April 2018

Page 81

Photography by Hawaii Tourism Authority Tor Johnson.

Photography courtesy of Ritz-Carlton Kapalua.

Photography by Hawaii Tourism Authority Tor Johnson.

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APRIL 2018 STLOUISHOMESMAG.COM

The Hawaiian misadventures continued at the Maui Ocean Center, Maui’s top-rated aquarium, another disappointing tourist trap. Burned by the sun and attractions, I returned to my cabana where I met Leko, the 20-something-year-old Hawaiian serving drinks beachside. It’s not what you’re thinking. Leko — whose girlfriend is from St. Louis, of all places — schooled me on Hawaiian culture, saving my vacation, which really got going on night three, at Drums of the Pacific Luau. Leko dances hula and recommend Drums of the Pacific for its authentic dance and old Pacific sounds. “Hula is ancient,” Leko explains. While it might be the beautiful women who catch your eye, the dance stretches back to Hawaiian men — warriors, actually — who danced to tell their stories from battle. From the trumpeting of the conch shell and the sand-baked pig up until the last bits of chanting, the luau changed my perspective on Maui. Make sure to reserve a spot in advance, and pay extra for VIP seating to get dibs on the buffet, plus front-row seating. A real luau, I learned, is just a family party; the Hawaiian version of a backyard barbecue. If you can’t get invited into somebody’s home, Leko recommends town parties held in Wailuku, Lāhainā, and Makawao, every first, second and third Friday, respectively. Another stellar luau is the Old Lāhainā Luau, keyed specifically to Hawaiian lore. “Most people come to Hawaii, and never actually experience the island,” Leko says. One luau later, I was hooked on Hawaii, and ready to venture off the resort. Unless you’re certified, skip scuba, and view corals, sunken ships and sharks on a submarine dive instead; Atlantis Adventures is a reputable provider. Sail with Island Star Excursions, a private charter luxury crewed yacht carrier, and snorkel around Molokini Crater. The folks at Pacific Whale Foundation in Lāhainā will help you enjoy the ocean, which has always anchored Hawaiian culture. Lāhainā is a key stop for history buffs, with a series of museums laid out along Wharf and Front streets on the Lāhainā Historic Trail. Discover Maui’s agricultural heritage, too, touring one or more of the following: Maui Tropical Plantation, Maui


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