souksouk
little green magazine
June 2013 Issue #3
Summer’s here! Are you ready?
- Ombre lips - Power of plants - Faking it - Truth about parabens - Green SPFs -
Editor’s Whether you’re reading this from the comfort of a sun lounger in St Tropez or while sitting on a rush hour bus to Tooting, we hope there’s something to inspire you to go green this summer. We’ve scouted everything from serums to sunscreens, fake tans to face masks and gathered enough facts to make you an SPF expert in one sitting. One feature I’m particularly excited about this month is Plant Stem Cell Technology (page 6). This relatively new discovery has opened up a whole new world of possibilities for skincare, especially anti-aging formulations. And to develop it doesn’t involve ethical or moral contention, conventional agriculture, or significant use of key resources such as water. It has been described as an approach that is ‘beyond organic’. Some brands such as Intelligent Nutrients and MyChelle already use the technology but we should prepare to see this take off in a big way in months and years to come.
letter
We also wanted to address the issue of parabens (page 15). The use of this synthetic preservative has been rejected by many brands and consumers. We wanted to find out whether parabens really put us at risk and to what extent we need to avoid them. There’s also our second OrGlamic Lifer, Charlotte Vohtz, founder of Green People (page 12) giving us the lowdown on her beauty regime. We hope you enjoy our third issue - let us know what you think. Drop us a line via Facebook or Twitter, or email us at iwantbetterbeauty@souksouk.co.uk
Love, Victoria x
s u o l u b fa a e v a H ! r e m m su
02 / E d i t o r ’ s L e t t e r
All photography Shutterstock unless otherwise stated For all our terms and conditions please visit our website www.souksouk.co.uk
- Hot Hot Hot #Blog Love Leg it bugs
Beauty Crush: Eve of St Agnes
Completely natural and planet-friendly spider deterrent, perfect for phobic campers. ÂŁ15 roullierwhite.com
We love this well-informed beauty blog featuring green & mainstream product reviews and tips as well as lifestyle posts. wewereraisedbywolves.blogspot.co.uk
Festival Season Fever The festival circuit kicks off this month with Glastonbury on the 26th June. Another one to watch is Wilderness which boasts wellbeing talks and therapies, poetry readings and workshops. wildernessfestival.com
If you’re looking to refresh your cleanse and moisturise regime, try the Revive & Renew range from our new favourite, Eve of St Agnes. The cleanser oozes citrusiness with organic sweet orange oil and the range is free from synthetic chemicals. eveofstagnes.com
In the mood for... Sea greens
1.
2.
4. 5.
3.
1. Zoya Pixie Dust lacquer in Vespa 2. Dr Hauschka Kajal Eyeline in Grazioso Silvery Green 3. Lavera Mineral Eyeshadow in Forest Green 4. Lily Lolo Mineral Eye shadow in Green Opal 5. Barefaced Mineral Eye shadow in Peridot
H o t H o t H o t / 03
Ombr
e!
-Trending
now-
Ombre lips are a big trend this summer. Get it right and you’re golden. But careful, no kissing!
MUA Tips 1. Choose two contrasting colours or two extreme shades of the same colour. We like red/orange, red/pale pink and brown/pale pink 2. Use a pencil or thin brush to outline both lips and prevent bleeding 3. Fill in both lips with colour from the outer edge to mid-lip 4. With the second colour, fill in the rest from the mid-lip inwards 5. Use the brush to blend the two colours just where they join 6. Finish by a sealing with a coat of gloss
04 / T r e n d i n g
now
Seal it with a slick of Lip gloss in Champagne by Juice Beauty ÂŁ15 juicebeauty.com
Watch our Get the Look vids at souksouk.co.uk
Fake
5
minute masterclass
it
‘til
you make it
We all want to hit the beach with a sunkissed glow already intact. But how to go streak-free? Follow these simple rules...
1. 2. 3.
