souksouk
little green magazine
August 2013 Issue #5
Last Days of Summer
- Sustainable fashion - Nude nails - Vegan brushes - Ombre eye - Petroleum -
Editor’s G
letter
oing green in beauty products alone will only take us so far. In order to get the most benefit out of our cleaner, greener beauty products, we need to think holistically. That means making simple changes to the food we eat, the household products we choose, the way we manage stress and even the clothes we wear. We all know that the majority of the clothes in our wardrobes have probably been made using fabric and resources that are likely to have had a negative impact on someone, somewhere as well as the environment.
For one woman, Jocelyn Whipple, facing the facts about our unsustainable fashion industry is a daily reality, and one she’s tirelessly campaigning to change along with the likes of Livia Firth. Read about her work in An Orglamic Life on page 12.
Events like the recent factory collapse in Bangladesh simply serve to remind us that conditions are not improving. And as we go to press, neither Benetton nor Mango have made any financial contribution to help the victims of the factory disaster, where their clothes were being produced. I feel a boycott coming on...
Also in this month’s issue, we’ve got tonnes of makeup tips, the lowdown on petroleum mineral and another toiletry bag expose, featuring the lovely Ana aka Anagoesgreen. If you fancy airing your organic wares to us, send us a high resolution pic and a few lines about the featured products to iwantbetterbeauty@souksouk.co.uk
This month we’re also gearing up for Organic Beauty Weekend, September 7-8. Get your hashtag at the ready to take advantage of some great offers, tips and discoveries. We’ll be joining in that weekend with the launch of our... drum roll purlease... brand new, shiny, fabulous website!
Love, Victoria x
02 / E d i t o r ’ s L e t t e r
For all our terms and conditions please visit our website www.souksouk.co.uk All photography Shutterstock unless otherwise stated
- Hot Hot Hot #Blog Love
Keep up to date with the most glamorous of green gossip via USbased Ecorazzi.com. This is how we know our girl crush Maggie Gyllenhaal volunteers at her local NYC organic food shop. Ok, so where’s our nearest farmer’s market? Organic Beauty Weekend Bloom Remedies Daily Moisturiser With gorgeous sweet orange, rose and geranium oils, this certified organic moisturiser has become a staple item on our dressing tables. £10.99 bloomremedies.com
7-8 September The Soil Association launched this new national event to bring green beauty shoppers and organic brands together. Look for the hashtag #OrganicBeauty to take advantage of offers, discover new products and learn more about organic beauty
Last of the summer pinks
#OrganicBeauty
See the summer out in style with these va-va-vibrant pinks. From left to right: Candy Girl blush £7.99 lilylolo.co.uk, Primrose Hill Picnic nail lacquer £11 butterlondon.com, Sublime Lip Shine £17 rmsbeauty.com, Neon Angel £19.95 iliabeauty.com, New Wave Lip Tar £11.95 occmakeup.com
H o t H o t H o t / 03
-Trending
now-
First it was the ombre lip, now it’s the ombre eye...
1. Take two contrasting colours, ideally in bright shades. We like red/orange or yellow/green 2. Take the paler of the two colours and apply to the whole of the lid using a small flat brush. Take the colour to just above the socket line. 3. Apply the same shade to the bottom lide using a small liner brush beneath the lashes and smudge slightly for a soft line 4. Take the second shade and apply to the outer half of the lid, leaving a little of the paler shade visible at the outer edge. Smudge the line where the colours join but don’t blend too heavily or you’ll lose the effect 5. Draw a thin line above the lashes with a dark liner for a dramatic edge and finish with some equally dark mascara. 04 / T r e n d i n g
now
MU A Tips
5
minute masterclass
Nude
nails
Nude nails are sharp, classic, easy-to-wear and here to stay. Nude nails have been big news all summer. And if sneak peeks from the AW13 catwalks of Stella McCartney and Derek Lam are anything to go by, the trend is set to continue. And with a whole raft of varnishes now available that are nourishing and free from nasties there’s almost too much choice! Lacquers to Love We love this new shade from the original 3-free brand. All Hail the Queen is perfect for darker skin tones. £11 butterlondon.com. New to the UK is this 7-Free lacquer. French Rose is great for pale skin. Avril-beaute.fr. An 85% natural formula containing wood pulp, wheat, cotton, potatoes and corn delivers nutrients and is 3 Free. Corso22 £14.95 kurebazaar.com. Indulge your nails with argan oil, gingko biloba and vitamin E with this nourishing lacquer. Skinny Dip £12 evesnow.com
3-Free
Formaldehyde, toluene and dibutyl phthalate. All are known skin irritants and some are potentially carcinogenic.
