SSEF News with a Focus on Antique Gems and Jewellery (2024)

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Presentation by PD Dr. Michael S. Krzemnicki

In historic Eastern cultures (e.g. Mughal Empire), gems were often drilled or half-drilled to fix them with metal wires as a pendant on jewellery.

Later, some of these gems have been recut and re-used in new designs and styles.

Historic multi-gem necklace recently investigated at SSEF.

All gems are suspended (double half-drill) and mostly faceted but with strong wear marks!

Re-use of antique Gems

Some of the faceted gems show half-drilled holes very close (and fragile) near the surface. It is assumed that these stones were reshaped and faceted at a later (but historic) age than the original drilling.

| Re-use of Sri Lankan Sapphire

Relics of large drill-hole in a Sri Lankan sapphire. We assume that this stone was actually re-used and faceted from an even older jewellery (fixed through drillholes) when set into this brooch in the 1860ies.

| ‘Classic’ Sri Lankan Pink Sapphire

Relics (drill-holes) from former setting.

What looks like a classic 19th century brooch with old cut diamonds…

| Emerald-coloured Glass

…turns out to be green flint glass. The green colour is from traces of chromium.

Intriguingly, the green glass contains many eye-visible “spiky” inclusions, thus well mimicking a Colombian emerald.

| Green painted Topaz to imitate Emerald

Raman spectrum of topaz

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Bracelet with pink sapphires painted orange on backside and in closed-back setting. To intensify colour and slightly shift it to ‘ruby’.

…dense mottled intergrowth of zoisite (complex Ca-Al-silicate) and plagioclase. Thus not jade!

Zoisite, first discovered in 1794 at Saualpe in Austria, it was soon after named after Sigmund Zois Freiherr von Edelstein (sic!) (1747-1819), nobleman and natural scientist.

Plagioclase, solid-solution (Na to Ca-Al-silicates) wihin the feldspar group. Its name comes from ancient Greek πλάγιος (plágios) 'oblique', and κλάσις (klásis) 'fracture’, in reference to its two cleavage angles. (afterWikipedia)

ct

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Exceptional Spinel: From rough to cut

Cr-photoluminescence emission

Absorption spectrum, purple colour mainly due to Feabsorption.

Forsterite (Mg2SiO4) inclusion in spinel

| The Making of….

Photos and clip © A. Henn, except initial and final stages (by SSEF)

Cobalt spinel of 1.0 ct with a deep but vivid cobalt blue colour as a result of very high cobalt concentration (about 2100 ppm Co).

Cobalt spinel often contains about 40-200 ppm of cobalt. At this level, cobalt cannot be detected with chemical EDXRF analyses.

Recently we analysed a Cospinel with very high cobalt concentration (about 2100 ppm). Consequently, the cobalt is even visible in the EDXRF spectrum as a distinct shoulder besides the Fe-Kb peak.

| Diamond : from Rough to Cut

SSEF GemTrackTM for a diamond

| Diamond : from Rough to Cut

Based on microscopic observations and numerous spectroscopic criteria it was possible to confirm that the faceted pear-shaped diamond of 1.06 ct is the same as the rough diamond of 4.93 ct analysed by SSEF before cutting.

| Diamond Imitation

Synthetic moissanite of 1.8 ct with engraved girdle.

Characteristic doubling effect makes identification easy!

| Exceptional Pearls

| ‘Pearl’ Pendant made of two assembled Blisters

Interestingly, this ‘pearl’ pendant proved to be an assembled item made of two shell blisters.

| Exceptional Non-Nacreous Pearls

Conch
Lion Paw Scallop
Horse Conch
Melo

Exceptional coral strand with 67 coral beads (up to 26.75 mm) of perfectly matching colour and quality. Their subtle but attractive pink colour is poetically also referred to as ‘angelskincolour’ (boke). Such corals are commonly attributed to Pleurocoralliumelatius .

DNA testing on three randomly selected coral beads of this necklace revealed, that they belong to a scientifically so-far undescribed

Pleurocoralliumspecies .

| Pink Sapphires from Mozambique

Recently, we have seen occasionally pink sapphires from Montepuez, Mozambique.

| Fancy Sapphire from Umba valley, Tanzania

| Dating of Greenland Rubies

Three Greenland rubies of 2.39, 3.04 and 1.22 ct. Age dating was successful on a tiny zircon inclusion on the ruby of 1.22 ct (right).

| Dating of Greenland Rubies

Trace element signature of the investigated Greenland rubies is different to other rubies from ultramafic rocks.

Aappaluttoq ruby deposit in WGreenland.

Map: Krebs et al. 2019; Photo: Greenland Ruby A/S.

| Dating of Greenland Rubies

All three Greenland rubies were heated at high temperature and with significant glassy residues in healed fissures and cavities!

| Dating of Greenland Rubies

We calculated an age of 2.7 billion years for the zircon inclusion! This is well in accordance with literature describing the rubies from Greenland as the oldest ones known on Earth (e.g. Krebs et al. 2019)

Zircon (60 x 15 µm) before ablation after ablation

| Heat Treatment of Gemstones

“Thepracticeistherefore,to roastthereddish[stones]so that the mixed colours are madetodisappear…Aruby stonehavingbeenroastedisreexamined, and,incaseitdoes notgainclarity,itisre-heated.

Al-Biruni (AD 973–1048)

• In most cases, heat treatment results in a change/shift of colour.

• The lower the heating temperature the more challenging is its detection! approx.temperaturerangesasbygemmologicalliterature

| ‘Low-Temperature’ Heat Treatment of Corundum

Heat treatment at low temperatures (about 700 – 1200 °C) is mostly applied to remove bluish zones and slightly shift purplish sapphires to a pink colour. before after 2h heating (oxidizing) at 1000 °C

Unheated ruby from Mozambique.

| ‘Low-Temperature’ Heat Treatment of Corundum

Detection of any heat treatment is commonly relied on a combination of ‘classic’ microscopy, UV reaction, and spectroscopic analyses (Infrared- and Raman spectroscopy).

Very useful approach:

Phase transformations of hydroxides

Diaspore (α-AlOOH) and Goethite (α-FeOOH)

2 diaspore 1 corundum + water about 500 °C

2 AlOOH Al2O3 + H2O

2 FeOOH Fe2O3 + H2O 2 goethite 1 hematite + water about 350 °C

These are so-called dehydration reactions which occur when heating up these hydroxides (diaspore, goethite).

| Heating Experiment: Diaspore to Corundum

dotted vertical lines: main diaspore peaks

Sample 120993_6

Diaspore in Burmese ruby (Mogok)

Phase transformation

Diaspore in ruby (image width 2mm). before after dehydration

| Heating Experiment: Goethite to Hematite

dotted vertical lines: main goethite peaks

Sample 85933_C3

Goethite in Mozambique ruby

Phase transformation

Goethite in fissure in ruby

from Sotheby’s International

Estrela de Fura 55.22 ct

Diaspore detected in fluid inclusion !

Sold at Sotheby’s auction in June 2023 for record $34.8 million.

in

ref

Diaspore
Diaspore
Estrela de Fura ruby
Corundum ref

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