{Lexington’s Finest}
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PERFORMANCE RUNS IN THE FAMILY
Like the legendary vehicles that came before them, the F-PACE, E-PACE and I-PACE were bred for agility, power and precision. Combine that with stunning design and the capability of an SUV, and you’ve got a family of vehicles unlike anything else on the road. Visit Jaguar Louisville to experience the 2019 F-PACE, E-PACE and I-PACE. Jaguar Louisville 4700 Bowling Blvd. Louisville, KY 40207 502.895.2451 jaguarlouisville.com
Vehicles shown: 2019 Jaguar F-PACE S, E-PACE R-DYNAMIC HSE and I-PACE HSE. †All prices shown are Base Manufacturer’s Suggested Retail Price. Excludes destination/handling, tax, title, license, retailer fees, all due at signing, and optional equipment. Retailer price, terms and vehicle availability may vary.
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{Lexington’s Finest}
July/August 2019
July/August 2019 five dollars
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on the cover: Go Fore It Lucca Italian Restaurant at Grand Velas. in Puerto Vallarta
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The Shape of Water
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Renee Brinkerhoff Rallies from Peking to Paris
44 Of Note... Ottoman Empire
Big Eat Cioccolatino ottoman from Gugliermetto (g-experience.it). Photo by Alessia Micheletti
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Upping the Ante on Exhilaration
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Of Note... Ottoman Empire
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Bibliotaph... Road Trip
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Go Fore It
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Sea and Be Seen
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A Shiny Jewel
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King of the Jungle
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Hoop Hoop Hooray
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A Twofer for Townend at the Land Rover Kentucky Three-Day Event
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A Family Affair
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Meat Me in Lexington
July/August 2019
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Sophisticated Society
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Nothing Down About It
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KY Bluegrass Wine Auction & Derby Gala
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The Calcutta
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H’Artful of Fun
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Lillies in Lexington
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LexPhil Luncheon
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The Legacy Ball
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EEI Charity Dinner
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Education Builds Hope
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Purses, Pouts & Pearls
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Kiwanis 4 Kids Kasino Night
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Crevoshay koi pendant (crevoshay.com)
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The Horses Are Coming Sophisticated Living Polo World Cup
Tailgating / Field Side Tables / Single Tickets available at SLPOLO.COM
8.31.19
EDITOR - IN - CHIEF Bridget Williams ______________________________________________ ASSOCIATE EDITOR Kay Matton ART DIRECTOR Jason Yann CONTRIBUTORS Writers Patti Bailey Dr. Matthew Bessen Victoria Chase Colin Dennis Scott Harper Andre James Amelia Jeffers Caylee Matthews Photographers Tony Bailey Brianna Cottrell Chad Henle Andrew Kung COPY EDITOR Jennifer Newton EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Claire Williams ADVERTISING SALES OFFICE 502.582.6563 ______________________________________________ CEO/PUBLISHER Eric Williams Sophisticated Living is published by Sophisticated Living, LLC, P.O. BOX 1229, Prospect, Kentucky 40059 USA. All Rights Reserved. Sophisticated Living is published six times a year. All images and editorial are the property of Sophisticated Living, LLC and cannot be reproduced in whole or in part without written permission. Annual subscription fees are $25.00; please add $5 for subscriptions outside the US. Single copies may be purchased for $5 at select fine retail outlets. Address all subscription inquiries to: Sophisticated Living, PO Box 1229, Prospect, KY 40059. To order back issues or reprints of 100 or more, call 502.582.6563.
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From the Editor-In-Chief
Showing Bryan, my daughter's boyfriend, who is the boss.
