.

Sold Out is casual yet dressy.

Destin manufactures exclusively in Italy.

Unisex

Scarves, beanies, and overshirts e basta! Italian label DESTIN focuses on core competencies. Featherlight, flattering materials are the backbone of the collection that has returned to Marion Hoferer’s sales agency after ten years. www.destinsurl.com

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s and r price Fair le reorde b in a i l d e e ar ult e res s for c i v r e se g sal r. stron ast winte l s h t My

Product Diversity

Parajumpers has long since impressed with innovations beyond its key piece, the down jacket. Latest developments?

Hybrid styles that combine knit, sweat, and down into wonderfully new pieces. www.parajumpers.it

COOL COMFORT

Myths has evolved far beyond the status of comfortable trousers. What remains is a sense of style and the palpable will to create something unique from high-quality materials with special finishes. www.myths.it

Hybrid styles by Parajumpers perform particularly well in retail.

Funky Staff

HAT TRICK Caps with perfect fit in many colours – with or without logo patches. Success can be this simple. A 100 percent “Made in Italy” strategy guarantees a seamless supply chain, and dedicated POS displays ensure perfect presentation. www.funkystaff.de 032

style in progress

A sea of colours, snappy logistics, and effortless sales – Funky Caps by Funky Staff are a 100 percent “Made in Italy” product.

THE JEANS CHINO

NO COTTON DENIM

FLANELL LOOK PANTS

FASHION

TAKE A LOOK

TRENDS + TENDENCIES

Editor: Isabel Faiss. Photos: Brands

DOPAMINE DRESSING adidas x IVY Park

DRESS...

LIKE EVERYBODY’S WATCHING Funky Stuff

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LEAVE’EM ON Loci

AFTER EIGHT Circolo 1901

UNDYED

Pride to be

NO NEED FOR SNOW Aspesi

VINTAGE MILITARY Parajumpers

STAY PUFT

Rag & Bone

FASHION

Avant Toi Kashette GCDS

Alberto

DOPAMINE DRESSING Arys

Fashion treats itself to a high: ecstatic colour combinations, wide prints and logos, batik patterns, and neon pop colours. In step with the comeback of the noughties, everything is loud, expressive, and (finally) cheerful again.

Pin 1876

The.Nim

Sportalm

style in progress

035

FASHION

LEAVE’EM ON! Copenhagen Studios

Brutal soles with robust XXL profiles and platforms on loafers, boots, and sneakers – the era of athleisure has finally assimilated classic shoe models.

Mou

Helen Kirkum

“

You have to have a pretty thick skin when you do something different. People are going to take shots at you. They’re going to criticise what they don’t understand. […] I just wanted to shake people up a little bit more. I wanted to push it as far as I possibly could without being fired.” – Tinker Hatfield, Air Jordan Designer at Nike

Mason Garments

UGG x Feng Chen Wang

Doucal’s

Axel Arigato

K-Swiss

Ecoalf

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FASHION

Edelle

Tombolini

U N DYED Better Rich

MMX

Luxurious slow fashion based on natural materials in their most natural possible state. The minimalist natural look preaches the prevailing credo: Less is more.

American Vintage

Mey Sophie Schneiders

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Stetson

PLANET FIRST SINCE 2009 BECAUSE THERE IS NO PLANET B®

COME VISIT US AT PITTI UOMO, PADIGLIONE DELLA GHIAIA, FLORENCE Deluxe Distribution, Germany

Room with a View, Austria

Eins Zwei Zwei Eins, Switzerland

FASHION

Portofiori Not So Ape

Sportalm

VINTAGE MILI TARY Silk Sisters

Combined with elements drawn from utility and workwear, it pays homage to original pieces found in archives. Newly discovered, adopted, and interpreted – military styles require a sure instinct.

Ecoalf

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Les Visionaires

FASHION

DRESS … LIKE EVERYBODY’S WATCHING Winter dresses in dramatic lengths and romantic designs satisfy womenswear’s current desire to finally be seen again.

Munthe

Second Female

Gestuz

Silk Sisters Des Petits Hauts Drykorn Joop

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By Malene Birger

FASHION

A F T E R EIGHT Coster Copenhagen

Luis Trenker

Shipsheip

Blazers have transcended the readyto-wear departments to become a style statement in their own right – especially for women. As loose double-breasted styles, in oversized cuts, and cinched or belted at the waist, they have come to replace the jacket.

“

Seductive

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Suits and blazers have become somewhat of a fashion item of late. We are currently selling plenty of blazers with a fashionable twist.

The most popular models right now are those featuring expressive shoulders, a cinched waist, or bright colours.”

– Tiffany Hsu, Fashion Buying Director at Mytheresa

Maison Margiela

Helene Galwas

Cruna Birgitte Herskind

FASHION

NO NEED FOR SNOW

Strellson

Bogner

People of Shibuya

Bob

Duno

The technical, functional jacket is gradually making way for all-rounders of urban simplicity.

They are impervious to market mechanisms such as seasons.

While functionality remains, it takes a back seat to the fashion statement.

Heinz Bauer

Bomboogie

Esemplare Sealup

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Distretto 12

FASHION

STAY PUFT! Handstich

Adhoc

Duno Schneiders

Jackets are once again what they should be: the epitome of comfort, warmth, and protection. Casual cuts, large volumes, and wool qualities in oversized styles.

Functional details are not a unique selling point, they set the standards.

Save the Duck

People of Shibuya

Canadian Classics

Peuterey

Replumè

048

Superdry x Beabadoobee

Blauer USA style in progress

Life is an everyday challenge.

#BETTERTOGETHER

LIFE IS BETTER TOGETHER.

THE RETAILER‘S BEST FRIEND • INNOVATIVES SHOPSYSTEM • 100% BETEILIGUNG AN UMSÄTZEN • • KOSTENLOS LOCAL ONLINE PARTNER WERDEN • NACHHALTIG & FAIR •

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„UWES KONZEPT IST DAS BESTE WAS UNS PASSIEREN KONNTE. SO WIRD DIE NACHHALTIGKEIT DER MARKE UND HÄNDLER EBENSO NACHHALTIG GESICHERT.“ EWALD KORTÜM VON KORTÜM FASHION, ROTTACH-EGERN

„DER LOCAL ONLINE SHOP IST NICHT NUR VISIONÄR & FUNKTIONIERT EINWANDFREI – DANK DES SHOPS KONNTEN WIR STAMMKUNDEN AUS GANZ DEUTSCHLAND GEWINNEN. AUSSERDEM SCHÄTZEN WIR DIE KURZFRISTIGEN LIEFERTERMINE & DIE TOLLE MODE.“ ULRIKE RING VON SUMMERSBY, BRAUNSCHWEIG

#FORFUNKYPEOPLE FUNKY STAFF GmbH & Co. KG, Berner Straße 30, 60437 Frankfurt am Main info@funkystaff.com, www.funkystaff.com

PRÄSENTIEREN SIE FUNKY_CAPS AUF IHRER VERKAUFSFLÄCHE, MIT DIESEM MASSANGEFERTIGTEN DISPLAY

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• IN ÜBER 40 FARBEN • KRATZT NICHT • LEIERT NICHT AUS • MADE IN ITALY •

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Ben and

BRAND POWER Ben, you have some exciting news

to share. What is it?

Ben Botas, owner of Ben and: Yes, we are obviously delighted to be able to represent Peuterey in Germany. We now intend to strengthen the positioning of Peuterey as a premium brand, which also affects placement in department stores. We are shifting away from the regular department towards its premium counterpart. The Peuterey collection is divided into several lines, which we will now present in an even more differentiated manner at retail partners. For example, we will detach the design-oriented Plurals line from the main range and exclusively work with five premium retailers in Germany to create a clearer distinction.

You have also expanded once more as an agency.

In Munich, we recently rented an independent showroom for our young brands Na-kd, Gina Trikot, and Minimum. It is located in “Kurfürstenstrasse”, a mere five-minute walk from our main showroom. As in Düsseldorf, we can now also offer each of our three units an individual stage in Munich. Our showroom area now stands at 1,200 square metres and 1,300 square metres in Munich and Düsseldorf respectively.

You introduced Les Visionnaires last season.

It was an instant success. We have already attracted 150 customers, among them prestigious names such as Breuninger, Engelhorn, and Classico. The trendy, high-quality leather bags at retail prices between 150 and 250 Euros are unique and exactly what many customers have been looking for: A 100 percent leather bag brand that offers fresh designs at commercial prices – fairly manufactured to boot!

Labels: Axel Arigato, Beck Söndergaard, Chimi, Elias Rumelis, Filippa K., Free People, GCDS, Gina Trikot, Hvisk, La Martina, Les Visionnaires, Limitato, Loci, Masons’s, Minimum, Moose Knuckles, Na-kd, Nu-In, Peuterey, Rag & Bone, Second Female, Stefan Brandt, Wood Ben and, Munich & Düsseldorf/ Germany, agency@ben-and.com, www.ben-and.com

Absolutely premium: Ben and now represents Peuterey throughout Germany.

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Niklas Rill Fashion Agency

Agentur Evelyn Muth

ON POINT

INTERPLAY OF COLOURS

A new arrival at Agentur Evelyn Muth are luxurious bags by Le Tanneur of France, which combine traditional craftsmanship and innovation. “Le Tanneur is a great fit for the German market; customers are ready for something new,” says Christiane Peek, who is successfully running her mother Evelyn Muth’s sales agency after taking over. “The appreciation for quality is returning, which is why durable products are now even more profitable.”

Typical for Le Tanneur is the interplay of colours, as evidenced in the Love is Love capsule featuring bags in rainbow colours. Retail prices range from 250 to 550 Euros.

The espadrilles by Castaner impress with craftsmanship and exciting design collaborations, most recently with Altuzarra. “I also rely heavily on DKNY. The collection is developing palpably, and the price-performance ratio is convincing,” says Peek. The material of the hour is denim combined with quilted lamb nappa. Colour blocking is also a major trend, as are retro elements in fastenings and knot detailing on straps. Last season’s best performer? “Clergerie,” answers Peek. “We were able to attract prestigious new customers such as Unger and Frauenschuh, and the sales figures prove to us that the creative collection is spot-on.”

Labels: Arche, Avril Gau, Castaner, Clergerie, DKNY, L’Autre Chose, Le Tanneur, Maison Mollerus Agentur Evelyn Muth, Düsseldorf/ Germany, info@evelynmuth.de, www.evelynmuth.de

Clergerie impresses with its distinct design language and is manufactured exclusively in France.

Scaglione impresses with innovative knitwear.

Room Nine Agency

ABOVE AVERAGE Torsten, what exactly is your focus after the challenging seasons of late?

Torsten Müller, Managing Director of Room Nine Agency: We are focusing on our roots: premium sportswear for men. A new addition is Just Cavalli, a tonguein-cheek couture collection. It is well-conceived, high-quality, and impresses with perfect delivery service. There is a real hype about the t-shirts and sweats, which is why the brand is becoming really popular with men.

We believe in it unreservedly!

What else do you believe in?

In the new, cool sportswear by Soho New York, which features plenty of colour and prints with a positive attitude. We also believe in the authentic outerwear by Holubar, which is becoming much more creative and colourful, incorporating innovative, functional materials.

What are your perennial best­ sellers?

Moschino Underwear. Sales are above average, especially men’s underwear. Michael Kors underwear is distinctly fashionable, with many designs and a logo on the waistband.

Nik, you are a sales agent who enjoys manning the sales floor.

Niklas Rill, owner of Niklas Rill Fashion Agency: Yes, I only recently had great fun doing just that at Stulz, Daniels, and Mientus.

It allows me to learn what makes my brands popular. My job actually intensifies around the time of delivery. Will the goods arrive on time?

Where can we help, maybe even exchange goods? Small retailers in particular benefit from that.

Your brands are pushing the womenswear segment.

Yes. In the case of The Nim, womenswear outpaced menswear for the first time this summer. That is unusual for this brand environment.

The collection was on point! Retailers want fresh boyfriend styles and balloon fits, complemented by non-denims and cargos. Overshirts and denim blazers are a cool match for that. Scaglione’s knitwear has even tripled sales, as the innovative yarns in great colours allowed me to enthuse many new customers. Bowery is launching a special sweatshirt capsule featuring hoodies and crewnecks for women.

Labels: Bowery, Scaglione, The Nim Standard Niklas Rill Fashion Agency, Düsseldorf/Germany, mail@maend.de, www.niklasrill.de

Franco-Swedish sportswear by Ron Dorff impresses with cut, colour, and quality.

Labels: Holubar, Just Cavalli, Michael Kors Underwear, Moschino Underwear, Ron Dorff, Soho New York Room Nine Agency, Düsseldorf/Germany, torsten. mueller@roomnineagency.de, www.roomnineagency.de

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Michaelis Fashion Agency

SUCCESS STORY

Paul x Claire is back on the market and new to Daniela and René Michaelis’ portfolio. “Due to the pandemic, the success story had to be put on hold a year ago. Now Paul x Claire Donna has returned with new, fresh, and familiar creativity,” says René Michaelis, who represents the brand in Bavaria, Baden-Württemberg, and Hesse. Another addition to the Bavarian portfolio is Goldgarn.

Besides accessible models, the premium fashion segment will be further expanded without compromising the label’s DNA. “There is also a charitable aspect in play, because one Euro is donated to charity for every pair of jeans sold.” Genesis is adding knitwear to its exceptional Southern French-style dresses this autumn. “The sales of Absolut Cashmere have exploded, not least thanks to 30 brilliant colours and a style that is as comprehensible as it is individual,” says Michaelis. “High-fashion cashmere by Crush complements it perfectly.”

Labels: Absolut Cashmere, Crush, Genesis, Goldgarn, Paul x Claire, Yippie Hippie Michaelis Fashion Agency, Munich/Germany, mail@michaelis-fashion-agency.com, www.michaelis-fashion-agency.com

Perfect for everyday use and special occasions alike: Absolut Cashmere.

Komet und Helden

Adventure Fashion Agency

STRONG DIVISIONS Flo, which brands are new to your portfolio?

Florian Ranft, owner of Komet und Helden: Filson and Spiewak, which completes our urban division featuring brands such as Dickies, Baracuta, and Deus ex Machina. We have separated this segment spatially and assigned it an independent sales team to reflect its different clientele. For Dickies, we maintain a separate showroom for Dickies Lifewear and Dickies Workwear, which means that we address premium and workwear retailers alongside our lifestyle customers. It is an exciting balancing act that works well for the iconic Dickies brand!

Our contemporary division remains strong with Barena, Halfboy, and Aspesi. The latter collection is now significantly more fashionable. It has launched a new archive collection featuring new, contemporary interpretations of outerwear icons from the last 20 years. Blauer USA is also evolving with its new B.Tactical line for men, which is a great complement to the Blauer jacket.

Sweats and knits, for example, are already performing extraordinarily well. B.Tactical strikes a nerve, because the line combines urban style with the topics of travelling and protection.

You are also strong in outerwear. ottod’Ame epitomises the total look, but is experiencing strong growth in coats and jackets, which is why we are launching a dedicated outerwear collection for the fashion-informed customer. Save the Duck’s innovation level is also incredible, offering hybrid styles incorporating sweats and knits. The brand is equally powerful in communicating its sustainability. Personally, I believe it is no longer sufficient to merely offer a really good product.

Labels: 7 for all mankind, AG, Aniven, Aspesi, Baracuta, Barena Venezia, Blauer USA, C.T. Plage, Deus ex Machina, Dickies, Filson, Halfboy, Hartford, Le Bonnet, ottod’Ame, Purple Brand, Save the Duck, Seldom, Spiewak, Universal Works, White Sand Komet und Helden, Munich & Düsseldorf/Germany, info@kometundhelden.de, www.kometundhelden.de

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Kashette, a fully integrated Chinese cashmere specialist, is now showing its full potential.

NEW STIMULI

A permanent fixture at Komet and Helden: the Aspesi collection.

Marc Kofler and his Adventure Fashion Agency are always on the lookout for new stimuli. “It is important for us to present new looks that will surprise our customers every season. Last season was excellent: both our established brands and newcomers posted great sales and we could hardly keep up with demand, especially in the outerwear segment.” For the coming season, Adventure Fashion Agency is thrilled to present the expanded Kashette range. The cashmere label, founded in 2020, operates its own goat farm and spinning mill, which makes is unbeatable in terms of quality and reliability. Kofler remembers: “Last season, the owner himself delivered the goods to the first German customers – how great is that?”

Another newcomer is Italian sneaker collection W6YZ (just say WIZZ): A combination of perfect fit and typical Italian design, and a colourful alternative to classic white trainers.

Labels: Moonstar, Cosy love pure, DL1961 Denim, Duno, Iheart, Janthee Berlin, Kashette, Odd molly, Orciani, Rosa & Me, RR’s, Sebago, Tonno & Panna, Trvl Drss, Trusted Handwork, Urbancode, W6YZ Adventure Fashion Agency, Düsseldorf/Germany, info@adventure-gmbh.de, www.adventure-gmbh.de

Zwanzig Jahre Room with a View Zwanzig Jahre Begeisterung für Mode Zwanzig Jahre Leidenschaft für Menschen Zwanzig Jahre Heimat für frische Gedanken Zwanzig Jahre Arbeit bis zum ersten eigenen Store Zwanzig Jahre Herzblut für Veränderung Zwanzig Jahre Mut für Neues Zwanzig Jahre Entwicklung Richtung Ökologie Danke an unsere Wegbegleiter für zwanzig Jahre Treue.

www.roomwithaview.at

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Elvis Fashion Agency

Agentur Matthias Schwarte

“CLEAR TENDENCY TOWARDS VALUE”

BEST PERFORMANCE Matthias, you have exciting news.

Matthias Schwarte, owner of Agentur Matthias Schwarte: Yes, we are now also the sales partner for Parajumpers in Austria. Our performance in Germany was clearly convincing. The brand is growing, while we remain selective in our sales strategy and the innovative variety of products is bearing fruit. We are looking forward to presenting the label to German and Austrian customers in our Munich showroom.

Apart from that, you are relying on your existing portfolio.

Weber + Weber is developing very well, especially with the women’s collection gaining momentum. The label is successful with jointly managed spaces at customers such as Sagmeister, Lodenfrey and Jelmoli, where the brand is attracting increasing attention via shop windows and an amplified online presence. The feedback is positive throughout! Daniele Fiesoli is cranking up the pace with the new women’s collection. It is a distinct advantage that the brand is manufactured in Italy, which benefits both quality and delivery reliability.

Labels: Armani Exchange, Balr, Collezione 01, Daniele Fiesoli, Fil Noir, Mason Garments, Parajumpers, People of Shibuya, Replumè, Rubirosa, Sundek, Weber + Weber Agentur Matthias Schwarte, Munich/ Germany, office@agentur-schwarte.de, www.agentur-schwarte.de

High-quality products, primarily manufactured in Italy, are the core competence of Elvis Fashion Agency.

Sassenbach is among the Daily Business brands recently taken over by Patrick Ebnöther.

The Wearhouse

“We are delighted to take over the Daily Business portfolio from Annette Bailleux following her recent retirement,”

Replumè presents a comprehensive collection featuring styles made of recycled down, thus providing an additional selling point.

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says Patrick Ebnöther. “It integrates perfectly with our own, meaning we can display everything under one roof. It is a challenging task, but optimal space utilisation and staggered sales times make it possible.” Ebnöther can rely on the support of long-time Bailleux confidant Julia Winkler. The list of brands includes Crush, Dea Kudibal, FFC Cashmere, Sassenbach, Punto 12, Tantä, Via Masini, Velvet, and Wunderfell. www.wearhouse.ch, www.dailybusiness.ch

Reflecting on the past season, Elvis Giglione can confidently claim: “There is a clear trend towards value. People are looking for high-quality products now, and my portfolio satisfies that demand very well.” Elvis Fashion Agency continues to rely on highly sought-after products next season: washable jogging suits by Tombolini, as well as the label’s Running series and its Zero Gravity collection. These lines offer exactly what the modern man needs: a blend of high-quality materials, comfort, sportiness, and business look.

The Gigi remains focused on jackets in comfortable cuts and “tinto in capo”.

Cashmere brand Fioroni impresses with knitwear featuring zippers: sustainable and unsurpassably soft. A new addition to the agency’s portfolio is the men’s collection of Alpha Studio, which Giglione now represents throughout the DACH region.

Labels: Alpha Studio, Bagutta, Brooksfield, Capobianco, Cruna, Fioroni Cashmere, Francesco Pieri, Manto, The Gigi, Tombolini Elvis Fashion Agency, Munich/Germany, elvis.giglione@elvis-fashion.com, www.elvisfashion.com

FRANKFURT FASHION WEEK JANUARY 17–21, 2022

VISIT FRANKFURT.FASHION AND LEARN MORE.

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Die Hinterhofagentur

SPIRIT OF OPTIMISM

Agentur Ventrella

EXCITEMENT PREVAILS “The situation remains very exciting, especially as the industry is really revving up now,” says Michele Ventrella. “Our collections offer amazing innovations, on which Gaby has worked closely with the various manufacturers, thus playing a key role in shaping them. As a result, customers can create a coherent mix from the universe of Ventrella brands. One thing is certain: we cannot wait to bring this work to life in our showrooms in Munich and Düsseldorf.”

Agentur Ventrella also has Frankfurt on its agenda, by the way.

What can customers look forward to? Bazar Deluxe has launched its first menswear collection: Bazar Deluxe Crew. The pieces are inspired by the modern adventurer and consist of knitted elements paired with wool or down. Every item comes in the signature Bazar look: a little Navajo, a little ethno-look, yet always masculine and robust. Avant Toi remains as colourful as ever with very bright and intense colours paired with ultra-soft knitwear looks such as Cashmere Garzato.

In addition, the label debuts a genderless collection for the autumn/winter 2022/23 season. Tagliatore is also venturing into new territory with a small capsule of knits for men and women: ten pieces per collection in the finest materials such as cashmere and merino wool. All styles perfectly match the look and DNA of Tagliatore, manufactured by an Italian knitwear specialist. Giemme Brands Corporate will be launching a new line to complement Caliban Donna and Le Sarte Pettegole: Tintoria Mattei Donna. The style is based on the men’s line, conveying a cool, contemporary, and modern fashion statement.

Labels: 813, Avant Toi, Backsideclub, Bazar Deluxe, BDL Crew, Bush, Caliban, College, Ennequadro, Giovi, Le Sarte Pettegole, Ndv Project, Nove, Nine in the Morning, Pao, Tagliatore, Tintoria Mattei Donna & Uomo Agentur Ventrella, Munich & Düsseldorf/ Germany, mode@agentur-ventrella.de, www.agentur-ventrella.de

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“Every single label we represent is in an optimistic mood,” Dominik Meuer, owner of the Backyard Agency, says happily. “The corona crisis has served as a wake-up call for many. Manuel Ritz, for example, has hired a new creative director to promote innovation, and RRD has appointed a new, experienced export manager who specialises in reorganisation. Bob’s menswear generated excellent sales during the second corona winter, as did Des Petit Hauts’ womenswear. The high-flyer in the upcoming third season is Fourten of Naples, a label which offers contemporary trousers for men at an incredible value for money.” The agency welcomes back Italian blouse label Sophie, which Meuer had already represented in Bavaria a few seasons ago. Now he is in charge for the brand’s sales in the entire German market. “Despite the current difficult retail environment, we sense a positive mood and a great desire for change. That gives us a lot of strength.”

Labels: Ad Hoc, Atelier Alpinist, Bob, Bread & Boxers, Fabulous Island, Fourten, Hamlet, Koike, Manuel Ritz, Original Vintage Style, RRD, Portofiori, Prime Shoes, Sophie, Taylor Tweed, Wool & Co Die Hinterhofagentur, Munich/Germany, info@diehinterhofagentur.de, www.diehinterhofagentur.de

Model Tara Schwed in loungewear by Onedaybaby, which Meta Pesch markets jointly with Meike Schilcher in Bavaria.

Meta Pesch

“Our youngster Mützen­ mafia has enjoyed a great start,” says

Meta Pesch. “Along with Daddy’s Daughters, Amuse, Onedaybaby, and Derbe, we now have five excellent horses that make us very happy in our stable.” Meta Pesch’s main focus is to gain new customers for her new labels and to restore stability among her customers located in ski resorts. “Every brand is genuinely important to us. We pour our heart and soul into everything we do.”

IG: meta.pesch_fashion.agent

In safe hands: Handstich is a new addition to Agentur Wagner’s portfolio.

Agentur Wagner “We now represent Handstich in central and northern Germany,”

Des Petits Hauts guarantees success, especially in the knitwear segment.

says a delighted Marcus Heck, partner at Agentur Wagner. “I am particularly excited by the fact that the brand has an unmistakable signature style with which I can fully identify.

The quality of the meticulously manufactured outerwear is visible in every detail. Handstich is also a great fit for our brand environment featuring DU4, Phil Petter, and MMX, for which we also have our sights set on upmarket specialist retailers.”

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Modeagentur Klaus “We introduce innovation via our existing product portfolio,”

says Christian Klaus, referring to casual and comfortable collections with a distinct identity. “The first moods of labels such as Penn&Ink N.Y, Humility, and Oakwood suggest plenty of innovation.” A newcomer is Henriette Steffensen of Denmark. “We like the look, qualities, and sustainable approach.

It is important to us that our brands are not available everywhere, because this results in a universally clean pricing policy.” www. modeagentur-klaus.at

Heubel Modeagentur

FOCUS ON INDIVIDUALISATION “Products that are individually manufactured in Europe to customer specifications are becoming increasingly important for our retail partners,” explains Mark Heubel.

The agency promotes premium leather jackets and gilets by Heinz Bauer Manufakt, which can be custom-made in Germany upon request. It is also in the third year of representing Austrian footwear label Handmacher. The special feature of the latter is that customers can not only choose

three different lasts from a range of popular models, but they can also customise the shoes in terms of leather type, colour, and outsole. Quasi made-to-measure sneakers that resemble classic bowling shoes are currently in particularly high demand.

Labels: Deserious, Desoto Luxury, Di Poldo, Geox, Gloverall, Handmacher, Heinz Bauer Manufakt, Lodenfrey 1842, Outdoor Survival Canada, Wallmann Heubel Modeagentur, Düsseldorf/Germany, mark@heubel.info, www.heubel.info

Henriette Steffensen is a newcomer at Modeagentur Klaus.

Paul’s Selection

“GTA revolutionises trousers with a waist comfort band in the cuff for ultimate comfort,” says Paul Schulz,

owner of Paul’s Selection. “Now trousers that do not fit no longer exist, for both men and women.” Outerwear brand Kired is launching younger styles at lower prices. “Henderson Baracco focuses on fashionable shoes with super comfortable Vibram soles,” says Schulz. “All brands offer sensational customer service.” www.paulsselection.com

GTA trousers are now even more comfortable thanks to a waist comfort band.

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Agentur Prins-Juric

DON’T BE SHY! The fun element is never neglected: Damir Prins-Juric is known for making ordering at the agency, which he runs with his husband Henk Prins, a fun experience. “I truly love our customers and am very happy for them when things go really well. It is especially encouraging to see how so many have made the most of the difficult times by coming forward and using social media and the like to really expand the reach of their stores. I have incredible respect for that,” the agency owner says.

“Anyone who has such a tight connection to their target group is in a position to introduce new brands. With brands like Wushu or Josh V, we got off to a great start despite the pandemic, and now we are looking forward to rolling out these brands here.”

Labels: + People, 1 One, Afterlabel, Ana Alcazar, Barb’One, Bobi, Brand Unique, Cacatoes Sandals, Camouflage Couture, Coreterno, Devotion Twins, DSCVR, Emma & Gaia, Emily Lovelock, Floor, Ganesh, GN_ madeunique, Herzensangelegenheit, Icon, Ivko, Johnny Was, Josh V, Koon, Les Tricots d’O, Lotus Eaters, Love Joy Victory, MDK, NIMO, Notshy Cashmere, Penn & Ink N.Y, Potzy, Smaak Amsterdam, Smashed Lemon, TOF, Voluspa, Wushu Agentur Prins-Juric, info@prins-juric.com, www.prins-juric.com

Successful development: Notshy of Paris captures the zeitgeist perfectly.

CANADIANCLASSICS.IT

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MODEist

Meier-Rybinski

COMEBACKS, BESTSELLER, AND START-UPS

DESIGN COMPETENCE The Düsseldorf agency has three new brands under its belt. My name is Jeans offers perfect fits in denim stretch that retains its shape; the label maintains a strong stock range. “The purchase prices ranging from 60 to 70 Euros are terrific, plus the prices of the core collection are never discounted,” says Anna-Zoi Rybinski. Another new addition is the handcrafted cashmere collection by Panicale, part of a family business in Perugia considered to be one of the oldest knitting mills in Umbria. Renowned designer Alessandro de Benedetti, who is also responsible for the creative input at Romeo Gigli, is now launching a total look collection under his own name. “After a strong summer with tunic dresses, Kerry Grima is now focusing on knitwear and leather featuring braided details and plenty of craftsmanship,” Rybinski reveals.

“The scarves by Pin 1876 are guaranteed bestsellers. We receive repeat orders every day, simply because quality and colours are unrivalled.”

Labels: Alessandro de Benedetti, Boutique Moschino, Kerry Grima, Max & Moi, My name is Jeans, Panicale, Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini, Pin 1876 by Botto Guiseppe Agentur Meier-Rybinski, Düsseldorf/Germany, info@meier-rybinski.de, www.meier-rybinski.de

Marion and Timothy Hoferer rely on the perfect dose of consistency and reliability: they mix their brands like Sold Out, Pride to Be, or Dolores with an exciting international portfolio. This season’s newcomers are jewellery label Wald Berlin, jackets and coats by Lost in Me, and agency returnee Destin, which delights with unisex scarves and overshirts. A portfolio that is just as appealing to individual boutiques as it is to concept or department stores. “In view of the current supply crisis, it is imperative to draw much closer together,” says Marion Hoferer with conviction.

Labels: Alpaca Loca, Controfigura, Destin, Dolores…, Gudrun & Gudrun, Kooreloo, La Milanesa, Lost in Me, Pride to Be, Sassenbach, Seamless Basic, Sold Out, T-Coat, Wald Berlin MODEist, Munich & Düsseldorf/Germany, info@b-kleidung.de, www.modeist.com

Circolo 1901 has added carefully colour-coordinated athletic looks to its classic range.

Heritage Showroom

CAREFULLY CONCEIVED

Modern Italian elegance: Coats by Lost in Me are a new addition to the MODEist portfolio.

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Wahts Amsterdam is new to the agency.

“The collection is both casual and clean, featuring a broader range complemented by scuba hoodies and overshirts,” says Michael Brockmann. “We have been affiliated with Wahts for a long time and are looking forward to developing the label together.”

Circolo 1901 has responded to market trends with a pre-collection focusing on womenswear. “Classic remains the focal point, complemented by sporty styles,” explains Brockmann. Overall, the collection is carefully conceived and combines colours harmoniously. “Sales figures tell us that Myths is on a promising trajectory. The focus is on trousers with a sophisticated jogging character, supplemented by well-made technical trousers and a wide range of boiled wool pieces.”

Brockmann is really enjoying his work again.

“The retailers have a handle on their stock, not least due to excellent sales. That is the best feedback we can hope for.”

Labels: Candy Candle Hamburg, Circolo 1901, Ko Samui Tailors, Matéma, Myths, Wahts Amsterdam Heritage Showroom, Munich/Germany, info@heritage-showroom.de, www.heritage-showroom.de

Boutique Moschino’s range runs from classic to fashionable.

RESEARCH ATTITUDE myths.it

@myths_official

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20 years of room with a view means countless milestones, successes, setbacks, and a constant back-and-forth. But above all, it is all about the people who have filled this space with life and allow it to grow in new ways every day.

Room with a view

A WINDOW TO THE WORLD Christian, you are celebrating 20 years of room with a view. What are you most proud of?

Christian Obojes, founder of room with a view: I cannot single out a particular moment, I think. There were so many things – and above all so many people – along the way that make me, and us, happy to this day. I think we can say that we have always gone fully in.

Retrofame, the first showroom with the legendary kitchen, the LA Denim phase, the launch of brands like HTC, Ed Hardy, and Giorgio Brato, a branch in Switzerland, the founding and subsequent sale of Free Mountain, the launch of Warm-Me, the showroom in Germany, your own build­ ing in Salzburg, the early deep dive into sustainability, and now your own store – is this what you call serial entrepreneurship?

Christian Obojes: We are movers and shakers. We simply love being proactive, and love to experiment. Looking back, I regard these twenty years as a continuous challenge. It was not always a walk in the park, but a journey with highlights and successes that encouraged us to keep going and keep asking ourselves how things could be even better and more beautiful. My approach of perceiving life as a Super G rather than a leisurely ski tour seems to be in my genes, written in the stars, or god knows what. But I refuse to complain about that, because my environment, the colleagues and employees, the partners, and the people behind the brands make all this so special.

Iris Obojes, founder of room with a view: Looking back is a wonderful opportunity to appreciate how much has happened in the last 20 years. room with a view is moulded

by Christian’s flair for trends and his will to pioneer. He searches, finds, builds, believes, and simply moves forward fearlessly. Add to that my sense for the supposedly less commercial aspects of our business: the aesthetics, the energy of our showrooms, and the question of what it takes for our team to develop in the best possible way.

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What makes you unique?

Iris Obojes: Our openness and spontaneity, the fact that we always seek an honest exchange. Our eye for new things, for trends, for future relevant ways of earning money. We create a setting that reveals this interplay, that makes encounters possible. A setting in which everyone feels comfortable – our customers, our suppliers, and we ourselves.

This vision is embedded in the name, is it not?

Iris Obojes: The inspiration for the name came from our first showroom in Faberstrasse. All those rooms paired with our vision of a showroom. Always looking out through a window to the world.

RIGHT NOW Fortela

NOW THE LADIES Fortela, a brand created by agent and style icon Alessandro Squarzi, is now turning its attention to women: “The idea to launch Fortela Store Woman & Vintage Selection and Fortela Donna came about as a result of increasing demand from female customers looking for iconic unisex pieces – such as denim, military trousers, and t-shirts – in my other stores.

These vintage must-haves now combine with the vision of Alessia Giacobino, with whom I have designed this new collection.” For his brand, Alessandro Squarzi blends Italian style with his vintage expertise. He finds inspiration all over the world. Milan’s Via Melzo 19, for instance, offers a large selection of vintage denim by heritage brands such as Levi’s, Lee, and Walls. www.fortela.it Fortela, created by Alessandro Squarzi, dedicates its fourth store to women.

Stetson

THE SCENT OF FREEDOM The pursuit of freedom, independence, and fulfilment symbolises the authentic heritage and spirit of the American West. Stetson started manufacturing its distinctive western hats, which embody this American spirit like no other, in 1865. In keeping with this spirit, Stetson’s “Original”, a fragrance that impresses with its exquisite blend of rich, woody, and citrusy spices, is now also available in Germany. Initially, the oriental scent is quite powerful, but its natural citrus and sage nuances gradually transition into a light, woody note. The corresponding aftershave “Splash” is characterised by striking top notes of lavender, sage, and citrus. The heart note contains patchouli, vetiver, cedarwood, and geranium, while the base note features honey, tonka bean, amber, musk, and vanilla. This pure, masculine fragrance is ideal for daily use, as the care product also provides a pleasantly cooling skin sensation and helps reduce skin irritation after shaving. www.stetson-europe.com

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Distinctive and masculine: Stetson is now introducing its eau-de-cologne and aftershave to the European market.

Silvia Stein Bocchese has been running Maglificio Miles, a renowned manufacturing company, for more than 50 years.

Maglificio Miles

“I HAVE NEVER QUESTIONED MY ROLE” Mrs Stein Bocchese, you have been chairwoman of your company Magli­ ficio Miles for more than 50 years. To what extent has the role of women in the Italian fashion world evolved?

Silvia Stein Bocchese, Chairwoman of Maglificio Miles: It has changed massively. I founded my company with my husband in Vicenza in 1962. I was born in Switzerland. My upbringing, a somewhat different mentality, and divergent culture made it possible for me to travel through Europe alone by train to present my creations to the likes of Yves Saint Laurent in Paris as early as the 1970s.

That was something very special back then. After my husband’s early death, my mother joined the company to help me – another woman. To be honest, I have never questioned my role. I had to function, do my job. But I do recognise that, as a woman, you are now much more aware of your role. Women define more ambitious goals for themselves and celebrate much success achieving them.

What are the three most important qualities of female leadership?

Creativity, passion, and genuine respect for others.

What are the key differences between male and female leadership?

From my experience, I can say that independence and determination can also be female characteristics. And we women have this „harmonising“ role that is absolutely essential for the creation, development, and success of a business.

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Dynamism and modernity are the cornerstones of Distretto 12 menswear.

Distretto 12

RELIABILITY IS KEY Alessandro, how was 2021?

Alessandro Hong, CEO of Distretto 12: In 2021, Distretto 12 reaped what it had sown in 2020. The last year was truly a year of great reprise. We invested all our efforts in building an even better internal structure, as well as establishing a stronger retail network and a more targeted communication strategy. This has had a positive effect on sales figures: We have already reached pre-pandemic sales levels, and the trend remains on an upward trajectory.

What is the secret to a successful reprise?

Reliability is key. We always delivered punctually, even when times were tough. In addition, we focused on communication and interaction. All of us – production, marketing, and sales agents – always remained united as a team to show our customers that we are there for them. The excellent quality of our products is, of course, also an important factor.

What will the 2022/23 autumn/winter collection bring?

The Distretto 12 collections are geared towards the dynamic man par excellence. He travels extensively, is always on the move, and needs comfortable yet stylish clothes. He wants to be able to go straight from work to the cocktail bar without changing his look. We will continue to incorporate sportswear materials while remaining true to our typical smart, casual mindset.

What are your objectives for the immediate future, especially in the DACH region?

The German-speaking market is my top priority.

I just returned from a three-week tour of your region. The market has welcomed us with open arms, and we are determined to continue in the same vein. Our five-year goal is to reach the 30 million Euros turnover mark.

Alessandro Hong is the CEO of Distretto 12.

Circolo 1901

ENGAGING HEARTS AND MINDS

Gennario Dargenio, CEO of Circolo 1901, pictured at the construction site of the new headquarters in Barletta, Puglia.

Gennaro, what is your assessment of 2021? How did Circolo 1901 perform in Germany?

