Gudbrandsdalsleden

Photo: Tibe

St. Olav Ways to Trondheim– Gudbrandsdalsleden Gudbrandsdalsleden is Norway’s longest named overland pilgrim route. It runs for 643 km from Oslo to Trondheim, and pilgrims can choose to follow either the east or west path of Lake Mjøsa to the town of Lillehammer. The two options, known as the Eastern Route and the Western Route, are equally long but have slightly different characteristics. Gudbrandsdalsleden is a fascinating and well-organised walking route.

Gudbrandsdalsleden offers a marked inland walking route through south-central Norway.

Certain parts follow the medieval King’s Road.

Along the way from Oslofjord to Trondheimsfjord, you gradually ascend to 1,314 metres above sea level, before descending again. The terrain is hilly, so you will actually have climbed 12,000 metres by the time you reach your destination. Mount Everest pales by comparison!

Gudbrandsdalsleden has been called Norway’s most well-organised long-distance exploration of our cultural heritage. The route offers a low-risk and worry-free way to get close to nature. You can take it easy

and create a walking routine that gives your mind a chance to roam free.

Reflection comes when the daily grind is left far behind. The simple external framework supports the internal journey towards the ”this is where I am”.

Alternating between footpaths, roads and gravel tracks prompts a greater awareness of the benefits each surface has to offer. Walking on asphalt is perfect when you want to chat with a fellow pilgrim at your side without stumbling, or if a storm is approaching and you need to reach shelter quickly. A narrow woodland path offers variation after many kilometres on hard paving.

From Oslo to Trondheim You start in a metropolis with surrounding suburbs and walk

Photo: Halldis Prestegård

through countryside that changes as you go: fields of wheat and barley, verdant pastures, gnarled and ancient forests, towns, villages, sites of still remembered historic events and, as you reach the crest of an occasional hill, shifting views of tranquil lakes and river valleys and snow-clad mountains on the horizon. You see a landscape shaped by Europe’s last ice age. You follow the banks of Norway’s longest lake, Mjøsa, then over treeless uplands along trails that were present long before the Vikings made their mark on the world. Yet, people are never far away. You can visit beautiful churches from many different eras and pass wooden buildings from the Middle Ages. Beyond Oppdal, when walking through Rennebu, Orkland and Skaun, you once again encounter landscapes

similar to those you passed further south. You will also pass over the Gaula River, that is one of the largest unregulated rivers in Norway, its waters regularly overflowing its banks, but don’t worry – you can always cross by the bridge. From the north bank of the Gaula River, you start on the final stretch of your journey to Norway’s national shrine. In former days, Nidaros Cathedral was called Cor Norvegiae – the heart of Norway.

At the Pilgrim Center Trondheim you will get the certificate ”Olavsbrevet”.

At Lake Mjøsa, you can rest by travelling onboard the oldest steamship in the world, Skibladner. Many people ”swap sides” by taking a one-way trip across the lake between the towns of Gjøvik and Hamar. Skibladner also stops at many other ports between

Eidsvoll and Lillehammer. When the steamship is tucked up in its winter quarters, you can take a boat taxi, row a replica Viking ship (group event), or ask the pilgrim centers at Granavollen or Hamar to help you find this year’s ”special offer”.

You can walk Gudbrandsdalsleden in sections over several years or do the whole trip in one go. If you walk 20 km per day, the entire route takes 32 days. A railway line is never far away, so it is easy to plan hop-on, hop-off stages. You follow well-marked trails and roads, and can spend the night in self-service or staffed accommodation.

Due to these accommodations, you don’t have to bring a tent and meals,

but can pack light – carrying just the food and water you need each day.

If you like to use a tent, that is also possible, and made easy due to the Norwegian rule of ”Right to Roam”.

Some people combine Gudbrandsdalsleden with one of Norway’s other pilgrim routes. For example, you can start at the Swedish border near Halden and take Borgleden to Oslo (an additional 175 km) or you can start at the harbour in Larvik, where the ferry from Denmark docks, and take Tunsbergleden to Oslo (an additional 190 km). Another option is to take Valldalsleden, giving a total distance to Trondheim of 385 km.

