S/S 2023
IN SEASON DENIM & TRIMS LOOK BOOK
CONTENTS FA B R I C S / 4 TRIMS / 42 TRENDS / 46
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BACK TO THE FUTURE On the surface, the denim category looks much like it did on the cusp of the new millennium. Young consumers are donning wideleg and low-rise jeans, not to mention styles splashed with prints, colors and all manner of bold ornamentation, while their more mature counterparts are slipping into bootcut, slim and straight fits in classic washes. After a decade of skinny jeans reigning as the de facto fit for women, men and children of all ages, a generational divide is splintering the jeans market yet again. But with so much attention focused on which styles Gen Z deems “cheugy,” it’s easy to overlook the ways jeans have morphed into entirely new product in the two decades since the Y2K era. With mills investing in on-site cotton recycling systems, wastewater treatment and recycling plants, and developing their own indigo solutions to manage quality and sidestep worsening supply chain obstacles, the denim sector is revealing itself to be a technically complex problemsolver. Add science-based sustainability
targets, certification requirements and the watchful eye of conscious consumers, and producing and selling 5-pocket blue jeans is now as nuanced as the multifaceted automotive and food industries. When Levi Strauss CEO Chip Bergh declared in April that denim is entering a “new cycle,” the executive confirmed what many in the supply chain have been preparing for: a change in narrative that would step away from activewear-chasing product stories built on shaping and performance and toward a new ideology that prized variety, versatility, authenticity and responsible design. Whether Gen Z’s nostalgic aesthetic or a simple desire for comfort sparked this next chapter, denim’s new cycle presents unlimited opportunities for brands to reclaim the garment’s roots—albeit with more sustainable processes and practices. This Spring/Summer 2023 In Season look book made possible with the support of Cotton Incorporated will help arm designers with the fabric, trims and trend insight they need to know to successfully navigate this exciting time.
SPAIN
TEJIDOS ROYO
WWW.TEJIDOSROYO.COM
Key fibers: Recycled cotton, lyocell, Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) cotton On minimizing the mill’s impact on climate change: We’re aware of the impact the textile industry has on the world. For this reason, we contribute to the sustainability of the planet through innovative, ecological and sustainable industrial processes. We reduce emissions of vapors and gases toxic to the environment in fabric manufacturing. Our cogeneration plant simultaneously produces electricity and heat for various applications to attain optimum efficiency and minimum consumption of primary fuel. All our centers are in Valencia, which allow us to manufacture and control processes without the need for international travel, thus reducing CO2. We use post-industrial and post-consumer waste to create high-quality new fabrics. We are close to reaching our goal of offering 100 percent recycled fabrics. All the waste from our plants is sorted for correct treatment so that it does not end up in landfills and can be reused. On indigo: Tejidos Royo is a pioneer in the development of an authentic revolution: Dry Indigo. We have managed to eliminate water—the essential raw material—from the indigo dyeing process by using foam for its application. By using zero water in the process, zero wastewater is discharged into the environment. Additionally, Dry Indigo reduces energy use by 65 percent and chemical use by 89 percent. The innovation is audited and certified by AITEX (Textile Industry Research Association) and saves both time and manufacturing costs. On targeting Gen Z: The fashion trends of Gen Z show that they are the most disruptive age group in history. The cohort is a friend to “different” and they set their own limits and have created their own aesthetic language without labels. They choose clothes committed to social and environmental sustainability, along with a gender-neutral and rebellious style. They bet on trendy, comfortable, and sustainable fabrics, giving their looks a retro touch. These consumers love recycled denim and relaxed silhouettes, punk aesthetics, bright colors and psychedelic prints, all shared with a nod to the ’60s and ’70s.
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SUSTAINABLE UNISEX OPTIMISTIC
BLUE DIAMOND CHINA houseofgold.la
Key fibers: We are seeing crazy fluctuating prices for cotton. It is changing day to day. We have been so cotton-dependent, but our new collection focuses on natural cotton alternatives, like Tencel, hemp and recycled cotton. On minimizing the mill’s impact on climate change: Our focus is to reduce water consumption, wastewater, chemicals and energy. We’ve implemented green liquid indigo dyes that used less chemicals. We used our internal waste to recycle and reuse cotton fibers, and we are looking into sourcing more post-industrial recycled cotton. We are also focusing our natural fiber selections to other cotton alternatives that require less water and resources to cultivate and yield. We are working on a new innovative green mill to be powered by renewable energy. On indigo: Though our older running core collections are still dyed with conventional indigo, we use Smart Indigo as our liquid indigo source. Smart Indigo is comprised of indigo dye, water, caustic soda and electricity. There are no other harmful chemicals like petroleum or formaldehyde. It is the greenest, cleanest liquid dye on the market, and we hope there will be more options for clean indigo dyes. We also have Lenzing’s Tencel Modal with Indigo Technology in our line. The fiber is dyed with indigo at the fiber level, which eliminates the indigo rope dyeing process from our production line, greatly reducing water, indigo dye, energy consumption/waste. On targeting Gen Z: Gen Z consumers are concerned about the environment and we applaud them for that. It’s about time executives started to pay attention to their voices. Climate Change is real. The more educated everyone is, the easier and more economic/commercial it will be for our industry to push sustainable products to market.
