Thesis: processbook

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book one

the beauty of tradition in a modernized world henry nguyen


fashion

culture tradition branding

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Tradition has been embedded in culture from generation to generation, and evolves with the continual modernization of the world as it progresses through time. With this evolution, what once may have been a tradition may no longer suit the culture of present day, but instead be lost in the midst of an ever-changing society For my thesis I want to create a fashion brand that is about reminiscing, reliving and reviving of traditions through the craft and creation of unique garments. Inspired from rituals and traditions of the Vietnamese culture, a beautiful marriage between tradition and modernism is created to enhance present day fashion for a contemporary world.

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research&development the brand

Contents branding process

the pattern 07

similar organizations 08 ao dai vinh 08 18waits 10 thai Nguyen collections 13 market 15 personality & lifestyle 16 lifestyle 21 be different 21 brand values 23 mission 25

the name brand name brain storming thought process

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concept 1 thought process

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concept 2 french borrowed words questionnaire thought process

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concept 3 the legend thought process

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concept 4 straw explorations

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pattern 51 indigenous 53 thought process 57 textiles museum patterning and dragon

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ao dai (long dress) thought process

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symbolic 64 symbolic imagery 66 dragon 67 further investigation 67 eastern dragons 68 western dragons 69 phoenix 70 floral 70 ochna integerrima 71 lotus flower 71 palette 73 national colour & flag 74 emblem of Vietnam 75


The brand::

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Branding process In order to create a successful brand, it is necessary to look at similar organizations to fully inform ones design awareness and process. Being aware of the surrounding environment will only strengthen ones vision on what the brand will capture; the personality that the brand would be perceived as. The demographics of the brand is another careful consideration that holds importance. Having a precise target market will allow for the editing of the design process. This ensures that the brand suits the right clientele effectively and efficiently.

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website

similar organizations To build a strong and successful brand, it is necessary to be aware of similar organizations to inform the design awareness and process.

Ao dai vinh A company that specializes in different Ao Dai designs from traditional to modern. They offer custom design services for international and local consumers. Targeting an international clientele, their website lacks an identity as well as a sense of aesthetic in design that does not differentiate itself from those of its competitors, a lack of cohesion between the website and the brand itself. Their target clientele are both male and female ranging from the ages of 16 to 40 years old.

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source images from Ao dai vinh

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website

18waits 18 Waits is a local Toronto-based brand. Although the products they carry do not fall into the same category, the quality of the garments share is exceptional for a local brand. Being able to see a brand establish themselves through their superior quality and design aesthetic proves an inspiration of all sorts. It allows for the observation of and to be able to see how they established themselves from their design aesthetics and branding will further help me understand how to go forward with my brand and see the do and don’t of a fashion brand. 18waits’ website, contrasting that of Ao Dai Vinh, is cohesive in order to portray their theme and lifestyle that they had chosen to through their brand. A promotional video on their homepage allows viewers to easily learn about their culture, a unique and simple tool that gets that successfully delivers their message to its audience. Overall the brand has a strong presence, uniqueness and cohesion that many local brands have a difficulty finding. A suggestion for a more eye-catching logo would be to heighten the contrast, and make the colours more vibrant.

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logo

lifestyle 18 Waits is a common ground for like-minded individuals. It is a lifestyle as opposed to simply a brand or fashion label. It’s a way of life inspired by a joie de vivre and an appreciation of the finer things in life like an old pair of leather boots or a child’s painting. 18 Waits has an old European mentality which, at the same time, takes inspiration in nature and the natural flow of the earth. It is a lifestyle which adheres just as much to Parisian cafÊs as it does to old English pubs, 1920s New York speakeasies, wood cabins by the lake, old upright pianos, poetry, literature, and 1970s rock and roll music. The clothes are built well from the finest fabrics appropriate for each item within the collection. There is virtually no detail overlooked and thoughtfully addressed. These items are meant to be worn well, enjoyed, loved, and destroyed.