Valldalsleden runs for 150 km from

Photo: Jane Dahl Sogn

Sylte on the banks of Nordalsfjord in Sunnmøre on the Norwegian west coast up through the mountains to Dombås/Fokstugu, where it joins the north-south route to Trondheim.

Oslo is the endpoint for both Borgleden and Tunsbergleden.

Norway’s capital is itself a place of pilgrimage for those wishing to pay homage to its patron saint, St. Hallvard. In Oslo, the starting point for Gudbrandsdalsleden (both the Eastern and Western routes) is at the milestone by the ruins of St. Hallvard’s Cathedral. Here you will also find the Bishop’s office, where pilgrims on Gudbrandsdalsleden receive the first stamp in their pilgrim pass.

Medieval pilgrims and pilgrims today

For the most part, Gudbrandsdalsleden follows the same route as the medieval pilgrims chose. But unlike the medieval pilgrims, today’s pilgrims can feel completely safe as they head north. You will alternate between ancient footpaths and modern, paved roads. You will pass protected nature reserves, stroll through areas of primeval forest and walk sturdy, equipped with boots and high-tech weatherproof clothing to cross the high mountain plateau. Civilization is easily accessible to provide support in an event of emergency. Yet, every day, you will see traces of those who have walked this path before you in history. We walk together – but in different times.

Walking along Gudbrandsdalsleden lets you experience south-central

Norway’s many different types of landscapes. The trail have both marked and been marked by the people who has walked it. References to Norway’s history can be found everywhere. You pass places where Norse communities held their legal and administrative assemblies (Thing) and locations depicted in Norwegian literature – both today’s Mytting and yesterday’s Undset, Ibsen, Bjørnson, Vinje and Krokann.

As you amble slowly between villages, protected areas and national parks, you see that modern local communities are rooted in the sum of events from many geological epochs.

The last ice age, 10,000 years ago, has both facilitated and constrained the inhabitants’ livelihoods here. People have lived in this part of Norway since long before the first pilgrims made the arduous journey to Nidaros. The landscape often changes suddenly from rich arable and pastureland to areas where hunting, fishing and forestry have been the dominant way of life.

The steep hill that you will laboriously climb once in a lifetime, was in former days used daily by hunters and shepherds in order to secure enough food to survive the winter.

The French Route towards Santiago de Compostela hosts the slow, the adventurous, the long-legged, the wonderers, the seekers, the fit and the not so fit. Many use the trail to challenge themselves in one way or another. Gudbrandsdalsleden provides much the same infrastructure to enable you to challenge yourself.

Mini ”gapahuk” Photo: Anna Runesson

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Domkirk eodden Photo: DNK Allmannsrøysa. estegård Photo: Halldis Pr

You can choose day stages of varying lengths. You have easy access to the train and busses. You are constantly passing small villages where you can find food and medicines, send unnecessary baggage home, or buy new equipment.

You can choose to walk ”quietly”, yet still get hold of people if you should need help or simply someone to talk to.

From Gudbrandsdalsleden you can sometimes see animal tracks: elk, deer, wild reindeer, beavers, foxes or badgers.

If you are lucky, you may catch a glimpse of them too. Some parts of the countryside are home to wolverines, lynx, wolves and bears, though they stay well away from the marked trail. Norway’s only population of muskox inhabit the vast Dovrefjell plateau, but the flock does not graze on the side of the valley where pilgrims walk.

About the pilgrim centers

Søsterkirkene.

Photo: Jane Dahl Sogn

Nidarosdomen. nter Hamar Photo: Pilgrim Ce

As a pilgrim, you can seek specialist support from the managers of the six pilgrim centers. They are your best advisers along with their teams of volunteer helpers. There, you can obtain up-todate information about path marking, physical obstacles, weather conditions, other walkers and annual peculiarities.

They can help you tailor your plans to your personal needs. Their help can make your walk better than you could have managed on your own. The pilgrim centers can suggest good places to sleep, recommended detours or local events.

Many churches along the route are open during the summer. Usually, you will find a pilgrim stamp for your pilgrim pass in a box outside the church

and a pilgrim bench where you can rest. If the church is closed, you can contact the parish office in advance and arrange for them to open. The pilgrim centers can put you in touch with the right people, or you can find the contact information on the website. The digital map at stolavways.com shows the route, places to stay and Points of Interest. With the filter you can look for different categories when planning you walk. The pilgrim centers update the information on the digital maps every season and arrange for an updated list of the accommodations. These lists are also possible to download via the webpage.

