Hiking Trails in Himara Region

HIKING TRAILS IN THE MYSTERIOUS SOUTH HIMARË

B AN

IA

AL

3

04

Introduction

08

Overview Map

10

Hiking Trails “The Forgotten Caravan Route” “Village to village in Shushica Valley” “From the Highlands to the Beach” “The Last Beat to the Beach” “The Slogans” “Shepherd’s Trail” “The Partisans’ Trail” “Across the Mountain on Shepherd’s Trails” “Walk and Swim” “When Mountains End in the Deep Blue Sea” “The Coastal Ridge Traverse”

50

Guest House Information

4

Introduction

“The highlights of the hiking trails in the Southern Coastal Region” The Southern coastal mountains of Albania are certainly one of the most rewarding regions for hikers in the entire country. Diverse landscapes, from rugged ridges with an alpine feel to remote villages in green river valleys, and from long, unspoiled beaches to the highlands of the hinterland, the region caters for truly all tastes.

Traditionally an area for hiking and recreation, the Llogara National Park forms the northwestern edge of the coastal mountains and covers over 1000 hectares, much of it pristine forests of black pine, Bosnian pine, ash trees and Bulgarian firs. From the Llogara Pass the spectacular range of Mt. Çika and Mt. Qorre extends to the southeast along the coast and gives the term “above sea level” a whole new meaning as you look down on the crystal blue waters of the Ionian sea from above 2000 m.

5

Behind this mountain range lie perched in the valley of the river Shushica traditional villages, where shepherds still take their herds grazing on meadows and summer pastures and sing iso-poliphony, a traditional part of Albanian folk music, which is even inscribed in UNESCO’s intangible cultural heritage list. This valley is part of the historical region of Labëria, culturally distinguishable from the rest of Albania in its traditions and folklore.

During Ottoman times, the local population were warlike, pastoral people who lived mainly in the highlands of Kurvelesh, Progonat and Vlorë. But also relicts of Albania’s more recent history can be found, with partisan’s monuments and examples of communist propaganda still visible in many of the villages.

6

Walking in the highlands, it is almost hard to believe that sandy beaches and the Albanian Riviera are just a day’s hike away, where traditional old stone houses mix with modern summer tourism resorts. Villages with noticeable Greek influence, old monasteries and flatter territories, while still with the impressive mountain backdrop, invite to explore the area on foot, before rewarding yourself with a swim in the sea.

Shushica Valley Trek

7

This series of hikes make it possible to walk from the village of near Vlora to Shushica valley, passing some of the villages of this valley, also known as Lower Kurvelesh. By crossing the coastal Ceraunian Mountain range the trek can be finished at the Albanian Riviera. The hikes can be undertaken as day walks as well.

Public transport to reach the villages of this valley can be found in VlorĂŤ, near the municipality. The first minibuses leave at 7am and the last ones at 1 pm.

Radhimë

8

Mazhar cë shi hu l. S

GJIRI I DUKATIT

s

m . VAL-DERRIT # 982

Orikum

Izvo ri

G

m . SKILLAVIKUT # 1485

Dukat Fushe J 8 Du

Dukat Fshat J 8

ti

ka

m . KOLLOVOÇKES # 1227

Tragjas

I LI MA NG LU ES AR

PASHA LIMANI

Gumenicë

D l. a uk tit

Pirg J T 8

m . SHENDELLIUT # 1499

J 8

m . ÇIK # 20

Palasë

Dh J 8

D

E

T I

Overview Map 0

1

2

4

6

8 Kilometers

J O

N

Ploçë

Matohasanaj

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Vermik m . KENDREVICES # 2122

Shales

nç

h ad

Bolenë

Vranisht

J 8

Nivicë Kozica

Gusmar

m . MUREVE # 1700

Kallarat J 8 m . THATE #

Kuç J 8

ë

m . PAPADHISE # 1481

m . MBLERZES # 1096

r Ço

Br od

an i

Ilias Vuno J 8

e

r

Pilur J 8

L ug

Fterrë adha Lang

i

GJIRI I SPILES

Kudhës J 8

Kudhës

Himarë

Ma dia

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Çorraj l. Qepar oit

hërmi

a

M l.

KES 045

ica

Shush

s

Salari

Bë

Brataj

në thi ok

E ET S AL E M RIB G

Matogjin Bashaj kth Ramicë Smo ina m l. S

gu J Tërbaç 8

Dhëmblan

m . TURTURIT # 1971

Velçë

Lepenicë

s l. josë V

Vajzë

Gjorm

Lap Vjos 9 a Martalloz

Sinanaj

m . VRRIUT # 540

GJIRI I PALERMOS

Qeparo Borsh JFushë J 8 8 Qazim ra e Ft

Pali

m . LUGJIT 1048 #

Shushica Valley Trek

10

“The Forgotten Caravan Route” Dukat - Tërbaç

This transfer hike from the village of Dukat to Shushica Valley can be continued as a multi-day trek, crossing the Ceraunian Range and finishing at the Albanian Riviera in the small town of Himarë. There is public transport from Vlora to Dukat every day at 11:00 and 15:30. The bus leaves near the Muradie Mosque.