Exfoliate, exfoliate, exfoliate! Probably the most important rule of tanning. This removes any dry patches and ensures a more even colour. Moisturise all over with a non-oily body lotion, paying particular attention to elbows, heels, knuckles and beneath the bra line. Using latex gloves or a mitt, apply the product, focusing on one area at a time so you don’t miss anywhere. Its a good idea to apply at night before your body heats up, helping the tan to develop.
4. 5.
After applying use a soft loofah to buff any drier areas such as knees and feet and apply moisturiser for a natural finish. Wash your hands, apply some moisturiser and follow with the tanning product, going sparingly over any dry areas. Then wipe any residue from your nails.
6.
In the morning rinse and moisturise liberally. To maintain the tan, exfoliate every two days and keep up the moisturiser
Top tanners #Lavera Self-tanning Lotion £13.50 pravera.co.uk #Green People Self Tan £17.95 greenpeople.co.uk #Laidbare Tantastic £5.99 #Trilogy Bronzing Gel £17.50 trilogyproducts.com
M a s t e r c l a s s / 05
Plant
stem cell technology
You may have heard the hype: plant stem cell technology is the next big thing in not only anti-aging skin care but in cosmetics and even health care. But is it really everything it’s cracked up to be? Stem cell technology is nothing new. In fact the human cell stem projects we’re probably more familiar with have been in development for decades, and have often been the centre of controversy. But there are some significant differences in the way plant stem cells work and this, according to many, opens up a wide range of possibilities. Stem cells reside in all plants and animals and they all have the ability to self-renew. The main difference is that human stem cells only contain enough information to renew themselves so for example, a brain cell can only renew as a brain cell. A plant stem cell however, has the potential to become any type of cell or organ tissue (or even another plant!) depending upon where it ‘lives’ or is applied. So if a plant stem cell is placed next to a skin cell it will become one. Stem cells also have the ability to divide almost limitlessly which is a huge advantage for cultivation. Because plants can’t run away from danger, they need another way of fighting off environmental stress and damage. This has been considered a huge breakthrough in antiaging skincare. As our skin ages, our existing stem cells become lazy. Applying plant stem cells to the skin can encourage the growth of healthy skin cells helping to plump up the skin. 06 / P l a n t
s t em c ell
Why are plant stem cells so adaptable? Because plants are rooted and can’t run away from danger, they need another way of fighting off environmental stress and damage. That mechanism is the stem cell. Through regenerating elements of its make-up such as leaves, shoots and flowers, stem cells enable the plant to survive, in many cases for thousands of years. How did the discovery come about? Reportedly, the inspiration for researching into plant stem cells came from an almost extinct Swiss apple tree known as the Uttwiler Spätlauber. It was originally bred for its long shelf life and ability to heal itself. Researchers found in an early trial that when subjects applied a cream with 2% of the apple stem cell ingredient every day for four weeks, wrinkle depth reduced by 15%. Is this the future?
Our pick of the stem cell super serums
#100% Pure Superfruits Concentrated Serum £32 100percentpure.co.uk #Intelligent Nutrients Renewal Complex Skin Serum £52 intelligentnutrients.co.uk #MyChelle Apple Brightening Serum £38 mychelleuk.com #Juice Beauty Stem Cellular Repair Moisturiser £62 juicebeauty.com
Scientists are certainly excited about plant stem cell technology, particularly as so many diseases and disorders involve significant cell damage so the ability to regenerate any cell has endless potential. Horst Rechelbacher, organic farmer and founder of Intelligent Nutrients believes this technology is ‘beyond organic’ and potentially a serious change-maker: “Plant stem cells are toxin-free and incubated in complete nutrition from the mother host: the plant. This is a new path in consumer product manufacturing and high-tech engineering that can replace conventional, polluting agriculture.”
Plant
s t em c ell
/ 07
Supersize This
Avocado Avocados have had a bad rap for being high in calories, but a new study says people who eat them are healthier and weigh less than people who don’t.* Furthermore, those calorific fats are actually ‘good’ fats which help the body to better absorb other nutrients and keep cholesterol down. Avocados contain no fewer than 25 essential nutrients including vitamins A, B, C, E and K, copper, iron and magnesium.