Gennaro Dargenio, CEO Circolo 1901: 2021 was a special year, marked by plenty of uncertainty and the fear of yet another lockdown. But we always remained optimistic and continued to do what we do best: work on our collections and make them even more contemporary to meet market demands more effectively. We also invested heavily in communication. It is important to us that the history, the soul, and the DNA of Circolo 1901 reach the end consumer. These measures have had a positive effect and we are very satisfied with sales volumes. The figures in Germany were also satisfactory.

What can we expect from the new autumn/winter collection 2022?

We will continue to display collections that aspire to meet the zeitgeist, as well as to identify and serve current market trends. We attach great importance to the balance between renewal and tradition. We rely on pieces that are innovatively manufactured, yet still convey the heritage of our region (Puglia), our people, and our DNA. What are the next major steps?

We have so many projects lined up. The ones we can share right now include the realisation of the new headquarters and the amplification of our communication strategy. The new offices, which extend over more than 3,000 square metres, are intended as a gift to the greater Circolo 1901 family. As far as communication is concerned, it has never been more important for us to engage the hearts and minds of end consumers.

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Silk Sisters expresses a feminine understanding of fashion.

Silk Sisters

WOMEN FOR WOMEN Melanie, your casual, self-evident col­ lection shows that you do not approach fashion from a male perspective.

Melanie Nienaber, co-owner of Silk Sisters: I became involved in fashion because I saw a lack of options. My personal wardrobe has to be inter-combinable, in patterns and colours.

That view defines my approach for Silk Sisters: the silk blouse goes with jogging pants; the dress looks cool worn over trousers.

This new understanding of women‘s fashion has emancipated itself from male views, a development that female influencers on Instagram have helped to foster. Women are now wearing looks they would not have had the courage to wear in the past.

What do women need to feel comfortable in Silk Sisters?

First of all, silk that washes easily and flows beautifully. Organic cotton has more edge, complemented by sustainably produced fabrics such as viscose, Tencel, and Cupro.

The latter is as soft as a peach skin. Wider and longer cut pieces enhance the feel-good factor, accentuated by a plunging neckline or a bow. I try to add such details as the proverbial icing on the cake.

Your manufacturing processes are also heavily influenced by women.

We are a small label created by women for women. Both our partner companies in the Czech Republic and in Portugal demonstrate how much the supply chain is controlled by women. This also determines how we collaborate: once women have developed trust in each other, they are fiercely loyal and assume responsibility. A great foundation for Silk Sisters! www.silk-sisters.de

Peuterey

BEN AND HIRED AS GERMAN SALES PARTNER Peuterey, an Italian brand renowned worldwide for luxury outerwear, intends to advance and accelerate its expansion in the German market as of this season. For this purpose, Peuterey has teamed up with sales agency Ben And GmbH (B&). In the last three years, the brand has experienced continuous double-digit growth in the DACH region and aims to increase its turnover from currently 6.7 million Euros to more than 10 million Euros by 2025. The new partner Ben And, founded in 2010, is among the leading sales agencies in Germany and the German-speaking markets. With two locations in Munich/ Schwabing (900 sqm showroom) and in Düsseldorf (1,300 sqm showroom),

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the company can guarantee a blanket presence throughout Germany. This should facilitate the amplification of distribution, concretely tripling the number of multi-brand stores and strengthening brand presence in the country’s finest department stores by 2025. The plan includes the reinforcement of the jacket label’s positioning and image through visual merchandising, while power-selling campaigns promote in-store sales.

The collaboration with Ben And also stipulates that, from the autumn/winter sales campaign onwards, a team of six will be dedicated exclusively to Peuterey to best convey the brand’s values and storytelling, as well as to guarantee retailers reliable and timely service.

Italian jacket brand Peuterey has agreed upon ambitious goals with Ben And; a six-person team exclusively dedicated to Peuterey is tasked with realising them.

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Pride to Be

THE NEW COAT “Personally, I see the waistcoat worn over down or knits as the new coat,” says Marion Hoferer, who demonstrates a special flair for sophisticated bestsellers by representing the Pride to Be collection. A delicate balance of surprise and wearability is what makes Pride to Be a hidden champion across all retail partners.

Wayout is the name of the new outerwear collection that ottod’Ame is debuting this autumn.

ottod’Ame

WAYOUT ottod’Ame ventures outdoors. The sustainable label from Florence presents an independent outerwear line for the coming season: Wayout.

“Following the huge success of our down jackets in the last winter collections, we decided to take this step and offer a capsule of 30 models and five accessories,” says designer Silvia Mazzoli. Since its foundation, the company has championed ethical fashion and been a great advocate of animal welfare and sustainable production in general. The outerwear features 70 percent recycled materials and is lined exclusively with paddings of non-animal origin. The colour palette is dominated by solid colours like military green, black, gold, and purple, but the range also includes models with polka dots and tweed effects. To give the project its own identity, ottod’Ame has designed a dedicated labelling system: hang tags, inside and outside labels, and pins bearing the new logo are applied to all garments. www.ottodame.com

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Pride to Be enters the new season with checked, double-faced, and plain wool coats. Eye-catchers such as ankle-length overshirts and trenches in short teddy qualities have the potential to become favourite pieces.

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Luis Trenker

SLOW FASHION Luis Trenker has a truly unique DNA, more so than most other brands. You are, howev­ er, stepping it up yet another notch.

Michi Klemera, owner of Luis Trenker: The fantastic feedback we are receiving in our new stores in Salzburg, Munich, and Bolzano confirms that we are on the right track. The term slow fashion has been an integral part of our company philosophy ever since our foundation 25 years ago.

How does the collection reflect this ap­ proach?

Our affinity with nature is expressed in the processing of high-quality, natural materials, with a focus on textiles manufactured in Italy.

For autumn/winter 2022, we revive a traditional boiled wool jacket from the Salzburg region.

We are convinced that we can tap into the premium market with such a collection. It has been condensed by 30 percent and divided into three distinct topics. Essential Easywear embraces everyday casualness, while the main Academy collection reinterprets the college look. This is where you find our Heritage outfits as a tribute to our roots, which manifest themselves in natural, undyed materials. Urban Sophisticated is the more elegant range for special occasions. A highlight is the capsule of technical outdoor parkas for men and women, featuring distinctive printed linings.

You also have news in terms of sales.

Yes, exactly. As of this season, responsibility for sales in Germany lies with Kai Jördens, with the aim of establishing the brand as a permanent fixture in the premium lifestyle segment.

For Switzerland, we were able to win Andreas Allenbach as a new representative, while Meike Schilcher remains a committed partner for Austria. www.luistrenker.com

Michi Klemera is the living embodiment of his Luis Trenker brand.

Steiner 1888

LAUNCH OF BAGS AND ACCESSORIES

Steiner 1888 adds bags and accessories to its product portfolio. The sales representative is Agentur Stolz.

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As of autumn/winter 2022/23, a small, refined line of bags complements Steiner 1888’s outerwear.

Ranging from weekenders to toilet bags, the pieces made of loden mark a firm step towards establishing an all-year collection. Available in colour-blocked styles and many colour variations, the accessories perfectly bridge the gap to Steiner 1888’s home collection. www.steiner1888.com

Fly3

WHAT KNITWEAR CAN DO Gente di Mare is the driving force behind several outstanding knitwear products from Italy. Fly3, a company based near Ancona that adds functional value to knitwear, is an excellent example. www.fly3.it

Water-repellent knitwear? Fly3 makes it possible.

www.cruna.com Showroom Elvis Fashion Agency: München (Germany) www.elvisfashion.com Showroom Cruna: Via Pier Lombardo 23, Milano (Italy)

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No longer a mere blouse label: Edelle womenswear also offers cashmere pieces and dresses.

Freedomday is all about the outdoor experience. In its autumn/ winter 2022/23 collection, the Italian brand combines style and functionality. The focus is on technical materials such as softshell, elastic nylon, and neoprene with additional properties. The collection features clean designs and monochrome styles. While the Woman and Junior Girl lines convey a fashionable touch, Man and Junior Boy are characterised by sportswear. The aim is to make consumers feel comfortable at all times. To this end, the collections are designed down to the smallest detail to cover a wide range of outdoor styles and functional requirements. www.freedomday.it

Edward Copper

“WE MAKE SHIRTS!” Edward Cooper has been on the market for ten years. What is your summary looking back? And what does the future hold?

Hilke Blömeke, owner of Edward Copper: We started with smart casual shirts, which still define our strategy today. We offer contemporary, relaxed shirts for men that follow a sustainable concept.

The shirts are enzyme-washed, eliminating the use of chemicals. We pay close attention to using environmentally friendly components, such as unglued inserts in the collar and mother-of-pearl buttons.

We source and manufacture in Europe to ensure short delivery routes. This has been our policy right from the start, but we did not communicate this message proactively. That is going to change.

How exactly?

Starting with the current season, we are teaming up with Ralf Klüver to strengthen the DACH market. He will present Edward Copper in the Paul’s Selection showroom and the Prisco Haus in Düsseldorf and Munich respectively. We are also ramping up marketing and sales internally to communicate our message both B2B and B2C.

Freedomday

OUTDOOR PROFESSIONALS

What is on the agenda fashion-wise?

A core element is our successful jersey made of mulesing-free merino wool. Because it wears like a pullover, the piece can, after airing it, be worn several times before it needs to be washed. It is also crease-resistant and therefor perfect for travelling. We are expanding the colour palette and adding a sporty slip-on style with a concealed button tape. These are complemented by overshirts made of woven wool, which have more edge than the jersey pieces – as well as Edward Copper Cruise featuring modern, cotton flannel styles that appeal to younger people.

The shirts by Edward Hopper are a revolution of the entire concept shirt.

Freedomday successfully strikes a balance between fashion and functionality.

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handstich.de

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DMI

RESPONSIBLE HEDONISM DMI has produced an online Fashion Day to present the trends that are expected to determine the 2023 season. It lasts several hours and has been available as a stream since December. The forecasts are descriptively illustrated by the experts of the DMI Trendboard, featuring lectures on the zeitgeist and impulses from which the looks are derived: colours, materials, and styles of womenswear and menswear. “Never has our world been as divided as it is now,” says trend analyst Carl Tillessen. “We are torn between responsibility and hedonism. This cognitive dissonance is particularly prevalent when buying fashion, so much so that fashion has no choice but to make it visible and transform it into responsible hedonism.” www.deutschesmodeinstitut.de

What is good for surfers, keeps you warm in winter: RRD focuses on high-tech and performance.

RRD

LASER, ULTRASOUND, AND HEAT “We have been working on and investing in innovative materials for quite some time and have expanded the range of seamless styles for next season. Almost 80 percent of our collections are now manufactured with these seams. These laser-cut, ultra-sonic, and heat-welded seams are ideal for any weather and always retain maximum flexibility, even after years of use. All this is combined with revised classic cuts and styles. Seamless design has a great advantage it shares with a wetsuit: no moisture or cold,” says Roberto Ricci of RRD about the key pieces of the new collection.

The online Fashion Day whets the appetite for the trends of the 2023 summer season.

Photo: VanMoof in cooperation with Pigalle

Renoon

A UNIVERSE OF SUSTAINABLE FASHION Hometownglory

INITIATIVE

The Hometownglory initiative in Mannheim boasts two temporary concept spaces. Selected pieces by young creatives from the Next Mannheim network and Gründerzentrum Textilerei are displayed in a retail environment – on the ground floor of Engelhorn and on a two-storey pop-up space in the Q6Q7 district. “Young brands present the enormous innovative potential of the local fashion and creative community,” says initiator Nico Hoffeld. Sustainable brands such as Klaudia Karamandi and Belle Ikat are complemented by streetwear by The Dizin or Phyne, as well as accessories, perfumes, food, art prints, and interior design pieces. www.next-mannheim.de, www.textilerei.de IG: hometownglory_mannheim

Fresh brands developed by young creatives enliven the retail environment.

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Anyone who wants to be certain that they are shopping sustainably, can do so at the touch of a button without having to conduct extensive research. Thanks to a proprietary algorithm, the app developed by Renoon combines the offers of several online shops and evaluates their sustainability credentials. If no ethically correct or sustainable product is available for the search request, Renoon points to pre-loved items or apparel rentals. Iris Skrami, one of the four founders, conceived the idea for the app while desperately searching for a sustainable “little black dress”. Today, Renoon counts 400 partners, including Pangaia, Stella McCartney, Vestiaire Collective, Luisaviaroma Sustainable, Net-Sustain, and Yooxigen, as well as links to more than one million fashion products. The app also allows users to personalise looks according to their own sustainability criteria, and to gain insights into fashion brands and their product world. Users can create lists of favourite brands and products from various websites, and even curate their own feed. Last but not least, they can exchange ideas about sustainability in the fashion industry within the community. www.renoon.com

Sustainability filter: Renoon pools approximately one million sustainable products.

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AYMS

REFLECTED

North Sails Apparel’s campaign highlights the beauty of nature and the fragility of the planet’s ecosystems.

North Sails Apparel

CREATING AWARENESS Entrepreneurship obligates. To date, more than 4,000 certified B Corporations in 65 countries have committed to social responsibility in their bylaws. Milan-based brand North Sails Apparel has been certified as a B Corp since last summer. “Becoming a B Corp requires allocating equal importance to financial, social, and environmental targets. We are very proud to have received this global certification and hope that our commitment will be an inspiration to other companies, influencing generations to come.

We are all responsible for ensuring that the company focuses on the bottom line as well as on the planet and people,” explains Marisa Selfa, CEO of North Sails Apparel. In addition, the brand is actively involved in supporting environmental activists and ocean preservation projects. The current “Go Beyond” campaign features marine biologist and photographer Cristina Mittermeier, who makes the effects of climate change on the Arctic Ocean visible. www.northsails.com

What makes the new activewear by AYMS so special? It leaves nothing to chance, but is carefully refined down to the smallest detail.

This is evident in the deliberately placed, often functional features such as a reflective signet that remains visible in the dark. This can, by the way, also be understood as a mindset message to reflect on oneself. The signature logo is also engraved on the ends of the drawstrings. Ribbed details, as featured on crewnecks, add structure to the design, as do mock collars on the men’s hoodies and t-shirts. Signet sweatbands and socks complete the collection alongside a clutch and a shopper with practical zips. The label uses Supima cotton and GOTS-certified organic cotton, complemented by specially developed high-tech performance materials. The colour scheme remains natural in shades such as oil green, grey melange, white, and black.

Timeless design and enduring quality are indispensable for the limited collection. Deliberately designed by Martina Schmidl without heeding seasonal rhythms and sale pressure, the collection constitutes a statement for conscious consumption. It is available at specialist retailers as of first delivery in January and February. www.join-ayms.com

Marisa Selfa is the CEO of North Sails Apparel.

Shoes, accessories, and ready-to-wear by Axel Arigato are now available in the Swedish premium brand’s own store in Munich.

Axel Arigato

STORE IN MUNICH This is the fifth store run by the Swedish sneaker brand that is rapidly captivating the whole of Europe. Axel Arigato has opened a 143 square metre store on Brienner Strasse in Munich’s city centre. It is minimalist and modern, reminiscent of an art gallery. In short: The perfect place for premium sneakers and ready-to-wear to gain even more brand relevance via concentrated POS power. www.axelarigato.com

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AYMS represents contemporary, responsible consumption.

kashette.com Adventure Fashion Agency GmbH. Kaiserswerther Straße 214, 40474 Düsseldorf, T 0049 211 431049, A.Stalherm@adventure-gmbh.de

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Mey

SMART FABRICS The Zzzleepwear range by Mey now features a new, breathable Celliant technology to improve the quality of sleep. Body heat is converted into infrared energy, reflected, and then returned to the body. The material blend of 75 percent cotton and 25 percent Celliant viscose ensures excellent climate regulation and a pleasant feeling on the skin. The same applies to the comfortable cuts of the nightwear range, which further support the cosiness factor.

Mey, a family business in the Swabian Alb, has always been committed to the continuous development of its own standards, and to particularly high-quality and durable products. www.mey.com

Play instinct engaged: Journalists and opinion makers experience the virtual showroom of THINK INC. using their own avatar, just like in a computer game.

THINK INC.

VIRTUAL REALITY Holger Petermann’s and Maria Chiara Teza‘s Munich-based communications agency THINK INC. represents numerous brands from the premium segment. As of last April, journalists and opinion makers can visit the showroom virtually, but without having to forego personal service or experiential engagement. The website’s interface is designed in the style typical of a 1990s computer game. Once they have logged on, visitors can design their own avatar and start exploring.

The staff welcomes visitors at the entrance and informs them individually via video chat in split screen mode.

But it doesn’t stop there: visitors can even interact with each other when their avatars happen to bump into each other – just like in real life.

Journalists, stylists, and influencers have access to individual rooms in which they can learn about the latest collections, download images and text material, and place photo sample orders. The infotainment package is complemented by videos of brand representatives informing about the latest highlights, as well as changing DJ live sets that are streamed on the virtual agency’s dance floor. “We continue to work on everything that proves successful. Following the first version of our THINK INC. Virtual Space, which informs, inspires and, above all, unites our target group, we enhanced V2 of the Virtual Space with exciting, new functions, and features that accelerate work processes. And they are fun, too. That is important to us,” explains Petermann. www.thinkinc.de

Everyone talks about work-life balance, but the night is often overlooked: Mey’s Zzzleepwear range launches a promising product innovation.

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Good News Agency

JOURNEYS INTO CREATIVE DIMENSIONS Günter Passek’s Munich-based agency has represented Italian label Niu in Germany for five seasons. The total look collections tell ever new stories of women from all over the world every season.

For more than 20 years, the design team has travelled to countries such as Kenya, India, and Thailand to draw inspiration for prints, cuts, colours, and textures from local people and traditions. A special highlight are the elaborate brocade skirt models and it-pieces made of Kanga fabrics, which are manufactured in Italy with great attention to detail. The collection is not sold through large online retailers, but exclusively through specialised retailers.

Labels: Anokhi, Bomboogie, European Culture, Flona, Niu, Skills & Genes, Viamailbag Good News Agency, Munich/Germany, info@good-news-agency.de, @goodnewsagency

Blauer USA

WINKING AT THE FUTURE Plenty of drive and a highly successful brand economy: Blauer USA is on course for success.

This self-confidence is reflected in the new collection, which quotes US police history while winking at the future. The US brand’s most popular fabrics are now offered in an even wider range of colours. The down jackets still feature Eco, Sorona, and Repreve fillings alongside Thermofix heat seams for maximum protection against rain and wind.

On particularly cold days, Blauer USA recommends down-filled reversible jackets, nappa leather lining, sheepskin, or down-filled nylon.

But Blauer USA is also ready for mild winter days: waistcoats, field jackets, overshirts, or multi-pocket and parka models combined with sweats. Generally speaking, the brand’s complete look has taken yet another step forward. Blauer USA completes its look with knitwear, chinos, shirts, and sweats. www.blauerusa.com

Strong in jackets and evermore relevant total looks: Blauer USA.

Ecoalf

PURISM & PERFORMANCE

In the spirit of adventure: Niu tells stories of journeys around the world.

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The premium line entitled 1.0 not only takes the Spanish eco-label into new spheres in terms of design. The performance features of the jackets, which are made of increasingly breathable, windand water-repellent fabrics, are also reaching new heights. While the design draws inspiration from minimalist urban outerwear and architectural oversized contours, the material properties of the jackets correspond to those from the sports performance sector. The theme of the autumn/winter 2022 season revolves around the North and South Poles, the last untouched and pristine corners of our planet. Waistcoats and zip jackets are made of Ecoalf’s Ocean Yarn, which is sourced from a marine waste upcycling project. Parkas and jackets with a hydrostatic head of 5,000 feature 3-layer, single-origin fabrics made of 100 percent recycled polyester in all three layers, which can later be fully recycled once more. Ecoalf is systematically expanding its circularity potential while remaining true to its commitment to transparency and integrity at all times – for the planet and the people. www.ecoalf.com

Reduced to the essentials: Ecoalf relies on strong colours and ever new material developments.

mou-online.com

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Bomboogie

FASHION AND FUNCTION Bomboogie inspires with a strong brand DNA. The Italian brand not only reinterprets classic army jackets, but also offers a wide range of functional down jackets, anoraks, and parkas.

The outer materials are subject to constant development every season and combine fashion and functional demands in equal measure. “With Bomboogie, we provide an excellent entry-level commercial price range for the premium segment while maintaining the highest level of quality. With prices ranging from 250 to 450 Euros, we cater to the customer who is not willing to pay 1,000 Euros for a jacket. The product quality meets highest standards and can easily compete with well-known luxury or sports brands. The silhou-

ettes are always ultra-modern, yet never too whacky. And the fits are great,” says Denis Augustin of Munich-based Good News Agency, which is responsible for sales in Germany. Highlights for autumn/winter 2022 include classic field jackets and coats with ultra-light down jacket inlays that can be worn as 2-in-1 variants, both in autumn and winter. Customers can choose between models with classic 90:10 real down filling or synthetic Primaloft filling. In addition, a range of short, medium, and long women’s styles are made of extra-soft recycled nylon. www.bomboogie.com

Bomboogie translates army references into a modern urban context.

Supreme Women&Men

FULL HOUSE

More than 800 collections for women and men will be on display at the two locations as part of Supreme Women&Men.

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Supreme in Düsseldorf and Munich is starting into the coming season with a large portion of expertise and optimism under the same conditions as in the summer. “The high demand for space from agencies and brands shows how sought-after our order platforms are. In addition to many familiar faces such as Max Mara, Peserico, Dawid Tomaszewski, Susanne Bommer, JNBY, Simone Bruns, Patricia Pepe, and Hemisphere, as well as agencies like Select Studio, Udo Toepfer, Schumacher & Kubanek, and Diebra Textil, we welcome many new labels such as austriandesign.at, Day Birger Mikkelsen, Mon Margin, and Schella Kann, as well as agencies block2block and Claudia May,” a happy Aline Müller-Schade, Managing Director of The Supreme Group, says, and adds: “Despite constant difficulties and persistent bottlenecks in the supply chains during the pandemic, many retailers have mastered this period admirably. We should be delighted that we will continue to have a retail structure in the DACH region that is unique in Europe. Our retail partners, with whom we are in very close contact, are highly motivated to view and order the collections we host in the coming season.

As a service provider, we hope for a sustained dialogue with suppliers and retailers to ensure continuity in our successful collective efforts.”

Düsseldorf: 28th to 31st of January 2022, Munich: 12th to 15th of February 2022 www.munichfashioncompany.com

Pitti Uomo Florenz 11.01. - 13.01.22 DRAHTHAUS Düsseldorf 10.01. - 25.03.22 Supreme Women Men München 12.02. - 15.02.22

Showroom DRAHTHAUS | Kaiserswerther Straße 137 | D 40474 Düsseldorf fon.: +49 - 211 45 97 60 | www.heubel.info | office@heubel.info

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BOB Company

ARTIST AT WORK

Lemon Jelly footwear is vegan and PETA-certified.

What do artists and the Italian menswear label BOB Company have in common? Respected art and quality fashion require craftsmanship and passion. These values are, in fact, at the centre of the upcoming campaigns to be implemented by the brand based near Florence. The plan is to provide artists of all genres with the collections and allow the two worlds to converge.

One of the first testimonials is Martin Foot, a sculptor from Liverpool who now lives in Pietrasanta. “We have no desire to hire celebrities as testimonials. We want real people with real stories, who share BOB Company’s values such as creativity, craftsmanship, spontaneity, and, of course, a love of Tuscany,” says founder Tommasi Bellini. For the autumn/winter 2022/23 season, the brand presents looks inspired by workwear: lumberjack-style overshirts and military-look trousers in colours like ochre, green, and tobacco. The knitwear remains versatile as well: crocheted, knitted, and colourful – and many patterns. It goes without saying that all pieces are “Made in Italy”. www.bobcompany.it

Lemon Jelly

VEGAN FASHION BOOTS Lemon Jelly’s distinctive rubber Chelsea boots for women and children are an all-time favourite. The Portuguese brand is now stepping it up a notch by introducing new high fashion models. For autumn/winter 2022, it presents numerous variations with voluminous, ultra-light EVA soles – some featuring extra rough treads. For example, a high chunky bootie with stretch insert on the outside and inside zip, or a high Chelsea boot model with an extra thick sole and elaborate neoprene inlay. Four new models feature synthetic linings.

And as always, Lemon Jelly does not neglect the fun factor. A collaboration with in-house medical footwear specialist Wock has resulted in antistatic, antibacterial slippers with a cuddly lining and attachable little bears at a price of 79 Euros. Just like the label’s basics, the fashion line, which retails at prices between 110 and 179 Euros, is manufactured in the company’s own factory in Portugal. The facility is powered exclusively by renewable energy. Many components are made of recycled materials. Customers who already stock the Lemon Jelly fashion line include Breuninger, Fashionette, and Kastner & Öhler.

Roshan Paul and his Munich-based agency Rosh Studio are responsible for sales in Germany and Austria. www.lemonjelly.com

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BOB Company tells its story through real people like Martin Foot, an artist who lives in Tuscany.

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Wunderfell

DIVERSIFIED

Based on what is probably the oldest outdoor fabric in the world: Lodenwear is an iconic product series by Steiner 1888 that offers an urban interpretation of extremely light and waterproof loden fabric.

For the 2022/2023 autumn-winter season, Wunderfell introduces cosy boho styles made of long, cuddly Tigrado fur, sporty biker jackets and hoodies, and classically timeless merino coats and jackets.

“The demand of younger target groups is increasing,” says designer Dirk Nienaber. “We have expanded our range accordingly.” Particularly innovative: a butter-soft Lacon Agneau and Iceland skins tanned in Spain. “The tannery leverages innovative tanning, dyeing, and finishing processes to render its quality standards environmentally sustainable. The manufacturing process ensures that water, chemical, and energy consumption is drastically reduced. Water is 100 percent filtered. Manufacturing takes place exclusively in Europe.” www.wunderfell.com Luxury as sustainable as possible: jackets and coats by Wunderfell retail at prices between 1,200 and 2,500 Euros.

Lodenwear

“OUR ROOTS ARE INCREDIBLY MODERN” Johannes, Lodenwear is a modern onepiece concept that takes loden fabric to a whole new level.

Johannes Steiner, owner of Steiner 1888: Lodenwear is a modern, urban product that we deliberately detached from our Steiner 1888 collection. This product will have its own sales unit. Instead of presenting a whole collection, we have decided to focus on individual icon pieces meant to endure the test of time.

Christian, can you explain the magic of Lodenwear?

Christian Weber, Head of Design at Lodenwear: We have succeeded in developing a wafer-thin, ultra-light loden fabric. It is based on Steiner’s so-called Greifenberg loden, a typical umbrella loden with a streak that allows water to roll off. Our first product, a raincoat, can be folded to fit into an A4 envelope. Its modern unisex silhouette makes it perfect for urban use. It is light, crease-resistant, and wind- and waterproof – all this based on natural wool. A small nylon admixture, however, ensures that the fabric can be processed open-edged, which saves weight and volume.

Where are the pieces manufactured?

Christian Weber: The fabric is manufactured in Steiner’s factory in Styria and processed in a family business in northern Italy. All details are of extremely high quality. www.lodenwear.com

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Sebastian Klinder is delighted by the support from within the industry.

Close up: Munich Fabric Start and Bluezone welcome more than 1.100 collections to Munich.

Munich Fabric Start

FULLY BOOKED Visitors of the upcoming Munich Fabric Start at MOC and Bluezone in the adjacent Zenith Halle can look forward to a safe and thoroughly inspirational trade show with fully booked halls at pre-pandemic level.

Sebastian Klinder, Managing Director of Munich Fabric Start: “We are stunned! More than 600 suppliers from 33 countries have signed up for Munich Fabric Start, including more than 90 international denim suppliers

for Bluezone. This impressive progress and the enormous support from the industry is a milestone in this exceptional situation, and anything but self-evident. At present, we are planning a 2G+ system (vaccinated or recovered; plus negative test) with regard to hygiene and safety measures.” Throughout the three-day event, a comprehensive event programme featuring lectures and panel talks by industry experts will offer visitors insights into the latest trends and topics relating to sustainable alternatives, digital solutions, and forward-looking innovations.

Munich Fabric Start: 25th to 27th of January 2022, Bluezone: 25th to 26th of January 2022, www.munichfabricstart.com

ROSHAN@ROSH.STUDIO WhatsApp +49 151 54753686 www.rosh.studio PREMIUM FAIR - 18.01 - 20.01 - HALLE 3.1 - STANDNR. 3.1 H05 SUPREME MÜNCHEN - 12.02 - 15.02 - HALLE 5 - STANDNR. A510 SHOES DÜSSELDORF - 06.03 - 08.03 - KALTSTAHLHALLE - STANDNR. B03

RIGHT NOW

Neonyt

“WHAT WILL SUSTAINABILITY SIGNIFY IN THE FUTURE?” Bettina Bär, you are taking on the task of evolving a trade show that is a first mover in the field of sustainability. What is your vision?

Bettina Bär, Show Director of Neonyt and value: Yes, we were – and remain – first movers, a claim that we also intend to live up to in Frankfurt. Neonyt and Fashionsustain are highly successful formats. People have missed the physical events and we are delighted that we now have a first chance to meet in person again. Our vision for Neonyt is to think one step ahead at all times. What is our narrative when what this trade fair aims to promote and encourage becomes reality? In other words: What happens when sustainability has become standard in this industry? This is a fascinating discourse, and I am sure that we, together with the Neonyt community, will find some excellent answers.

Let us talk about community. Will Neonyt manage to enhance its profile? Will it attract international buyers who have an interest in this segment to Frankfurt?

That is definitely our ambition, and the Messe Frankfurt team is highly experienced in this field. With a strong network, international subsidiaries, and sales partner offices, we not only spread our fashion spirit to Germany’s neighbouring countries, but to all corners of the world. In view of the pandemic situation, we will by no means be able to demonstrate our full potential at the January edition, because international travel still remains somewhat complicated. We are, however, convinced that Frankfurt Fashion Week will be on the agenda of all European top buyers in the summer.

Experiencing content and brands - tell us more about this winning combination…

From the 18th to 20th of January, Fashionsustain offers a varied programme that highlights brands like Ecoalf, Deuter, and Pinqpong alongside NGOs and organisations such as Fairwear Foundation, Grüner Knopf, and the UN Global Compact Network Germany. At Neonyt, which has been devised as a 2G+ event (vaccinated or recovered; plus negative test), visitors can view brands such as Dawn, Dedicated, Deuter, Flamingos’ Life, Givn, Got Bag, Kuyichi, Mela, Mud Jeans, SKFK, and many more internationally relevant labels from the sustainable clothing and accessories sector.

Neonyt, 18th to 20th of January 2022, Frankfurt/Main, www.neonyt.com

Bettina Bär manages the Neonyt trade fair in her capacity as show director.

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Family-oriented structures, transparency throughout, absolute sustainability: Woolish.

Deha

MOVE IT Who could offer better leisure and activewear than a true specialist? Ballet brand Deha, which has long since moved beyond dressing ballerinas, is part of the Treviso-based Meeting Group. Highlights include recycled and compostable materials, a rarity in the athleisure segment. www.deha.com

Woolish

SECRET SUSTAINABILITY CHAMPION Knitwear from Estonia? Yes! The region boasts a rich heritage and a new generation of internationally oriented brands like Woolish is stepping up to combine that with modern sustainability values. Woolish debuts on the German market this season with the backing of Haven Agency. www.woolish.ee

Not a start-up, but a brand with solid roots: Deha inspires with fashionable activewear.

Shoebizz

REALIGNMENT The Pfyffer family’s sales agency Shoebizz has always specialised in shoe collections from Italy. One of the most important projects of the last seasons is the repositioning of D.A.T.E, an Italian sneaker label. D.A.T.E is an acronym of the four founders Damiano, Alessandro, Tommaso, and Emiliano. In 2005, they founded their brand in Florence with the idea of launching a trainer that was sporty and cool, yet also featured high quality materials and typical Italian design. “Our journey with D.A.T.E. started shortly before the pandemic and was initially fraught with great uncertainty.

But we used the opportunities presented during that time and worked hard on realigning the brand. We succeeded in securing some fantastic new accounts including Sigrun Woehr, Burresi, and Marandino. This proves that D.A.T.E has evolved into a refined and sophisticated product,” says Paco Pfyffer.

Labels: D.A.T.E, Ernesto Dolani, Vic Matié Shoebizz, Hünenberg/Switzerland, info@shoebizz.ch, www.shoebizz.ch

D.A.T.E, a sneaker brand from Florence, has embarked on a promising journey with Shoebizz.

RIGHT NOW

Nubikk

URBAN OUTDOOR Dutch brand Nubikk, founded in 2012, combines fashion and comfort with distinctive design, inspired by the conviction that one should not forego either. Customers now enjoy the option of reordering best-selling highlights.

“Two of the most significant innovations are a B2B online gateway for single orders and a 72-hour delivery service of bestsellers from a warehouse located in Holland. Brand new for the coming season are water-repellent and breathable urban outdoor boots with Vibram soles that combine trekking

and trail running features with fashion silhouettes,” explains Roshan Paul of Agentur Rosh Studio in Munich, who is the brand’s sales representative in the DACH region. Fashion sneakers like the lightweight model Ross Trek Edge, the high tone-in-tone women’s leather lace-up boots Fae Aubine, the white men’s nubuck boots Jonah Dune, and the classic Logan Harbor boots with chunky yet lightweight high-grip soles were the bestsellers of last season.

Additional sales support is provided by a Berlin-based influencer marketing agency.

Retail prices for the autumn/ winter season range from 189 to 249 Euros. Current customers include Kastner & Öhler, Bailly Diehl, Garhammer, Lochner Top Fashion, Palm Heilbronn, Ingla Petera, and Mia Shoes. www.nubikk.com

Nubikk’s comfortable crossover styles combine fashion and functionality.

Josh V

ALL-ROUND LIFESTYLE How does the topic of the Premium trade show, “Reform the Future”, align with your philosophy at Josh V? Josh Veldhuizen, founder and CEO of Josh V: Currently, we are paving the path to a more sustainable future. We do so by making conscious decisions on all levels. It is our mission to further develop our three focus fabrics to be fully sustainable by 2026. Therefore, we have launched our Conscious Selection, a collection of clothing items for which we use more sustainable materials, such as organic cotton, recycled polyester, and ecoveroTM. We are also working hard on optimising processes and making products more sustainable in all other areas, for example by reducing packaging and using more sustainable packaging materials.

Furthermore, we believe it is important that our products are manufactured in a fair and safe working environment. That is why we are affiliated with BSCI. Can you describe the overall mood of the autumn/winter 2022 collection?

Josh V is for all women who desire to look and feel stylish whatever the occasion may be – a day at the office, a dinner with friends or family, or a special evening occasion. The style of Josh V collections is characterised by the use of high-quality materials and in-house de-

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signed, luxurious prints and branded buttons.

The brand and its collections are known for their flattering yet comfortable fit, and its characteristic use of colours in neutral tones and tonal looks. Josh V delivers exclusive luxury and quality at a commercial price. For autumn/ winter 2022/23, our designers drew inspiration from the 1970s and 1980s. At Josh V, this translates into super-sophisticated yet striking styles including big shoulder pads, snake boots, pied-de-poule prints, and sleeveless blazers. This season will be all about hitting the street again and expressing your feminity through your looks.

As an entrepreneur, you focus on a data-­ driven strategy. What is the impact of this data?

Data is incredibly useful. We are completely data-driven; the entire company works on the basis of figures and analyses thereof. We know upfront what will sell very well and why. We excel at predictive planning, and all our marketing and social media efforts are part of a big matrix that connects and analyses data. We adapt our strategy to this. This is also why we can offer the highest service level to retailers. We are not based on sentiments; we are based on facts.

“I strongly believe in inspiring, helping and strengthening other women”, says Josh Veldhuizen, founder and CEO of Dutch brand Josh V.

THE LONGVIEW

Elizabeth Spaulding

“We Are the Intersection of Technology and Humans” A swap of positions at the top. In the US, Elizabeth Spaulding’s name has long been associated with the fusion of technology, innovation, and classic market mechanisms, and since summer 2021, with the gigantic leap forward in the development of US online provider Stitch Fix, whose management she took over from founder Katrina Lake – in the midst of the pandemic, no less. The top priority on the agenda of the congenial top manager is to further enhance the company’s major USP, the Perfect Fix, by harnessing AI technologies and optimised data management. This Fix refers to five products in a box, sent by Stitch Fix to its customers, and it contains the secret of success, namely the combination of data-­ optimised base information paired with the personal advice provided by a stylist.

A distinguishing feature in the market that deserves to be further developed.

Interview: Stephan Huber. Text: Isabel Faiss. Photos: Stitch Fix

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THE LONGVIEW

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Y

ou took over as the new CEO of Stitch Fix in August 2021, at the dawn of a new age. How did that feel?

Elizabeth Spaulding: It was really exciting. Ever since the beginning of the COVID pandemic, we started to acknowledge what a massive shift is happening in the industry.

My vision was to show how Stitch Fix can play its role in the future of retail, especially given its really unique focus on personalisation, human touch, and algorithms. For the last year and a half, trying on clothes in the comfort of your own home has never been more popular. What has been so exciting is embracing leadership for this exciting vision that we have in front of us. Everything has changed in terms of consumer behaviour. We have seen it with our active clients and with new consumers, and now we are broadening the platform that we have. My vision is to become the global destination for personalised shopping, styling, and inspiration.

Almost two years of a pandemic-induced state of emergency have not only put our society and its resilience to the test, but have also redefined consumer habits, accelerated innovations, and finally made clear that the future is all about data. Good for you and Stitch Fix? In a way definitely. It is part of my job to realise that a lot of things follow a nonlinear path. Part of why I joined the company was a very deliberate decision with Katrina Lake to really chart the future of the business. My background is in innovation, working at the intersection of consumer technology and traditional consumer arenas such as retail and restaurants – businesses that have a real touch and feel. Beloved brands, that value this background, are like the nexus of where Stitch Fix really sits. What I observed during that experience is that pure tech platforms are trying to move from content into commerce, but probably without the human touch, the personality, and the relationship. So, the pattern I recognised based on having worked with all those kinds of businesses is that Stitch Fix is in this unique position to really bring the power of relationships and human touch together with its core DNA of data science and machine learning. My starting point was to ask: well, what could the next 10 years look like? And that actually flipped a switch of sorts. I kicked off these six or seven territories for the future of Stitch Fix that we have begun working on.

The massive shift of commerce to online platforms must have been a real boost for Stitch Fix… First of all, as for every business, it was incredibly hard, because we were managing through a crisis.

When people are going through turbulent times, their brains are the most adaptive, eager to look forward and ask how to get through whatever is happening.