The village of Dukat, embedded in a small side valley at the foothills of the Llogara National Park, is our starting point. We hike on a forgotten caravan route that once connected the Roman harbor of Orikum with inland colonies, but is nowadays only used by goat herders anymore. From the center of the village by the big tree we take a right and follow the ascent leaving the village, passing a shepherd’s hut after a short while. The trail then turns into a rocky cows’ path that leads along the right side rim of the canyon. After crossing the river we ascend along the ridge between the two rivers on a heavily eroded path. From there, the trail continues through low ferns and bushes, before winding up through the forest to Qafa e Shengjergjit (St. George’s Pass, 1132 m). This is a great spot to have lunch with a view of the sea on one side and Shushica Valley and the Southern Highlands on the other. At the junction below the pass, on the descent, don’t follow the good path left but instead turn down on the gravel and join the good donkey path on right side.

Panoramic views of the Ceraunian (Greek for “thunder-split peaks”) Range’s highest tops accompany the descent, until the donkey trail leads us through ancient oak forest and from the deserted village of Pirgu further on to Tërbaç. In the afternoon you can explore the village and remains of communist buildings.

TOTAL TIME

TOTAL DISTANCE

TOTAL UPHILL

TOTAL DOWNHILL

6H

12.5Km

875m

700m

12.5 km

Distance

10 km

8 km

6 km

4 km

2 km

m m m m m 0 km

Elevation

1166 1000 800 600 400

DIFFICULTY Moderate

400

Thilpati

Dukat Fshat

D

q.Qerxhines

J 8

Shata

Solrani

5 00

600 700 800

1 ¬1

1600

m.Paliskes

# 1701

13 0 0

150 0

#m.Boçkës

D

q.Shengjergjit

1100

679

1400

Pirgu

#

900

0 170

Tërbaç

1 20 0

J 8

±

400

0

400

800

1000

1,200 Meters

679

12

“The forgotten caravan route”

13

Shushica Valley Trek

14

“Village to village in Shushica Valley” Tërbaç - Kallarat

A more relaxed walking day, that can be further divided up, takes you from Tërbaç to Vranisht and from there to Kallarat. The trail takes you through oak forest, along turquoise waters of the Shushica river and offers nice views towards Mt. Kendrevica further inland.

Return to where you entered the village and turn down on the ridge, aiming for the lower neighborhood. Follow the dirt road leaving the village until a trail descends on the left side to a foot bridge, which allows to crossing the stream. Slightly climbing up on a gravel road you enter an apple plantation and soon after take a trailless shortcut through the oak forest.

TOTAL TIME

TOTAL DISTANCE

TOTAL UPHILL

TOTAL DOWNHILL

5H

13.1Km

150m

300m

13.1 km

12 km

Distance

10 km

8 km

6 km

4 km

m m m m m m m

2 km

562 500 450 400 350 300 250

0 km

Elevation

Through orchards and light forest, meeting donkey riders along the way, we approach Vranisht, a village situated at the foot of the highest coastal mountain, Mt. Çika (2044 m).The village offers accommodation should you choose to end your hiking day here, or alternatively makes a good stop for a coffee break and chat with the locals, if you plan on carrying on. We continue along the main dirt road before turning right, crossing the footbridge and following the trail that takes us through the hills between Vranisht and Kallarat. Yesterday’s St. George’s Pass crossing, as well as the slopes of Mt. Bogonica, are visible from the last pass above our destination.

In Kallarat, as in most of the villages in this valley, many monuments dedicated to the partisans’ anti-fascist struggle can be found. Different families of the village are able to host you for an overnight stay, which makes an excellent opportunity for tasting more of the pastoral community’s cuisine, excellent cheese and other milk products.

DIFFICULTY Moderate

Tërbaç

0 100

J 8

600

0 50

Lekaj Likudhe 8 00

li i pyl

700

t hku dus

m.Rrethi I Papadhise

# 471

20

Gryka r eB

am

ys

jes hn

# 297

ha fus Bramysh

q.Pellumbit Sinovaka D

331

00

3

40 0

#

Hor

lik

ut

331

M

es ap

9 ¬

sh a

e

J 8

q.Limita

m.Gjate

# 380

D

Vranisht

m.Qores

fu

Sheshe Lenga

#

Hor

Sh u

s hi

ca

Vurgjith

m.Bolenes

# 445

majat m.Gjonkallit e Zeza # # q.Zeze m.Kogit D

331

#

900

14 0

#

0 13 0 0 12 0

11

J 8

m.Kodimes

±

0

Kallarat 400

0

400

800

1,200 Meters

16

“Village to village in Shushica Valley”

17

18

Shushica Valley Trek

“From the Highlands to the Beach“ Kallarat - Pilur

This long and challenging walk traverses the Coastal Mountains and takes us to the Ionian Sea, offering the best views of the coast and the highlands. Alternatively, you can choose to take a taxi transfer to the village of Kuç and walk from there to Kudhës for reaching the coast on an easier trail or you can ask your guide to follow another trail that stays fairly level after passing the burned down part of Kallarat.

