Evelyn's Review

{culinary criticism}

Evelyn's Elevates The American Brunch Experience

Connor Shin

Truly, we live in the darkest timeline. Humanity is still stuck with a pandemic that can’t seem to go away, societal tensions are flaring up in virtually every country, a potential world war is brewing on the horizon, and the Naval Academy has inexplicably claimed the Annapolis Cup for only the eighth time in their entire history. In these times of crisis, it pays to have a local refuge to seek comfort in: a place without any pretentiousness, where you won’t be judged for who you are or what you order. I’m talking about a place like Evelyn’s, where for a glorious hour or so, you can bask in the comforting warmth of small-town Americana without a care in the world. Grab a mug of dark, caffeinated ambrosia, settle down with a warm bowl of buttered grits, and come with me on a gander through this magical little Annapolitan oasis; after my fever dream of a college dining hall review, it’s time for a proverbial palate cleanser, for my sake and for yours. Welcome to paradise.

Normally, I have quite a bit to say about the actual aesthetics of the restaurant I’m reviewing, but there’s honestly not much to say about Evelyn’s decor. It’s as normal as an American restaurant can be: a white coffered ceiling, rustic wooden floors, and a tiled kitchen area walled off with a pseudo-bar area. There are a few pieces of art hung up on the walls from local artists, although these are not nearly as prevalent as they are in places like tsunami or 49 West. There are also some sections of Evelyn’s walls dedicated to chalk-scrawled messages, with the usual examples of daily specials and local farms from which the restaurant draws most of its ingredients from. However, what really caught my eye was on the far wall, with an entire story about how Evelyn’s got its name, as well as the staff’s dedication towards “plant to plate” cooking and forming lasting ties to the citizens of Annapolis. I won’t spoil the details, but let’s just say that Evelyn’s is certainly home to some of the more wholesome restaurateurs out there.

A stated goal of Evelyn’s servers is to be on a firstname basis with all of their customers, which is certainly a respectable goal. In regards to their overall performance and demeanor, I have no complaints whatsoever. In contrast to other restaurants I’ve reviewed, the staff at Evelyn’s seem prepared enough to handle anything, even the hellish conditions of a 12 PM lunch rush. Even while juggling several tables’ worth of orders, my waitress was able to take my table’s order perfectly; all the little requests from my friends, such as an extra egg on an order of avocado toast, arrived in exacting detail. More than any other restaurant I’ve been to so far, Evelyn’s truly makes you feel like a unique part of their family. Just keep in mind that there’s often a wait time for free tables, since this place is pretty small for a diner-style restaurant; this problem has unfortunately seemed to have gotten worse as of late, since the building has gotten rid of Evelyn’s outdoor tables while renovations are going on with the roof.

If you can think of a typical American breakfast food, then Evelyn’s probably has it. From fluffy Belgian waffles topped with refreshing fruits and whipped cream ($11), to a simple two-egg breakfast with the requisite accouterments of home fries, toast, and your choice of breakfast meat ($10), you’re pretty spoiled for choice when it comes to menu options. The entrée portions here are pretty generous across the board, but don’t neglect the smaller dishes either; the soup of the day is always warm and nourishing, and is definitely worth a try. Sometimes, the stars align, and there will be both cream of crab soup and classic Maryland crab soup on offer on the same day. Pull a Hogan’s Bipartisan from Chick and Ruth’s, and ask to have both soups mixed together; you won’t regret your decision as you let the perfect blend of tangy tomato, sherry-infused cream, and plump, sweet crabmeat invigorate your very soul. Let’s say that I’m not only starving, but itching for something special; Do I want an omelet stuffed to the gills with enough cheese, scrapple, onions, and mushrooms to take up an entire plate? Yes, please. If you ever want to know true eggy bliss, you could do worse than building your own omelet to form your own decadent monstrosities ($12). Be warned, though; it’s best to avoid going too far with addons, since anything more than one cheese, one veggie, and one meat choice will result in additional costs. If you aren’t in the mood to customize, though, there’s an entire section of the menu dedicated to some of the best omelets I’ve ever tasted in Annapolis. Make sure you’re really hungry first, before you try to tackle a monster like the three-egg “Feed the Navy” ($15); this mass of steak, sausage, bacon, cheese, and home fries is enough to . Personally, I can never have an Evelyn’s omelet two visits in a row; sometimes it’s better for my health and my sanity to nosh on a simple, refreshing avocado toast with tomato ($10), hipster accusations be damned.

My favorite dish on Evelyn’s menu is an interesting variation on the classic combo of bagels and lox: the so-called

“Smoked Salmon Plate” ($12). Instead of a bagel, the strips of tender, savory fish arrive laying upon a perfectly-toasted slice of bread, along with the typical accompaniments of red onion, tomato, sliced hard-boiled eggs(?) and capers. The toast is strong enough to withstand me piling all the ingredients on top, to form a delicious open-faced sandwich of sorts. I’d be willing to say this is the best breakfast dish I’ve ever had, bereft of any flaws whatsoever… if only I didn’t hate hard-boiled egg yolks with a burning passion. Still, if it’s good enough for me, it’s probably good enough for you, too; if you’re a hard-yolk hater like me, just scoop out the offending articles with a knife or something.

Lest I let Evelyn’s completely off the hook though, I’ve got one particular complaint to vent; mind you, it’s quite minor, but still worth bringing attention to. Reliability is, more or less, a non-issue at this restaurant, with one glaring exception: its grits. As a self-proclaimed “grit connoisseur”, I take pride in my love for this underrated beauty of a porridge; especially when it’s savory, thick, and buttery, just like God intended (no sugar, cinnamon, or other such Yankee nonsense). However, Evelyn’s seems to struggle with the consistency of its grits, and I’ve received overlyrunny or watery bowls of what is basically thin corn soup, almost as much as true, thick, stick-to-your-bones grits. This problem is exacerbated by Evelyn’s usage of what I think is coarse-ground hominy, which is the more traditional and preferable method to smoother blends; the larger grains of corn makes this side dish taste and feel better on the palate, but also makes it much more jarring to eat if the grits aren’t made properly. I’ll stop ragging on Evelyn’s for this fixable issue, now; at the very least, they always make sure to give me two pats of butter, which is always appreciated.

Even if you’re a snooty bon vivant, to whom the mere mention of “Waffle House” brings to mind WorldStar fight videos instead of tasty waffles and hash browns, there’s no way you’ll be able to escape Evelyn’s charm. The first time I ate here, I ordered the most basic breakfast, and mostly focussed on chatting with friends rather than enjoying the food in front of me. It took me three years of coming here to realize just how wrong I was to neglect the tender care put into both the food and the service here, which I cannot state enough is the reason why Evelyn’s is loved by so many Annapolitans and out-of-towners alike. Evelyn’s is one of the more humble places I’ve been to in town; you’ve more likely than not passed by its eye-catching, huge outdoor fruit statues and never once realized that there was a really good restaurant here. Whether you’re coming back to St. John’s for another year or more, or whether you’re about to embark on a journey into the intimidating world of real life, give Evelyn’s a shot at least once during the time you have left here; not many other places can so reliably put a smile on your face.

Evelyn’s

26 Annapolis Street, Annapolis

410-263-4794

www.evelynsannapolis.com

Open for inside dining Monday-Thursday 9:00 AM-2:00 PM, Friday 9:00 AM-3:00 PM, and Saturday-Sunday 8:00 AM-3:00 PM.

Prices: Small dishes $6 to $10, main dishes $8 to $15, beverages $2 to $4. Got opinions or questions? Is there a place I should try out? Email me at cashin@sjc.edu