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We started with questions like: how do we re-innovate our amazing experience? How do we expand and innovate into new territories? How do we disrupt even the economic model of inventory? What are all the options to reach many more consumers, both in the US and globally, to really become a global destination? What we saw by June was that the category US Apparel had been inching up one or two points a year and shifting to online, 25 percent plus compared to pre-COVID times. The market reached this new water mark that now constitutes a permanent shift and will continue with 40 percent of commerce happening online. This really allowed us to go on the offensive in terms of envisioning our future. We have access to trend data on what consumers want. And we saw this tenfold increase and casual “un-comfort” with traditional online shopping. So, we immediately pivoted our inventory and incubated things like Fix Preview, which is now our standard experience, both in the UK and the US, where you can preview your fix and select 10 items to view before choosing. It is like Netflix shifting from the DVD era to the streaming era. We had five items of clothing that we sent out in a box, which is still a very compelling model. And now we have your entire personal wardrobe to shop from in your online store and our freestyle model, the latter currently only in the US. All of that was very much ushered in by this new period that I think COVID accelerated for us and has allowed us to evolve even faster than we may have initially.

Stitch Fix was one of the first to recognise personalisation as a key value. Today, significantly expanded technological options enable a completely different level. What will the customer journey look like in the near future?

What we embarked on in the US earlier this year is the ability for customers to open the door of their own personalised store - a new service called Freestyle.

The customer gives us information on their style preferences and choices, and we then essentially personalise their own store, showcasing trending outfits based on what they have told us about their style.

We also gather data through our in-app game, “Style Shuffle” - a “thumb up, thumb down” rating system of items that you swipe upon sight. A million customers play that monthly. We have generated over 9 billion ratings via “Style Shuffle” – and counting. This rich behind-the-scenes tool is honing our understanding of customer needs. Like social network graphs,

We are bringing a curated discovery based on product preferences to life, demonstrating how to use items and how to wear them as outfits.

THE LONGVIEW

we have a style graph that helps us extract feature and style preferences from consumers. But what it means for consumers when it comes to shopping with us, is that they can experience walking through their own personalised store of products. They can also walk into their own branded stores based on labels they prefer. So, it is really bringing a curated discovery based on your product preferences to life, demonstrating how to use items and how to wear them as outfits.

At any moment, clients can also engage with a Fix, enjoy the human touch and the surprise and delight element of receiving a box of fix items, hand-selected by their stylist. In the future, there will be even more real-time interaction with our stylists who have been at the heart of our business for over a decade. Those are things that we are thinking about in the coming years. That really makes it a destination that you can engage with, hopefully multiple times a day – for either inspiration or shopping.

Experience and surprise are essential to fashion and shopping. Can an AI-driven system surprise customers even though it is based on algorithms?

We like to say: let humans do what humans do best.

And let us look at the algorithms the machines do best. We are always testing the boundaries of that.

The cockpit-style tool that our stylists use is always pushing the frontier of how we can make their job as highly leveraged as possible. Our behind-the-scenes tools are leveraging all the information that we have on a certain client, but also extracting parallels from our broader client base. It harnesses the power of 4 million-plus clients on behalf of just one client to help generate an understanding of what items will work for them. In terms of shopping experience, we are always experimenting with things like new arrivals that are displayed in a merchant’s tab. We actually just launched curated shops where influencers pick pieces they love from our catalogue in October. It is entirely human based. But when you open those items, our machines immediately generate outfits that would go well with that item based on what we know from features that go with those looks. Pushing the boundaries of consumers is the risk of machine learning. If machine learning is done well, it gravitates towards optimisation. We must work hard to provide that surprise, that delight, or find creative ways to achieve that and build our models. But this is where stylists (and humans) will always be part of the equation.

Since day one, that is what Stitch Fix does best, and I think it sets us apart from other tech-only companies and is going to help us bring that intersection to life.

We use the richness of client data to build better products.

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We have an inherent understanding of the likely success rate of an item before we even send it.

So the human touch will remain crucial in the future?

We have incubated and executed different experiments like live video calls with our stylists to find out what is the best interaction we could scale. We are learning from that right now. It is a highly mature customer journey question. Maybe once or twice a year, that would be an amazing experience, because you could feel that sense of really articulating what you are looking for. It would gather a lot of different data that we would not necessarily know yet, and you have a chance to interact with a person with whom you can really reflect on all those comments and maybe even ask some advice. I mean, imagine the future: our stylists might do even more in that direction, or have a content feed suggesting ways to find certain looks. Live video is not in our media product roadmap, but you could imagine that just becoming a richer part of the experience. This a form of guided advice, in addition to pushing the boundaries of fashion. Those are things that are not going to be replaced by algorithms in the foreseeable future, but they will greatly contribute to the relationship nature of our business.

That means that Stitch Fix is taking the very old value of personalised retail into the digital area.

That is how I like to think about it. That feeling of human connection, advice, and a type of validation, but coupled with discovery. For me it remains crucial how we take those special moments and bring them to life for every consumer at the click of a finger.

And how can we do that in a way that is incredibly relevant, incredibly personal? The service and advice, I think that is where the big difference lies. If you think about e-commerce, it is highly search and filter based.

It is not personal, involves no discovery or relationship. We have basically identified these characteristics that we think are the most crucial for the future of shopping – and that is the blueprint that we are using for the future.

Most e-commerce platforms are desperately searching for ways to add human touch. Because that is missing when you are tech-only…

Yeah, absolutely. A huge indicator of the relationship and personal nature of Stitch Fix is reflected in how much information our clients proactively share with us. For 85 percent of the items we ship, we get multiple points of feedback. When you get your Fix, you try it on at home, and every item generates five points

SUSTAINABLE PREMIUM KNITWEAR SINCE 1973 A/W 2022-23 WWW.PHILPETTER.COM

THE LONGVIEW

of feedback. The fact that people engage so deeply with “Style Shuffle”, the fact that a huge percentage write notes to their stylist, which provides us with trending information, is a sign of tremendous trust.

But it is also an incredible data asset for us to understand, and thus to build better products and provide better experiences. We have an inherent understanding of the likely success rate of an item before we even send it. For example, our stylists send a few things that have a 15 percent likelihood of success, and then a few items that are 80 percent likely to be appreciated. Maybe that wildcard item with 15 percent is going to be a massive hit, maybe not. But it shows that we are willing to push our own boundaries, too.

There is an ever more intense discussion about whether or how our consumer behaviour can still be justified in view of the challenges of climate protection. On the other hand, consumption is the foundation of innovation and development. Is a balance between these two positions possible? Can the conundrum be solved by tech?

I think what is amazing about our model is that it is great for consumers. And it has the potential to be disruptive in our field for all of those topics. We use the richness of client data to build better products. At the source, let us produce products people are actually going to want and the right amount of those goods.

We produce a lot of our own brands, and they outperform on every score rating. That is because we are using data to determine exactly what we produce in terms of fit, fabric, and quality. We also use a tool called “design the line” to test items on consumers before we produce, meaning we have great confidence in what we manufacture. We actually share a lot of data with all of our vendors already, but imagine a world where vendors produce far less, based on what consumers want.

We have a goal for all of our exclusive brands to be as sustainably sourced as possible by 2025. Actually, we have our own cut and sewing facility in Pennsylvania.

Just the other week, we launched a line in which all the pieces are sustainably manufactured and sourced. So, I think there is so much about our model that is win-win for client and consumer, not to mention the positive impact we can have on the climate.

Parallel to personalisation, we are currently experiencing how gamification – and the gaming tech behind it – is gaining enormous influence. Are there completely new, super strong, and influential players emerging in the fashion business?

That is a great question. If you think about Fortnite or Roblox, there’s this sense of creator community that feels like a very exciting environment. We are definitely seeing more opportunities to create more engaging ways to gather our customers’ point of view, feedback and preferences and gamification is one way that we do this. At Stitch Fix, our “Style Shuffle” feature does this for us. In the future, this gamification could extend to having consumers help co-create brands or give live feedback on products. Ultimately, people want to be part of a broader conversation and I think it’s going to be fascinating to see how the fashion industry creates more opportunities for this.

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The business model may be based on cutting-edge technology and smart data management, but style competence is and remains the sweet spot at Stitch Fix – and in its high-profile image campaigns (see above). Personal advice and service are the essential elements that Elizabeth Spaulding, in her capacity as the new CEO, intends to reinforce even further.

FASHION

“WE PICTURE THE FUTURE OF TROUSERS!” Women develop a fresh appetite for dressing up after times of hardship. What does Raffaello Rossi have in store?

Brigitte Schellenberger, founder and Head of Product Management at Raffaello Rossi: We primarily focus on excellent, new materials that the customer desires to wear and show off. This includes glossy finishes such as coated leather surfaces and vegan leather with a shiny effect. Likewise, decoration is making a comeback of sorts, with the colour gold playing an important role. Our key piece in the collection is a pair of widelegged, straight trousers made of a wonderfully flowing lurex jersey.

In the silhouettes, too, there are very wide, flowing , straight trousers alongside the body-hugging skinny style. The range is vast.

At the same time, the desire for cosiness has endured.

Yes, the customer still wishes to dress cosily and comfortably.

This is why we offer super soft cuddly flannels that are light and delightfully stretchy. The colour palette is natural and sophisticated, featuring wool white and light grey tones. The fabric appearance resembles a knitted look, and the silhouettes are also wide and long, or slightly shortened. The credo is to feel ultra-comfortable and dressed up at the same time.

What else is indispensable from a fashion point of view?

I would suggest our retro transformation topic, inspired by the 1970s. It pictures the future of trousers with corduroy and jersey jacquards in graphic designs, be it bootcut or flared in style. The colours are expressive: warm orange, green, and purple. Our denims complete the collection, whereby the new silhouettes are yet another highlight. Alongside a skinny cut version, the range includes wide flared and o-shaped denim. We are really enjoying creating such variety right now!

RAFFAELLO ROSSI

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Raffaello Rossi manages to strike a rare balance between ultra-comfort and being dressed up.

FASHION

“This style is impossible to copy. Barb’one plays in the Champions League of premium sportswear in terms of sustainability, ‘Made in Italy’ quality assurance, and design ambition.” Valentino de Luca, Barb’one

Realising the full potential of the niche: Barb’one stands for iconic Upper Casual looks with a unique character.

Vintage at its best: Washed denims and authentic military looks in original fabrics are at the heart of the new collection.

• All products are GOTS certified and sourced locally. Sustainability is an integral aspect of Barb’one’s philosophy.

• Production takes place at a prominent facility: Brands such as Louis Vuitton, Balenciaga, YSL, and Loewe also rely on the know-how of the Moretti family of Urbania.

NEXT LEVEL! It started with a contrasting stripe along the trouser leg – absolutely authentic, completely relaxed, just like that. Barb'one has evolved from a trouser specialist to a brand that unleashes all its potential in the niche. The iconic design element of the stripe is paired with the casual easiness and irresistible nonchalance of an Italian sportswear look consisting of trousers, jackets, and waistcoats for men and women. Production takes place exclusively in Italy, with outstanding partners such as the family-owned company Moretti in Urbania. “This obviously commands a price,” says Valentino de Luca, who, in the case of Barb'one, deliberately resists the yoke of price pressure, trends, and seasonal change to design timeless pieces beyond the mainstream. Currently, his focus is on jackets made of old military jacket fabrics, lined with padded nylon quilted linings. They are complemented by coarsely washed and patched denims in casual cuts.

BARB'ONE

The new autumn/ winter 2022 collection is presented in the showrooms of the Prins-Juric agency. style in progress

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“WE STRIVE TO CREATE EVERYONE’S FAVOURITE JEANS” The Nim’s womenswear outperformed menswear last season. How did that come about?

Claudio Parolini, owner of The Nim Standard: Both collections were super strong, but the womenswear was perhaps a little more on point. We succeeded in implementing customer feedback from previous seasons, so we also successfully combined different styles in authentic washes: an American denim look made in Italy!

However, retailers in the womenswear segment were also more courageous.

They demanded new styles, beautiful pieces for their customers. Our love of experimentation was rewarded.

How is this reflected in the new autumn/winter season?

We are building on that success with innovative new styles and fabrics.

Denim remains the focus, because we are – and always will be – jeans specialists. We have set ourselves the goal of improving upon our self-defined standards. And we strive to create everyone’s favourite jeans.

This might be a bootcut, flared, or balloon style, for autumn/winter in mid-blue and dark blue. The jeans are complemented by shirt jackets in denim and corduroy. Generally speaking, the shacket was a summer bestseller.

Corduroy is a super addition to the collection, which is a reason why we can present exciting looks at the POS. We definitely intend to keep working on our overall statement.

What do you like in particular about the creative process? What drives you?

I especially love developing small capsules in collaboration with our partners. That may be a producer with whom I develop exciting fabrics and styles that are as eco-friendly as possible, but it could also be a cooperation with a retailer. What defines The Nim Standard, to a certain extent at least, are these partnerships with great people who enjoy the brand as much as we do.

THE NIM STANDARD

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FASHION

“We continue to pursue the path of sustainability.”

Canadian Classics ensures that the winter is anything but grey. The models of the upcoming collection are colourful, young, and feature all kinds of innovative shapes and styles.

“The design team has taken it to the next level and created pieces that are truly unique.

Take the woven models. The “Intrecciati” include long and short waistcoats, as well as jackets and coats, made of hand-woven down tubes, which are innovative in their look and come across as very cool,” says Simone Ponziani, CEO of Artcrafts International, the Florence-based jacket brand’s parent company.

The Eugenie series has been expanded: it now features cropped and puffy designs in the style of the 1990s, but also egg-shape jackets. As always, the models come in many different colours and patterns, such as an eccentric animal print, and are partly made of recycled materials.

“We continue to pursue the path of sustainability and are very proud that we can offer an increasing number of pieces made from regenerated fabrics and fillings. In fact, many of our models are now also available in vegan leather,” Ponziani explains. The “Nuvolati” (derived from “nuvola”, the Italian word for cloud) remain eye-catchers: A very light jacket style in different styles and “cloudy” colours.

CANADIAN CLASSICS

THE INTRECCIATI MODELS MADE OF HAND-WOVEN DOWN TUBES ARE REAL EYE-CATCHERS.

Ex value cellent fo is wh r money a Cana t sets d Clas ian sics.

NEW SHAPES, NEW NUANCES

• Innovative shapes and styles • Eugenie line now includes cropped, puffy, and eggshaped designs • Increasing use of recycled materials

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“THE FUTURE DRAWS FROM ITS ROOTS” An Italian family business that impresses with innovation and service: Tombolini relies on modern, functional ready-to-wear fashion that pays tribute to its roots.

TOMBOLINI

Silvio, what distinguishes Tombolini from other men’s brands?

Silvio Calvigioni Tombolini, Managing Director Marketing & Sales at Tombolini: My grandfather always said: “The future draws from its roots.”

Our commitment to “Made in Italy” is unwavering, which means our manufacturing structure ensures values such as tailoring, technology, innovation, and sustainability. Our family is both traditional and creative, and we bring a wealth of experience in men’s collections to the table. The combination of these elements is capable of convincing even the most discerning customer.

Because dressing is not a simple task, it is art.

Tell us more about the Zero Gravity and Running collections…

By utilising new and ultra-modern machinery and processing techniques, we manufacture garments that weigh a mere 300 grams. That is Zero Gravity: 110

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a luxurious collection at astonishingly competitive prices, yet also available as “Su Misura”. The TMB Running collection, on the other hand, creates a hybrid between sport and ready-to-wear. It features a suit made of stretch material that you could actually go for a run in.

This even inspires the players of AS Roma, who wear this suit in blue at all official functions.

The highlights of the next collection in a word rap…

We are Pitti-Uomo returnees, presenting Tombolini and Zero Gravity.

Our highlight is the Zero Impact line: a suit made of innovative fabrics that can be washed in a washing machine. Also, a 100 percent biodegradable jacket, sustainable in all its components right down to the hangers and labels. And not to forget the suit made of RYC, recycled and re-recyclable materials.

What are your expectations for the DACH market?

We want to consolidate our position in all our markets, and the DACH area plays an important role in this.

It has developed into our strongest European market in no more than three seasons. The collaboration with Elvis Giglione Fashion Agency is a resounding success; our very structured service including an NOS system for some products has received excellent feedback from customers.

FASHION

ICONIC BOOTS Wild nature meets luxurious craftsmanship: Mou, the ethnically inspired collection from London, is evolving consistently for the autumn/winter 2022 season. The foundation always remains focused on warming potential and wearability, complemented by imaginative and expressive designs that reflect pleasure in extroverted styling and make the brand distinctive.

The styles are even more diverse, featuring chunky clogs with or without straps, cosy slippers made of curly sheepskin, and rugged snow boots in two heights to complement Mou’s classics.

The core colour palette of this season’s high-quality sheepskin pieces not only includes soft natural tones, pastels, black, and white, but also rich and vibrant colours such as electric yellow, royal blue, and orange. Special highlights are metallic shades of silver and bronze, as well as a burnt red and a strong green.

Leather elements reminiscent of kilim carpets or cuddly teddy materials provide further special effects. Every detail is worth a closer look, for instance new stitching in rainbow colours or in contrasting wool as variations of Mou’s signature crochet seam.

Founded in 2002 by Shelley Tichborne, the brand is deservedly revered worldwide for its uniqueness: Each design reflects dedication to craftsmanship, a love of nature, sustainable sourcing, and an infectious enthusiasm for fashion.

MOU

WILD NATURE MEETS ECLECTIC URBAN STYLE: MOU STYLISHLY COMBINES THE SEEMINGLY INCOMPATIBLE.

ous onym y, n y s is lit Mou h origina , and p i h wit s ural sman craft rious nat luxu aterials. m

• Fashionable, comfortable, and warm: Fashion enthusiasts create their outfits using footwear

by Mou as foundation.

• The distinctive feature of the trendy boots is a hand-sewn crochet seam.

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• Expansion: The range of sweats and shirts now includes a long-sleeved shirt to wear as an inner layer.

• Naturally functional: all materials are of natural origin and fulfil different functions; high-tech is possible without synthetic fibres.

and mere Cash fabrics f no meri e heart o th . n m o r i t fo ollec the c

Knitwear has so much creativity to offer: Chevron pearl patterns, ottoman waves, patent knits, or urban cable knits show what Tom Ripley is capable of in terms of craftsmanship.

AL ITALOAMERICANO

Stylish class, athletic elegance, and full focus on core competencies: Tom Ripley’s 31-piece collection sums up the brand’s proposition in a nutshell. Manufactured in resource-efficient Italian factories, sustainability is an important aspect. All styles dispense with synthetic fibres. Knitwear forms the core of the collection: the silhouettes are form-fitting yet comfortable. Cardigans flaunt sophistication, knitted jackets show elegance. Mock turtlenecks, a long-sleeved knitted polo with button-down collar, and knit hoodies reflect Tom Ripley’s retro charm. The tried and tested 100 percent merino and cashmere qualities are complemented by another natural functional fibre: silk. A stylish V-neck jumper in a very fine gauge impresses with its temperature- and moisture-balancing properties. Trend alert: Tom Ripley turns fluffy bouclé into crew-neck jumpers.

In knitwear, the brand brings its full expertise to bear: tonal chevron bead patterns, ottoman waves, multicoloured three-dimensional knitting techniques, and the newly discovered classic patent knit. Merino vintage and diamond jacquard, as well as a small warp-knit programme, round off the collection.

TOM RIPLEY

“We refuse to manufacture just anywhere; we rely on medium-sized Italian family businesses. These close partnerships not only ensure excellent quality, but also social responsibility standards, as well as fair treatment and payment of employees.” – Wolfgang Müller, owner of Tom Ripley 112

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FASHION

FASHION CASHMERE The woman who Notshy caters to is liberated, assertive, and modern, defined by strong character and natural elegance. Its success proves the brand right.

Notshy features in 31 export markets and at 2,000 retail partners worldwide, including illustrious names such as Galeries Lafayette, Printemps, and Tsoum. Offering four collections a year and additional capsules, creative duo Natacha Basic and Mercedeh Vafai create a brand that forges a close bond with its customers. Staged in the style of a magazine, including a blog and styling masterclasses, Notshy celebrates an attitude: “We aim to inspire women with elegance and comfort.”

A centrepiece is the it-poncho Faustine, available in 30 exclusive colours and variations each season.

The autumn/winter 2022/23 collection celebrates a liberated, bold woman who fully embraces being able to dress chic again. Retro references meet casual elements, contrasts, and a healthy dose of fun. Implemented in extremely soft qualities, fine separates, and artful details, the pieces positively encourage layering.

NOTSHY

Creative duo Mercedeh Vafai and Natacha Basic.

A responsible brand that obtains its cashmere from 100 percent sustainable and transparent sources: Notshy.

The F ponc austine repre ho pullo ver sent prod s Notshy uct ic ’s on.

• Founded in 1998 by knitwear enthusiasts Olivier Criq and Jean-Pascal Candau • 100 percent sustainable and traceable; committed to an eco-responsible charter • Muses such as Pernille Teisbaeck, Malgosia Bela, and Ines de la Fressange represent the brand’s spirit style in progress

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“CONQUERING THE GLOBAL ACCESSORIES SCENE”

Vic Matié has ranked among Italy’s most renowned shoe manufacturers since the late 1980s. Today, stepping up internationalisation efforts is a priority on the agenda. An interview with Creative Director Silvia Curzi.

VIC MATIÉ

Vic Matié demonstrates its claim to fashion leadership with very distinct designs.

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Silvia Curzi, Creative Director at Vic Matié.

What is the prevailing mood of the upcoming collection?

Silvia Curzi, Creative Director at Vic Matié: Vic Matié always cultivates two main moods: a very feminine tone featuring powerful design, and a younger, distinctly urban mood. The latter involves models in which we experiment with rubber soles or similar materials. The Gear line consists of flatform soles with notches that, as the name suggests, are reminiscent of gears: a super lightweight shoe that combines the comfort of sneakers with a markedly more urban look. This series also includes models with heels. It is the first time that a rubber-soled, heeled shoe has been designed to be this light and flexible. We are particularly proud of our Waders: rain boots featuring a wrap-around rubber shell, stretch neoprene uppers, padded nylon, and leather with rubber coating. And then we have the Knight line: classical cavalier boots on voluminous rubber soles in a mix-and-match of aesthetic form and technological modernity. In addition to this collection made from rubber, we are, of course, equally proud of our more feminine and sophisticated designs. Designs with unusual heels like the Duplex: a model that looks like it has a single heel, but the heel is actually split in two, leaving a light gap between the two parts. Then there are Plateau styles that once again feature duckbills and cylindrical heels completely covered in leather. Additionally, we have brought forward the winter collection to December and launched a series of active models: Vic Matié Made2Move.

In 2022, Vic Matié unveils its global shop. What does this big step signify for the brand?

Our global shop symbolises three things. Firstly, it is a global hub where we collaborate with our Italian and European distribution partners to enable the end consumer to buy the entire collection through the official Vic Matié website and then pick up the items directly from their trusted local store. Secondly, it represents a clear commitment to support retailers instead of creating online competition between our partners and the brand’s own e-commerce platform. Thirdly, the global shop promotes sustainability. The shop at vicmatie.com pinpoints the location of the customer, allowing the nearest shop to make the delivery. This enables retailers to maintain their respective catchment areas while we all avoid unnecessary shipping emissions.

What are your expectations for the international markets?

We expect from the international markets what we are already witnessing in Italy, in most European countries, as well as in some countries of the former Soviet Union: For Vic Matié to find its place in the best boutiques, department stores, and marketplaces in the lower luxury segment and to conquer the global accessories scene.

FASHION

IT-PIECE:

The raglan coat in multicolour-checks.

SARTORIAL STREET(WEAR) “Formal Wear on the Edge” has been Manuel Ritz’s success formula right from the start.

However, the delicate balance between tailoring and streetwear, fine-tuned by Leo Colacicco, reaches a new climax in the current season. The foundation for this look is laid by the selected fabrics, whose differentiated textures alone create an exciting suspense.

A confident interplay of shapes, structures, and volumes builds on this foundation.

Checks, overchecks, and pinstripes escape conventional formalisms and lend single- or double-breasted jackets, overshirts, and hoodie jackets a thoroughly self-evident modernity. Many pieces are oversized, for example one of the absolute collection highlights, a long raglan coat in an earthy patchwork look or multicolour. Speaking of colours: here, too, the consistent influence of the street is evident. Colour is an element, but never an end in itself. This also applies to the trousers, which implement a new width and relaxedness without slipping into sloppiness. Very cool!

The sophisticated functionality of the “Tech-Core” line enters its second season featuring puffer jackets, trench coats, and bomber parkas, as well as a very special nylon stretch material. www.manuelritz.com

MANUEL RITZ.

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EVERYDAY FAVOURITES Seamless Basics.

Purposeful: so-called purpose brands are the secret darlings of buyers.

Brands that convey a clear message, solve a problem, or are simply too beautiful to ignore.

Seamless Basics has set out to conquer the German-speaking market with high-quality leggings, shirts, tops, and briefs in understated colours and classic, timeless cuts. The Danish brand has engaged the MODEist sales agency to build a fan base for its NOS principle of season-independent underwear in Germany. The brand processes merino wool, recycled silk, mulberry silk, and cotton. The sustainability idea is extended all the way to the packaging. The premise is to work with few seams and provide full comfort.

Seamless Basics, Copenhagen/Denmark, hello@seamlessbasics.com, www.seamlessbasics.com

SIGNA­ TURE POINTS Von&Zu.

PEARLS OF FLORENCE Maman et Sophie.

Elisabetta Carletti was a successful lawyer until 2008. The birth of her daughter Elena Sofia unleashed her creativity and imagination. Without further ado, she turned her life upside down to focus on what she really loves: jewellery. She initially sold her pieces to friends, but retailers started knocking on her door soon after. In 2012, her husband Federico Lastrucci joined the business. Today, the brand has over 20 employees and more than 250 points of sale throughout Italy. What makes Maman et Sophie so special is that all pieces are handcrafted in Florence by trained orafi, goldsmiths educated at renowned Florentine schools. The brand is still looking for a partner for the DACH region.

Maman et Sophie, Florence/Italy, www.mamanetsophie.it

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Special prints, as if drawn or water coloured, constitute the signature of womenswear by Von&Zu from Gemünden. “The prints are urban and fashionable, but always retain a trace of longing and nostalgia,” says chief designer Magdalena Cromme, who runs the label founded in 2014 with her sister Eva-Maria Czerny as part of an 80-year-old family business. Meanwhile, Von&Zu has developed into a complete collection in sizes 34 to 46, featuring cropped jackets, feminine dresses, oversized knits, and even fluffy checked shirts. The shapes remain clear and simple, the colours fresh and natural. At a mark-up of 2.7, the purchase prices for dresses range from 85 to 150 Euros. The label manufactures in Europe.

Czerny Manufaktur GmbH, Gemünden/Germany, czerny@von-zu.de, www.von-zu.de

www.barboneitaly.com

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FOR THE LOVE OF BERLIN Be Edgy Berlin.

The label represents rebellious, timeless contemporary wear centered around the leather jacket. “Our passion for unusual contrasts and designs is reflected in our pursuit of the perfect cut,” says founder Robin Juchems. “Constant experimentation renders every piece unique.” The mix of materials is style-defining. Vegan tanned leather is, for example, combined with denim or nylon. Leather down puffer jackets, trench coats, and faux shearling jackets, as well as jerseys and accessories, complete the Pakistan-produced collection listed by Breuninger, Engelhorn, and Greta & Luis. At a mark-up of 2.7, retail prices for leather jackets range from 110 to 260 Euros.

Be Edgy Berlin, Berlin/Germany, robin@be-edgy.com, www.be-edgy.com

ASIA MEETS ITALY LuceLove.

NATURALLY SUSTAIN­ ABLE Aemium.

French unisex premium perfume Aemium is crafted exclusively from natural ingredients.

Only four different components are used to create a range of seven fragrances. Founder Emmanuel Roche says: “We have developed a high-quality fragrance that is free of synthetic substances and whose packaging is easy to recycle. This is how I define true luxury. We eschew shiny packaging and focus on the quality of the ingredients.” A 100 ml bottle costs 137 Euros, a refill 97 Euros. A socalled Discovery Box is available for 27 Euros. The mark-up is 2.4.

The list of retail partners already includes Selfridges, The Wearness, Cardamomo Milano, and Jovoy Paris.

Aemium, Paris/France, eroche@aemium.com, www.aemium.com

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Francesco Gozzini, founder and owner of Tuscan fashion brand LuceLove, travels a lot to Asia on business and has long been keen to launch a label offering Chinese qipao dresses for girls and women. His dresses represent the perfect blend of simple and elegant Chinese cuts and Western fabrics and patterns. The pieces are exclusively handcrafted in Italy, and Gozzini sources the fabrics from stock. “The warehouses are full of wonderful materials, especially following the pandemic. By using them for my Qipaos, I prevent them from ending up in the landfill.” The result is a crossover product manufactured in Italy, reflecting a fair fashion philosophy that perfectly balances zeitgeist and customer taste. LuceLove is still looking for sales partners outside Italy.

LuceLove, Montecatini Terme/ Italy, www.lucelove.com

soldout_de

Vertrieb DACH: Agentur MODEist · modeist@vahoferer.de · www.modeist.com | D-Nord-West: Agentur Gresch · agentur@norbertgresch.de

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VIBRANT COLOURS Blush Indigo.

NEXT LEVEL

Maurizio Miri. The razor-sharp suits pay

homage to the full range of traditional Italian tailoring. The creativity in design – recognisable in cut, pick stitches, opencut edges, and a long thread on the lapel buttonhole – lends the garments their distinctive coolness and modern rock star attitude. Maurizio Miri, seventh of seven brothers, has been dedicated to taking men’s and women’s tailoring to the next level since 2009. His exclusive collectors’ pieces are listed at stores such as Different Sylt, Black Ravenna, Gente Rom, and Bernardelli Mantova.

Retail prices for men and women range from 600 to 1,200 Euros and 320 to 530 Euros respectively. The mark-up spans from 2.7 to 3.0.

Maurizio Miri, Maison Mea SRL, Brescia/Italy, info@mauriziomiri.com, www.mauriziomiri.com

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In 2018, Katarina Ziesecke discovered the colourful bracelets in Bali and brought them back to Europe.

She started her own company called Blush Indigo, a reference to her favourite colours, just a few months later. “Colour is the foundation of everything,” says Katarina.

She designs a collection and then sends it, together with pendants and clasps that are manufactured in Germany and Italy, to two production partners in Bali, who then allocate the orders. The knotting takes place at home, by hand.

Katarina is keen to expand her material portfolio and offer more pieces for silver wearers.

She is also eager to spend more time in Bali to support local marine conservation projects.

Purchase prices of the pieces run between 2,50 and 4 Euros, with a markup of 3.6.

Blush Indigo Jewellery Berlin, katarina@blush-indigo.com, www.blush-indigo.com

MULTITASKING À LA ITALIANA Thea Montegrappa.

Who or what is Thea Montegrappa? A label? A blog? An influencer? An artisan? “A touch of everything,” is how Chiara Gentili, the creative mind behind the brand, would answer. She gathered plenty of expertise as a designer and product developer for one of the most important Italian fashion brands of the last 20 years. After suffering a burnout, she reconsidered her options. Her own business should be grounded and small, not merely glitz and glamour. Thea Montegrappa started with jewellery, self-knitted jumpers, and crocheted accessories. Chiara soon realised that her talent harbours even more potential. Hence, she offers her knowledge to retailers in the form of upcycling and recycling programmes.

Today, she markets her unique pieces and advises shops on the topics of fair fashion and upcycling. She also helps to redesign surplus items to re-present to the consumer in an innovative manner.

Thea Montegrappa, Massa e Cozzile/Italy, www.theamontegrappa.com

Trachten Order Tage 25.-27. Februar 2022

HOT

1

Tracht & Mode Order Start 25.-26. Jänner 2022

Ordertermine

1. Halbjahr 2022

18. - 20.01.2022

109. ÖSFA

25. - 26.01.2022

HOT 1 - Tracht & Mode Order Start

06. - 08.02.2022

Fashion Premiere

06. - 08.02.2022

Dessous & Bademoden Salon

15. - 17.02.2022

Schuh Austria

25. - 27.02.2022

Trachten Order Tage

Veranstalter Brandboxx Salzburg GmbH | Moosfeldstraße 1 | A-5101 Bergheim | salzburg@brandboxx.at | +43(0)662/4687-0 | brandboxx.at

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REVERSIBLE

AliciaAudrey. It all began with

a friendship between the two fashion-savvy Belgians Audrey Joris and Alicia Meus. Their brand concept impresses by combining a strong, clear design signature with playful elements. Created as a mono-product collection, AliciaAudrey is primarily committed to coats. Lapel collars, blazer cuts, and oversized trench silhouettes characterise the range.

The special detail is that all coats are made of double-faced fabric, meaning they can be worn inside out – from elegantly discreet to boldly patterned. A blazer, a gilet, and a long, coat-like waistcoat complete the picture.

AliciaAudrey, Brussels/Belgium, info@aliciaaudreycollection.com, www.aliciaaudreycollection.com

KNITWEAR IN PERFECTION Matéma.

Round neck, V-neck, turtleneck? Fiddlesticks! Italian brand Matéma proves that knitwear can be infused with plenty of modernity. Matéma designs a total look in cross-gender, cutting-edge collections. The brand, which was the ultimate new discovery for many when it made its debut at Pitti Uomo in June 2021, is backed by renowned Italian knitwear specialist Gente di Mare. Heritage Showroom secured the coveted sales partner slot in Germany, and renowned agents across the rest of Europe pounced on the brand. 40 years of knitwear expertise coupled with a modern understanding of look, size, and fit, as well as the promise of pieces that are natural, sustainable, and machine washable – that is the definition of a precision landing.

Matéma, Falconara M./Italy, daniela@fly3.it, www.matema.eco

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GOOD KARMA Studio N.

A lockdown project with a mission: friends Ninja Heidmann and Katrin Goldberg-Tekinarslan founded the Studio N label in Berlin in 2021.

Their objective: to create feelgood pieces that convey the message of tolerance, self-love, and good karma to the world.

Genderless jumpers, joggers, hoodies, and oversized shirts with wide ribbed cuffs form the backbone of the collection, and every piece is manufactured under the premise of sustainability and waste reduction. The styles are produced in Europe from organic cotton and recycled polyester, and then imprinted in Germany. Sizes range from XS to XL; retail prices start at 30 Euros.

Studio N, Berlin/Germany, contact@studio-n.shop, www.studio-n.shop

Agentur Mirja Gümbel. Haus 4, Raum 416/417, Taunusstraße 45, 80807 München, T +49 (0) 89 359 88 22, baerstecher@hguembel.de Room Nine Agency. Kaiserswerther Straße 137 / Drahthaus, 40474 Düsseldorf, T +49 (0)211 / 22 98 79 78, M +49 (0) 172 246 98 06, torsten.mueller@roomnineagency.de

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RICE FOR PLASTIC

Pssbl. Bags designed by Pssbl balance durability,

PATENT­ ED Sturlini.

GENDER­ LESS T-Coat.

A renowned production facility in Italy, a look that inspires with international vision: Timothy and Marion Hoferer have discovered a real gem for their sales agency in outerwear brand T-Coat.

The brand, launched in 2019, initially only offered overshirts, but has since evolved remarkably in terms of style. “The brand quickly gained its first fans in our sales territories in Germany and Austria, not least to great purchase prices ranging from 109 to 189 Euros and new qualities. Now we are looking forward to the winter season, when T-Coat can demonstrate its full potential,” says Marion Hoferer.

In short: a concise, small collection that is fun to represent.

T-Coat, Verona/Italy, info@telarosa.com, www.t-coat.it

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Dreamy soft summer shoes are one thing, but Italian shoe manufacturer Sturlini succeeds in creating the same flexibility in its winter collections.

Based near Florence, Sturlini has developed the so-called Versilia patent. This patent allows for a particularly light and flexible shoe that remains durable and complements formal outfits. Given the return of ready-to-wear, this footwear comes at the perfect time. After all, people wearing “easy suits” want to slip into correspondingly casual and comfortable shoes.

Both the women’s and the men’s collection by Sturlini have already gained notable fans in the retail sector beyond Italy’s borders – for example Galeries Lafayette or Breuninger. Starting in January, Agentur Klauser was appointed for sales in Germany.

Sturlini, Monsummano Terme/Italy, info@navayos.com, www.sturlini.com

quality, socially responsible production conditions, and environmental protection. The fabrics are made entirely of recycled material and production in Vietnam is undertaken exclusively by certified specialists. Every Pssbl product sold supports the brand’s environmental and social projects in Cambodia, one of the poorest countries and heavily affected by plastic pollution. The “Rice for Plastic” initiative, for example, exchanges collected plastic waste for the corresponding amount of rice. Seven models including messenger bags, tote bags, shoulder bags, backpacks, and fanny packs are available. The customer list features the likes of VooStore, Glore, Zebraclub, HHV, and Afrew.

Pssbl GmbH, Berlin/Germany, talk@pssbl.life, www.pssbl.life

25.– 26.01.2022 25.– 27.02.2022 ORDERTAGE SALZBURG GUSSWERK

GW ND & THE CITY

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Petra Kogler, petra.kogler@gusswerk.net, T +43 662 230898, M +43 664 88621144 Gusswerk Salzburg, Söllheimerstraße 16, 5020 Salzburg

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WHAT'S THE STORY

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Does fashion actually have to be real? Not at all.

Fashion regains its playful element in the Metaverse. Be it as a skin in gaming or as an NFT, it adopts a completely new role. The fact that some still find this development somewhat surreal does not disturb this new reality one bit. If you’re in, you’re in.

N E THE W GA E

WHAT'S THE STORY

THE ROCK & ROLL OF GEN F(ORTNITE) A thinkpiece by Stephan Huber

S

woosh! And suddenly the topic was omnipresent beyond the special interest bubble. Gaming and fashion form the bright new star in the emerging meta(uni)verse. Fortnite teams up with Balenciaga and Moncler, following an earlier lead by Animal Crossing and Marni – Gucci was, of course, involved too. It goes without saying that LinkedIn is exploding. All this offers great entertainment and hype value, but it is only the lush and dazzling surface of our attention economy. It should not distract us from the fact that it is of paramount importance to engage deeply and openly with gaming, e-sports, and, more broadly, gamification. The direct and indirect influence on consumer behaviour, communication, and ultimately economic success simply cannot be overestimated. The good news (and as all readers of style in progress know, the good news is the kind that moves us forward): nobody is excluded, everyone can participate in a manner that suits them or their companies best. We invite you to read, see, and feel how multi-faceted, and thus rich in opportunities, this environment is in this edition. But first, a thought that I consider essential in terms of context: more than 80 percent of Gen Z play online regularly. In the following Gen Alpha – defined by a technologically completely different, interactive, and increasingly personalised hybrid environment – it will most likely be almost 100 percent.