5-Free
The above plus formaldehyde resin and camphor. The latter is known to cause skin flushing and increased perspiration.
7-Free
The above plus parabens and xylene. Some believe parabens are linked to cancer while xylene is a potentially toxic solvent. M a s t e r c l a s s / 05
Eco Cosmetics
Which
brush?
When it comes to our skincare and cosmetics, we’re quite clued-up on what is good for our skin and the environment. But when it comes to our make-up brushes, we had to ask, ‘how eco can you go?’ We’ve picked our favourite brushes for foundation, eyes and lips, all of which are vegan and cruelty-free. If you’re looking for brushes with some environmental kudos, Ecotools brushes are made using bamboo and recycled aluminium and Bdellium brushes are also made from sustainable bamboo. 06 / E c o C o s me t i c s
Cruelty-free make-up brushes Best for foundation
1. Foundation Brush £8.95 everydayminerals.com 2. Pink Bambu Kabuki brush for powdered mineral foundation £14.95 Bdelliumtools.com 3. Samantha Chapman Stippling Brush £10.95 realtechniques.com 4. Face Contouring brush £11.50 nevecosmetics.it 5. All Purpose Brush £8.49 unebeauty.com 6. Angled Face Brush £10.95 everydayminerals.com
Best for eyes and lips 1. Bamboo Deluxe Concealer Brush £5.99 2. Bamboo Flat Eyeliner Brush £4.99 3. Bamboo Eyeshadow Brush £4.99 all ecotools.com 4. Obsessive Compulsive Cosmetics Lip Brush £14.95 occmakeup.com 5. Retractable Brightening Brush £10.00 rmsbeauty.com
E c o C o s me t i c s / 07
Supersize This
C o u r g e tt e s One of the most versatile veggies around. Super easy to prepare and packed with nutrients
I
f you don’t currently have courgettes (or zucchini) in your diet, you will benefit from working them in. Said to have anti cancer properties that inhibit cell mutation, courgettes can also boost cardiovascular health, containing magnesium and potassium which help to normalise blood pressure. These clever veggies also boast a rich vitamin C content, vitamin E and essential fatty acids.
Courgettes are used worldwide, in French ratatouille, Morrocan tagines, Greek Feta-stuffed zucchini. They are great for bulking out pasta sauces, soups and stir-fries as an easy way to get your five-a-day.
Courgette, broad bean & mint pilaf
Grow your own Courgettes are really easy to grow. In April, plant individual seeds into small pots filled with multi-purpose compost and water well. Keep the seedlings in a sunny place and keep well-watered. After four weeks, start placing the pots outside during the day and bring them inside at night. After a week, transfer the small plants into large plant pots or soil, in a sunny spot and keep watering. Harvest while the vegetables are quite young for the sweetest taste and crunchy texture. 08 / C o u r g e t t e s
Boil 1 cup of rice in vegetable stock. When nearly all the stock has been absorbed, add some frozen peas and pre-cooked broad beans. Cook as the stock is fully absorbed. Fry one chopped courgette in olive oil with garlic. Mix the two together. Sprinkle over some chopped fresh mint and serve with a splash of Greek yoghurt.
The Essentials
Rosemary Oil - Bring out your inner Einstein with this mind-boosting marvel -
This humble, evergreen shrub provides us with the go-to oil for proven stimulation of the mind as well as the body
O
riginally cultivated along the coastlines of the Mediterranean, rosemary has become known worldwide for its woody, intense flavour and aroma when added to foods. What is less well known is that rosemary was originally added to red meat dishes to help our bodies digest the food. And that’s just the start of the many benefits of this amazing herb. Not only is rosemary widely regarded as a digestive aid, it is also used to boost memory and concentration levels, cleanse, detox and strengthen our hair and skin, improve the smell of our breath, boost our immune systems and relieve stress. Being a refreshing, cleansing and antibacterial oil, rosemary is often combined with tea tree, mint and basil oils to address respiratory problems such as sore throats, coughs and colds. It is also antispasmodic so it can be useful for relieving bronchial infections.
DIY Rosemary Mask
Brain boost in a bottle L-R: Rosemary Body Oil, £38 bamfordbody.co.uk, Lavender Rosemary Shampoo £16 and Rosemary Peppermint Detangler £16 johnmasters.co.uk, Rosemary Foot Balm £15.95 drhauschka.com
3 drops Rosemary essential oil 3 drops Lavender oil 2 tbsps clear honey
Mix the ingredients together, apply to the face and relax for 10 minutes, then rinse.