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PURPOSEFUL COTTON-LESS DURABLE
BOSSA TURKEY bossa.com.tr Key fibers: Hemp, soybean, Repreve, Naia, CiClo, Smartcel, Refibra, recycled polyester, recycled elastane, recycled cotton On minimizing the mill’s impact on climate change: Blending recycled cotton with virgin cotton is important, but it is not easy. We made investments for producing high-quality recycled denims. We are developing a zero-waste life cycle to close the loop. Since 2019 we have used all our textile waste in our blends. We have also adopted various procedures aimed at reducing our environmental impact, including energy efficiency, water saving, process engineering, collaboration, certification and ecological dyeing. On indigo: [We are working] toward zero water with Saveblue and Saveblue+ concepts. Saveblue uses 85 percent less water compared to conventional dyeing. Saveblue+ has the same savings and boasts a 71 percent water saving in the finishing process. All the values of the savings were measured and reported by Çukurova University in Turkey. Additionally, to reduce the environmental impact of garment finishing, Bossa and Strom collaborated to develop the ECO3 concept. This concept includes sustainable washing technology by Strom and fabrics by Bossa made specially for this technology. The fabrics for sustainable washing technology are ozone- and laser-friendly. On targeting Gen Z: Gen Z consumers are more conscious and investigative in the purchases they make. They want transparency and traceability is key to avoiding false statements. Bossa partners with FibreTrace to provide trust, transparency and traceability in the industry. We are also using life cycle assessments (LCA) to analyze the [inputs] associated with the entire life cycle of a product or a service, usually from cradle to grave.
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REBIRTH FUTURE HEALING NOMADIC SOUL
ISKO TURKEY iskodenim.com Key fibers: Pre-consumer and post-consumer recycled cotton and recycled polyester On minimizing the mill’s impact on climate change: The R-Two innovation is a result of Isko’s ‘Responsible Innovation’ approach that incorporates sustainability and ethics from the ground up. R-Two embeds material circularity into the production process to design waste out of the system and minimize impact at scale. In other words, it effectively helps to decrease the usage of raw materials and improves sourcing efficiency. It also reduces its impact through collaborations, including a recent partnership with the Ellen MacArthur Foundation’s Jeans Redesign project, which encourages and guides the denim industry to transform the way jeans are made and move towards a circular economy for fashion. Isko is also fully aligned with the UN Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) and strives to close the loop with circularity solutions devised for all types of textile waste, ensuring the longevity of product life.
COMFORTABLE RESPONSIBLE VERSATILE
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On indigo: The market certainly provides many takes on indigo shades. Therefore, you can find literally any type of indigo color, from light to dark shades and green to red casts. But at the end of the day, it is important to look at the big picture and understand that innovating indigo dyeing is about more than just colors and shades—it’s about the sustainable approach. So, when it comes to indigo dyeing, Isko always aim to reduce the water used. On the other hand, the mill’s innovation focus for indigo is on creating colors that can be combined with sustainable laundry processes, such as laser and ozone, and provide excellent results. On targeting Gen Z: Isko is addressing some important Gen Z trends such as trans-seasonal collections and more inclusive sizing by providing fabrics that transition easily from one season to another and that are suitable for designing with a one-sizefits-all philosophy. Some key fabrics include Isko Reform, which offers an instant one size smaller look through its extra holding power. Isko Blue Skin provides 360-degree freedom of movement and a unique 3D shaping that follows the silhouette. Isko Xmen’s is designed with an inner stretch technology that provides an elasticity level between 30-35 percent. These innovations rely on technologies that help minimize size categories and reduce the rate of online apparel returns because of fit.
CONE DENIM MEXICO + CHINA www.conedenim.com Key fibers: Hemp, Refibra, Lycra EcoMade, Tencel Modal with Indigo Color Technology On minimizing the mill’s impact on climate change: Cone Denim and parent company Elevate Textiles are committed to reductions through our own goals and through our participation in the UN’s Fashion Industry Charter for Climate Action, an industry-wide commitment to set a decarbonization pathway for the fashion industry in line with keeping global warming below 1.5 degrees, drawing on methodologies from the Science Based Targets Initiative (SBTi). Cone Denim and Elevate have recently had their greenhouse gas (GHG) reduction targets validated by SBTi, and are now on track to reach an interim target of 46.2 percent absolute Scope 1 and 2 GHG emissions reduction by 2030 against a 2019 baseline. Elevate has also set a long-term target to reach net-zero emissions by no later than 2050. Cone Denim has invested in cogeneration technology for generated electricity and steam, new finishing technologies that reduce water and energy use, and will continue to invest in energy efficiency projects and renewable energy in order to meet the targets that have been set. On indigo: This season we are promoting bio-based dyes with a new collection of Natural Indigo fabrics that use 100 percent USDA bio-based plant indigo grown in Stony Creek Colors. We are very excited about being a key partner in Lenzing’s new Tencel Modal with Indigo Color Technology. This fiber-dyed indigo innovation eliminates the need for a dye process and incorporates indigo pigment into Tencel modal fibers creating a unique bright casted indigo shade. We’ve also partnered with a yarn producer who converts our indigo and black dye waste to create a new yarn that imparts the color into the fabric. This approach removes the need for the dyeing process and saves 64 percent water. On targeting Gen Z: Gen Z has pushed the fashion industry to create a more connected and responsible product. We understand the importance of delivering product that speaks to Gen Z. Essential elements include where raw materials are sourced and how they are made, and if it’s made by companies with leadership that is authentic in what they do and report. Many of these characteristics align with the way Cone Denim has been doing business and developing products for decades. Authenticity, transparency and sustainability are key pillars for the company.