source images from 18waits

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Thai Nguyen collections Numerous collections designed by Thai Nguyen, a successful fashion designer in in the AmericanVietnamese community, take the traditional Ao Dai and adds his own modern twist in design and detailing (more so than many I have seen in similar industries). His inspiration is drawn from his Vietnamese heritage. His brand presence itself is very weak, where his designs are relatively strong and present. The branding strategy seems to be not thought trough and lacks cohesion. His website does not live up to his reputations. The design of the overall website is really poor and it lacks professionalism. The website lacks hierarchy of size of texts displayed on the site and the brand logo doesn’t fit well with the general design of the website, accentuating the disconnect between the branding and the garments created.

logo

source images from Thai nguyen

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market For people who love fashion and for those who appreciate new innovative designs that bring back culture of the past, into the present. This brand is also for those who have a close relationship to Vietnamese culture and know the significance of the traditional Ao Dai, the inspiration that ties this brand and collection together. The Ao Dai is worn by all of Vietnamese descent, and nowadays, also by tourists and anyone who takes interest in the culture, from children’s to adults. The Ao Dai is known for its elegance, making it suitable for many social events and gatherings. Many types of Ao Dai are designed to suit the various activities present in a typical Vietnamese day; uniforms for school, elegant dresses for soirees, or just casual, every-day wear. The Ao Dai has gained an international presence, where it has received an award for Most Beautiful National Costume in 2005. Many designers, Vietnamese or not, have taken a spin at modernizing the Ao Dai in there own way, where many collections are seen in yearly fashion shows or worn by admired celebrities such as Rihanna. It is in my belief that there is a wide market for a brand that features the rejuvenation of a modern-day Ao Dai, especially to males and females 18-30 years of age. It is different; it is an opportunity to stand out and to emulate a unique culture that many have yet to learn about.

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mood board

Personality & lifestyle of the brand A mood board was created to help visually define the personality of the brand. This mood board will help define the colour palette and overall identity of the brand.

lifestyle

market values vision 18


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individuality be different

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lifestyle It is very important to know and define the lifestyle that the brand portrays. Most consumers buy into brands because of the persona that the brand carries. Therefore it is crucial to fully define the lifestyle and attributes of the brand in the early stages, in order to maintain a coherency in the process of design and execution.

be different The brand that shares the ideal of self-expression and individualism. A lifestyle that carries the mentality of taking risks in fashion, and everyday life; for those not afraid to stand out. It is for those who appreciate art and culture, exceeding limits beyond the norm. Inspired by the idea of tradition and avant-garde, the creation of unique clothing for those who are daring to be different, embracing innovations.

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modern edgy artistic creative culture 24


brand values Defining the brand values help consumers understand what this brand is all about. It strengthens the brand personality and allows for a clear vision of the over lifestyle that the brand inherits.

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These brand values were chosen, as I wanted the brand be to about self-expression, about the capability of being who you are, different from the rest. I want the brand to be a bold statement in self-appreciation.

innovative creative culture fusion mesh bold edgy artistic daring statement unconventional breaking-free expression tradition unity

} Is a brand inspired by the idea of using traditional clothing as an inspirational platform in the creation of fashion that is edgy, modern and not too common in western culture. Is a brand that meshes the ideals of traditional and modern fashion together as a cohesive brand that celebrates the idea of tradition, one that can be worn anywhere and everywhere in the 21th century.

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brand promises

straw

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mission Our mission is to create garments that are representative not only of the culture of Vietnam, but of one of an openminded-daring-to-be-different individual.

target market men & women from 18 - 25

brand values innovative creative culture fusion mesh bold edgy artistic daring statement unconventional breaking-free expression tradition unity

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chanel gucci prada yves saint laur lanvin alexan versace herm prada 28


rent nder mcqueen mes brand name

Finding the right brand name is crucial in creating any brand. The name should be unique, easy to recall and meaningful. The name of the brand will determine the overall personality it has and may also graphically dictate the brand identity. It took many vigorous attempts to find the perfect brand name that would unify all the key concepts and ideas of this brand.