I can vividly hear the horrified groans of many readers. O tempora, o mores! The youth of today! That is, among other factors, precisely the point.

Gaming is the rock & roll of Gen F(ortnite). Finally, there is something that parents do not understand and/or really hate. Their own codes, own language, and – coming in hot – own style. “How can you sit and play this nonsense all the time?” is the new “How can you listen to this horrible music all the time?” of today. Gaming is spearheading pop culture.

As a result, it is evolving from a niche with great economic importance to an industry with outstanding economic significance. You need an emblematic example? “The International 2021”, a Dota 2 tournament held in Bucharest, paid out almost 40 million Euros in prize money. That is roughly as much as Wimbledon, the world’s most famous tennis tournament, offers.

Is it all about money again? No, well yes. But that is the wrong question to ask. The important question to ask is how to reach the consumers of tomorrow. This question is as old as the market economy itself, so VERY old. The answer, however, has to be found anew again, and again, and again…

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WHAT'S THE STORY

T h e N e w G a m e

EPIC GAMES

“DIGITAL SPACES ARE NOT ABOUT SELLING PRODUCTS, THEY ARE ABOUT SHARING YOUR BRAND”

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T h e N e w G a m e

Sallyann Houghton is witnessing the collaboration of gaming platforms with the fashion industry live and close-up. In her role as liaison for entertainment, media, and fashion at Epic Games, she watched the topic reach mega hype levels during the pandemic.

Epic Games set new standards when it launched Fortnite. And the consumer goods industry has finally recognised the game’s enormous potential. Epic Games’ main asset is technology expertise from which many industries will benefit by presenting products to Gen Z as a phygital experience.

Interview: Stephan Huber.

Text: Isabel Faiss. Photos: Epic Games

T

o jump right in , and for the understanding of my readers: How would you explain the world of Epic Games in a few words?

The term “games” is in the company name, but fundamentally Epic Games has two sides. One is the games side, a nd the other is the non-games side – but the boundaries are blurred now. Unreal Engine is the software that powers almost everything that we do at Epic Games. With Fortnite, we have become more well-known both in – and outside the traditional gaming community. On the non-games side, we use this game engine technology across a number of industries. We continue to invest in Unreal Engine tools and content libraries to help creators in architecture, media, entertainment, automotive, marketing, and simulation. We are constantly showcasing great examples of how creators in these industries are using real-time technology, helping people understand how game engine technology can be used out in the virtual ecosystem, and how they can get started.

During the pandemic, the fashion industry was forced to bring their digital offers to a new stage of tech and market readiness simultaneously.

What did this change?

The fashion industry is now adopting new technologies like never before. In the last 24 months, the industry has changed more than it has in the last 100 years. This is a real moment of discovery.

And I believe that the main reason that

WHAT'S THE STORY

the fashion industry has and will continue to gravitate towards this technology is because the tools are now ready for them, with high-quality aesthetics.

You said that fashion has discovered gaming, but is that not also true the other way around?

Fashion is just an expression of your identity and creativity. Gamers have been doing that without the help of the fashion industry for a long time. Customising characters and acquiring skins in games has been a popular form of expression for many years. It has been a really powerful way for gamers to create an identity and express themselves within their communities. The fashion industry is a very important part of the wider landscape of expression that we are all very much attuned to. Games and fashion can now come together because platforms are developing into much broader landscapes that harbour a huge number of people. The perception of gamers has evolved from being teenage boys in bedrooms. Everyone is a gamer today. The average age lies between 33 and 38 years across the board, and there are billions of them out there.

I recently saw a denim jacket with two brands on it: Fortnite and Balenciaga. Fortnite was significantly more prominent. Can you see that as an analogy to the current and, above all, future power of gaming in the fashion business?

Historically, games have been very unfamiliar territory for fashion. They could not see the strategic value of them. But I think all of that has changed now. The world of games is not just for playing anymore; it is also for enjoying social experiences with friends. The fashion industry can now see the value of virtual platforms, and these platforms are coming of age. The deeper understanding of data will enable the fashion industry to know much more about their product before they even start producing it.

The one thing fashion was lacking completely over the last decades was a purpose. The focus was on numbers and efficiency. But ultimately, fun should be just as important. Will this liaison with gaming platforms bring back a certain element of fun for fashion shoppers?

Let’s be honest, most of us actually do not like shopping. We enjoy finding and purchasing. Shopping is only the preamble to the treasures that you find at the end of the process. In my opinion, that is how you lose consumers in retail. If you remove all the barriers like tightness, travel, coldness, and laziness and offer shopping as an experience in this fun-enhancing immersive space where you can freely try on different outfits and choose different ways of self-expression, then it becomes much more exciting. In the real world, we are a little more controlled. We are more strategic about what we buy. In digital worlds and ultimately the Metaverse, there are infinite choices. At any given moment, you can change your style and accentuate any element of your personality. Digital fashion will become fast fashion.

And there are no boundaries of diversity, you can leave every cliché behind. style in progress

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“The fashion industry is changing more now than it has since the invention of the sewing machine.”

Sallyann Houghton, Epic Games­

“In the Metaverse, you do not sell products, you sell experiences.” That is one of the reasons why Sallyann Houghton demands a deeper understanding of the power of collaborations between the consumer goods industry and gaming platforms. Pictured: The Fortnite x Balenciaga collaboration.

The Metaverse allows for true personal expression. You can be anything or anyone at any time. It allows you to play with physics. We talk a lot about how the existing fashion industry can leverage the digital domain, but one of the most exciting things of this space is that we can now revolutionise the landscape and have a new stream of fashion labels that have never existed in the real world. They can throw away physics and all the rules of materials, shapes, and sizes.

The Metaverse really is a game changer for fashion. But even virtual fashion is still fashion. It is still a product meant to surprise and excite people. At the end of the day, virtual fashion is merely fashion on a different channel. It has more options, more freedom, but there are still some rules that apply, such as people have to actually like your world.

I generally think that Gen Z is not concerned about this movement towards a digital world. For them, it has always been there.

It is the technology that needs to catch up with their acceptance.

For them, the Metaverse is a no-brainer, and as a result they will be the most incredible builders within the Metaverse. Because of how they embrace the digital world – it is inevitable, in my opinion.

They thus turn their attention to supporting communities and creating products or experiences people want to engage with. It is about transferring those very human behaviour patterns to a virtual space. We are all on a journey towards the Metaverse, this virtual persistent space that we all can enter and exit as we like. But it does not have to be a fully virtual environment. As much as there are immersive digital worlds, there will also be areas where the Metaverse and the real world seamlessly overlap, spaces where you benefit from all the value the Metaverse offers: its creativity, the connection, the access to information, and more. At the moment, the internet resembles many different information hubs that do not speak to each other, at least not yet. The journey to the Metaverse will bring with it many benefits to the real world and will bring a balance and interoperability that we simply do not yet have today across our screens. In short, the Metaverse is a concept built on the bridging of barriers. In the future, the next generation of the internet will be a platform for people to come together in unimaginable numbers, featuring robust economies, entertainment options, and true interoperability.

In my opinion, the open-source philosophy is the most interesting aspect of gaming. Sharing economy is another buzzword of the fashion industry. So, is the Metaverse the perfect platform to combine strengths and improve?

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form gameplay and cross-progression. It was a very important step forward in gaming to allow all players – wherever they are, no matter how they are playing (whatever console or platform) – to connect in Fortnite. Now we need to continue working with partners to embrace solutions to overcome some of the remaining barriers. In a perfect world, the Metaverse must be an endless array of experiences, an endless array of interactions. Therefore, no single company will build the Metaverse. It needs to be built by a massive diverse cross-section of creators.

That is why creative mode in Fortnite is so important; it is an autonomous, creator-driven space. We share accessible tools for players and creators to build their own experiences. The goal is to develop and release tools that allow the community to build, exchange, and enjoy bespoke experiences. Those are the types of open and collaborative conditions that will enable the Metaverse to emerge organically.

This philosophy could pose a huge challenge for the fashion industry.

At the moment, the fashion industry values the power of collaboration. In the last 18 months, we have seen so many fashion collaborations, more than ever. People are coming together in new constellations. If you would have suggested two years ago that we would see the types of collaborations we have witnessed recently, everyone would have said you are crazy. In Fortnite, for the first time ever, we had DC characters and Marvel characters playing together. These two IPs have never been seen together before. This interactive, evolving space allows for IPs to come together and move around like on a high street. Suddenly, IPs feel much more comfortable, and they see the power of rubbing shoulders and giving their community a fresh look at them as a brand. Digital spaces are not about selling products anymore, they are about sharing your brand through experiences. The Balenciaga cooperation was very much about sharing the attitude, the personality, and the aesthetic. This whole idea was an embodiment of the brand. In virtual spaces, the brand experience is more important than individual products. In the Metaverse, a plain white t-shirt has no purpose, because you never feel cold.

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ANDRÉ JOHNSON, MYTHICAL GAMES

“THIS IS THE FIRST TIME THAT NFTS HAVE UTILITY” Brands like Gucci have experimented with their own games, Balenciaga just launched a collection on Fortnite, and now Burberry has taken the next step forward.

For Mythical Games’ “Blankos Block Party”, the fashion label created a limited-edition character called Sharky B – and that character is an NFT. Could fashion find a whole new source of revenue here? We talked to André Johnson, VP of Business Development at Mythical Games, to find out. Interview: Petrina Engelke.

Photos: Mythical Games/André Johnson

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Mythical Games VP of Business Development André Johnson, son of basketball legend Earvin “Magic” Johnson, has been working in the gaming industry for seven years, and in entertainment and sports before that. Looking at the way he treats his sneaker collection, you can tell his heart is in fashion, too.

lankos Block Party” looks like a world modelled on the vinyl toy industry. How does that work as a game?

“Blankos Block Party” is a vibrant world of vinyl toys come to life. When you first log in, you arrive in a social place called the Junction where you can chat with other players. So it is that place where players can meet and socialise before they enter a game. You can also look at the store, and you can go off on many missions, quests, and games. To me, it is exciting to be able to bring fashion, sports, entertainment, and intellectual property (IP) all together to push culture forward through a game. It is for players and collectors who come in and purchase designs they really love.

In-game sales already constitute a big chunk of revenue for the gaming industry, which is estimated to make 180 billion US Dollars worldwide in 2021. What is your special angle on sales in a digital space?

Our special angle is that each character, each accessory within the game is an NFT. That means after the purchase, the players actually own them. You can also play with those characters and accessories within the game. So it is the first time that NFTs have utility. Collectors can choose to either hold on to those assets or sell them in the secondary market via our Mythical Marketplace. When that happens, the designers, brands, or artists behind these items, the IP holders, receive revenue from those secondary market transactions. They are actually receiving

revenue from their creations in perpetuity, and that opportunity does not yet exist right now. On eBay, Stock X, or Goat, designers do not receive any revenue from secondary market sales.

How has this promise of getting a share from resales worked out for Burberry?

We were excited to see how fast the value of these assets goes up. Burberry’s Sharky B character sold out in less than 30 seconds. And within minutes, those same 300 US Dollar characters were trading in our secondary market for upwards of 1,500 US Dollars.

Who set the original price of 300 US Dollars, and what is in it for Burberry or other fashion brands?

We collaborate on the sales price. In Burberry’s case, we gave recommendations based on the brand representing high-end fashion and selling items for a higher price point. We also looked at our player base and what they are accustomed to paying for premium level accessories and characters. Burberry and any other brand that we collaborate with will receive revenue on the primary sale. And then they receive revenue on every sale and transaction thereafter.

The design of the Sharky B character and its accessories are based on Burberry’s summer collection. But they do not offer a jetpack, as far as I know. Who came up with that?

If there is a Burberry jetpack out there somewhere, I am sure it is sold out already. These designs are a collaboration. Their team and our internal art department came up with the designs based on the new monogram design that Burberry was using for their summer collection. We took that and put it on the character and on a jetpack, translated it into swimming armbands and shark shoes.

Your job actually is not designing, it is finding the perfect brand for a collaboration. So how did that work? Did Burberry approach you, or did you specifically seek out luxury fashion?

In Burberry’s case, they approached us. But to your point, as the VP of Business Development, my job is to go out there and seek what kind of brand, or what kind of IP, would be a good fit within the game. And our next fashion collaboration will be with The Marathon Clothing, which was founded by the late Nipsey Hussle. style in progress

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Burberry placed 750 Sharky B characters in “Blankos Block Party”. They cost 300 US Dollars and sold out in 30 seconds, according to Mythical Games.

Since the character is an NFT, Burberry receives a share of any resale.

“We target brands that are thinking culture forward, that are excited about technology, that are excited about the NFT space.”

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What makes a fashion brand a good fit for “Blankos Block Party”?

We try to target brands that are thinking culture forward, that are excited about technology, that are excited about the NFT space. For example, when they opened The Marathon Clothing store five years ago, Nipsey was already a forward thinker.

He was involved in cryptocurrency and educating people on investing in the crypto space. But he also started the first smart store I can think of that was incorporating augmented reality technology.

With their app, you can go into the Marathon Clothing store and scan a hang tag, and you will get additional content or music videos that will play on your phone or on a screen within the store. We look for such brands, who are already tech forward, moving culture forward. Maybe they have a strategy, maybe they do not – and maybe that is something we can help them with.

But we try to pinpoint what brands are out there that fit that intersection of sports, entertainment, music, and fashion and push things forward that way.

Talking about the customer experience in a store points to something that I think fashion and games have in common: the thrill of the hunt.

You want your trophy; you are competing with other people or against the clock. Then again, “Blankos Block Party” does not look very competitive to me. So what about the hunt component?

On the outside, looking in, it might not seem competitive. But within the levels, some games are a race against time. How many good vibes can you collect in the timeframe? It is kind of family-friendly, comic-book-style competitive. And players right now are all about customising their characters to match their personalities, and then showing off their collections. You could have Sharky B put on some Deadmou5 shoes. And even a lot of us here in the company did not manage to secure Sharky B. I was one of those unlucky people. I logged in early, but it went so fast.

Wait a minute, does being fast not run in your family? After all, your father is basketball legend Earvin “Magic” Johnson.

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(laughs) You know, in sports: yes. But buying online? I do not know if it translates.

Do you think what people like to play indicates anything about how we will go about marketing in the future?

I think it gives brands an opportunity to tease designs, collaborations, or their thoughts in the future. If they want to see how the audience would respond, we can put it in “Blankos” and allow people to purchase it, comment on it, and also see what the value is from a market standpoint.

I want to come back to something that you mentioned earlier: collectors. Take sneakers, for example. They come in a box, and there are some collectors who never unpack them. They do not want to get a speck of dust on them, because they know it might affect their value. Is there something similar going on with the NFTs in your game?

First, let me say that I am a sneaker head, too. So I understand that thought process. I am just on the other side of the coin. Buy the shoes to wear them – but otherwise, do put them back in the box. That is what I do every time after I wear them. And I keep those sneakers clean. I am the official clean-everybody’s-sneakers person in the family. So: collectors’ behaviour and NTFs. I think this is the first time collectors have a reason to purchase more than one character in a game. We have seen people come in and buy four or six of the same “Blankos”. And in some cases, players will use only one of those and keep the other ones on their shelf to see how they are trading in the marketplace. Also, if you decide that it is not worth your time to play anymore, you can still make good on your investment from those NFTs that you have acquired in the game by selling them in the secondary market.

Is that new or is that something that has been going on in gaming before?

It is something that has been going on, but we did the leg work on the front end to make it legal for trading to happen on the blockchain. Previously, this has been done in grey markets, which is not legal. And so we said: We like to collect, we like to play games, but nobody wants to go to prison for it.

In the art world, we have seen that NFTs raise many similar questions, also about storage or access in perpetuity. Is that uncertainty part of the game, so to speak?

If people are new to the blockchain space: yes. But because all our NFTs are minted on the chain, you see the serial number, how it is minted, all the information is there on the ledger. There really is no uncertainty of you owning the asset. It has been great to make artists and brands feel more comfortable that no one is fraudulently reselling things that are not the real Sharky B or Deadmou5 character.

Do you plan to make connections to the real world further down the line, for instance with apparel from the game being offered as clothes for humans?

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Yes, we are definitely exploring the opportunity to merge the physical and the digital world, if you will.

And hopefully in the new year, we will be able to test some of these experiments.

Meanwhile, catwalks and window shopping almost seem like a relic of the past. What do you think will drive demand in the future? How will people know what is hot?

I think it will be through innovation and a continued push-and-pull from a digital and a physical perspective. Brands doing things from a digital perspective to get in front of the gaming audience, and the gaming audience gaining more exposure to those brands and their plans. I think that brands will continue to push the envelope and offer limited-edition digital items, as well as limited-edition physical items. And then maybe do a physical run of the digital characters or digital apparel that you put in a game. I can definitely see “Blankos” characters expanding onto apparel, or even an animated TV series based on the characters.

What can the fashion industry learn from the entertainment industry, where you spent a good part of your career?

From a fashion standpoint, going with the wave of innovation through NFTs and gaming only enhances people’s affinity for those brands. So I think we will continue to innovate together, similar to how entertainment has embraced all the new streaming platforms. Netflix, Hulu, Peacock, Amazon Prime Video – people really embrace that. And we are hoping that the fashion industry looks at what we are doing as another outlet for creators.

“From a fashion standpoint, going with the wave of innovation through NFTs and gaming only enhances people’s affinity for those brands.”

“I think this is the first time collectors have a reason to purchase more than one character in a game.”

Agentur Prins-Juric GmbH Europarc Dreilinden, Gebäude A2 Heinrich-Hertz-Straße 1c 14532 Kleinmachnow François Büche Modeagentur AG Industriestrasse 44 8152 Glattbrugg francois.bueche@fb-m.ch www.fb-m.ch

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ALPHA TAURI X TELEKOM FASHION FUSION

TRIPLE JUMP FINAL

“Expect the unexpected is the motto.

Customers are positively surprised by the functionality of a product when they do not expect it in the first place,” says Ahmet Mercan, CEO of AlphaTauri, describing the potential he sees in the fusion of technology, functionality, and lifestyle.

An unusual trio with a shared vision: AlphaTauri, Deutsche Telekom, and Schoeller Textiles jointly launched the first drop of their Heatable Capsule Collection in January 2020. Antje Hundhausen, founder of Telekom Fashion Fusion within Deutsche Telekom, and Ahmet Mercan, CEO of AlphaTauri, share exciting visions regarding the future of intelligent wearables, the role of gamification, and a rapid technological leap.

Interview: Stephan Huber. Text: Isabel Faiss.

Photos: Telekom Fashion Fusion

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hat was the spark that brought AlphaTauri, Deutsche Telekom, and Schoeller Textiles to the same table?

Ahmet Mercan, CEO Alpha Tauri: What connects us is a curiosity about the future and a desire to develop something new together. We are entering a completely new playing field. The end consumer has not yet developed a great awareness of smart tech in fashion. We are now developing the topic together, with innovation and information.

Antje Hundhausen, VP Brand Experience Deutsche Telekom: We have been exploring the world of wearables, gadgets, and accessories for 20 years.

When we joined this collective, it was important for us to team up with partners who work just as hard as we do to understand topics holistically. Schoeller Textiles and AlphaTauri are such partners. For us, it was not just about functionality and expertise, but about fashion level and trend affinity. AlphaTauri is synonymous with experimentation and pioneering spirit, coupled with a focused market orientation. I think that guarantees a very strong partnership.

This first drop was the kick-off for a broader vision. What are the next steps in terms of product and strategy?

Ahmet Mercan: We always face the challenge of combining functionality with style. This issue has accompanied AlphaTauri since the beginning. We are pioneers in translating technological innovations into fashion. From the very beginning, we were

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“Excellent coverage and a fast network are the primary needs of a target group that wants to equip their avatars to provide them with a unique identity,” says Antje Hundhausen, VP Brand Experience at Deutsche Telekom, naming the challenge she foresees for her company and the fashion industry.

driven by the idea of following up the Heatable Capsule Collection 1.0 with a second stage, introducing additional features and new silhouettes.

Heatable is just one possible feature. What are other smart technology ideas that could be implemented?

Ahmet Mercan: I do not want to give too much away, but in the long run it will amount to offering more and different services to the wearer by means of sensors, feeds, and geo-tracking. There are great examples of how technology is the entry point to offer true value to the consumer across many industries. This is exactly the aspect we are working on as a team.

How much further do you think Intelligent Wear can develop?

Antje Hundhausen: As a first step, we launched the app that regulates the jacket’s heat output. However, in cooperation with the DFKI, the German Research Centre for Artificial Intelligence, and other

D e d i c ate d to ou r be a u ti f u l S i sters.

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experts, we intend to go much further than that.

For example, by developing a jacket that knows exactly what you need, even in terms of health – fully integrated like a smart watch. An app that connects to your body via your jacket and acts like a personal assistant.

Embedding a technological entertainment factor in a product is certainly part of what is admittedly a broad form of gamification. Is this the next big hype we will experience? The combination of gamification and personalisation, which enables completely new product ideas, access to the consumer, and a completely different form of storytelling?

Antje Hundhausen: We are studying this topic in depth on many different levels, primarily in order to gain access to the young target group. The journey is only just beginning and there are endless products and services that would make sense as add-ons and would allow us to interconnect even more. There is a great deal to learn from the gaming and e-sports sector. A whole new language is emerging, and we, as a brand, simply have to learn to understand it. Today, 50 percent of all Germans are gamers or e-sports enthusiasts, a gigantic and, in many respects, still uncharted market.

What gaming brings to our industry is, above all, superior technology, and an idea of how to adapt it for a transformed market and consumer.

Ahmet Mercan: I believe the greatest potential lies in the cross-functional networking of industries.

What we are definitely going to see is a completely new understanding of lifestyle and comfort: our emerging consumers will define the agenda of how we need to increasingly interconnect fashion, consumption, and technology. If we look at the Asian 144

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In January 2020, AlphaTauri, Telekom Fashion Fusion, and Schoeller Textiles launched the first capsule featuring two jackets and a waistcoat whose heating function can be controlled via an app.

Just the beginning of a shared vision.

markets, we in Western Europe still have a lot of catching up to do in a global context. Nobody can currently predict what the perfect product will be in the future. We need to observe, experiment, and always be ready to adapt in record time. The best example is digital fashion. It is incredibly attractive for brands, because the value chain is completely different, and many completely new aspects come into play. But, at least for now, you can only play a role in the virtual world if you are also a factor in the physical world.

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Professional data collection, evaluation, and transparency are the key principles that LSTNR offers its partners as a service. Data for Good and other digital community technologies are intended to assist retailers in the urgently required transformation to connected Retail-as-a-Service.

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LSTNR

DATA FOR GOOD Hakan Temür of LSTNR outlines the absurdity of customers having to buy back their own data from platforms in order to reach their community. The concept of making one’s individual data accessible to all – and even sharing it – to create transparency and become more efficient and sustainable, was the underlying motivation for his LSTNR retail innovation hub.

Text: Isabel Faiss. Photos: LSTNR

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hat were and are your underlying motives for radically questioning the laws of retail? And what does LSTNR implement?

After 25 years of experience in B2B brand management for fashion and lifestyle brands, as well as 10 years in the B2C retail sector, I decided in 2019 to dovetail both sets of expertise and realign them as a commerce and experience space. Early in 2020, we then sought to launch a digital framework that would allow us to make everything that is currently possible in terms of technology and data protection measurable, coupled with innovative services. The cornerstone of these services is Retailas-a-Service. But then the pandemic came along, and we could not launch as scheduled. Instead, we implemented the framework on a plug-and-play basis in our existing concept store, The Listener, in Frankfurt to provide conceptual proof. To this end, we defined different areas in which to test these technologies to allow our partners to manage their merchandise and their sales performance in real time, as well as interact with us directly.

What is your role in this?

As a service supplier, we provide the space, our community, our professional consultants as storytellers, and additional support. In addition, we continually test and develop various experience concepts, ranging from live broadcasting and content creation to possible gamification approaches featuring VR and AR experiences.

For that purpose, we constantly observe which digital solutions are already available on the market that would be predestined for retailers to interact digitally. We do not develop everything in-house, but activate the relevant specialist partners, bring them on board, and present the results here. Our goal is to take our own store to the next level while inviting other brands to test their prototypes and experiment in this space – always in a highly efficient and measurable format.

Your thesis suggests that retailers will no longer own inventory in the future. How will retail work then?

The future of retail no longer revolves around buying goods. We are utterly convinced of that. To some extent, style in progress

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online stores are already exclusively offering concession merchandise. This means that the platform in question earns less margin in sales, makes its community available, and the goods remain property of the brands. On the other hand, this approach minimises stock risks. This concept will prevail, not least because brands desire direct access to consumers – and technology makes that possible. The community a retailer builds based on its concept becomes crucial in this context, because this community is an asset that brands want to tap into via a partnership.

Brands would, of course, ideally prefer to attract customers to their own platform within a direct-to-consumer model. Retailers like us are something of an activator to provide brands with this access and to share our community. The question is, however, what relevance do partners retain once communities have been exhausted? What happens then? Does that mean we need to keep acquiring new brands in order to share our communities with? The subject is extremely complex and there is no blueprint yet. The Listener is the laboratory in which we test different topics of this new ecosystem in order to pass on our findings within the market.

What does this involve in practice?

We strive to make the described framework broader and more experiential by presenting the topics hospitality, mental health, and future foods, as well as everything related to urban trends such as urban living and mobility, in the context of a studio for content creation and broadcasting. On this stage, the participating brands are relaunched and introduced to our customers in a manner that allows for real-time evaluation of the process. New floor space needs to be experience space, because the margin-based business and commissions will no longer be among the monetisation options for retailers. The future lies in a service package consisting of space rental, subscriptions, additional support, software, or staff allocation. Some excellent concepts already exist, such as Showfields in New York, Blaenk in Cologne, Vaund in Hannover, or The Latest in Berlin. These different players in individual focus areas are all united by the Retail-as-aService model. However, it is impossible to cover all the future retail areas without adequate technology, the proper software, and the corresponding mindset. The ultimate goal is always to provide a robust proof of concept, and to be able to scale an approach from within The Listener.

Our digital framework enables everything, regardless of whether you plug in a display, a sensory box, or a gaming tool. Our concept can be set up anywhere, be it at a

trade show, in a pop-up store, or in a tent. The Listener has, so to speak, opened up a new front and created an initial foundation for jointly developing new solutions by drawing up model projects that we make available to our community transparently.

Keyword gamification. Where do you think this particular field is heading?

I believe the way forward is to put together a whole package consisting of digital design, virtual showroom, smart supply on demand, digital traceability, and maximum transparency of all stakeholders as a digital seal of quality for brands, retailers, and products. The future is measured in digital currency. Everything is digital, as everything has a digital footprint. This requires us to make the entire value chain of products and services sufficiently transparent to ensure this transparency can lead to a kind of “scoring” within the corresponding community.

“We want to be the platform on which everyone can utilise plug-and-play features to obtain expertise, data, and transparent expert knowledge and test their prototypes, both physically and in the cloud.” – Hakan Temür, LSTNR

“Game over, old retail!

Welcome, new world!” was the title of a shop window campaign that cross-referenced The Listener’s new alignment.

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THE PRINCIPLE OF PLAY, FUN, AND EXCITEMENT As early as 1974, Michele Ferrero’s world-famous Kinder Surprise egg demonstrated what is currently establishing itself as a gigantic market trend: gamification as a consumption accelerator at the point of sale. Sophisticated technologies and AI-controlled systems are used to channel the natural play instinct of customers to where it makes the most sense: the immediate environment of the product and brand. Initial beacon projects in the retail sector suggest that there are practically no limits to the creative playground in terms of combining digital and physical worlds. The point of sale evolves into the point of emotion. Text: Isabel Faiss. Photos: Stores 150

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The architects of Clou Architects refer to the interactive façades they developed for the UniFun mall in Chengdu as the “Media Machine”. Digitally configurable surfaces communicate and interact with their environment.

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amification refers to all ideas that make use of the technology, logic, aesthetics, and functionality of gaming platforms and apply them across genres.

Although approaches can vary, the objective is always the same: to address customers through games, through playful interaction with technology and merchandise, or directly in their favourite games – and to encourage them to shop. This can be achieved via theme-specific capsule collections that are offered exclusively within a game, integrated gaming tools at the point of sale (POS), or app-controlled interlinking of real and virtual worlds. Some literally lay a trail in the Metaverse to lure users into the real store. The fun of collecting, playing, discovering, and winning is the primal human instinct that turns this approach into a success story.

THE PHYSICAL EXPERIENCE When digital design masterminds including art director Andrés Reisinger, Amber Jae Sloten of The Fabricant, and Fredrik Hellberg of Space Popular discussed the rapid rise of the Metaverse for the exclusive Dezeen Club Symposium, they gathered in a virtual rooftop bar on Gather. More than 200 guests took part in the debate via their avatars, enjoyed the virtual scenery, and ordered cocktails. What is already reality for avatars on platforms such as Gather, Fortnite, Altspace, and Second Life is now making its way into the retail sphere: the fluid blending of physical and digital experience in real time. In the physical world, gamification bridges the gap to an individualised virtual parallel world, but consumption remains real, and the direct effect of a particular measure is more quantifiable than ever due to data collection.

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Digital advertising, the latest games, fireworks on Chinese New Year – the interactive façade of UniFun can also be experienced individually via smartphone.

Inspired by the anime game culture on social media, the cube concept offers a new platform that merges architecture with digital context. Innovative architectural design and cutting-edge content – whether globalised or localised – synchronise to jointly extend their respective reach in an interface between virtual and physical worlds.” – Clou Architects

UniFun/Chengdu

Multimedia Façade UniFun Chengdu is among the projects that made waves in 2021. The mall connects the physical and virtual world by literally drawing customers in via interactive surfaces on the façade before they even enter the physical space – for example, by scanning displayed QR codes. The mall interacts with its surroundings via its façades, which are deliberately designed to resemble a small park – the perfect place for after-work get-togethers of the up-and-coming generation of technologists that usually hang out in the Tianfu district. It also interacts with passers-by, who are addressed in real time via spotlights, current topics, small games, and promotions.

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Non-stop fun: Puma’s Skill Cube allows customers to test products in virtual training sessions with professional athletes.

Experiences like this – which seamlessly merge online and offline worlds – are definitely the future of gamification in retail. But the key is in being genuine. Throwing random bits of tech into your stores and hoping it makes you more of a destination will not cut it at all. You have to start with the consumer, figure out what makes them tick and create a really authentic experience to match.” – Oliver Roddy, Greenroom Design

With 11 themed experience zones and 29 different product interaction areas spread across five floors, the mall is destined to become a multi-dimensional experience centre.

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Puma/New York

The Skill Cube – Brand Ambassadors at the POS Puma opened its first flagship store in the US on New York’s Fifth Avenue in 2019.

Featuring technically equipped engagement zones, the concept focuses primarily on the gaming and technology affinity of the young target group. The Greenroom design agency created the Skill Cube, an attraction and touchpoint between customer and brand, as the core element of the store. “We created a product-trial experience that allows you to go through training sessions with your idols: Romelu Lukaku, Antoine Griezemann, and Lewis Hamilton. It takes you through skillbased trials, coaching you as you go,” says Oliver Roddy of Greenroom Design. Every customer can choose products for the Skill Cube in the store and test them immediately. www.puma.com

JD Mall/Xi’an

Superlative Experience Temple Here, omnichannel is interpreted as the seamless fusion of services, sales, logistics, and merchandise management. JD.com benefited greatly from its e-commerce expertise for the opening of its physical omnichannel mall in Xi’an. Customers can request products to be sent directly to their home

by scanning QR codes in the WeChat app, share their purchase with their community, and earn bonus points. The focus is always on the experience. The mall appeals to its tech-savvy customers with technical innovations and gadgets such as holographic projections, VR tools, AI in the form of robots, a virtual livestream room, and a public gaming area.

white-sand.it @whitesandofficial

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Hipanda Store/Tokyo

The Ghost House An accompanying app harnesses AR and AE tools to transform this store in the heart of Tokyo into a multi-dimensional experience. The Ghost House comprises a series of sequences in which the visitor is on the lookout for the master of the house, the grim Hipanda. Invisible at first, he then suddenly pops up in various interactions – both digital and analogue.

Japanese design agency Curiosity deliberately designed the Hipanda store in Tokyo to be an experiential space that redefined customers’ expectations of the shopping experience.

Breakout with Karl is a classic arcade game that can be played on all devices, even in the Karl Lagerfeld stores.

Breakout with Karl/Smack Agency

“It Makes Them Feel Like You’ve Done Something for Them and Want To Give Them Something Back”

For agency founder and creative director Lubna Keawpanna of Smack Agency, gaming has already established itself as a marketing tool.

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With Breakout with Karl, British design studio Smack Agency has just created the third web game for Karl Lagerfeld for the launch of the 2022 Spring-Summer collection. Creative Director Lubna Keawpanna explains why there is much more value in this topic than is apparent at first glance.

The collaboration with Karl Lagerfeld was the perfect kickoff. How many other projects are currently in the pipeline?

We have since worked on a game for Tory Burch in the Middle East and we are launching a game for Molton Brown’s 50th anniversary next month.

And we have been lucky enough to create games throughout ten years for amazing retailers like Ted Baker, Crabtree & Evenlyn, St Tropez, Molton Brown, Olivia Burton, and others.

Where do you see most potential for gamification in retail?

Gamification is just such a great way to engage your customers, to make them feel like you have done something for them, thought about them, and want to give them something back. It shows these amazing brands in a unique light, lets them be more playful, personable, and approachable.

Users love interacting with digital activations which have been thought out and represent their favourite brands, including a great giveaway. It really is a win-win situation for both brand and customers.

How much power do you see in the fusion between fashion and gaming in terms of retail?

Exposure to the brand in a different way keeps the brand top-of-mind and drives sales as a result. Fashion and gamification are definitely going to continue within marketing strategies for brands, as it is such a great way to engage existing and new customers. It enhances customer experience, renders a brand memorable, and meets the demands of tech-savvy customers.

It really has proved to be a foolproof part of the marketing mix for fashion brands.

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Nike/Paris

Europe’s House of Innovation

Following New York and Shanghai, Nike’s first House of Innovation in Europe opened in Paris. The name speaks for itself, as is evident from the list of technical and app-based end-to-end digital solutions that seamlessly link online and offline. For example, you can select items online and have them delivered directly to your dressing room on your next visit, or chat with staff via Swoosh.

The Kids Pod interactive gaming station allows customers to try out products from the children‘s and youth department on a monitor while playing short sports games.

Showcase of comprehensive data competence: Nike publishes data that interests customers – sports results, promotions in the store and worldwide, app innovations, product information from the Research Lab, and even the weather – on its Mission Control wall.

Philipp Reinartz/Pfeffermind

“Most Things Happen in the Mind” Berlin-based Pfeffermind is one of the few agencies that specialises exclusively in the development of games and game-based solutions for companies. After implementing campaigns for Ikea, Samsung, and the Goethe Institute, agency owner Philipp Reinartz is familiar with the entire range of possibilities in retail.

Are highly complex market mechanisms or is purely human logic actually behind the success of gamification?

In my experience, the success story of gamification is founded on focusing on the individual.

It is not primarily a matter of market mechanisms. Today, we think far more than we used to: What do people really enjoy? How can we 158

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motivate them? How can we make tedious todos more pleasant?

Are there any sweet spots where the topic should ideally be introduced?

Gamification can be applied in very different areas in retail, too. Is the focus on employees or customers? What are my goals? Games are motivational works of art. Gamification transfers their brushstrokes to different canvases.

How much potential do you see in the long and medium term?

The gamification market has been growing rapidly for several years. By now, most big companies have the topic on their radar. I have already realised projects with a third of the DAX companies. Ten years ago, we had to knock on doors to be heard.

As a gamification expert, Philipp Reinartz and his Pfeffermind agency collaborate with clients such as Ikea, Sky, and Samsung.

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LECTRA

NEXT LEVEL: MADE-TOMEASURE

Q

uite suddenly, you are no longer a letter or a number. No standardised L or Size 38 is inscribed in the collar. It says what your measurements really amount to: you. When relevant technology and a thorough understanding of the logic of on demand converge, it results in something that solves many problems within the fashion industry. That is the theory, anyway. Lectra provides a very concrete proposal for feasibility and implementation. The French company has a background in upstream production and has made a name for itself by supplying cutting machines, CAD software, and pattern-making solutions. Meanwhile, the focus at Lectra has gradually shifted to the consumer, a change in thinking that Lectra’s Jacqueline Claudia Kellner identifies as a megatrend throughout the entire industry: “In the past, the industry made an offer on to the consumer, today the consumer himself determines the nature of that offer.

The industry now listens to the customer, not the other way around. The focus is now on product customisability.”

The headquarters in Bordeaux-Cestas has reacted to this trend by offering the fashion industry holistic concepts for the practical implementation of products on demand, which makes customisation scalable. For Steffen Meiler of Lectra, the potential lies in applying the model already

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The term on demand contains a promise. A promise to customers that they are directly involved in the product development process, as well as a promise to the industry that increased efficiency counteracts overproduction and return rates. Digital transformation, Industry 4.0, and technological support – solving complex production processes is the field in which French company Lectra has established itself as a pioneer. Now it is pushing on demand to the next level. Text: Isabel Faiss. Photos: Lectra

learned in made-to-measure clothing to all product groups via new technologies. Lectra has already embarked on this journey with a number of international customers.

AGILITY IS KEY

“On demand can be interpreted as a useful tool for short-term flash programmes and smaller batches, and for readjusting topics in the market at short notice, but it can also be applied to customised production (madeto-measure) and/or customisation (only changing the model, without changing the dimensions),” says Meiler.

In his opinion, there are two essential catalysts that everything hinges on. On the one hand, how well you know your customer, because individuals have long replaced target groups. On the other hand, how quickly you can produce to their specific preferences across all levels of the upstream stages. Given that timing is crucial, maximum agility is a prerequisite, by which he specifically means “small to medium-sized production capacities on site.”

As specialists in digitally controlled cutting technology, Lectra has developed three modules to make implementing “on demand” as simple as possible for its fashion industry customers: a made-to-order programme for small batches and flash programmes featuring standardised

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products, a made-to-customise solution that integrates configuration tools and clearly defined design options, and – last but not least – a made-to-measure platform that offers the highest level of customisation that Lectra, as a 360° supplier, can provide.

