CULTURE
Ogata is a place of contemporary expression for the arts, guided by an original look. What if a new culture was born from these encounters and exchanges?
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VISITING OGATA: THE JOURNEY
In a statement that is rarely seen but widely needed in our society, photography is not permitted in many areas of the space. From entering the reception area, you must fully immerse yourself in the atmosphere, and let go of the need to document it through a lens.
Not only does this enable you to become more present in the experience, but it also creates a mystery around the brand — it can only be truly understood when visited. The exclusivity created through the absence of imagery in a world where we can see places we will never be physically in is refreshing, alluring and convincing.
This account will share the images Ogata permit to be taken, and the remaining experience will be told as a story, and left to the imagination to conjure.
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Upon entering Ogata, we passed a map of the space and came across a traditional sink with a wooden water ladle, and cleansed our hands ready to step into the experience and leave the day behind.
We were guided past the boutique and atelier to a set of stairs — the way to the Sabo. The roof was curved stone, the passage to the basement of the 17th century mansion. Brass studs created a tactile floor that not only symbolised the expectation of a step, but felt like a physical reminder that you were crossing a threshold into a new space and state of mind.
As we walked down the stone steps, the light became dimmer and we could hear the sound of trickling water; the source was a simple but calming feature at the foot of the stairs. A huge copper door opened slowly and silently, revealing the Sabo behind it.
A room with no sharp corners — every edge had been rounded to feel inviting and safe. The sound of water was still present but had a different tone, and we noticed it was emitting from a moving sculpture; a collection of what looked like nut shells rotating and tapping gently against one another.
We were welcomed to the tea bar and greeted by our tea master, a French woman wearing a white linen jacket, bright red glasses and curly grey hair. She was kind and friendly, and proceeded to take us on a tea experience like no other.
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TEA SERVICE ONE: GYOKURO
SERVING 1 OF 4
Infused for three minutes at thirty five degrees. Very little water used — just enough to dampen the leaves. Brewed in a shallow, wide vessel with lid and spout. A traditional hourglass was used to time the infusion.
Served in a beautiful white porcelain cup, small and narrow. A tiny amount of tea, just enough to dampen the mouth.
A strong taste, as this was the first extraction of flavour from the leaves. Tastes somewhere between umami and bitter, slightly more towards the bitter side. Bright green in colour. A fresh, green flavour that awakened the taste buds.
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PREPARATION SERVING TASTE
SERVING 2 OF 4
PREPARATION
Infused for three minutes at thirty five degrees. More water used this time — enough for a small cup each. Brewed in the same shallow, wide vessel. A traditional hourglass was used to time the infusion.
Served in the same white porcelain cup, this time we could see the tea through the fine walls.
The tea tasted stronger this time, despite there being more water involved in the infusion. It was as though after the first interaction with water, the leaves had now opened up and released their flavours and aromas more.
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SERVING TASTE
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SERVING 3 OF 4
SERVING TASTE
Served in a larger tea bowl, you could visibly notice the colour and tea sediment in the bottom of the cup. The aroma enveloped you as you lifted the bowl to drink.
A warming yet fresh and awakening infusion. Less bitterness this time, thirst quenching and refreshing.
FOOD PAIRING
White bean paste filled with a honey and ginger centre. Soft, sweet and spicy. This completely changed the flavour of the tea, removing any bitterness and bringing new qualities to the forefront.
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SERVING 4 OF 4
SERVING TASTE
This infusion was served cold, therefore a very different experience. Twelve blueberries were carefully placed into a small ceramic pitcher, and mashed carefully with a pestle. They were then joined by a spherical ice cube, as the tea brewed with as much water as could fit into the shallow vessel. When the tea was ready, it was poured into the pitcher — the ice cracking loudly as the opposite temperatures infused together. Then after carefully stirring, the tea was strained into two tall, slim glasses.
Refreshing, invigorating and clean. The blueberries added a slight sweetness but didn’t overpower the tea.
FOOD PAIRING
The tea leaves were served with a soy and yuzu sauce. Umami savoury flavour with a hint of sweetness, incredibly moreish. Served on a small, flat, ceramic plate with integrated chopstick stand, and eaten with wooden chopsticks.
