Spell Magazine Spring Edition 2024

Meet the R&B princess taking over TikTok Essosa

SCOOP

Pre order now at thicksandbones.co.uk

BEHIND THE BRAND

THICKS & BONES

Swapping Charlotte Tilbury billboard campaigns for the cut throat world of business, model and now entrepreneur, Tosin Bodija, launches her first swimwear collection celebrating body confidence.

Starting a swimsuit fashion label with limited funds and a case of imposter syndrome

“Thicks and Bones isn’t just about looking good in a stunning piece of fabric. It’s about feeling good. I want to remind women of how perfectly created we are. Everyday we're surrounded by societal pressures, so feeling comfortable enough to express yourself as freely as you want – even in clothing that would usually make you feel most selfconscious is the goal.

“The name has a bit of a double meaning. Probably most obvious, is the saying “sticks and stones may break my bones but words will never hurt me” which it derives from, but with a little play on words to give shine to shapes and sizes at different ends of the spectrum i.e “Thicks” which represents curvier people and “Bones” for slimmer people. It’s also a way of reminding people to feel confident no matter their shape or size, regardless of what society deems attractive or acceptable.

“I think most designers whether it’s for

swimwear or T-shirts will agree with me when I say finding a manufacturer that can bring your designs to life is one of the biggest challenges when it comes to creating a brand! It’s shockingly difficult to find a manufacturer that can make (and improve) your designs exactly as you have imagined them. Manufacturing is expensive work, especially when you’re new to the game, have no customers placing orders and often no huge amounts of cash lying around to pay for high quantities of stock, which most manufacturing companies require.

“When I first started building my brand, I was modelling and working a nine to five. It was honestly the most stressful period of my life because, here I am working on something I believe in and am so passionate about, but unable to give it my all because time just wouldn't permit. I’ve now left

full-time work (it’ll be two years in June) and I am in a much better place mentally and emotionally. There were moments of imposter syndrome, and I again, think most creatives can relate. Overcoming the crippling feeling of thinking you’re incapable, don’t know what you’re doing or shouldn't be in this space at all.

“Though things can get difficult with juggling modelling work, I’ve got a lot more time on my hands, which means a lot more time to plan, prepare and pour into myself and my brand. For me, it’s integral to my emotional and mental health, that I prioritise spending wholesome time with family and friends and within this, squeeze in some travel. I find that I’m able to remain in a good place mentally, when I have things to look forward to –whether that’s a trip, a birthday party or brunch with friends. This period in my life is showing me that the real luxury in life is time!"

NEW SCHEME FOR ANTENATAL AND MATERNITY CARE

Children’s charity Barnardo’s has launched an innovative new programme to help tackle the crisis in antenatal and maternity care for Black, Asian and Mixed ethnicity families. The Mothers United for Maternity and Mental Health Action (MUMMA) scheme will offer practical help, emotional support to mothers and mothers-to-be. Rukshana Kapasi, Barnardo’s Director of Health, said: “Sadly, we know all too well how Black mothers struggle to get antenatal and maternity care which respects and supports their own cultural views, wishes, and nuances. This can lead to poor mental and physical health for them and their young children in such formative years of their lives.” To find out more, including how to benefit from the service, visit www.barnardos.org.uk/mumma

NEW FACE

After her stint on Love Island, we've been patiently waiting for our favourite 2023 Love Islander, Whitney Adebayo, to secure the bag. Inking a deal with Gymshark to serve as brand ambassador for the new sweat-proof headband, she says: "As a Nigerian woman who has spent the entirety of my career in the hair industry, there is such a gap in the fitness market for people with textured hair. Being involved in this campaign has been an incredibly rewarding process that has allowed me to tap into my passion for hair and fitness.” We love to see it Whit!

Places to visit

COMING SOON – THE CUBE

Forget escape rooms – The Cube takes competitive socialising to a new level! Whether you're a fan of the iconic ITV gameshow or not, The Cube, located in Canary Wharf, will have you and your friends vying for victory in a series of single and multi-player challenges that will push your mental and physical agility to the limits. And after all that, the winner can buy a round at one of the six mixologist led bars to round off the night! bookthecube.com

of the month Quote

“Everything you want to be, you already are. You’re simply on the path to discovering it.”

Alicia Keys

Murielle Kabile

Murielle Kabile aka ‘Edward Scissorhands’ is a hair couturier based in Paris. Using years of hairdressing experience and a multitude of styling disciplines, she turns afro hair into visual art – sans AI. Her penchant for braided jewellery, and sculptured hair is steeped in African, Caribbean, and Western influences. Watch her latest project Don’t Touch My Hair a YouTubebased talk show.

Okikiola Emaleku

Want to improve your selfies with fewer filters? Follow Okikiola, the Skin Priest, who’s shares her continuous journey of facial treatments, microdermabrasion, chemical peels and advanced skincare techniques to combat hormonal acne. Her content feed includes product reviews, skincare routines, and advice on achieving specific skin goals.

The Penny Pal

Need help managing debt or earning extra income? The Penny Pal, run by Sade Taiwo, a money-savvy millennial, offers tips and advice to master your personal finances in no time. Each post breaks down confusing concepts with easy-to-follow lists, flowcharts and graphs to help you get the most out of your money. Plus, she throws in a meme every so often to avoid information-overload.

WHO to follow

Black Culture Market

Supporting black-owned businesses has never been easier – or more fun. Black Culture Market sets up shop at a variety of iconic London venues throughout the year, showcasing producers from the African and Caribbean community. Think gifts, artwork, clothing, jewellery and much more, within a positive, inclusive and lively environment. Want to attend, or even take part? The best way to stay updated and find out about upcoming events is to follow their Instagram page!

Dragon Cat Café

Thirsty for authentic bubble tea? Head to Livat Hammersmith, formerly known as Kings Mall, and stop by Dragon Cat Café, located on the first floor. Open seven days a week, the café serves a wide range of bubble teas, from jasmine to crème brulée milk tea, as well as matcha, coffees and wheelcakes (mouth watering Taiwanese pancakes with creamy fillings). Their Instagram page showcases new drinks and food menu updates – follow to feed your bubble tea cravings!

Salina

Fashion inspiration for the over fifties is few and far between, so when we find an account that we love, we make sure to follow! New York City-based Salina posts flattering outfits that play with colour and texture. Her elegant wardrobe features iconic designer pieces paired with budget high street finds and re-worn items, proving that style doesn’t have to cost the earth. We also love when her partner makes an appearance, offering sophisticated style insight for older men.