While most college-aged young people return home for the summer with a load of laundry, my daughter Claire, forever coloring outside the lines, came home with a Frenchman. This grand plan began percolating back in January when Claire and her boyfriend Bryan met me in Paris. As this is her first “official” boyfriend, I was just as nervous about meeting him as he was about making my acquaintance. Adding insult to injury was the fact that his English was abecedarian, and my French is absent. For the first few days, both of us spent a lot of time nodding and smiling politely. Bryan resides in Semur-en-Auxois, a medieval town on the River Armançon in eastern France that has had roughly the same number of residents—around 4,500— since 1793. If it weren’t for the remnants of a 13th century fortified castle, my daughter explained that the rhythm of life there is very much akin to the goings-on in small-town America. Cognizant of the life-transforming power of travel, I quickly jumped on board with the idea of having him visit the United States with her this summer. And, to be honest, getting to see a familiar place through the eyes of someone who is viewing it for the first time is always a thrill for me. From the get-go, the trip provided Bryan with many firsts, including his first time on an airplane. Rock-bottom airfare from Paris to Orlando allowed for a quick stop at the beach so he could dip his toes in the Atlantic (another first) before the three of us road-tripped it back to Louisville, taking as many back roads as possible. As overwhelming as those initial days must have been for him, they were quite entertaining for me. Although I couldn’t figure out the appeal, I was happy to accommodate when he asked me to pull into a random high school parking lot somewhere in rural Georgia so he could take a photo sitting on the hood of a yellow school bus. I smiled as Claire explained the menu at Taco Bell and the concept self-serve fountain drinks in a strange hybrid of French and English. Watching his wide-eyed wonder while roaming the aisles of a Piggly Wiggly during a pitstop is something I won’t soon forget. For the most part, things have gone smoothly, and I applaud Bryan for being a quick-study of the English language. His appreciation for the little luxuries that are part of daily life in the United States has reminded me how very lucky we are, and how often we take everyday comforts for granted. Those of you that have been following my editor’s letters will recall the angst I emoted before my daughter departed for college last fall. My heart goes out to my friends who are getting ready to experience this for the first time in a few short months. Hang in there, and believe me when I say that I was amazed at how quickly I came to embrace my new normal, including the je ne sais quoi summer that came with it.
Bridget Williams Editor-In-Chief
bridget@slmag.net
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2019 RANGE ROVER
ATTRACTION IS ONLY NATURAL
MSRP FROM $94,350 * The 2019 Range Rover delivers unprecedented levels of comfort, entertainment and connectivity. With new Land Rover Touch Pro Duo™ dual touchscreens, being in command has never been so easy.†For passengers, every journey offers an opportunity to take in the scenery through the optional panoramic roof and gesturecontrolled sunblind, catch up on work or entertainment, or rest and relax in one of the reclining seats. See the 2019 Range Rover at Land Rover Louisville today.
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Vehicle Shown: 2019 Range Rover Autobiography. European license plate shown. †Do not use Land Rover InControlÂŽ features under conditions that will affect your safety or the safety of others. Driving while distracted can result in loss of vehicle control. Do not operate, adjust or view the navigation or multimedia systems under conditions that will affect your safety or the safety of others. Only use mobile phones and other devices, even with voice commands, when it is safe to do so. *Price shown is Manufacturer’s Suggested Retail Price for the 2019 Range Rover Autobiography. Supplies are limited. Excludes $1295 destination/handling charge, ĂŒ>Ă?] ĂŒ ĂŒ i] Vi Ăƒi] > ` Ă€iĂŒ> iĂ€ viiĂƒ] > `Ă•i >ĂŒ Ăƒ } }] > ` ÂŤĂŒ > i¾Õ ÂŤ i ĂŒÂ° ,iĂŒ> iĂ€ ÂŤĂ€ Vi] ĂŒiĂ€ Ăƒ > ` Ă›i V i >Ă›> >L ĂŒĂž >Ăž Ă›>ÀÞ° -ii > ` , Ă›iĂ€ Ă• ĂƒĂ› i Ă€ V> xäÓ°n x°Ó{xÂŁ v Ă€ ¾Õ> wV>ĂŒ Ăƒ > ` V ÂŤ iĂŒi `iĂŒ> ĂƒÂ° Š 2018 Jaguar Land Rover North America, LLC
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SOPHISTICATED SOCIETY July 8-13 13 19 20 20 26
Junior League of Lexington Charity Horse Show, Rolex Arena at the KY Horse Park; lexjrleague.com Woodford Humane Society Summer Gala, 7pm, Keene Barn at Keeneland; woodfordhumane.org The Concours Bash, 7pm, The Carrick House; keenelandconcours.com Bourbon & Brews on Broadway for BGT, 6pm, 210 N. Broadway; bluegrasstrust.org Keeneland Concours d’Elegance; keenelandconcours.com Seed to Feed Dinner, 6pm, Ward Hall Manor
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Fayette County Farm Bureau Field to Table Dinner, 6pm, The Kentucky Castle A Midsummer Night’s Run, 4:30pm; amidsummer5k.com CASA of Madison County Superhero Gala, 7pm, EKU Center for the Arts The 44th annual Woodland Art Fair; lexingtonartleague.org Pyramid Society’s 50th Anniversary Celebration, KY Horse Park; pyramidsociety.org 46th annual Kentucky BASH for Easter Seals Cardinal Hill, 6:30pm, Kroger Field; cardinalhill.org
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Photography by Daniel Roberts
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NOTHING DOWN ABOUT IT
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The Down Syndrome Association of Central Kentucky adopted a masquerade theme for its annual Nothing Down About It Gala. Proceeds from the event will allow the organization to continue to provide life-changing programs and services for people with Down syndrome from birth to adulthood.
