Hokkaido 2014

MY TRAVEL BLOG

HOKKAIDO WINTER HOLIDAY 8-23 FEB 2014

Disaster struck when we landed in Haneda Airport TOKYO ... snow !

As much as 27 centimetres of snow was recorded in Tokyo by late Saturday, the heaviest fall in the capital for 45 years, according to meteorologists.

Japanese airline companies have cancelled 742 flights ( including our flight JL 11 03 ) on Saturday due to heavy snow, NHK said, adding that more cancellations are expected on Sunday.

Press footage showed hundreds of passengers ( we were there among the crowd ) queuing for reimbursement or a change of flights at Tokyo's Haneda airport with departure boards indicating the cancellation of many flights.

We queued for hours, only to be told that the earliest available flight was tomorrow evening.

As there were no vacancies in hotels ( like this capsule hotel ) in or close to Haneda Airport, we had no choice but to head for Tokyo city centre....

Shinagawa Prince Hotel

It was early evening, by the time we checked in.

down again …. this time to MacDonald’s.

Exhausted from standing in queue for hours, I had just enough time to grab a takeaway from a nearby 7-11 , before hitting the sack … only to wake up hungry at 3 am and having to go

The mood improved with the weather when I awoke the next morning.

The reason why we chose this hotel was because of the location.

SHINAGAWA is a major rail hub … convenient access to the Airport and to get around Tokyo.

For our unplanned Tokyo stay, we took the subway to SHIBUYA.

We spent the day in SHIBUYA, a shopping ( Tokyu Hands & Loft ) and eating ( Kujiraya's whale & Matsukawa’s unagi ) district, popular with lots of young Tokyoites.

Of course, we first had to stop to say hello to top dog ' Hachiko '.

Why I'm drawn to Shibuya ...

Back to Prince hotel, after lunch, we took the elevator up to the 39th floor. " Top of Shinagawa Lounge & Bar " for a beer and a panoramic view of TOKYO.

Soon it was time to take the Tokyo Metro to Haneda Airport.

Finally we could be on our way to ASAHIKAWA

Due to the Tokyo snow storm, we arrived in Asahikawa on Monday evening instead of Sunday morning.

We also had to forgo our night in LA VISTA DAISETSUZAN, a highlight in our trip that we have paid for in advance.

Having no alternative, we checked into HOTEL PACO, our choice for the next 2 nights in ASAHIKAWA. Why PACO ?

Unusual for a city hotel, it has an indoor spa and ...

the location is convenient.

Close to Hotel Paco is the Kaimono Koen (shopping park).

During the Winter Festival, the Ice Sculpture Competition took place here and at night, the sculptures were lit-up.

Our photographs improve with a more professional photographer joining our holiday.

Breakfast in Hotel Paco is at Restaurant Tomato on the 1 4th floor, so we could get a good view of Asahikawa, while enjoying our buffet breakfast.

As the 'Shot Bar' is also on the same floor, I should come up again later, for a night view of Asahikawa.

However, we had to make up for lost time.

To explore ASAHIKAWA, we hired a car from Nippon Rent-A-Car, with 4WD, Snow Tyre and Multilingual GPS. Going to be a new experience driving in snow !

First Stop : ASAHIYAMA ZOO

Let's Go !

Asahiyama is the northernmost and has become the second most popular zoo in Japan, because of her unique interactive, animal viewing facilities.

Poor monkeys so cold, yet no Onsen

For us, the big attraction was her Arctic immigrants.

Viewing Polar animals up close.

The underwater glass tunnel lets visitors observe the birds as they fly through the water.

As time was limited, me moved on.

its shoyu (soya sauce) based broths.

We went to Asahikawa Ramen Village for lunch.

Here eight famous ramen restaurants from Asahikawa have opened small branch stores.

Whereas Sapporo is known for its miso based broth and Hakodate for its salt based broth, Asahikawa is known for

We also ordered gyoza ( Japanese style dumpling ) done panfried here.

The ponzu dipping sauce compliments the dish Next ... time to stock up Sake, so we headed to Otokoyama sake brewery.

We skipped the museum part and headed straight for the tasting counter.

After making our sake selection and purchase, we joined the queue of locals who brought empty jerry cans (large & plentiful) to collect free spring water (Patience required).

Back at the hotel, I had less than one 'Happy Hour' to enjoy the night view of Asahikawa. ( Must catch the Fireworks )

It was the 55th Asahikawa Winter Festival and activities were centered in Tokiwa Park.

Every year there is a different massive snow sculpture, with a stage for performances.

We made sure we were on time ...

... to catch the Fireworks Finale. ( The last day of the 6 - 11 Feb Festival )

After the fireworks, there were other ice scultures to see and many food & drink stalls in the park.

However, we were hungry and decided to head back for dinner in yesterday's yummy Japanese restaurant.

Though we lost our stay in LA VISTA, we managed to catch up and there was still another morning.

As the transfer to SOUNKYO was only at 2.30 in the afternoon, we had time to go back to Tokiwa Park to see what happened after the Winter Festival closed.