The Busy Girl’s Guacamole
Avocados also contain potassium which helps control blood pressure, and they are rich in beta-sitosterol which helps reduce cholesterol. Also present is the antioxidant glutathione which helps fight against free-radicals and the ageing process. Slice up and add to salads with bacon or blue cheese. Or ripen on the windowsill and use as a spread on toast or oat cakes. Avocado oil is rich, highly moisturising and nourishing. It is particularly good for mature skin and is often used to treat psoriasis. For a creamy soothing treat, we like Essential Care’s Organic Avocado Replenishing Cream £18 essential-care.co.uk, Trilogy’s Ultra Hydrating Face Cream £24.50 trilogyproducts.com and A’kin Avocado and Calendula Conditioner £10.50 purist.com.
08 / A v o c a d o
Blend together 2-4 red chillies, two tomatoes, one small onion, a handful of coriander leaves and a pinch of salt. Mash 3 ripe avocados into the mixture and finish with some lime juice to taste.
*Source Huffington Post 21/2/13
The Essentials
Lavender - The ultimate oil for quality R & R -
One of the most versatile essential oils, lavender is a good all-round multi-tasker which every house should find a home for.
Lavender is one of the most powerful oils available and is a staple in aromatherapy and natural first-aid. Its uses as a relaxant and remedy for minor cuts and bruises are welldocumented. However, the benefits of lavender go much further to include headache relief and even the promotion of sensuality. In fact, as legend would have it, Cleopatra used lavender to seduce Julius Caesar and Mark Antony.
Lavender room & linen spray Make your own
Filter one half pint glass of water then add 10-12 drops of lavender essential oil and 2-3 teaspoons of witch hazel to act as a preservative. Shake well and pour into a clean spritz bottle, then spritz away!
Perfect pickings Dr Hauschka Lavender Bath £17.50 drhauschka.com
Dr Bronners’ Magic Soap in Lavender £5.40 drbronners.com
Weleda Lavender Body Oil £11.95 weleda.co.uk
Badger Balm Sleep Balm £3.99 badgerbalm.com
Treat yourself
Try Spiezia Calming Lavender Room Spray £13.95 spieziaorganics.com
L av e n d e r / 09
Use Lavender
for
Skin irritations and minor cuts Lavender oil is very effective at soothing and healing minor skin irritations. It can be applied undiluted to unbroken skin. Otherwise, reduce the concentration with a light carrier oil. Mix 3-4 drops with a carrier oil and massage into inflamed or irritated skin
Tension and headaches Lavender’s calming effect can make it effective for soothing headaches and tension. Burn 3-4 drops in a diffuser Add 3-4 drops to a tissue and inhale slowly for ten minutes Massage a few drops into the temples and neck
Relaxation and calming nerves Lavender is well-known for its calming properties and is often used in sleep treatments. Add 8-10 drops to the bath for a relaxing soak Mix 3-4 drops with a carrier oil and massage into any high tension areas such as the shoulders and neck
Cough and sore throat Lavender oil’s natural antiseptic and anti-inflammatory properties can help to soothe the symptoms of respiratory infection. Add 5-6 drops to a steam inhalation Gently massage a few drops around the nose, neck and throat
Lavender can be used to relieve menstrual pain as it acts as an anti-inflammatory to help relax muscles. Massage 3-4 drops into the lower abdomen Add 5-6 drops to a hot compress and apply to the abdomen for 15 minutes 10 / L av e n d e r
Menstrual cramps
- Face
Skin SOS
mask
Q&A -
Face masks are an important part of any beauty regime. But with so many different types available, how do you know which one to choose? Should my mask have clay or mud in it?
What’s better, an exfoliating mask or separate exfoliator and mask?
It depends what your skin needs. If you have dry skin, you might be better with a hydrating or moisturising mask. Clay and mud masks are good for oily skin because they dry quickly and detoxify, opening up pores and absorbing excess oil. If you have combination skin you can apply a clay mask just to the oily areas.