From the partisan monument the path first climbs to the ruined old village. Burned down by Greek troops on the brink of World War I, it is an eerie site with panoramic views. A long ascent, partly in the shade, takes us to a series of flat meadows hidden on a plateau. Two groups of shepherds reside here for half the year.

Our effort is rewarded when reaching the highest point at 1400 m above the sea. A place dubbed the Balcony of the Riviera offers a panoramic view from the Greek border and the island of Corfu over most of the Riviera to the coastal town of Himarë. The ridge walk that follows grants views to the often snow-covered Nemërçka range (2482 m) further inland, several highland villages, the rugged Ceraunian Range and the diverse coastline.

TOTAL TIME

TOTAL DISTANCE

TOTAL UPHILL

TOTAL DOWNHILL

7.5H

14.8Km

1250m

850m

14 km

14.6 km

12 km

Distance

10 km

8 km

6 km

4 km

m m m m m m m

0 km

Elevation

1400 1200 1000 800 600 400 209.7

2 km

The trail finally descends to Pilur, a village where you can overnight with one of the local families and enjoy the views of the sea from above. If you prefer, you can ask the locals at the bar near the village’s main square to organize a taxi for taking you to one of the beaches along the coast, or to the center of Himarë.

DIFFICULTY Moderate

# m.Kogit

#

Pajame

#

q.Zeze

D

Kallarat

331

J 8

Sh u

40 0

sh

ica

Bletes 30 0

m.Gjashtës # 414

500

9 00

1400

13 0

0

0 1 00

m.Bogonices # 1672

160 0 1 500

# m.Zogut # m.Kalilodherit 1200 80 0

5 ¬

11 00

m.Shtrunga

# e Bitrit

# m.Nikziut

s

q.Gjonitaves D

go

#

m.Kumjes

or aJ e r faq nd Zig ja e 600 eA a j oit faq

sheshi i vajit

q.Mixores

D

Kokor

aB faqj

640

640

# 119

it una

#

7 00

2 00

#

±

m.Skularit

Kostane 400

0

400

800

1,200 Meters

J 8

Pilur

20

“From the highlands to the beach “

21

Shushica Valley Trek

22

“The Last Beat to the Beach” Pilur - Himarë

Instead of having a transfer organised, walking from Pilur to Himarë is also possible. While the trail is not always visible and easy to walk, the views are open towards the sea all the time and the direction is easy. Along this hike, there is the opportunity to visit an old monastery with beautiful frescos.

From the village’s square take the main road to Himarë, then turn off right on a path that leads to the ruined part of Pilur, which is visible from the road. The initially very distinct trail passes a small church after a while, and, as you walk past the ruined houses on your right side, continues for a few more minutes and before it fades away. The direction towards the pond and the shepherd hut is clearly visible, but it’s advisable to take easy curves on your way down on the loose rocks. Long trousers are recommended because of thorny bushes.

9 km

8 km

7 km

6 km

5 km

4 km

3 km

2 km

m m m m m m m m 1 km

700 600 500 400 300 200 100 0

0 km

Elevation

When you reach the dirt road near the hut, take a left and follow the gentle ascent for approximately one kilometer to reach the monastery, where a nice meadow with great views invites you for a stop. Return on the same dirt road back to the shepherd’s hut and continue going down on this road, all the way until it meets the “Rruga 1 Maji” road in Himarë, which will lead you to the town center.

Distance TOTAL TIME

TOTAL DISTANCE

TOTAL UPHILL

TOTAL DOWNHILL

3H

9Km

100m

800m

DIFFICULTY Moderate

700

600

Kostane

500

40 0

J 8

6 ¬

300

6 ¬

2 00

6 ¬

1 Maji 1 00

Sera k.Cakoit

!

Himarë

0

300

0

300

600

900 Meters

Pilu

24

“The Last Beat to the Beach”

25

From the Albanian Riviera to Labëria Highlands This series of hikes make it possible to walk from the Albanian Riviera towards the highlands of Labëria, visiting characteristic villages along the way. The trek can be finished in Bolenë or can be continued back to the coast by crossing the coastal Ceraunian Mountain range that separates them from the blue waters of the Ionian Sea. A walk from Palasë beach to Himarë, a day hike visiting some of the best beaches in Albanian Riviera is included.

