streetwear today no.34 - fixedgearlondon

No 34

ISSN 1860-9996 | D € 5,00 | USA $ 10,00 | UK £ 6,00 | SKR 70 | NKR 85 E, F, I € 9,00 | A, B, L, NL € 6,00 | CHF 10 | CNY 100 | HKD 80 | JPY 1400

INTERNATIONAL STYLES

STW2D No. 34 IV | 2010: OCTOBER, NOVEMBER, DECEMBER „WOW, HOW DID YOU GET HERE?“- FIXED GEAR LONDON AMERICAN LOVE MACHINE | ALOE BLACC | PLASTIKGOLD | 3SIXTEEN | NORSE PROJECTS | ...

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Distribution: saeckundnolde.de

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streetwear today VI | 2010

Prefix – Wow, how did you get here?

Dear Readers, This issue stw2d No 34 features as a coverstory Fixed Gear London, a posse of friends riding the hell out of there bikes and bones. Riding those bikes is cool and the look of them reflects the needs, the likes and demands of their riders. A Story about this riding phenomena was overdue since a while as well as a talk with Andy Ellis and all his Crew Members. Sure we have a lot more fotoshootings and clothing that reflect the signs of time in this Holiday season and issue.

Also i would like to point out that we had a very successful first stw2d live issue. This happened in September in a beautiful Location called „Rotunde“ in Bochum. 9 Days it was a place of exhibitions, events and party happenings.

Contributing people and supporters we want to thank have been: Levi’s Curved ID, Stussy, Alife, Adidas / Star Wars, WeSC, Asics, Obey, Onitsuka Tiger, The Zonders, Element, Kangaroos, Nike SB, New Balance, Creathief, Monkey Drive, Intro, Veltins, Satis&Fy, Lemonaid, Chairytea, Held Vodka, Schwarze Dose, The Good Will Out, Fashion Moda Hype Gallery, Arty Farty Gallery, Chrom Gallery, Spacejunk Gallery, Feines Tier, Actiontoys, All City Styles, Sneakerness, Fauxami, Skateboardfieber, Freaks of Nature, Made for Skate, Nils Müller, Fabian Stürtz, Jeremy Fish, Parra, 2Sickbastards, Swanski, Delta, Odö, Nicolas Thomas, London Police, Emil Kozak, Marcel Veldman, Panamoe, Orion Pax, Feel Vergnuegen, Yum Yum, Tand Williams, Nahn Solo, Super Super, Kaos, Paul Mogg, Sara Goldfarb, Rafik, Cem, Beatpackers, Jbounce, Patta, Teenage Lady Killers, Jeff Solo, Mc Lentini and those Hands and Friends. For sure i would like to thank those barely 3800 Visitors we had over the 9 days, the 17. to 25.

September. Thank you all!

Gee

Hannibal & Rockford Kabine

Nils Müller, one of our favorite photographers captured the whole event. First we thought to give you these shots in this issue. Unfortunately we had too many good ones, thats why we will have our first special edition of streetwear today coming soon. A Special edition featuring the live issues content and attending people to the fullest. Expect this for the end of October.

But also I would like to take the chance to promote our first iphone application th which is ready to download since 15 September at itunes app store. A full Blast of the archive of streetwear today featuring “best of stw2d” content pocketized for you by digital pocket.

Nuff said, enjoy this issue and watch out for the specials and updates.

Stay tuned Martin Magielka

Martin Magielka

Sara Magielka

Mirko Wagner

Thorsten Dzierma

Streetwear Today the quarterly magazine for international streetstyles office@stw2d.com | www.stw2d.com No 34

ISSN 1860-9996 | D € 5,00 | USA $ 10,00 | UK £ 6,00 | SKR 70 | NKR 85 E, F, I € 9,00 | A, B, L, NL € 6,00 | CHF 10 | CNY 100 | HKD 80 | JPY 1400

INTERNATIONAL STYLES

IMPRINT ISSN 1860-9996 Publisher: Magseven GmbH Alte Hattingerstr. 29 | D-44789 Bochum Tel: + 49 (0) 234.6 23 97 89 office@magseven.biz | www.magseven.biz Editor in Chief: Martin Magielka (V.i.S.d.P.) | mm@stw2d.com Editor: Michael Leuffen [ml] | hml@stw2d.com Editor: Lorenzo Taurino [lt] | lt@stw2d.com Editor: Marcus Welt [mw] | mw@stw2d.com Fashion Editor: Sara Magielka | sm@stw2d.com Fashion Assistance: Meike Ratsch | mr@stw2d.com Design: Conny Langaso | info@langaso.de Advertising Manager: Martin Magielka | mm@stw2d.com Bozo Wecke | bw@stw2d.com The kdu contribution, www.thekdu.net David Gensler, Bobby Jones, Andre Pinard, Tru Pettigrew, Aerosyn-Lex Meštrović, Jared Liner, Lila Anton STW2D No. 34 IV | 2010: OCTOBER, NOVEMBER, DEZEMBER „WOW, HOW DID YOU GET HERE?“- FIXED GEAR LONDON AMERICAN LOVE MACHINE | ALOE BLACC | PLASTIKGOLD | 3SIXTEEN | NORSE PROJECTS | ...

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Further contributors in this issue: Bastian Hessler, Stephan Kallaus, Svenson Linnert, Joe Wyneken, Martin Heck, Alexander Schneider, Lars Borges, Ryan Jerome, Barbara Richter, Stefanie Levers, Moritz Meschonat, Nils Müller, Frank The Butcher

Subscription Service: Sebastian Neuhaus | sn@stw2d.com via www.stw2d.com or use subscription sheet (next to back cover) National distributor (Germany): Stella Distribution GmbH | Frankenstraße 7 | 20097 Hamburg www.stella-distribution.de International distributors: Austria: Morawa Pressevertrieb | www.morawa.com Belgium: AMP | www.ampnet.be Brazil: H.B. Revistas | www.hbrevistas.com.br Great Britain (UK): Emblem Group | eg@stw2d.com Japan: Kaigai Inc. | ki@stw2d.com Netherlands: Betapress B.V. | www.betapress.nl Norway: Listo AB | www.listo.se Spain: Comercial Atheneum | www.atheneum.com Sweden: Svenska Interpress | www.interpress.se Switzerland: Valora AG | www.valora.com Singapore: Basheer Graphic Books | www.basheergraphic.com Thailand: Peng Ha Shieng Co. Ltd. | phs@stw2d.com Circulation: 29.000 copies Printed by: Mediaprint PerCom GmbH We cannot be liable for unrequested material we receive. Unrequested material can be used any time. Reprinting of Streetwear Today – complete or in extracts – only by written agreement. Published features from freelancers mustn et share the opinion of the editorial staff. Place of jurisdiction is Bochum.

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Š 2010 adidas AG. adidas, the Trefoil logo and the 3-Stripes mark are registered trademarks of the adidas Group.

Š 2010 adidas AG. adidas, the Trefoil logo and the 3-Stripes mark are registered trademarks of the adidas Group.

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Š 2010 adidas AG. adidas, the Trefoil logo and the 3-Stripes mark are registered trademarks of the adidas Group.

MEXICO 66 BRG

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>>best of streetwear today<< pocketized exclusively for Apple iPhone and iPod touch.

Titlestorys, People, Scrapbooks, Artistfeatures, Brandfeatures, Lines, Shopfeatures, Videos and Shoots

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STW2D No. 34 | 2010 003 » 010 » 012 »

GSM GERMANY RETAIL GMBH +49 89 327 089 880

streetwear today VI | 2010

Prefix | Well, how did you get here?

This page Mix | Puma, Pointer - Baracuta, Clot - Pam - Disney, Lacoste - Nash, Complete Technique, Dickies shoes, Nooka, NSW

020 »

Title | Fixed Gear London -

Well, how did you get here?

Fixed Gear London

American Love Machine

032 » Lines Shoot | Hydrophyte by Joe Wyneken featuring adidas Originals 040 »

Lines | Amongst Friends, Norse Projects, 3sixteen, Asics - Onitsuka Tiger - Friends and Family

044 »

Shoots | Mask by Bastian Hessler

048 »

Lines | Paul Rodriguez - Prod4,

Element - Emerald Collection 052 »

Shoots | Undercut by Bastian Hessler

064 » Brandfeature | Secondthird, American Love Machine, Plastikgold

Paul Rodriguez

070 »

Shoots | He and himself by Ryan Jerome

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Shoots | Glückliche Gewinner by Martin Heck

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Shoots | Berlin Heat by Svenson Linnert

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Shoots | Fabian Stürtz - Sneakbombing

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Shoots | Near by the Sea by Alexander Schneider

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Media | Woodsis, Superpitcher, Aloe Blac,

Black Mountain 124 »

Event | Wake the Line, Spacejunk,

Eastpak Antidote 130 »

Undercut

by Bastian Hessler

Intern | Subscription

Glückliche Gewinner

by Martin Heck

010 | CONTENT

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Ele_streetw

GSM GERMANY RETAIL GMBH +49 89 327 089 880

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streetwear today VI | 2010

Pointer for Baracuta - Ramsey Raincoat Pointer Footwear has teamed up with a clothing Brand known for casual best of styles. That other Uk Brand listens since more than 50 years to the name Baracuta and suit the likes of style icon Steve McQueen while matching Pointer casuals. What came out?

“The Coat is a new design from Baracuta, the Ramsey Raincoat. It is lined with the first and original 1930’s used by Baracuta at its birth before they introduced the now classic Frasier Tartan. Both the fabric, which is the finest waxed British Milner Rain available, and the jacket itself are made here in the UK. The idea behind the project was the combination of Pointer as a new footwear brand taking its inspiration from classic Baracuta design and styling but injecting it with a modern twist.” www.pointerfootwear.com www.baracuta-g9.com

Puma – velcro strappin‘ The PUMA Suede came up in 1968 and have been worn by athletic greats such as basketball‘s Walt „Clyde“ Frazier and the track‘s Tommie Smith, it rose to new levels of fame in the early days of b-boys and funky beats in the late 70ies and 80ies. This time-honored member of PUMA Archive continues to evolve with the times while maintaining its smooth silhouette, swagger, and grit.

For the Suede Mid Velcro Pack, they fit into time once again. The low-profile legend turns into a high-collared shoe with Velcro straps. This revamped style was originally released in Japan, but this season they release them globally. www.puma.com

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streetwear today VI | 2010

Clot x P.A.M. x Disney - Magic Happens During the past month Edison Chen and Kevin Poon have been busy with a pop-up retail project called „the Man Is In The Forest“. Therefor CLOT is already using some of Disney classic characters into its design, remember the released items in August - Pinocchio cooperated collection with Subcrew. For September, Australian Brand P.A.M. is on the extended list of partners. P.A.M. use its creativity with the mix of bright color impact to design a whole new collection for Disney, this one celebrates Mickey while turning the world up-

side-down with magic. As the project Man Is In The Forest has take the chance to provide you a time to recall those memories with Disney characters they provide same design postcard, to send out to your beloved one!“

www.perksandmini.com www.clotinc.com

Alex Nash for Lacoste - the Bravington mid Mr Nash is already know for some fine taste in sneaker styles as he signs responsible also for a few releases with Nike and DCshoes. There is one which i would even like to mention here as it was the first shoe i saw of him. The nike air max/visvim shoe he did shows what sneaker customization today is all about. Now he comes up with a new shoe style for the Lacoste Brand. It is called Bravington and got my attention with some clean colorways launched already in July. But for November this year he saved the best compositions. The idea behind the style is to twist the DNA of Lacoste with his own view on modern classics. The rapport cupsole unit gets a yachting inspired upper featuring his trademark „whip stitching“ on the vamp while choosing over sized perforation, angular overlays and fabric windows to play around with color and luxury materials. The croco got his space on the side kick and the nash line will be recognized by the logo on the tongue. Eat it. www.lacoste.com II www.nashmoney.com 014 | MIX

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streetwear today VI | 2010

Dickies Footwear – functionality in style The Brand Dickies has a long heritage in mens durable workwear. Those garments had to be sturdy and resistant while being comfortable to spend your working time in it. Tradition meets contemporary concept and design, functionality meets style. With the footwear line they show a glimpse to a world where tailors and craftsmen have been existing for centuries as they have

selected artisans whose experience of manufacturing shoes is passed from father to son. Those people like to work on products who stand for simplicity and durability heading towards a relaxed, stylish but never fancy Look. www.dickies.com

Complete Technique - custom jewelry Complete Technique‘s custom creations are made by uniting design and deft engineering and represents an individual lifestyle that is urban and in touch with music as universal design. Each piece is crafted from 14K/18K Gold or Platinum and constructed with the highest level of technique. The influence has been the street culture of New York City and its pioneers. „This jewelry

collection is modeled on guns of the past, we hope that one day we will not need guns, but we would like to preserve it as jewelry. But also we will have a professional camera miniature collection. We are creating the great design in history“. www.completetechnique.com

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ROOSKICKZ.COM

AVA I L A B L E AT

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streetwear today VI | 2010

NSW - lunar Mixing the past present with future is the biggest trend in streetwear today. For the Nike Sportswear’s Fall/Holiday 2010 collection the designers crawled in the history of running, product philosophies and stories to be inspired for the collection. The design is completed with the needs of today no matter if you run or walk in style through town. The Lunarboot comes along chilled with a duckboot optic while the lunarwood looks speedy enough to get away. The Boot got in shape by the all condition gear design team and the Lunarwood was created with, yeah sure Wood Wood. But this was already launched in Dezember 2009 so this is an update for 2010. www.nikesportwear.com

Nooka – timepieces New York fashion brand, Nooka inc. has created a line of accessories, the Nooka Strip, the Nooka AO and Mercury, to compliment their popular line of timepieces. Each is similar in design aesthetic and material, capable of

accentuating any outfit with their bright colors. Same concept for the shades.