CUSTOMISATION FOR THE MASSES

“We already serve a number of customers who have installed cutting machines that are synchronised by us via the cloud at various European production sites in order to allow dual-track production in their factories. The mindset of managing a cloud-based virtual production environment alongside a physical one is becoming increasingly prevalent. We are currently collaborating very closely with smaller brands that are more direct-to-consumer oriented. Yet customisation and made-to-measure production is, in fact, also a fast-growing field for global brands and retailers,“ explains Meiler. The fact that Lectra’s solutions offer attractive entry points to sharing economy models is something that Kellner experiences on a daily basis in the form of numerous enquiries from the start-up scene that reach her via the company’s cooperation with the German Fashion Council. However, this does not quite represent reality yet. Meiler believes

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the challenges involved in such micro factories based on the copy shop principle still lie in access rights, but it could be a step in the right direction nonetheless: “The fashion industry is currently going through the painful experience of discovering how crisis-prone a production and sourcing strategy that relies on allocating production slots in factories on the other side of the world can be.” He sees on-demand production as a huge service boost – not only for the end consumer, but also for his customers in terms of sustainability, company growth, and a more efficient use of resources. “Retailers, too, benefit from swift re-delivery capability and a demand-driven restocking of particularly sought-after pieces that can replace gigantic NOS programmes.”

Essentially, what Lectra offers its customers in terms of customisation and on-demand manufacturing reverses the logic fashion has learned and followed since the beginning of mass production. Concrete demand is something the industry simply needs to learn once more.

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THE AURA BLOCKCHAIN CONSORTIUM

HOW A COLLECTIVE BRAIN WORKS

Cartier, Richemont Group, LVMH, and Prada Group have created their own competence centre in the form of a non-profit organisation called Aura. Established on neutral ground, the joint service provider not only serves to develop new software solutions for digital certification, but also acts as a think tank and innovation platform for complex technologies and issues. It is a lighthouse project led by Daniela Ott that went live in 2021, after three years of development.

Text: Isabel Faiss. Photos: The Aura Blockchain Consortium

Under the motto “competi­ tors collaborate for the greater good”, the Aura team, led by Daniela Ott, has set out to make blockchain technology more easily and widely accessible.

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B

lockchain is one of those terms that only insiders fully understand. What exactly does Aura do?

Aura is a blockchain consortium founded by Cartier, Richemont Group, LVMH, and Prada Group as a non-profit association headquartered in Geneva. We operate like a software company that delivers blockchain-based solutions in the form of digital certificates and digital twins of analogue products. We also offer various applications for our brands to extract information more easily from the blockchain or integrate it into their own brand website.

How does Aura use this technology to improve the fashion industry and the world?

There are three specific aspects in which Aura really does make the world a better place. The most important is certainly sustainability, which we achieve through transparency and traceability from the raw material to the finished product. This places a very valuable tool in the hands of the consumer – it puts the focus on them. After all, the information about the entire supply chain is stored on the blockchain and brands can use it to offer services, even after the purchase. However, the blockchain has to be extremely easy to harness, which is something we work hard on every day. All the information we affix to a product as a tag via RFID codes, chips, Invisible Inc, or AI imaging provides a valuable foundation for areas such as recycling, counterfeit protection, and repair or maintenance. The second-hand market is very important to the luxury goods sector and blockchain provides security. Circular economy will also benefit enormously once the authenticity of a product, including its past, can be traced. Having a digital certificate of a product on your mobile phone will revolutionise the entire resale market. One can simply select the “sell” function to directly connect to corresponding marketplaces, which then incorporate all the product information automatically. That renders the entire process so much safer and simpler. We develop targeted solutions for all these topics in committees in cooperation with our clients.

As a technology hub, you have succeeded in doing something that seems impossible elsewhere: getting competitors to collaborate for the good of all – in the luxury segment, no less! What arguments made this possible?

All luxury brands face the same challenges. Our interface in the consortium not only makes newly developed digital solutions cheaper for everyone, but what is much more important is that the brands learn from each other. The greatest advantage of the non-profit structure is that we are not striving for maximum profit, but for the common goal of making new technologies as easily accessible as possible for everyone. If everyone were to

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run off and develop their own blockchain solutions, it would be inefficient and not set standards. Our slogan is “competitors collaborate for the greater good”. In our case, this applies to the planet and the consumer.

You plan to introduce an NFT marketplace solution in Spring 2022.

Unlike public blockchains like Bitcoin, we are privately run and have full transparency and discretion over who is allowed access to information stored on our proprietary blockchain. That makes it more sustainable and secure. We have already generated millions of NFTs every year as digital certificates, which are, in our case, always linked to a physical product. This means that they are not NFTs as one knows them from Crypto Punk and the speculatively driven art market. We are more interested in providing our brands with the technology to integrate NFTs into their product strategy in the long term as a purely digital product, or as a link between physical and a digital product. For some that will be in 10, 15, or 20 years, for others next year.

How much potential does NFT actually harbour?

The underlying idea simply makes sense. You purchase the NFT in an online shop and can wear it immediately on your “alter ego” in the Metaverse or place it in your digital wardrobe. The purchased item can, on order, be delivered in physical form after it was specially manufactured. I have noticed through my children how fluid the boundaries between real and digital have become.

Digital assets do not only appeal to digital natives. This is not a topic reserved exclusively for gamers and collectors. NFTs as a tool for digital traceability and certification will not replace the physical product in a first step, but it introduces an enormous degree of professionalism and security to the luxury segment. The next step is to use NFTs as purely virtual assets, where creativity and the fun factor are no longer limited.

High-profile collaboration: Cartier, Richemont Group, LVMH, and Prada Group founded Aura as a shared non-profit centre of excellence.

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Curiosity as motivating factor: Alberto not only wants to understand its target groups, but to surprise them.

ALBERTO

“WE ARE LOOKING FORWARD TO TURNING 101 AND 102” Alberto intends to celebrate its 100th anniversary in 2022 with a string of small surprises. Marco Lanowy and his team draw from the past what makes them fit for the future.

Text: Martina Müllner-Seybold. Photos: Alberto

“Sometimes it is better to shut up and listen,” smiles Marco Lanowy, Managing Director of Alberto. With this attitude in mind, the trouser specialist from Mönchengladbach has been conquering one niche after another.

However, the motivation for diversification is not mere calculation. “It is simple curiosity. We surprise because we are curious and develop products that arouse curiosity.”

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the golfer, the long-distance hiker, and the barista. “We are service providers – not just to our wholesale customers, but, above all, to the people who wear our trousers every day.”

Lanowy is convinced that (over)fulfilling a purpose is what creates true sustainability.

Alberto defines the latter profoundly, rather than dressing itself up with buzz words.

“Instead of shouting out slogans, we focus on new standard processes, circular economy, and a willingness to tweak every little detail.

We tinker with how to mix long-staple cotton and short-staple recycled fibres to ensure denim remains tear-resistant and durable. A recycled pair of jeans that wears out quickly does nothing for sustainability.”

CONTENT BEATS LABEL

The cause itself, not the best way to commercialise it, is therefore always at the root of Alberto’s considerations. No wonder, then, that the centenary is not perceived as an occasion to celebrate own achievements. “We will certainly take the opportunity to thank the people who define Alberto. Our anniversary

promotions, however, are fine filet pieces that we plan to communicate throughout 2022.

Many of these collaborations will surprise people, and that is a deliberate choice. The reason we are turning 100 is that we are looking forward to turning 101 and 102.

Preferably, we want to last another hundred years,” Lanowy says. No retrospection, no navelgazing – Alberto only looks into the future.

“Maintaining eye level is important these days,” argues Lanowy. This seems to apply particularly in a retail landscape that is outsourcing an increasing degree of responsibility to manufacturers. “We like retailers who buy and sell,” Lanowy explains. Yet he does not deny that the division of power between retailers and manufacturers is currently undergoing a great deal of change. “Retailers are dependent on functioning merchandise flows, both in fact and metaphorically in e-commerce. We are convinced that our split of sixty percent classic pre-order and forty percent seasonal bestseller management, for which we bear the risk, constitutes a fair offer.”

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Managing Director Florian Wortmann perceives Baldessarini as a brand with attitude.

BALDESSARINI

“A BRAND NEEDS TO TAKE A STAND” What characterises the heritage of the collection founded by Werner Baldessarini? Self-confident masculinity. The way forward is more complex, according to Managing Director Florian Wortmann.

He plans to instil Baldessarini with fresh excitement – and attitude.

Interview: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: Baldessarini

Baldessarini has strong connotations of its own history. How does one incorporate that into the future?

When I started last January, I reached out to Werner Baldessarini to gain a better understanding of the brand. I am convinced that you have to return to the roots before you can renew them with credibility. A man who wears Baldessarini needs a high level of self-awareness – this claim remains valid.

However, the distinct masculinity of the past no longer reflects the modern male image.

Masculine looks are absolutely acceptable, but they should always be playful and laced with a touch of irony.

Exciting, please explain that in more detail.

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Strong roots, fresh image: Baldessarini has adopted a stringently contemporary approach.

and transfer it into the present. It is all about the desire to experiment and push boundaries. Who is to say that our menswear cannot be worn by women too? Our shirts made of flowing viscose or silk show that the boundaries between womenswear and menswear are becoming increasingly blurred. That is why we could envisage releasing a small capsule featuring unisex essentials. Why not?

You have studied generations Y and Z at length. What does that mean for Baldessarini, especially as ready-to-wear is a core brand element?

I firmly believe in the return of readyto-wear. It will, however, be interpreted differently: with broader silhouettes as an expression of a desire for freedom that promises more comfort. For me, this aspect is just as indispensable as a premium brand‘s commitment to sustainability. This is what our claim “Tribute to Nature” is all about. Our denim, for example, is BCI certified as of September, and we are gradually shifting to natural and nature-based fabrics that require less water in

the production process. We share this information with our customer via a QR code, as we want to raise awareness of the issue.

Generally speaking, fashion is more consumer-driven today.

Yes, with the new generation setting the trends. In this context, product marketing evolves into relationship marketing, because the brand thrives on the interaction with a community that shares a certain attitude to life. We strive to engage them at digital touchpoints, which is why we not only present content, fashion, and videos in cinemas, but also on social media platforms such as Instagram. Similarly, our e-shop brings Baldessarini to life despite the fact that we intend to remain a brand for the specialist retail trade. Above all, a modern brand needs to take a clear stand: in favour of diversity, against racism. It is no longer acceptable to stay out of everything. Only brands that show attitude can hope for their fashion to evolve into a medium of expression. This is what restores its meaning and esteem.

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Beautiful colours, modernity, and refined details are the hallmarks of bags by Les Visionnaires.

LES VISIONNAIRES

PIONEERING SPIRIT Bags and accessories by Les Visionnaires are still relatively new on the market. The driving force behind the brand is Liebeskind co-founder Semih Simsek. After the online B2C soft launch last spring, the label is now venturing into the traditional retail sector with the support of sales agencies.

to reconcile fashion and lifestyle with the important issues of our time. This is a matter close to our hearts, and we have consistently manifested all these aspects from the very beginning with the aim of expanding them further,” Simsek explains.

Text: Kay Alexander Plonka. Photos: Les Visionnaires

The desire to work creatively with leather has gripped him yet again: Semih Simsek, who has already enjoyed success as Liebeskind co-founder, is back in the game. He has set up a design studio for Les Visionnaires in Paris, while the production team manages the manufacturing process from the Chinese metropolitan region of Guangzhou. The leather is sourced from South America, New Zealand, and Europe. “We attach great importance to transparency and have been CO2 neutral from the outset. In the ‘We take care’ section of our website, we provide detailed information on our social commitment and our production standards, because we want 168

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THE RECIPE

Les Visionnaires’ prices fall within the accessible luxury segment: quality products at comprehensible prices. Retail prices range from 150 Euros at entry-level to 250 Euros at the top end, meaning the core retail price is defined at 200 Euros. Wallets and belts retail at prices between 50 and 60 Euros.

The collection of 30 styles is very compact.

“We want Les Visionnaires to accompany our customers throughout the day: at work, at sports, and in the evening – always with the right look and feel, as well as the correct interpretation of Basic and Fashion for the appropriate moment,” says Simsek. The range of silhouettes includes fashion trends,

such as pleated pillow bags made of soft lamb nappa leather, as well as timeless basics, such as large totes, classic shoulder and camera bags, and elegant clutches, which are accentuated with unconventional details such as contrast stitching or colour-contrasting linings. There is usually a choice of 6 to 7 colours per model, resulting in up to 12 variants including different leather finishes. The aim is to increase brand awareness gradually by expanding sales and stepping up marketing efforts. A soft launch was carried out via Instagram and the company‘s own website, which primarily served to establish social media presence and initiate contact with consumers. Now, in the second season, the focus is on expanding the B2B segment. In Germany and Switzerland, Les Visionnaires is represented by sales agency Ben And. Austria is covered by Hans-Peter Grossbötzl of Scorpio Fashion. Once this first step has been completed, the next season will be dedicated to European exports.

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The horizon of an urban mountaineer is international in nature: Markus Meindl loves placing his world and values in new contexts.

MEINDL

ALWAYS HONEST Meindl Authentic Luxury is undisputed in its niche. The timeless collections for urban mountaineers fascinate far beyond the alpine region, as they overfulfil the longing for a genuine product.

Text: Martina Müllner-Seybold.

Photos: Meindl Authentic Luxury

Foresight is one of Markus Meindl’s strengths. Meindl has bravely circumnavigated the procurement crisis that is plaguing others: “We never stopped buying raw materials and manufacturing, even during the worst Corona periods. This means we are prepared for when the upswing comes and raw materials become even scarcer,” says Meindl. This foresight even grants the owner of Germany’s 16th oldest family business the freedom to realise other projects close to his heart. For example, the entrepreneur recently launched the Save the Wildlife 170

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project together with his hunting friend Max Mayr-Melnhof. “We lease green and flowering strips, which are crucial for healthy flora and fauna. Here, young animals can find shelter and food,” Meindl says with passion. There it is again, the Meindl motto of moving forward instead of debating for ages.

The connection to nature in the Alps is important to him. After all, a healthy ecosystem makes a decisive contribution to the quality of Meindl Authentic Luxury’s products. “In an area where fashion is still in its infancy regarding transparency, we can pinpoint on which picturesque Bavarian pasture the cow that supplied our leather was raised. Even a wild animal has a wonderful life in its natural habitat,” argues Meindl.

TRANSPARENT SINCE 1683

“We have a tradition of full transparency; you could always ask us how we produce

what and where,” says the entrepreneur.

Accordingly, a true-to-life look behind the scenes is an integral part of brand communication. The insights that Meindl and his family provide are not staged. Opening the doors of their private residence for Süddeutsche Zeitung, for example, feels quite natural to Markus Meindl: “It allows us to show the Meindl lifestyle.” A prototypical example of how modern design elements such as exposed concrete and clear lines can be combined with the sensual originality of the Meindl furniture collection. The bar cabinet is stocked with 4X50 Rum, which Meindl initiated in collaboration with companions and distributes with impressive exclusivity.

Passions that the entrepreneur allows himself to indulge in, knowing that Meindl Authentic Luxury is on solid footing, perfectly positioned, and fit for the future thanks to its values and origins.

Better Rich presents itself as a sportswear brand with a lifestyle-oriented visual language.

Special haptics are always in focus. 98 percent of the brand's manufacturing is done in Europe.

BETTER RICH

“WE INVEST IN THE BRAND” Maximum commitment: Wolfgang Lohe, now the sole owner of Better Rich, is developing the label into a lifestyle sportswear collection that offers a total look. He is well on his way to achieving his declared goal of making Better Rich more visible as a brand.

Interview: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: Better Rich

Loungewear only was yesterday: Better Rich is now being transformed from a product into a lifestyle brand. What progress has been made?

Wolfgang Lohe, owner of Better Rich: We have added blouses, dresses, skirts, and most recently fleece, teddy jackets, and coats to our range of knitwear. In addition, we offer denim and the sustainability capsule Better Together. The sales increase in womenswear is flanked by a substantial expansion of the menswear line, which is why the latter now accounts for 30 percent of sales instead of five percent as back in 2019. A promising signal for the future!

How do you achieve this in these challenging times?

By not only investing in the product, but also selling sustainably. Between seasons, we take care of the retailers' sell-offs and steer the merchandise to ensure that the relevant items are in the right place at the right time. This is controlled by a sales-based merchandise management system. Generally speaking, we are in the process of establishing Better Rich as the spearhead in the premium segment, both in terms of modernity and quality.

How can that be accomplished?

We have doubled our team from 30 to 60 employees. A new product management team supports Head of Design Markus Funder, and in terms of communication we are focusing on 360-degree marketing including a dedicated social media strategy. In-house, we have realigned the position of Head of E-Commerce, who is now solely responsible for visibility on the web.

Does this also benefit specialised retailers?

Absolutely. We handle sales in Germany and Holland in-house and were able to increase average orders by more than 50 percent. In the Benelux region and Switzerland, we hired new agencies to represent our menswear. We also have a sales agent in Ireland. We recently returned to New York, our birthplace, to launch a subsidiary called Better Rich USA Corporation. We plan to establish a total of

Wolfgang Lohe is the proud sole owner of Better Rich. He has already proven his brand-building skills at Gant.

50 shop-in-shops this year. In any case, we are just as successful throughout Germany at the big top dogs as we are in smaller boutiques. As a result, we succeeded in increasing turnover by 50 percent from 2019 to 2020 and will almost double it from 2020 to 2021. We spent the last two challenging years developing all departments of Better Rich in peace and quiet. Our big advantage is that we, as a fresh brand that has not been pigeonholed yet, earn retailer money from the very first moment. Simultaneously, we are an absolutely reliable partner for specialised retailers.

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Doucal’s celebrates its roots in the Italian region of Marche in its communication strategy.

DOUCAL’S

FULL OF CHARACTER Traditional and yet so modern: Italian shoe brand Doucal’s provides the shoes for modern Italian elegance. In the following interview, CEO and Creative Director Gianni Giannini talks about how the family business has become internationally successful – and what digitalisation has to do with it.

Interview: Martina Müllner-Seybold. Photos: Doucal’s

Your region, the Marche, is home to countless shoe manufacturers. Yet only few have managed to develop into a brand comparable to Doucal’s.

Would you be willing to share your secret to success?

Gianni Giannini, CEO and Creative Director of Doucal’s: We are incredibly proud of our Italian roots, yet we are quite un-Italian in one important aspect. We maintain a consistent, recognisable style without abandoning our roots for the sake of chasing a trend. Our father laid the foundations for this approach by modelling the brand on English counterparts.

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I would argue that one of the strengths of Doucal’s is that its shoes are so perfectly in tune with the zeitgeist and embrace the look that brands like Circolo 1901, Lardini, Stile Latino, Tagliatore, or Paolini are advocating. A shoe as casually elegant as a Doucal’s is a perfect match for this new ready-to-wear style.

It is remarkable that you should mention these brands in particular, because some of them are genuine friends with whom we exchange ideas quite extensively. They send me their colour charts and we coordinate our shoes accordingly. But that is not the only secret. Our shoes not only offer a certain outward look, but also offer comfort inside. That is essential nowadays and requires a willingness to embrace innovation. We have, for example, hidden a layer of memory foam in our shoes. It makes you feel comfortable every time you slip them on and allows you to walk around all day, even in our super-light moccasins.

Finding new talent for the shoemaking trade is a huge challenge. How do you address it?

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Fortunately, we addressed this issue early on.

I have always insisted that we need a whole team of young people. After all, a single young person surrounded by significantly older people will never be happy, nor will he or she be able to implement new ideas. So, we brought in a lot of young blood. A project with the University of Ancona attracted special attention. We developed a pair of glasses that records every move made by an experienced shoemaker. With just one touch, you can play back these films in the glasses and learn how to execute the skills perfectly. This project is absolutely unique and illustrates how successful we are in combining traditional craftsmanship with modern technologies. And it is by no means the only field that we have systematically digitised. Our modern approach is being passed on by word-of-mouth.

Not all Doucal’s customers know that you also offer a women’s line. Who is it aimed at?

I am convinced that female customers are no longer all fashion dolls looking for decorated high heels or sneakers. There are many modern, successful women out there who ultimately want exactly the same thing that our male customers appreciate: distinctive quality, comfort, intrinsic value and, as a result, modernity. The feedback we receive from end consumers confirms this notion.

So, we believe that we can still generate plenty of growth in this particular segment.

Brothers Gianni and Jerry Giannini led Doucal’s from Montegranaro into the world.

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Funky Staff’s local online partners close the deal: The proprietary Swipe & Find platform identifies the retailer closest to the customer.

Funky Staff has gained the trust of many retailers by catering towards trends, acting swiftly and thoughtfully, and offering a service package that strengthens local businesses.

FUNKY STAFF

“THIS IS GRADE A” Funky Staff handles several things quite differently than others. The brand’s dedicated Local Online partner programme constitutes pure retailer empowerment. Funky Staff has become the darling of its retail partners by maintaining efficient logistics, modern collection rhythms, and the necessary marketing power to quickly turn around delivered merchandise.

Text: Martina Müllner-Seybold. Photos: Funky Staff

“Uwe’s day must have more than 24 hours,” laughs Peggy Reepschläger of Sixdays.

“The energy he invests in the brand and in supporting us retailers is unparalleled. Who else provides partners with a free online store that they can use at will?” Together with her colleague Maria Wolf, she runs a boutique in Schweinfurt, which has also amassed a loyal digital clientele. “Funky Staff’s service is super-fast – every problem is solved immediately, every delivery is on time,” the passion174

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ate retailer raves. “But the most important aspect is that the products are well-received, the fashion is on point, and our customers love the pieces.”

pact on frequency and turnover when new pictures are posted or new delivery dates are advertised,” says the fourth-generation owner of Modehaus Wörmann.

MADE IN ITALY

OUTGROWING ONESELF

“Funky Staff is on an unbelievably good trajectory,” says Axel Keisinger of Modehaus Wörmann in Bielefeld and Gütersloh. “Every single piece is manufactured exclusively in Italy. I consider the short delivery routes and the fact that only ordered products are actually manufactured to be highly sustainable. That aspect continues to gain relevance among customers.” He himself particularly appreciates Funky Staff’s retail-only approach: “The brand does not cooperate with large e-commerce platforms. On the contrary, it redirects turnover to smaller, owner-managed stores and their affiliated web shops. That is a powerful selling point, for sure. You can actually notice an im-

“Given that we are located on an island in the North Sea, the lockdown had an even more devastating effect on us,” says Silke Ennen of Moderaum Norderney. The store may have been cut off from tourist crowds, but – thanks to Swipe & Find – it was not cut off completely in terms of sales. “Preparing parcels has become daily routine. In some cases, we sell Funky Staff pieces before they even arrive at our store,” the dedicated fashion retailer reveals. “Funky Staff could have easily absorbed the online sales itself, but that is not how this brand operates. Uwe always insists that his label thrives when his retail partner thrive. Others could learn a thing or two from his mindset.”

WHAT'S THE STORY

Sportalm exhibits fashion sense and expertise in every product.

“The new mindset in our company and in all processes is paying dividends.”

Ulli Ehrlich, owner of Sportalm

SPORTALM

“WE HAVE A FINGER ON THE PULSE” How does the brand from Kitzbühel manage to move forward stronger despite challenging times? Because it relies on its own assets, both in terms of fashion and its production facility in Bulgaria, owner Ulli Ehrlich explains in our interview.

Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: Sportalm

Trachten and ski fashion are core brand elements. Both segments are particularly affected by the pandemic. Yet Sportalm remains successful.

Yes, we have been experiencing ups and downs lately. Fortunately, Sportalm Fashion was in the black in each of the past seasons affected by the pandemic. Now we are emerging from the 2022 pre-collection order phase with 20 percent growth, which means we have surpassed the sales of 2019 and 2020 by a significant margin.

How did you pull that off?

Our very athletic fashion statement is on point. We seem to have a finger on the pulse of the market. The fact that we stand for

cultivated yet comfortable clothing is a clear advantage. Another factor is that we are capable of delivering reliably, thanks to our own production in the EU country Bulgaria.

Our factory, which was built 13 years ago, is still the most modern in Bulgaria, also in terms of social working conditions. We represent a European-made collection with short delivery routes and pay great attention to retaining our expertise in-house. Our studio in Kitzbühel, where we employ 18 seamstresses, is also where we train future employees to ensure a transfer of knowledge to the next generation. And as far as I know, we are the only ski fashion brand that manufactures in Europe. Maintaining this level of performance in Europe pays dividends, especially as the boundaries between ski fashion and outerwear are becoming increasingly blurred.

How is the product evolving?

We transformed our product development some time ago, which benefits us now.

We design product groups independently, mainly because we have learned that the

market demands expertise beyond our core competence. That cannot be achieved when everyone is involved in everything. We are therefore all the more systematic in our collection, which has been reduced by a third.

Now every item has absolute justification.

You are also more focused in your sales activities.

We made digital ordering possible four years ago and continue to consolidate our strengths, for example by timing the showrooms’ order cycles so that we have to duplicate fewer collections. Sportalm Fashion now serves 329 customers in the GAS market, while the Ulli Ehrlich collection, which is more fashion-oriented, serves 188. We are now working on separate areas for both collections – for example at Kastner & Öhler, Breuninger, and P&C. This approach is showing promise already. Collaborating with retailers is particularly enjoyable at the moment!

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ESEMPLARE

“WE AIM TO BE AHEAD OF THE TIMES” Alessio Martorella is the son of Franco Martorella, founder and partner of Turin-­ based outerwear label Esemplare, and has been supporting the company in terms of marketing for several seasons. A conversation about the very exciting times that lie ahead.

Interview: Janaina Engelmann-Brothánek.

Photos: Esemplare

Alessio, Esemplare represents innovation, technology, and the future. What can we expect from the autumn/winter 2022/23 collection?

Alessio Martorella, Marketing Esemplare: For autumn/winter 2022/23, we have further developed many of our classic models and added new ones. Innovation is not only driven by the choice of certain materials or processes, but, in this collection, also very much by design. For example, the Ultralight line, which features our lightweight, extremely comfortable, and waterproof nylon, has undergone a major overhaul in terms of silhouettes and volume.

The Seam-taped line, which is characterised by its welded seams, has been designed with new shapes and patterns in mind, but, above all, also features new fabrics. Furthermore, we have launched another line featuring two new fabrics that spearhead the collection by virtue of special production processes, sustainability levels, and performance. The Mobility models have also been revamped, but that shall remain a surprise for now. Finally, we intend to intro176

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Sustainability aspects are particularly important to the outerwear specialist from Turin.

WHAT'S THE STORY

Innovation, technology, and a competitive edge: Esemplare relies on 3D design in the collection creation process.

duce a women’s collection that is completely new in terms of volume, shapes, and design, but shares the same technical features as the men’s collection. Naturally, there will also be exciting news regarding our 3D design developments.

What sets you apart from the other outerwear specialists?

Our approach, our expertise, and our 3D design. Esemplare is part of the Pattern Group, a market leader in designing outerwear, knitwear, and leather goods for renowned luxury brands. It goes without saying that our expertise in designing Esemplare jackets is based on world-class, ever-evolving craftsmanship, and that the technological innovation in products and processes employed by Pattern Group has equally as much influence on the brand. Our innovative, sustainable approach is also a key factor, as it allows us to track every step of the supply chain. Materials are always selected with great care, and we rely on Italian suppliers that are independently certified.

And finally, our 3D design combines sustainability and skill. We are capable of using raw materials efficiently, reducing material waste, and creating prototypes digitally. All this is additionally enriched by people with unique talents. We are different because we were already born different: We do not create and develop to match the pace of others – we aim to be ahead of the times.

What are your expectations for the international markets, and especially for the DACH region, in the immediate future?

Covid-19 has hit the fashion world particularly hard, especially in Europe. What we expect from the various markets is a fundamental change in end consumer behaviour. We believe that people will attach greater importance to environmental and social sustainability, as well as focus increasingly on quality over quantity.

And technology will play a fundamental role in all these developments. We will witness the emergence of many 3D garments and animations, collaborations between brands, and an increasing number of collections that are not bound to a single season, for example drops and capsules. The scenario is constantly changing and evolving in a chaotic yet consistent manner. We have high expectations for the DACH region, where we are already very satisfied with our performance, and we expect it to experience the same changes described above. style in progress

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BOGNER

OFF TO NEW HORIZONS 90 years of Bogner – the perfect occasion to briefly reminisce before immediately refocusing on the future. For Heinz Hackl, Barbara Holzer, and Konstantinos Balogiannis, product remains paramount.

Interview: Stephan Huber. Text: Nicoletta Schaper.

Photos: Bogner

Bogner looks very fresh as it celebrates its 90th anniversary. What has been accomplished in recent years?

Heinz Hackl, Co-CEO Bogner: As a team, we have launched many initiatives simultaneously and defined five strategic core topics. One project was, for example, the independent positioning of our two brands, Bogner and Fire+Ice. Building on that, the modernisation of the collection and further internationalisation, especially in the USA, APAC, and Russia, are key drivers. We have developed two very distinct brand images, which we consistently apply at all levels. Bogner combines ready-to-wear and active sportswear at the highest level to create “athluxury sports fashion”. Fire+Ice is autonomously positioned and will also offer functional sportswear in addition to its performance wear styles.

Back to the roots, so to speak?

Heinz Hackl: Our roots are strong and healthy.

Innovation and modernity have always been defining brand values. At the same time, however, it is a question of implementing these values in the here and now, and thus reaching today’s consumers in a rapidly changing global market.

One approach that we find very exciting involves capsules and collaborations with artists and other brands on an interdisciplinary level – beyond the scope of fashion.

Barbara Holzer, Director Design + Product at Bogner: These capsules and collaborations create value on many levels. Everyone involved evolves in the process, and a dynamic of its own emerges. Allow me to provide an example. In December 2021, we launched a brand collaboration between Fire+Ice and super-trendy US womenswear lifestyle brand LoveShackFancy, designed exclusively for the US market. At first glance, it seems an unusual combination of sporty func178

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Surprising and successful: the collaborative collection by Fire+Ice and LoveShackFancy was sold out immediately.

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Bogner merges ready-to-wear and active sports into athluxury sports fashion.

tionality and playful, flowery femininity.

But that is exactly the point. We always strive to surprise, yet still remain true to the brand. It is apparent that the customers enjoy such projects as much as we do.

The styles from the collaboration sold out in no time at all.

Clearly, then, an ideal solution to enthuse new, younger consumers?

Konstantinos Balogiannis, Director Global Wholesale at Bogner: It is also an intelligent approach to uniting globalisation and regionalism. Diverse cultures and codes are so important and thankfully cannot be equalised. Generation Z in particular, which is constantly exposed to marketing measures on all channels, picks out all the more selectively what it can identify with. It is a matter of community and affiliation – a question of establishing a genuine emotional connection to a brand or product. This differentiation harbours great potential.

Barbara Holzer: This is exactly the potential we strive to tap into. Everything we do must complement the brand on the one hand, but also surprise our customers on the other. In the market segment that Bogner competes in, arbitrariness is the last thing you can afford. That is 180

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why a clear concept of Bogner as an athluxury sports fashion brand serves as such an invaluable foundation.

Konstantinos Balogiannis: We are pursuing two key goals in parallel as the basis for our global sales strategy: international growth and brand building. The launch of a showroom in New York at the beginning of 2021 was a strong statement regarding our commitment to investing in a market that is so important to us. At the same time, by pushing pop-ups in triple-A locations in major cities, for example at Bergdorf Goodman, La Rinascente, or Browns London, we conveyed the message that Bogner and Fire+Ice are more than just active brands, that they are up and coming and successful brands in the athluxury sports fashion and performance sportswear segments. Naturally, a key pillar of this strategy is China, where we will open around 80 of our own stores over the next five years through our newly founded joint venture with Bosideng.

These plans will be supported by powerful marketing measures. This will certainly also have a positive effect on our already established presence in Japan and South Korea.

While the name Bogner continues to enjoy a high reputation in international markets, the image in the DACH market is, to put it delicately, somewhat outdated. How can that be remedied?

Konstantinos Balogiannis: Although globalisation remains a top priority and the collection will be aligned accordingly, the DACH market is, of course, very dear to us. Barbara was absolutely right in saying that everything we do must ultimately align with the brand, and we are convinced that both the globalisation and capsule strategies will have a positive impact on the DACH market. This is why we constantly evaluate our partnerships and the brand environment to see how they contribute to our strategy.

Barbara Holzer: We intend to resolutely continue down this path in line with our claim “Off to New Horizons”. To celebrate our anniversary, we are launching a very special capsule, entitled Frozen Riviera, for the autumn/winter 2022 season.

It organically combines both worlds that Bogner represents – ready-to-wear and active sports. And in doing so, we are moving towards the future of the brand, in which there should and will no longer be any separation between these worlds.

P REMI UM LAMBSKI N www.wunderfell.com

WHAT'S THE STORY

A rich heritage does not always guarantee a successful future. That is why Jet Set does not rest on its own myth, but continues to develop it for the hybrid consumer of tomorrow. CEO Thomas Jaeger and Sales Director Crispin Spindler explain how it all works.

Interview: Stephan Huber. Photos: Jet Set

JET SET

SEXINESS FOR GEN Z

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Why the comeback, Thomas?

Thomas Jaeger, CEO Jet Set: Every now and then, there is such a thing as the perfect moment. That is exactly what Jet Set is experiencing right now. Many things that made this brand so outstanding and successful are currently regaining a decisive importance. After all, Jet Set kind of co-invented the link between function and fashion in 1969. When we confidently proclaim the brand promise “From Slope to Downtown” today, we simply proclaim our DNA – implemented for today’s consumer, but not only for the snow and mountains. We remain a stylish ski fashion brand, that is our core competence.

Beyond that, we will offer luxury sportswear for the whole year.

What makes Jet Set sexy for Gen Z? Thomas Jaeger: We benefit from a number of positive factors in this respect. On the one hand, skiing as a lifestyle has long since emancipated itself from the slopes. Nowadays, of course, function and performance are important. But at the same time, multi-purpose is equally important. A look should not restrict you, but it should

WHAT'S THE STORY

The brand is legendary: Jet Set.

suit your individual style and attitude to life.

Our unique design language, with its typical and polarising sexiness, combined with a truly uncompromising approach to quality, allows us to attract young, international consumers.

Crispin Spindler: This is exactly the feedback we receive from partners like Brown's, Mytheresa, Lodenfrey, and Net-A-Porter.

Buyers are looking for brands that implement luxury sportswear authentically and bring very specific values to the table. The beauty is that the brand is actually completely unspoiled.

That is why its rich heritage, of which we are so proud, is not a burden for us. It is an inspiration.

So, ultimately, Jet Set also believes product is key?

Thomas Jaeger: That is especially true for Jet Set. And it applies holistically. We need to address issues like sustainability and responsibility proactively. They must be as much a part of our self-image as our look. Our customers expect that, but, above all, it is our own aspiration. That is why Jet Set is now cruelty-free, and we are on the right track in terms of sustainability – from sourcing to production, most of which takes place in Italy.

You mentioned some flagship retail partners. What does that tell us about Jet Set’s positioning?

Crispin Spindler: If we wish to be exclusive, then we must, of course, reflect this claim credibly in our sales policy. We strive to collaborate exclusively with the top names on all challenges and internationally. Depth is more important than breadth in this context.

Yet we are aware that Jet Set will only achieve the ambitious goals we have set ourselves with strong retail partners.

Heritage as inspiration: an it-piece from 1969, reinterpreted for Gen Z.

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Hans Taubenberger manages the Toni Sailer brand in an unagitated, quiet, yet highly successful manner. The customer list is impressive.

TONI SAILER

“THIS IS COUTURE” Toni Sailer has done everything the right way: solid, family-oriented structures coupled with forward-looking supply chain management allow the luxury ski brand to supply top retailers and e-commerce players worldwide.

The next step is the launch of an urban collection.

Text: Martina Müllner-Seybold. Photos: Toni Sailer

It was around seventeen years ago that Hans Taubenberger, after careful consideration, travelled to Kitzbühel to turn a legend of his youth into a high-end brand via his company Fashionpool. The journey has been a resounding success: Toni Sailer is now listed as a ski-oriented collection in all the top stores in the Alps. On an international level, the customer list reads like a who‘s who of alpine lifestyle in more than 25 countries.

The line is represented wherever people wish to have fun on the slopes in fashionable, functional outfits – and where the focus is on quality.

BEYOND THE SKI RESORTS

The brand derives a great deal of pleasure from its premium partners in ski resorts and cities. Now, however, the Toni Sailer brand intends to conquer new terrain with an urban collection. “What we do in skiwear 184

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Minimalist, clean, contemporary: Toni Sailer’s urban collection brings its expertise to the cities.

is couture. A great deal of development and dexterity goes into the workmanship,” the brand owner explains.

The designs and specifications of the styles are so highly developed that, in some cases, sample studios are commissioned for serial production.

“Because that is where the real specialists are, the seamstresses and sewers who know how to handle these expensive and highly specialised fabrics.” The new urban collection taps into this pool of expertise and translates it into clean, monochrome styles that still convey the brand’s DNA. “We are benefiting from two trends: the outerwear look has become much more athletic, and customers really love true hybrid styles. They enjoy jackets that can be worn in an urban environment and on the ski slopes alike. The urban collection is intended to expand the product range for Toni Sailer fans. We aim to live up to our claim of capturing the zeitgeist and redefining fashion trends with styles that can be worn every day.”

The collection is due to be delivered to retailers in July.

We can now look forward to Toni Sailer being available in stores all year round. style in progress

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L E A DING IN A NEW FUTURE You have to be a “hopemaker”.

Be aware that three-year plans can only be guardrails at best. In between, you have to manage the unforeseen with confidence. Never alone, but always at eye level with the rare talents who no longer want to be tied down, but captivated.

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L e a d i ng i n a n e w f u t u r e

WHAT DOES OPTIMAL LEADERSHIP ENTAIL? “We’ve always done it that way” is no longer a viable option. The past two years have demonstrated that it is time to fundamentally question rigid structures and traditional management strategies. Which corporate structure is best suited to deal with current challenges and uncertainties?

And how can one succeed in fostering the talents of employees to the fullest?

Text: Janaina Engelmann-Brothánek, Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: Interviewees

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L e a d i ng i n a n e w f u t u r e

ALLOW LEEWAY Martina Schmidl, CEO of Ayms

How can leadership realise the full potential of employees?

By realising that this is not about simply getting a job done, but about setting up a team in a manner that allows everyone to optimise performance within the scope of their individual strengths. This approach is the essence of start-up spirit. There are no rigid structures, everyone can contribute, and we set new standards together. My credo is to focus on passion, not money.