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1) Damon & Stewart Ditto 2) Jonathan, Ashton Potter and Emily Wright 3) Traci Brewer, Laura Yost, Terri McLean, Courtney Elbert, Hana Toupin, Amanda Kitchin, Morgan Hammons, Danon Ditto 4) Drew & Hannah Couch 5) Grant Allen & Stephanie Haskett 6) Daniel & Alison Wrenne 7) Matt Shorr, Angie Madden 8) Maribeth & Rob Wright
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Join Bridget Williams, Editor-in-Chief of Sophisticated Living, as we launch Sophisticated Experiences, September 25-30, 2019 at The Chilko Experience in British Columbia One of nature’s most magnificent spectacles takes place on the Chilko River in this pristine wilderness area. Hundreds of grizzly bears emerge from the forest to feast on one-million sockeye salmon. On most days, there are more bears than people along the shoreline! Just 12 guests can have the opportunity to witness this wonder as guests of the boutique, all-inclusive Chilko Experience Wilderness Resort. In addition to bear watching and hearty chef-prepared gourmet meals, other guided activities include fishing, kayaking, four-wheeling, hiking, and horseback riding. The cost is $6,950 per person, which includes a scenic charter flight from Vancouver to Chilko.
For more information or to reserve your spot, contact Chilko Experience owner Phil Huston at 888.865.7136 or Chilkophil@gmail.com
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KY BLUEGRASS WINE AUCTION & DERBY GALA
Linda and Jerry Bruckheimer chaired the signature annual fundraising event for the Lexington Cancer Foundation, held at Donamire Farm the Thursday before the Kentucky Derby. Jack Bittner of OVID Napa Valley served as Vintner Chair. More than one million dollars was raised in support of the LCF’s mission to improves the lives of cancer patients and their families.
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1) Aarin & Joe Lakofka 2) Casey & Sarah Wessner, Sarah & Clay Leavell 3) Lucy Faulkner, Ashley Mueller, Lisa Fath, Teresa Taylor, Dana Prather, Mary Wittingham 4) John & Meredith Lesley, Kristin & Dr. Kaveh Sajadi 5) Ron & Lynn Carmicle 6) Kellie & Brian Hart 7) Shelia Bayes, Cooper Stofer, Noelle Dick 8) Lisa & Ryan Atkinson 9) Gayle Schaue, Marty Schlegel
Photography by Daniel Roberts
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THE CALCUTTA
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Held the weekend prior to the Markey Golf Classic, The Calcutta dinner and live auction was held at Castle & Key Distillery. Proceeds from the event benefit the UK Markey Cancer Foundation.
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1) Rob & Ashton Sawyer 2) Courtney Smith, Walker Hancock 3) Jen Roytz, Trisu Mars, Amy Morgan, Jessica Miller, Sarah Ronniger 4) Josefine Young, Anne Murray 5) Benna Denny, Mike Delzotti 6) Wes Murray, Taylor Huber, Chapman Hopkins, 7) John & Lynn Maddox 8) Reed Ringler, Bethany Baker 9) Tom & Lisa Biederman
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H’A RTFUL OF FUN
Celebrating 50 years of the Living Arts & Science Center, the annual H’Artful of Fun gala was an art-filled evening with live and silent auctions, live music and dinner by Dupree Catering.
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1) Karen Johnston, Debra Hughley 2) Craig Carmack, Renee Shepard, Joseph Coleman, Yajaira West 3) Mike & Susan Rogers, Mike & Paige Bensing 4) Erica Marsh, Erin Soloman 5) Aly Foster, Rebecca Hern 6) Drew Gervair and Speedy the snake 7) Tasha & Jay Voskuhl 8) Ellen Williams, Saralyn Kingslover 9) Jocelyn & Adam Trumbo
Photography by Daniel Roberts
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LILLIES IN LEXINGTON
An inaugural event hosted by the Junior Board of Easter Seals Cardinal Hill in celebration of Kentucky Oaks Day, sponsors and guests enjoyed a festive afternoon in the Keeneland Room watching simulcast racing from Churchill Downs. Jimmy Nash Homes was the event’s presenting sponsor.