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猫re link circle seal Catalyst Nucleus Scale euphoric orb era myth ritual faith mesh edge statement

black bold retro old newold renew refresh remold morph change transform fragment retrospect Law pulse alloy raw

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pupa cacoon shell

l么gic modern l么gic nostalgic ego nostalgic era nostalgic link nostalgique retro link r茅tro law borrowed bold Ego Alter ego bold era urban faith new dated re-old aged aetas : Era inclino : Change mutatio : Alter vicissitudo : Alter novitas : Newness novo : make anew inventor : inventor


brain storming Different words were explored to help jump start possible brand names, in hopes of finding a unique and meaningful identity.

nostalgic nostalgia elicit retain reincarnation conserve possess resurrection rebirth thought process The names are carefully selected with the idea that the brand should use a word mark that expresses the concept of “remembering tradition�, the state of mind of embracing tradition. After the realization that these words were too generic, it was decided that no ownership would be taken on any of these selected words. The continued search for a suitable name continued as I went back to the drawing board.

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respect & dutiful

religion

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concept 1 These words were selected as they portray the ideal of paying respect to ones culture. As this brand is about embracing culture and using it as a foundation of inspiration, they seemed highly suitable.

Pious

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Pious is defined by the action of showing respect and giving back to your parents, individuals of importance, or religion. These aspects are highly present in Vietnamese heritage and morals, and are also virtues of Buddhism that have been practiced for countless generations.

Hiáşżu

Pious

Vietnamese for pious

} Piety devour fulfillment of religious obligations, being pious. To be dutiful, showing respect or regard to homeland, parents.

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=

BRAND culture tradition fusion

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of modern & tradition

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Piety | Pious | Hiếu

Contempo | Neoteric | Modern Trying to find the words that resonate the cultures and heritage of Vietnam, not omitting the ideal of present day modernism. I was on quest for words that would function in conjunction with ‘piety’ or ‘pious’ in order to showcase a brand that was unique and different.

thought process In the end, it was established that piety or pious both carried negative connotations which could have played harmful for the overall brand. The word Hieu was also an inadequate choice, even though it carries great meaning and historic qualities. The translation in western culture is still ‘piety’, a word that can carry meanings subject to its beholder. It was decided that Hieu was not the right direction for the brand.

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&french

vietnam

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concept 2 A unique use to these words could be played into my branding. It shows the richness of culture between the Vietnamese and the French. It also signifies a certain identity that French culture already emits in its own language and fashion culture.

French borrowed words Vietnam was once a French colony and was colonized for about 100 years. It is therefore not a surprise that the French had a culture influence on the Vietnamese, even in Vietnamese language. In history, the French have assisted with the development of an alphabet for the Vietnamese language. Would it be an interesting concept to use French-loaned words as a possible name for the brand? These French borrowed words pertains to Vietnamese culture but also embrace the French language, some of which can be deciphered by English speaking individuals.

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vietnamese colonized using something borrowed

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history language french

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French borrowed words are words that Vietnamese people use/borrow from the French. During French colonization, the Vietnamese had learned of these words and adapted it into the Vietnamese language thus the reason why certain words are similar in sound and spelling.