Jaded by the same old posts on the ‘Gram? Freshen up your feed with these follow-worthy accounts

@blackculturemarket

THE FEME COLLECTION HAIRCARE GIFT SET LIMITED EDITION

*SET INCLUDES A WIDE TOOTH COMB, SCALP MASSAGER, DETANGLER BRUSH, 2 SATIN PILLOWCASES, SLEEPING MASK AND TRAVEL BAG

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Aisha Ibrahim for Spell Beauty. Make-up by

Styling by

Ranger. Art directing by Jemima Cousins . This page model is wearing Urban Bahamas Loose Twist, colour 27, length 24 inches . Opposite page model is wearing Urban Bahamas Loose Twist, colour 1, length 16 inches

ON Our raDar

Holiday hair loading... Twists with an island-gal spin

GOLDEN GODDESS

Hair colour has moved beyond corporate confines which means sunkissed twists are just as appropriate for the boardroom as they are for bodyboarding – if extreme sports is your thing. Classic colour 27 gives a warm golden bronzed effect, so just like matching your foundation, think of undertones when choosing your goddess glow. If you want to dial it down, think T colours (i.e. T1B/27) .

Urban Bahamas Loose Twist, £9.99; Crème of Nature Apple Cider Vinegar Clarifying Rinse, £7.99; TRESemmé Lamellar Shine Finishing Oil, £5; Ori Lifestyle Silk Sleep Hat, £35

Photography by Glenn Larkby. Hair by

Natasha Wright

Nicole

Y2K TWO STraND TWIST

Avoid two strand twists failures with pre-looped crochet strands. Urban Barbados Twist has all the style qualities for nailing nonchalant boho beach babe; soft body-waved tendrils – check, springy coiled tips – check, plus with premium SYN fibres, maintenance is minimal too. All that’s required on your part is a consistent, nourishing healthy hair routine.

Urban Barbados Twist, £8.99; Charles Worthington Grow Strong Scalp Tonic, £9.99; HASK Keratin 5-in-1 Smoothing Leave In Conditioner Spray, £6.99; Camille Rose Almond Jai Twisting Butter, £13.50

Because no healthy hair journey is complete without it

EVERYTHING YOU NEED for scalp care

Let’s start from the root. Dealing with ‘flakiness’ and ‘itchiness’ is embarrassing enough, but a new report reveals online searches for scalp treatments are up by 300%, proving many of us are tackling the issue head on. “Scalp skin is just as important as facial skin,” says Anabel Kingsley, trichologist at Philip Kingsley, and as part of the body’s largest organ, it’s only right those microscopic follicles receive all the TLC in the world. So why is prioritising our scalp health so important?

Scalp care plays a vital role in our hairs overall condition, appearance, and health. “Your scalp is a living tissue that supports your hair follicles and the hair that emerges from them.

When the scalp is in good condition, strands are given a healthy base from which to grow. However, if your scalp is unhealthy, growth can be hindered,” explains Kingsley.

Research shows that only 50% of people know that’s scalp health is essential for hair growth and 84% had never used a scalp targeting product. Wearing protective styles like braids, wigs and weaves require a robust scalp regime to help regulate natural oils and keep conditions like traction alopecia at bay. “It’s understandable that women may be reluctant to wash freshly installed braids and weaves because they’ve paid money for it and want it to last,” says Aisha Ibrahim, Spell Beauty ambassador. “However, looking after

your own hair is paramount, so after week two, you should clarify the hair and scalp to remove build-up.”

Brands like Design Essentials have nozzled tip bottles to target oil placement, and get in-between tracks and small partings. If you suspect your scalp condition to be more severe, then invest in the CurliD Hair Analysis Kit to uncover issues that will be assessed and treated with a trichologistapproved plan.

A final word from Kingsley: “Just as you would use daily targeted products to address an issue with facial skin, you should use products with targeted active ingredients to treat your scalp when it gets unbalanced.”

Image courtesy of Lottie London x Chaun Legend

BRUSH UP

STRAAND

Exfoliating Scalp Brush, £14 and The Crown Fix Serum, £20

PREP WORK

KERASILK

Exfoliating Scalp Pre-Wash, £23

OIL WELL

DESIGN ESSENTIALS Scalp Care Oils Collection, £9.99 each

DRY BY

SOUL CAP

Cap Hair Towel, £24.99

FLAKE FREE

PHILIP KINGSLEY

Flaky/Itchy Scalp Anti-Dandruff

Shampoo and Conditioner, £27 each

CLOSE UP

CURLID Hair Analysis Kit, £299.99

FULL STEAM AHEAD

THE STEAM BAR

The Steaming Cap, £35

CLEAN SLATE

L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL

SERIÉ EXPERT

Scalp Advanced Anti-Oiliness 2-in-1

Deep Purifier Clay Hair Mask, £29.65

New music and a hair care line... The queen Bey has wash day sorted

Photo credit: Unsplash –My Eyes Lamp

2024 is a big year for Beyoncé Knowles-Carter. Following that bumper Superbowl commercial and a pending world tour – Renaissance Act II, it was fresh into the new year (February to be precise) she launched her highly-anticipated business endeavour: Cécred.

Pronounced ‘sacred’, the hair care brand for all is a play on the singer’s name, much like her latest fragrance, Cé Noir. The premium, rose-heavy floral scent was a colossal evolution from her previous inexpensive and widely worn perfumes (who didn’t own a bottle of Heat?), but Cécred, a hair collection set to disrupt the market, is Beyoncé’s first foray into the world of hair products.

In true Beyoncé style, she dropped a series of teaser clips on Instagram in the run up to the launch. The first being a video of young Beyoncé in what appeared to be Headliners Hair Salon, the Houston-based salon owned by her mother, Tina Knowles. The video was then spliced with close-ups of salon treatments, using Cécred products. Much like Bey’s music and visual art that transcends in to her performances, the brand was already giving off an air of heavy production and a highly curated aesthetic. Could we expect any less from one of the highest female earners in music?

It was long before Cécred secured its Instagram username that its formulas had been in production. Back in May 2023, Beyoncé posted a photo on her own account, with what looked like early iterations of her product range, followed by a note that read: “How many of y’all knew my first job was sweeping hair in my mama’s salon? Destiny’s Child got our start by performing for clients while they were getting their hair done. I was exposed to so many different kinds of entrepreneurial women in her salon [...] I’ve always dreamed of carrying on her legacy.”

FIRST LOOK

Cécred

Clarifying Shampoo & Scalp Scrub, £37

Reconstructing Treatment Mask, £41

Hydrating Shampoo, £29

Nourishing Hair Oil, £43

Moisturizing Deep Conditioner, £37

Moisture Sealing Lotion, £37

Cécred’s products are centred around healthy hair, which appears to be a theme amongst today’s celebrity hair care ranges. Its ethos is shared by Tracee Ellis Ross, whose curl care brand Pattern launched in 2019; and previous Spell Magazine cover star SarahJane Crawford, who entered the hair industry in 2023 with non-toxic, family-focused brand Clean Curls. With a greater societal awareness on the toxicity of certain chemicals and microplastics, as well as sustainability and environmental causes, healthy hair products are likely to be seen as a bare-minimum expectation from celebrity product offerings moving forward, rather than a unique selling point.