All the pilgrim centers sell pilgrim passes and guidebooks. The Pilgrim Center Oslo has a particularly extensive selection of information material in multiple languages, with the emphasis on Norwegian, English, German and Dutch.

Stamps for your pilgrim pass are found at the hostels, hotels, at the churches and the pilgrim centers.

When you stop for the night, it is important to show your pilgrim pass to secure the correct discount for your stay. Each pilgrim center can provide guidance on the discounts for luggage transportation. Here, too, the pilgrim pass is used as proof of eligibility.

The pilgrim centers in Hamar and Hundorp (Dale-Gudbrand) also function as pilgrim hostels. At the pilgrim centers in Oslo, Hamar and Dovrefjell, pilgrims can obtain a ”spiritual recharge”. Eysteinkyrkja (Eystein Church) is the Pilgrim

Center Dovrefjell’s summer base. It is an open roadside church, staffed by local volunteers during the day and by the center itself in the afternoon and evening. At the Pilgrim Center Oslo you can receive a personal blessing.

With the blessing you will be offered a blessing bracelet to remind you of the prayer throughout your journey.

Alternative accommodations

Some hostels offer a ”package deal”, where you can choose between a simple, moderate or luxurious standard for both bed and food.

At the Pilgrim Center Oslo and the hostel at the Eidsvoll Old Vicarage, you can borrow a hammock for free that you can use as you make your way along the Eastern Route through the Stangeskogene forest. This can be handed in either at Espa hostel or Pilgrim Center Hamar. Similarly, you can borrow a hammock in Oslo and use it as you travel the Western Route across the Krokskogen forest and through Ringerike, then hand it back when you reach the Pilgrim Center Granavollen.

Seasonal choices and trends

The pilgrim season on Gudbrandsdalsleden is from June to September.

Many pilgrims try to reach Nidaros Cathedral for St. Olav’s Day on 29 July. Pilgrims who arrive during the week of St. Olav Festival will experience a fascinating and diverse cultural

event. However, the city has few available beds during this period. Do you want your arrival to be accompanied by festive crowds or quiet reflection?

The choice is yours.

Due to both the annual snow melt, and to avoid disturbing the wild reindeer during their calving period, you are advised not to walk from Kongsvoll via Vårstigen and Vinstradalen earlier than June 10. The Dovrefjell Pilgrim Center can provide information on alternative routes.

In July, the Oslo to Trondheim route enjoys 19 hours of daylight. This provides a much longer daily walking period than in Southern Europe, so you can take extensive breaks throughout the day.

How to Prepare

Since Gudbrandsdalsleden is the longest pilgrim route in Norway, your body may feel the need for rest and recuperation along the journey. Your head and feet may not always be in complete sync. Ask yourself if this a day for walking or for resting? Is your backpack too heavy for the terrain up ahead? Do you want to have a go anyway? In the wilderness, the consequences of ”having a go” are much greater than when you are walking a pilgrim path. Gudbrandsdalsleden is a safe trail. In the event of a problem a solution is generally to be found – take it slower, take longer breaks or change your overnight reservation.

In small places, pilgrims must be prepared for supermarkets to be closed on Sundays and for a limited choice

of places to eat. Many hostels serve food or sell freeze dried/dehydrated ready-meals. Take a packed lunch if you are uncertain what the day will bring. Food is more expensive at petrol stations and convenience stores than in ordinary supermarkets, but they are good to have in a pinch. Summer-open museums and churches may also serve refreshments. In case of emergency, you might even ask the next inhabitant you see whether you could buy a couple of sandwiches from them?

You should fill up on drinking water where you spend the night, at churches, at museums, or other places along the route. It is possible to drink water from the streams but be careful. Agriculture and grazing animals may be found further up the stream and rodent-borne pathogens are also sporadically transmitted via water. If need be, you could buy a filter for your water bottle at a sports equipment store along the route.

Walkers on Gudbrandsdalsleden generally report good marking and maintenance of the trail. Employees and volunteers from the pilgrim centers keep an eye on this, and they also have plenty of knowledge to share.