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ATTAINABLE SUSTAINABILITY RETRO TEXTURED LIFESTYLE STRETCH
GLOBAL DENIM
MEXICO globaldenim.com.mx Key fibers: Pre-consumer recycled cotton, cotton, Lycra, Lycra T400, hemp and Tencel On minimizing the mill’s impact on climate change: We have updated our production and finishing machinery to newer, more innovative models that require less energy and water for production, not to mention we are using all energy from renewable resources. We just acquired an extension to our water treatment plant that will help us save more water, use less chemicals and make our use of them circular by allowing us to reuse them. Additionally, we have in place our Ecoloop program which permits us to minimize waste and reuse our pre-consumer waste and postindustrial waste and transform it into new yarn that we are adding to our fabrics to work towards a circular economy. Finally, we have set work in motion to acquire several certifications in the next year that will allow us greater traceability and transparency, plus show us the best way to reduce our impact. On indigo: We use one of the most awarded and clean prereduced indigo dyes in the industry. Our Ecolojean program, which has zero water discharging to the water treatment plant, has excellent efficiency, rub fastness, stability, less color variation and gives a better wash down effect. It also requires less energy and dye consumption and a smaller CO2 footprint. We are working towards a new concept which will include bringing the zero-water discharge to the finishing stage, resulting in a double zero water revolutionary technique. On targeting Gen Z: Gen Z consumers are more aware of what their clothes are made of. Our Circl collection offers fabrics with recycled cotton yarn blends made at our new recycled cotton facility and Tencel for added strength and softness. We offer rigid and comfort stretch fabrics, undyed versions that showcase the natural bluish gray color, as well as overdyed and indigo option. A new group, Supreme, is our most super stretch fabrics to date, having almost 100 percent stretchability and amazing recovery. Given the rise of online shopping and returns, sizing is a great issue for brands. This fabric intends to eliminate that struggle by having so much stretch that it can adapt to many sizes. products to market.
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ARTISTIC FABRIC MILLS PAKISTAN www.artisticfabricmills.com
Key fibers: Post-industrial waste, Tencel, Canopy-certified viscose, hemp and Repreve On minimizing the mill’s impact on climate change: With the adverse effects of climate change already apparent around the world, AFM is working harder than before to do our part in creating responsible denim. Our current calculations confirm that we have reduced our carbon emissions by 27 percent across the board. This figure is based on multiple steps we have taken across several areas to reduce our impact. This includes conserving energy and reengineering the garment drying process to recycle hot air, utilizing 1000 kw of solar energy, installing energy-efficient boilers and chillers, installing heat recovery boilers and using LED lights. Most importantly, we’ve moved the needle through our sustainable products and technologies such as our range of O2 Tech and O3 Tech fabrics that reduce the use of water and energy in fabric dyeing, finishing and garment laundry. On indigo: AFM’s patent-pending proprietary technology, IndiLoop, is the biggest breakthrough we have ever had in recycling indigo dyes and it makes us the only denim supplier to not use any new indigo in the dyeing process. Our research and development team has been working to revolutionize indigo dyeing, and the result is 100 percent recycled and waste indigo that’s reimagined and repurposed to create beautiful light shades of indigo. On targeting Gen Z: Gen Z consumers are asking the right questions when it comes to transparency and what goes into the products they are wearing. We find that retailers catering to their demands are consistently pushing for higher levels of recycled content and sustainable fibers while keeping the aesthetic authentic and comfortable. Several of our fabrics fit these trends including ’90s and vintage-inspired fabrics made with pre-consumer recycled cotton fibers. Our Undone collection is another great fit for this market as it features zero dyeing. We achieve this by recycling blue cotton waste at our cotton recycling plant and weaving new fabrics from the naturally colored recycled fibers. The result is subtle baby blue shades heavily in demand by Gen Z consumers. 16
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RETHINK RENEW RESPONSIBLE
NAVEENA DENIM MILLS PAKISTAN naveenadenimmills.com
Key fibers: Tencel, Lycra T400, CiClo, Roica, hemp, Lycra EcoMade, Thermolite, Coolmax, pre-consumer and post-consumer recycled cotton, organic cotton, modal and Refibra On minimizing the mill’s impact on climate change: We recently invested in a new water recycling plant—targeting recycling 93 percent of water by 2023. We have also put in place a new SCADA control system, allowing us to monitor how much steam, water and chemicals are being consumed in real time. Using this system, we have been able to reduce our water consumption and electricity consumption by 30 percent. Our entirely replaced weaving looms also brought our energy consumption down by 20 percent in comparison to air-jet looms. On indigo: Our Aqualter processes, which is a part of our Holistic Denim line, best represent our innovative approach to indigo dyeing and lowering our impact. With Aqualter, we use about 70-80 percent less water. Thanks to a special chemical we use in the Aqualter process, we provide a better dyeing penetration and fixation. Consequently, we avoid extra washings made to get rid of unfixed dyes and chemicals in conventional dyeing.
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On targeting Gen Z: Gen Z’s empathy, awareness and fluidity are transforming ‘business as usual.’ Gen Z consumers are inspired by sustainability, self-expression, and comfort. In this regard, seasonless, low-impact, functional, comfortable, smart fabrics are on the rise. The pandemic shed light on an already existing trend towards more functional athleisure wear. We also witness a trend from skinny jeans to wider legs and tapered ankles, although the skinnies are still a classic.
SOORTY PAKISTAN soorty.com
Key fibers: Pre-consumer and post-consumer recycled cotton, organic cotton, Refibra, Circulose, Tencel and EcoVero On minimizing the mill’s impact on climate change: We believe sustainable denim needs to be manufactured at scale and we’re striving to do just that. We aim to be the planet’s most responsible denim and garment producer and this means integrating climate consciousness within all our day-to-day activities, production methods and investments. We realize the climate emergency has both environmental and social layers; hence everything involved in our core business is designed for water and energy efficiency, fewer chemicals, and the reuse and repurpose of resources. We also believe in the power of design for purpose and sharing information. That’s why we’re heavily investing in our communication platform, Future Possibilities. We continuously seek new partnerships as we see a collective effort can more quickly bring environmental and social change for the better.
HERITAGE SIZE INCLUSIVITY RESPONSIBLE DENIM 20
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On indigo: We have recently invested in a Smart Indigo dyeing setup to replace the use of heavy chemicals with electrochemistry, meaning the wastewater discharged does not contain the alarming chemicals that are cautionary for the environment. We’ve also invested in producing our own smart liquid indigo instead of outsourcing it. Soorty’s in-house produced liquid indigo is granted an Eco Passport by OEKO-TEX. This certification assures and verifies that the indigo has no harmful effect on societal and environmental health. Being able to conduct the entire process under one roof increases efficiency and productivity and lowers greenhouse gas emissions, since it means we no longer need to transport the dyestuff. On targeting Gen Z: Our third seasonless collection, called The Clothes You Live In, is divided into two categories, The New Curators and Heritage 3.0, each with multiple concepts that address the demands of Gen Z. The New Curators group is about designing your own world with clothing. It’s about being fun, experimental and expressive, while considering quality and longevity. Heritage 3.0 revisits nostalgic denim with today’s technologies and mindset.