French borrowed words

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Words the I explored

Vietnamese —A— A-lẹt : alerte alô: allô amiđan: amygdale amatơ: amateur amiăng: amiante ampe: ampère an bom: album a-pác-thai: apartheid áp phích: affiche Áp phê : affaire a ti sô: artichaut – artichoke át: as (cartes) a xít: acide - acid —Ă— ắc qui: accus, accumulateur ăng kết: enquête ăng lê: anglais -english ăng ten: antenne – attenna —B— Bắc : bac

French bánh quy: biscuit ba ga: baggage ban công : balcon – balcony ban xe : Panne ba lê: ballet bazan: basalte bazơ: basse Bá láp : palabre Băng : banc băng (đảng,): bande Ba tê : pâté Ba-toong : bâton bê tông: béton Bẹc giê (chó) : chien de berger bi: bille bi đông: bidon bi da: billard bia: bière Bíp tách : bifsteck Bi-ra-ma : pyjama boa: pourboire bom: bombe

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boongke: bunker Bót : poste bơ: beurre bu gi: bougie bu giông (áo) : blouson bù loong: boulon búp bê: poupée Búp-phê : buffet Buýt : bus Boong : pont —C— cabin: cabine ca bô: capot (d’une voiture) ca cao: cacao ca rô: carreau ca ta lô: catalogue ca vát: cravate cà phê: café cà ri: cari cà rem: crème cà rốt: carotte cao su: caoutchouc cạc: carte các tông (thùng ): carton cạc vẹc (bằng lái xe): carte verte (permis de conduire) cạc vi zít (danh thiếp): carte de visite cát xét: cassette cátxê: cassé Cam-nhông : camion căng tin: cantine compa: compas Com lê: complet (veston) côngtenơ: conteneur

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công tơ: compteur Cóp: copier cô ban: cobalte cốp xe: coffre chất cơ: coeur (cartes) cu li: coolie Ci-nê : cinéma Côn : colt Coóc-sê :corset Cúp : coupe cuarơ: coureur cùi dìa: cuiller —D— da ua: yaourt/ yoghurt —Đ— Ðăng-ten : dentelle Đăng-xê : dancer đầm: dame đề ba: départ đề-can: décal (décalcomanie) điêzen: diesel đi văng: divan Ðít-cua : discours Ðít-lôm : diplôme đóc tơ: docteur đôminô: domino Ðông-ki-sốt : Don Quichotte Ðơ-dèm-cùi-bắp :deuxième classe, soldat de Ðờ-măn : demande đúp bờ: double


—Ê— ê ke: équerre ê kíp: equipe —G— nhà ga: gare ga: gaz ga lăng: Galant ga tô: gateau găng tay: gant Gác dan : gardien ghẻ lở: galeux ghi ta: guitare gi-lê: gilet giăm bông: jambon gôm: gomme Ghi-đông : guidon Gu : goût Gôn : gaule —H— hóc môn: hormone —K— ka- ki: kaki —L— La va bô: lavabo La de : la bíère lăng xê: lancée Lê dương : légionnaire Lò xo : ressort Lô tô : loto lô cốt: blockhaus lôgarít: logarimthe lôgic: logique

Lô-can : local Lô-ca-xông : location len: laine lít: litre cú líp: lift (tennis) líp xe đạp: roue libre kính lúp: loupe —M— ma lanh: malin ma nơ canh: mannequin Ma-cà-bông : vagabond áo măng tô: manteau áo may ô: maillot mét: mètre mít tinh: meeting Moa : moi môtô: moto mô típ: motif mù tạc: moutarde Mùi xoa (khăn) : mouchoir —N— nê ông: néon chất nhép: trèfle (cartes) Nhôm : aluminium Nô-en: Noël nơ: nœud nui: nouilles ny lông: nylon —Ô— ô liu: olive ôxy: oxygène ôtô: automobile (voiture)

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sฦก mi (รกo): chemise shirt 42


—P— pa tanh: patin pê đan: pedale pê đê: pédé pianô: piano pin: pile Phanh : frein phéc-mơ-tuya: fermeture phê thuốc: fait phích: fiche (prise) phin: filtre phóc sết: fourchette phô mát: fromage Phú lít : police —R— rađiô: radio ru băng: ruban Rầy : rail Rốc-kết : rocket —S— sâm banh: champagne séc: chèque séc đấu: set (tennis) sếp: chef Sớp-phơ : chauffeur sơ mi (áo): chemise Sô-cô-la : chocolat sing gum: chewing-gum quần sóoc: short ghế sôfa: sofa sa – lông : salon sút : shoot