In addition to putting healthy hair at the forefront, Cécred is a textureinclusive brand, and celebrities and influencers are noting this in their reviews. Salon owner and stylist to Kelly Rowland, Annagjid “Kee” Taylor, proclaimed that the brand will now be part of Kelly’s regular hair regime, adding that the product combo made the singer’s hair “soft, shiny, and lightweight”. Meanwhile, Nope actress Keke Palmer raved about the curl definition she achieved with a combination of Cécred shampoo, conditioner and mask, telling her Instagram audience, “it’s shaking, it’s moving […] Cécred is a great product”. Over in the UK, Gina Atinuke Knight, who has alopecia, proved that the brand is truly “for everyone” by demonstrating the Clarifying Shampoo & Scalp Scrub, stating, “this is not a good scalp scrub, it’s a great scalp scrub”.

That being said, there were some initial gripes about the cost of delivery to the UK. Keshia East, owner of No Knot Co, mentioned in her review, “Wish she had a UK stockist so shipping wasn’t so expensive”. With a host of British fans, cheaper international shipping is a wise decision, which may be why the brand recently dropped

CECRED’S PRODUCTS ARE CENTERED AROUND HEALTHY HAIR, WHICH APPEARS TO BE THE THEME AMONGST TODAY’S CELEBRITY HAIR CARE RANGES

“BEYONCÉ NEVER GOES TOO OTT, SHE WORKS WITH COLOURS OR STYLES WHICH ARE CONSUMER FRIENDLY AND THAT THE MODERN DAY CLIENT COULD ALSO ACHIEVE IN THE SALON. SHE SHOWS YOU CAN HAVE FABULOUS HAIR AT EVERY OPPORTUNITY.”

their shipping fee to a minimum of £6, with a five to seven business day wait.

Shipping prices haven’t been Cécred’s only criticism. Some have questioned whether Beyoncé should be at the helm of a textured haircare brand when she so often eschews natural hairstyles for wigs and weaves. Bey’s own hairstylist, Neal Farinah, is often bombarded with comments on his Instagram page speculating about the authenticity of his famous client’s tresses, with some even theorising that the singer has never worn her natural hair in public, despite Farinah himself confirming that her famous loose, undone texture is her actual curl pattern.

Regardless of her preferences concerning her own hair, Beyoncé has publicly championed the connection between Black women and their curls. In a 2021 interview with Harper’s Bazaar, the singer said, “I’ve seen how much Black women’s emotions are attached to our hair and beauty. The beauty industry does not always understand these emotions and what we need. I want to build a community where women of all races can communicate and share some of those secrets, so we can continue to support and take care of each other. I want to give women a space to feel their own strength and tell their stories. That is power.” Is this enough to secure the

singer’s legitimacy as an authority in the textured haircare industry? Only time will tell!

Following its announcement and in anticipation of its launch, worldwide Google searches for Cécred reached peak popularity, as did searches for Beyoncé’s own name, suggesting that this celebrity-owned brand is likely to have a cult following that may mirror the likes of Rhianna’s Fenty Beauty. As for its long-term popularity, stay tuned.

Our celebrity hair care launch predictions

Zendaya

Zendaya is a living, breathing fashion icon. We’ll never forget the time she debuted faux locs on the red carpet in 2015. So it stands to reason, a hair care line in her portfolio, would easily garner a dedicated audience. We have our fingers firmly crossed!

Rhianna Halle Berry

Not content with conquering the world of beauty, Rihanna applied for a trademark application for ‘Fenty Hair’ in 2021, and though we haven’t yet caught sight of a launch date or product reveal, expectations are running high.

With the relaunch of rē•spin, a digital community focused on perimenopause and menopausal health, Halle Berry’s passion for the subject means there’s an opportunity for the actress to address an underserved audience with a menopausal hair care line.

Jay Birmingham, celebrity hairdresser

TEXAS TRENDS Yeehaw!

Grab your Stetson – cowboy core is on the rise

Beyoncé’s country hit, This Ain’t Texas, has fashionistas dusting off their old cowboy boots. The trend has enjoyed peaks in interest throughout recent years, following nods to western sartorialism by the likes of Pharrell Williams and A$AP Rocky. So while it’s not uncommon for celebrities to dip into cowboy core with a studded accessory here or a fringed jacket there, some aren’t afraid to take it to the next level with a head-to-toe ensemble; see Lil Nas X’s hot pink Versace hat, jacket and trouser combo on the 2020

Grammys red carpet. Admittedly, the latter approach is well-suited to a Hollywood music award ceremony, but us mere mortals might enjoy a more subtle attempt for fear of wading into costume territory (best to avoid awkward “who are you dressed as?” moments at the Sainsbury’s tills).

Luckily, with the aesthetic making its way into high street collections, it’s easy to incorporate the style into everyday outfits – the most obvious pairings being a hat-and-boot-combo,

double denim, or a western belt and bolo tie.

If you’ve got the budget, try GANNI, Ralph Lauren or Isabel Marant for boots, while Urban Outfitters and Coggles offer some excellent budget options. Those in search of authentic cattlemans, bricks or gamblers (variations of cowboy hat, for the uninitiated) will head straight to the legendary westernwear Stetson, but if you want to avoid paying duty, try Revolve or Free People for zeitgeist designs and colours.

Model images courtesy of Athanasiou

Get the look

Can’t get enough of cowboy core? There are endless subgenres to explore – coastal cowgirl, fall cowgirl , space western, not to mention the related aesthetics: cottagecore, Americana and desertwave (Coachella-goers, unite). But, if all else fails, a simple cow print handbag is timeless.

LASSO LENGTHS

Hair ideas to suit your favourite country fits

X-PRESSION

Pre-Stretched

6x 52 inches, £12.99

THE FEME COLLECTION

Ponytail – Kink 24 inches, £18.99

OUTRE X-PRESSION

Twisted Up Borabora Locs 32 inches, £17.99

RUWA

3x Ruwa Braid 36 inches, £5.49

AFRICAN COLLECTION

Jamaican Locks 44 inches, £6.99

1. New Look Bootcut Jeans, £27.99

2. Athanasiou Blue Western Shirt, £189 3. Revolve Cowboy Hat, £65

4. Marks & Spencer Western Tencel Shirt, £29.50 5. Free People Cowboy Hat by Wyeth, £88 6. The Kooples Leather Belt, £70 7. Hyde & Hare Crossbody Clutch, £135 8. Urban Outfitter Cowboy Boots, £82 9. Ganni Cowboy Boots, £625

X-Pression Ultraviolet

Urban French Curl

Outre X-Pression Twisted Up Springy Afro Twist

Feme Afro Lace Wig

ESSOSA ESSOSA

Essosa may be fresh on the music scene, but she’s not naive to the influence of TikTok and the bolster it can provide new artists. “Is there any other way to get people’s attention?”, she asks rather wisely. At 22 years old and having recently graduated university, she’s already gone viral with her smash single Waste My Time. Quick fun fact: the song has been used in over 71 thousand TikTok videos to date.