Check this www.nooka.com

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streetwear today VI | 2010

Well, how did you get here?

Everyone knows about fixed gear bikes; we all have one, or know someone who has; we all have opinions on them and our own personal preferences.

Like skateboarding, or graffiti art or sneakers, it’s easy to view them as a core part of modern street culture. Truth is, of course the term fixed gear has only been in common parlance for a few years. Until recently it was the reserve of messengers and pro riders, shrouded in a kind of myth and mystery which secured its underground status for decades. Truth is few of us would even have heard of this uncompromising piece of design if it wasn’t for the enthusiasm and commitment of Fixedgearlondon. Not only have they championed the brakeless bike, they’ve managed to steer it out of the exclusion zone of the cycle messenger and create an exciting and inclusive street culture. Now a force to be reckoned with, having influenced not just street style but the mainstream and surprisingly the crew still seem incredibly unaware of their juice and of their impact.

Streetwear Today talks to the current members of FGL to get a sense of who they are and how they got here.

Fixedgearlondon: Interviews and Introduction by Jason Jules Photographs by Jonathan Winstone, Mike Merkenschlager and Andy Ellis. www.fixedgearlondon.com

Jason Jules talks with Andy Ellis, the main man behind Fixedgearlondon.

Would it be correct in saying that you are the leader of the Fixedgearlondon crew – or is that a misnomer?

Today yes, but probably when it all started – no. It’s evolved and it’s changed.

It’s now more about pushing the 9 people that are involved instead of the 25 odd people that were loosely affiliated – I’m just trying to concentrate on those people and do stuff with those guys.

I always had a feeling at the beginning that it was a Wu tang clan type set up where everyone had a certain role and a certain personality to bring into the mix – is that still the same? Or is it really a kind of creative support system..?

I think that’s changed as well – I mean it was like that in the beginning. I’ve always cared about this 100% and haven’t cared about getting a job or doing anything else because it was my idea I suppose. Whereas other people have kind of built on the fixed association and become involved in other things.

From the beginning, I pictured it as something like a movement – where people come through, they add some kind of energy to it - something that has a significance - and then they move on. In fact maybe as far as the original scene concerned they’ve almost outlived their purpose…

Anyone who’s ever been involved with Fixedgearlondon before is welcome to come back, but yeah, what I realized very early on is that it’s ever, ever changing, constantly evolving.

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What excited you about fixed gear bikes in the beginning?

I studied design and at St Martins you get pummeled into your head what’s good design and what makes good design; form and function - what works and having the right balance. So when I first saw a fixed gear bike and how clean it was on the back end - that you could have it without any brakes – it was more of a design type thing that excited me. If you take anything more away it doesn’t work, if you add anything to it, it looks wrong. So what struck me was that as a piece of design it serves it’s purpose as being a perfect machine.

I suppose a lot of modern design is about reduction and stripping away the excess, leaving the barest amount and yet still retaining it’s functionality. I guess on a technical level a fixed bike is a purely functional object. – Well you can’t make it any better than it is. You know, you can add gears and you can add carbon fibre and you can add steroids, or whatever to the person riding it, but it’ll only go so far in terms of being better, before it becomes something else. The other way as well; if you take anything away from it it just doesn’t function as well. It’s reached an optimum.

No, the only thing that we could find on the Internet at the time was about fixed gear bikes was the Fixed Gear Gallery. When I bought that bike, Ted built his bike at the same time and we were riding around on those and we took pictures of our bikes and we put them up on the gallery. There was no mention of a scene or anything like that. We just liked the bikes and were really stoked about riding them and there was nobody else pretty much – in our world, in our immediate circle who rode them. It was probably through skateboarding that we found some other people that rode fixed. One day I bumped into my friend Tom Crowe - who I used to skate with at Meanwhile. I was on my bike and he was on his – he was riding brakeless then. He was organizing a ride to Brighton and that’s how we met Conrad Johnson, Moose, Steve Bryden, Lee who works in The Hideout, and Richard who worked in MHI. They all had fixed gear bikes and were all riding brakeless in the city and that was the first group of people we met. Soon enough, we’d go out riding with those guys all the time – there was another guy called Tiell who used to be a messenger – and yeah, we’d all go out riding and that was our crew pretty much – and we met a guy called Sebastian who became part of it too. It was quite infectious; we were riding theses bikes, and everybody else wanted to get a brakeless bike so we’d build our friends bikes. So we end up building bikes for friends and going out riding all the time.

Is that how the scene kind of developed so quickly?

I supposed that’s how: you build a bike for one mate and their friends want one, then their friends want one and so on…until you’re building two or three bikes a week out of your living room - in Brockley.

So you first clocked these bikes while you were at St Martins?

Just after. Going to college I couldn’t afford to ride the train – I used to skip the train all the time, or travel on my skateboard, but then my parents bought me a crummy mountain bike - really cheap - like £30 or something and I used to ride that. It would take me like 40 minutes to get from New Cross to Southampton Row, every day – but it was good, it was nice and it beat using public transport of any kind.

Then, after I graduated, because of that mountain bike, I went to Brick Lane Market one day and saw this other bike, it was obviously stolen but I didn’t realize it was nicked at the time. It had two breaks, free wheel – and I bought it. I rode that and it was so much faster – it was like you could shave like half your time, just bomb it down the road. And then I went to the market again and bought another bike a couple of months later. I was talking to my mate a skateboarder and I said do you want to buy this bike off me, and he bought his mate round - which was Ted - to have a look at the bike and make sure it was worth buying. That’s how I met Ted. So that must have been a real pivotal moment for you guys – maybe without even realizing it.

Yeah, I suppose so. It must have been a few months later the next time I went to the market. Me and Ted went together and that was the first time I bought a fixed gear bike. I bought the frame and the wheel set – everything and I put it together when I got home in about half an hour. It was about 150 quid for the whole bike. And then, you get on it and you start to ride it and in fact you don’t know whether you can actually ride it or not. I remember thinking yeah it looks brilliant but is it going to function as well as it looks. It only took me a day or two to get used to riding fixed which I was quite surprised about. After that I didn’t need anything else.

When you first got that bike, when you first met up with Ted, did you get a sense of being part of something bigger, of a kind larger scene gong on?

And that’s when you decided to move into the warehouse off brick lane…

What happened was we were on Brick Lane and we met Benedict Radcliffe.

He was selling some bikes of his dads. Benedict was like yeah I’ve got loads of bikes and bike parts come and have a look. So we went to his space which was just ‘round the corner from there. We started talking - he’s a really sound guy and we bought loads of bits off him and he said, Oh yeah, there’s a space going next door, if you wanna rent somewhere round here…And I just made the decision there and then I was gonna move in and then try to get the other guys to come along.

It wasn’t really a conscious decision - it was just natural. And for me It was a big decision – I mean I hadn’t had a job for over a year and a half; Ted was working at Condor, as a mechanic – in fact he probably wouldn’t have taken that risk if he hadn’t lost that job; I suppose it gave him the chance to get his workshop going.

So who was it that moved in originally? The space was essentially a brick shell in the beginning right? You had to build the workspace, the bedrooms and everything from scratch.

Yeah the people who moved in in the beginning were Patrick – my next door neighbor from Brockley – he had a real interest in videos, editing photography, stuff like that, me, Ted, who wanted to build bikes and have his own workshop, Odge – who was doing his leather and wanted to do more of that and start building bikes with me as well - and that was the four of us. So you kind of had all the bases covered – and that’s pretty much why it kind of came together at that time.

I remember that screening, the first one that you guys had in your warehouse.

That was the thing that made it click, the moment I realized there was something new going on. For me that was a huge turning point – seeing Conrad and Pete Yak and Andy Holmes there and a load of people I’d never met before and realizing that there’s this thing going on which hardly anyone else seemed to know about apart from maybe you and some guys in San Francisco – and certainly no media people seemed to know about.

Mmmm. I never really thought about it like that.

That screening – the Mash film, changed the way I saw cycling and it wasn’t just the film it was the actual gathering of all these disparate but in way likeminded people.

I think the thing that actually changed it for me was actually seeing MASH. FIXED GEAR LONDON | 021

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I didn’t know who any of those guys were, and them putting this thing out there that was so amazing. You know, at that time there was nothing – if you Googled ‘fixed gear’ there was nothing – nothing even on EBay. You’re talking messenger sites, like Moving Target, there was a New York based site, and Fixed Gear Gallery – that’s it. And we were so hungry for anything to do with fixed gear. It’s was like there was a big messenger culture but unless you were a messenger you couldn’t really be part of that. So when MASH came out…

In fact at first I thought it was a documentary about messengers but it’s not, it’s just about people that ride. That blew me a way – it was really good. And the more and more research you do you realize that most of them come from skateboarding culture.

Did you first see the MASH film - before you set up Fixedgearlondon?

Oh no, no, but the name Fixedgearlondon just came from the group of us just hanging out. We did a shoot for a Japanese magazine through Conrad’s contacts. And it always came up, ah what should we call ourselves, we should have a name or whatever – and I can’t remember why, there was this thing about Wynona Ryder – don’t ask me how – and we were gonna be loosely termed the ‘Wynona Ryders’ - the more we rode in any kind of numbers, the more people wanted to know where we were going, what we were up to next -so it just seemed apt to the website that was destined to be – well, it originally was supposed to be my design portfolio. But yeah, it just came about by accident.

It seems to have all come a long way pretty fast – what with the magazine, the tools, the clothing...You must have been approached by so many sponsors over the past few years, offering cash to wear their garms or ride their bikes and so on – We wouldn’t do anything with a brand if we didn’t feel the brand was legit. I really feel strongly about Vans for example: those guys and what they have done for us and how they’ve supported us. I was wearing Vans before I was riding bikes – skating. To me it’s about being loyal: and that’s the same way I’m being to feel about Dickies as well. And Continental. All those people that have supported us and been involved and given us opportunities – we really appreciate what they’ve done and the type of relationships we’re developing with them – why would we want to go and stab them in the back and go somewhere else just because someone’s offered us five grand to do this or whatever? It’s not even worth thinking about. That’s a lot of people’s downfall. It happens in skateboarding all the time.

But I don’t think there’s hardly a fixed gear industry for that to happen in yet; you got to make one first.

There may not be a fixed gear industry, but there’s definitely a fixed gear culture: looking at the checkpoint events that you do, the magazines, the stores, films. I mean if you wanted to define a culture you need a set of people, a certain kind of attitude almost like a belief system, and you need these tools, these expressions - markers, like magazines, films, art…

Yeah, Definitely and that’s really big. And right now it’s really diversifying. We in Fixedgearlondon try to support as much of it as we can – having said that, we don’t really go too heavily in any particular direction - overall we just like riding bikes – fixed gear bikes.

alley cat which replicates those surroundings that they’re in during work but they race each other for the cash prize. Partly we’re putting on theses races to educate really – bring people up to a level. You don’t have to be a messenger – you can just come along – doesn’t matter who you are and you can ride any type of bike. It’s just about bringing everyone together to have a similar type of vibe I suppose.

There’s also something non-conformist about it – similar in a way to skateboarding back in the day. I can imagine one day the polo being in the Olympic or something and the tricks being sponsored by Swatch or some big brand– but can you ever imagine the races being taken on board in that way?