“The Slogans”

26

Lower Qeparo - Upper Qeparo - Kudhës

This hike climbs from Qeparo’s new part on the beach towards the upper village of Old Qeparo, perched on a cliff and overlooking the seemingly endless olive groves. Time seems to stand still in the maze of stone houses and cobbled streets. Afterwards, the hike leads further inland to the village of Kudhës, which takes you back in time and provides a glimpse of the former communist flair, with the lately restored center of the village sporting typical slogans praising Enver Hoxha and the party, a part of propaganda that was present everywhere in Albania during the regime. Grab the chance for joining the locals drinking coffee or homemade raki at the bar of the village.

8 km

5 km

1 km

m m m m m

0 km

Elevation

400 300 200 100 0

3 km

The trailhead for this hike lies along the national road, and is located about 60 m from the junction where the road sign for Kudhës village is. Walking along the road in direction of the center, the trail starts making its way up on a steep cobbled alley to your left, and shortly after turns into a small path leading through the neighbourhood built on the slope of the hill. As you hit the road for Upper Qeparo, you can already enjoy nice views towards the coast. Shortcut the serpentines by following the footpaths

Distance TOTAL TIME

TOTAL DISTANCE

TOTAL UPHILL

TOTAL DOWNHILL

3.5H

7.7Km

450m

200m

DIFFICULTY Moderate

Kudhës

J 8

3 00

# m.Gjorokullit

0 10

9 00 800

700

e a it yk q gr ara 600 rf fa

50 0 0 20

100

hësi K ud

# m.Çukës

# m.Karasit

m.VRRIUT # 547

3 30

fush

Qeparo Fshat

#m.Gjivlashit 593

ae Qep

#m.Korbit

aroit

40 0

J 8

q.Kukumit

D

124

Qeparo Fushë

q.Suqes

D

124

10

0

e Ft

400

0

400

800

1,200 Meters

r

28

“The Slogans”

through the olive plantations. Once you enter the village, take some time to wander through the small alleys, past abandoned and still inhabited houses. At the village square continue on straight and then take a right at the bar, following the unpaved road further inland. Keep right at both the first and second junction, and through olive groves, make your way up to the highest point, where you will find a water source.

The wider gravel road becomes a small path, mostly but not always well visible, that leads away from the coast into the direction of Kudhës, which you can soon catch sight of. After following the path along the slope of the mountain, you start your descent by aiming for the muddy gravel road that runs a few meters below the path, which at this point fades and splits up into several sheep’s trails through thorny shrubs. Follow the road, which will be wide and rocky in some parts, and a small trail in others, until it gently descends to the village of Kudhës and joins a gravel road, which eventually hits the steep cemented main road of the village. Ready yourself for your last uphill before arriving at the center of the village, with it’s large plane tree.

The trip can be continued to the village of Kuç in Labëria highlands (5 h), unless you decide to enjoy the evening with a local family in one of the guesthouses. An option to make this a day hike is returning to Qeparo along the old national road down in the valley (2 h).

29

30

From the Albanian Riviera to Labëria Highlands

32

“Shepherd’s Trail” Kudhës - Kuç

This is one of the shortest walks that make it possible to reach the villages of the Labëria highlands from the villages of the Riviera.

The path connects all the way to Kudhës and travels along many shepherd huts en route. After a while the ridge levels out on a clearing with panoramic views of Kuç, Mt. Cepini and the Ceraunian Range.

From the village’s newly restored square with the big plane tree, continue on the upper road for about 600 m until the asphalt cement ends and the road splits in three directions. Choose the road in the middle, and continue straight on a well-trodden path ascending very gently. Afterwards the path continues fairly level. There are alternating clear segments with views and covered parts. Plenty of water sources can be found along the trail, and the first one of them, close to a big tree, makes for a good stopping point for a picnic. The trail continues clearly visible and passes several shepherd’s huts before it takes you by some ruins of an old village. Afterwards, it leads down to the river on a partly rocky and muddy donkey path that descends steeply. Once you reach the river bed, you can either follow it to reach the road that leads to Kuç or cross the river to take the path that ascends closer to the village’s center.

There are some bars along the way from Kuç’s Buronja neighbourhood to the village square, where you can have a drink and chat with the villagers.