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1) Terri Stein, Susan Dean, Donna Craven, Amber Peterson 2) Cindy Jacobelli, Dr. Adolph Brown, Morgan Griffey Sharon Michael 3) Megan Hillenmeyer, Kristen Oakley, Lauren Moore 4) Robin Weckley, Brooke Raby, Tiffany Williams 5) Gloria Dawson, Ailsa Smith 6) Gerald Savage, II, Keila Savage, Gerald Savage, III, Sherika Jackson 7) Lauren & Anna Karsen Clements 8) Erika Fischbach, Linda Ball, Mira Ball, Joan Whitman 9) Tracy Dunn, Carey & Dr. Mike Cairo
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Photography by Daniel Roberts
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LEXPHIL LUNCHEON
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Doris Shepherd chaired “Rock the Runway,� a luncheon and runway show at the Carrick House to benefit the Lexington Philharmonic Guild.
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1) Linda Parsley, Hayden Stone 2) Davonna Saier, Shelia Taluskie, Robin Johnson, Susan Neville 3) Marby Schlegel, Gail Hart 4) Stephanie Bell, Sanela Alicusic 5) Sue Scheff, Rusty Hale 6) Carolyn Averett, Maxine Hackbart, Doris Shepherd 7) Betty Hoskins, Lori Douglass 8) Lyle Hildenbrandt, Phyllis Rogers, Donna Stephens
Photography by Daniel Roberts
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THE LEGACY BALL A Derby eve event celebrating the contributions of AfricanAmericans in the equine industry, proceeds from the Legacy Ball, held at Kroger Field, benefit the Legacy Equine Academy (LEA). Ron Mack chaired the event committee, and UK baseball legend Jack Givens served as the official event host. The LEA provides scholarships to in-state universities for racially diverse local students and partners with Fayette County Public Schools to provide educational and work-force development programs,
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1) Ryan Lemond, Steve Coleman, Kim Bottons, Amanda Lemond, Jason & Amanda Wade 2) Lester & Nila Boyd 3) Ty, Tylon & Lonni Webb 4) Nina & Raymond Ross 5) Dale Morgan, Adrienne Bowles 6) Paulette Givens, Lane Embry 7) Alexus Walker, McKenzie Beckham, Abena Ntodi 8) Stoney Mack, Ron Mack, Davonte Robinson 9) Andria & Anthony Jackson
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Photography by Daniel Roberts
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EEI CHARITY DINNER
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Equestrian Events Inc. (EEI), selected Bluegrass Land Conservancy as the official charity of the 2019 Land Rover Kentucky Three-Day Event. A farm-to-table fundraising dinner hosted by EEI was aptly held at Mt. Brilliant Farm, the final home of legendary racehorse Man O’War.
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1) Craig, Brooke & Susan Waldron, Melanie Peterson-Ramey 2) Jamie Dudley, Chrissy Luszczynski, Juliet Taylor, Christina Putz 3) Becky Bowen, Brigitte Kellel, Patti Caputo, Lynn Koop, Cynthia Summers, Christine Martin 4) Shelia Stickler, Cyndi Kurth, Becky Bowen 5) Jessie Wilder, Lee Carter, Resa Browning 6) Maury Sparrow, Shannon Hillenmeyer, Craig Wahlgren 7) Priscilla Grattor, Richard Garrett
Photography by Daniel Roberts
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EDUCATION BUILDS HOPE
Don and Mira Ball were once again the title sponsor of the Education Builds Hope luncheon to benefit One Parent Scholar House. Dr. Adolph Brown, an internationally recognized educator, author, researcher and businessman served as the event’s keynote speaker. Attendees were also inspired by current and former One Parent Scholar House residents who shared their stories.
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1) Terri Stein, Susan Dean, Donna Craven, Amber Peterson 2) Cindy Jacobelli, Dr. Adolph Brown, Morgan Griffey Sharon Michael 3) Megan Hillenmeyer, Kristen Oakley, Lauren Moore 4) Robin Weckley, Brooke Raby, Tiffany Williams 5) Gloria Dawson, Ailsa Smith 6) Gerald Savage, II, Keila Savage, Gerald Savage, III, Sherika Jackson 7) Lauren & Anna Karsen Clements 8) Erika Fischbach, Linda Ball, Mira Ball, Joan Whitman 9) Tracy Dunn, Carey & Dr. Mike Cairo
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Photography by Chad Henle
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PURSES, POUTS & PEARLS
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KIWANIS 4 KIDS KASINO NIGHT
Held at the Carrick House, proceeds from the event will enable the Kiwanis Club of Lexington to continue providing a variety of programs that benefit underprivileged children in Lexington.