Her latest release, Tell Nobody, could have the same fate, with its upbeat tempo and a sound that is reminiscent of noughties R&B artists. Essosa explains, “The vibe and style of the song was very much inspired by Janet Jackson’s All for You and Kelis’ Flashbac k”, ticking all the boxes of those old enough to recall this iconic era of R&B, and those young enough to discover it for the first time.

In her first-ever cover interview, Essosa talks about how it felt to have a song go viral, uprooting from Canada to the UK, and her signature French curl braids.

From TikTok fame to TikTok shopping, meet Gen-Z’s rising R&B star, Essosa

WHAT’S THE MOST INTERESTING THING YOU LEARNED STUDYING PHARMACY AT UNIVERSITY?

Paracetamol, which is a painkiller, doesn’t help you heal quicker - your body heals on its own. Paracetamol ‘shuts up’ the chemical that is causing your brain to know that it’s in pain.

SO WHEN WAS THE MOMENT YOU DECIDED MUSIC WAS THE PATH FOR YOU?

It was when Michael Jackson passed in 2009. The impact he had on the world and how he broke racial barriers made me understand the power that an artist can have. I want to be able to touch people and break boundaries with my music to drive society forward.

YOUR MUSIC HAS BEEN COMPARED TO THAT OF 90S AND NOUGHTIES ARTISTS, BUT WHAT MAKES YOUR SOUND DIFFERENT?

By the time I was 14, I found my writing style. So regardless of what genre of music I’m making, I’m always going to compose a certain way; my harmonic arrangements and my melodies all create my sound. So if I ever made a house song, people would say, ‘that’s Essosa on a house song’. I’m not going to be limited to nineties and 2000s R&B for the rest of my career. It’s going to evolve and grow, but my sound will always be me.

HOW DIFFICULT WAS IT TO FIND THE RIGHT TEAM TO CEMENT YOUR SOUND AND GET IT RIGHT?

It was kinda difficult, because no one knew who I was. Nobody really wanted to work with me. So that was irritating. Being a creative in London – one that hasn’t got clout – it’s just a waste of time. Luckily, I have a good friend from my college, who happens to be a really good producer, and he worked on all my

stuff. But before that, no one wanted to work with me at all. So that was a huge roadblock in my creative process.

WHAT ADVICE DO YOU HAVE TO KEEP GOING?

Sometimes you can’t take things too personally. Some have reached out to try and work with me again, and that’s cool. The way I see it, before then it wasn’t our time. You’ve just got to be true to who you are.

YOUR SINGLE WASTE MY TIME IS ABOUT BEING GHOSTED BY A BOY. WE’VE ALL BEEN THERE! HOW DID YOU DEAL WITH THAT?

What’s funny about that song is I only had one day to be upset. I was at work and I was in tears the whole time. My manager sent me home early! But, the day after, I actually met somebody and I started dating them, so when I

wrote the song, it was after that next relationship fell apart, and I thought that maybe I was really affected by this because I never had time to process my emotions from the first guy. I was like, okay, let me write this song, get it out, and heal. I think it really did help. It touched other people as well, and I didn’t even realise it would.

HOW DID YOU FEEL WHEN THE SONG WENT VIRAL?

When I first started going viral, I was in university preparing for my exams. I didn’t really like social media, so my phone was blowing up and I was just turning it off. I was still revising and I had two essays due that week. I was going into the library every day and no one at university really cared, so it wasn’t affecting my everyday life. It was normal until the week after, when I was working at a pub and then people

would recognise me. I got recognised on the tube and at tube stations, and it got to the point where I was wearing face masks to avoid being noticed.

YOUR SIGNATURE STYLE IS BLONDE FRENCH CURL BRAIDS. WHAT IS IT ABOUT THAT LOOK THAT YOU LOVE?

In secondary school, we always had to have black hair. So, when I went to Sixth Form College, I started trying different hair colours, and I really loved the colour 27 and the way it brought out my undertones and facial features that other styles didn’t highlight. I tried other colours, but went back to 27 and just kept it. I’ve had it since I was 17.

WHAT ARE YOUR GO-TO HAIR AND BEAUTY PRODUCTS?

I’ve just bought a whole bunch of beauty products to upgrade my regime.

Dress & Earings; ASOS; Leather Jacket: Vintage

“I STARTED TRYING DIFFERENT HAIR COLOURS, AND I REALLY LOVED THE COLOUR 27 AND THE WAY IT BROUGHT OUT MY UNDERTONES AND FACIAL FEATURES”

Top: ASOS; Jeans: Zara; Bracelet: ASOS

Photography by Desmond Murray. Hair by Sabine Clough using Urban French Curl. Make-up by Natasha Wright. Styling by Gabrielle Rose-Edwards.

I use Aussie’s conditioner, and it slaps. My friend put me onto the shampoo a while ago, and I actually liked it, so I got the conditioner and I fell in love. I’m usually loyal to Blue Magic’s leave-in conditioner, but I just switched up to the Mielle’s Babassu Oil & Mint Deep Conditioner, which features protein and amino acids because my hair is medium-to-low porosity, and I’d like it to be a bit stronger because I get quite a bit of breakage.

What I’ve realised when it comes to type 4 hair particularly, is that it’s not one size fits all. What works for someone else’s type 4 hair may not work for yours. My natural hair has never been hard to deal with, but also it’s not the same as someone else’s natural hair. Theirs might be coarse, fine, soft, thick - and it might not be the same all over. I recently realised that the back of my hair is a questionable type 4, and that’s different to my sides and crown. It’s about finding hair care that works for you. I’m not following trends because what works for someone else’s hair could destroy my hair.

HAVE YOU BOUGHT ANYTHING FROM TIKTOK BEFORE?

Yes, I love doing a TikTok Shop. Recently, I bought the Kryolan Fixing Spray, which I used once and it was really good. I’ve also seen Made By Mitchell adverts on TikTok up to 30 times a day, so I bought the Think Pink Blursh Pressed Blusher in Think Pink and the Blursh Liquid Blusher in Cow Lick. I don’t regret buying them – plus they were quite cheap!

DO YOU BELIEVE IN TAKING A DIGITAL DETOX?

I can’t really afford to do that anymore! But I pick and choose the spaces that

I’m in online. For example, I just deleted X [formerly Twitter] because I felt like it was rotting my brain. When it comes to TikTok and YouTube, I love educational content, so my feeds are full of that.

BEING BRITISH NIGERIAN, AND RAISED IN TORONTO, CANADA, HOW HAVE THESE CULTURAL BACKDROPS INFLUENCED YOUR LIFESTYLE?

My identity has always been something that I feel I should have struggled with, but I didn’t. I’m lucky. Moving from Toronto to England made me have a deep understanding that a lot of the concepts we adhere to in society are not real, and we could just wake up one day and change it all. For example, to some people, natural hair is seen as unprofessional, but we could wake up one day and decide that it is professional.