Distance TOTAL TIME

TOTAL DISTANCE

TOTAL UPHILL

TOTAL DOWNHILL

5H

12.6Km

400m

300m

12 km

8 km

4 km

2 km

m m m m m 0 km

Elevation

600 500 400 300 200

DIFFICULTY Moderate

Grabova Hekal

Sh us hi c

Fushe Brati

a

Kuç J

8

#m.Gunese 542

q.Mbretes D

640

q.Groshezit

D

616

q.Shkalles

D

2 ¬

640

arat e gjata

# m.Lepjetes 1199

9 00

#m.Çipit

Bodovishta

00 10

400

1 100

q.Kishes

fusha e Vanovës

616

80 0

500

#

# 1397

600

# m.Radulit#

fusha e Vumlosë

m.Pinaçes

30 0

# m.Kolezës 20

0.5 0.25 0

# 00 13

# m.Gones

m.Klushit # 703

00 12

700

Kudhësi

D

0.5

1

1.5

0

1

J 8

Kudhës

34

“Shepherd’s Trail”

35

36

From the Albanian Riviera to Labëria Highlands

“The Partisans’ Trail” Kuç - Bolenë

This hike connects villages and shepherd huts between Kuç and Bolenë on a trail that has lost its importance after the road along the valley was built. Both villages have war monuments not only in their centers but along the walking path as well.

Take the main road towards Kallarat from the center of Kuç and once you pass the Buronjë neighbourhood of the village, leave the main road by turning right at the two monuments. Cross the river using the small footbridge and continue along the dirt road that climbs up in between the houses. Take a right at the erosion and leave the next monument to your right. Afterwards, the trail passes a dried up stream leaving another monument on the right and a ruined house on your left. Turn left at the next junction following a path that leads down, crosses the dried up stream and climbs up again for about 60 m, before continuing fairly level. Alternatively, you can chose the upper trail which leads along some shepherds huts, one before crossing the stream and one after the stream. While the upper trail is not very clear, it gives the opportunity to visit the huts and the hospitable shepherds who happily invite hikers in.

TOTAL TIME

TOTAL DISTANCE

TOTAL UPHILL

TOTAL DOWNHILL

7.3H

11.7Km

450m

850m

11.7 km

Distance

10 km

8 km

6 km

2 km

m m m m m m

0 km

Elevation

673.1 600 550 500 450 414.9

4 km

After approximately 1.5 km the trail reaches a water source where you should continue on the upper trail, leaving the shepherd huts to your left. The trail goes on fairly level through woods and some clearing parts that offer very good views towards the valley and the Ceraunian Range. Soon after the trail becomes a dirt road which descends to the village of Bolenë. From the village to the main road in the valley, the road is asphalted.

DIFFICULTY Moderate

Bolenë

# #

m.Begos

m.Çipini Bolemës

140 0

#

#

m.Kodimes

m.Spilarit

fus ha

eG jo r m it Fusha e Gjormit

0

00

1

i pl

lajë

40 0

Pajame

#

50

16

pyl li

m.Pleskovices # 1733 1 50 0

00

s lu g je ve

12

0

00

Kunjova

m.Mullirit

1300

Bletes

110 0

Zelishta

30 0

9 00 800

1 ¬

Sheshi i Rrethit

600

Millokopi

Lumas

#

m.Mehmetit

# #

m.Helliut

m.Valthit

Rreza-Borshe

Grabova

Hekal

700

Fushe Brati

±

ica Shush m.Gunese

# 542 0.5 0.25 0

0.5

1

1.5 Km

Kuç

J 8

38

“The Partisans’ Trail”

39

From the Albanian Riviera to Labëria Highlands

40

“Across the Mountain on Shepherd’s Trails” Vranisht - Ilias

This trail takes you from the highlands to the coast by crossing the ridge of Mt. Çika. It follows the route of the shepherds from Vranisht, who take their herds up in the mountains to a summer pasture called Valja e Bufit (1500 m) for several months, as soon as it’s clear of snow. The route then descends towards the coast with great views following another shepherds’ path. This is the longest way to cross from the highlands to the coast with a long steep descent of 1200 m.

Starting from the center of the village, cross the bridge and follow the route up with the stream on your left. After about 500 m the trail crosses the dried up stream and follows the ascent with the river bed below, on your right.

TOTAL TIME

TOTAL DISTANCE

TOTAL UPHILL

TOTAL DOWNHILL

7.3H

13.5Km

1300m

1300m

13.44 km

Distance

12 km

10 km

8 km

6 km

4 km

m m m m m

0 km

Elevation

1526 1200 800 400 55.4

2 km

After a while the trail ascends steeply on the riverbed, passes a water source and continues until the rocky riverbed reaches the high meadows where the first shepherd hut appears. Keep climbing up on the steep meadow and you eventually arrive at a large flat meadow, Valja e Bufit, where a couple of shepherd huts are located. The shepherds reside here from May until November. Don’t hesitate to take the opportunity to make contact with them, they are very friendly and happy to make a coffee for visitors. While you might expect a water source here, the closest one is about an hour away, in the direction of Valja e Bogonicës.