A mask can effectively exfoliate as well as treat the skin. Exfoliation begins with the application so the mask can get to work straight away. Great if you’re short on time! If you prefer regular treatments, a separate exfoliation twice a week followed by a mask once a week might work better for you.
Peel-off masks: Good or Gimmick?
Where should I apply the mask?
Peel-off masks are usually gel-based and designed to clear out pores and firm up the skin. They are suitable for most skin types and can be effective at removing blackheads and dead skin cells. Once applied, the mask dries and can then be peeled off – which can be an enjoyable sensation! But if it’s heavyweight nourishment you’re after, there are better mask types available.
Masks can be applied either all over the face or to specific areas, and don’t forget other visible areas such as the neck and décolletage. Firming masks should be massaged into the contours where elasticity is reduced, to help tighten up those areas. Before applying, take five minutes to massage your face. This will stimulate the flow of oxygen and open up the pores helping the mask get to work quicker.
Our top 5 face masks Yes to Cucumbers Calming Facial Mask £11.99 yestocarrots.com Patyka Radiant Exfoliating Mask £56 patyka.com Dr Alkaitis Organic Universal Mask £48 alkaitis.org/en Kahina Antioxidant Mask £64 givingbeauty.com Ila Face Mask for Revitalising Skin £60 ila-spa.com F a c e M a s k s / 011
- an orGLAMic life Who better to divulge some beauty tips from than one of the founders of organic beauty as we now know it? We met the inspirational Charlotte Vohtz, owner of Green People to talk juicing, cellulite and serums... “I like to start the day on a healthy note and drink a cup of hot water with lemon which is cleansing for the digestive system. I’m very much a juicer so I create a juice most mornings for breakfast. I like to keep it simple and usually go for a combination of carrots, apple and ginger, or occasionally beetroot for its cleansing properties and pear which helps the digestive system.
I think people are starting to become more aware that if our digestion isn’t good, it has a negative impact on our skin. I’ve been juicing for several years now and I’ve seen a definite improvement in my complexion and my energy levels. I often add a mixture of wheatgrass and barley for an extra kick. You could add spirulina but I prefer to take that in tablet form.
“I juice beetroot for it’s cleansing properties”
Charlotte’s Beauty Picks Hydrating Firming Serum £11.95 Anti-ageing Facial Oil £16.95 Nurture Body Lotion £18.95 All by Green People greenpeople.co.uk
12 / A n O r g l a m i c L i fe
- an orGLAMic life I body brush every morning which stimulates the lymphatic system, boosts energy levels and helps prevent cellulite. For just an extra five minutes a day, it’s time well worth spending on yourself. I often like to swim at the local pool but if there isn’t time I’ll take a bath with either Epsom salts or some essential oils. I like the combination of rosemary which is energising and lavender which balances out the oil combination with a calming effect. “I believe in mixing products because the skin changes, so different combinations can be more effective.” For skincare, at the moment I mix an anti-ageing oil with a facial serum – both by Green People of course! I believe in mixing products because the skin changes, not only with age, but with the seasons, so different combinations can be more effective. I started Green People in 1997 to create natural products that would be suitable for my daughter to use. She suffered from eczema and severe allergies which were linked to the chemicals in household and personal care products.
Back then I spent days carrying a big brown box full of products round the shops trying to sell them. There was no such thing as organic certification for skincare back then. After much probing, the Soil Association eventually developed a standard for skincare and Green People became one of the first few brands to gain organic certification. Being a part of that was one of my proudest moments. My working days tend to be very long. I typically start at 9am and can sometimes work through to midnight. My ambition now is to have my business recognised worldwide as a pioneer of certified organic skincare. We want our products to be seen as truly functional, backed by science. We are constantly innovating and we’ll shortly be launching a range developed using plant stem cell technology. It’s an exciting time for the organic beauty industry. There’s a lot of choice out there for consumers. My advice to anyone wanting to get into organic skincare is to innovate as much as possible and bring in fresh ideas.”