I had that understanding from a young age because my life was uprooted. When my family came back to Essex, which is not a very culturally diverse area, I found that I was one of the only British-Nigerian kids in my area, and I had a thick Canadian accent. No one could understand me, but I wanted to fit in, so I forced myself to change my accent to assimilate into Essex culture. But I knew I could never fully assimilate because nobody else looked like me. I noticed that other British-Nigerian kids kind of grew up resenting the fact that they didn’t look like anyone else and couldn’t assimilate, but I accepted it. I’ve always done my own thing. That, amongst everything, is the biggest impact that my background has had. The older you get, the more society tells you that you have to be X, Y or Z. Instead of giving value to these things that aren’t real, you should give value to yourself.

“INSTEAD OF GIVING VALUE TO THINGS THAT AREN’T REAL, YOU SHOULD GIVE VALUE TO YOURSELF”

Essosa’s essentails

URBAN

French Curl in colour 27/613, £9.99

MADE BY MITCHELL

Blursh Liquid Blush, £14

AUSSIE

3 Minute Miracle Moisture Treatment, £4.99

MIELLE

Babassu Oil Mint Deep Conditioner, £12.99

GLAZED GOALS

Beauty obsessions are engineered to come and go. And yet glossy lips remain a permanent fixture. You can go for a run-of-the-mill lip gloss, but why, when there are glazes, oils, and jellies to double up on the shine factor. The latest launches are peppered with scientific jargon to reinforce the fact it’s not just gloop on a stick. Ciaté London’s nourishing Triple-R Complex rejuvenates, replenishes, and renews, and newcomer Haus Labs

PHD Glaze is powered with vegan collagen and Polyplumper Complex to boost pouts without a needle in sight. For a natural approach backed by clinical results, try Kush Oil by Milk Makeup a hybrid of hemp seed and plant oils.

BY TERRY

Hyaluronic Global Eye Serum, £54

spell loves

FEED YOUR INNER PRODUCT JUNKIE

New-gen SPFs! Mirror-shine lip tints! Customised facials! We’ve got all the must-know beauty launches designed to put a spring in your step

SPELL ED’S CHOICE

CIATÉ LONDON

Dewy Gloss Tinted Lip Jelly, £18

MILK MAKEUP

Kush Lip Oil, £22 HAUS LABS Phd Hybrid Lip Glaze, £22

IN-FLIGHT TRAVEL ESSENTIALS

KUTEMWA

Radiance A, C, E Serum, £22

FRUIT WORKS Head To Toe Treatment Gift Set, £10

THE FEME COLLECTION

Satin Sleeping Mask & Pillowcase Set, £13

While long lines at security, delayed flights and sardine tin-like rows of plane seats are all part and parcel of making the great pilgrimage to warmer climes, it’s possible to make your travel time that little bit more bearable with a few well-thoughtout accessories.

Courtesy of Ciaté London

SUN SEEKER

If you want your skin to retain its youthfulness and elasticity for longer, SPF is the best place to start. Ultraviolet A (UVA) rays cause almost all forms of premature skin ageing, including wrinkles The latest generation of SPFs contain built-in ingredients to complement your skincare and make-up routine, such as restorative ceramides and antioxidants. The clever formulas are no longer heavy, slippy, or leave the dreaded white cast making them ideal for all year round.

FACETIME

Mum’s motto is: “Don’t to do things by halves”. So, if you’re going to book a facial, think Ilapothecary. Loaded with soothing and calming techniques designed to heal the appearance of hyperpigmentation and tension in the jaws and cheek – who knew we carry so much stress in the face?, my therapist read my skin like a Google street map. I was treated to LED light therapy, Gua Sha and Ayurvedic massages melting away the tired look and feel induced from too much screen time.

Ilapothecary Supreme Silk Signature Facial, £185 for 90mins, The Beauty Edit Mayfair, W1J

1. MORPHE Sunsetter SPF 30 High-Protection Broad-Spectrum Setting Spray, £18; 2. SKIN PROUD

Serious Shade SPF 50+ Sunscreen, £16.95;

3. SUPER FACIALIST Age Defence Serum for Men, £16; 4. GAIA SPF 50+ Daily Moisturiser, £35;

5. AVA ESTELL Summer Body Cream, £19.99

#MOOD

Pink is a mood boosting colour that symbolises happiness, femininity, and the love of oneself and others. It also suits all nail shapes, so expect to see it everywhere this spring/summer.

LEIGHTON DENNY

MYLEE

Nail Polish in Plush Pink, £12.50

Gel Polish Candy Pink, £8.99

Photo

The

indigenious African braids hits the spotlight

African culture is the blueprint for braid trends and taking the hair helm for summer 2024 are Koroba braids. Originating from West and Central Africa, in Yoruba it translates to ‘Calabash’, a woven basket. Following the resurgence of throwback tribal styles like Fulani and threading, Koroba is one of the most artistic forms of canerowing we’ve seen hit the scene. Characterised by swirls framing the face, there are no half measures when it comes adorning this crown. If your hairline is weak or you’re adverse to weight on the scalp, choose pattern designs that will place less tension on tender areas.

@slayedinbraids

@kayratheodore

@slayedinbraids

@pinterest

@diana_eneje

@slayedinbraids

@eddyelize

Thanks to the influence of SkinTok, there’s a new skincare buzzword emerging monthly from the aether: slugging, beauty snacking, microdosing, skin flooding – the ever-changing dermatological vocabulary is enough to keep the Oxford English Dictionary in print. And those are just the trends; there’s a whole lexicon of skincare ingredients waiting to be explored.

However, while dermatologists can’t wait to sink their teeth into a new ‘skingredient’, the average consumer might struggle to know the difference between squalanes and squalene (read issue 03 for the answer), or the pros and pitfalls of retinol. Without the right knowledge, the world of skincare can be a minefield, and blindly following trends could spell danger for your complexion. This is where the experts come in.

According to founder of CPD-accredited course, Skin Masterclass PRO, Cigdem Kemal Yilmaz, there’s one trending area of skincare that you should try to get to know if you’re longing for hydrated, healthy-looking skin: humectants. It’s a category that contains a well-known ingredient which you might have heard of –hyaluronic acid – and is associated with leave-on products, like creams and serums. Here, Cigdem expands on four humectants to get to know, and why it’s not all about hyaluronic acid.

“Humectants constitute a broad category of ingredients. Unfortunately, in the realm of skincare the spotlight is often solely on hyaluronic acid, however it’s good to be aware of a wider array of options because not all skin types may appreciate or tolerate hyaluronic acid.”

ERYTHRITOL

Skin Shop

Glow Tonic,

“Erythritol can help enhance skin hydration and prevent dryness. It has hygroscopic properties, which means it attracts and retains moisture on the skin’s surface. As an antioxidant, erythritol can also help diminish the signs of aging, such as fine lines, wrinkles, and age spots, by preventing collagen breakdown and promoting collagen synthesis. Erythritol also has soothing properties that can help reduce skin irritation and redness.”