DIFFICULTY Moderate

Vranisht J 8

# 800

1200

9 00

pylli i lipës 1100

m.Vali

1 800

#i Bufit

100 0

M A L E T

E

1700

13 00

ME

1600

SO

FIJ S E

#m.Mesimerit 1695

1 400

ko ku nt rr av . e

s

1 5 00

fa q ja 700

m.Pandelemonit # 806

fa q

ja

e

Dh im

ku sh it

8 ¬

All om an it

q.Lugat Panjes

D 5 00

600

331

q.Zgates D

331

# 1095

g.Zota

e a qj it fa rav Ka

!

4 00

±

# m.Melishtit

Ilias 300

200

0.5

0

0.5

1

1.5 Km

Vuno J 8

42

“Across The Mountain on Shepherd’s Trails”

Carrying on with the hike, take a short ascent (20 m) in southern direction. The trail then starts the descent, initially south, before it zigzags southeast. Along the way there is yet another shepherd hut. Continue the zigzag descent after the hut and follow the trail as it turns left (approx 960 m altitude) and climbs for about 40 meters, traversing from the current plain to a next one. The walk goes on to lead down steeply, with good views towards the sea until it reaches the monastery. From the monastery a dirt road leads you to the village of Ilias.

43

From the Albanian Riviera to Labëria Highlands

44

“Walk and Swim”

Dhërmi - Gjipe - Jalë - Livadh - Himarë

This easy but long walk along the shore will give you the opportunity to see some of the best parts of the Albanian Riviera and swim in its deep blue waters. Accommodation and bars can be found along the hike, but most of them will be closed if you walk in the off season, i.e. before June or after mid September.

The hike might start from Dhërmi beach or even further to the north from Palasë beach, the first beach after Llogara Pass. From Palasë beach, the walk follows the shore, passing boulders and nice small bays. The first big beach after Palasë is Drymades and after passing some more boulders you arrive at Dhërmi beach.

Continuing along the shore, at the end of Dhërmi beach, the trail ascends through shrubs, climbing the hill where the monastery of St. Theodor is located. From here, you continue onwards to an unpaved open space, where during the season beachgoers will park their cars, and then take a right onto a dirt road that takes you to Gjipe beach, one of the most beautiful beaches of the Albanian Riviera. Take the chance to explore the oasis-like canyon that extends inland, with its stream and small waterfalls that carry water in spring and early summer.

The walk continues south on a trail that climbs the hill and travels parallel with the shore. Some parts of the trail from Gjipe to Jalë tend to be overgrown, hence it’s recommended to come prepared with long trousers and sleeves. When you hit the asphalt in Jalë, you can take the stairs that belong to a resort complex down to arrive at the beach.

TOTAL TIME

TOTAL DISTANCE

TOTAL UPHILL

TOTAL DOWNHILL

6H

15.1Km

450m

430m

15 km

14 km

12 km

Distance

10 km

8 km

6 km

4 km

2 km

0 km

Elevation

160 m 140 m 120 m 100 m 80 m 60 m 40 m 20 m

DIFFICULTY Moderate

#

Dhërmi

# 80

faq

ja e

fusha e Llongos

Ka rav it

J 8

q fa ja e n Fo la el s

221

3

4 00

00

200

500

fus

70

s faq ! vidho no faqja e Ka

k.Fanellos

ha o it un eV

ja e Ndërmajës

4 ¬

Ilias

#

m.Melishti

JVuno 8

6 00

0

kepi Lerës

Jali

#

m.Skularit

# 517

1 00

±

Kostane

0.5

0

0.5

1

1.5 Km

Himarë

46

“Walk and Swim”

In low season the resort might be closed and you will need to walk around the on asphalt to get to the beach. Continue the walk to the end of the beach and then take the dirt road which starts to gently ascend to about 20 m altitude, and then descends again for about half an hour to a small beautiful bay. Continue on the dirt road and you will arrive at Livadhi beach that already belongs to the town of Himarë. From here it is possible to either take the asphalt road to Himarë or walk to the end of the beach and take the trail uphill that joins a dirt road very soon. The dirt road ascends through olive grows initially north and then east towards the stadium of Himarë. From here, it takes just a few more minutes to reach the town center and esplanade.

47

Hikes in Llogara National Park

48

“When Mountains End in the Deep Blue Sea” Llogara - Qafa e Thellë - Llogara

This is a short and one of the most beautiful hikes in Llogara National Park. The ascent travels through the dense forest of the national park to a saddle on the Karaburun Peninsula (1.200m).

Here the western slopes plunge steeply into the deep blue Ionian Sea. Expect more panoramic views of Vlorë, the coast’s highest summit Mt. Çika and the rugged shore of the Albanian Riviera during the walk on the peninsula’s spine. The walk finishes at the highest part of the Llogara Pass, where Caesar crossed with his army two millennia ago.

The hike starts at 820 m altitude. At the moment there isn’t a trailhead sign. Follow the road for about 200 m uphill from Hotel Alpin and take a right at the trailhead next to Hamiti Hotel. The initially partly paved, but even otherwise well-trodden and clearly visible trail ascends steeply through the woods. As the lush, fairytale-like pine forest clears, the path continues along rockier terrain and passes through a small shepherd’s settlement shortly before it arrives at Qafa e Thellë pass (1215 m), rewarding you with views of the open sea.