Unsurprisingly, the efficient Japanese have commenced with the demolishing works.

Seeing and touching enough sculptures, we wanted to go to an Izakaya (Japanese tapas style restaurant ).

Unfortunately, the ones we found do not open for lunch.

However, we managed to find this stylish restaurant which offered bento set lunches at reasonable prices (other items in the menu were expensive).

We caught the shuttle to SOUNKYO and after checking into our Japanese style room, had just enough time for a quick soak in the Onsen before dinner.

From the photos, you could see what I focused on.

It was the start of many rounds of onsen breakfast and dinner buffets, guaranteed to have adverse effects on my waist line.

SOUNKYO's main attraction in winter is the "Sounkyo Hyobaku Matsuri".

The festival features large, multistory buildings and structures made of ice and snow along the Ishikari River.

In the evening, everything is illuminated with colorful lights and there is a nightly fireworks display.

Inside the Ice Castle

We enjoyed the psychedelically lit up festival and negotiated slippery ice staircases without getting our butts bruised.

Time to head back to our hotel and soak in the hot spring.

It took around 1 hr 30 minutes by coach from ASAHIKAWA to SOUNKYO and it would take twice that time to travel to SAPPORO. After our buffet breakfast, we caught the SAPPORO shuttle at 1 0 am.

However, we would not be staying in SAPPORO yet.

It was just a transit and lunch break, before moving on to OTARU.

OTARU is 38 km & 30 mins away

OTARU After checking into Authent Hotel, we walked to the Otaru Canal for the " OTARU SNOW LIGHT PATH FESTIVAL ".

The two main festival areas are Temiyasen Kaijo and Unga Kaijo, but as there was still daylight when we passed the old Temiyasen railway line, we continued walking to the Otaru Canal (Otaru Unga) Much more attractive to view the " Snow Light Path ", with illumination.... great photo opportunities too !

Here is a beautiful shot of the restored warehouses, gas lamps along the canal and small candle lit buoys floating on the canal.

There was a row of small illuminated snow statues all along the path beside the Otaru Canal.

It was cold and snowing.... LOVELY !!!

We headed for the old Temiya railway line.

Snowing along the tracks of the abolished Temiyasen railway line

Otaru is famous for seafoods & sushi and this is a popular joint ... as such, we had to wait for a table.

Stomach stuffed, we went for a short walk to the canal area, before retiring.

As in past trips, we took a taxi to the Clock Tower at the end of Sakaimachi Street.

This is OTARU shopping district with many souvenir shops and sidewalk cafes selling seafood.

The stand out gifts to purchase are Music Boxes and Glassware.

Goods displayed are very Venetian, probably influenced by Murano craftsmanship.

However, I was more interested in the food on offer here.

Frankly, the street grilled seafood was only so so ... not good value.

Better to munch free samples offered by the many confectioneries there.

I did buy back some ( after sampling ) ... and also some dried cuttlefish.

We took the train to SAPPORO in the afternoon and checked into Hotel Keihan.

Spa facilities seem to influence our choice of hotels in this trip.

Nevertheless, as we have not experienced hot spring facilities in previous trips to SAPPORO and the hotel is also close to Sapporo Station, with multiple shopping centres, KEIHAN was a wise selection.

A major highlight of this trip for me was going for the "Genghis Khan" BBQ lamb buffet at the SAPPORO BEER GARDEN. Must go for the "All you can eat and drink" option.

Rare lamb, frozen lamb, vegetables, Draft beer, Stout, Half & Half ... All good.

Take a break and forget about dieting.

Sapporo Station is a major shopping and dining area with the Paseo, Apia and ESTA Malls and both Daimaru & Tokyu department stores.

We spent practically the whole day there, diverting only a short while for a little sightseeing and lunch.

Visited the " Former Hokkaido Government Office Building " and lunched at the Sapporo TV Tower in Odori Park.

I went back to Sapporo Station to go up the 38 storey JR Tower, the tallest building in Hokkaido.

I prefer the free view at the taller Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building, but was most impressed with the jaw-dropping loo ... made the 700 yen ticket to go up worthwhile.

After a few refills from my whisky decanter, I had to leave to meet up with the rest for dinner.

We went to Sapporo Ramen Alley in Susukino for dinner.

With 1 7 shops in the new and old alley, decision can be overwhelming.

We chose one that was popular and served Ramen with scallops.

Think it was called ' HIGUMA ' ...

It was a good decision.

With the morning free, I tried finding nearby attractions to visit.

The Sapporo Snow Festival was over and I've covered Odori Park, TV & Clock Tower, University Of Hokkaido & her Botanical Garden.

I took the subway from Sapporo Station to Nakajima koen and walked to the next station 'Horohira bashi' via the park.

It was cold, -2 degrees.

Saw a man skiing in the park ... looked fun !

I decided on Nakajima Park.

After the park, I took a slow walk back via Odori Park.

We had to be at Sapporo Station to catch the 1 .30 pm Onsen bus to YUMOTO MEISUITEI.

It was a 2 hours bus ride to the Kitayuzawa Onsen area.