—T— Tách : tasse tắc xi: taxi tăng phanh: temps Tem : timbre tùng bê : tombe xe tăng: tank xe tăng đem (xe đạp): tandem (bicyclette) điệu tăng gô: tango típ người: type toalét: toilette Toa : toi Trây-di : treillis tông: ton tông đơ: tondeur / tondeuse Tua : tour tua bin: turbine tuốc nơ vít: tournevis tuýp kem: tube —V— va li: valise va ni: vanille van: valve điệu van: valse rượu vang: vin Vẹc-ni : vernis viđêo: video viôlông: violon vít: vis vô lăng: volant

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—X— xa tanh: satin quỷ Xa tăng: Satan xà bông / xà phồng : savon xà lách: salade quần xà lỏn: sarong Xăng : essence quả xê ri: cerise số xê ri: série xi lanh: cylindre xi líp: slip xi nê: ciné xi măng: ciment xi nhan(đèn): signal xi mi li(vải): simili xích lô: cyclo source

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All words were compiled by: http://lnat1001.blogspot.ca/2010/06/tu-vay-muon-cua-tieng-phap.html

xi phông: siphon xi rô: syrop xi téc: citerne xích lô: cyclo xì căng đan: scandale xiếc: cirque xki: ski vải xoa: soie xơ cua: secours xe xkútơ: scooter xốt: sauce xơ: soeur xu chiêng: soutien-gorge xúp lơ: chou-fleur Xúp-lê : siffler


A few questions were raised about the relationship between the French and Vietnamese. Before considering the possible use of these words, research was conducted to determine whether there were any negative attitudes or tensions between towards the colonization of Vietnam by the French. The best source of research was to ask one who was raised and lived in Vietnam, knowing the culture, its tendencies and attitudes; my father a prime example

questionnaire

Q

How is the relationship between the French and the Vietnamese?

A

The connection between the French and Vietnamese is very good. The French language and French influences still pertains in Vietnam.

Q

Is there any negative tension or hatred against the France because of the colonization?

A

No. There is no hatred against the French. Vietnamese people are still learning about the French culture and language in Vietnam, and there are also many Vietnamese citizens who study abroad in France. The colonization of the French had brought democracy to the people, a major milestone that played a role in how Vietnam is the way it is today. The only thing that the Vietnamese may have hatred against is communism.

thought process As I conducted research of the relationship between the French and Vietnamese, I realized that although there were many positive factors in using these borrowed words as a possible brand name, many didn’t see a strong connection between the too nations. Thee word also then becomes noticeably more French-influenced than Vietnamese-influenced. Furthermore, the idea of colonization may not be seen as a positive event on every individual.

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carp to dragon

narrative

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concept 3 The moral of the story is to be courageous and to believe in yourself in order overcome and conquer any hardships and obstacles that come your way. This story is not only unique, but also compelling. It really describes my brand identity. It is about being having confidence in one’s self, to be courageous and daring, parallel to the idea of not being afraid of be yourself and being different. Although the carp may not have been the most mesmerizing sea creature, such like a dragon, its belief and faith that it could become a dragon was achieved through motivation, determination and belief. Another strong factor about this narrative is the notion of the carp’s metamorphosis into a dragon. In ideology, my concept is similar in the sense that I take tradition, which is not as appreciated as it used to be, and transform it into something new and alluring. The overall visual presence and identity that this narrative portrays is very powerful and positive, a feature that would support the overall identity of my brand.