Skin Shop

COSRX

Galactomyces 95

Tone Balancing Essence,

GALACTOARABINAN

“Galactoarabinan has excellent waterbinding properties, making it a highly effective night and day moisturiser. Galactoarabinan acts as a penetration enhancer, improving the delivery and absorption of other active ingredients into the skin, and increasing the efficacy of skincare products. It’s also a great ingredient for sensitive or irritated skin types.”

PIXI

£18

£26.99

Image courtesy of Ciaté London Product recommendations are not from Cigdem Kemal Yilmaz

SODIUM PCA

Skin Shop

SUPER FACIALIST

Vitamin C+

Brighten

Cleansing Oil, £14

“Sodium PCA is a powerful humectant that attracts and retains moisture in the skin. It also enhances the skin’s natural barrier function by replenishing and repairing its protective lipid layer. It’s a naturally occurring component of the skin’s own moisturising factors, so as a result, it is well-tolerated and compatible with the skin, making it suitable for a wide range of skin types including sensitive skin.”

Skin

BUzzwordS

Skincare formulator and founder of Skin Masterclass, Cigdem Kemal Yilmaz reveals the humectants we should have in our skincare routine all year round – and it’s not just hyaluronic acid

MANNITOL

Skin Shop

BIODERMA

Pigmentbio

Brightening

Cleansing

Micellar Water, £12

“Mannitol has antioxidant properties that can help protect the skin from harmful free radicals. It also has anti-inflammatory and pain-relieving properties that can help to soothe and calm the skin. It is beneficial for conditions such as sunburn, eczema, and other skin irritations. Mannitol is also an effective stabiliser and can help maintain the efficacy of other skincare ingredients over time.”

qUiTTing ARE WE NATURAL HAIR?

Curls or convenience? More women are choosing the latter and it makes sense why qUiET

It hasn’t escaped our notice that the natural hair community is undergoing a major shift. With some of our favourite go-to curly-haired YouTubers and naturalista celebs – quick name drop: Solange, Janelle Monae, and Chrisette Michele – donning straight styles, it begs the question – are we quiet quitting natural hair? For one, the hashtag numbers don’t lie. #silkpress has garnered 147.m TikTok views and YouTube is trending with video titles like Relaxing my 4c hair after 5 years of being natural, Back to relaxer & why I don’t regret it, I’m tired sis – cue relaxer video.

RETURN TO RELAXERS?

Within the social media landscape, individuals have been transparent about transitioning back to relaxers. Hair and beauty influencer, Ambrosia Malbrough, who is famed for her type 4 popping curls shocked followers back in 2021 when she filmed a video in her car on the way to a relaxer appointment. In the clip she tentatively stated: “I’m kind of nervous because I don’t want my scalp to have pus and blood. I don’t want my hair to be stuck to my scalp. But the reality is I don’t have the time to deal with a whole bunch of hair. I don’t want to have to do a twist out or braid out. And that’s just where I’m at right now with two kids – this is the reality of my hair.”

Rather than taking a few isolated incidents to paint a broad stroke, there is data to corroborate the theory; more Black women are turning towards relaxers and alternative hair straightening methods. A report produced by marketreportsworld.com, states the global hair relaxer market is currently valued at US$ 772.02 million, and projected to increase to US$ 945.81 million by 2031. This is a sharp reversal to the rapid decline in relaxer sales over the past decade.

THE NATURAL HAIR MOVEMENT IN THE NOUGHTIES

To provide context we must look to the turn of the millennium. The decline of relaxers coincided with the rise of the natural hair movement, which emerged during the early 2000s. Social media provided a platform for women around the world to congregate in a space to discuss and share their personal hair journey. Education became a key factor as the link between relaxers causing serious health conditions like uterine cancer, fibroid tumours, endocrine, hormonal issues and infertility was highlighted on a wider scale. As a result, this was the empowering act and appeal to going natural – it gave black women the autonomy over hair choices, self-image, and health.

With hashtags like #relaxedhair reaping 698.6m TikTok views, perhaps we now have a blasé attitude towards relaxers. Winnie Awa, founder of Carra, a scienceled hair portal geared towards nurturing textured hair, told us: “When we look at our data from Carra, we’ve noticed that many women have said that they’ve tried and yet they are still finding it difficult to care for their natural hair. So, a part of it is they are opting for something simpler, as they are finding that natural hair maintenance is taking too much time. What also came up during our conversations is this feeling of wanting aesthetic freedom. Sometimes you just want to wear your hair straight, sometimes you want braids, sometimes you want to wear it curly – it’s really a selfexpression thing.”

THE CYCLE OF HAIR (AND LIFE)

The changing of the guard from curly textures to straight is nothing new. In the Sixties and Seventies, the Black is Beautiful and Black Power movements was

A consistent routine is the key to thriving natural hair

CURLSMITH

Double Cream Deep Quencher, £68

AS I AM Leave-In Conditioner, £7.95

ORI LIFESTYLE

Silk Scarf, £36

MATRIX

A Curl Can Dream Lightweight Oil, £16.89

a full embracing of afros which was swapped out in the Eighties for curly perms and the hot comb. With the Eighties being an era of glamour, excess and unapologetic ambition, straight hair was deemed to represent upward mobility, status, and refinement, whereas natural hair was relegated to being a thing of the past. In the groundbreaking book, Hair Story: Untangling The Roots of Black Hair in America, authors Ayanna D. Byrd and Lori L. Tharps, wrote: “The Black is Beautiful Movement was intended to liberate Blacks from enslavement to the concepts of ‘good’ and ‘bad’ hair. Yet as the Eighties progressed, it appeared that beauty ideals remained entrenched in a Eurocentric image.”

The naughties natural hair movement successfully reaffirmed coily, kinky and curly textured hair is beautiful and aspirational. So, how can we ensure that we don’t undo all the work of the last two decades?

Most experts agree that the current trend for straight hair is aligned to convenience and self-expression, as opposed to an intrinsic belief it’s superior.

“We know afro hair is the most versatile amongst all hair categories as it allows for multiple transformations,” explains Jacqui McIntosh, European Education Director at Avlon. “You can go from natural, to temporary and chemical state, hence giving clients the opportunity to be experimental in creating looks while retaining the hair’s integrity and embracing the individual’s personality. For the first time in years, hairstylists have an arsenal of products for use to facilitate every client’s needs.”