CALIK DENIM TURKEY www.calikdenim.com Key fibers: Organic and recycled cotton, hemp and Tencel On minimizing the mill’s impact on climate change: With the sustainability strategy ‘Passion for Denim, Passion for Life,’ we have a sustainable business model and turn global risks into opportunities. While the strategy itself aims to make a positive impact that creates a better life, we are devoted to becoming the sustainability actor in denim that leads this change. Calik focuses on three main pillars to achieve this purpose: leading innovative products, creating a positive impact for stakeholders and reducing impact on the environment. We are proud to say that we are consistently working towards more eco-friendly and sustainable fabric production. On indigo: With our Dyepro technology, we are reducing energy and chemical consumption, eliminating water usage during the dyeing process and, overall, minimizing our carbon footprint. Dyepro is smart, efficient and green. For each different dye color, we have designated stocking containers. This means that once we have completed a dyeing process, we put the dyestuff in a stocking system to reuse it again. We have also invested in a new machinery that enables more effective penetration of the dyestuff onto to the warp yarns. Due to this, there is less excess dye because most of it has already formed a bond with the warp yarns.
COTTONIZED HEMP PROTECTING NATURE UPCYCLED BEAUTY 22
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On targeting Gen Z: Gen Z are empathetic and are the leaders of the sustainability movement. Our RE/J concept covers everything they care for: sustainable fabrics and authentic denim looks inspired by the ’70s and ’80s. The fabrics contain recycled content that comes from post- and pre-consumer waste. All materials used are environmentally friendly, like Lycra EcoMade and Repreve recycled polyester, and they are dyed with our zero-water and no-chemicalwaste technology Dyepro for extra conscious production.
SAITEX FABRIC MILL VIETNAM sai-tex.com
Key fibers: GOTS certified organic cotton, regenerative cotton, recycled cotton, recycled polyester, hemp, Lycra EcoMade, Roica V550, Lubrizol X4J-zol, Carbon-zero Refibra On minimizing the mill’s impact on climate change: When it comes to global climate change, we all have the responsibility to do our part as we must decide now what will be our legacy for generations to come. With that in mind, the Saitex Fabric Mill was designed from the beginning with the goal to minimize its carbon footprint. The mill is certified LEED Gold, using an average of 30 percent less energy than a typical factory. It was constructed with a roof that reflects sunlight, installed natural ventilation, and used materials that promote efficient energy usage to keep the factory and offices cool. This concept includes a 4MW solar installation which helps to reduce the carbon footprint of the mill with a saving of 2000+ tons CO2 per year. On indigo: We reduce our own indigo with the Smart-Indigo system to produce hydrosulfite-free indigo dye baths that only use indigo pigment, caustic soda, water and electricity. That system utilizes an electrochemical dye bath preparation that emits 90 percent less CO2, consumes 70 percent less energy, and 30 percent less water where the only waste product is oxygen. We are using rope dyeing technology from Karl Mayer that produces— with just eight dyeing units—deep, pure shades with a dye application of up to 5.5 percent of the yarn weight. Our main target is to produce sustainable, unique and laser friendly indigo shades. The laser-friendliness plays a major role in the concept of our circular integration, as it allows our garment factory to create wash effects with less water and less chemicals used. In our dyeing facilities we use recycled water in cooperation with the industrial park which is possible through the reverse osmosis and ultrafiltration technology that we have invested into.
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On targeting Gen Z: Gen Z is value driven and everyone is looking for their own unique style, so there is not the ‘one’ fabric line that is made for them. One thing is for sure—a fabric line for Gen Z must be produced responsibly, socially, environment friendly and with the maximum amount of transparency. The young consumer does not tolerate greenwashing. They want to understand what a company’s mission is, what they stand for in society and how they help to improve it. For us, as a circular manufacturer, we need to create unique fabrics that can be traced from seed to shelf.
ORTA
TURKEY ortaanadolu.com
Key fibers: Cotton, organic cotton, pre-consumer and postconsumer recycled cotton, hemp, Tencel, PLA and Refibra On minimizing the mill’s impact on climate change: The climate crisis and the recent climate-related natural disasters motivate us to take urgent action to combat climate change, hence reduce our GHG emissions. We started using 100 percent renewable energy in our spinning and weaving facilities. Now 96 percent of our purchased electricity is generated from renewable energy sources, which accounts for 40 percent of our total consumption. This saves around 15,000 tons of CO2 emissions annually, equivalent to emissions captured by 45,000 trees. As product-level action, we are using life cycle assessment (LCA) methodology to calculate the global warming potential, which indicates the climate change impact of our fabrics starting from the raw material production. With this methodology, we assess the contribution of every input and output of our fabrics, detect hot spots for improvement, and act on improvement. We share the data through QR codes on product hangtags. On indigo: Every fabric is produced using our proprietary Indigo Flow technology, which is a clean label dyeing method that will lead our industry into a more sustainable future. Indigo Flow is the cleanest and most sustainable method of indigo dyeing possible, in which up to 70 percent water savings can be achieved. On targeting Gen Z: Making Orta’s production and environmental impact data available to the consumer is an industry game changer, especially as young consumers’ environmental and social expectations are driving their choices. The best innovation is both technical and emotional, and Orta delivers both in every denim fabric. We join our consumers in their pushback on throwaway fashion. We aim to be part of the solution in fashion without waste, because a great pair of jeans is an emotional badge—a reminder of good times. Our eco-engineered denim stands by our commitment to make the feeling last.