How does one assemble the perfect team?

As a leader, I need to be two steps ahead and spare no efforts. Embodying this open culture allows me to identify which team members have the right mindset.

Is it still relevant to think in five-year plans?

Planning and strategy remain paramount. Yet I prefer to speak of visions, for the implementation of which absolute flexibility is indispensable. Thinking solely in terms of digital or stationary distribution channels is outdated. That also applies to work: leeway and flexibility are super important. Motivation and appreciation follow naturally.

LEAN STRUCTURE

Alexander Socher, Managing Director of Moon GmbH “Generally speaking, the more challenging the times, the tighter management should be in order to make decisions flexibly and quickly. As newcomers, we continue to focus on a lean structure with a management that has a positive attitude towards the future and change. I am not promoting blind optimism, but one needs to believe in the success of one’s product and in the relevance of what one is doing. That is the only path to success.”

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FUN CULTURE MEETS PERFORMANCE CULTURE Angelika Schindler-Obenhaus, CEO of Gerry Weber

“Modern companies ought to be more like start-ups than old tankers. To this end, we need flat hierarchies, short channels, lean structures, and transparency. As a manager, I must exemplify the mindset that I expect from my staff, with an appreciative approach in an environment that allows for errors in order to encourage employees to make independent decisions. In an atmosphere where everyone can contribute ideas, everyone can manifest their full potential. Due to transparent, direct communication, our employees always know where we stand, where we want to be, and what needs to be done by whom to get there. A values survey, workshops for managers, a mobile working concept, and an informal culture across all levels are but a few examples of how fun and performance can dovetail perfectly.”

AGILITY STEMS FROM RESILIENCE AND INNOVATION

Alessandra Chiara Guffanti, owner of Showroom Guffanti, President of SMI Kids, mentor of the CNMI (Camera Nazionale Moda Italiana) education programme “I consider agility to be a balancing act between resilience and innovation.

The only way an entrepreneur can competently manage the complexity of today’s markets is by maintaining a dynamic relationship between its basic principles and innovations. Every single business unit needs to be in continual dialogue with external experts who are always up to date, can compare the company with others, and keep it competitive in all aspects, from finances to market strategies. In addition, one should develop cross-departmental training curricula. After all, a team stays fresh and up to date through the involvement of trainees from schools and universities, who encourage reflection and rethinking of work processes and structures in a constructive way.”

GOOD COACHING

Filippo Colnaghi, founder and CEO of Traiano Milano “A good leader is like a good coach. He has a clear vision and expresses it by identifying, emphasising, and embracing the best and lesser qualities of his players. I believe that good leadership is never based on standard management methods that apply to everyone, but rather provides each employee with an opportunity to maximise their individual potential. As soon as the team is in place, and clear and specific goals have been set, it should be given free rein. This allows the team to take responsibility and find new impulses to push the company to victory. When a team is capable of managing its own efforts, it becomes easier to deal with unpredictable situations and work in a solution-oriented manner.”

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Convincing in his role as CEO: Maximilian Böck.

Courage and creativity define the collection; this appeals to a younger target group for Marc O’Polo, especially among new customers.

MARC O’POLO

UNRESTRICTED CREATIVITY

Maximilian Böck assumed leadership at Marc O’Polo in exceptional circumstances. In an interview with style in progress, he explains why the generational change went so smoothly and how he intends to achieve his ambitious goals. Interview: Stephan Huber. Photos: Marc O’Polo

Y

ou assumed leadership responsibilities at Marc O’Polo at a historic turning point for the industry.

Did that make it more fun or add pressure?

Maximilian Böck, CEO of Marc O’Polo AG: The virus itself is obviously no fun at all, but the manner in which we have developed and grown together, especially in the face of this challenge, is absolutely fantastic. Marc O’Polo has developed real momentum, which is reflected in our excellent retail performance – on all channels. Brand and product are completely in sync, and the company itself functions like a strong team. This shows that a great deal of good has been accomplished in the last few years. As a result, we were optimally prepared for this exceptional situation.

You, as an individual, symbolise generational change.

What does that mean for the company?

We have always been a young company, both in terms of our self-image and more specifically in terms of the average age of our employees. A 32-year-old CEO is hardly a cul-

ture shock, but rather an almost organic fit for our development pattern. What I bring to the table is a kind of start-up mentality. In other words, a willingness to experiment: to push ideas, to adapt – or even discard – them when necessary. We are very agile in all topics. We plan and implement swiftly. What I find particularly exciting, by the way, is that our clientele is gradually getting younger – especially new customers. That constitutes an important milestone. For me personally, this is the reward for the courage and creativity we exhibit in the product. As important as data is in many areas, design must have the freedom and self-confidence to transcend it.

And the necessary backing…

That too, but in this respect corporate management understands this necessity and shares the same vision.

Speaking of self-confidence. You have defined ambitious goals for yourself and Marc O’Polo.

We strive to crack the turnover threshold of 1 billion Euros in the medium term. That is indeed ambitious, but we are on the right track – especially with internationalisation, the expansion of menswear, and Marc O’Polo Denim making the most important contributions.

What about specialised retailers?

Absolutely! A close partnership with retailers is an essential part of our sales and growth strategy. Here, too, we are seeing that the transformation of product and positioning is having a measurable effect. We have plenty to offer our partners. style in progress

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She looks to the future in a progressive manner – and has ambitious goals to positively influence it in her various leadership positions.

“WE NEED TO NURTURE TALENT”

Stephanie Phair, one of those incredibly well-connected protagonists of our industry, is capable of setting key developments in motion via several levers at the same time. In her capacity as Chairman of the British Fashion Council (BFC), Chief Customer Officer at Farfetch, and member of the Moncler supervisory board, she leaves a lasting mark on the image of female leadership in the fashion business – especially through her dedication to versatility. Text: Isabel Faiss. Photos: Farfetch

W

e observe that the future of our industry is largely driven by women in leadership positions. You are the best example. But where do we stand on equal opportunities in our industry?

I think that equal opportunity within the industry, especially opportunities that allow women with different experiences and from different backgrounds to add value to our industry, is much needed. It gives women a chance to explore so many different facets of the fashion industry that they might not have even been aware of previously, but when utilised, can help shape it positively.

The British Fashion Council primarily promotes new talent and designers. How have their selection criteria

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and requirements changed with regard to diversity, equality, and inclusion?

Now, more than ever, it is important to champion talent and to support our emerging and young businesses that lead the way in environmental and community impact, while increasing the diversity of the talent pool. Our aim is to improve equality, equity, and opportunity so that the fashion industry remains open to all. Some of the changes we have made to the BFC’s talent and education initiatives programme to ensure diversity include, to name a few, the monitoring of panel judges, monitoring the diversity of applicants, and developing an outreach strategy to make sure young people from disadvantaged backgrounds have access to scholarship opportunities.

Where do you identify the greatest potential that we really should not waste?

The world of fashion must take the lead in behaving responsibly towards reducing the carbon footprint. The BFC has signed up to the Race to Zero and is encouraging others to do the same. The BFC has a critical role to play, acting as the initiator of change across actors in the ecosystem. It is uniquely placed to shape policy and industry regulations, particularly through dialogue with government and industry, as well as all other stakeholders in fashion’s ecosystem. To that end, the BFC has also launched the Circular Fashion Ecosystem, a vital report that sets a practical approach to reach a target state for a circular fashion economy in the UK. Farfetch is also committed to investing in sustainable solutions that allow our customers to enjoy the fashion they love whilst being mindful of our industry‘s impact on the planet.

Farfetch has set ambitious sustainability goals for 2030, in addition to offering customers a range of conscious and pre-owned pieces to shop from, repair services to extend the life of the pieces they no longer need and a donation service that allows you to rehome unwanted clothing, whilst raising money for charity.

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AN EVOLVING SYSTEM

Alberto Zia, Managing Director of Pin 1876 “Modern leadership can no longer be reduced to a single person – the ‘leader’ – who determines the guidelines and makes decisions alone. We should rather refer to an organised system that constantly expands and evolves. This is the foundation for the type of organisation that selects employees according to criteria such as qualifications, skills, experience, and willingness to innovate. It is based on meritocracy, meaning it can shoulder more responsibility. Here, hierarchies are reduced to zero and decision-making competence is shared among all employees, enabling the company to be more agile and prepared for future challenges.”

MORE FLEXIBILITY Mattia d’Orlando, Export Manager of Myths and White Sand

THE SECRET IS LISTENING

Silvia Mazzoli, founder and Creative Director of Otto D’Ame “I have always been convinced that the secret of modern and brilliant leadership lies in the art of listening. As a leader, I have a desire to hear the opinion of everyone I have appointed to develop a particular project. It is important to ensure all employees feel involved in the processes and are fully engaged. Our work is teamwork and, especially in our field, it is important to be transversal in everything we do. Rather than merely performing a simple task, the idea is to interact with team members in order to build progressively sturdier human relationships. That is the big secret.”

Does an entrepreneur need to inspire hope in employees?

He must be a realist, even more so than an optimist. The pandemic has shown that we must think positively yet remain realistic. This involves addressing unpleasant truths when necessary.

Is it still sensible to think in five-year plans given the current unpredictability?

Planning remains vital, but maybe in three-year steps. We need more flexibility and, at times, clear decisions from above that allow us to act swiftly.

What is the best way to discover and promote talent?

I always tell my employees: “Don’t merely explain the problem, offer me your proposed solution.” That is the best way to recognise their potential.

CONVEYING SOLIDARITY, PASSION, AND DEDICATION

Federica Fremder, Sales & Marketing Manager of FPM Fabbrica Pelletterie Milano “FPM is a family business, and our structure is based on solidarity, passion, and dedication. We consider it important that every employee understands that he/she contributes to the success of the company. Challenges are overcome by working together. Without doubt, a pronounced female component is crucial for a relaxed climate in which different needs and opinions are acknowledged; it releases positive energy. The last two years in particular have demonstrated the importance of positive thinking in overcoming severe crises.”

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STRELLSON

“IT IS TIME FOR A NEW MANAGEMENT CULTURE” Market shake-ups lead to a reset at Strellson: Marino Edelmann acting as Managing Brand Director has rejuvenated the brand’s team as a whole.

We sat down with him to find out what this means and what it requires in terms of leadership.

Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: Strellson

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Strellson has sharpened its fashion profile from a more customer-oriented point of view.

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new generation is emerging at Strellson.

Many young people have advanced to critical positions within the team. Does that have an effect on corporate culture as a whole?

Absolutely. We work together based on very close and open exchange, in a flatter hierarchy. This creates a new cohesion, a new energy. Young people wish to be motivated and led differently, and I myself would like to lead differently – in a manner that allows the team to feel comfortable and to enjoy what they are doing.

That develops a motivation for self-determination, which leads us in the right direction.

What is important to younger employees?

Work must have a purpose that goes beyond the idea of economic turnover. This goes hand in hand with the subject of sustainability, which is often encouraged by the younger generation. Given that Strellson is a brand that loves nature, we have launched the “Wear to Care” sustainability seal, which we plan to expand further. Once there is a sense of purpose, everyone wants to get involved. This creates something that can reignite the brand.

What does that mean for the product?

We are rethinking many things, in a rejuvenated and more customer-oriented manner. Within the collection, this entails more fashion and more total look to connect our outerwear and ready-to-wear pillars. We have developed a digital 3D capsule for the summer as well, which is also distributed digitally,

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WHAT'S THE STORY

Flat hierarchy, close exchange: Marino Edelmann relies on motivational tools to lead his team to self-determined success.

or alternatively we develop new drops with customers. The market has changed dramatically and so has our business model. It means we have to experiment more, without fear of failing. I might approach some things differently than my employees, but by giving them space, something that takes the brand forward can emerge.

And in terms of sales?

With Julian Dangel for the DACH region and Tobias Duck for export operations, we have appointed two young employees from within our own ranks. They have a desire to get things done and a fresh view of the brand; they are close to our customers and sales structure. The feedback they provide is absolutely essential for us. What is happening in the market and what conclusions can be drawn to take the next step for the brand? Our industry changes fundamentally every few weeks, and you have to remain hungry to deal with that.

Is this new approach already paying off?

80 new points of sale in the DACH region speak for themselves. In addition, we have managed to secure floor space at larger accounts and are receiving extremely positive feedback online and in our own stores. Russia and France are also developing positively. However, there is still a way to go until we are where we want to be. There is plenty of catching up to do, especially in a time without trade shows and opportunities to meet in person. Now we are eager to show what we have been working on face-to-face. We still have plenty of ideas and plans. style in progress

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Undisputedly strong in Italy, RRD now wants to finally make a breakthrough in terms of exports.

A passionate entrepreneur: Roberto Ricci turned his one-man show into a company.

RRD

CONVEYING PASSION

Roberto Ricci is the founder and owner of highly successful Italian sports and fashion brand RRD (Roberto Ricci Design). The former professional surfer and windsurf board shaper plans to further expand the fashion line and continue the internationalisation of the company.

Interview: Janaina Engelmann-Brothánek. Photos: RRD

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oberto, RRD has been around for more than thirty years. How has the brand developed?

I launched RRD in 1988 when I shaped my first windsurfing board. Right from the outset, it was my intention to sell matching outfits, so shirts and shorts, alongside the sports equipment. New items were added over the years. It started off as a one-man show really. My aim was to accompany and equip the windsurfing pros on the PBA/PWA Tour. Today, we count approximately 50 employees in-house. That number swells to more than 100 if you include our external staff. We now represent a total look for women and men. We will also soon be relocating to new headquarters. We are currently renovating an old textile factory here in Grosseto and will then have around 16,000 square metres to ourselves. I would say the brand has developed quite well.

When did you make the transition from a one-man show to a company?

I remember that leap very clearly. It happened in December 1993. Back then, I was shaping surfboards in a small workshop under my parents’ house and one of the ovens caught fire – everything went up in flames within

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a few minutes. It was a huge shock, but I decided to get serious that same night. I went to the bank on the next day and took out a loan of 200 million Lire, backed by a guarantee provided by my father. I invested 150 million in sponsoring Anders Bringdal (then number two in the international windsurfing rankings), 40 million in a new workshop, and left 10 million in the bank as collateral.

That is how I became an entrepreneur.

How do you define leadership?

I myself do not wish to be defined as a leader. I am, however, a passionate entrepreneur. I love what I do, and I try to convey that sentiment. I want my employees to be involved in the processes, to experience and create things as a team. What we manufacture is not simple material, it represents a way of life that needs to be embraced. That is why I try to exemplify important values, especially to younger generations. Know-how needs to be shared; mistakes are important. Be brave, harmonise with nature, and much more.

International expansion is high on the agenda. Which strategy are you planning to pursue?

What is very interesting is that the surfboards conquered the international markets first, while the RRD collections first gained popularity in Italy. Our aim is to boost RRD exports, for which we have hired a completely new team.

Internationalisation always requires investment, and we are now ready and well-positioned to do just that. In terms of our collections, our aim is to increase the contribution of exports to total sales from 15% to 50% over the next few years. France is already responding really well after one season. And I am sure we can perform even better in Germany, too.

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Chris Wang is a man on a mission. After Asia and Europe, he hopes to conquer the USA with his Duno jacket brand.

DUNO

“OPEN-MINDEDNESS AND FLEXIBILITY"

Chris Wang, CEO of Duno, is a mere 33 years young and has been at the helm of the Tuscan jacket brand since 2014. In 2021, Duno reported a 5 percent increase in turnover compared to 2019. How does a young entrepreneur guide a fashion label through good and bad times? A conversation about discipline, family, and teamwork. Interview: Janaina Engelmann-Brothànek. Photo: Duno

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hris, how did it feel to be CEO over the last two years?

It has been tough, no question. It required a great deal of patience and persistence from us. I remember the announcement of the first total lockdown as if it happened yesterday. As soon as businesses were allowed to start working again, we immediately rallied the team.

We had to keep distance and wear masks, but we were all willing and eager to start where we had left off two months earlier. We knew that customer service and product quality would be crucial at that moment, and we worked hard on these aspects.

Is that the secret to brand success these days: product and service? Is it really that simple?

Yes, these are our pillars. Our product is a blend of Italian design, years of experience in the outerwear segment, highest quality materials, and a highly efficient production setup in my home country China. We have also optimised our service. For us, customers always come first. We tried to accommodate them and strengthen partnerships, even in the most trying of times. It was definitely worth it.

On which values do you rely as a next-generation leader? Family values, roots, or something else entirely?

My family always stands right behind me – right next to me, in fact. They have always been there for me, and they were my most fervent supporters when I made the leap from manufacturer to brand owner in 2014. My parents attached enormous importance to education and discipline and ensured that I was able to benefit from a western education without forgetting my own culture. I spent my entire school career in Europe and America, but I visited China for at least three months every summer from a very young age to improve my language skills and experience the culture.

Is that perhaps your unique asset: This intercultural diversity?

I never really thought about that. But yes, I do believe that a multicultural background leads to open-mindedness and flexibility. You are used to observing things from different perspectives and may develop a quicker eye, keener intuition, and heightened willingness to listen.

And, of course, being multilingual helps facilitate smooth communication at all levels – with staff and clients alike.

What dreams does a young leader like yourself have?

I only recently realised one: our very own Duno store in Osaka. I think our next step will take us to the US. Surely that is the biggest dream of all, no? style in progress

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TIME TO SHATTER THE GLASS CEILING?

ZOOMING IN

What role do Italian women play in today’s domestic and international fashion business? What about female leadership in Italy? Is the gender pay gap discussion still relevant? What influence does the “female touch” have on design? We discussed these questions with four women in the Italian fashion community. A conversation with Ludovica Braglia (sustainable business advisor and author at School of WRÅD), Valeria Caffagni (Head of Business Development EMEA Goldwin Japan), Daniela Holnsteiner (International Sales Director Save the Duck) and Cinzia Macchi (founder and designer LaMilanesa).

Interview: Janaina Engelmann-Brothánek. Illustration: Simona Gala Baronti

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t feels like much has happened in Italy in our industry over the last decade: more women in CEO positions, more female designers. Digital entrepreneurship has opened up new opportunities for smart women, just think of Chiara Ferragni. In short, women are no longer merely fashion consumers, but active players both on stage and behind the scenes. Nevertheless, Italy remains the country with the highest gender pay gap in Europe, according to the Global Gender Gap Report 2021. The lockdowns have resulted in a step backwards for many women: housework and care duties are often reassigned to women in what is now called “smart working” environments. What is needed to ensure Italian women can finally assert their claim of leadership?

On the one hand, studies indicate that Italy ranks last in Europe in terms of gender equality – on the other hand, the prevailing personal impression is that much has been achieved and there is still more to come. What is your assessment?

Daniela Holnsteiner, International Sales Director of Save The Duck: I am originally from Germany and grew up with a mentality that makes no distinction between men and women. My mother, who was an entrepreneur herself, made one thing very clear to me when I was still a child: “Daniela, one thing is incredibly important. Make sure you are never dependent on a man.” When I arrived in Italy 18 years ago and started my first job here, it was something of a culture shock. I was one of a few women who was trusted with more senior positions. I used to sense that my origin might have been a factor. It seemed as if I, as a German, was given more credit than my female Italian counterparts. The situation is, of course, totally different today. Much has changed in the fashion industry. As a BCorp company, we attach great importance to equality and our statistics reflect this commitment. Save The Duck boasts 80% female staff, especially in important positions such as our CMO, our Sustainability Manager, or mine.

Valeria Caffagni, Head of Business Development EMEA of Goldwin Japan and founder of Blue Hills Studio: It is undeniable that much has changed in recent years. The “Legge n. 120/2011” and its amendments, for example, stipulate that 30% of employees in both listed and state-owned companies must be female.

In addition, Italy has made great strides in terms of equality with the new “Legge Gribaudo” bill, which was unanimously adopted in parliament on the 13th of October 2021. The question is, however, whether these stipulations are actually taken seriously by companies or merely used for cosmetic purposes? We are all aware that a woman always presents a company with the “risk” of potential motherhood. The issue of conceiving children always comes up, even in job interviews. That is not only illegal, but also anachronistic. The discussion should revolve around quality instead of quantity of work. If a woman with a family can spend less time in

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the office and yet still deliver high-quality input, why would she not deserve the same pay and recognition as her male colleagues? At the end of the day, it is the performance that counts, not the hours spent in front of the PC. Cinzia Macchi, founder and designer of LaMilanesa: I am glad that Valeria raised the issue of motherhood, because despite being anachronistic, it is still very much part of our mentality. I have witnessed young female applicants volunteer the information that they are in committed relationships and wish to have children. I never asked them and never would, but they felt it was important to “warn” me. If motherhood was actually a problem, I would not have been able to base my business on women. At LaMilanesa, we are all women. Even our sales director, the only man, is actually a “signorina”.

That is how he defines himself. (laughs) But joking aside, my experiences in the professional world were not all that comfortable either. I started off outside the fashion world. Before I founded LaMilanesa, I worked in the field of advanced training, which is a mostly male-dominated terrain. I was overlooked at times. That hurt. I feel more at home in fashion, where I see women play a different role. Let’s face it, the whole fashion industry is based on women: from production to wardrobe. It is absurd that we are even still discussing motherhood and gender pay gaps, especially as fashion would not exist without us.

How about you, Ludovica? How do you and your generation (Z) view the gender discussion? Could you share your experience?

Ludovica Braglia, sustainable business advisor and author at School of WRÅD: I agree wholeheartedly, especially with the fact one should focus on the quality of work, performance, and skills of the person in question, rather than on their inherent attributes or background.

This is very important to our generation, and we are willing to fight tooth and nail for it. I still encountered difficulties at first, not only as a woman in general, but even more so as a young woman. I was born and raised in the industry. Thanks to my father and his company (Brama Group), I genuinely know many people from this world. When I decided to start my own business, I was forced to realise that Italy not only has a gender gap, but also a generation gap. Everything ran smoothly as long as I operated under my father’s wing, as his daughter. But when I started my own business as an independent young woman and dedicated myself to environmental protection in the fashion industry, it was not easy to be taken seriously. The issue of sustainability is a rather difficult one in itself, because any kind of effort is still regarded as voluntary. We are “kind people” striving to save the oceans, so we should do it for free. In other words, I struggle on a daily basis to be accepted by the older generation – not only as a woman and a young person, but also to be paid for my work. We, as Generation Z, have internalised these issues, but we constantly have to fight against older leadership structures.

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Leadership is an excellent cue. What about female leadership?

Daniela Holnsteiner: There are definitely major differences between female and male leadership, but I would not go so far as to say that one is better than the other. Sure, us women tend to be more sensitive to some issues, perhaps we invest more in team building and harmony, but we are not all the same. I have encountered great male leaders in my career. Now, with Nicolas Bargi, I am blessed to be working with an example of incredible leadership that inspires me. Equally, I have met women in high positions who constantly engaged in power struggles. It all depends on the personality of the leaders.

Cinzia Macchi: I have encountered men who have taught me much, as well as women who offered me no support at all. It is not a question of gender, but of people. Today, we have to ensure equal opportunities for all.

Valeria Caffagni: The issue is intelligence and sensitivity, rather than feminine or masculine. Women may have greater empathy and understanding when it comes to the strict separation of work and private life, but I would not go so far as to say that female leadership is superior. Today, it is more about creating structures and teams that collaborate well, support each other, and strive to achieve a common goal. Nevertheless, it ultimately remains a question of mentality. I am currently working with a Japanese company, and in Japan you tend to see even fewer women in C-level positions than in Italy, but the situation there is definitely evolving and improving. However, I believe that men should also be invited to the table to address such a complex issue. It is a wonderful opportunity to discuss this with such inspiring women, but the issue will only be internalised if the other side is also offered the opportunity to get involved and an exchange takes place. It should not be a struggle.

Ludovica Braglia: I believe that the differences between women and men should be considered as added value.

As in nature, diversity can create wonderful ecosystems – feminine and masculine do not have to be polar opposites. I guess my question is whether women actually enjoy the same opportunities as men to show their abilities? Naturally, this does not only apply to women, but also to minorities, as Cinzia suggested earlier.

In my opinion, opening up equal opportunities for women and men in Italy should start with fundamental improvements to the country’s cultural DNA. In other words, equality should already be addressed and established in schools and institutions. Do you agree?

Ludovica Braglia: I am convinced that we still have a long way to go in Italy. We need a new balance.

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How­ever, we need to take it one step at a time, otherwise our progress will not be sustainable. It goes without saying that there should be no differences between girls and boys in schools. Children should grow up knowing that they are not the same, but that they enjoy equal rights.

Cinzia Macchi: Exactly, I find this aspect extremely important. You should learn from an early age that we are all equal, there is no such thing as the stronger sex.

That is why I am involved in an aid organisation here in Milan that visits schools in hot spots and educates, which also includes explaining equal rights. To put it bluntly, not all children know that a woman is not confined to the kitchen and needs to follow men’s orders.

Daniela Holnsteiner: Schools can make a big difference, but that is not enough. We, as the new generation of parents, have to advocate change and serve as role models for our children. I frequently draw comparisons between Germany and Italy, and unfortunately, I still observe huge differences. It was even more noticeable during the lockdown. In my Italian circle of friends, far more mothers were forced to stay at home with the children than in my German circle of acquaintances. There, the division of working time and childcare between the parents was mostly fair.

Valeria Caffagni: Yes, the statistics speak volumes. In 2020, 42,000 parents (of children between 0 and 3 years old) lost their jobs in Italy, 77% of them are women (source: La Stampa). We remain at the bottom of the World Economic Forum's Global Gender Gap Report, 63rd out of 156, making us one of the lowest ranking European countries.

Ludovica Braglia: This is exactly what we are attempting to change with the School of WRÅD. We strive to provide all young people with equal learning opportunities, to put everyone on an equal footing, and to ensure that everyone starts from the same baseline.

The School of WRÅD is the first digital platform in Italy that is accessible to everyone. You can download courses on sustainable fashion in several languages, including Farsi and Hindi. This is our idea of how to democratise education, eliminating the distinction of whether it is aimed at men or women, the poor or the rich.

Talking about sustainability, it is interesting to see that many pioneers on an international level are women. Why is that so?

Ludovica Braglia: Sustainability stems from empathy, from the desire to respect and listen to the other. By that I mean other people, nature, and so on. Yes, it may well be a topic that is internalised and advanced more by women. Men usually grew up with the idea of doing style in progress

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business. Business equals profit, and profit alone, simply is not sustainable. This is, however, a misconception: sustainability is no longer a mere ideology – fair profit is possible.

Cinzia Macchi: LaMilanesa is the perfect example of how female sustainability and fairness work – everything we do is sustainable, made by women for women. It requires hard work, and we are immensely proud of what we are doing. Last year, we teamed up with Banca Intesa, Caritas, and the Vatican to launch the “Fabbricatrici di Sogni” project. We train women for jobs in the fashion industry. They learn to sew, tailor, and much more, thereby laying the foundation for a long-term income of their own. The aim of the initiative is to support women from socially disadvantaged backgrounds on their way to financial independence.

Daniela Holnsteiner: At Save The Duck, we have spent years analysing how the topic of sustainability is accepted, internalised, and implemented by women and men, and have discovered that it is not only an issue of gender, but also of age. From around the age of 35, sustainability is primarily a female topic. Women want to know how, where, and by whom a product is made, while men are less interested in such aspects. Under the age of 35, on the other hand, fairness and ecology are universally important concerns perceived as equally relevant by both genders. The younger generations are far more aware of environmental protection.

Do independent women design different fashion?

Do we need more male and female designers, especially in Italian fashion, who design for a more modern image of women?

Valeria Caffagni: Women have always been in the majority in the field of design and are now occupying increasingly visible positions, even if it remains difficult to see women in leading creative positions. There are female creative directors who have made a real difference and introduced new approaches – consider Matia Grazia Chiuri, the first female creative director of Dior and thus the first ever Italian woman to head a French house. She introduced “sportiness” to the women’s collections, as well as political and feminist visions. We have to acknowledge that today’s fashion is a highly political territory and touches sensitive topics, which are primarily raised by new generations. Overall, just think of the body positivity movement: the image of women is no longer limited to that of the 1990s and 2000s Victoria’s Secret approach, which has recently undergone a very strong and absolutely necessary paradigm and image shift, in line with a new philosophy of inclusivity and diversity under the pressure of the scandals that have emerged. Fashion in general has become more women-friendly, the cuts are wider and more comfortable to wear. But here, too, one should avoid generalisations. The collections are still created in line with 202

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the style of the respective brands and fashion houses, regardless of the gender of the designer – if it even still makes sense to talk about genders. Consider how much the archetypical Gucci woman and man have changed at the hands of Alessandro Michele.

Cinzia Macchi: Yes, I also observe much more lightness and freedom in the collections. Today’s woman is free from predetermined norms, that is certain. That also explains the success of gender fluid or unisex collections.

Daniela Holnsteiner: Yes, allow me to briefly return to the topics of leadership and freedom. Take fashion in politics, for example. In the past, female politicians had to dress as masculine as possible in order to be taken seriously, like Angela Merkel. Today, designers aim to dress the next chancellor or first lady as feminine as possible to convey power. I agree with Valeria that it is not about a feminine or masculine touch. The more important aspects are sensitivity and the ability to foresee the evolution of women, to implement it accordingly in the collections.

Last question: What do we wish for the next generation of women hoping to gain a foothold in our industry?

Cinzia Macchi: The upcoming female generation should be free and be themselves without having to make major compromises. I hope this generation can thrive and has the courage to do so.

Ludovica Braglia: I think that the problem we are discussing is not limited to the fashion industry. On the contrary, I believe that we are actually working in a very female-friendly industry, not least because our sense of aesthetics is irreplaceable. Nevertheless, it is still important to demand respect, be unafraid to speak our minds, and address issues that do not sit right. We need to make our voices heard, no matter what the industry.

Valeria Caffagni: I hope that a talented young woman like Ludovica, who has such energy and passion, will find unlimited opportunities to prove her skills. No young woman should have to overcome barriers that are unrelated to her abilities. Their careers should be defined by challenges that are just that – challenges that allow them to grow, not obstacles placed in their path because they are women.

Daniela Holnsteiner: It is very simple. I hope that the forthcoming female generation will no longer have to engage in this discussion.

design by wundergestalten.de

Pitti Uomo Florenz

11.01. – 13.01.22

Fashion Week Frankfurt Premium

18.01. – 20.01.22

Fashn Rooms Düsseldorf Areal Böhler, Hansaallee 321, Glühofenhalle

27.01. – 01.02.22

Showroom Munich, Römerstr. 14, München

03.02. – 28.02.22

www.diehinterhofagentur.de

WHAT'S THE STORY

AVANT TOI

“SUBVERTING NORMS AND CLASSICISM” Avant Toi has been a byword for avant-garde since the 1990s and surprises with a new twist to its DNA every season – brightly coloured, innovative cashmere. The brand is backed by Liapull Cashmere of Genoa, a family business with ambitious plans for 2022. We sat down for a chat with Fiorella and Mirko Ghignone.

Interview: Janaina Engelmann-Brothánek. Photos: Avant Toi

Genuine works of art: the colour formulas are Avant Toi’s greatest secret, as is the production method. Only this much can be revealed, it is an artistic-artisanal process.

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Avant Toi has always been considered a brand with strong innovation capabilities and a unique vision for the future. How do you perceive this time of profound change in the fashion world? And what does it mean for Avant Toi? Fiorella Ghignone, Managing Director of Liapull Cashmere and Avant Toi: Our Avant Toi cashmere label has been around since 1994, but our story starts back in the late 1950s when our mother, Lia Gambetta, founded Liapull in Genoa. She started very small, producing a few jumpers on a donated knitting machine. She was one of the few women who ran a company independently and was way ahead of her time. We had the privilege of witnessing their entrepreneurship and attitude, and it has certainly rubbed off on us. We still produce our collections here to this day, meaning that we offer “Made in Italy” products. Yet the Avant Toi label now accounts for 80 percent of our turnover and, yes, I am convinced that our success has something to do with our very innovative approach. But Mirko, my brother and creative mastermind, can tell you more about that.

Mirko Ghignone, Creative Director of Avant Toi: As Fiorella just explained so beautifully, we grew up in this business surrounded by a great deal of creativity and entrepreneurial spirit. That shaped us, no doubt.

I was eight when I crafted my first scarf on the knitting machine. Our mother always gave us the freedom to experiment, to express our ideas. That is how Avant Toi was born. I had started exploring the idea of action painting on cashmere and silk.

Naturally, this defied all the traditional aesthetic and stylistic rules usually associated with precious yarns like cashmere (laughs). Who would even dare to paint on such a precious yarn with a brush, let alone in such vibrant shades? Yet this is precisely how something unique is created. I love the idea of subverting norms and classicism. And I am thrilled to say today that my gut feeling was correct. Now more than ever, end consumers are looking for “oneof-a-kind” pieces. They desire to feel truly special.

This change suits our way of thinking and we have certainly benefited from the pandemic to a certain extent. I finally had time to decelerate and paint

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Avant Toi fulfilled a dream by opening a concept store in Milan.

again, to indulge in new inspirations. The collections created during that period have increased our esteem in the market even more.

How does one maintain the status of visionary for so long in this modern environment?

Mirko: Our secret is that we never stop researching and tinkering. For me, development never ends. It is an infinite process. We do not accept limitations and we never stop experimenting. That is my motto in life: every experience at work or in everyday life can serve as inspiration. And I have this urge to transform every fabric and every piece I see, to make it more beautiful with colour or new treatments. Our colours and techniques are most definitely among Avant Toi’s greatest strengths. We experiment extensively in our own dyeing facilities, which are like a laboratory from which new shades and innovative colour palettes emerge every season. We also “stress” our materials and yarns with our own methods and processes, such as the “Pilling Casentino”, to name but one. We invest heavily in research, which is the only way to transform visions into reality. And of course the craftsmanship aspect, the “Made in Italy” factor, is also incredibly important. Innovation only truly works when coupled with craftsmanship and genuine know-how, and we have been demonstrating both for 60 years.

Avant Toi maintains a close relationship with art.

How important is art for fashion?

Mirko: Avant Toi would not exist without art.

And creating fashion is also a form of art, is it not?

When I first started developing an interest in show

painting, I never imagined that art would have such an impact on the family business and be our key to international success. Again, my mother was amazing in this respect, because she let me do my thing and believed in the concept. We are often copied nowadays, but the uniqueness of our hand-mixed colours and how we apply them to fabrics remains unparalleled. We often hear: “Your pieces are the true works of art; all others are mere copies.” We are delighted about that!

How do you manage to outdo yourself and surprise the “audience” anew every season?

Mirko: There is a trick, of course, but I am not at liberty to tell (laughs). Not all beginnings in a creative process are easy. But we do have perseverance and passion. And yes, many things arise naturally.

Fiorella, Avant Toi continues to grow steadily.

What are your next projects?

Fiorella: As my brother just said, we never rest and constantly reinvent ourselves. We are constantly improving our product lines, expanding them to total looks. For example, we launched a sneaker collection and started designing home collections in 2018. We are also very excited about the opening of our new shop in Milan, which displays the sneakers, accessories, and home line alongside our menswear and womenswear collections. In other words, we have fulfilled our dream of a concept store. In January, we will return to Pitti Uomo after a long absence and are looking forward to finally meeting our customers in person again. My daughter, Giulia Marini, joining the family business is news that makes me very happy on a personal level. She spent six years working for a large corporation after graduating from university and we are looking forward to the breath of fresh air she is about to inject. Liapull and Avant Toi are welcoming the third generation, so to speak.

Siblings Fiorella and Mirko Ghignone have turned their mother‘s knitwear factory into an internationally respected avant-garde label: Avant Toi has been at the forefront of knitwear innovation for years.

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Comfort guaranteed: Soho New York offers casual wear with a positive attitude.

SOHO NEW YORK

THAT’S THE SPIRIT!

Knitwear is in his blood.

After Arqueonautas and Kitaro, Soho New York is Kai Wilhelm's next promising project.

Launched in March 2020, Soho New York has gotten off to a remarkable start. Label founder Kai Wilhelm is eager to harness the momentum and pull out all the stops.

Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: Soho New York

Cool name, positive vibes: Soho New York’s collection, featuring shirts and sweatshirts for men and women, has all the right ingredients. “Our fashion is fresh, colourful, and vibrant, which is why we achieved such mega results last summer season,” says Kai Wilhelm. After three altogether challenging seasons, the label boasts 176 retail customers; the womenswear line turnover alone quadrupled compared to previous year. “That inspires us to push on and take the next steps.”

One of the steps is expanding the collection. The Autumn-Winter season sees the introduction of knitwear, one of Wilhelm’s strengths after gaining 25 years of experience in the textile sector. The style is defined as sporty, yet light and soft with appealing details. Wilhelm sees potential in the medium to upper price segment of knitwear. Retail prices for t-shirts and sweats range from 19 to 39 Euros and 59 to 99 Euros respectively. Knitwear changes hand at prices between 79 and 129 Euros.

Simultaneously, the brand is enhancing its sales capacities with partners in order to promote the brand internationally. The current 176 customers – such as Hirmer, Kleiderbauer, P&C, and L&T – are mostly located in the German-speaking market.

“Yet markets such as Benelux and France are also performing well. We are also focusing on the former CIS states, especially as we have managed to attract major customers such as Interbalt and Holding Center.” Expansion is paramount, both offline and online. “We have been cooperating systematically with micro-influencers since November, intend to 206

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promote on social media, and will go online with a web shop in February. We also collaborate with retailers who are well-established online,” Wilhelm explains. “Stationary specialist retailers remain our main focus, which is why they will always retain pricing authority.”

The last two years have shown that flexibility is essential. The core team around Wilhelm and mentor Edgar Walterscheid remains small to ensure swift response times. For greater flexibility, parts of the manufacturing process are being relocated from India to Uzbekistan. “The country boasts an excellent infrastructure and is increasingly opening up to the West,” explains Wilhelm. “The deliveries are then no longer dependent on flights and airfreight bookings; they can be brought on-site by truck within 14 days.”

Wilhelm is an open-minded person; curiosity is his driving force. This mindset helps him advance projects, and he would not have it any other way.

“Fashion needs to reclaim its joy. The fun factor has been lacking lately.” It comes as no surprise that this is reflected in Soho New York’s USP.

WHAT'S THE STORY

As Chairman of Meyer Hosen AG, Sven Wandres also drives MMX forward.

MMX’s casual trousers, which are fashionable as well as sustainable, are semi-sartorially processed. The brand also impresses with a focal price of 179 Euros and a 3.0 mark-up.

MMX

“THE TIME IS RIGHT FOR OUR PRODUCT” A rare convergence: MMX, a premium trouser specialist, has gained a clear advantage in a competitive market by combining fashion and sustainability.