The biggest messenger event in the world is the CMWC. In fact, when I was in Japan, they couldn’t have it in the streets - so the only other option they have is to get sponsors and have it in a huge car park – cordoned off. Essentially it’s a fully organized race. They planned out the route and people from all over the world did it – traveled miles to take part. It’s a huge event: I think they’ve got people traveling this month to a race in Guatemala. Yeah, I can see the Check Point being a bigger event – but we’ve only really begun doing these here. I always knew I wanted to do some, but we never had the right people involved or it wasn’t the right time. Yeah, so I think it can be ‘organized’ but you do loose something…I remember going to alley cats back in the day and even if you were on a check point it was scary because they didn’t give a fuck about anyone – you’ve got 40-odd hardcore messengers coming up to you and people stealing the tickets off you in the street and police blocking the roads - and this is all on a Saturday afternoon in the Theatre district, family time. It’s punk, just a pure punk attitude. Whereas we’re trying to not do something as extreme but you know bridge the gap between that punk attitude and the big organized races. It’s good because the guys with attitude have to tone it down and the everyday riders have to up their game so they meet in the middle.

Every race we’ve done – messengers who I’ve never met before have come up and said yeah, thanks for putting on the race, and so on - and the same with the other people – which I didn’t really expect.

Looking back over the past few years and the incredible impact Fixedgearlondon has had on things, did you ever figure you could turn it all into a business of some sort?

No…never…I still have doubts - but I think you can only be happy if you’re doing what you want to do or what interests you. If you want to be a banker and that’s your goal then you can be happy doing that, but if you don’t want to – you should get the hell out of there. What I want to do – there’s no job for that – so I have to make my own job.

So you haven’t built a career plan out of this then?

Ha. As long as it pays the rent and I’ve got enough food then I’ll be happy….

Yeah, at one point I really thought the polo thing was going to take off and almost overshadow fixed culture in a way – which concerned me a bit because, I’m not a bike fan to be honest: never seemed as authentic as many of the other elements.

Yeah, The polo thing’s kind of settled down and has its format and it has a lot of people involved. Tricks are really becoming popular. You’ve got people buying bikes as a trend, you know fashion type thing – which is huge – there wouldn’t be so many bike shops or coffee shops for cyclists if people weren’t buying bikes as fashion accessories. The thing that we’re doing – right now – the races – was getting forgotten. Which is why we decided to do them. Trying to bring some attention to that element. That was the basis of the whole messenger culture. They ride all day, they deliver their jobs, then they put on an 022 | FIXED GEAR LONDON

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Name: Aidan Earl

Name: Chris Delia

Location (where abouts do you live): Brockley, because its nice.

Location (where abouts do you live): Hackney

Destination ( favourite riding journey) describe and why: From Brockley (home) to E1 (work). It’s quite a long way which passed through so many different parts of London, some nice others not so..

Destination ( favourite riding journey) describe and why: I like to ride down to Southbank skate spot, mainly because i like to ride there but you also get to see most of London on the way down.

Ideal/ current bike spec: At the moment I’m back riding my Fort. It’s my ‘beater’. Old Goldtec’s on Open pros, Gatorskins and Exustar pedals make for a comfortable ride.

Ideal/ current bike spec: Identiti Persona frame, Halo Aerowarrior wheels, Gusset bars and cranks, I like this set up because its nice and solid and comfy too.

Biggest buzz on a bike: I get my biggest buzz from weaving between cars in a way only a track bike could..

Biggest buzz on a bike: I think landing a big trick that scares you a bit or just something you’ve been trying for ages.

Cycling history: when did you start riding fixed?

I started riding fixed about 3 years ago.

Cycling history: when did you start riding fixed?

I started riding fixed in 2007, at first because i wanted a faster way to get around London other than the tube, but now because it just feels natural.

What did you ride before (bmx, racer, etc) did you do any extreme sports before?

Before being fixed I pissed around on a bmx (I was rubbish)...I was far from being extreme.

Headphone or no headphones?

Headphones all the way! I know it maybe considered dangerous but so is everything.

What did you ride before (BMX, racer, etc) did you do any sports before?

I rode mainly MTB trials, street and a bit of downhill.

Headphone or no headphones?

No headphones for me, i like to hear the traffic, helps you predict line better.

What makes a good fixed gear rider?

A good fixed gear rider is someone who is able to completely understand their bike...know your bikes limits.

What makes a good fixed gear rider?

I think having a good rhythm, being smooth and a good sense of awareness.

What else do you do?

When I’m not riding I’m playing bike polo for a London based team called B.A.D.

What else do you do?

If i’m not riding, i’m probably walking my dog or at work. I also like to snowboard and wakeboard, but i hardly get the chance to go.

Never leave home without one: essential cycling accessory.

I never leave home without a set of allen keys, always come in handy.

Never leave home without one: essential cycling accessory.

A month ago I would have said ‘Inner tube’ now I’m going for ‘a helmet’.

Better safe then sorry!

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Name: Dave Noakes

Name: Jonathan Winstone

Location (where abouts do you live): LONDON, WITH ANDY AND STEVE AND MUNCH

Location (where abouts do you live): Shoreditch, London

Destination ( favourite riding journey) describe and why: Anywhere in london with lots of traffic to play in and lots of drivers to annoy.

Destination ( favourite riding journey) describe and why: As sorts trips go, riding into the West End. Always going to love that trip.

My other fav trips is when we go abroad and go riding in different cities, especially when there’s lots of bike lanes.

Ideal/ current bike spec: Fully pink Bareknuckle track held together by stickers, soma velodrama drop bars pink, miche crank, condor chainring 48-18 ratio, thomson, san marco, velocity (pink), lots of spokey dokies and spoke cards... bars change depending on my mood and where im riding, risers...drops.

Identiti Persona frame ffx fork, gusset, odyssey, dmr, and velocity bits Biggest buzz on a bike: Up until last week it was racing and generally riding fast that gave me a buzz, now i have a trick bike i think bar spins off things is up there at the moment. Also i must mention that my bmx does supply a fair amount of good feelings for me. To summarise…the biggest buzz is anything as long as i’m riding!

Cycling history: when did you start riding fixed?

2004, I think...was a messenger for about 5/6 years got into fixed through that, the simplicity and low maintenance…and they really are so nice to ride.

What did you ride before (bmx, racer, etc) did you do any extreme sports before?

Never rode before i started late when i was 23, started bmx recently because of fixed, I skateboard, surf, motocross, used to fruit boot and mountainboard.

Headphone or no headphones?

Headphones…sometimes! when racing through tight traffic no headphones...when pissing about having fun I love my tunes!

What makes a good fixed gear rider?

Balls ;) awareness, fitness, for riding in traffic the ability to see in to the future helps.

What else do you do?

Eat, sleep, drink, smoke, wank, facebook, chill, work (youthwork), and doing my MA in psychoanalysis Never leave home without one: essential cycling accessory.

Bike and iphone

Ideal/ current bike spec: Got’s my ideal bike at the moment. My 14 Bike Co ESB, hand built by the man himself, Ted James AKA Super Ted. I don’t even have to plug it either, anyone who’s knows about this bike, knows! It’s like having your own piece of Ted with you at all times.

Biggest buzz on a bike: Man, just getting myself from A to B without relying on, or paying for public transport of any kind.

Cycling history: when did you start riding fixed?

Off the top of my head, riding fixed about two, two and half years ago?

What did you ride before (bmx, racer, etc) did you do any extreme sports before?

Extreme water sports maybe! No, hadn’t rode for years. I was relying far to much on cars, in fact I have just sold my car which makes it the first time since I was 17 not to have a car. Jeez! What a relief!

Headphone or no headphones?

Yeah, I do like the headphones. I shouldn’t really as you need all the senses you got when you ride through the city, but sometimes I just want to block out that damned wind from my ear holes. By the way, people have their music on way too loud in public, get some decent headphones and you won’t have to damage you ear drums. Stop relying on those shitty iPhone ones.

What makes a good fixed gear rider?

I think that actually riding fixed instantly makes you a better and more considerate rider, especially if you’re going bare back (no brakes that is, heh heh) There’s way too much reliance on braking at the last minute with freewheel brake type bikes.

What else do you do?

That would be telling. For a day job I work as a photographer. I work mainly in commercial and editorial; billboards and mag’s you know! Of course I shoot lots of stuff for FGL and on top of all the nice advertising jobs one can have, there’s nothing like just hanging with my friends and snapping them. Once I win the lottery, that’s all I’m going to do. Just photograph my friends, publish some books and hold some exhibitions. What more could a boy want?

Never leave home without one: essential cycling accessory.

So easy! Tyre repair kit and lock, oh! And a camera of course. I still don’t get why hardly anyone rides around without a puncture repair kit. And stop with the loose chains and under inflated tyres already.

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streetwear today VI | 2010

Name: Mike Merkenschlager Location (where abouts you live): London NW5 Destination ( favourite riding journey) describe and why: Somewhere I’ve never been before. Going to the same place over and over is boring, best to go explore and find new stuff and in London it’s not hard to do. If I had to choose one place it’d be the the Heath Extension, getting up the hill is annoying but once you’re there you can just go mad fast offroad with little or no control where you’re going. There’s also jumps which are super fun, but I’d say the best bit is going fast, and then going home there are loads of crazy routes down the hill through bushes and stuff.

Ideal/ current bike spec: I like my bike, it’s a 14bikeco ESB with 26” sun ringle rims laced to Superted prototype hubs, 2.0 tyre on the back 2.3 front. Gusset bars, flybikes stem with odi grips, profile cranks with tree lite splined sprocket, KMC kool chain and odyssey plastic pedals. My straps change a lot but at the moment I’m testing some ‘Monster Traps’. I’m going to get another bike to cycle fast on but I haven’t got round to it yet.

Biggest buzz on a bike: Whatever is scary that you force yourself to do, whether it’s wildin’ out in a race, getting big airs out of a shanky ramp or hitting stairs, it’s all good.

Going fast downhill offroad is really good.

Cycling history: When did you start riding fixed? I got my first fixed gear bike in the summer of 2008 to get around on after I got injured skateboarding. It really sucked not being able to skate and Oscar had a bike that I was stoked on so I decided to get one myself. My dad helped me buy a conversion road bike from some old man who used it for winter training, it didn’t fit me at all but I was mad about it.

What did you ride before (bmx, racer, etc) did you do any extreme sports before?

I’ve never ridden BMX or any bikes very much before I got into fixed, but I’d been skating for a few years with Oscar and Gus before I got into riding fixed gear bikes. I still skate quite a bit but so much of my life is tied around riding bikes that it often takes second priority.

Headphone or no headphones?

Music has it’s place but for me that’s not when I’m riding bikes, at least when cycling in London. There’s too much information in what you hear with the traffic and dangers you can’t see that it’s a missed opportunity to listen to anything else.

What makes a good fixed gear rider?

For general riding it’s good timing, strong legs and the ability to look ahead. For tricks you want to be a BMXer, otherwise you’ll suck for ages, people who have ridden BMX start off miles ahead of everyone else, it’s not fair.

What else do you do?

Eat, take photos, skateboard and run the 14bikeco blog. When I’m not doing that I’ll probably be watching some Studio Ghibli film or chilling with Iona.

Never leave home without one: essential cycling accessory.

Helmet, a big hard hat for me.

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Name: Oscar Khan

Name: Steven Bryden

Location (where abouts do you live): London

Location (where abouts do you live): London

Destination ( favourite riding journey) describe and why: the Dulwich Dynamo was really fun but i would have to say bombing down hampstead heath, there are some parts that are almost completely wild and so good to ride through.

Destination ( favourite riding journey) describe and why: Riding from East London to West London and back, the tempo of traffic varies also there is some great scenery on the route I take.

Ideal/ current bike spec: the bike i’m riding now is pretty much the first bike that i’ve ridden that i have no problems with. It’s an ESB which is a stronger bike designed

by Superted to withstand trick riding hence the name ESB standing for “extra strong bike” it’s my favourite thing ever.

Biggest buzz on a bike: When the wind blows through my hair.

Cycling history: when did you start riding fixed?

About almost three years now!! i’m getting old. what did you ride before (bmx, racer, etc) did you do any extreme sports before?

I was a skateboarder and still am, its so good.

Headphone or no headphones?

I tried riding with them but i get dirty looks and almost died so i whimped out. i think it does take away some of the fun of the road though and when your with other people its just unsociable, thats something that angers me.

Ideal/ current bike spec: frame : 2008 Bianchi Concept Wheels: Front Hed Jet 90 rim on campy hub Rear: Rigida rim on Hub Chub Continental Tyres Sugino 75, FSA Chainring Thomson stem and seat post Road Handlebars with bar tape Turbo saddle MKS pedals SAG straps Biggest buzz on a bike: Going Fast - getting from point A to B really quick and safe is my buzz.