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TWIN DRAGON MEXICO twindragonmarketing.com
Key fibers: Tencel, Refibra, Gracell, Repreve, cotton and hemp On minimizing the mill’s impact on climate change: Twin Dragon has a vision and commitment for social responsibility and sustainability. We implement a variety of technologies to reduce the impact on climate change. Our Eco-Finish treatment reduces water usage by omitting the rinse and de-sizing step in the garment production process, saving 15 gallons of water per yard. Using it on prepared-for-dyeing items eliminates up to 95 percent of water and chemical usage, resulting in a near waterless fabric. A second technology we have been implementing is dyeing with liquid indigo, a pre-reduced dye far superior to powder indigo. Using it eliminates 3 million pounds of wastewater sludge annually (based on production of 24 million yards). We also use sustainable fibers such as Refibra, Repreve, Ciclo and Tencel to contribute to the circular economy in the textile industry. On indigo: We are proud to use liquid indigo dye to help lessen the negative impacts to the environment. It also improves worker safety through the significant reduction of exposure to chemicals. The dye is not only better for the earth but also produces superior color saturation, shade consistency and colorfastness. On targeting Gen Z: Gen Z consumers always follow trends and fashion closely, but they are also very aware of global warming and the environmental issues we are facing daily. We feel the best fabric line for them would be the sustainable and vintage categories.
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COMFORTABLE RENEWABLE SOOTHING
AGI DENIM PAKISTAN WWW.AGIDENIM.COM
Key fibers: BCI cotton, U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol cotton, organic cotton, recycled cotton, hemp, Tencel, recycled materials On minimizing the mill’s impact on climate change: AGI Denim focuses on product sustainability efforts through three key lenses: fiber, fabric and finishing. AGI Denim was one of the first mills to have successfully brought to market denim made with recycled cotton in an impactful way, through volume and consistent longterm production. We are now working to increase the percentage that recycled cotton and other recycled fibers share in denim production. We are also working to bring hemp into the world of denim in a scalable way that can actually move the needle. These yarns come to life with our responsible methods of fabric production including water saving techniques and chemical recycling systems. Finally, in our garment facility, our finishing innovations include washing jeans with recycled water instead of freshwater, eliminating pumice stones and spraying chemicals by robotic systems in conjunction with the most advanced laser machines. On indigo: Some years ago, AGI Denim showed the industry what is possible in large-scale denim production when it introduced its Double Zero technology, which eliminates wastewater in both dyeing and finishing. Importantly, the technology was readily available for wide-scale production orders without caveat and enabled jeans that were commercially equivalent to products on the market. This fabric technology is now also third-party verified to save 90 percent of water that these processes would traditionally use. The natural evolution to this is AGI Denim's ReFresh Denim, which are fabrics made with recycled water, eliminating the need for freshwater for these runs. On targeting Gen Z: The New Authentics line of fabrics has the visual identity that embodies the spirit of Gen Z consumers. The fabrics have distinctive twill lines, strong finish surface character, and feel soft but strong. They are timeless without feeling inherited. Wide-leg jeans, festival denim shorts, baggy silhouettes—these and more work seamlessly with the New Authentics line of fabrics in non-stretch or comfort stretch.
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RESPONSIBLE INNOVATIVE TIMELESS
PANTHER DENIM
CHINA
www.tatfung-tex.com
Key fibers: Recycled cotton, Carbon-zero Tencel, hemp and bio-friendly polyester and spandex On minimizing the mill’s impact on climate change: [We’re achieving] less CO2 footprint. Our vertical setup is focusing on all the key areas to battle against climate change. For example, our production platform has reduced fresh water by using our own water treatment plant to recycle and reuse water. Rerouting heat and therefore lowering energy consumption is another task which we work on to upgrade our facilities. Reusing factory waste from fibers to fabrics to be in the loop again for circularity is a daily must. For our denim and piecedyed fabrics, we are using natural raw materials as much as possible. Our sales team reduces its footprint by digitalization and cutting back on travel. Furthermore, we urge brands to produce fashion with a long life cycle. On indigo: Indigo dyeing is the hidden secret of each denim mill. Panther Denim is committed to ZDHC as a base of what we use. When it comes to our internal processes, we continuously work on saving chemicals, water and electricity as much as possible. C-Zero is our series of waterless color denim. It has a wide range of colors with a real authentic uneven look, almost as if warps were hand dyed. Our patented technology, Equa, combines multiple steps as an all-in-one eco-friendly driven solution. On targeting Gen Z: Marbelous x Recycled is our tribute to vintage, long-lasting denim. We’ve reinvented the authentic marbled character in line with the aim of Gen Z. Key looks—from high waisted wide fits to cropped denim jackets—are the perfect combination by using our Marbelous capsule. We upgraded the vintage denims by adding new softness via Lenzing’s Carbon-zero Tencel to it. Cracks or subtle orange peel looks are beautifully achieved as well. This characteristic gives a unique appearance to the fabric and thus uniqueness to every pair of jeans. This uniqueness will bring the individualism to the wearer, and it is exactly what Gen Z is looking for.