R o s em a r y O i l / 09
Use Rosemary Oil for
Indigestion
Rosemary oil is known to support the digestive system and can help relieve cramps, constipation and bloating. Burn 3-4 drops with a carrier oil and massage into the abdomen.
Boosting memory
Use rosemary oil if you are struggling to concentrate, suffering from forgetfulness or mental fatigue. Inhaling rosemary can help clear the mind and stimulate mental activity. Burn 4-5 drops in a diffuser to focus the mind. Add 2-3 drops to your body moisturiser before applying in the morning
Hair loss & dandruff Stress Relief
Rosemary has been shown to decrease cortisol, a stress hormone which resides in the blood and saliva and can wreak havoc on the body. Add 4-5 drops to hot water and inhale for five minutes to reduce stress. Mix 3-4 drops with some lavender oil and pour into a warm bath for a relaxing soak

Rosemary can be used to stimulate hair follicles, slowing down premature hair loss. It can also help to nourish dry scalps and remove dead skin cells. Mix 3 drops rosemary oil with 2 drops each of tea tree and basil oil and 3-4 tablespoons olive oil and massage into the scalp. Leave for fifteen minutes then rinse and shampoo.
10 / R o s em a r y
oil
Welcome to our world!
1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6.
This month we asked Green Queen & super-blogger Ana, (Anagoesgreenbeautyorganic.blogspot.co.uk) to give us a peek inside her make-up bag... REN Satin Perfection BB cream
“Silicone free and colour adaptive, it makes my skin look fresh without being overdone”
Kjaer Weis Lip Tint in Passionate
“My favourite lip product for a pop of colour and the packaging is luxurious”
NATorigins Mascara
“The first natural mascara that for me rivals conventional brands”
Bodhi Neroli Luce Facial Oil
“Beautifully scented and balances the skin”
Dr Hauschka Bronzing Duo
“Matte and shimmer. Perfect for an orangefree touch of colour”
Lily Lolo blusher in Clementine
“Brightens up the skin and lasts all day”
- an orGLAMic life With the recent Bangladesh factory collapse shining a spotlight once more on fast fashion, we spoke to ethical fashion consultant Jocelyn Whipple about sustainability and her work with Green Carpet Challenge™ campaigner Livia Firth. So Joss, tell us more about what you do...
I
work with ethical fashion brands, retailers and individuals to help them access more sustainable options for their production, merchandise and private wardrobes. One of the biggest obstacles to making fashion sustainable is a lack of information and understanding around the social and environmental impacts that occur throughout the supply chain, from fibre source to market. I work to encourage individuals at every stage to look at and act on the aspects they can affect. It’s often a lot easier than people realise.
The Green Carpet Challenge™ is a way of bringing examples of ethical fashion to celebrity red carpet events and to the attention of fashion editors and shoppers alike. I work with designers and suppliers to help put ethical fashion in the spotlight. Livia Firth (wife of actor Colin) is such an inspiration and a true campaigner who walks her talk and continues to raise awareness of eco fashion. I am often visiting production units or fibre farms and looking at ‘on the ground’ situations. I also do a lot of research looking at the broader subject of sustainability. Right now I’m based in the mountains in Spain for the summer so I have meetings via Skype and spend time balancing work with daily chores and I get to cook every day, which is great. I particularly love, and want to continue working with high end fashion designers such as Leila Hafzi in Nepal. I’d also like to get back into making again, so I’m collecting materials and aiming to make time and space for that. I feel like we are in times of change and lots of people are starting to explore and try new ways of working and living which I find so inspiring. So I want to stay open to the challenges and opportunities that offer me ways to live and expand my work/life as much as possible.
12 / A n O r g l a m i c L i f e
I’m a huge fan of Neals Yard Remedies, particularly their Frankincense range, and Intelligent Nutrients. I take their internal Intellimune Oil™ and I’m a little bit addicted to their Jasmine oil product too.
an or orGLAM GLAMic ic life life -- an
“What is it made of and what’s the impact of that fibre? Even if the answer isn’t eco-correct, the first step is being informed.” Another recent discovery is a wonderful body care range called Nourish; all organic and made in the UK. I use their Golden Glow Toning Souffle for evenings out - it’s the best! I also always have my Helios homeopathic remedy kit with me, which I use all the time for myself and others who need simple treatments. It’s a total saviour and I love it.