POST-PANDEMIC HAIR FREEDOM

The pandemic was the tipping point that caused a shift in attitude towards convenience. A report by Mastercard revealed wig sales soared by 75 per cent, and when the world opened back up,

TEAM STRAIGHT

Attain straight hair goals with effortless ease

PHYTO SPECIFIC

Phytorelaxer Permanent Relaxing, £31.99

L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL

SERIE EXPERT

Absolut Repair Molecular Leave in Mask, £30

DYSON

Airstrait Straightener, £499.99

KERACARE

High Sheen Glossifier, £6.99

women flocked to the salons for blowdries and silk presses. It’s a phenomenon that hasn’t gone unnoticed by beauty journalist and broadcaster, Keeks Reid. “I think that the people who went natural during the pandemic had a realisation about the maintenance of afro-textured hair versus straighter hair. And now the world has opened up again and social obligations have taken over, it doesn’t really mesh well for those who want to look after their natural hair in a healthy way. Social media has also helped to fuel this trend. People are seeing others go from textured hair to straight and feeling confident in their choices.”

Having the freedom to make an informed choice when it comes to our hair is really the ultimate goal, as Winnie Awa sums up perfectly: “I hope that we get to the point where we get all the support we need to be able to take care of our hair. Then ultimately, if you want to wear any colour you want, wear your hair straight, or wear it in its natural state - you can do that. I just think that the most important thing, no matter someone’s aesthetic choice is the fact that it’s been done healthily without toxic chemicals that could have grave consequences to one’s health.”

THE IN-BETWEENERS

For when you fancy a bit of texture play, try these options

FEME WIG Wild Spirals, £20.99

HAIR REHAB LONDON

Luxury Silk Heatless Hair Curler, £32.99

“HAVING THE FREEDOM TO MAKE AN INFORMED CHOICE WHEN IT COMES TO OUR HAIR IS REALLY THE ULTIMATE GOAL.”

Winnie Awa, founder of Carra

BELLISSIMA

Beach Waves Styler 2 in 1, £59.99

THE FEME COLLECTION Mannequin Head,

from £19.99

Photography by Chris Bulezuik. Hair by Sian Tulloch from River Hair Company for Schwarzkopf Professional. Make-up by Maddie Ausitn. Styling by Clare Frith

Wet, Wet, Wet

LOTTIE LONDON Gloss’d Made Ya’ Smile, £4.95

ILIA In Frame Brow Gel £24

Nail the look with these high-shine but non-sticky products

OSIS+ Curl Jam Curl Defining Gel, £15.80

FACEWISE Face Care

Revitalising Face Oil, £21.95

MAC

SHEA MOISTURE Jojoba Oil And Ucuuba Butter Braid-Up Conditioning Gel, £7.99

FENTY Beauty Gloss Bomb Heat Lip Luminizer and Plumper, £22

MILK MAKEUP Cream Highlighter Stick, £22

INDOLA Texture Glue, £6.96

MAC MACXIMAL Silky Matte Lipstick, £25

Hyper Real Fresh Canvas Cream-to-Foam Cleanser, £30

Photo credit: Tolu Coker LFW AW24

Beauty of Support

Janet Clarke highlights the link between Black women and late-stage cancer diagnoses – and how Macmillan are working hard to end the disparity

Nearly one in two people will receive a cancer diagnosis in their lifetime. It’s a frightening statistic, but it’s one that Macmillan are confronting head-on on behalf of cancer patients of all backgrounds. However, recent research has found that Black women are more likely to be diagnosed with certain types of cancer at later stages (stages three and four), when treatment is less likely to succeed. In light of this, Macmillan has launched a new campaign in Southeast London with the help of award-winning salon Hype Coiffure, aiming to encourage conversations about cancer between Black women and their hairdressers to break down taboos and improve access to support.

HAIR CONNECTION

For many women, hair is not just about aesthetics; it’s deeply intertwined with culture, heritage, and personal identity. This relationship makes the mental and emotional impact of cancer-related hair loss profound for Black women.

The experience of hair loss due to cancer treatment can be traumatic. It can lead to feelings of vulnerability, loss of identity, and diminished self-esteem. These feelings can be amplified due to the societal and cultural significance placed on hair. Hair is often seen as a symbol of strength, beauty, and connection to African roots. Hence why losing it can feel like losing a part of oneself.

The process of hair regrowth and the potential changes in texture and appearance can further affect a woman’s sense of self and confidence. The journey to reclaiming one’s identity and feeling comfortable with their new appearance can be challenging.

It’s also important to consider the support systems and resources available. The availability of culturally sensitive support services, including counselling and peer support groups that understand the unique relationship between Black women and their hair,

can play a critical role in the healing process. Access to wigs and hairpieces that cater to Black women’s hair textures and styles can also provide a sense of normalcy and empowerment during a difficult time.

Overall, the mental impact of cancerrelated hair loss on Black women is multifaceted. Addressing these impacts requires a holistic approach that considers the cultural significance of hair and provides supportive resources tailored to their needs.

TABOO IN COMMUNITIES

This can stem from a combination of historical, cultural and social factors. There’s a longstanding mistrust among many in the Black community to wards the medical system, rooted in historical abuses. This mistrust can lead to a reluctance to discuss or engage with health issues such as cancer for fear of discrimination, mistreatment or being used without consent in research.

In some cultures there can be a stigma attached to cancer, viewing it as a death sentence. This fear can discourage open discussions about cancer, leading to delays in seeking treatment or screening. The lack of conversation can perpetuate misinformation and fear.

Socioeconomic factors are one of the issues in regards to access to healthcare. It is a significant issue in many Black communities, with systemic inequalities affecting their ability to receive timely cancer screenings and treatments. The awareness and discussions around cancer can be limited by these systemic barriers, contributing to the topic becoming taboo as it highlights broader injustices and inequalities.

Religious or spiritual beliefs may influence perceptions of illness, including cancer. There might be a preference for spiritual healing and prayer over medical treatment or beliefs that discussing illness can bring it into existence. Such views can make it challenging to have open conversations about cancer.

There’s a lack of representation in healthcare and medical research concerning Black individuals. This underrepresentation can lead to a lack of culturally competent care and information, making it harder for Black communities to relate to the information and services provided, further entrenching the taboo around discussing cancer.

Understanding and addressing these factors requires culturally sensitive approaches, community engagement, and efforts to build trust and increase representation in healthcare. It’s also crucial to provide education that is accessible and relevant to the community’s needs, helping to break down the taboos surrounding cancer and encourage early detection and treatment.

MACMILLAN AWARENESS

Macmillan Cancer Support offers various forms of assistance specifically designed to meet the needs of Black women affected by cancer. One of the innovative projects is the new Beauty of Support initiative in Southeast London - piloting in the Lambeth, Lewisham and Southwark areas - which facilitates conversations about cancer between Black women and their hairdressers to break down taboos and improve access to support. This project emerged from focus group insights with women of African and Caribbean backgrounds and aims to increase breast cancer awareness, encourage early diagnosis, and provide resources for both those affected by cancer and the hairdressers who can play a crucial role in support and awareness.