There is a free shuttle to enjoy the onsen at their sister hotel (Dai-Ni), but as Meisui-Tei claims to have the largest Open-air bath in Japan, this facility is something we never made use of (was here in 2011 also).

We had enough time before dinner to have an onsen visit and for some of the sake we bought in Asahikawa.

This was the second "All-You-Can-Eat Buffet" for us to indulge in.

Better to take a small sampling of their wide selection first .... after that, concentrate on what's best.

Sapporo and Yebisu beers, which are brewed in Hokkaido, complimented the meal.

We left after breakfast for Sapporo, where we had lunch and caught the afternoon coach to our next destination ... JOZANKEI. However, at Sapporo Station, part of our group ( including the photographer ),had to fly back home to Singapore.

Only 26 km or one hour by bus from Sapporo, JOZANKEI ONSEN is a popular side trip for Sapporo residents and tourists.

Like our stay in Yumoto Meisuitei, JOZANKEI is also located inside Shikotsu-Toya National Park.

Perhaps being located between the high cliffs of the Toyohira River, the snowfall in Jozankei seem to be perpetually heavy.

The non stop snowfall was ideal weather for soaking in the outdoor onsen.

Nice onsen, nice hotel, nice room and a private dining room for a ...

Kaiseki multi-course Japanese dinner ... " KANPAI !!! " .

Snowing in the onsen and when I went to bed.

Still snowing when I woke up the next day.

JOZANKEI lived up to her reputation.

As usual, the coach left after breakfast for Sapporo. However, this would be the last time back to Sapporo, for this trip.

There was time for a quick lunch, before catching the bus to NOBORIBETSU. While waiting for the transport, I noticed these signs.

Wah Lao !

Have to pay to park your bicycle in Sapporo !!!

Like our stay in Meisui-tei & Jozankei, NOBORIBETSU is also part of the ShikotsuToya National Park.

Nice place NOBORIBETSU. It was my 4th visit here and I checked into a different hotel again.

Met this Oni devil outside our hotel.

Oni are creatures from Japanese folklore, variously called demons, devils, ogres or trolls. They are popular characters in Japanese art, literature and theatre.

In NOBORIBETSU, lots of "Haw Par Villa" type statues could be found... tomorrow.

Time to check in & check out the onsen.

Nice Hot Spring ... even had a half frozen waterfall.

Unfortunately, no cameras allowed.

We got a pleasant surprise during dinner.

A "MaguroGiri" ceremony (Cutting a whole TUNA for Sashimi)

Giant wild tuna is expensive, so we were surprised ... especially when the ceremony was repeated the next evening. ( May not be a Pacific bluefin tuna, but tasted good & fresh anyway ).

Jigokudani or "Hell Valley" is a main source of Noboribetsu's hot spring waters.

There are hot steam vents, sulfurous streams and other volcanic activity.

Even in the town of Noboribetsu Onsen, there is a Geyser.

Hence, the sulphur ordor accompanied us on our walk.

I had to carefully approach the Tessen Pond due to the slippery footpath.

Only a short walk to this 80 degC iron hot spring, but I saw a fellow tourist fall.

Back safely, I guess I deserved a sake break.

It was close to noon and we have worked off our breakfast.

Fortunately, we knew of a good ramen joint.

The standard of ramen & gyoza here is high.

However the restaurant is small and gets crowded fast.

Back at the hotel, another Tuna awaited us ... more Sashimi for dinner.

At this stage, both my stomach and face had become rounder ... vivible in the photographs.

Unfortunately, winter offers little opportunity to exercise or walk off the fat ( don't know how to ski ).

It's 200 km from NOBORIBETSU to HAKODATE, so we took the train.

Yes, my face do look rounded in this selfie, taken on the train.

HAKODATE was our final destination and we stayed in the Yunokawa Onsen district.

Arriving too early to check in, we went for lunch and then to the Botanical Garden to view Hot-Tubbing Snow Monkeys.

We watched the antics of the Japanese Snow Monkeys keeping warm in wintertime. " Do they soak as often in the hot spring in Summer ? " Not a natural onsen like in Nagano, but convenient to watch these Macaques.

After seeing soaking monkeys, we headed back so we could do some soaking ourselves.

Our room in the hotel was small, but we had a private onsen with a view.

The hotel's public bath was equally impressive... especially men's bath.

Unfortunately, the ladies, for privacy reasons, could not get such an 'open' view. With such excellent facilities, we soaked till dinner time.

The buffet dinner was equally impressive, with sushi made and beef cooked to order.

The marbling on the steak showed a high quality grade.

Good value lunch here.

We revisited the Morning Market and the Bay area, but skipped the historical Motomachi district and Mount Hakodate, which we covered in our previous trip.

Instead we went to the 1 07 meter Goryokaku Tower observation platform.

We stayed for the night views, by which time it was too late to visit the star-shaped fort.

Time to head back.

On the final day, we revisited GORYOKAKU to explore the fort and ICHIMONJI for another ramen meal...

Then to HAKODATE airport for our flight