Joss’s Beauty Picks
How can shoppers support the fight for sustainable fashion? If there’s one thing that fashion consumers can do to help bring about change, it’s to ask questions like where was it made and what are the working conditions like? What is it made from and what’s the impact of that fibre? How long will I keep it? Even if the answers aren’t ‘eco correct’ or ‘ethically sound’, the first step is being informed. Buy organic cotton wherever possible, avoid synthetic blends and buy 100% fibre garments instead.
Clockwise from top left: Golden Glow Toning Souffle £24.95 nourishskinrange.com, Frankincense Nourishing Cream £21.25 nealsyardremedies. com, Homeopathy Kit £18 helios.co.uk, Jasmine Absolute £61 intelligentnutrients.co.uk A n O r g l a m i c L i f e / 13
Issues
t h at g e t u n d e r o u r s k i n
Petroleum
mineral
An ingredient thought to both moisturise and actively reduce moisture, we look at how petroleum mineral works, what it’s critics are saying and whether the the negative hype is actually true...
S
upermarket shelves are lined with products that contain petroleum or petroleum-derived mineral oil. And despite the distinctly un-cosmetic associations, it has been a key ingredient in cosmetic products for years, decades even, and it still used in many products today. Putting a barrier on the skin only serves to interfere with the body’s natural processes Petroleum minerals are added to such products for their moisturising properties. However, the way petroleum mineral works is to cover the skin with a waxy barrier film, stopping external moisture from penetrating the skin. It is thought that this prevents our skin from breathing and absorbing outside moisture which it needs in order to fight bacteria and infection. It is also thought to be responsible for outbreaks of acne, including blackheads and whiteheads caused by blocking the pores. It is also said that petroleum minerals draw moisture from the skin cells to the surface. Our skin works with our other vital organs, the liver and kidney, to help our body flush out toxins. Putting a barrier on the skin only serves to interfere with the body’s natural processes and trigger skin problems and break-outs. Petroleum mineral is often used in lip products and intensive moisturising products. However, while the products give temporary relief of dryness, it could be that they actually draw moisture away, creating 14 / I s s u e s
t h at g e t u n d e r o u r s k i n
a need to constantly re-apply the product which further disrupts our body’s ability to work properly and heal itself. Petroleum mineral & alcohol One problem with using petroleum mineral as an ingredient is it has a tendency to leave a waxy residue on the skin. Some brands attempt to counteract this effect by adding isopropyl alcohol to products, which is also derived from petroleum and is what gives some products that very potent smell of alcohol.
Issues
t h at g e t u n d e r o u r s k i n
Petroleum mineral & fragrance Petroleum is also used to create aromatic chemicals which are usually termed as ‘fragrance’ when listed on cosmetic product ingredient labels. Hundreds of these chemicals - and combinations of these chemicals, many believed to be untested - can be listed as fragrance and it is likely that all of them are artificial. This is why another ingredient many people have become wary of is ‘fragrance’.
Oil-free and moisture-rich
How do I know if a product contains petroleum mineral oil? Petroleum mineral can be found on product labels listed as petrolatum, mineral oil, fragrance or as a petroleum derivative ‘propylene glycol.’ (Don’t forget, you can always use our Green Beauty Buying Guide in Issue #4). Do I need to avoid it? There have been reports however, arguing that petroleum minerals needn’t be as bad for our skin as these claims suggest. in 2005, the US Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology reported research which found that while industrial grade petroleum mineral is indeed comedogenic (i.e. a cause of blackheads and whiteheads), ‘cosmetic grade’ petroleum mineral is not. So how do we know if a product uses industrial grade or cosmetic grade petroleum mineral? According to the report, consumers should look for cosmetic products described as ‘noncomedogenic’ on product labels. However, a quick Google search brought up very few products describing themselves as such. The Verdict
L-R, T-B: Summer Fruit Lip Balm £5.99 evolutionofsmooth.com, Vanilla Smoochy Lips £4.99 gwdihwbalm.co.uk, Green Tea Lip Balm £3.99 hurrawbalm.com, MOA Green Balm £9.99 thegreenbalm.com, Rosemary Mint balm £4.99 deepsteep.com, Fragrance-free Lip Balm £4.50 balmbalm.com
Without clear labeling it’s difficult to know ingredients cosmetic and toiletry products contain. The best way to be sure we’re avoiding chemicals that may cause adverse reactions, poor results or indeed be harmful, is to look for certification. Bodies like the Soil Association will only certify products that are free from potentially harmful or hazardous ingredients.
Issues
t h at g e t u n d e r o u r s k i n
/ 15
coming soon...
The brand new, fabulous, green & gorgeous www.souksouk.co.uk New Beauty Box packages Exclusive member benefits C ell u l i t e / 16