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Purses, Pouts & Pearls 1) Kaitlin Musick, Tulsi Patel, Rabiya Syed, Laura Baker 2) Event Committee 3) Bethany Patton, Myrissa Ritter 4) Kayla Weber Nord, Samantha Meyrose 5) Meagan Waltz, Katie Simpson Kiwanis 4 Kids Kasino Night 1) Stephanie & Todd Meyer 2) Laura Van Epps, Cyndi Allen 3) Abby Hillman, Dawson Willis 4) Jack Dillinger, Deanna Dillender, Casie Stevens 5) Wes Allen, Lisa Richardson, Jessica Richardson
Photography by Daniel Roberts
A girls night out featuring great food, cocktails, a silent auction, and PURSE BINGO, all to benefit the American Cancer Society and help Central Kentucky Stay Well, Get Well, Find Cures, and Fight Back.
The Blue Lagoon at sunrise
THE SHAPE OF WATER From ice caves to hot springs, Classic Journeys' multisport adventure trip makes Iceland's myriad natural wonders accessible Written and Photographed by Bridget Williams "I'd been to Iceland before, but I don't really feel like I've seen it until now," uttered one of my fellow travelers, breaking the silence between us as we stood behind a majestic waterfall, mesmerized by the cascade as the icy mist needled our cheeks. For six days, water in all forms formed the crux of our adventures in Iceland. We simmered and subsequently froze in it, slid on it, sloshed through it and marveled at it. Iceland has loomed large on my must-see list for years. The most sparsely populated country in Europe, Mother Nature has endowed its 40,000 square miles with a mind-boggling array of amenities: waterfalls, active volcanoes, glaciers, ice caves, black sand beaches, crystal-clear lakes, and hot springs. While a do-ityourself itinerary is undoubtedly doable, given the country's temperamental weather and vast landscape, I knew I was more likely to encounter trip-busting incidents than happy accidents,
so I turned to the experts in insider travel intel—Classic Journeys—and their multisport itinerary to deliver maximum adventure in the minimal time I had available. Delivering the ultimate insider experience is what drove Edward Piegza, a "reformed" banking executive, to found Classic Journeys in 1995. Tasked with planning group outings for VIP bank clients in his former career, he discovered that his ardor for planning group trips was proportional to his abhorrence of banking. Exhibiting the energy and enthusiasm of a Labrador puppy, Edward's passion is palpable, as is his desire to deliver a truly authentic experience, which he says begins with using local guides. "We have one goal: to hand-craft trips of a lifetime," explained Edward, who added that his guides are empowered by the company to be agile in their decision-making. Their guides always have a Plan B (and even a C and D if needed) to account for the unexpected.
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At the Sólheimajökull Glacier, we were guided by Jon, an accomplished mountaineer.
Edward pointed out that it takes more than a pleasant personality to be an exceptional guide; he and his staff work closely with local guides in 50 countries on six continents to develop Classic Journeys' current roster of 100 distinct itineraries focused on six areas: culture, walking, culinary, family, multisport, alumni and incentive. "We kiss a lot of frogs and make the mistakes ahead of time so that our trips run seamlessly for guests," he said. Edward's personal desire to experience an upscale trip that is both physically and mentally engaging reflects the interests and expectations of the typical Classic Journeys' client. "I like to get muddy during the day, but I want to sleep on Egyptian cotton sheets at night." There is something incredibly freeing about a fully supported trip; not having to mind the minutiae frees the mind to drink in every delightful detail. Our group was greeted at the airport in Reykjavik by Atli, our guide for the week. A dyed-in-the-wool native of Iceland whose ancestry can be traced back to 9th century Vikings, Atli is a life-long lover of adventure, and the outdoors, fishing, mountaineering, a teacher of history and geology, and an all-around nice guy. The senior tour leader and resident expert guide for Classic Journeys, Atli helped lead the charge to establish the Vatnajökull National Park, which makes up about 14% of Iceland's landmass and includes the largest glacier in Europe. Our group eased into the 6 day/5 night itinerary with breakfast at a Viking museum, just as the slivers of sunlight begun to emerge from underneath the blanket of night. Our transport for 34 slmag.net
Atli demonstrating Iceland's version of a Lay-Z-Boy—volcanic rocks covered in spongy lichen.