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courage | perseverance | accomplishment

} carp koi cĂĄ chĂŠp 48


the legend In Vietnamese legends dragons are superior creatures because they bring rain to earth. At one time, so the story goes, Heaven ran out of dragons obliging the Jade Emperor, the Vietnamese god almighty, to make new ones. So he organized a contest among aquatic animals. He gave them three gates as obstacles to jump over, the “three gates of rain.� Those who could leap over all three gates would be granted dragon status. First came the tilapia, a freshwater species. It only cleared the first gate and was rewarded with a black dot on its side. Then allegedly the catfish also passed the first level but hit its head against the second gate, which flattened its shape; the catfish was recompensed with dragon-like whiskers. Next bounded the shrimp. It overcame two gates. Ever since, by the Jade Emperor’s grace, the shrimp looked like of a small dragon. Alas, in the end the shrimp stumbled and was crippled; its organs surged to its head, which is why shrimps now have a curved shape and move backwards, or so the Vietnamese quip. But the carp prevailed. The carp succeeded in hopping over all three gates of rain, and so now it is a dragon.

thought process The narrative of the carp and the dragon serves as great imagery and connotation for the brand. However, again it was difficult to find a word that was suitable for the narrative. Therefore, the story of the carp and the dragon may be used in other aspects of the design process, but will not be put into use for the concept of the overall brand. source Carp to dragon narrative was from: http://carp2dragon.net

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straw hat Conical hat

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concept 4 Through much extraneous exercises, ‘Straw’ has been selected for the name of my brand. Coming as the fundamental ingredient in the creation of a Vietnamese straw hat, a traditional accessory that is used extensively in every day life, ‘Straw’ represents the ideology that the brand is rich in culture and history like the raw straw material. The straw as a raw basic material acts as a metaphor for saying that this brand’s basic structure is built with rich Vietnamese culture and heritage.

straw explorations

Threaded Straw needle & Straw Iron & Straw Knotted Straw Eastern Straw Straw Bounded United Straw Straw Button Straw Knot Iron & Straw Industrialized Straw Straw Circle Straw Links Metal straw straw seams Straw locks industrial straw Straw lôgic Straw Chain Chained Straw embedded Straw Straw Carp 51


indige 52


dragons floral prints lotus patterns enous textiles pattern

To create a graphic pattern that draws from Vietnamese cultures, I first had to learn and understand different types of pattern, prints and textiles that are used in Vietnam. Many different patterns were researched: from the indigenous mountain people of Vietnam to patterns that exist in the city of Saigon. To create, you first have to understand.

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central highlanders

highlanders 54


indigenous Vietnam is known to have one of the largest varieties of ethnic groups in the world. Most are considered to be indigenous. These ethnics groups include The Tay, The Nung, The Tai Kao, Hmong and many more. Each group boasts traditional attire, covered gloriously with unique patterns, textiles and materials.

A Lu woman wearing traditional everyday attire, Binh Lu, Lai Chau Province, Vietnam, 1997. The blouse is decorated with silver or aluminum coins and appliquĂŠd cloth. Photograph by Christine Hemmet.

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Hmong Lenh young women wearing their new outfits on a market day in Muong Khuong, Lao Cai Province, Vietnam, 1996. Their dress is made up of a blouse, a pleated skirt, apron, leggings, and a head cloth. Formerly, the designs were made using appliquĂŠ, but since the 1980s embroidery has been used instead. Photograph by Christine Hemmet.

A married Hani woman with a thick braid in her hair, representing her first child. After giving birth to a second child she will wear two braids. Lao Cai Province, Vietnam, 1995.

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Detail of a Hmong Lenh woman’s blouse decorated with plastic Chinese beads, Muong Khuong, Lao Cai Province, Vietnam, 1999.

Hmong Du women wearing their best indigo outfits for market day. Sa Pa, Lao Cai Province, Vietnam, 1993. Photograph by Dr Christine Hemmet.