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TEA SERVICE TWO: MATCHA
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SERVING 1 OF 2: TENCHA
PREPARATION
We examined the tencha leaves prior to grinding, experiencing the sights and smells of the leaf before brewing. We enjoyed an infusion so as to compare the flavours before the leaves are processed.
SERVING
We examined the tencha leaves prior to grinding, experiencing the sights and smells of the leaf before brewing. We enjoyed an infusion so as to compare the flavours before the leaves are processed.
TASTE
The infusion tasted fresh, strong and bitter. It was green in colour, but nothing in comparison to matcha — when the ground leaves are consumed within the water.
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SERVING 2 OF 2: MATCHA
The matcha was carefully measured out, combined with water from the copper pot and whisked to create a frothy, creamy brew.
SERVING
Served in a beautiful wabi-sabi bowl, with bronze glaze and earthy textures in the clay. The colour was a vivid green, with the froth covering the surface of the tea.
PREPARATION TASTE
Less bitter then other matcha we have experienced, it tasted smooth, fresh and energising.
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SERVING 2 OF 2: MATCHA
FOOD PAIRING
We were presented with another display box, this time holding a selection of mochi for us to choose from. We chose a cherry filling, wrapped in glutinous rice flour dough and coated with dried soya bean powder.
TASTE
Less sweet than expected, the mochi was soft and had a gentle flavour. It paired well with the matcha, removing bitterness and creating a smooth, delicious taste.
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TEA SERVICE THREE: HOUJICHA
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The houjicha was shared with us as the dried, green stems of the plant. We could see their texture, shape and size, and smell the fresh aroma.
Our tea master then placed the stems into a ceramic pan, and roasted them over a stove. We could see the sparks flying from the pan as she tossed the contents, and gradually the room began to fill with the smell of roasted tea. Once the roasting was complete, the steam from the pan was spread around the area, and we were comforted by the nutty, roasted smell of the stems. They had become brown in colour, dry and fragrant.
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PREPARATION
SERVING 1 OF 2
SERVING 1 OF 2
SERVING
The stems were then brewed in a small teapot, and the tea was poured into dark grey bowls for us to taste.
TASTE
The flavour of the houjicha was nutty, woody and roasted. There was no bitterness, just a comforting, warming taste and sensation. It felt as though we had been taken on a journey — beginning with the Gyokuro enlivened us, and then we were carefully grounded at the end of the experience with the gentle houjicha.
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SERVING 1 OF 2
FOOD PAIRING
A wooden plate holding three red beans in a sweet sauce, and a selection of pickled vegetables: carrot, two types of radish and seaweed.
TASTE
We were advised to eat the seaweed last due to a lasting flavour, so we began with the sweet red beans. Their flavour contrasted strongly with the roasted tea, bringing a dessert feel to the experience.
The pickles had a smoky taste, which got stronger with each layer. Beginning with the carrot, on to white radish which were both crunchy in texture. The brown radish was softer, and had a taste reminiscent of pickled fungus. The seaweed, reserved until the end as recommended, had a very strong flavour. It was strong, smoky and woody — the after-taste was more pleasant as it settled on the palette. These smoky flavours paired perfectly with the roasted tea, enhancing the warming properties.
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Under the vaults of the basement, KAORI is a place of appreciation of the culture of fragrances, between remedy and delight. A selection of original natural fragrances is offered. Bespoke fragrances are also offered, using a unique method designed to promote harmony and well-being.
To prolong the experience of Ogata, I purchased incense from the Kaori. I selected the Shirakawa incense sticks, with a scent of sandalwood. The aroma is fresh and clean, and woody without feeling too heavy. The packaging, as with everything at Ogata, is truly beautiful.
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KAORI
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A FINAL WORD
Ogata is not just a brand. It is an experience that will have a place in my memory for as long as I live. The combination of concept, beauty, refinement and the utmost care and curation have created a space like no other. The serenity that enveloped me during my time there is something I will strive to experience more often in my life, and the incense is a small part of that day I will use as a reminder that inner peace is achievable.
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