TOTAL TIME

TOTAL DISTANCE

TOTAL UPHILL

4.5H

11Km

625m

TOTAL DOWNHILL 400m

12 km

10 km

Distance

8 km

6 km

4 km

m m m m m m m

2 km

1444 1300 1200 1100 1000 900 813.3

0 km

Elevation

From the pass, take the initially trailless ascent on the left side and as you keep following the ridge, aiming for the radio transmission towers, the trail soon becomes clearer. After while the path becomes a gravel road, which passes the radio towers and winds down all the way to the asphalted national road, almost the highest point of Llogara pass. There are a few restaurant right at the pass where you can reward yourself with a cold drink and more stunning views. There is no public transport to return to the starting point, but your accommodation can arrange a taxi for you.

DIFFICULTY Moderate

#

ja faq

100

m.Bredhit

0

q.Thelle

e

1100

D

i qir vo ka Ka

679

12 00

0 130

faq

ja e

t

Gj ipo gë s

900

ço s

sha lc e ve

iG jin

pyl li i

br eg u

800

m.Gjipalit

# 1449 ush njës

1¬0

m.Gjikë Spiros

i pylli

fush a

eR

#

asit breg

m.Thanasit

eQ era ës sh

600

15 00 1600

q.Llogarase D

400

1700

679

hit htit të Bre d

ja faq

f Pan aqja e dal eos

#

1800 1900

J 8 14 00

q fa 0

nit

300

700

ja Ko

500

e

os

ja

.

je

±

k

r ur

fa

300

600

900 Meters

# 201

50

“When Mountains End in The Deep Blue Sea”

51

Hikes in Llogara National Park

52

“The Coastal Ridge Traverse”

Llogara - Dhjopuri Saddle - Mt. Qorre - Mt. Çika - Valja e Bufit - Pilur

The wildest and most demanding trek of the region travels on the crest above the coast and climbs the highest peak of the Albanian Riviera, Maja e Çikës (Mt. Çika, 2044 m). The hike can be walked in two or three days and having a tent for overnights is necessary.

If you prefer not to camp, you can shorten the trail according to your needs to make it a day hike by turning around either at Dhjopuri Saddle (8 km, 600 m, 4 hours), the peak of Mt. Qorre (7 km, 1000 m, 6.5 hours) or at the peak of Mt. Çika (14.5 km, 1400 m, 10.5 hours).

TOTAL TIME

TOTAL DISTANCE

TOTAL UPHILL

TOTAL DOWNHILL

12H

27.3Km

1350m

1550m

27 km

Distance

25 km

20 km

15 km

10 km

m m m m m m m 5 km

2042 1800 1600 1400 1200 1000 800

0 km

Elevation

If you choose to walk the entire traverse, be aware that there is only one water source along the mountain crest, which can be accessed either on the second day, or at the beginning of the third day, depending on how you split up the different parts of the hike. While the direction is clear most of the time, the trail is not always visible and the weather can change very quickly. A GPS device or a local guide is strongly recommended if you plan the coastal mountain traverse. Furthermore, it is recommended to check the weather forecast for wind conditions around the summit. Even at the Llogara Pass, at only half the elevation of the peaks, winds can be fierce, while down at the coast you would be in a sweat just lying on the beach. Keep in mind that the weather can change rapidly in the coastal mountains, and you should start early, planing to return from the mountain around midday.

DIFFICULTY Moderate

D

m.Qarres

q.Llogarase 679

# 2018

J 8

#

Ko qj ja a e ni t

m.Plepit

m.Vallanderit

faqja e Pjeri vallos

tës lish a r D

ja e faq

avit Kar

4 00

!

q.Lugat Panjes

D

s fu ha

0

e

#

e faqja ajës Ndërm

7 ¬

00

6

00

#

5

m.Ksillorakut

m.Bogonices

#

m.Zogut

# 1672

1

m.Kumjes

Jali

faq # ja eA nd rea m.Skularit

# 517

Jo r gos

# i hi

es sh

1 00

m.Shtrunga e Bitrit m.Kalilodherit

#

Kokor

200

jit va

Kostane

q.Mixores

1 Maji 3 Km

640

m.Lepjetes

# 1199

#

m.Çipit

q.Shkalles D

2

JPilur 8

m.Nikziut

# 640 q.Gjonitaves D

qja ait n

!