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A young Yao Do woman wearing her headdress high on the head, Muong Hum, Lao Cai Province, Vietnam, 1995. Young women in Bat Xat often wear their headdresses this way. Silver decorations are added on market days. Photograph by Christine Hemmet. source

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All photo and captions are from the following source. Hemmet, Christine. Banatre, Julie. “Vietnam.” The Berg Fashion Library. The Berg Fashion Library, Sept. Web. 4 Dec. 2012. <http://www.bergfashionlibrary.com/view/bewdf/BEWDF-v4/EDch4041.xml>.


A Lolo woman wearing traditional clothing, extensively decorated with appliquĂŠd cloth. Meo Vac, Ha Giang Province, Vietnam, 1995. Photograph by Christine Hemmet.

thought process With the extensive researching on patterns and textiles of the indigenous people, I realized that I cannot use any of these textiles for my final pattern design. This is because these indigenous people are not originally from Vietnam. They once immigrated hundreds of years from china. Which I find might not be suitable for my brand because I want to focus on Vietnamese culture and the traditional dresses. Therefore these textiles does not fulfill the requirement for my brand.

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source

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images from Textile museum of Canada


textiles museum For more information on prints and textiles of Vietnam, I visited the Textiles Museum of Canada in hopes of finding new information’s and inspiration on different patterns and textiles. The Textiles Museum of Canada has one of the largest archive of textiles from all over the world.

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patterning and dragon These images were found at the Textiles Museum of Canada’s archives. This gown had once belonged to emperor Trang Phuc of the Nguyen dynasty. What’s interesting about this print is that there is a great use of patterning, detail and colour on the fabric. The Vietnamese dragon is the main embellishment and is each is finely crafted to the highest quality.

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source Images are from textiles museum of Canada’s archive

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Ao dai (long dress) Ao dai’s are the national costume and traditional dress of Vietnam. This dress had started to be modernized in the 1930s by Cat Tuong as known in french le monsure le mur (what does this even mean..). He extended the flab of the dress to touch the floor and made the fit more curved and natural to the human form. During the 1950s, the dress was developed to fit even more closely, like many of the tight form-fitting dresses of the 21th century. In the 1960s the collarless dress was made popular by infamous Madame Ngo Dinh Nhu; former first lady of Vietnam.

source

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Ong, Edric. “The Fashion World of Southeast Asia.” The Berg Fashion Library. The Berg Fashion Library, Sept. Web. 5 Dec. 2012. <http://www.bergfashionlibrary.com/view/bewdf/BEWDF-v4/ EDch4039.xml>.


thought process After doing research on the Vietnamese ao dai, I feel that the patterns are a sole element that cannot be disregarded on any dress. It is the patterns that I want to modernize in order to create something new and unique to my brand. I feel that these patterns represent the Vietnamese people beautifully and the dress itself holds pride for the Vietnamese culture.

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symbolic Looking into the different patterns, textiles, prints and embroidery, it is not only about observing what you see, but also to further understand the symbolism that each symbol holds. Each one contains rich meaning, making ever-so-similar patterns vary in depth of cultural significance.

symbols 66


floral culture symbolism iconic patterns

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symbolic imagery I’ve looked into various symbolisms in Vietnamese culture that seem to consistently play influence in the traditional Vietnamese fashion industry. I wanted to understand the symbolism behind the imagery in patterns to have a better grasp of which symbols best represented my brand. With these symbols comes the possibility of further enriching my brand.

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dragon Dragons are one of the common graphic patterns used in Vietnamese culture. The dragon symbolizes power and nobility. The dragon has been used as a special symbol for emperors of the past, and in present day is still commonly used in clothing, patterns, designs and metaphorical connotations. It is known that dragons with five claws were used to represent emperors, while dragons with four claws were used to represent high dignities of the royal court.

further investigation Dragons are in the sense that it is widely regarded as a powerful creature with much traditional meaning and influence. I wanted to further investigate these mythical creatures and investigate the differences in symbolism it held in various cultures. How can this contrast between cross cultures be used to develop my design?