Cycling history: when did you start riding fixed?

End of 2005. I sort got into it out of curiosity. I had a go on my friend’s Conrad bike. After that I was hooked. It was so quick, just instant the power. Also working in Central London I would get passed by the couriers when I used to ride my GT Cruiser. They were going so fast but it looked effortless.

What makes a good fixed gear rider?

Hahaha i wish i knew! i don’t know maybe being fun or up to ride? The people i admire seem to want.

What did you ride before (bmx, racer, etc) did you do any extreme sports before?

I used to ride a 26in GT Cruiser and BMX to get around town.

What else do you do?

Studying is taking a lot of time up. i like to sooooooooooooccccccccciiiiiiiaaaaaaallllllliiizzzzeeeeeeeee!!!!!!!!! maaaaaannnn

Headphone or no headphones?

No headphones, I like to hear whats going on around me. Especially on a busy road.

Never leave home without one: essential cycling accessory.

I try not to take anything out i like to stay free and easy. maybe my phone or keys? that probably sounds really boring sorry.

What makes a good fixed gear rider?

Someone who is in total control of their bike no matter what the scenario is.

What else do you do?

Work rest and play.

Never leave home without one: essential cycling accessory.

Tool pouch - it has everything I need, patches incase of a puncture, multi tool, pump etc.

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streetwear today VI | 2010

They call him Super Ted. One of the original FGL members along with Andy Ellis, Ted is a bike mechanic and frame maker. His workshop, not too far from the location of the original FGL HQ, is full of bike parts in different stages of repair or creation…

For as long as I can remember I’ve always been making stuff – trying to improve on something so it lasted longer. I think I started out breaking stuff before I learned how to put things together: my dad fixing my bike; with me watching him fix it; him not being able to fix it quick enough - so I had to learn.

As a kid I used to skate and ride BMX a lot. When I left school I started doing an apprenticeship as a welder; learning how to make staircases and lift shafts. I did that for a year. During my lunch break I’d play with the lathe and try to make BMX pegs and other bike pieces. I was thinking about making bikes even back then, but I didn’t know anything about the different alloys and steels and the type of welding needed – things like that.

So I started making some BMX forks but realized that they were going to be too heavy – so I never finished them. I was also working in bike shops here and there as a mechanic around that time.

I’d always wanted to make bikes. When I was 18 I did a BTEC diploma in engineering – learned a bit about technical drawing, electrical stuff, manufacturing – which turned out to all very useful. I really did the BTEC because I was living at

home at the time and I had to do something – either go to college or get a job.

As a mechanic I was always fixing messengers bikes – so I’ve always been involved in that kind of thing.

With messengers the most common thing I did back then was build wheels for people. A lot of messengers do their own mechanic work, they’re wearing out parts all the time - but lots still required wheels to be built. You can just buy a wheel off the shelf, pre-built but they’re not as strong. You get your own build, you get a good quality hub that’s going to last you a long time – and you want to put a good rim on the hub too.

I’ve been collecting different tools over the years – I’ve always had some sort of workshop where ever I’ve lived. It’s only more recently – last few years - that I’ve really expanded the workshop and really got into building frames. It’s two years since I built my first frame – since then I’ve built up my tooling a lot more.

I think there are a few things you need to think about in order to make a good frame. Obviously the geometry – got to get that right. A good tight fit for tubes then good decent welding or brazing for the strength. The fit goes towards strength as well. You can join it together really well, but if the geometry’s weird then it’s not going to be a good ride.

You get all kinds of different customers. Some people know exactly what they want. If they don’t know exactly what they want I try to find out what they need from the bike – what they want to ride it for and then I suggest the right geometry and materials that I think is best suited to them.

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streetwear today VI | 2010

Misconceptions about fixed gear bikes… > That fixed gear culture was invented by messengers.

> That once you have your fixed gear, you don’t have to look after it at all.

> That riding a fixed gear is dangerous. > That you will not be able to ride up any hills. > That a fixed gear bike is cheap, because it has minimal parts to it.

> That like racing bikes, people think fixed gear bikes are weak.

> That fixed gear culture is cool. > That you can not stop on a fixed gear bike. > That a fixed gear bike with drop bars is faster than one with out them.

> That you are not allowed to do tricks on a fixed gear bike. > That it is ok to call them fixes. > That you have to stop at red lights.

> That they are comfortable to ride. > That anyone can ride with out a break.

> That they ruin your knee joints. When anything you do ruins your knees too.

> That you can buy a good fixed gear bike for £200.

> That Fixedgearlondon gives a fuck what you think.

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Hydrophyte

Photographer: Joe Wyneken www.joe.wyneken.de Compositing, Idea & Graphix: Barbara Richter www.digitaldesaster.de Assistance: Stefanie Levers www.stefanielevers.de Styling: Sara Magielka II Elena Braun Models: Henning, Andre, Sonja, Barbara, Elena, Esther Thanks to: Freibeuter Crew Andre Jacket: adidas II Pants: Lee II Hat: EK by New Era

streetwear todayâ&#x20AC;&#x201A; IV | 2010

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Henning Hoody: adidas II Beanie: Barts

Sonja Jacket: adidas II Pants: O’Neill II Shoes: adidas

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Esther Sweater: adidas II Pants: Bench

streetwear todayâ&#x20AC;&#x201A; IV | 2010

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Henning Jacket: adidas II Beanie: Forvert

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Esther Zipper: adidas II Beanie: Chiemsee II Pants: Roxy

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Andre Tracktop: adidas II Pants: Lee

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Barbara Vest: Roxy II Tracktop: adidas Elena Tracksuit: adidas

streetwear todayâ&#x20AC;&#x201A; IV | 2010

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All Shoes by adidas

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streetwear today VI | 2010

Amongst Friends update Leather / Canvas Hooded Vest Genuine leather shoulder panels and accents, heavy-duty cotton canvas body, short hair faux fur lined body and removable hood.

Mock Neck Flannel Shirt Super soft washed medium weight plaid flannel, snap placket & pocket, cotton ribbed collar and cuffs, rounded shirt hem Raglan Fleece Crewneck Raglan sleeve crewneck, heavy weight French terry with AF puffy quilted logo on left chest.

Lamb Skin Bomber Jacket Genuine New Zealand Lamb Skin, dense cotton ribbing and lined with short hair faux fur Crackled Leather Belt Crackled genuine leather, antiqued silver buckle with AF laser etched logo

for more info check our past issue no. 33 or www.amongstfriendsnyc.com

Norse Projects – timeless Norse Projects have compiled two nice wearable pieces.

The one is a winter jacket of British Millerain fabric and with PrimaLoft padding, sweet Talon zippers, wrist gators and the embroidered Norse X Oi Polloi scout patch marks this great winter piece and manifest this great collaborational work. The other project was realized by Mark McNairy New Amsterdam for Norse Project.

McNairy has launched an English and American inspired footwear range to complement his eponymous label. The classic shoe styMARK MCNAIRY NEW AMSTERDAM les — which are made in Northhampshire, !"# England feature a selection of dirty bucks,

saddle shoes, chukka boots and loafers and match the Norse Projects output in a perfect manner. Both pieces are reason enough to have a closer look to the Dansk Brand from Copenhagen. http://www.norseprojects.com

COPENHAGEN - DENMARK

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streetwear today VI | 2010

3sixteen - utilitarian silhouettes 3sixteen is a menswear Brand headquartering in New York‘s Lower East Side.

It was founded in 2003 and aims to create collections that demonstrate longevity in both design and construction. Producing clothing that will hold up to extensive wear and remain relevant season after season is a goal. The brand‘s aesthetic is built upon utilitarian silhouettes from decades past and updates those traditionals with premium materials and a better view for modern fits.

Most of the goods are hand-sewn in the USA and the Fall 2010 collection consists of a slim-cut Duffel, waxed canvas bombers and water-repellant Harrington jackets, heavyweight melton wool overshirts and boiled wool vests.

The 3sixteen denim line is made in the USA too of raw Japanese selvedge and modern cuts allow the jeans to function comfortably in both dressier or casual outfits. www.3sixteen.com

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Asics and Onitsuka Tiger – a friends and family affair What is it what you can expect if a Japanese family invites their friends?

A slappy handshake? A messy atmosphere in the living room and nobody is taking care? I am sure your expectations are different. A true Japanese hospitality with mutual respect and interest in friendship is what you get. Than it comes to footwear and contemporary creativity implemented by likeminded people and friends from all over the world. The host is Asics Onitsuka Tiger and the guests are Reality Studio, Seventyfive Store, Surface to Air, Sneaker Freaker, Slam Jam and Tillmann Lauterbach „Keep the flavor of the original; make them fit people‘s feet today, and somehow make them feel even better to wear“ (Kihachiro Onitsuka, founder of ASICS Corp., 1918 (2007) www.asics.com www.onitsukatiger.com

Reality Studio The designer behind the Reality Studio label is Svenja Specht. She graduated in fashion and product design in 1998, worked in Paris, Beijing and Germany in the fields of graphic, product and fashion design. In 2005 she started her own fashion label called Reality Studio in Berlin. Svenja designs pieces that combine multicultural influences with an androgynous elegance, making her clothing both unique and highly wearable and appreciated in Paris, Berlin, Tokyo and Copenhagen and sold across Europe, Asia and the US. But the created shoe style speaks for itself. www.realitystudio.de

Seventyfive store The first Seventyfive store in Amsterdam was opened

by Chris Noorda in 1999, and was one of the first stores in Holland to sell iconic sneakers. Meanwhile the company owns three stores in Amsterdam and a creative team which worked out a fresh classic called Lay-Up 72. www.seventyfive.com

Surface to Air Surface to Air, alive since 2000 started initially as a creative consultancy and branched out into the areas of film, ready- to-wear clothing, and global creative direction.

A first concept store opened its doors in 2002, the related clothing is a mix of fresh takes on established classics and edgy contemporary designs. Today, the brand is sold in 200 stores across 20 countries. The black beauty they created adorns their simplicity logo. www.surfacetoair.com

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Tillmann Lauterbach was born in 1977 in Bonn, Germany, and raised on the Spanish island of Ibiza until the age of seven. After working in various fields, including artistic design and modelling, in 2000 he enrolled at Paris fs famous Esmod Fashion College. He graduated as a pattern cutter and designer two years later, having won the award for the best women fs collection in his year. His creation on OT comes clean but detailed. www.tillmannlauterbach.com

Slam Jam Street fashion and Italy is combined in the words Slam Jam. It was founded by Luca Benini in Ferrara, in 1989. The brands it carries, the activities and events it stages, and its new headquarters all reflect the company fs natural vocation for music, art, people and fashion. Another gel lyte 3 comes to the shelfs and will trigger the hype. www.slamjam.com

Sneaker Freaker Designer Woody changed career paths in 2002 by launching Sneaker Freaker, a maga- zine dedicated to the cult of sneakers. What initially seemed like a fun idea quickly turned into a global success with the magazine being sold in 42 countries. From its roots in Melbourne, Australia, Sneaker Freaker has grown into a global success story. The gel lyte 3 woody created will be sold out in seconds. www.sneakerfreaker.com

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mask

Photographer: Bastian Hessler www.bastianhessler.de Styling: Sara Magielka II Make Up: Yulia Gashkova II Model: Jessi, Jenny, Guy, Nana

Jessi Jacket: adidas II Beanie: Forvert

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Guy Hoody: Bench

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Jenny Jacket & Beanie: Element

046 | mask

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Nana Knit: Roxy

mask | 047

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P-ROD - PAUL RODRIGUEZ (JR) P-Rod, THAT Paul whose father‘s the well-known actor and comedian Paul Rodrigues, walked and worked his own way to stardom. Well, I should rather write that he ollied his stairway to earthly heaven. Because? He does what he really loves to do and he‘s very, very success by doing that. Besides the fact of being one of the world‘s best skateboarders, he‘s a versatile entrepreneur as well. Well, with a litte much help from his friends. But that makes the whole Cinderella story even better. Wait, it wasn‘t that typical fairytale thing. It was more of a Roc-a-fella thing, gained by hard work, a sound mindset and lots of good guidance. Er, inspiration.

INSPIRATIONS Everything I draw inspiration from is directed towards skateboarding. I look up to so many people like Michael Jordan, Bruce Lee, Alexander the Great, Crazy Horse, lots of sports figures, musicians like NAS and Jay-Z. I study everything about them.