They are always keen to stop for a chat with pilgrims, so don’t hesitate to seize the opportunity when it arises.

It will be rewarding for both you and for them.

Many of the hostels along Gudbrandsdalsleden are smaller entities. It is therefore advised to reserve a bed at least 1-3 days beforehand.

Photo: Anna Runesson

If your chosen hostel proves to be full, you could then adjust your itinerary.

If you have to walk a shorter distance than you have planned for, you can use your untapped energy to explore local cultural heritage sites, give your hosts a helping hand, reflect over the journey so far – or simply sit back and relax.

Pilgrims share their personal experiences through books, videos or other media. Here, you can pick up many practical tips, but check whether they match your needs before you copy their methods. Your journey will always be unique. They walked in rain with a heavy backpack; you are travelling light in bright sunshine. They walked in spring; you are travelling in the autumn. They walked alone; you are part of a group. They had flat feet; you have an old knee injury. They were timing their arrival in Trondheim to coincide with the St. Olav Festival; you are travelling out of season. They had purchased brand-new equipment; you have tried and trusted gear in your backpack.

At the Facebook group ”Hiking along Gudbrandsdalsleden” you can post pictures and share stories. This is also the site where the pilgrim centers post updated information about changes of the trail or difficult weather conditions.

As a pilgrim, you take care of yourself. Don’t carry more than you have to. Remember to take breaks.

Remember to stay hydrated. If you are planning to walk a long distance, work up to it slowly – don’t start off with extra-long day stages. Check the

day’s weather forecast at yr.no and adjust your journey. Give yourself small treats now and then. Be your own best friend! The day you stopped a bit short and took the opportunity to explore the surroundings could be the day you remember the most. Many people say the best things happened precisely when they had no plans or expectations, but just walked along with an open mind. It is a good idea to tailor your plans to what you want to achieve with your journey but be open to changing your mind along the way.

Conclusion

So, you finally got back home. Do you have any thoughts and reflections on your experience after your pilgrim walk that you like to share? Please, send them to one of the pilgrim centers. Gudbrandsdalsleden is a trail that we care for together and all input are appreciated.

If you enjoyed Gudbrandsdalsleden, please have a look at the other pilgrim paths in Norway. There are nine trails altogether to explore.

God tur!

(Norwegian for Bon Camino!)

Photo: Adobe Stock

The St. Olav Ways are a network of pilgrim paths that all lead to Nidaros Cathedral in Trondheim.

The paths go through spectacular nature, charming villages and lively towns.

There is a big variety of accommodations along the way, including old traditional houses - and you can experience local food traditions, visit churches and discover historical places along the way.

At stolavways.com you can plan your trip using our interactive map with an overview of paths, accommodations and other points of interest.

How far you want to walk is up to you. Some walk for a few days, others want to walk for weeks. The main season for a pilgrimage in Norway is from June to September. The season is shorter in mountain areas due to snow and snow melting.

Website St. Olav Ways

Walk the St. Olav Ways in Norway

TRONDHEIM (NIDAROS)

SUNDSVALL/ SELÅNGER

V

GUDBRANDSDALSLEDEN

NORWAY

SWEDEN

FINLAND

VADSTENA

DENMARK HÆRVEJEN

COPENHAGEN

Information

Books in English

Books in German

Gudbrandsdalsleden: The St. Olav Way from Oslo to Trondheim. Cykling Guide,

by Gea van Veen, 2024.

Olav der Heilige, by Olav Müller, 2012.

Gudbrandsdalsleden: The St.Olav Way from Oslo to Trondheim. Walking Guide, by Ria Warmerdam, 2024.

Saint Olav: King of Norway, by Olav Müller, 2011.

Norwegen: Olavsweg. West- und Ostroute von Oslo nach Trondheim, by Michael Hennemann, OutdoorHandbuch 369, 2024.

Online information www.stolavways.com

The Facebook group ”Hiking along Gudbrandsdalsleden”

The brochure is an initative by Pilgrim Center Oslo.

Print: DG Trykk 2024 | Text: Kristin Øveraas, transl. from the norwegian magazine Pilegrim i dag | Design: stiernform.se