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eastern dragons Vietnamese Dragons Dragons in the eastern countries are wellrespected and honorable creatures. It is believed in Vietnamese myth that the dragon represented and portrayed with the head of a camel, horns of a deer, eyes of a fish, ears of a buffalo, body and neck of a snake, scales of a carp, claws of an eagle, and feet of a tiger. The dragon does not incarnate the spirit of evil; it is respected, as a creature of wisdom, power and nobility thus having the dragon used as a symbol of an emperor was deemed suitable. Chinese Dragons Chinese dragons are very similar to Vietnamese dragons; their appearance and symbolisms are extremely similar. Chinese dragons have serpentine bodies, four legs, and are usually without wings. They are said to be a composite of various other animals-the body of a snake, the antlers of a deer, the talons of an eagle, the soles of a tiger, the scales of a carp, and the eyes of a demon. It is said that Chinese dragons have 117 scales. The dragon is often seen in ceremonies and parades, symbolizing of wealth and luck. Many stories regarding drawings bringing wealth exists widely in Chinese culture. The vast amount of respect that they had for this creature had brought them fortune and prosperity. source

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dragon images from google.


western dragons Dragons are typically depicted as creatures of evil in Western culture. They can fly and breathe fire, having the ability to destroy and disintegrate in a matter of moments. In many legends, dragons are described as greedy, hoarding gold and treasures. Dragons are often monsters that are usually to be contoured. With the dragon’s representation of greed, lust and violence, it is sometimes seen as the representation of the ‘evil’ side of humanity. source http://www.vietventures.com/Vietnam/symbol_vietnam.asp http://www.draconika.com/

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phoenix The phoenix is a symbol of peace and concord since it is believed that it only appears in peaceful and prosperous times. The phoenix symbolizes virtues and grace thus being the reason why the phoenix is used as a principle emblem for the Queen. It is known that the phoenix also portrays the notion pride and nobility.

floral Floral patterns are often used in Ao dai to show the essences of Vietnamese women. The Ao Dai is a tight fitted dress that shows all the curves which depicts the idea of beauty and elegance of Vietnamese women. The floral prints are there to further support this idea.

source

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http://www.threeland.com/news_laos_2011/news-lotus-vietnamese-national-flower_laos.htm


ochna integerrima One of Vietnam’s popular flowers, highly popular during the Vietnamese Lunar New Year, is often used in floral patterns as well. The flower represents happiness and ideology of a family.

lotus flower The lotus flower is the national flower of Vietnam. The lotus is known as a flower that symbolizes beauty, majesty, grace, fertility, wealth, richness, knowledge and serenity. The lotus flower also has strong symbolism in Buddhism, a religion that is dominate in Vietnam. The lotus flower grows from muddy water but reaches to the top free of dirt, symbolizing a pure spirit and enlightenment. source http://www.vietventures.com/Vietnam/symbol_vietnam.asp

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colour rich palette patterns nation

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colour palette

colour plays an important role in a countries self-representation. Each country has their own representative colours that help distinguish themselves from another. Its add personality and life, ideals of which can be applied to patterns and prints.

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national colour & flag Red and yellow represent the country of Vietnam. The red flag with the yellow star is the current flag of Vietnam. The flag was inspired by the flag of the Soviet Union and embraces the idea of communism. South Vietnam also has its own representative flag, differing in its meaning from the ideologies of communism. Inspired by the trigram, it is a yellow flag with red strips.

national colour & flag In the national flag, the red represents those of red blood and the yellow star represents yellow skin. The five points on the star represent the five types of people: Intellectuals, farmers, workers, businessmen and soldiers.

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emblem of Vietnam The circular emblem is of the north of Vietnam, the red background and yellow star representing the communist party. The crops and the gear represent the harmony of agriculture and industrial labor working together. The emblem of a blue dragon represents the south of Vietnam. The blue is representative of the reign of the Nguyen Dynasty.

source Images are from google images

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