I always had heroes and looked up to them and wanted to be like them. Even when they‘re not from skateboarding, I see what they do - whatever they‘re good at doing in, be it sports or music - try to be as good as they are at that at skateboarding. Take inspiration from everywhere and from everyone in the world. It could be a doctor, a lawyer, whatever – if they‘re the best at what they do, I want to know them and how they do it.

DAUGHTER & DAD I want my daughter to know that she can do whatever she wants to. That she can achieve anything she wants to. It‘s not just luck. My father is lucky because he worked very hard. So I want my daughter to know that. My parents helped my with that but not by telling me but by showing me. My father became a famous comedian in the States and makes lots of movies. I always saw that he accomplishes his dreams. He worked hard to become a successful and wealthy person. He never told me “Son, give 110%,“ I just saw it, it was natural.

PRIMITIVE SHOP & PARTNERSHIP Regarding the Primitive Group, shop and clothing brand, I‘m the investor and I represent it. I know my partner since I was 12, so I‘ve known him for a long, long time. When Nike approached me to do a sneaker, he said “Trust me, it‘s gonna be a good thing“ and I was „Oh no, I‘m too young for this responsibility“ but he just kept asking me, asking me, asking me. He was so determined, so I was „OK!“ That same guy and I are partners now and I really do trust him. The shop‘s been open for over two years and it‘s been really successful. Lots of people, good customers, come for specific purpose and they keep coming back.

CLOTHING LINE & PROJECTS I think building up my own clothing line would be with Nike SB but in a perfect world I‘d love to have my own brand “P-ROD“ or “PR,“ just like Michael Jordan.

I have a wallet company I just started. It‘s a small project called “Markisa“.

Another friend of mine I skated with has a lot of passion for it and is taking care of that business. We do it small and slowly but who knows? Maybe it will blow big one day. Then there‘s my shop Primitive. And Plan B. I‘m a part owner in that. I just want to build that up as well. So, that‘s all the things I‘m working on. I‘m doing it. Hopefully, it all flourishes.

NIKE SB TEAMMATES The ones I hang out with most are the ones I live close to, so that would be Shane O‘Neill and Eric Koston. I love Omar Salazar and Stefan Janoski. Wieger, I don‘t see him very often but he‘s an amazing guy and super funny. I‘ve been with Nike over six years so I‘ve come to know these guys real good. I like that there is a special place for everybody on the team.

SKATE SPOTS & TRAINING FACILITY Skateboarding is a thing that‘s done all over the world. Skaters like to travel and to see new spots. In America you get kicked out a lot, you can‘t skate at a lot of places whereas in Barcelona you got all those great spots with marbles and you don‘t get kicked out. You can skate all day long. That‘s why a lot of people ended

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up moving to Barcelona. You can skate from spot to spot easy. But it has slowed down and I thing that China is the new hot spot because everything is marble and new. Wherever there is great spots and you won‘t get kicked out and you find those places - take advantage of it!

Finally, once it‘s kind of slowed down, you go find the next one.

I learned how to skateboard on the street. I like to have a session. But if you go to a spot, e.g. a rail, because you want to accomplish a mission, it‘s become hard over the years to go there and not to get kicked out. So I decided to get a warehouse because I‘m sick of driving to the spot and getting kicked out. I needed a place I can skate anytime I want, for how long I want and not having to worry about getting kicked out. So, that‘s what‘s good about having a training facility.

But, of course, at the end of the day you always want to be on the street. You skate in a park because you want to take it to the street.

LIFE AFTER SKATEBOARDING I don‘t have any other passion besides skaeboarding. If I get to the point where I‘m too old because my body can‘t skate anymore, I don‘t know what I‘m gonna do. I don‘t have any other interest at all. I just (smiles) … I just die (laughs).

It‘s all I have and all I know. I didn‘t graduate school, I didn‘t do nothing, I just skated, and skated, and skated, and skated … and here we are (grins).

When I was 16, I didn‘t get sore so easy, of course. But now I am stronger, I have more power, I have more skills, I feel better. I‘ll be a professional for ten more years. Look at guys like Eric Koston and Daewon Song, they‘re still getting better, they‘re still the best. And they are in their mid-thirties. That‘s super motivating for me. Even Tony Hawk. How old is he, 47, 45? He‘s up there. He‘s killing it! Maybe at the end of the day I will learn how to skate vert (laughs). Just keep it new, keep it fresh. cross-examination by Lorenzo Taurino & Kazuma from DreamTeam Clothing www.nike.com/nikeskateboarding

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Element Emerald – the fashion forward footwear line We all recognized the change in footwear, a mix of all we love emerges into your up to date favorite footwear. Redwing boots, Timberland boat shoes or Clarks desert boots got shaken but also stirred with your favorite sneaker optic. Even the Mokassins looking so slacky on your feet get on the streets again. Hightop sneaker have a solid look and low ones all look like lite classics. The mid versions are coming back too but need that certain extra. The matching element range consists of a 10 models force. The Emerald collection uses the fitting green tonality to render homage to nature and outdoor tradition. The apparel line called Element Wolfeboro was already a good step in that direction. But next to this, one of the biggest emerging trends is nice and clean footwear. Element Emerald brings their new footgear to the worlds exclusive skate shops and street boutiques to set the tone with fashion forward but non-performance footwear in the action sports community. As these styles are also part of the „conscious by nature“ Idea, they are made with good care. www.elementeurope.com

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Photographer: Bastian Hessler www.bastianhessler.de

Styling: Sara Magielka & Yuliya Gashkova II Make Up: Rike Ruppricht & Yuliya Gashkova Model: Paulina & Johanna www.caprifisher.de II Niklas & Niklas www.notoys.de Christian www.kultmodelagency.com

undercut

Niklas Pants: Replay II Scarf: Roxy II Shoes: Kangroos II Vest & Dufflecoat: 667 Niklas Pants & Scarf: Replay II Knit: Roxy II Jacket: O’ Neill II Shoes: Element II Hat: Forvert 052 | undercut

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Niklas Tee: American Apparel II Skirt: Element II Pants: 667 II Jacket: Element undercut | 053

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Paulina Vest: Quiksilver L/s: Replay Pants: 667 Hat: Roxy

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Niklas Tee: American Apparel II Jacket: Element

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Niklas Hat Hurley II Bag: Freitag II Pants: Replay II Vest: 667

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Paulina Vest: Quiksilver II Longsleeve: Replay II Pants: 667 shoes: adidas II Hat: Roxy undercut | 057

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Paulina Longsleeve: Replay Swatch: Triwa Pants: 667 Johanna Pants: Herrlicher Blouse: 667 Shoes. Adidas Brille: znirp-design

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Johanna Pants: Herrlicher II Blouse: 667 II Shoes. Adidas II Brille: znirp-design undercut | 059

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Christian Shirt: adidas II Pants. Replay II Watch: Casio

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Christian Pants: Replay II Shirt & Zipper: 667 Shoes: kangores

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Paulina Pants: Element Eden Hat: Element Eden Blouse: 667 Strick: Replay Bag: Forvert Johanna Pants: Replay Longstrick: Replay Knit: Replay Brille: znirp-design

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2thirds - unsurfed waves TWOTHIRDS is a fresh new label from San Sebastian, heart of the Basque Country and its name comes from the notion that two-thirds of our planet is covered by ocean.. Its founders started a surf-inspired street label to be set apart from others. A brand that stands for impressive designs, high quality sustainable fabrics and a deep connection to the ocean. We met them for the

first time at the BBB where they made an impressive debut so we wanted to know a little more about them …

How did you get into surf?

My partner Lutz was skating as a kid and learned surfing at a very early age at the Maui Ocean Academy in Hawaii. I spent my childhood in Dominican Republic, that’s where I learned surfing. During those years my mom started studying marine biology, she was the one that introduced me to the mysteries of the ocean and teached me to love and respect it.

What was the aim to have your own Brand?

We wanted to create a clothing brand that transcends fashion. A progressive, influential and environmental focused company without sacrificing style. A brand that is a custodian of our oceans but at the same time delivers timeless and stylish clothing.

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What was the biggest issue?

To find a balance between being sensitive to the environment and delivering great styles.

The eco fashion is hip what is your part in it?

Using sustainable fabrics and the best available qualities doesn‘t come from an urge to be classified as „eco“, it just feels like the natural and right thing to do in these times.

Our contribution to the fashion industry is our commitment with what makes who we are: our oceans. This dedication to the ocean has blended into every aspect of our company so we are constantly looking for ways of reducing our impact. For example one of the biggest problems is that our oceans are turning into giant landfills of plastic so we have replaced the polyester bags that are commonly used today throughout the fashion industry with an innovative bag developed by a laboratory in england that dissolves completely into water without leaving any harmful residues.

Also the paper we use is made out of recycled algae that would otherwise clog up the venice lagoon. But our biggest commitment is reflected with the donation of 10% of our proceeds to Oceana, the worlds biggest organisation dedicated to protecting and preserving our oceans. More than a green brand we like to think of TWOTHIRDS as the blue company.

What was the intention to join that eco community with a surf brand?

There is a big wave of companies and individuals that do care about living in a better world. We are happy to be considered among them. But most importantly we are excited to see how our philosophy has found echoes with the bearded core surfer exploring for remote and unsurfed waves but also the style conscious that live in the city and wants wear casual styles defined by their high quality fabrics, detailing and commitment to the environment.

How is the reaction of retailers and consumers? What‘s the feedback?

We didn’t get much out of San Sebastian before our presentation this summer at the Bread&Butter so we didn‘t know what the feedback would be... so we were really stoked when we saw the hype that was built around our concept and collection. We feel lucky to have found great retail partners with a good pulse for style, that show enthusiasm and support our philosophy. It’s always a good feeling when anyone responds in such a positive way to what you’re working hard on. Motivates us want to work even harder!

How do you support your Brand that people get to know it? Teamrider?

One of the most important components of 2/3 are the TWOTHIRDS Sentinels.

A TWOTHIRDS Sentinels is someone that lives for the ocean, world famous our unknown. Someone that puts his talent and passion to protecting and preserving our oceans. Essentially they are informal ambassadors flying the flag of TWOTHIRDS in a variety of subcultures such as surf, music, film, art and environmental activism. We are always seeking for creative ways and partnerships to load up the single sentence that summarizes our brand ethos: Protect what you love.

What are your plans for the future?

We are getting emails everyday seeking out where to buy our line overseas so we are expanding our distribution to more countries. We are excited to see our designs worn in different parts of the world. We are also working on various collaborations with artists and other brands so look out soon for new products, accessories and apparel. We are pretty excited to expand our line of products. Basically we want to keep improving on what we do. That is, design and create clothing and provide a life-style brand that works a platform to protect our worlds oceans. That is what we are all about.

Interview with Sergio Penzo, Co-Founder II www.2thirds.com

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The Great American Love Machine - God Speed The Great American Love Machine is a clothing movement which draws inspiration from one of the most beloved (and bad ass) American pastimes, motorcycles and a constant state of wanderlust. Seems easy and obvious but is as authentic as it gets. The graphic influences are layered with double meanings and includes vintage type stylings and 70‘s counter culture elements. Love Machine isn‘t a clothing line born from spectator observation instead it is a creative byproduct of an actual motorcycle club „Hell Fire Canyon Club“ with Chapters based in West Hollywood, California and London, England. which was founded by hip-hop & rock luminaries, Danny Boy O‘Connor of House of Pain and Steve Jones of the infamous Sex Pistols. The bike club, Hell Fire Canyon Club, is the name sake of T.G.A.L.M.‘s primary capsule. A high caliber example of art imitating life.

The Great American Love Machine is a project from the mind of Danny Boy O’Connor. Since 1991, O‘Connor‘s passion for art direction and graphic design has lead to the creation of iconic images for H.O.P, La Coka Nostra and many of your favorite brands. While bike culture is the main inspiration for Love Machine, Danny‘s roots in hip-hop, hardcore, street wear and Japanese fashion are colors on his creative pallet that will separate this brand from companies Google images have help build. Love is the Drug- Hell Fire - God Speed. Look out for collaborations with Japan’s Bounty Hunter, Dave Flores and Los Angeles creative collective, The Soul Assassins.

Forever! http://americanlovemachine.com Written by - Frank The Butcher

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PLASTIKGOLD - opportunities You slowly open one eye, followed by the other. Yawning loudly, you inhale the crisp L.A. air, and look next to you. „Where did she come from?“ You ask yourself as you stare at the lady lying next to you wearing only a pair of boy shorts, and her sleepy face.