Yet MMX has even more to offer, says Chairman Sven Wandres.

Interview: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: MMX

Consumption has become much more important. Is MMX the right product for this era?

Yes, there is much to be said for that. Consumers have become more demanding and expect quality fashion, both in terms of fit and merchandising, in a carefully curated retail environment. In addition, sustainability has become more important to them, and with it brands that act sincerely instead of engaging in greenwashing. This is a development that greatly benefits MMX as a brand.

What is sustainable about your brand?

We are the only supplier in this segment to have switched exclusively to 100 percent organic cotton, a move we initiated three

years ago. Organic cotton is produced with 40 percent less water, which is good for the environment and the customers, as it is grown without using any chemical pesticides, artificial fertilisers, or genetically modified seeds. This is particularly important to the increasing number of people suffering from allergies. We have been manufacturing in our own facility in Transylvania for 30 years, and we also attach great importance to social standards.

What else predestines MMX as a partner for retailers?

Our 3.0 mark-up, as well as an extensive, fashionable stock programme, which is fairly rare in our segment. Standard beige and blue are no longer sufficient. Modern customers desire something more exciting, for example consistently sustainable high-performance jersey joggers and special designs ranging from checks to pepita. Moreover, retailers have realised how important it is to have a supplier who produces in Europe. As a small, dedicated team, we deliver reliably and react flexibly to fashion trends at short notice.

Speaking of sales…

With 1,000 points of sale, we are internationally represented beyond the German-speaking market. Now we want to explore these markets in more depth. To this end, we take trends in the respective markets into account, which is why we coordinate closely with our local sales agency partners.

In France and Italy, where we supply 200 points of sale, customers particularly appreciate innovative designs and details, while fashion can be more colourful in the Nether­ lands. Overall, the significantly increased interest in sustainable fashion is helpful to us. Both retailers and their customers want to understand to what extent MMX is environmentally conscious and how we achieve 100 percent climate-neutral production.

Because our trousers are Fairtrade and Made in Green certified, the entire supply chain can be traced via QR code. I myself was very positively surprised at how often this feature is accessed. For me, this is a clear indication that we can still achieve more by resolutely continuing on the path we have chosen. style in progress

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Michaël Azoulay has a passion for product development.

American Vintage embodies timeless essentials.

AMERICAN VINTAGE

“WE REMAIN TRUE TO OUR VALUES” The white t-shirt and denim are core elements of American Vintage. As the owner of the brand, Michaël Azoulay nevertheless moves the collection forward without losing its focus.

Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: American Vintage, Antonio Ciufo

How have you evolved the white t-shirt as a key piece?

Michaël Azoulay, owner of American Vintage: The starting point is always 100 percent cotton, with the idea of designing a new, yet authentic version. We have devoted ourselves to exploring diversity in fit and cut, resulting in a complete, fashionable collection centred around the white t-shirt.

Stylish necklines, details, seams… they add that certain something. Sometimes we use flamed jersey or twisted yarn. We also utilise all types of yarn: fine to thick, even those that are fairly rare and difficult to process.

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You also focus on denim.

Here, too, the motto is 100 percent cotton.

We are on a continual quest for a beautiful pair of authentic jeans, in more rustic materials and twill for more comfort – in blue or black, with pepper and salt looks, but also in the original ecru colour. We are passionate about experimenting with all kinds of washes, which always have a different effect on the product.

American Vintage represents a whole world of style. What are you building around it?

We embrace diversity in materials, cuts, and colours, and have also expanded our knitwear and coat ranges. Our loungewear and lingerie in soft ecru and beige tones are equally important. They can be beautifully combined to complete the American Vintage feel-good look.

Challenging times make digital strategies indispensable. Which areas have you focused on in particular?

It has become so much more crucial to be able to access important information in real time – not only for us at headquarters, but also in the field and at the POS. In order to respond promptly to questions regarding inventory management, store planning, and productivity, we have expanded our digital communication platforms and further interconnected our sales outlets. For example, our in-store staff can now serve customers all the more service-oriented and efficiently via iPods and iPads. Our goal is the store of tomorrow. We envision a shop with less inventory and more delivery sales, creating time and space for real customer experiences.

In this context, we are considering art, music, and sound, as well as events. The latter could even be implemented with our specialised retail partners. The pipeline of experimental campaigns is full and ready to go!

WHAT'S THE STORY

Gwand & The City at Gusswerk Salzburg promises to combine inspiration and business in a personal atmosphere. The brand portfolio evidences a spirit of optimism.

GWAND & THE CITY

DAWN OF A NEW ERA Gusswerk Salzburg strives to develop a unique environment for clothing characterised by craftsmanship, quality, origin, and tradition.

Text: Stephan Huber. Photos: Gusswerk

Like so many other areas, the traditional “Trachten” segment was hit particularly hard by the Corona pandemic. The cancellation of important festivals and events, from the Munich Oktoberfest to private weddings, has shown that a dependence on events and tourists constitutes an extremely shaky foundation for business. On top of it all, the Tracht & Country trade show, a longstanding seasonal fixture that was already struggling before the pandemic, was discontinued for good. For innovators such as Petra Kogler of Gusswerk and Hubert Stolzlechner of Modeagentur Stolz, this was the perfect moment to risk a new venture involving the creation of a contemporary, high-quality platform for the industry. Collective order days and a small summer party in and around the Gusswerk showrooms in August last year, which were thoroughly enjoyed by all attending guests,

were the impetus to take an ambitious step forward this season by ushering in a new era for lifestyle characterised by craftsmanship, quality, origin, and tradition with the launch of Gwand & The City. Kogler explains the concept: “We have set ourselves three goals.

First of all, we hope that Gwand & The City will foster good business. Secondly, we are eager to offer inspiration beyond fashion. And finally, we wish to be an event where people can meet and exchange ideas in person. A place of interaction is more important than ever!”

MORE THAN A CLICHÉ

There is, however, another goal the organisers hope to achieve in the medium to long term.

Specifically, to address retailers and brands who currently still have a clichéd opinion of traditional “Trachten” and associated fields.

Stolzlechner is convinced: “Our industry entails so many aspects that an increasing number of consumers will be demanding in the future. And what the many fabulous brands and manufacturers offer suits the daily look of many more people than is

currently the case. We want to contribute to unlocking this potential.”

HARNESSING POTENTIAL TOGETHER

This can only be achieved together. That is why it is important to Gusswerk, as organiser of Gwand & The City, to involve other players, for example strong showrooms in the city of Salzburg, in a targeted manner, and to do so at an earlier date, initially brought forward by one week to the end of February.

Effective coordination with direct neighbours Brandboxx is also high on Kogler and Stolzlechner’s agenda: “The better we work together, the better it is for our customers, for Salzburg as a location, and ultimately, of course, for our entire community. Together we will succeed in restoring ‘Tracht’ or ‘Gwand’ to a really powerful stage, with appeal far beyond the core target group.”

Gwand & The City Order Days Salzburg, Gusswerk 25th to 26th of January & 25th to 27th of February 2022

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New country luxury: Schneiders’ core retail prices range from 400 to 800 Euros.

Wolfgang Binder, CEO of Schneiders: “We devote a great deal of time and effort to our product.”

SCHNEIDERS

COMMITTED TO HERITAGE Down-to-earth at the core of the brand, highly future-oriented in its modernisation: CEO and co-owner Wolfgang Binder is tweaking the right screws to transpose the Schneiders brand into the present.

Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: Schneiders

Schneiders is a family-run business with pride in tradition and mature values. Founded in 1946, the Salzburg-based company has been managed by Wolfgang Binder since 2018. “Schneiders represents nature-oriented outerwear with a craftsman’s touch. The brand has a tangible connection to Salzburg and the alpine countryside,” says Binder, adding: “We are very much grounded in everything we do.”

FUTURE-PROOF

That is the premise of Schneiders’ premium collection. Traditional materials in many wool qualities, as well as luxurious country elements, evoke the brand’s origins. A 210

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strength that has been cultivated over the past three years in particular, with contemporary silhouettes, harmonious palettes, and technical innovations that never lose touch with the brand essence. “We devote a great deal of time and effort to our product,” Binder explains. “The expertise we have gained over decades is what gives us our competitive edge.” 90 percent of outerwear is manufactured in Europe, which ensures short transport routes. The brand is continuously increasing its commitment to sustainability, as is evident in the Pure capsule. The two core elements are biodegradability and undyed natural wool. All pieces are completely degradable within five years.

The modern looks appeal internationally.

The brand counts 800 points of sale worldwide, 150 of which are in Germany, among them Lodenfrey, Sør, Hirmer, Mientus, and Schnitzler. Italy is the second-strongest market, not least due to the tradition that Schneiders cultivates proximity to Italy in its campaigns, followed by France, Switzerland, Austria, Benelux, Great Britain, and the US.

“Our efforts are now paying off, at present with a healthy increase in orders for the summer season compared to 2019, although we are still pursuing a more selective sales strategy overall,” Binder says. “This confirms that retailers perceive us as a brand with a unique identity.”

This is also owed to a digital offensive that was launched around a year ago. It started with digital lookbooks for B2B customers, followed by the progressive implementation of the brand's own online shop in the respective markets, which further enhanced its image on an international level. In addition, Schneiders is working hard on providing images and information material for its affiliated retail partners to use at the POS and on their online portals. Binder is, after all, acutely aware that stationary, owner-managed retailers remain the label’s most important partners. The latest campaign, which also features on Facebook and Instagram, was shot in Austria. A clear commitment: “This takes us one step closer to our homeland, which is a source of great strength.”

WHAT'S THE STORY

“I am very optimistic and excited about the time ahead,” says Fan He, founder of cashmere brand Kashette.

KASHETTE

CLOTHING REFLECTS FEELINGS AND MOODS Fan He founded his cashmere label Kashette in Antwerp in 2020. The idea was to create a knitwear collection that combines highest quality with truly innovative designs. In 2021, Kashette made its debut on the German market.

Interview: Janaina Engelmann-Brothánek.

Photos: Kashette

Fan, how does one come up with the idea of launching a cashmere label in a year as difficult as 2020?

2020 was a special year. It gave me time to think about important issues, and I ultimately decided to take the plunge. I was determined to finally apply my many years of cashmere expertise and my enthusiasm for the yarn to the European market. I wanted to start a label that not only offers top quality, but also excellent prices and innovative design. The world we live in today provides so many stimuli, so many sources of inspiration

Many years of cashmere expertise coupled with modern silhouettes: Kashette.

– it is full of colours and shapes, and never boring. Now more than ever, end consumers deserve premium quality. We all deserve the best, no?

What makes Kashette so special?

I would say it represents the perfect mix of top quality, unique design, and excellent prices. Fashion is so much more than just clothing: it reflects life and the manner in which we spend our precious time. That is why I thrive on using the finest and most luxurious yarns. Together with a team of talented designers, pattern makers, and technicians, Kashette is capable of producing these exceptional pieces without compromising on quality and uniqueness.

Our collections resemble a chain reaction of shapes, colours, and patterns, in which each piece can stand on its own, but can also be combined depending on the occasion and mood. At the end of the day, clothing reflects feelings and moods.

What exactly is the mood of the Autumn/ Winter collection 2022/23?

This season is dedicated to snow, mountains, and luxury ski resorts like Aspen, Val d‘Isère, and Niseko – weekend getaway destinations that harbour plenty of style and glamour. It is about being seen in the restaurant or bars in the evening, but also about moments of relaxation while cosying up in front of the fireplace. The collection is meant to suit all these moments. The colours range from soft, neutral, and frosty colours inspired by winter landscapes to nocturnal tones where black and dark colours replace daylight.

What are your expectations for the German market?

This market is one of the most significant in Europe and worldwide. We are confident that our collections can satisfy the demands of the end consumer in terms of quality.

In Marc Kofler and his team at Adventure Fashion Agency, we have found a dependable partner who has understood and shares our philosophy. We hope to appeal to major retailers and independently managed stores alike. style in progress

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Katharina Krassnitzer, Head of Fashion & Tracht at Brandboxx.

Markus Oberhamberger, Managing Director of Brandboxx.

Austria’s largest order centre combines showrooms and exhibition space under one roof. Tenants and trade show participants from the sports, fashion, footwear, lingerie, swimwear, accessories, and of course, Trachten sectors appreciate the facilities on offer in the North of Salzburg.

BRANDBOXX

A NEW HOME FOR TRADITIONAL “TRACHT” Providing the traditional “Trachten” industry with a new home is the selfdeclared mission of Markus Oberhamberger and Katharina Krassnitzer. A clever concept comprising existing showrooms and 6,500 square metres of exhibition space for the Trachten Order Days allows Austria’s largest order centre to offer the industry a home – and a perspective far beyond the venue itself.

Text: Janaina Engelmann-Brothánek.

Photos: Brandboxx

“Tracht has a long history here,” says Markus Oberhamberger, Managing Director of Brandboxx. “The Trachten-Premiere event had been hosted by our venue for many years until we decided to provide an independent proposition.” Since 2020, the team lead by trade show manager Katharina Krassnitzer has been working intently for and with the industry. The first dedicated trade fair, the Trachten Order Days, finally took place in August 2021. “It was a resounding success.

We received fantastic feedback.” A combina212

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tion of permanent showrooms of brands such as Sportalm, Wenger Austrian Style, Berwin & Wolff, Kinga Mathe, Krüger Dirndl, Stapf, h. moser, Hammerschmid, Steinbock, and Mothwurf, and exhibitors including Alpe Adria Manufaktur Strohmaier, hangOwear, Bittner Hüte, G’weih & Silk, Mogo, Isar Trachten, Pezzo Strick, Tofana, and Xaver Luis, meant that buyers from Austria, South Tyrol, Bavaria, and other European countries enjoyed the privilege of viewing a total of 140 brands. A shuttle to Gusswerk, where other alpine lifestyle brands maintain showrooms, perfected the ensemble.

THE BIG STAGE

“The Corona crisis, which caused the cancellation of traditional festivals and celebrations, hit the Trachten industry particularly hard, making a pragmatic, vibrant proposition to these companies all the more important,” says Oberhamberger. However, the initiators of the Trachten Order Days have bigger plans. “We will listen closely when the indus-

try expresses the desire to reinstate a major collaborative platform. When that time finally comes, we are ready to take to the big stage at a different venue in Salzburg,” reveals Krassnitzer. “There simply is no better place for showcasing Trachten and alpine lifestyle.

Both exhibitors and buyers love visiting Salzburg,” Oberhamberger argues convincingly.

The two Tracht events in spring (HOT 1 Tracht & Mode Order Start on the 25th and 26th of January 2022 and Trachten Order Days from the 25th to 27th of February 2022) are well-booked; the February date has been brought forward at the industry’s request and is already booked to capacity. “We sincerely hope that the pandemic situation will permit a regular event schedule, not least because the Trachten industry itself is brimming with optimism. Everyone is really looking forward to the first season when folk festivals can take place again. And this optimism is best experienced live,” says Krassnitzer.

WHAT'S THE STORY

CRUNA

TAILORING WITH A MODERN TWIST With the 2022 autumn/winter collection, trouser specialist Cruna is expanding its total look range and continues to consolidate after the positive response of recent seasons. This represents a successful start to a new era for the Vicenza-based company, which is particularly successful in bridging the gap between traditional “Made in Italy” and contemporary codes.

Interview: Janaina Engelmann-Brothánek.

Photos: Cruna

There are some great sketches on the wall here. How will your autumn/winter collection 2022 compare?

Alessandro Fasolo, CEO of Cruna: We are completing the transition from a pure trouser manufacturer to a total look brand. We offer three lines – Leisure, Active, and Natural Wonders – in an attempt to cover 360 degrees of market demand. As always, all pieces are completely “Made in Italy”. From fabrics to finishing, everything is manufactured in production facilities in the Veneto region.

We are particularly proud of Marzotto per Cruna. The renowned fabric manufacturer has produced some exclusive fabrics for us, including a combed flannel material.

Tommaso, the Natural Wonders line is highly popular. What makes it so special?

Tommaso Pinotti, Sales Director of Cruna: Natural Wonders is made of 100% natural materials such as cotton, cashmere, wool, and blends of these three – entirely without synthetic fibres. This is matched by a very earthy colour palette of shades ranging from beige to chocolate. The capsule collection is designed to combine sartorial manufacturing with

heritage and streetwear spirit. Highlights include a pair of 5-pocket jeans, made entirely from recycled production scraps, but paired with a classic jacket. One trouser model we rely heavily on is called Arbat, a carrot cut that is looser at the top and narrower at the bottom, just like in the 1950s. We have expanded bestsellers like our overshirts.

Our customers love the versatile styling options and perfect fit.

What are your strategic goals?

Alessandro Fasolo: Our aim is to continue our growth trajectory and expand exports. We have embarked on an aggressive expansion plan aimed at scaling up and consolidating the European market through strong distribution and targeted geographic positioning. We are planning to launch a women’s collection. We want to enhance our expertise and break new ground, reach the next level.

Cruna knows how to build excitement and modernity with the right balance of well-known bestsellers and new styles.

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C O POST NS U ME RISM

Retailment for dummies? Stores are not warehouses!

What sounds so trivial is, in fact, of profound importance. The new science of logistics behind fashion demands knowing what needs to be available immediately and what is worth waiting for. Those who apply this formula to the backend, can work all the magic up front. This is how the point of sale evolves into a point of participation.

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P o s t- C o n s u m e r i s m

The restoration of the historic cinema hall created the stage for the “Today at Apple” project, where experts deliver lectures on various art, culture, and design topics.

Is the product still relevant? Does a business model based on unquenchable desire beyond price-performance and actual need still work? Post-consumerism manifestos act as catalysts for questions of this nature. They may be radical and overstep boundaries, but they always contain a grain of truth. We have compiled a list of the most ingenious examples: stores detached from space and time, where consumption is more a consequence of participation than its initial purpose.

Retailment captures everything that the debate about supply and demand cannot resolve and provides a purpose for stores that embrace the experience factor in individual ways. The creative disruption in store design has flushed experience to the surface as the overriding premise. Text: Isabel Faiss

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Apple Tower Theatre/Los Angeles Welcome to the Capital of Entertainment Photos: Apple

Apple opened its newest store in July 2021 in LA’s historic Tower Theatre building, which was built in 1927 as the city’s first sound movie theatre. The entire concept encapsulates the sensory experience, the building itself, the personalised service at various touch points throughout the store, and the allure of Broadway. “Apple Tower Theatre is a tribute to the rich history and heritage of this entertainment capital,” Apple Senior Vice President Deirdre O’Brien explains. The free daily event series “Today at Apple” offers workshops and lectures on various topics by employees and representatives of the local creative community. The upper floor on the balcony level features fully equipped theatre chairs. Here, customers can wait for their Genius Bar appointment with an Apple expert in comfort.

Apple Tower Theatre, 802 S Broadway, Los Angeles/US, www.apple.com

WHAT'S THE STORY

The idea of presenting consumer electronics and IT products in this setting deserves unreserved recognition.

Embedded in the backdrop of Broadway, Apple Tower Theatre embodies service, experience, and authenticity.

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P o s t- C o n s u m e r i s m

Cult status in Florence: Gucci Garden is considered a pioneer within the field of cross-media experience retail. Here, local colour meets international status symbols.

Gucci Garden/Florence A Thousand-Room Garden Photos: Bea de Giacomo, Gucci Garden, Roblox

Creative Director Alessandro Michele showcased Gucci‘s most iconic campaigns in the Gucci Garden Archetypes exhibition. Roblox temporarily translated this experience into a virtual world on its gaming platform.

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When Gucci Garden opened in 2018 in the historic Palazzo della Mercanzia in Florence, the eccentric, multiple experience empire spread over three floors was considered the best practice in experiential retail. The Gucci Garden Galleria on the top two floors acts as an in-house creative hub featuring its own brand store, a bookstore, a cinema, a selfie room with Gucci backdrop, and a Michelin-starred restaurant. Most recently, it hosted the multimedia exhibition Gucci Garden Archetypes, which revived the most glorious campaigns in the company’s history to mark its 100th anniversary. In cooperation with the gaming platform Roblox, Gucci Garden Archetypes was transferred into the virtual world. Users entered the digital exhibition as a neutral, naked avatar and absorbed individual fragments in each room, meaning each visitor left the environment looking completely unique. It was also possible to buy virtual Gucci products for your avatar, which could then be transferred to other games featured on the Roblox platform.

Gucci Garden, Piazza della Signora 10, Florence/Italy, www.gucci.com

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P o s t- C o n s u m e r i s m

The store acts as a stage. The Playhouse in Tokyo relies heavily on the playbook usually used by theatres.

Monthly changing pop-up stores, flexible walls, and event concepts transform the building into a colossal stage.

The Playhouse toys with constant change and lifestyle orchestration.

Vulcanize London presents its international range of brands on the first floor.

The Playhouse/Tokyo Raise the Curtain!

Photos: Kenji Seo, Pan Projects, Haruki Oku Design, Crazy Inc

The new Vulcanize store in Tokyo’s city centre, dubbed The Playhouse, feels like it allows us to peek behind the curtain. Movable walls facilitate a constant transformation of the interior. On the ground floor, individual rooms and spaces house monthly changing pop-up stores curated by local and international brands. On the first floor, Vulcanize offers a bar, small VIP rooms, and, most importantly, its range of brands including Atelier Verdi, Victoria Beckham, Chinti & Parka, and Goat. Everything serves the purpose of presenting visitors with new, unexpected backdrops, to surprise and inspire them. The atrium in the entrance area offers space for events for up to 50 people, while the event agency Crazy Inc utilises the top floor, called BENE, for weddings from time to time.

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NTWRK/App Live Shopping Podcast Photos: NTWRK

Aaron Levant has not reinvented teleshopping, but he has dusted away the cobwebs by rejuvenating the genre with e-commerce. In 2018, he launched NTWRK, an app tailored to Gen Z, in LA. Live shopping experienced a boom during the pandemic and, in contrast to its biggest competitor Amazon Live, NTWRK enjoyed great success.

The secret lies in curated real-time shopping of carefully selected products from all over the world, live shows and streams, prominent stars and influencers as cooperation partners, the most exclusive designer collectibles, and always being first in terms of hottest drops and limited editions by streetwear brands. NTWRK combines the fun of target-group-oriented entertainment with impulse shopping, but it is currently still primarily geared towards collectors and enthusiasts. Those who used to camp outside a store now join a virtual queue of 40,000 others and need to tap their smartphone at the right time. Companies like Warner Brothers have invested in the concept alongside basketball star LeBron James, rappers, and actors. Offering its own products and designs, the platform has long since transformed into a brand in its own right. www.thentwrk.com

Exclusivity as USP: desirability laid the foundations for NTWRK’s 300 percent growth rate in 2020.

With up to five drops a day at a conversation rate of five to 15 percent, NTWRK CEO Aaron Levant is eager to transform his platform in a department store for streaming.

Exclusivity was the first step: the new goal is to expand and broaden the scope and reach of NTWRK.

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P o s t- C o n s u m e r i s m

A space of inspiration and reflection: Levi’s House in London, which resembles a design studio, offers deep insights into the creation, recycling, and redesign possibilities of denim fabrics.

The iconic brand’s motto is “Buy Better, Wear Longer”, and it certainly provides concrete options to do so here.

Levi’s House/London Blueprint of a Trilogy Photos: Levi’s

An experiment that turned into a success story: Levi’s House, which opened in Soho at the end of 2020 as a creative textile laboratory and sustainability think tank, underlines Levi’s intention to fully commit to its “Buy Better, Wear Longer” campaign. Levi‘s House is anything but a conventional store. It is a meeting place in the spirit of circular economy, where the launch of the Levi‘s by Levi‘s collection consisting of returns, surplus items, and recycled denim took place. Customers can have their beloved jeans repaired, redesigned in Indigowares’ creative lab, or recycled. The store is not primarily an invitation to consume, but to delve deeply into the creation, intrinsic value, and sustainability of denims and their conscious use as a quality product.

Levi’s House, 41 Great Marlborough St, London/UK, www.levi.com

Circular economy explained: Levi’s presents creative ways for customers to enjoy their denim products longer at stations specialising in repair, redesign, and recycling. Donating denim items is also an option.

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La Samaritaine, the largest department store in Paris, consists of four adjoining buildings and is located directly between the Louvre and Les Halles.

Magazine 4 is where the building‘s history converges with the future. Here, a gigantic concept store has been created, tailored perfectly to the needs of its Gen Z target group.

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WHAT'S THE STORY

La Samaritaine/Paris Double-Faced Comeback Photos: Gabriel de la Chapelle, Pierre-Olivier Deschamps

It took 16 years to renovate the gigantic La Samaritaine building complex. The prestigious house of LVMH Group finally reopened its doors in 2021.

Depending on the perspective, it is a traditional retail temple or the most exclusive department store in Europe, a steamboat or a speedboat. The restored Art Deco façade of the main complex contrasts with the reflective frosted glass front at Magazine 4 on Rue de Rivoli. La Samaritaine closed as a department store and reopened as a community hub for young Parisians. With a hotel, its own kindergarten, flats, 12 restaurants, its own spa, 600 boutiques, a private shopping suite, and the 1,000-square-metre experimental show space La Voyage for culinary and artistic inspiration, it is probably the grandest monument to experience-driven consumption.

La Samaritaine, 9 Rue de la Monnaie, Paris/France, www.dfs.com

Contemporary spirit is the guiding principle of the new La Samaritaine in every detail. A prime example: in contrast to online retail, the product range is largely comprised of exclusive products and collections.

Service, privacy, and comfort are paramount in the private spa and private shopping lounge. Floor space efficiency is clearly secondary to customer experience.

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Mirror allows Lululemon to focus on the future of interactive and personalised home training, and to further strengthen its position as a reliable training partner.

High-Tech Athleisure Photos: Lululemon

Maintaining close ties with the yoga and fitness community has always been an essential aspect of Lululemon’s strategy. To reflect this approach, the brand opened its largest store to date in Lincoln Park, Chicago in 2019.

In addition to a conventional retail area, it houses a sports studio offering daily yoga and fitness classes, a sports bar with an ethically balanced menu, and a meditation area. The brand has created a comfortable environment for its clientele, aligned with their lifestyle and needs. Individual pieces of the collection can be borrowed and tried out in a class before they are purchased. The fitness start-up Mirror, acquired in 2020, offers an interactive smart mirror that functions as a virtual home exercise studio and allows Lululemon to embed itself even deeper in its customers’ lives.

The live courses, as well as the extensive archive for streaming, have been vastly successful.

Lululemon, Lincoln Park, Chicago/US, www.lululemon.com The store offers the perfect brand stage for Lululemon’s products, primarily because it addresses customers when and where it makes the most sense.

Bonding in superlatives: Lululemon’s downtown fitness temple has created a store that acts as a community hub for its customers.

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A store like a sensory playground: Park by Balabala in Foshan Shi has created a lifestyle centre for families that incidentally also sells fashion. Everything is geared towards providing a parent-child experience.

Park by Balabala/Foshan Shi Green Playground Photos: Jack Qin, Xiaofeng

Here, there are no boundaries between store and nature. This store has created a modern multimedia park in Foshan’s city centre as an oasis that bridges the gap between two vibrant parts of the city – and the gap between the past and the future. The historic building in the Lingnan architectural style has literally been rejuvenated by the children’s store Park by Balabala. Designed like an oversized playground that combines fashion, family leisure activities, and culture in a playful way, the store also houses a children's hairdresser, a coffee bar, a parent-child teahouse, and a multimedia entertainment zone, as well as a playground on the leafy roof terrace.

Park by Balabala, No 11 Chancheng District, Foshan/China, www.balabala.com

The name says it all: Park by Balabala is an oasis for family outings. Parents can enjoy a relaxing cup of tea while their children enjoy a varied entertainment programme.

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Manifesto We have thought. We have reflected. We have decided.

The time of “click” has transformed everything.

Consumers have changed.

The time has come.

It is the time of POST-CONSUMERISM. Shopping space and it’s experience do not fulfill post-consumer expectations: responsable shopping, ecologically aware shopping, intelligent and informed shopping...

HOW YOU SHOP DEFINES YOU. Post-consumers don’t just shop.

New ways of consuming require new ways of selling.

To achieve these new ways we need to stop and think before we act.

Because the post-consumer requieres POST-RETAIL and we need to invent it.

Retail space is not a comercial nor an experiential space any more, retail space needs to be designed to satisfy the needs of the POST-CONSUMER. We need to create spaces that embrace POST-RETAIL. POST-RETAIL against technology’s, algorithm’s and omnichanel’s dictatorship!

POST-RETAIL to go back to DISCOVERY! POST-RETAIL to demand human contact!

POST-RETAIL to create a physical space that complies the expectations of the POST-CONSUMER outside the digital space!

POST-RETAIL to create MEMORIES that will be embedded in your mind!

Retail is dead...

Long live POST-RETAIL! (Metica Retail Thinking, www.meticaretailthinking.com)

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HOW TO REINTRODUCE PLEASURE TO CON­ SUMPTION?

Ah, fashion! Purchasing it can trigger genuine feelings of happiness, because it fulfils longings, allows us to reinvent ourselves.

Fashion, more than almost anything else, is an expression of our identity. Nevertheless, the last two years in particular have raised a question mark behind the word consumption. Has the pandemic changed our needs? Is consumption still allowed to make us happy?

Text: Janaina Engelmann-Brothánek, Kay Alexander Plonka, Nicoletta Schaper. Illustrations: Simona Gala Baronti

TRUST

Huy Do, Head Buyer of Jades Men “The joy of consumption stems from an exchange between salesperson and customer. A casual ‘Hi, how are you?’ or ‘Good to see you’ makes the customer feel at ease and encourages a shopping experience. After all, that is what Jades embodies. It is our duty to show our customers what is trendy, what cut one should wear, and which colours are essential wardrobe elements. Men rely on and trust a salesperson. That is why online shopping is usually out of the question for them. When restaurants and clubs are open, they have a reason to abandon sweatpants and dress up. That alone restores the joy in consumption.”

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GAME CHANGER

Andrea Grudda, lecturer/author/expert on future viability “What has not yet penetrated the consciousness of many companies is the huge significance that digital clothing will gain. This is a brand-new fun element in shopping. On the one hand, you have clothing that can be bought in video games, which opens up a whole range of new possibilities for brands.

Apart from own collections and limited editions, it is a new and highly interesting production method. On the other hand, you have clothing that can be superimposed on photos. This allows you to pimp and elevate your social media feeds. It also enables you to create a new business look without investing in clothes that might be too expensive for some, or clothes that ‘age’ too quickly.

This technology will constitute a game changer in many areas.”

OPTIMISM

FEELING COMFORTABLE

Tanja Ehrmann, owner of Bo Redley “Shopping is a pleasure and should be enjoyable! This cannot be achieved by shopping online, but by visiting stores with a living room feeling, where you feel in safe hands, attended by staff who can style new trends tastefully and provide honest advice. Comfort is our be-all and end-all! Our personal approach also works online via live videos on Instagram or WhatsApp. Personality also wins over younger customers, who appreciate it just as much as older customers. However, we observe that the demand for glamorous looks has not yet returned, but customers are willing to spend money on excellent quality. When they know where and how the cashmere has been produced, that provides the final impetus for the purchase decision.”

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Jörg Ehrlich, co-founder of Odeeh “In terms of societal attitudes, we are perhaps a little fearful at the moment, and quickly feel like we are doing something wrong. I believe this attitude is rooted in politics, especially as we are increasingly confronted with catastrophes and global problems due to omnipresent over-information. Without denying the issues at hand, we need a certain ‘nevertheless’ spirit to develop resilience and reclaim self-confidence.

We need a positively confident energy and quality of life – less hedonistic fun, more optimistic joy. At Odeeh, we counteract such doubting forces by creating positivity and constantly trying something new: With a vibrant collection that is not arbitrarily colourful and a volume level that does not drown out the message.”

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LIFE-CENTRIC APPROACH

Matteo Ward, co-founder of WRÅD Living, start-up entrepreneur, activist, TEDx talker “The classic ‘consumer-centric approach’, which makes brands and institutions perceive people as robots, ensures they are dependent on consumption, forces them to buy things they do not need, and endangers the planet, must be replaced by a ‘life-centric approach’. Nobody needs another pair of jeans or another t-shirt. Retail as a mere ‘warehouse’ for items is no longer relevant. As the only physical point of contact between brand and market, it needs to inspire, guide, advise honestly, and fulfil its target group’s desires. We require an approach based on the desire to deliver products and services that meet people’s genuine needs, from the psychological-emotional to the material level.”

EMBRACING LIFE AGAIN

Claudia Lunati, Global Marketing Director of Saucony Originals “People have returned to treating themselves to new products and are ready to embrace life again. Additionally, now they have extra confidence and an advanced understanding of what is truly relevant for them. We have noticed that the consumer has gained confidence in buying online. Working in home offices has led to a new kind of consumption, where home delivery has evolved into a new habit. The training and running segments have literally exploded.

As a brand, we are investing in the consumer experience. We take the consumer journey from offline to online very seriously, which is why we are building strong relationships with authenticators on social media who are able to embody our brand values and empower their communities in terms of individual self-expression.”

ENTERTAIN TO SELL

Nicole Srock.Stanley, founder and CEO of Dan Pearlman Group “Mindless consumption is no longer appropriate, yet people are still eager to experience new things and further individualise their lifestyle, for example by consuming services and relevant products, which they like to present on social media as their latest shopping find. This is good news, especially for the stationary retail sector! Where else can shopping appeal to all the senses in such a focused manner? In the past, the rule of thumb was to sell plenty and entertain little. Today, it is essential to entertain plenty to sell well.

That is why a carefully curated range combined with entertainment, as well as a physical and digital experience, is key for traditional retail, as is proven by the award-winning Bonprix Fashion Connect Store in Hamburg, where shopping becomes a real customer journey with the help of digital devices such as smartphones.”

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Nicola Gerber-Maramotti, who was born in Germany, has carved out a place for herself in her in-laws' family business.

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MAX MARA

“OUR CUSTOMERS DEMAND A HOLISTIC EXPERIENCE” For many, Nicola Gerber-Maramotti is the face of Max Mara. She does not enjoy talking about herself, as she prefers to talk about the company that she has shaped decisively as retail director over the last few years.

Most of all, however, she loves talking about the Italian brand’s customers.

Interview: Stephan Huber. Photos: Max Mara

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am advocating a thesis that may seem a bit disturbing at first glance. In the medium and long term, the pandemic offers our industry more opportunities than it has caused harm.

Would you disagree with me?

Nicola Gerber-Maramotti: People, and hence companies too of course, grow through challenges.

And the challenges of the last two years have been extraordinary. What I have observed most acutely is perhaps a new mindfulness in dealing with each other. The pandemic has practically forced us to exchange ideas more closely and deliberately again – not least internally, by the way. This has generated great energy, even a new intensity.

Has the pandemic changed our perspective?

I would use the term sharpened. Travelling, for example, has suddenly turned into a mind exercise.

And many have noticed that such journeys can actually lead you further afield. This has had a highly stimulating impact on creativity.

What do you expect to stick?

I am convinced that this new sensibility will endure in many ways. Faced with wardrobes cluttered with irrelevant items, many have begun to challenge the “unculture” of mindless consumption with more sustainable demands for quality at all levels. This aligns very well with Max Mara’s values. We have always been the opposite of fast fashion. A woman would never throw away a 101801 Icon Coat. She might, however, pass it on to her daughter…

What distinguishes the DNA of Max Mara beyond the mentioned intrinsic value?

Innovation as a perpetual process of continued development and a clear, stylistic signature. This is a tremendous challenge in a market environment that is changing so rapidly. How securely and self-confidently we implement this as a company that continues to be family-run bears testament to a very healthy foundation.

Corona has triggered a breathtaking tech and digitisation surge in the fashion industry. Does this also apply to Max Mara?

Absolutely, at all levels! The design processes have been revamped, as have many digital formats and storytelling in general. For a brand that thrives on and loves retail culture as much as Max Mara, it was crucial to find ways to reach our customers when they cannot visit us, and to do so in a way that is as individual and approachable as they are accustomed to and expect from us. In fact, we have learned how to really pursue hybrid retail during this period.

How? It only works when it is geared towards people’s individual needs. Ultimately, phygital simply means flexibly combining the best of both worlds to create a personalised customer journey. If, for example, a certain piece is not in stock in the store, then it is up to us to organise its delivery to the customer in exactly the manner that suits her best. In other words, to turn an apparent lack into a service experience. The fact that more than 70 percent of our customers would rather have the items delivered to the store than to their homes may seem surprising at first glance. However, those who have understood that it is about so much more than a coat, a blouse, or a pair of trousers, recognise the need for authenticity and quality as a holistic experience. We were honoured to see how happy our customers were when they returned to our stores. This is yet another important lesson for our future.

For the future of the stationary component within a hybrid retail landscape?

Our customers, and this undoubtedly does not apply to Max Mara exclusively, did not miss clothing as an existential necessity. They missed attention, style in progress

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care, the complimentary glass of champagne, and the sensuality and haptics of fashion. Besides, city centres and shopping streets only function symbiotically. When the hospitality industry is closed, this symbiosis is disrupted. All this was highlighted to us in a very drastic way. But as an almost natural reaction to this, there is also a longing for human interaction. People are not robots.

Art and culture were perhaps even more severely challenged than fashion. An issue that almost seems like a socio-political concern for Max Mara.

My father-in-law Achille Maramotti was an extraordinary, far-sighted man who, by the way, challenged and encouraged women like me quite deliberately.

The Collezione Maramotti he founded is so much more than just an exciting collection of contemporary art. It embraces the influence and value of creativity in all aspects of our lives. Pursuing this notion is an obligation for Max Mara.

Here, too, new levels have been established.

For example, the Max Mara Face of the Future Award.

I have to admit that I particularly enjoy this award.

Since 2006, this award has been presented to young actresses who are at a crucial turning point in their careers as part of the Women In Film initiative.

Among the recipients were such wonderful women as Chloe Moretz, Zoe Saldana, and Emily Blunt. In 2021, I had the pleasure of presenting the award to the great Zazie Beetz from Berlin.

Does she represent the future of Max Mara?

A smart, funny, confident young woman and citizen of the world like Zazie? Definitely!

Thank you for the interview!

With the Face of the Future Award, Max Mara and Women In Film support emerging talents in the film industry. Pictured is award winner Zazie Beetz.

Max Mara is expanding its retail strategy to smaller cities: a store in Salzburgs “Getreidegasse” was opened in June 2021.

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HOW GREEN ARE WE?