A n O r g l a m i c L i fe / 13
S u n s c r e e n : T h e F a c ts Summer’s here! Time for a quick swot-up on your SPFs What does SPF mean? The Sun Protection Factor (SPF) is the number of times you can sit in the sun longer than without sunscreen, without burning. For example, with SPF 15 you can sit in the sun for 15 times longer without burning than without sunscreen. It wouldn’t take long for fair skin to burn in the Sahara Desert so it really is down to you to decide which SPF is appropriate for your skin type for where you are. As a general rule, the higher the better. Is there a difference between ‘waterproof’ and ‘water resistant’? Yes there is. A sunscreen is considered ‘water resistant’ if it maintains its SPF after 40 minutes in the water. It is considered ‘waterproof’ if it maintains its SPF after 80 minutes in the water. What’s the difference between sunscreen and sunblock? Sunscreen contains ingredients which filter and reduce UV radiation and work by creating a thin film over the skin. Sunblock contains ingredients such as titanium dioxide and zinc oxide to create a physical block between the skin and UV rays. It is particularly good for children and people with heightened sun sensitivities. When should you use a sunscreen? On holiday, sunscreen should be applied frequently. At home in the UK, some experts suggest that a low sunscreen should be used daily. However, others disagree. Margaret Weeds, founder of Essential Care says, “repeated use of synthetic sunscreens can lead to blocked pores and promote skin damage and premature aging. More important is antioxidant skincare. Vitamins A, C, E and beta carotene can help prevent premature ageing by scavenging the ‘free radicals’ generated by sunlight.”
14 / S u n s c r ee n
Get packing... Luzern Laboratories La Defense SPF30 £36 luzernlabs.com Juice Beauty SPF30 Mineral Moisturiser Sheer £27 juicebeauty.com Jason Family Natural Sunscreen SPF45 £11.99 jasonnaturalcare.co.uk Green People Scent Free Sun Lotion SPF25 £17.95 greenpeople.co.uk
Issues
t h at g e t u n d e r o u r s k i n
Parabens
Parabens are often used as a preservative in skin creams and cosmetics but some believe it poses serious risk to our health. We look at why... Parabens are a group of preservatives that are regularly added to food and cosmetics. The more common types are listed on product labels as methylparaben, butylparaben and ethylparaben. In the last decade they have come under scrutiny because of their ability to mimic oestrogen, which has been shown to play a role in the development of breast cancer. During that time a number of studies found parabens present in the breast tissue of cancer patients. In 2004, Dr Philippa Darbre, a senior lecturer in oncology at the University of Reading, carried out a small study demonstrating that parabens could be detected in human breast tissue. It was then thought that parabens were entering the tissue through the application of cosmetics such as underarm deodorant, particularly if the area was shaved which removes the top protective layer of skin. A later, more in-depth study followed and the findings prompted the Daily Mail to claim that a “chemical found in deodorants, face cream and food products is discovered in [the] tumours of ALL breast cancer patients”; a statement criticised for over-exaggerating the findings.
Cancer Research UK responded to the report saying: “This research does not in any way prove that anti-perspirants are a risk factor in cancer. The increased proliferation of cells is only one element of causing cancer and it does not prove that parabens are carcinogenic.” The study was criticised for its small number of samples and a lack of blank samples to compare the findings with. Breakthrough Breast Cancer surmised that “Further research is needed to establish the source of the chemicals found in the breast tumour samples and what, if any, the relationship is to breast cancer.” In the meantime, a review by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review found that parabens are safe for use in cosmetic products at levels up to 25 percent, adding that typically, those products would only use parabens at levels ranging from 0.01 percent to 0.3 percent. Some advocates of natural and botanical skincare do support the use of parabens. Liz Earle, for example, cites on her website that one of the early studies was “highly flawed” and still uses them in her formulations.
So what’s the verdict? Whether you decide to avoid parabens is entirely down to personal choice. Until studies show categorically that there’s a link between parabens and breast cancer, the wider industry will continue to dispute a serious cause for concern. However, the natural beauty industry has shown that we can still have amazing, innovative and highly effective skincare without the use of parabens, so if you are worried about a risk, there’s no need for you to take it. Issues
t h at g e t u n d e r o u r s k i n
/ 15
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