The more you start to think, the more your head starts to throb, as you are experiencing the worst hangover of your last 10 years. A smile comes to your face as you begin to reminisce on all the people that doubted you, and everything they use to say to you.

“Oh, sweet, a new fashion brand. Grow up!”, “lots of people already tried that”, “Do this, Do that, Nah that ain‘t gonna work!”

que print they are an outstanding thing to wear. You should be able to walk confident trough New York, chill on the beach or be the one Mark Hunter is taking pictures of at a CobraSnake Party.

There’s nothing but opportunities, you just have to take them. PLASTIKGOLD won’t help you to take them but it will help you to remember them and of course to look good.

“How long should you try? Until.” Jim Rohn http://www.plastikgold.com

They say victory wouldn’t be so sweet, if it wasn’t for all the adversity.

You couldn’t have felt that great last night without feeling so stale right now.

Yin and Yang motherf***er !

This moment of enlightenment, that’s the spark that made the idea of PLASTIKGOLD bright.

Simon Smykalla founded PLASTIKGOLD in early 2010 in a small village called Langenberg, Germany. During the new great recession the timing could have been better but it wasn’t about making rational decisions, it was just the time for PLASTIKGOLD to drop. PLASTIKGOLD has no roots in a subculture or music direction, the brand is rather more of a lifestyle statement than a subculture accessory. The brand tries not to produce your average t-shirt, every single piece is supposed to be your favorite piece.

For example the deep crew-neck t-shirts are made out of 100% viscose, that’s what gives them a silky look and feel. In combination with the simple but uni-

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070 | HE and HIMSELF

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HE and HIMSELF Photography: Ryan Jerome www.ryanjerome.com Production & Styling: Stephan Kallaus www.stephankallaus.com www.agenturrouge.de Grooming: Anja El Sawaf www.anja-el-sawaf.de www.agenturrouge.de Model: Piotr, Major Model Management Milan

Shirt: Herrlicher Silver Bracelet: Silberbock München Pants: Irene Luft

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Jacket: Mucha II Shirt: Sisley II Tie: Benetton 072 | HE and HIMSELF

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Jacket: Aeronautica Militare Shirt: Rich & Royal Bow Tie: Stylist’s own Pants: O’Neill

HE and HIMSELF | 073

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Jacket: Herrlicher Shirt: Hannibal Scarf: Stylist’s own Jeans: Bench Belt: Schlüter Boots: Dr. Martens Vintage 074 | HE and HIMSELF

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Denim Jacket: Lee Shirt: Levi’s HE and HIMSELF | 075

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076 | HE and HIMSELF

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Cap: New Era II T-Shirt & Jacket: Sisley HE and HIMSELF | 077

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Jacket: Bench T-Shirt: Armed Angels 078 | HE and HIMSELF

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Cap: New Era T-Shirt: Herrlicher Pants: Aeronautica Militare Boots: Palladium HE and HIMSELF | 079

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Sunglasses: Initium Shirt: Hannibal Suspenders: Yesterday Jeans: Firetrap Bag: Bench Bow Tie & Boots: Stylist’s own

080 | HE and HIMSELF

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Photographer: Martin Heck www.martinheck.com II Assistance: Harry Schaack II Production/Hair & Make-up: Stefanie Schmidt www.stefanieschmidt.net Styling: Jutta Bowe www.wilde-heimat.de II Models: Renate, Moritz, Björn www.modelbookers.de II Kirstin www.imm-models.com

Glückliche Gewinner

Kirstin Jacke & Shoes: adidas II Pants: Stylist Own

Moritz Jacket & Shoes: adidas II Pants: Quik.Jean

Renate Jacket & Schuhe: adidas II Pants: Stylist Own

Björn Shirt: Quiksilver II Shoes: adidas II Shirt & Pants: Element

082 | Glückliche Gewinner

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Kirstin Tights: Stylist Own II Beanie & Boots: Wilde Heimat II Shirt: Forvert Björn Beanie & Jacket: Wilde Heimat II Shoes: adidas Renate Beanie: Wilde Heimat II Shoes: Vintage Jacket: Element Moritz Beanie & Gloves: Wilde Heimat T-Shirt: Armedangels Jacket: adidas Pants: Element

Chair: Wilde Heimat Glückliche Gewinner | 083

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Renate Skirt & Boots: Wilde Heimat II Jacket: adidas II Head set, Station, Rug & Bowlingball: Wilde Heimat 084 | Glückliche Gewinner

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Moritz Leatherjacket: Wilde Heimat II Shirt: O’Neill II Pants: Element II Hirschgeweih: Wilde Heimat Glückliche Gewinner | 085

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Kristin Longsleeve, Earrings, Foxtail & Bike: Wilde Heimat II Pants: Herrlicher II Shoes: adidas 086 | Glückliche Gewinner

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Björn Jacket: Wilde Heimat II T-Shirt: Forvert II Pants: Quik.Jean II Shoes: adidas II Bike: Wilde Heimat Glückliche Gewinner | 087

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Renate II Top & Barett: Wilde Heimat II Jacket: Bench II Shoes: adidas II Pants: Stylist Own Moritz II Cardigan & Shoes: adidas II Pants: Element II Braces: Wilde Heimat II Chair & Pelt& Lamp: Wilde Heimat 088 | Glückliche Gewinner

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Kirsten II Belt: Wilde Heimat II Tights: Stylists Own II Skirt & Shirt: Herrlicher II Shoes: Element Björn II Shirt & Pants: Wilde Heimat II Shoes: adidas II Chair, Pelt, Lamp & Station: Wilde Heimat Glückliche Gewinner | 089

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BERLIN HEAT

Photography: Svenson Linnert www.luckycolour.com Styling: Alexandra Heckel Hat: Rike Feuerstein Coat: Walter Kaltwasser, Berlin Costume: Laura Mackness by Weekday

Hair & Makeup: Ischrak Nitschke, Blossom Management Berlin Model: Elisa Schweiger, Viva Models Berlin Special Thanks: Walter Kaltwasser, Berlin and www.Proportion.Me

090 | Berlin Heat

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Hat: Stine Goya II Fishnet Leggings: JuliaundBen Shoes: Minimarket Berlin Heat | 091

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Pants: JuliaundBen Shirt: Proportion Shoes: Buffalo Jewelry: Sabrina Dehoff

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Hat: Stine Goya Overall: JuliaandBen Belt and Gloves: Caren Wester

Berlin Heat | 093

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Shawl: Fred Perry by Raf Simons Leggings: Henrik Vibskov Pants: Lee by Vivienne Westwood Shoes: adidas Y3

094 | Berlin Heat

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Hat: Stine Goya Overall: Henrik Vibskov Accessories: JuliaundBen Shoes: Henrik Vibskov

Berlin Heat | 095

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Shirt: Proportion Necklace: Sabrina Dehoff 096 | Berlin Heat

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Cap: Fred Perry Pants: Lee by Vivienne Westwood Blouse: Mini for Many by Minimarket Shoes: Henrik Vibskov

Berlin Heat | 097

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Skirt: Motel Jacket: Proportion Leggings: JuliaandBen Necklace: JuliaandBen 098 | Berlin Heat

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Hat: Rike Feuerstein Coat: Walter Kaltwasser, Berlin Costume: Laura Mackness by Weekday Shoes: Minimarket Berlin Heat | 099

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streetwear today VI | 2010

Fabian Stürtz -

„I like to observe what happens in my surrounding” Hi Fabian, you shot our event „streetwear today the live issue“ and were also presenting a photo series about “sneakbombing” there. What’s your personal relation to Streetwear?

My personal relation to streetwear is a very common one. My focus as photographer lies on documentations and portraits. The portraits are very authentic, most of the time. Before I start working I of course ask what the people I shoot are going to wear and we think what might fit to the photos we are going to take. It’s no surprise that I would prefer unusual clothing, but mostly

people wear what they feel comfortable in. So I try to photograph the common outfits in the most aesthetic way. I personally have a rather small sneaker collection and like to spend money on clothing.

How important is it for your creative work, that you can identify with the topic of your photo jobs?

Without a personal relation to the topic and without the right environment there can’t be the atmosphere I need to be inspired to take pictures. Especially at concerts I observe that I can be much more creative when I like what is hap-

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pening on stage. In most cases I don’t know completely what to expect, don’t know everything about the location or the musicians. I love to be surprised by the moment. Sometime I leave a concert after just two songs, but most of the time I’m surprised in a positive way.

Could you briefly describe your history?

In 2005 I shot my first manually exposed photo with my grandfather‘s rolleicord. Until then I had no special relation to photography. But after that my ambition to direct the photos grew and I bought my first slr-camera. By that time I still was an intern at an advertising agency. But shortly after I bought the SLR I got my first customers who asked how much I requested for a shooting. After the internship I thought about my next steps and soon came to the conclusion that I wanted to be a freelancer. Today I think that decision was a little bit naive. But at the same time it was absolutely right to make that step.

I enjoy being my own boss very much!

Regarding photography I very quickly found out that I wanted to set the focus of my work to people – either in portraits or documentations. Generally I’m not working in studios because I prefer authentic situations and atmospheres.

I like to observe these situations and don’t want to influence them too much.

When it comes to concerts shootings this totally works out. But even when I do portraits I very often have situations that can’t be arranged or planned.

On your homepage it is striking, that apart from portrait and documentation you’re also concerned with the theme “death”. What’s the reason for that and how is the balance between the different topics in your portfolio in general?

The last theme on my website is called „quiet“ and I put it there because I have a personal connection to that theme and this also is a very good closing-off for the homepage. As I said before, portraits and documentations are my focus - both are balanced very well and both deal with people. But still I also love to shoot quiet motives. For me that’s like photography about people without actually showing people.

Interview: Marcus Welt www.fabian-stuertz.com PEOPLE | 101

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sneakbombing Sneak Bombing is a cross-cultural concept combining graffiti and photography with music and live and on sight design of Sneakers. Founded in shadows of Cologne’s Cathedral by babakONE (Dedicated), Joerg Kuehnel of JKMusic and Pascal Prehn (Sneakerness Germany) the micture of art creation, event and community setting. At Steetwear Today Live they went in their third round fea-

turing Most and Panamoe drawing walls and shoes, Fabian Stürtz through the lens and souleil from the decks built The action. Next episodes of the spreading and prospering story are going to be Vienna’s Urban Art Exhibition Escape in October and Cologne’s best-rocking HipHop party and concert Beatpackers live in November. Catch us up when we exhibit and create art and fashion.

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Mosts’ wall for the Streetwear Today Live Sneak Bombing Session - Keep on Runnin’ First Session for Sneakerness 2010 Cologne, Artist Sair4

Artist Most preparing stuff at Streetwear Today Live Sneak Bombing Session

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babakONE

Kayo

Show your shoes - the results of the first Session to Sneakerness 2010 Cologne

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Maze

Sair4

Panamoe finishing his wall with a Roos - Streetwear Today Live Sneak Bombing Sessions 18th September

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Nearby the Sea Photographer: Alexander Schneider www.schneideralexander.com Production & Styling: Alexandra Krull, Laura Posdziech, Turid Reinicke, Lisa Strunz www.machtwasmitmedien.de Hair & Make Up: Katharina Franke using MAC www.katharina-franke.de Assistance: Mathias V. Gostomski Model: Kristin www.vivamodels.de II Robert www.m4models.de

Kristin Zipper: American Apparel Leatherjacket: RAW Zofia Sunglasses: Mykita Robert Beanie: Hook Berlin Coat: adidas Y-3 Nearby the Sea | 107

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Kristin Jacket: adidas Jeremy Scott Rubber Boot: adidas Originals Bustier & Short: Carin Wester Robert Jacket: Dreamteam Clothing Sweat: Cleptomanicx Short: UCON Acrobatics 108 | Nearby the Sea

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Kristin Jacket: adidas Originals Short: adidas by Stella Mc Cartney Nearby the Sea | 109

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Kristin Dress: American Apparel Cardigan: A.D. Deertz Coat: Starstyling Robert Short: American Apparel T-Shirt: King Krash Jacket: Ellesse Sunvisor: Starstyling 110 | Nearby the Sea

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Robert Jacket: Carhartt T-Shirt: Wood Wood Short: UCON Acrobatics

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Kristin Bandeau & Leggings: Stüssy Coat: Bless Shoes: adidas Y-3 Robert Sweater: Tiger of Sweden Jacket: UCON Acrobatics Short: American Apparel Cardigan: adidas Originals Shoes: adidas Y-3 112 | Nearby the Sea

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Kristin Leggings: Wood Wood Tanktop: American Apparel Cardigan: By Malene Birger College-Jacke: King Krash Beanie: adidas Originals Nearby the Sea | 113

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streetwear today VI | 2010

Woodsist

Lo-fi longhairs in the hightech world Does MP3 kill music? A question that determines lots of controversies.