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SOFT LASTING COMFORT VINTAGE X RECYCLED
CRESCENT BAHUMAN LIMITED PAKISTAN WWW.CRESCENTBAHUMAN.COM
Key fibers: Hemp, Lycra Tough Max, Dyneema, EcoVero, Carbonzero Tencel, Creora regen and Refibra On minimizing the mill’s impact on climate change: Crescent Bahuman Limited (CBL) is among the first 10 companies to join the Pakistan Environment Trust’s Net Zero coalition, where leading companies have shown their climate stewardship to deliver netzero greenhouse gas emissions at the corporate level. We’re committed to reduce emissions by at least 40 percent within the next five years. We have installed solar panels with a capacity of generating about 1.3 MW of electricity, and plan to expand this project. Replacing sodium lamps and fluorescent lights with LED lights throughout our facility too has helped us contribute to the reduction of GHG emissions, as they produce zero toxic elements and save up to 80 percent more energy than conventional bulbs. On indigo: Indigo is the heart of denim. For this reason, innovations related to dyeing have been made and continue to be made over time. The most important of these is switching from natural indigo to synthetic indigo, and pre-reduced indigo has given factories an advantage for dyestuff preparation and shade stability. Although hydrosulfite is currently the most widely used reducing chemical, it is important to start using environmentally friendly and sustainable chemical alternatives. On targeting Gen Z: Gen Z is looking for products that require minimum care yet offer maximum functionalities and aesthetics. [There is a need for] all-in-one solutions for school, office, university, gym and sleep. Gen Z consumers also bear critical thought process and a proactive approach towards every small detail in life. Looking at sustainable certifications is the new approach to making purchases. Consumers are looking to gain knowledge about the material and manufacturing of the product they are being offered. 34
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SUPPLE ENERGETIC CARING
ADVANCE DENIM
CHINA + VIETNAM www.advancedenim.com
Key fibers: Tencel, Refibra, Lycra Adaptiv, Lycra Dual FX, Wafer, finespun hemp, 37.5 Technology, recycled cotton, organic cotton, Repreve On minimizing the mill’s impact on climate change: Advance Denim is looking both inward at our own facility and outward in collaboration with our supply chain partners to lower our carbon footprint. We recently published our comprehensive and aggressive carbon reduction goals for the next 10 years. Advance Denim has already implemented water saving infrastructure that has resulted in a 54 percent water reuse rate, and we will continue to invest in machinery that not only uses less water but recycles the water that is used. We have also looked at our power generation and have replaced our coal boiler with clean natural gas and started installing solar panels to have autonomous power generation. The next step is to replace all of our refrigerant to R32 that has a low environmental impact. It’s these types of investments in carbon reduction that have earned Advance Denim a HIGG FEM score of 88 compared to the industry standard of 57.3.
CLEAN GREEN COLORFUL
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On indigo: Instead of changing to an indigo substitute, Advance Denim changed the dye process in order to produce a cleaner, more sustainable true indigo dyed yarn. In 2020, the mill introduced big box dyeing, a revolutionary true liquid indigo dye process that reduces the 8-13 dye boxes needed in conventional dyeing to one big box. This results in a 95.5 percent water savings, 35 percent chemical savings, 25.5 percent energy savings and 99 percent less wastewater. Big box dyeing does all this while using pure liquid indigo. We made indigo even cleaner by reducing the need for toxic, flammable and poisonous sodium hydrosulfite in the indigo dye process. Our BioBlue indigo is a groundbreaking method of putting indigo into reduction without the need for harmful sodium hydrosulfite. On targeting Gen Z: Advance Denim’s Greenlet sustainable denim collection addresses Gen Z’s commitment to climate change mitigation. Gen Z is looking for cleaner, more natural and circular garments that highlight their social responsibly. The Greenlet collection uses big box dyeing and BioBlue indigo, as well as sustainable fibers like finespun hemp, Tencel and Refibra, postconsumer and post-industrial recycled cotton, organic cotton and recycled and biodegradable polyesters. The newest addition to the collection is botanic dyes, which are dyestuffs derived from all-natural ingredients such as chestnuts, berries, roots, flowers and plant indigo. These dyes are all natural and produce yarn-dyed denim with vibrant shades.
SIDDIQSONS LIMITED PAKISTAN WWW.THESIDDIQSONSGROUP.COM
Key fibers: Pre-consumer and post-consumer recycled cotton, organic cotton, cottonized hemp, recycled polyester and dual and triple core-spun yarns On minimizing the mill’s impact on climate change: We are recycling industrial waste product into raw material and recycling up to 70 percent of the water used in the process. Additionally, we are converting partial power generation into renewable energy solar panels, ultimately minimizing carbon emissions. We also have a dedicated area for vegetation in our facility. On indigo: Siddiqsons has converted its production to 100 percent salt-free dyeing. This is the most sustainable process by which we have not only converted our existing shades, but also contributed to the society by saving water usage. Consistent, sustainable aniline-free indigo dyeing is the motive of Siddiqsons’ wet processing.
HERITAGE SIZE INCLUSIVITY RESPONSIBLE 38
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On targeting Gen Z: Siddiqsons Limited is a [conscious] brand assuring denim will never be out of fashion. By embracing technology, our R&D is evolving with Gen Z. From fiber to fabrics, Siddiqsons launches collections with authenticity, high-quality raw materials and blends, aesthetically pleasing shades and hand feels. Our fabric lines provide fast-fashion trends with high-stretch and high recovery, and also minimize the environmental impact associated with them.
ARTISTIC MILLINERS PAKISTAN www.artisticmilliners.com
Key fibers: Renewcell, Tencel and Ecovero On minimizing the mill’s impact on climate change: At our mills we are taking a holistic approach to sustainability and circularity to help address climate change, from investment in a brand-new fiber recycling plant on site to our partnership with regenerative recycling partners such as Lenzing. Our freshwater consumption each meter has come down by 60 percent thanks to water recycling. Resource-saving innovations replace traditional chemicals with more organic ones, and conventional processes have been replaced with more modern eco-friendly approaches like finishing fabrics with Ozone. This helped us achieve Cradle to Cradle Gold certification. We have also made investment to recycle caustic substances used at plants and recover black sulfur dyes besides indigo reuse. We have optimized our rooftop solar panel capacity to increase renewable energy share in our energy matrix, with most of our production facilities now being LEED certified. We generate 100 megawatts through our wind energy farms in Jhimpir Sindh, Pakistan and are investing over $350 million in hydroelectric power generation. We are also making farm level interventions with WWF-Pakistan to promote organic farming in the country. This also helps preserves land quality and serve as carbon sinks. On indigo: Ice Breaker dyeing technology uses 20 percent less energy and displays 25 percent better laser ability while resulting in rich shades. Crystal Clear 3.0 dye technology reduces water consumption by 80 percent as a combined wet process. We’re also planning a partnership soon on indigo technology with Lenzing. On targeting Gen Z: The range that best targets the generation is Cloud 9, which are super soft fabrics that run the gamut from nonstretch all the way up to comfort stretch, while maintaining that fabulous authentic character. It’s great for relaxed silhouettes.