By Mariella Milani

H

ow green are we? Is there a correlation between sustainability and opportunity equality? Can a green system actually work without an ethical code? I attempted to cautiously explore these questions in my book titled “Fashion Confidential”.

A few weeks ago, TGR Veneto aired a report on the inhumane conditions – not of work, but of slavery – endured by 154 Chinese workers in various Italian factories. All factories involved manufacture clothing for luxury brands.

The labourers were forced to work gru­ elling shifts, even on public holidays or during their unpaid vacations. All this on part-time contracts issued by five separate companies.

ed with products that are not saleable under our own standards. These are products containing chemicals that are illegal in Europe, produced by women in forced labour. These are products that should not be sold in the EU! We cannot turn a blind eye to this!

Fashion must return to creating culture and beauty instead of prioritising profit maximisation. We must restore the meaning of the word fashion! Matteo Ward, a visionary in the field of social and environmental justice, is a young man who I perceive as a role model for the future. He said something that really struck a chord with me: “If the fashion industry were a state, equal opportunity would be a utopia.” So let’s keep asking uncomfortable questions.

Let’s find out how wide the gap between reality and communicated facts actually is. And let’s start closing that gap!

The investigative report “A Stone in the Shoe” (“Il Sassolino Nella Scarpa”), broadcast on Rai3 in the programme Presa Diretta, offers more detail. It features Albanian women whose hands are badly deformed due to their working conditions, people who are beaten with sticks, and pollution that causes serious diseases among the inhabitants of the surrounding areas. Malpractices that by no means only affect Chinese-owned businesses in Italy, but also Italian craftsmen, who are forced to accept ridiculous prices to produce items that are then sold for hundreds or even thousands of Euros.

These are men and women who silently accept their plight, because speaking up could mean ending up on the street! We talk about sustainability, but is this the human sustainability of the luxury world?

Let’s address another sore point in our industry. Italy cannot afford to manage its own supply chains green and ethically, but to simultaneously allow the unregulated import of products to continue. This is how our market is floodstyle in progress

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Christoph Bründl and his team create magic moments – a matrix of experience, service, and insights gained from many years of learning.

BRÜNDL

“REDUCE TO THE MAX” When Christoph Bründl talks about his flagship store, which reopened after a refit in Kaprun last October, he speaks about people as a distinguishing element, sensual flow, and dopamine-flooded brains. A conversation about new experiences and meaningful sustainability.

Interview: Isabel Faiss. Photos: Bründl

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our new flagship store is a spectacle of service. It boasts 85 highly motivated employees, well-known sports personalities such as Hans Hofer or Fabian Stiepel on the sales floor, and even a dedicated concierge. Is it possible to translate such a staccato into a steady heartbeat?

Our flagship store has always been our laboratory or research centre, a place where we experiment. This is where we allow ourselves to indulge ideas like having a concierge. We actually went as far as hiring a professional from the hotel industry. The five-star hotel business has always been our mecca for trend scouting. If you only measure yourself against the competition in your own genre, you become too similar. That is why we deliberately look to other industries for inspiration. We refer to our concierge, or hospitality manager, as M3, which stands for Magic Moments Manager. He keeps an eye on procedures and magic moments in our house.

What are these magic moments? What concrete function does M3 perform in this context?

The first aspect is always the quality of first contact when a customer meets a person in our store. Yes, we have deliberately dropped the term “employee”.

We have clearly defined how the greeting, first contact, and the personal demand analysis should proceed, because this is a lever for inspiration and additional sales. In addition to maintaining order and cleanliness in and around the store, M3 also needs to ensure that the hospitality area is running smoothly. Simultaneously, he is our day-to-day

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A lighthouse project with radiant effect: Bründl’s newly opened flagship store in Kaprun serves as the company’s innovation centre.

What works here will be rolled out in other branches.

market researcher, who proactively seeks contact with customers. He acts as a seismograph, yet also a salesperson with responsibility for a department.

This is the only way to gain credibility within the team.

Is M3 a blueprint for other Bründl stores?

In part. In Ischgl, for example, we almost exclusively welcome guests who place great value on personal service that extends far beyond our store. In a store of that size in such a prominent location, we can centralise a concierge as a service hub that provides our customers inside information about topics such as snow hikes, ski huts, and outdoor adventures.

In many respects, Kaprun defines state-of-the-art within the Bründl universe. The same applies to sustainability. We have established seven topical touchpoints, intentionally left plenty of open space, and opted for a completely new media concept.

This is definitely an innovation that we will introduce into all stores, as content can be readily rolled out via films, for example.

To what extent do all your other stores benefit from the expertise rollout from the innovation lab in Kaprun?

Over the last four years, our employee app has developed into an incredibly efficient tool to share best practices, exchange magic moments, and

communicate directly with all people at Bründl. We now conduct most e-learning courses and product training sessions via the app and motivate our team by sharing achievements, as well as positive and negative insights.

All-encompassing experiences – the magic moments – are a key component of the new flagship store. However, this experience must satisfy completely different needs today. Gamification is the buzzword. What experience do you hope to offer your customers in Kaprun?

We approach the topic of experience differently.

Instead of piling on more and more, our principle is: reduce to the max. We aim to draw people into a different world. We have no interest in creating a flashy Las Vegas atmosphere, including sensory overload. Our goal is to decelerate our sales floors.

Our kids’ department is a prime example. It used to be equipped with touch terminals, but we replaced them with colouring books, a slide, and a climbing wall. Obviously, we also harness screens to integrate nature into the store via images, but we do not use them for advertisements. We strive to engage our customers in what we call a sensual flow. Nobody buys under stress. Retailing entails a “change of state” – we need to invite customers into our “zone” to activate the dopamine in their brains. This is easier to achieve with less stimuli, which is why we have massively reduced product pressure. The store now exudes a certain lightness and the time our customers spend with us has increased substantially.

What is, in your personal opinion, the lifeblood of this lighthouse project in Kaprun?

People are the distinguishing element and the determining factor whether customers buy or not.

Retail is a people business. There are still plenty of customers who do not want to buy from a machine, who do not want to click. They want to touch, talk, connect, and feel. For them, online shopping is a sad monologue. style in progress

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Passionately

ANALOGUE. THAT'S THE FUTURE. A plea for stationary retail: nothing in the premium segment surpasses multi-brand stores that are capable of turning shopping into a physical experience. This is where retailers are passionate hosts, where customers receive their full attention while falling in love with fashion face-to-face. Can anything surpass that in the future?

Surely not, right?

Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: Interviewees

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udith Luger has been running her store, initially founded by her parents in 1957, in Hard on Lake Constance in Austria since the late 1970s.

The business measures 250 square metres and has six employees. “I love my store as much as I did on the very first day,” the entrepreneur says. “Every season, I am excited to see what I will discover during the order process and look forward to presenting the new merchandise to my customers. They, in turn, love enjoying a pleasant stay at Luger Mode, exchanging ideas, and returning home happy with their purchases at the end of the day.” Being passionately analogue is Judith Luger’s motto and recipe for success.

THE FUTURE IS HYBRID

“Purchases thrive on the appreciation that people bestow on each other,” says Marc Ramelow. He, too, is an avowed retailer driven by passion, currently operating an online shop and nine branches in northern Germany, ranging in size from 400 to 5,500 square metres. All premises are based on the same principle: “As a customer, am I smiled at in the store? Is someone showing genuine interest in me? This is exactly where stationary retail comes into its own.” Without doubt, the online sector continues to grow. Is and will stationary retail remain relevant? “Yes, but as a hybrid concept including the digital sphere,” Ramelow answers. “Today’s competition is more about processes than about products. Customers’ desires range from swift, efficient, and inexpensive to demanding an actual experience. Fashion shopping in particular is a highly subjectively experienced, personal, and emotional process. And our employees are the ones who shape it.”

The Boys Don’t Cry menswear store in the Saint-Germain quarter of Paris resembles a playground of creativity. “We love to surprise,” says image director Felix Boehm. The average customer is between 25 and 40 years old and appreciates the special selection that is not available online: extravagant high fashion by Marni, Lemaire, or JW Anderson, for example, complemented by independent magazines, art, and design books. “Many people visit us specifically because of these magazines and books,” says Boehm. He attracts a community interested in fashion and art, as well as tourists who are less interested in sightseeing than in experiencing the Parisian way of life.

Even for Boehm, however, the BDC online shop is indis-

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pensable. “Many customers use it to obtain information in advance and then ask if we have the pieces in the store to try them on. One example is the Bode jacket made of recycled kitchen towels, which looks very special on the hanger yet really knows how to convince when worn.”

OFFLINE GOES ONLINE AND VICE VERSA

Wait and See in Milan has become a place of pilgrimage and longing for fashion enthusiasts. The niche is filled with unique, colourful fashion ranging from high-street to premium at affordable prices – always presented with a tongue-and-cheek attitude. Can such a special place only succeed offline? Not necessarily. The concept revolves around the personality and stylistic confidence of owner Uberta Zambeletti, who has succeeded in translating the vibrant spirit of Wait and See into a web shop. “When you pour so much love, effort, passion, and affection into something, you want it to grow. E-commerce makes that possible,” she explains. “We generally adopt a very data-oriented approach and also devote considerable time and effort to data analysis.” The strategy is paying dividends. The ratio of international Wait and See customers has increased from 20 percent to 60 percent since the online shop was launched in 2020. While extensive marketing measures are indispensable, service remains the essential element. “Even online, we ensure that someone is around to provide styling and sizing advice seven days a week,” Zambeletti reveals. “I have learned how important it is to guide customers in the store.”

STORYTELLING

Being available to customers in person and being passionately analogue as a result is something that is engrained in Franz Grasegger’s DNA. When he took over the 1,800-square-metre family business in Garmisch-Partenkirchen in 2010, he deliberately decided against an online shop on the grounds that the Trachten and alpine fashion niche is best sold in person on the sales floor.

“We have expanded this core competence even more; we can now tell a background story for every piece,” Grasegger explains. The storytelling angle is proving very successful online too. Grasegger’s Instagram feed invites followers into the Trachten universe. “This part of the business is managed by small teams who also work on the sales floor – three employees between 20 and 25 years of style in progress

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age,” Grasegger reveals. “Those of us who share a story on Insta need to know how we tell that same story in the store. It needs to dovetail perfectly. We deliberately allow for freedom so that the tasks can be solved on one’s own initiative. Sometimes I am surprised how well this is received and that it helps us gain new customers.” An open corporate culture is essential for Grasegger. For him, this also includes inviting young employees to order trips whenever possible. Luger, who asks her niece Clara Böhler to accompany her to orders as often as possible, clearly shares his opinion. “She started helping out in the store as a teenager and knows exactly how our customers tick. I can learn plenty from her and vice versa. She opened my eyes to a new angle many times,” the store owner smiles. “The bottom line is that we two assemble a great product mix that delights both young and old.”

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1 Marc Ramelow, CEO Ramelow 2 Franz Grasegger, Managing Director Grasegger 3 Judith Luger, owner Luger Mode 4 Uberta Zambeletti, owner Wait and See 5 Felix Boehm, Image Director Boys Don’t Cry

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The industry knows Ramelow as someone who attaches great importance to staff training and strives to inspire young people to take up the profession. Are young people also willing to shop in a stationary store? “Absolutely.

They may be online all the time, but they still appreciate the value of a face-to-face exchange,” Ramelow claims.

However, the approach needs to be different. “Our store offers an excellent W-LAN connection, which attracts a few 13-year-olds who stream videos on our sofa. As a salesperson, I have a choice to make. Does that annoy me? Or should I offer them a Fritz Coke and strike up a conversation? This eye-to-eye approach towards young people is completely different from what we were taught in the past. It is becoming significantly more differentiated. Those who fail to understand that will have problems attracting young talent.” Despite the poor image of the sales profession, Ramelow sees many opportunities for self-expression. “The job can involve partying with customers in the evening, inviting your friends, or enjoying music and catering,” he describes with infectious enthusiasm. “We need to talk about these aspects to improve the image of the profession. This is where the fun begins. And selling an outfit at 9pm comes with a handsome reward.”

Grasegger is utterly convinced that his store will still be located in the pedestrian zone of Garmisch-Partenkirchen 20 years from now. But he is equally convinced that change will remain an ever-present factor. The new website was launched in November. If Grasegger is satisfied with its performance, an online shop will follow. Digital services are self-evident for him, as long as they support the sales experience in the store – unobtrusively in the background so as not to disturb the homely atmosphere in the store. “I can envision the expansion of Graseggerwelt, with an integrated concept store for furniture, or even an area dedicated to hospitality,” says Grasegger.

“We intend to remain true to our slogan: House of the traditional and contemporary. In order to commit to the present, you need to think about tomorrow.”

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HANDSTICH

“STATIONARY RETAILERS ARE OUR BRAND AMBASSADORS” Instead of making a splash, Hand­ stich primarily focuses on providing products with depth and sophisticated details. This predestines the brand for stationary specialised retailers. Where better to experience the collection than in a store?

Interview: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: Handstich

André Berger perceives Handstich as a brand that creates an instore experience.

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ndré, why is Handstich, as a special niche product, predestined for owner-managed retail?

André Berger, owner of Handstich: Smaller retailers and their staff in particular have great passion for the product, which they are happy to pass on to their customers. We perceive this specifically in our own concept store, which we opened a year ago in Seefeld near our headquarters. The first impression a jacket makes on the hanger is not necessarily decisive. The magic happens when a salesperson invites the customer to try it on. A man in a quilted jacket by Handstich appears to stand taller, with a certain sense of pride. Such a moment can only be created and experienced live in a store, face-to-face with a salesperson. As a brand that is not particularly well-known, we need the salesperson as an ambassador who can explain to customers what Handstich has to offer.

What do you offer, for example?

Our jackets have always been very carefully conceived, but they have evolved and are now visually more streamlined and relaxed than before. Look and feel are sartorially influenced, although the typical Handstich elements are now more evident in the elaborate interior of the jacket, be it the colour or a colour-contrasting inner pocket. This shows that we have given careful thought to what the wearer really needs. The inside is aligned with the outside: the detailing remains, even in the exciting mix of materials that is now more tonal in terms of colour. We stick to a modern layering look: down continues to take centre stage and is complemented by wool, corduroy, canvas, and cotton gabardine, for example in shirts designed as overshirts and hybrid jacket types featuring hoods and lambskin elements.

We also present leggings in leather for women.

Suppose I come to your store as a customer. What will I be told about Handstich? What is the story?

Let me give you an example. Just the other day, a customer told me that three generations of her family now exclusively wear Handstich jackets, because they enjoy the product immensely and feel so comfortable in it. These moments feed into our story, because Handstich is meant to represent a certain lifestyle as a favourite piece.

Handstich is ten years old. What comes next?

We feel comfortable in our role as the underdog. Instead of making a splash, we allow the products to speak for

Excellent look and feel created by sophisticated workmanship.

Handstich pieces retail at prices between 400 and 800 Euros.

themselves. That remains our core brand message, which is now being promoted by new sales partners such as Markus Kimpfler and Axel Bayer in Bavaria and Marcus Heck of Agentur Wagner in Western and Northern Germany. Both appreciate our product values greatly and understand the essence of the brand. Together we hope to find the right brand ambassadors in the retail sector who will help us share the Handstich story.

Handstich’s own concept store in Seefeld hosts other fashion collections and stocks regional gourmet products.

Simultaneously, it serves as an example for soft shop solutions with retail partners.

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Among

OURSELVES Personal encounters are invaluable – this realisation is irrevocable. Retail is a touchpoint in the most literal sense of the word.

It is where people come into contact with brands and consumption is energised anew. Face-to-face, in an exchange among equals, is where the spark is ignited.

Text: Stefanie Buchacher, Janaina Engelmann-Brothànek, Kay Alexander Plonka, Martina Müllner-Seybold, Nicoletta Schaper

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ATELIER DI GALA/MONTECATINI ALTO

Art, Design, Tailoring

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Part studio, part concept store: Simona Gala Baronti has transformed her workspace into a magical haven for aesthetes.

Atelier di Gala Via Mordini 14, Montecatini Alto/Italy www.simonagalabaronti.com, IG: @simonagalabaronti Opening: 2015 Owner: Simona Gala Baronti Sales area: approx. 50 sqm Brands: Gala di Simona Baronti, Bitossi, Doing Goods, Seletti

Photos: Atelier di Gala

telier di Gala was launched in 2015 by Simona Gala Baronti to serve as a physical space for her ideas, creations, and collections. Here, in Montecatini Alto, the interior and fashion designer, architect, and illustrator presents and sells fabrics, furnishings, books, stationery, and clothing – or, as she herself puts it: “projects and fantasies”.

Strolling through the medieval alleyways of the small Italian village, one soon spots the unique studio that immediately catches the eye: everything about it feels fresh, vibrant, and appealing. Selected design pieces by Bitossi or Seletti, handmade dolls, t-shirts with celebrity quotes from film, literature, and music are displayed alongside skirts, overalls, and organic cotton kimonos featuring illustrated likenesses of Frida Kahlo, David Bowie, or Edith Piaf.

In this magical little concept store, visitors can sense attention to detail in every corner. Almost everything was conceived and implemented by Simona Gala Baronti personally, even the store design. All items, whether furnishings or collection pieces, are manufactured locally and sustainably. “My fashion, my art pieces, and designs all adhere to the ‘kilometro zero’ principle, meaning they are sourced directly from the region, eliminating long delivery routes.” This approach benefits customers, as “sold out” or “no longer available in this size” are not part of the universal artist’s vocabulary anymore. Items can be reproduced within a few days upon customer request.

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Jan and Berit Petersdorf are passionate fashion retailers who know exactly what they are doing.

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ANGELO’S/HAMBURG

Two Picture-Perfect Stores Berit and Jan Petersdorf pursue a highly creative approach for Angelo’s. They develop a coherent fashion cosmos that convinces customers with its uniqueness.

Photos: Angelo’s

Carefully conceived to the last detail: the product ranges of the two neighbouring Angelo’s stores reveal an enthusiasm for fashion and an eye for detail.

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he morning begins with the best coffee in town, procured from neighbouring Cafébar Favorita. “That is our ritual,” says Berit Petersdorf, who runs Angelo’s with Jan Petersdorf. A lively, mixed neighbourhood has developed between Eppendorf and Eimsbüttel, attracting clientele from all over the city. Angelo’s offers two worlds of fashion, for women and men. The couple pursues their ambitions with focus and passion. “We make the order process as difficult as possible for ourselves,” laughs Berit Petersdorf. “If possible,

we attend all trade fairs and view all items before we order.

Then we take photos to compile possible outfits.” The diversity of 60 suppliers is transformed into an inspiring whole. Core brands in the men‘s department include Blue de Gênes, Powell Chinos, Strellson, Phil Petter, and Bob. The foundation for the ladies is formed by Mason’s and White Sand. Chloe Stora and Pierre-Louis Mascia provide a twist to the range, complemented by ready-to-wear fashion by Hamburg-based designer duo Harm Jopp. The store even develops its own styles with the latter. “We often welcome whole families, meaning that no less than three generations can find something interesting,” Berit Petersdorf explains. “We succeed in doing so because we offer a wide range and aim to make the customers happy.” A family from Münster visited just the other day. “The mother entered the store classically dressed and left beaming with a purple coat and a bronze silk top. It is wonderful to see our efforts and courage pay off!”

Angelo’s Eppendorfer Weg 217, Hamburg/ Germany, www.angelos.de Opening: November 1989 Owner: Jan Petersdorf Managing Director: Berit Petersdorf Sales area: 180 sqm Brands for women: among others Cambio, Chloe Stora, Des Petit Hauts, Harm Jopp, Love Joy Victory, Majestic, Mason’s, Pierre-Louis Mascia, Scaglione Brands for men: among others Blue de Gênes, Bob, Fil Noir, Outhere, Phil Petter, Powell, Scaglione, Seldom, Strellson, Trusted Handwork, White Sand

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Bettina Ritter has fulfilled a dream by opening her own store.

BETTINA RITTER NO 13/ESSLINGEN

Perfect Match

Bettina Ritter has a crystal-clear concept for her new store: She develops a product range around a few key brands that can be flexibly adapted to the tastes of her customers.

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ever overwhelm customers with volume. For Bettina Ritter, this is part of the self-declared guiding principle for her new store, which comes across as bright, small, and friendly. The fashion range on offer comes in friendly colours and rather clean designs: a cardigan by Catalano or a jersey piece by Bobi, always at prices that still appeal to customers.

Both are core brands within the range, complemented by jeans by

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Photos: Steffen Roller

The store is bright, cheerful, and friendly. Fashion is meant to be fun.

The Nim in beautiful washes that cut an excellent figure, as well as home wear by Via Milano. The accessories on display are suited to personal use or as gifts, for example jewellery by Girl’s Best Friends and Circle of Life, or candles. The entire product range is meant to remain flexible and tailored to the customers’ needs.

New items are introduced every fortnight at the latest, such as the label LJV, which specialises in soft cotton pieces featuring sub-

tle details. “My aim is not simply to sell fashion, but to ensure that it gives pleasure,” says Bettina Ritter. She used to work as a paralegal, but now she considers fashion retailing her vocation and her own store a heartfelt commitment. The neighbourhood is equally ideal for the native of Baden-Württemberg; it boasts beautiful old buildings, charming cafés, and restaurants.

“The fact that I found a space here in the old town to realise

my project makes me the happiest person on earth.”

The store is open from Thursday to Saturday. Bettina Ritter devotes the rest of the week to ordering, her family including her two daughters, and walking through the vineyards with her two Labradors. Combining both worlds is her perfect match.

Bettina Ritter No 13 Küferstrasse 26, Esslingen/Germany, www.ritter-bettina.de Opening: July 2021 Owner: Bettina Ritter Sales area: 80 sqm Brands: among others Bobi, Catalano, LJV, The Nim Denim, Via Milano

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Photos: Kauri

The vaulted cellar of the historic building in Bolzano’s old town creates an impressive ambience.

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KAURI/BOLZANO & BRESSANONE

Responsible Innovation The South Tyrolean Kauri stores in Bolzano and Bressanone offer customers a comprehensive range of products that meets criteria such as fairness, sustainability, health, and a respectful approach to the environment. The team headed by founders Daniel Tocca and Bernhard Schönhuber leads by example by promoting a conscious lifestyle.

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ur society needs positive stimuli. We must make the right choices that help reduce the environmental impact of the fashion industry.

There simply cannot be a future for everyone and everything, so we need to think carefully and choose wisely,” explains Daniel Tocca. “We, for our part, strive to raise awareness for high-quality products.”

The kauri plant, one of the largest tree species worldwide, served as inspiration for the naming of the four stores that were opened in 2019, 2020, and most recently in 2021 as a flagship store at Natur & Spa Hotel Forestis and in Bolzano’s famous Laubengasse. These trees have been preserved in swamps, where they have survived for 20,000 to 50,000 years without rotting or fossilising. The wood

The team surrounding Daniel Tocca and Bernhard Schönhuber doesn’t want to just preach conscious consumption, but also live it.

is considered the most environmentally friendly timber in the world, as it does not necessitate deforestation and represents a symbol of care, quality, nature, conservation, and re-use. True to the slow fashion mantra of “Buy Less, Buy Better”, the 360° stores not only stock fashion and accessories for women and men alongside organic clothing for babies and children, but also natural cosmetics and care products by the likes of Ben & Anna, Manucurist, and Hillinger Cosmetics. They also showcase home and lifestyle accessories such as stainless-steel drinking bottles and reusable beeswax cloths, as well as food items including teas, spices, organic chocolate, and fair-trade coffee. Founder Bernhard Schönhuber elaborates on the Kauri concept: “My vision is to contribute to a better world in my own small way by managing a sustainable business model for all stakeholders.” Marketing manager Sara Pacifici adds: “I opted for joining the Kauri concept because I feel this is my chance to improve the status quo on our planet and spread the message of green economy.”

With success: Soon after the opening of the store, Kauri was able to switch to a larger location in Bolzanos famous “Lauben”.

Kauri Store Via Bottai/Bindergasse 1A, Bolzano/Italy Laubengasse 72, Bolzano/Italy Via S. Croce/Kreuzgasse 13, Bressanone/Italy Flagship store at Hotel Forestis, Palmschoss 292, Bressanone/Italy www.kauristore.com Brands: 2g8er, A Beautiful Story, Adam, Airpaq, Another Brand, Atelier Alpiniste, Calida, Cora Happywear, Ecoalf, Erdbär, Eticlò, Freitag, Lanius, Nikon, Par.co Denim, Re-Bello, Rewoolution, Supernatural, Xacus

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Allessandra Cuschié and her husband Torsten Müller are the creators of the three Room Nine shops in Bonn.

The Loft by Room Nine encourages exploration.

THE LOFT BY ROOM NINE/BONN

I’ll Take That!

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The Loft by Room Nine Breite Strasse 43, Bonn/Germany, www.roomnine.de Opening: June 2021 Owner: Allessandra Cuschié Sales area: 220 sqm Brands: Bloomingville, Becksöndergaard, Doing Goods, Gestalten, HK Living, Hübsch, Octaevo, Ottolenghi by Serax, Serax, Sal de Ibiza, The Gift Label, Voluspa, WOUF

Photos: The Loft by Room Nine

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s it a good idea to open a third store in the midst of a crisis? “In for a penny, in for a pound,” says Torsten Müller of Room Nine Fashion Agency. Those who know him and his wife, Allessandra Cuschié, better, can testify to the fact that the duo are true entrepreneurs who are willing to work hard for their success. Lo and behold, the store, which was launched in June, is already buzzing, not least because word has spread that The Loft by Room Nine is closely affiliated with the two established Room Nine fashion boutiques. The store stocks pretty items that one may not have looked for, but one nevertheless buys for oneself or as a gift. There are bowls and mugs, plant pots by HK Living, kitchen utensils by Bloomingville, dip-dye candles, vases, greeting cards, chewing gum, and Chips de Madrid. The latter are a bestseller due to the cool graphic design on their packaging. “Mugs and bowls sell fastest,” reveals Müller, who works in The Loft on Saturdays. “Ottolenghi’s cookbooks and his Serax tableware are also super popular, especially as we stock them exclusively in Bonn.”

The location is incredibly charming. A small space facing the street showcases costume jewellery. If you walk past it and through the gateway, you enter a leafy backyard. All home accessories are selected by Cuschié, who has an excellent eye for what could be popular without being too commercial. “Many people shop in our fashion stores before stopping here to browse for gifts,” Müller says. He is already looking forward to April, when the famous cherry blossoms of Breite Strasse attract thousands of tourists – and thus potential customers. “But this project has been fun all along.”

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A HAPPY PLACE/MUNICH

Marketplace With Happiness Guarantee

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he original idea was to support small designers by providing a showroom. The result, however, is an extraordinary and fascinating concept store or, in owner Phaedra Richter’s own words, “an oasis”. As an illustrator, textile designer and artist herself, Richter has always dreamed of a place “where you can find design pieces, the labels are affordable, and the designers are adequately rewarded”. As the name suggests, the store aims to make everyone who is looking for special things happy, including the designers and the owner. At A Happy Place, all designers contribute to the store‘s costs with a fixed flat rate and, in return, receive all sales proceeds. Today, the store stocks beautiful pieces from more than 90 small labels, emerging artists, social projects, and local creatives – from fashion, accessories, and jewellery, to decorations and design objects.

“I select people and labels very carefully, even though I have plenty of applicants,” says Richter. “I prefer to keep my product range exclusive in order to avoid internal competition. The items and products I chase are from people and labels with small-scale productions.” Incidentally, this approach sustained Richter during the second lockdown. While her store had to remain closed, all members continued to pay their share of the fixed costs. This allowed Richter to focus on her online presence and she promptly launched a digital marketplace that now goes far beyond the stationary range. All affiliated designers can use the platform for a small monthly fee and thus supply their customers with their designs directly.

Photos: A Happy Place

Phaedra Richter describes her store in Munich as “an oasis”.

A Happy Place Parkstr. 4, Munich/Germany, www.ahappy.place Opening: June 2021, Owner: Phaedra Richter, Sales area: 90 sqm Brands: Achiy, Adieu Cliche, Anatolian Design, Anotherbrand, Form Of Interest, Frieda mit Herz, hey hey studios, Hyres, Knits, Lovem Kids, Maniq, Marie Lorence, Muse von Sagiha, Radu Baias, Stefanie Bauer Stefanie Pietsch, Studio Ciao, Süsskind, The Life Barn, The Sept Label, whywhywhy, ZITA Products, Zurück Upcycling

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BUBBLES AND TROUBLES/MONTECATINI TERME

It’s Good To Be a Child

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n the farthest reaches of Italy, somewhere between Lucca and Florence, a former sales manager and a retail expert recently plucked up the courage to open a shop for children’s clothing after almost two years of pandemic. This is, however, not an ordinary store, but a place where parents and children actually enjoy spending time while finding the perfect outfit for the little ones. Bubbles and Troubles also offers workshops: customising clothes, upcycling old pieces, and even theatre and painting classes. The collections that suit this concept are almost all local and, of course, sustainable – this is particularly important to owners Ewa Kowalska and Catia Labanca. The idea seems to be working. The store has developed into a “place to be” since its launch in September 2021, not only for people from the surrounding countryside. Even families from major cities happily make the journey to Montecatini to visit Bubbles and Troubles for a spot of shopping. Why is the concept so successful?

Because it offers parents what they crave most: experienced retailers with excellent taste, as well as a penchant for details, elegance, and fairness while always focusing on the child. At Bubbles and Troubles, it’s great to be a child!

Catia Labanca and Ewa Kowalska with their children, who inspired them to create Bubbles and Troubles.

The design of Bubbles and Troubles is colourful and child-friendly.

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Photos: Bubbles and Troubles

Bubbles and Troubles Via S. Martino 31/33, Montecatini Terme/Italy, IG: @bubblesandtroubleskids Opening: 2021, Owners: Ewa Kowalska, Catia Labanca Sales area: approx. 70 sqm Brands: Ammehoelia, Bobo Choses, Bon Ton, Collegién, Frugi, Giroquadro, I dig denim, Liewood, Louis Louis Paris, Not only Monday, One more in the family, Play up, We are the new society, Weekend house kids

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Architect Chris Precht is a sustainability pioneer – the perfect person to implement room with a view’s vision for its home of ecological lifestyle.

Iris and Christian Obojes are true entrepreneurs: their own store in Salzburg’s Europark is the next logical step after twenty years of running a sales agency and ten years of managing Warm-Me.

room with a view home of ecological lifestyle Europark, Salzburg/Austria www.roomwithaview.com Owners: Iris and Christian Obojes Sales area: 100 sqm Brands: Casall, Colorful Standard, Ecoalf, Ein guter Plan, Erdbär, Organic Basics, Veja

ROOM WITH A VIEW/SALZBURG

Everything Is Energy

Photos: Studio Friedrich

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hree partners, each contributing their very own specific qualities. room with a view’s flagship store, which opened last year, builds on the pioneering work already undertaken by Salzburg-based sustainability brand Erdbär. The connection to room with a view was established via Iris Obojes, who has served as head buyer for the label’s multi-brand store for several seasons. Together with Christian Obojes, the idea was born to combine all competences in one project, thus creating a new dimension. “Everything fell into place so perfectly,” says Iris Obojes. In collaboration with internationally acclaimed Studio Precht, which specialises in sustainable construction, the patrons broke with many conventions. It starts with the choice of location for the store specialising in sustainable fashion: a shopping centre! Eye-rolling among

the eco-chic community? Maybe, but room with a view’s store proves that it is possible to create an oasis of peace in one of Europe’s busiest shopping temples. The first surprise element is a storefront that is, except for a few small hatches, completely concealed. Then there is a green wall, from which a spiral that leads into the store interior emerges. Ceiling-high, deep shelves spaced far apart break with traditional visual patterns. Even items that can only be reached by ladder suddenly seem wholly desirable. “It is a place that encourages discovery,” says Iris Obojes. “We regard the shop as a space for brands and customers alike.

Both parties can experience reality here.” The first requests to duplicate the concept arrived shortly after the grand opening. “It proves that we have created something truly unique,” says Christian Obojes. style in progress

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INGLA/ROSENHEIM

Out of Rosenheim In the heart of Rosenheim’s old town, Emily Laner runs her grandparents’ shoe store as a modern concept store in its third generation. She and her parents, Maria and Michael, are always willing to innovate. They will soon launch a proprietary app, for example.

New experience: Emily Laner transfers her store’s stationary range to a proprietary app.

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derful space of inspiration and dreams where no wishes are left unfulfilled. The customers are our guests, and we want them to leave our shop with a smile and pleasant memories,” Laner says.

She and her staff present different outfits and new arrivals on the store’s social media channels every day. Fans are also treated to behind-the-scenes footage, e.g. from order trips.

“A mirrored online shop will act as the foundation for our new app, but the latter will be equipped with additional features. Later, people will be able to specify their favourite brands, enabling us to send out personalised push notifications when there are new launches, for example. The app will incorporate more storytelling and an extra tab for inspirational blog posts, which will resemble a small online magazine introducing ready-to-wear total looks, footwear, accessories, matching beauty products, and interiors.

We will also post entries about our order trips, where you can buy our personal favourite looks directly. The app is being developed primarily for our existing customers, as well as Ingla fans who want to immerse themselves more deeply in the subject matter. We expect it to increase customer loyalty and, of course, revenue growth.”

Ingla Concept Store Ingla Schuhmoden Renal GmbH Gillitzerstraße 1, Rosenheim/Germany www.ingla.de Sales area: approx. 300 sqm Employees: 9 Brands: A. S. 98, Anine Bing, Ash, AGL Attilio Giusti Leombruni, Axel Arigato, Baum und Pferdgarten, Birkenstock, Buttero, Byredo, Copenhagen Studios, Diptyque, Dr. Martens, Ganni, Ilse Jacobsen, Inuikii, JW Anderson, Kennel & Schmenger, Lakrids by Bülow, Miista, Mou, Movie’s, Nanushka, Officine Creative, Philippe Model, Pomme D´Or, Pons Quintana, Puma, Pura López, Ras, Samsøe Samsøe, See by Chloé, Stetegia, Tosca Blus, Triver Flight, Ulla Johnson, Unisa , United Nude, Verbenas, Watson & Partker, What For, Yuzefi, Woolrich

Photos: Ingla

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y grandmother and grandfather founded Ingla almost 50 years ago with the passionate intention to bring the most beautiful contemporary shoes to Germany. The name Ingla is a tribute to my grandma Inge Laner,” explains Emily Laner, who is responsible for purchasing and e-commerce within the family business. Following the second lockdown in June 2021, Ingla reopened as a concept store featuring many new brands and product groups. The numerous large shop windows mean plenty of daylight floods the corner shop, which boasts a contemporary look due to high and open ceilings, flowing screed floors, and clean metal elements.

Materials such as brass, wood, and velvet guarantee a pleasant atmosphere. The ultimate eye-catcher is the lounge area featuring a large moss wall and relaxing designer armchairs.

“Our Ingla concept is approachable, inspiring, and enthralling. We not only strive to sell beautiful items, but also touch people by offering them a won-

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Post-lockdown relaunch: the shoe store evolves into a concept store.

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EDITOR'S LETTER

Concerning I Versus We Football is a sport governed by rules. In fact, the sport only works as such because there is a clear set of rules, and because any violation is sanctioned accordingly. Part of the fascination of football entails the discussion about the sense or interpretation of some of these rules, but no one in their right mind would argue that these regulations should not apply to them because they unduly restrict the individual right to hack someone down, or the personal freedom to linger in an offside position. Those who refuse to abide by the rules are simply no longer allowed to play.

Incidentally, this does not mean that every rule in football constitutes an indisputable reality for all time. It merely means that we cannot create our own individual rules, because that would destroy the game.

Admittedly, a free, democratic society, and this is precisely the kind we have the privilege of living in, is much more complex than the (second) most beautiful triviality in the world. But it is precisely this complexity that makes the basic consensus that democratically or legally sanctioned rules must apply to everyone all the more important. Even if one may personally consider them to be wrong, and perhaps justifiably so. There can only be two ways to change rules, in other words laws. Namely, through a judicial process or through legislation, and thus ultimately through democratic elections. A society in which everyone elevates the I over the WE – and attempts to sell this egoism as moral superiority – is doomed to failure. This does not only apply to the necessary debate about the best way to get this accursed virus under control, but to all large and small issues that we as a society have to negotiate on a permanent basis. The crucial aspect is to engage in real conversation, instead of merely yelling apodictic opinions about each other at each other.

When, at this point, I share my conviction – which is not new to you, dear readers – that fashion needs places of encounter, in other words trade shows, then this may seem like a rather sharp thematic arc. However, I truly believe

ABOUT US

Publisher, Editorial Office, Advertising Department and Owner style in progress B2B Media GmbH Paracelsusstraße 4/1/7 5020 Salzburg, Austria info@style-in-progress.com www.style-in-progress.com facebook.com/styleinprogressonline

Management Stephan Huber

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Editors-in-chief Stephan Huber stephan@style-in-progress.com Martina Müllner-Seybold martina@style-in-progress.com Editorial Staff Stefanie Buchacher Petrina Engelke Janaina Engelmann-Brothánek Isabel Faiss Kay Alexander Plonka Nicoletta Schaper Art Direction, Design, Production Elisabeth Prock-Huber elisabeth@style-in-progress.com

that personal exchange is more important than ever, especially in the context of the zoomification of our everyday lives and an ever more pronounced phygital reality. Our industry is in the throes of the biggest transformation since the advent of ready-to-wear and industrial mass production respectively. We can best take advantage of the enormous opportunities this transformation offers by participating as a community. The I does not diminish in relevance if one maintains focus on the WE. Quite the opposite.

I wish you all a bold and successful season! And I look forward to meeting as many of you as possible in person.

Best regards, Stephan Huber stephan@style-in-progress.com P.S.: Allow me to add a very personal note. This issue of style in progress is exceptional, both in content and volume. This is the result of a herculean joint effort.

I would therefore like to express my heartfelt gratitude to my fantastic team, to all my equally impressive partners, and – last but not least – to you, dear readers.

Without you, none of this would be possible. style in progress is the definition of WE!

Advertising Stephan Huber stephan@style-in-progress.com Advertising Representatives Berlin: Kay Alexander Plonka kay@style-in-progress.com Italy: Janaina Engelmann-Brothánek janaina@style-in-progress.com Accounting Verena Wigoutschnig verena@style-in-progress.com Online Editor/Newsletter Veronika Zangl veronika@style-in-progress.com

Image Editor Johannes Hemetsberger English Translations Manfred Thurner Editing Georgmaria Prock Printing sandlerprint&packaging 3671 Marbach, Austria Printing Coordinator Manfred Reitenbach Next Issue 29 June 2022