Often the discussions spin around the way how music will vanish into a commercial only market segment that lost his archetype. But furthermore it’s about perception, about feeling the multidimensional vibrations of it. The digital format does not only kill the haptic experience of reproduced music on medias like cassettes or vinyl. It also kills through his compression the volume of sound and transforms the listening adventure into a flat superficial experience without deepness. A fact, that recently leads some musicians, labelowner, and producers to go way back into time, in order to do, live, make, and distrimusic the good bute old DIY way. Beside the european techno movement with all his sub categories, old punk tribes, or collector vinyl only labels currently brease some fresh air from the USA to turn back the clock. Alongside the Californian commune Not Not Fun Records the mysterious New York based longhair label Woodsist is swimming against the digital tide while releasing underground guitar

music mainly on vinyl and cassette tapes, who always include a colorful handmade artwork. Since 2006 label owner Jeremy Earl runs his ambitious company the charming retro way. All contracts with neo hippie folk, no-age, and psychedelic bands like Ganglians, Psychedelic Horseshit, Real Easte, Pocahaunted, or Art Museums are done by golden handshake.

And when handyman Jeremy is on tour with his own band Woods, the flagship of the label, business shuts down and sleeps gently. Instead of heaving the common underground labels dream of rapid success with trend oriented, good to market indierock, Woodsist avoids usual business struc­tures and professional on schedule values. An attitude that makes it sometimes hard for European diggers to get their latest obscure output.

Because every now and then no records are shipped, no telephone calls are answered and no edition of the famous cassette sublabel „Fuck it Tapes“ will leave the countrified headquarter in Warwick, NY. Under the roof of the country house also a studio is based where many of the jamming recording sessions are done. The other central locality of the Wood-

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sist tribe is based more east of New York in Ridgewood, where Woods tape effect technician G. Lunas Crane runs a house that functions like home, studio and concert venue. It is said that it is a place where the tape recorder never sleeps and where no highend gear filters the pure music expression that is done here regularly. A lo-fi attitude towards a recording that generates a rough sound signature packed with original music energy. If it is neo-folk from Woods, droneexperimental from Sun-Araw, or

the peerless live vibrancy of MV & EE, the band who combines Indian raga swing with native american folk and psychedelic experimentalism; all releases are marked with an unfiltered human touch of soul. To give some rough idea about the Woodsist spirit, you now can catch „Welcome Home - Digging the Universe“, the first proper recorded label compilation that features jawdropping exclusives from artists like Woods, Moon Duo, or Art Museums. On top lots of new projects like psychedelic folkers Run DMT or Sixtees Fuzzers White Fence broadcast creaky freshness while remembering the past. If this sounds interesting to you bear in mind that you need try to get a hold of it on tape or vinyl, because the digital way heists some of it’s natural spirit.

Text: Michael Leuffen V.A.: Welcome Home - Digging the Universe (A Woodsist Compilation) (Woodsist) www.woodsist.com

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Superpitcher

He came up from the country Repetitive rhythms, vibrant basslines, and ephemeral melodies: sometimes there is not much to say about dance music. You can talk about all those little moments that make you ecstatic while listening or dancing to a house or techno track. But mostly it is just one big loop changing from time to time, from fashion to fashion. No matter what style: most of the club music releases are still done for the moment, for the dance of the atoms between some speakers in a point of time. A fact that trans-

his art. Once he moved from the south german countryside to Cologne in order to expand his love of life: music. With his first singles during the early millenium he became one of the kings of schaffel-techno – one of the minimal techno disciplines that made the Cologne based record label Kompakt world-wide famous. Already at that time Ep’s like „Heroin“ or „Yesterday“ manifested that pop is on his side and his voice is ment for something bigger. Instead of looping the shuffle forever Superpitcher took a look inside, listened to his heart and produced with his first album „Here comes Love“ in 2004 a blueprint of pop techno – melancholic, tragic, and resistant towards time. Six years, several tracks, one longplayer together with his buddy Michael Mayer as Supermayer and many many frequent flier miles later he now releases „Kilimanjaro“ – a record that pays no attention to contemporary club

forms electronic dance music still into a genre that is constantly heading into new directions - even if it permanently remembers his past. But not each producer likes to be in a rat race in order to release tracks that make sure that his dj bookings keep on rolling. Aksel Schaufler aka Superpitcher is one of those guys who don’t care about the assembly line of dance music.

He likes to produce thoughtful - not at least because he really needs to feel

sound fashions. Instead it’s out on a limp in his own unique galaxy. Eleven gems full of grace between dub, techno, and pop. A varied magical box for listeners and dancers who want more the just a loop and some kick drums.

If Pop need a contemporary lift „Kilimanjaro“ is one possible expression.

Everything is pure soul, unvarnished, emotional, straight from the heart, and exceptional precise produced. Piano, guitar, and accordion dance upon

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rhythms between euphoria and unstressness. Here and there little kicks shake your hips, female voices bewitch your senses, and super sweat harmonies pet you gently. Upon all Superpitchers melancholic voice tells romantic stories and winking thoughts to hum along. That way he once again hijacks lovers, romantics, and tragical hipsters on a journey into a perfect arranged record dramaturgy that lead you with every new rotation deeper into his soul. So pin back your ears: a new thrilling friend comes into town

and you better come to know him! Cold days are coming soon â&#x20AC;&#x201C; he will keep you warm and take you out to a dance every now and then.

Text: Michael Leuffen Superpitcher: Kilimanjaro (Kompakt) Photographer: Marco Dos Santos

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streetwear today VI | 2010

Black Mountain

Out of the bluesy wilderness It’s said that any great rock band got his foundation myth. Reportedly Bon Scott found AC/DC via a newspaper ad. John Bonham and Robert Plant have known each other from childhood days and stayed live long friends as Led Zeppelin. And Portland Oregons famous couple Fred and Trudy Cole once fell unreckoned in love at a bar in order to become Dead Moon – the only real DIY love-affair that ever existed. All those bands have one thing in common: their heritage can be found in the sound of Black Mountain, a fearless, wild and nature loving quintet from Vancouver, Canada. Themselves claim no foundation myth. They all just been a couple of music loving kids in the wilderness of British Columbia who wear the same t-shirts and shoes while nodding to the truly cool songs at the local rock parties. Subsequently they nick out for a smoke, took a drink and formed Black Mountain. Since 2004 Matt Camirand, Stephen McBean, Jeremy Schmidt, Joshua Wells and Amber Webber share their lives while cavalierly reinventing the good old rock and roll in the mind- exspanding way. After two staggering varied longplayers and a string of singles they now release their third album „Wilderness Heart“ on the famous indie rock label Jagjaguwar from Bloomington, Indiana. Once again they enthuse with male/female in two voices duets above stormy super precise raw rock gems. Also charming campfire vocals and hairy metal singing enrich their

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diversified tunes. Musically they oscillate from electrified psychedelic rock to acoustic folk, from rough metal to a grandiose spacerock. Beside guitar, drum, bass, strings and organ also massive krautisch steaming synthesizers enlarge occasionally their swampy funky grooving version of blues affected rock.

Stw2d managed to have a quick chat with drummer Joshua Wells before they tour around the globe to bewitch the planet with sharp riffs, tight drumming and psychedelic melodies.

Hello Joshua - can you introduce yourself? Who are you?

I’m Joshua Wells, and I play the drums in Black Mountain. I’ve been a musician for as long as I can remember, and I come from a family of musicians. I have had to work many day jobs, but none of them are of any importance to the music, other than paying the bills so that I can play it.

Inspiration?

Other music, the outdoors (forests, lakes, mountains, silence), the way people talk, the way people look, books, etc...

How important is Funk for your sound?

Funk and soul music of the old school variety is very important to me as a drummer, and I strive to achieve the economy of sound, tasteful choices and make-youwanna-shake-your-ass qualities of the golden era of those rhythm sections.

What would be the characteristic of a Black Mountain, if it would exist in the real world?

Ominous and stormy, looming over the city, sending funny smelling clouds its way...

How would you describe the signs of our times in your words and how does the sound of Black Mountain refer to them?

Paranoia, hysteria...this is reflected in our music but also the promise of hope for better times ahead and a love that could bind us all.

Can you describe your new album stylistically in your own words?

Tighter, more confident swathes of rock and roll. Concise swagger.

Where do your tight melodies come from?

They are born from confusion but become clear once they see the light of the sun. They come from the same place as you or I...a spark!

How much gut instinct is in your music?

I would say that our music is mostly gut, with a little tiny bit of over-intellectualizing.

You have a female and a male singer - do they represent different characters in the songs?

They do always interact. Sometimes they play different characters, sometimes different sides of the same character.

Do you think Rock can utilize some musical activists?

We are not inclined towards the overt political statement, or the worldly, pseudo-benevolent meddling of a Bono type character. I believe that music can help people to find a better way to live, or merely some joy, or perhaps just to provoke a reaction, without influencing them with bald rhetoric or political overtones.

You recorded your new album in Los Angels. How big was the influence of the endless freeways on your new album “Wilderness Heart”? It sounds like it is made for a long car ride.

I drove the freeways a little while we were in LA recording (half of the album), but I tried to avoid them on a day to day basis going back and forth from the studio to our hotel. I favored the breezy back roads through Hollywood; they gave us a better feel for the history and real vibe of the place. There is a really relaxed attitude to some of those songs that at least I can hear. It was freeing to be out in the sun in the middle of wintertime, while in Vancouver the sky would usually hang low and clausterphobic.

How folky are you?

Somewhat.

What you aim with your music?

To have fun, to make others happy, to be loud, to have something to look back upon when I’m older, to be good at something, to lend my life legitimacy!

If you could take a year off work, what would you do with it?

Well, I’m taking a year (or more) off of work right now, and this is how I’m spending it! Touring the world with a rock’n’roll band!

What do you do to keep yourself from loosing it every now and then?

Eat well, sleep well, get some sunlight, read books, spend time alone in silence.

Text and Interview: Michael Leuffen Black Mountain: Wilderness Heart (Jagjaguwar) www.blackmountainarmy.com Media | 119

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Aloe Blacc

Educate your soul Marvin Gaye, James Brown, Sam Cook, Curtis Mayfield: the list of afro american musicians that injected some social and political content into their works is long and definitely not history. The freshest example is Egbert Nathaniel Dawkins III aka Aloe Blacc. A name that especially HipHop lovers should know since more then a decade. Because before the 1979 born man from Los Angeles transformed into a casual neo Soul gentleman, he was a highly acclaimed new blood Rap-MC. „Around age 15 I started the Hip Hop project Emanon with DJ Exile. Hip Hop educated me on many different styles of music because when Exile and I were making songs, we were sampling from all genres. I also had some musical education as a trumpet player in school, but hip hop made me fall in love with being an artist and not just a musician. I learned to create my own music rather than just play notes printed on a sheet of music.“ he explains about his rapping past, in which he and his buddy DJ Exile had unique underground Hip Hop releases as Emanon already since 1998. But instead of being a full time rapper Blacc first finished his university studies, while building up his music career along the way. Beside releasing HipHop he also participated in 2006 at the famous Red Bull Music Academy in order to train his skills as a songwriter, producer, and singer deeply. On his first Aloe Blacc longplayer „Shine Through“ his voice rotated between crooning and rapping above a bunch of eclectic tracks full of synthesizer sounds, salsa snippets, and field recordings.

Now his days as a rapper are all over and he calls himself a Soul singer with the aim of writing music that have positive impact on social changes. With the change of topics from personal to political he delivers now the album „Good Things“ - an organic Soul and Funk driven report on present topics that talk

about „joblessness, homeless, the misappropriation of wealth, pillaging of resources, and a universal lack of compassion from the capitalism at large under which we all function, but some struggle to survive“ as the promotion press note says. „My initial intent was to make a solid album. It does stand against the synthetic and meaningless music that floods the media today, but that is more of an after thought than on purpose.“ Aloe explains about the requirements to his thirteen new songs, that also feature a cover version of the Velvet Underground classic - Femme Fatale -. The airy, ethereal Soul and Funk vibrations of the whole album skillfully remind on Marvin Gaye during his „What’s Going On“ period, while delivering easy to catch melodies full of social content. Particularly the poetic dealing with global political problems injects his classic orchestrated sound some freshness, that any other current retro Soul outcry is missing slightly. To spread the vibe of his brand new old Soul live and direct, Aloe Blacc travels in cooperation with our beloved Brand Carhartt all over Europe. As a side event of the tour, Carhartt also celebrates the release of the exclusive CD “Dark End of the Street”, which is available at all Carhartt stores and Carhartt retailers. The cd features unstoppable Soul, Funk, and Boogie tracks by Stones Throw Records, Soul-Cal, and Now-Again Records artists such as Mayer Hawthorne, Dam-Funk, and Paul White. Also some previously unreleased gems from acts like Freedom Express, Dimlite, and Paul White round off the track list. The highlight is an exclusive Aloe Blacc cover version of the classic “The Dark End of The Street” previously performed by such artists as James Carr, Eva Cassidy, or Cat Power. A cover version that show once again how courageous Aloe tries to bring back some content into Soul music. On stage he now spreads his aims together with his freshly formed band The Grand Scheme. And you better not miss the golden opportunity to see this charming entertainer live in an intimate venue near you. Because when he delivers more songs like his summer hit „I Need A Dollar“ he soon will play in large ballrooms where the mainstream audience is waiting despairingly for some musical education.