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WORK-LEISURE COMFORT AUTHENTICITY
IN THE DETAILS Trim manufactures embrace the challenge to do more with less. w o r d s _____ANGELA VELASQUEZ
Circular, timeless, and durable are three qualities valued in the global denim market, and they carry the same weight in the trims category. Though small, the importance of trims is becoming louder as consumers seek long-lasting garments that can withstand the daily wear-and-tear of their owner (and perhaps multiple owners) and be processed for recycling. “Customers are increasingly oriented towards innovative, creative products with attention to detail and demonstrate high manufacturing quality,” said Gloria Crivellaro, Ribbontex Srl export sales manager. Products that promise durability and recyclability are in high demand, as well as vegan solutions for patches and labels and raw metals that are free of paint and coating, according to Tilmann Wröbel, founder of the denim consultancy Monsieur-T. Though he sees a trend for fewer labels on jeans, those that do exist need to be made with sustainable materials and provide vital information about the product. “It is young and fresh to communicate the information on the garment,” Wröbel said. “Technical features and tips for home laundering and ways to reduce water consumption need to be communicated in an easy yet impactful manner.” Education about fashion’s impact on the environment is driving up the demand for sustainable alternatives. “More and more customers are requesting sustainable trims,” said Thibault Greuzat, Dorlet CEO. “Customers want concrete solutions and measurable impact.”
SUSTAINABILITY
“Customers are requesting more sustainable products to protect the environment,” said Chris Gleeson, director of YKK (U.S.A.) Inc. global marketing group. “More specifically, they are looking to reduce the amount of water used in the manufacturing process while at the same time lowering their carbon footprint and increasing the number of recycled materials.” YKK is expanding its GRS certified Natulon collection of recycled polyester zipper tapes and its AcroPlating finishing technology for zippers and metal hardware. The technology eliminates harmful chemicals, toxic waste, and thermal energy usage, and reduces GHG emissions, water usage, electricity
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YKK
consumption, chemical usage, and sludge generation from the brass plating process. Establishing targets to reduce emissions and waste is central to YKK’s business. The company aims to convert 100 percent of its textile materials to sustainable materials by 2030, develop new manufacturing methods to reduce and eliminate hazardous chemicals, reduce water intake by improving efficiency and reusing water, and convert to solar power where possible. “We are fully committed to a 50 percent reduction of emissions from a 2018 baseline year by 2030 and achieving net-zero emissions by 2050, and our emissions reduction targets were approved by the Science Based Targets initiative (SBTi) in March 2021,” Gleeson said. “We are also focusing on digitalization to support 3D sampling to reduce the number of garments produced during the design and development stages, and we are also introducing products that can be more easily repaired, which will extend the life of garments.” As fabric mills shift focus away from polyester blends that complicate recycling to circular and mono-fiber constructions, trims suppliers are also developing ways they can help streamline endof-life garment recycling. Dorlet is using raw material to create one-piece items that facilitate recycling, and in the process, the French company is extending the lifespan of buttons. Dorlet’s removable Diabolo concept is the first denim button designed for the life of several garments. A single Diabolo button can be used for multiple pairs of jeans. “Therefore, there is no more waste because the Diabolo will survive the end of the garment’s life,” Greuzat said. The French company is also building out its biodegradable options with buttons made from wood sourced from the Juras forest in France and developing a new range of trims made with GRS certified materials like nylon fishing net. “We hope to create a real community aware and active to reduce the environmental impact,” Greuzat said. A sustainable product begins with responsibly sourced raw materials, processing and finishing. “Each of these elements must be carefully selected taking into consideration the impact it can have on the environment at the end of a product’s life cycle,” Crivellaro said. Ribbontex relies on the values and certifications of third parties to classify products according to their environmental impact, specifically Oeko-Tex Standard 100 for yarns and Leather Standard by Oeko-Tex for leather. It also prides itself in being a “highly verticalized” company that maintains 100 percent of its production in Italy. “In addition to strictly complying with the Italian regulations and specifications in waste management, Ribbontex also uses
Dorlet
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materials from renewable sources, yarns from recycled PET, pre- and post-consumer recycled cotton, 100 percent GOTS organic cotton and hemp,” Crivellaro said. Though the denim category has become a leader in sustainable technology and production, the demand for sustainable trends does not start and end with jeans.
“Customers want concrete solutions and measurable impact.” —THIBAULT GREUZAT, DORLET
“While using classic and evergreen materials such as leather and polyester and cotton yarns, we have presented new exclusive patents dedicated to the world of footwear,” Crivellaro said. “These new products allow the customization of footwear with ease and speed, giving greater involvement and satisfaction to the final users who can thus express their uniqueness and personality.”
FASHION
How fashionable can a zipper be? Plenty. “While we always focus on reliability and performance, recent trends allow us to incorporate texture, patterns, and color into our products,” Gleeson said. “We understand that you don’t have to sacrifice quality to meet the designer’s needs.” Though sustainability takes center stage in YKK’s digital showroom, the company is presenting shiny metallic trims with colorful accents and zipper tapes with various weaving techniques and color texture. The royal heritage and elegance of the prestigious equestrian sports like dressage and polo is one of those influences. The activities’ elevated aesthetics have influenced fashion houses like Ralph Lauren, Fendi and Gucci for decades and they were key themes in the Gucci x Balenciaga hackathon, which fashion watchers pinned as the future of collaborations. The release of “House of Gucci” starring Lady Gaga and a treasure trove of vintage Gucci designs has only magnified the style’s appeal. For Ribbontex, the theme is distinguished by chic and classic designs. Crivellaro said the trims have a “timeless allure” and refined details that are modern and “with a strong Italian accent.” “Trends have always played a role in influencing our collections,” she said. “The world of culture, cinema, literature, news and society are, for us, an inexhaustible source where we can filter and elaborate [on those elements for] our proposals.”