Macmillan Cancer Support provides practical advice on choosing and using wigs for those undergoing cancer treatment, including Black women and those from minority ethnic groups. They offer guidance on selecting wigs that match one’s style and colour before hair loss occurs, ensuring the wig looks natural. They also provide information on NHS wig suppliers that offer styles for people from any ethnic group, with recommendations to contact specialist wig suppliers or seek online options for more variety. Additionally, Macmillan provides tips for fitting and wearing wigs comfortably, managing costs through NHS prescriptions or charity grants, and caring for wigs to maintain their condition.

Training will be provided to hairdressers about Macmillan and their services, and how to have comfortable cancer conversations so they can respond to queries that their clients may have. Hairdressers will also be trained in simple health promotion messaging and motivational interviewing techniques to encourage the uptake of breast cancer screening and to encourage their clients to contact the Macmillan helpline.

Whatever you need to ask, Macmillan is available seven days a week via their website or support line, 0800 808 0000. Visit spellmagazine.co.uk to read the extended interview with Janet Clarke

AK E vs REAL

FFollow these tips to not fall victim to counterfeit X-Pression braids

X-Pression has been the go-to braiding brand for generations. Grandma knows it, mum used it, now we’re here to continue the tradition. As one of the major players in the hair industry, it has set the standard for premium quality braiding extensions. But in a world where imitation is the best form of flattery, identifying authentic X-Pression braids has become increasingly challenging. The sophistication of counterfeit products makes it hard to know what you’re buying. So, to avoid picking up imitations during your next hair shop, here are some useful tips to identify genuine X-Pression braids.

Model is wearing X-Pression Ultra Braid in colour 1B

PRODUCT LABEL VERIFIED HOLOGRAM

1. Inspect the packaging for any signs of poor quality, misspelled words, or inconsistent branding.

2. Original X-Pression braids have a firm label with neatly trimmed borders. The item name is always clearly displayed too.

3. The inside backboard has the X-Pression logo printed grey in a step and repeat format. If printed in any other colour, or not at all, this suggests the product is fake.

NYLON PACKAGING

1. Examine the outer packaging. The print quality of the X-Pression logo on the nylon packaging is solid and clear.

2. Original X-Pression packaging usually has three air holes on it.

3. Check the quality of the sealing on both ends of the nylon packaging. Original X-Pression are neatly sealed while counterfeits are not.

4. Pay attention to the length of the nylon packaging. Some counterfeits buy used X-Pression nylon packaging which often appears shorter compared to the original packaging because some parts of the nylon have been cut off.

1. To identify original X-Pression braids, the label has a hologram sticker for security.

2. Check the size and stamp of the hologram to ensure it corresponds with the original X-Pression red logo.

3. Install the Hidden Tag app and scan the sticker to receive a confirmation message that the product is genuine.

4. If there is no Hidden App sticker, look for the oval hologram sticker with the X-Pression logo. This is also confirmation that the product is genuine.

HAIR

1. Authentic X-pression braids are known for its high-quality synthetic fibers. Check the texture and feel of the hair fibre. They should be soft, smooth, and consistent in colour.

2. Pay attention to the length and weight too. Original X-Pression braids are 82 inches in length and weigh 165 grams.

3. If in doubt, check the colour of the rubber band used to fasten the product to the label. Original X-Pression are fastened with black rubber bands.

SPELL MEETS Soundbites

Catch up on our latest interviews with trailblazing women at spellmagazine.co.uk

LORNA JONES

Certified trichologist

“In most cases after chemotherapy, hair will regrow. However, in some cases, it could become permanent, and the condition is known as persistent ChemotherapyInduced Alopecia (pCIA) or permanent ChemotherapyInduced Alopecia (CIA). Radiotherapy Induced Alopecia (RIA) can also occur if treatment is applied to the head and neck area. This can sometimes result in permanent hair loss with higher doses. I would always suggest having this conversation with the oncology health care team, to help manage expectations.”

SANDRA GANT CEO / founder of Terre Candle

NGOZI ONWUCHEKA

Scan the QR code to read the full interviews

“Always trim your candle before burning and burn for two to three hours max at a time. This way you’ll have a healthy flame that’s not too tall to generate heat to melt the wax quickly. Keep the wax pool clear of wick trimmings and debris, including burnt matches. Avoid air drafts which can cause soot and uneven burning, and remember to burn all candles in a well-ventilated room. As relaxing as it might be, never fall asleep to candlelight.”

Mrs Universe 2023 and cancer survivor

“It's important to always seek a second opinion, especially when it comes to your health. In my case, I was experiencing bleeding that my doctors had attributed to stress and dismissed as a minor issue. I trusted their diagnosis until I confided in a close friend who is a fitness instructor. She was alarmed by my symptoms and urged me to persist with seeking medical attention until my concerns were taken seriously.”

JOANNA ADEYINKABURFORD

Author and

CBeebies presenter

“For me, as a Christian, good spiritual wellbeing means nurturing my relationship with God. Just as I would nurture any relationship! (We spend time with the people we love, we seek to learn more about them and understand how they feel about us). The What’s Up book is full of recounts of moments from my life and how I’ve navigated those moments with my faith, trusting God through the highs and lows of life. We don’t have to have it all together to have good spiritual health, instead I think it’s important to be able to be content with who you were created to be and walk through life with the confidence of knowing you were designed uniquely, without fault and that you have a purpose!”

BEAUTY

AVA ESTELL uk.avaestell.com

BIODERMA boots.com

BY TERRY byterry.com

CIATÉ LONDON ciatelondon.com

FACEWISE facewiseskincare.com

FENTY BEAUTY boots.com

FRUIT WORKS superdrug.com

GAIA gaiaskincare.com

HAUS LABS sephora.co.uk

ILIA iliabeauty.com

KUTEMWA kutemwaskin.com

LEIGHTON DENNY leightondenny.com

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MAC maccosmetics.co.uk

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MILK MAKEUP sephora.co.uk

MORPHE uk.morphe.com

MYLEE mylee.co.uk

PIXI pixibeauty.co.uk

SKIN PROUD iamproud.com

SUPER FACIALIST superfacialist.co.uk

HAIR

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CRÈME OF NATURE superdrug.com

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KERASILK amazon.co.uk

L’OREAL PROFESSIONAL

MATRIX amazon.co.uk

MIELLE spellbeauty.com

ORI LIFSTYLE orilifestyle.com

OSIS+ sephora.co.uk

PHILIP KINGSLEY philipkingsley.co.uk

PHYTO SPECIFIC amazon.co.uk

RUWA spellbeauty.com

SCANDINAVIAN BIOLABS scandinavianbiolabs.co.uk

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SOFN’FREE amazon.co.uk

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X-PRESSION spellbeauty.com

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GYMSHARK uk/gymshark.com

HYDE & HARE hydeandhare.com

MARKS & SPENCER marksandspencer.com

NEW LOOK newlook.com

REVOLVE revolve.com

THE BEAUTY EDIT beautyeditmyfair.com

THE KOOPLES thekooples.com

THICKS & BONES thicksandbones.co.uk

URBAN OUTFITTERS urbanoutfitters.com