±

1

fa

D

Bu

Himarë k.Cakoit

1kepi 0 Masunit

m.Melishtit

# 1095

g.Zotajt

00

90 0

331

7

it no Vu

s

8

m.Melishtit !

on o

#

Vuno J

D

h avid

221

faqja e Dhimkus hit

0

300

faqja Allomanit

Ilias

m.Mesimerit

10

fusha e Pjerivallos

faq ja e

ës

J

00

k.Fanellos

kepi Lerës

i lip

FI

eK

s

J 8

# 1695

00 15

ell a

ES

12

ja faq

Fo n

Vranisht li pyl

0 16

0

140 0

E SO

m.Pandelemonit 1 30

0

e

800

1 70 0

kurr. kontaves

# 806

0

m.Vali i Bufit

MALET E M

#

m.Fjerit

ut

#

m.Kutullit

#

1 00

m.Saranës

shk i du

m.Çikes

dhjes

#

Kondaqi

J 8

ja

00

# 2045

Gjolek

Dhërmi

fa q

li pylli a

Palasë

19

1

0

80

li pyl

ja faq de De

ku r

r. f

a je

os

# fa

640

54

“The Coastal Ridge Traverse�

After the rocky descend, the trail continues to gently go down in open meadows and passes a pond before arriving at the big meadow of Valja e Bufit (1500 m). There are a couple of shepherd huts on this high plain, inhabited seasonally by shepherds who stay here with their livestock from May to November. This makes another good spot to camp after a long day.

The next day leads along the western side of the ridge to the only water source of the mountain and then to another big elevated plain, Valja e BogonicĂŤs (1250 m), another savanna-like meadow hidden in the mountains. From here the trail continues along the western side of the ridge, climbing for about 200 m, passes a pond close to the pass and descends to Valja e Mesit (1330 m), a smaller meadow with a shepherd hut. Continue the ascend after the hut (1400 m) and after this point the hike starts the descend to the village of Pilur.

55

56

Guest House Information

Terbaรง Mehmet Bojkoj: 0692689809 Maksin Mehmetaj: 069 3023523 Kostandin Gjinaj: 068 34 25077 Adnan Bajramaj: 068 25 32 574 Lefter Fatbardha Kapo: 069 43 98457 Vranisht Teki Kanani: 068 27 91524 Bastri Limoj: 068 27 95752 Serian Hasanaj: 069 95 63 031 Gjolek Mataj: 068 20 02 303 Pajtim Shkuri: 0682590874 Lavdie Veizaj: 0697403908 Faut Labaj: 0682568389 Ferdi Sino: 0683572509 Karafil Limaj: 0682927705 Muhamet Tartari: 0672506454 Kallarat Bejo Xhaferraj: 0683103392 Blerim Xhaferraj: 0682738865 Ergest Hoxhaj: 0686933348 Agim & Elisabeta Lamaj: 0685742562 Kuc Gramoz Balilaj: 0682912362 Sabri Balilaj: 0682827577 Xhezo Balili: 0693751452 Vuno Vasil Collalli: 0692073113

57

Dukat Fshat Sehit Behluli: 0695669742 Musah Bodaj: 0699350943 Osman Lako: 0693711578 Fazli Merkohitaj: 0682258272 Katina Ibro: 0694708091 Dhermi Fshat Bledi Elmazi: 0692648035 Kozma Kosani: 0692320661 Andrea Stramarku: 0695371558 Thoma Jonila: 068 39 54 318 Qeparo Fshat Theodhori Foto: 069 58 25 305 Jorgo Pali: 069 72 23 416 Borsh Bashkim Mati: 069 26 70 549 Jani Mici: 069 20 61 879 Kudhes Janaq Tata: 0686262596 Viktor Çani: 0694648206 Drita Çani: 0685041730 Pilur Jorgo Bala: 0692661150 Pavllo Bala: 0697773441 Jani Kongjini+ Andon: 0695792552 Kiço Knogjini: 0699578283 Kiço Kreku: 0697933811 Vasil Lapa: 0692141076 Kristo Cipa: 0692610859

58

Imprint

59

Published by the Deutsche Gesellschaft für Internationale Zusammenarbeit (GIZ) GmbH Registered offices Bonn and Eschborn, Germany ‘Integrated Sustainable Development of the Southern Coastal Region‘ Rr. “Skenderbej” 21/1 T +355 42 230 414 https://www.giz.de/en/worldwide/294.html.

February 2016 Identification of the trails Endrit Shima, Zbulo! - Discover Albania www.zbulo.org Text Endrit Shima Editing Ulrike Schilling Design and layout Enid Mero Printed by Gent Grafik Address: L.Ali Demi, Rr. Idriz Dollaku., Tiranë – Albania www.gentgrafik.al Photo credits Armand Habazaj and Endrit Shima Copyright with GIZ GIZ is responsible for the content of this publication.

On behalf of the German Federal Ministry for Economic Cooperation and Development (BMZ) Alternatively: German Federal Foreign Office To get more information about Albania Please visit: www.albania.al

Download GPS tracks of this publication at endritstrail.com/south