YKK
THE BLUE ROAD AHEAD
POST-COVID DENIM DEMAND & TRENDS The extent and duration of denim supply chain disruptions from the global Covid-19 pandemic remains to be seen, but one thing has stayed strong— consumer interest. Responses to a Cotton Incorporated Lifestyle Monitor™ survey conducted in March 2021 indicate that more than two-thirds of U.S. consumers (67 percent) say they are wearing denim jeans more often (18 percent) or the same amount (49 percent). In fact, more than one-third of consumers (34 percent) report that denim jeans are the bottomwear they have sported most often. That is followed by sweatpants or joggers (23 percent), leggings or jeggings (19 percent), casual pants (13 percent) and active pants (7 percent). One potential influence on denim’s current popularity is that many consumers are working from home. The same survey reveals that 34 percent of consumers expect to wear denim jeans more often while working remotely than they did before the pandemic. In addition, many individuals preparing to return to the workplace full-time are hopeful for relaxed
dress codes. Should this come to pass, 39 percent of survey respondents say that they would expect to wear denim more often. The majority of consumers (55 percent) say they are wearing denim jeans at least three times a week. Looking ahead, consumer interest in denim remains steady. As it has been for the past two years, 85 percent of consumers say they plan to purchase more (17 percent) or the same (68 percent) amount of denim jeans over the next year. And most consumers (66 percent) say they plan to make all or most (19 percent) of their denim jeans purchases this year in physical store locations. This might be due to “Covid Cabin Fever” and the urge to return to a semblance of normalcy. Or it may be because the major purchase drivers for jeans benefit if shoppers are able to try them on before purchasing. More than nine in 10 consumers say fit (96 percent), comfort (95 percent), quality (95 percent), durability (93 percent) and price (93 percent) are important factors in their denim purchase decisions.
7% 13%
34%
Consumer Bottomwear Preferences Denim Jeans Sweatpants/Joggers
19%
Leggings/Jeggings Casual Pants
23%
Active Pants SOURCE: COTTON INCORPORATED LIFESTYLE MONITORTM SURVEY, MARCH 2021
CREDIT: IC PRODUCTION/ADOBE
SHOPPING BEHAVIOR Consumers say that on average, they are paying $43 for a pair of jeans. What kinds of denim are consumers interested in purchasing? Cotton and cotton-rich denim. More than four in five consumers say cotton-rich jeans are the most authentic (88 percent), softest (88 percent), breathable (87 percent), comfortable (86 percent), reliable
(85 percent), sustainable (85 percent) and high-quality (83 percent) compared to manmade fiber-blended jeans. When asked about issues with synthetic blended denim, more than two in five consumers say that manmade fiberblended jeans have the biggest itchiness (57 percent) and odor issues (44 percent) compared to cotton or cotton/spandex
Compared to Synthetics Consumers Authentic
Softest
Breathable
Comfortable
Reliable
Sustainable
High Quality
SOURCE: COTTON INCORPORATED LIFESTYLE MONITORTM SURVEY, MARCH 2021
A third of consumers say they plan to wear denim more often for remote work than they did pre-pandemic. CREDIT: ASYA/ADOBE
83%
jeans. In fact, the majority of consumers (59 percent) say they prefer their denim jeans to be made from 100 percent cotton or cotton with stretch. With a plethora of fits available, which are the most appealing? According to responses, when shopping for denim jeans, consumers are most likely to buy relaxed (18 percent) or classic/regular (15 percent) fit, followed by straight (14 percent), skinny (12 percent), bootcut (8 percent) and slim (7 percent). Perhaps as a result of the pandemic, more than twothirds of consumers say they are wearing their relaxed or casual cut jeans the same (42 percent) or more often (26 percent) now than before Covid.
s Find Cotton Denim More... 88%
88% 87%
86%
85%
85%
Most shoppers equate cotton-rich denim with softness. CREDIT: PAUL BRADBURY/CAIA IMAGE/ADOBE
MATERIAL SELECTION
Denim with TransDRY® technology
Cotton Incorporated’s product development team is introducing new denim constructions to its FABRICAST™ library this year. These include several options with sustainability in mind, such as two 100-percent cotton indigo denims with ombre plaid, achieved by laser etching the full width of the fabric, and with no additional finishes. Cationic cotton, brought into the spotlight earlier this year with Polo Ralph Lauren’s Olympic apparel, is also featured in a 100-percent cotton fabric in a gold color. Cationic treated cotton yarn can mimic interesting yarn-dyed looks in cotton piece-dyed fabrics. Using cationic yarns also allows for reduced inputs in dyeing—no salt, less dyestuff and shorter dye cycles. FABRICAST™ also includes examples of denim colored with EarthColors® dye, which is made from cotton biomass. By using agricultural waste as a circular dyestuff, the environmental impact of the pigments is reduced. For consumers that like performance features in their jeans, the FABRICAST™ library includes several options with TransDRY® technology. This finish enhances cotton’s moisture-wicking abilities to help keep wearers comfortable and dry. Cotton denim provides the comfort and softness that consumers crave, mixed with a constantly expanding array of sustainable innovations that make jeans greener. While the processes behind denim evolve, one thing’s for certain: the pandemic-proof wardrobe staple is here to stay.
Denim made with EarthColors® dye
The plaid print on this denim was created with laser etching.
Cotton Incorporated, the research and promotion company for cotton, has a range of resources for the denim sector including: denim construction inspirations from the company’s FABRICAST® collection of fabric construction inspirations; 3D digital fabric downloads compatible with Browzwear and CLO available on www.cottonworks.com; consumer and industry market data; and the opportunity to participate in the Blue Jeans Go Green™ denim recycling program, which collects unwanted denim and transforms it into a range of new and useful products.
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