Text: Michael Leuffen Aloe Blacc: Good Things (Stones Throw) www.stonesthrow.com/aloeblacc www.carhartt-wip.com

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CARHARTT PRESENTS: THE ALOE BLACC EUROPEAN TOUR 09/29/2010 Amsterdam, Paradiso 09/30/2010 Rotterdam, Rotown 10/01/2010 Münster, Skaters Palace 10/02/2010 Berlin, Bohannon Soul Club 10/03/2010 Cologne, Bahnhof Ehrenfeld 10/05/2010 Vienna, Porgy & Bess 10/06/2010 Munich,Puerto Giesing 10/07/2010 Darmstadt, 603qm 10/08/2010 Zurich, Stall 6 10/09/2010 Basel, Kaserne 10/11/2010 Marseille, Cabaret Aleatoire 10/12/2010 Lyon, L’Epicerie Moderne 10/13/2010 Bordeaux, Barbey Rock School 10/14/2010 Paris, Trabendo 10/15/2010 Tourcoing, Grand Mix 10/16/2010 Leuven, Depot 10/17/2010 Ghent, Vooruit 10/19/2010 London, Jazz Cafe 10/20/2010 Manchester, Sound Control 10/21/2010 Leeds, Hi-Fi Club 10/22/2010 Bristol, Metropolis

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streetwear today VI | 2010

V.A.: Local Customs: Lone Star Lowlands (Numero Group) Hard to believe but one of the freshest records of the year is a compilation that features songs who been recorded between 1969 and 1974. With „Lone Star Lowlands“ the Chicago based re-release label Numero Group lifts another treasure of music that never been out before. This time they rifle through the dusty tape archives of the label Lowland out of Beaumont, Texas.

Around that town a bunch of bands called Mother

Lion, Boot Hill, or Mourning Sun once formed a vibrant scene that mainly enthuse their local peers with rock full of free thinking longhair spirit. After long time been buried in the basement now 22 dazzling songs between swampy boogie rock, psychedelic garage, and cosmic blues see the light of the day in order to take the world with a vintage charme that make you (ml) strongly believe in flower power again.

dOP: Greatest Hits (Circus Company) It is always good to have classical trained music skills.

Especially when you produce electronic music. The French trio dOP got those skills, because before they fell in love with House they like to play Jazz, Hip Hop, Rock, and Reggae. After a string of highly acclaimed EP’s now their thrilling debut longplayer “Greatest Hits” combines all their knowledge under one roof.

With an army of instruments ranging from horns, piano, flute, and harmonica to analog synthesizers and

acoustic drums they produced 14 nuggets who are not just made to shake a leg. The touching voice of lyricist Jonathan Illel rather spreads edgy pop emotions above funky arrangements between swing jazz, ambient blues, four-to-the-flour piano madness, and soulful organic house, who all groove gently in order to move you with a wide variety of moods. (ml)

The Machine: Redhead (Rekids) Gulls are croaking in the sky, the sea surf swashes gently, and the mast of a sailing boat crackles beneath a spheric ambient loop: the 13-minute opening track of „ Redhead“, the new album of Matt Edwards aka Radio Slave under his freshly invented alias The Machine, takes you slowly on a hypnotic trip that fathom the clash of electronic music and archaic global rhythms. Already with his downtempo project Quiet Village the Berlin based Briton demonstrated that

he is able to produce more then just moving dancetracks. As The Machine he now heads into experimental directions where meditative bass-lines, church choirs, jazz drummings and afro percussions dance with tribal singings and other sonic world soundscapes. If you like to travel around the globe with sound, this is one of the most thrilling contemporary way to do it. (ml)

Paul Smith: Margins (Billingham Records) Those who followed the story of the Newcastle, UK based rockband Maxïmo Park passionate always felt that their charismatic singer Paul Smith will once come up with a solo record. Because his lyrics are so intense and his need to express his thoughts and feelings so unstoppable, that one band can’t fulfill all his artistic ambitions. Now he did – and this not in the impulsive Maxïmo Park way. Instead he composed a

private record, that got a touch of melancholy between irresistible hook-lines. With his lyrics Smith once again proof that he is one of the most gifted pop essayists of our time, while singing to mostly earthy acoustic compositions. That the whole recording is kept low inhales all songs an intimacy, which makes it easy to forget the world around while getting lost in the narratives of his poetic observations. (ml)

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Wake The Line

International Wakeboard- and Wakeskate Contest in Cologne, Germany When I heard about Wake The Line for the first time I thought it was a joke!

A wakeboard event in a public swimming bath? That didn’t make sense. But when I saw pictures of the contest I immediately realised the brilliance behind that idea. What I knew about wakeboarding was that you need water, a lot of space and if there is any audience at all, they are normally pretty far away from the action. But what took place in Cologne on the 4th of July just blew my mind. As you can see on the pictures, the designers of Unit Parktech (www.unit-parktech.com) connected three swimming pools in a row with the biggest and best obstacles and ramps they could build – even with the possi­ bility to ride the track in both directions. In addition to that, the location of­ fered a grandstand for about 6000 people only some meters away from the action. Absolutely crazy and the largest wakeboard obstacle only event in the world with 24 wakeboard and wake­ skate riders and a total trophy money of $ 10.000! Altogether 12.000 peo­ ple watched the qualifying and the contest and were able to see big rid­ ers like Keith Lidberg (USA), Kevin Henshaw (USA) or Shawn Watson (USA) enjoying this most spectacu­ lar action. The tricks they presented were amazing and the whole contest was absolutely stunning with high voltage till the end. In the wake­ board super final Raphael Derome (Can) won ahead of Nico von Lerch­ feld (Ger) and Shawn Watsen (USA).

In the wakeskate super final Ger­

man rider Jan Kissmann triumphed against Ben Horan (USA) and Lukas Süß (Ger). The whole event was broadcasted live worldwide in HD quality via www.freecaster.de, which also set a new standard for sport events like these.

I’m looking forward already to next year’s event surely will try wakeboarding myself!

For more information please visit www.redbullwaketheline.com

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Photographer: Jörg Zimmermann

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STENCIL ONLY Collective show dedicated to the art of the stencil When the first Spacejunk art center opened the doors in Grenoble in 2003 the key to success was to develop it to a vivid central point of the local art scene.

With the opening of other centers in Bayonne, Lyon and Bourg-Saint-Maurice, Spacejunk established itself in the whole of France as one of the important players when it comes to popular art. Owner and curator of the project, JĂŠrome Catz, created accessible venues, specifically and exclusively dedicated to the

board culture, street art and pop surrealism movements. Their purpose is to report these movements through the prism of art and see the value and importance of these living cultures. Spacejunk supports the exchange between artists and visitors and makes contemporary art more accessible to the public and particularly young people. After numerous successful exhibitions and events Spacejunk now dedicates itself to the art on the stencil.

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streetwear today VI | 2010

At once a technique and a movement, the stencil has inscribed itself into the French tradition of urban art which dates back to the 1980’s and the punk generation. The stencil nowadays is emulated everywhere in the world; its presence felt in the streets as much as in the gallery or salesroom.

Spacejunk has challenged a certain number of its artists who have had little or no experience working in this medium, to face off with a group of European and American artists specialized in the field during the course of the exhibit. The selection of artists was carried out by Samantha Longhi, Europe’s stencil expert.

Along with the expansion of contemporary graphic design and illustration, the stencil has defined itself as a mode of expression and an artistic movement for the 21st century.

Participating artistes: Vinz (France) Odö (France) C215 (France) Coeur (France) Sadhu (France) Koleszar (USA) Joe Lurato (USA) Jana & Js (Austria) Iamdoom (Holland) Leckomio (Germany) Orticanoodles (Italia) Epsylon Point (France) Artiste - Ouvrier (France) Nicolas Thomas (France) STF / Stéphane Moscato (France) Logan Hicks (USA) Nikodem (France) Exhibition tour dates Bayonne : May 07th - June 19th Pau : May 24th - May 29th Lyon : June 24th - July 31st Grenoble : September 09th - October 23rd Bourg-St-Maurice : October 28th - December 11th

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streetwear today VI | 2010

The Eastpak Antidote Tour 2010 Summer is gone and memories of this year’s favorite open-air festivals are fading away quicker than your vacation money. But it’s too early to get into your annual autumn depression because there still is something to look forward to - at least when you are living in Europe. The Eastpak Antidote Tour is hitting the continent for the 6th time this year and the line-up is once again promising good fun in the coming times of darkness and despair. There’s Sum 41 from Canada, Jim Lindberg’s new band The Black Pacific, Riverboat Gamblers from Texas and the newcomers of Veara. Sum 41 must be very hot to get back on a festival stage after they had to cancel the last four shows of this year’s Vans Warped Tour. Singer Deryck Whibley suffered from an old back injury after he was attacked in a bar in Japan. There’s not much information about that incident but cancelling the tour dates surely was a frustration for the whole band. So visitors of the Eastpak Antidote Tour may see Sum 41 with even more energy and anger than they a normally famous for.

Jim Lindberg is of course famous for his former band Pennywise, a true US hardcore icon we don’t have to talk about much. He left the band in 2009 after 20 years due to different creative opinions. His new band The Black Pacific released their first album in September already and it’s obvious, that the guys created something to look forward to during the Antidote Tour: A great varied mixture of raw guitars and melodic vocals that proves that Jim Lindberg hasn’t lost his ability to write outstanding and timeless songs.

Isn’t it a coincidence that The Riverboat Gamblers were on tour with Pennywise in September before they join the Antidote Tour line-up in October? The band from Texas started in 1997 and has since then released 6 albums. On stage, singer Mike Wiebe is a class of his own and an authentic personification of the Gambler’s aggressive garage-punk sound. Their latest album “Underneath The Owl” set standards regarding uncompromising song writing and to see the band on stage is always a special experience.

The line-up of the 2010 Antidote Tour is completed by Veara from the United States who toured already with bands like The Maine, Danger Radio and A Day To Remember.

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streetwear today VI | 2010

The Complete Eastpak Antidote Tourdates: OCTOBER 2010 Mi 27 Norwich UK Do 28 Southampton UK Fr 29 London UK So 31 Glasgow UK

UEA Guildhall Forum ABC

NOVEMBER 2010 Mo 01 Manchester Di 02 Birmingham Mi 03 Bristol Fr 05 Tilburg Sa 06 Luxembourg So 07 Paris Mo 08 Brussels Mi 10 Toulouse Do 11 Barcelona Fr 12 Lyon Sa 13 Milan So 14 Vienna Di 16 Zurich Mi 17 Karlsruhe

Academy Academy Academy O13 Rockhal Elysee Montmatre AB Le Bikini Razzmattazz Transbordaeur Alcatraz Gasometer Volkshaus Substage

UK UK UK Netherlands Luxembourg France Belgium France Spain France Italy Austria Suisse Germany

Fr Sa So Di Do Fr Sa So Di

19 Münster 20 Berlin 21 Copenhagen 23 Helsinki 25 Stockholm 26 Gothenburg 27 Hamburg 28 Düsseldorf 30 Leipzig

Germany Germany Denemark Finland Sweden Sweden Germany Germany Germany

DECEMBER 2010 Mi 01 Neu-Isenburg Germany

Skaters Palace Huxleys Amagher Bio Cable Factory Klubben Brewhouse Markthalle Stahlwerk Auensee

Hugenothalle

More Information: www.eastpak.com www.antidotetour.com www.sum41.com www.myspace.com/blackpacific www.theriverboatgamblers.com www.myspace.com/veara

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Nº 31

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streetwear today VI | 2010

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