the duration of the trip was a posh WIFI-enabled 4X4 Mercedes Benz Sprinter van. While we relaxed and admired the scenery, Atli entertained us with stories of growing up in Iceland, including skinny dipping in the famous Blue Lagoon before it became a popular tourist pilgrimage site, as well as tales of legend and lore. His talk of trolls and "hidden people," had me convinced I could discern shadowy figures in the moss-covered lava fields. From that point onward, I thought twice about disturbing a rock, lest I face the wrath of a troll who might be residing there! There is no bad weather, only bad gear, is a Classic Journeys' mantra. To help their clients avoid the pitfalls of underpacking or the hassles of overpacking, they offer a gear valet program that can outfit you with the appropriate attire to combat every imaginable weather scenario. While you can rent gear just for the duration of the trip, I fell in love with my tough-as-nails parka and rain pants from Iceland's Icewear company and opted for a more long-term arrangement. Our itinerary included Iceland's notable attractions both inside and out of the famed Golden Circle sightseeing route. We were one of the first groups through the door at the Blue Lagoon, which allowed us to enjoy the thermal waters before the place was overrun with visitors. Spying a waterfall in Iceland is like stumbling across a cathedral in Europe. They're everywhere, and we managed to see quite a few from all angles: below, above and behind.
Kirkjufells waterfalls on the Snaefellsnes Peninsula Photo courtesy of Classic Journeys.
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The start of our hike on the Sรณlheimajรถkull Glacier
Skogafoss waterfall
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"Blue Crush" ice formation on the Vatnajรถkull Glacier
Reynisfjara black-sand beach
The window of opporrunity to see the Northern Lights is typically late August through late April. Photo courtesy of Classic Journeys
We explored glaciers in a similar all-around fashion. At the Sólheimajökull Glacier, Atli arranged for Jon, one of Iceland's most accomplished mountaineers and respected experts on glaciers, to lead a three-hour trek atop the glacier, complete with crampons and ice axes. We ventured deep into an ice cave at the Vatnajökull Glacier, admiring the obsidianlike surface created by the compression of water and volcanic ash. We also stopped at "Blue Crush," a cerulean chunk of ice sculpted by the elements to resemble a curling wave. A temporary installation, the ice formations will morph and melt as time goes on and temperatures rise. Atli likened the notoriety of the Reynisfjara black-sand beach to the Coliseum in Rome. As our footprints pressed a fresh layer of snow into the sand, the resulting mixture resembled crushed Oreo cookies. Most tourists cluster at the entrance, so it's easy to find a sense of solitude by taking a short stroll down the beach in either direction while pondering the jet-black geology of the substrate, which gradually transitions from grainy sand to smooth pebbles. During one late afternoon drive, the weather changed on a dime from sunshine to a whiteout, and Atli remained unflappable. As night fell and the torrent of snowflakes reflected off of the headlights, he joked that we now know what Hans Solo felt while piloting the Millennium Falcon. Already happy that I wasn't
behind the wheel, spying the occasional rental car off the side of the road only deepened my appreciation for our guide. With much of the country sparsely populated, finding the best lodging options isn't always easy. Classic Journeys carefully vets its hotel partners to make sure they meet exacting standards and contribute to the uniqueness of the experience. "We like to call it 'refraining from sameness,' "explained Edward. Our trip included stays at both Hotel Ranga and Skalakot Manor Hotel. Hotel Ranga is full of quirky personality reflective of its jocular owner, who provided me with my first taste of Iceland's Black Death. Contrary to its menacing name and labeling, Black Death, also known as Brennivín, is a popular traditional distilled beverage flavored with caraway, and not the plague. A short walk from the hotel is a cabin with a retractable roof and a high-tech telescope, allowing you to ogle the night sky in a whole new way. If Ralph Lauren designed a hotel in Iceland, it would surely resemble the chic Skálkot Manor Hotel. Set on a working multigenerational family farm with sheep, cuddly Icelandic horses, and miles of trails for exploring. Spending one afternoon on horseback, we spied the snow-capped "tongue" of a nearby glacier that seemed to lap at hills defined by tuffets of straw-colored grass that proved irresistible to my steed. I made judicious use of free time in the itinerary by taking a canyon hike and later a run to a waterfall, where I relished in being its solitary admirer. slmag.net
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Snorkeling in the crystal-clear and near-freezing water above Silfra, the fissure that marks the separation of the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates.
Farm-fresh lamb burger at Skรกlkot Manor Hotel
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Curious barnyard residents on the farm at Skรกlkot
Riding Icelandic horses on the gentle slopes of the Eyjafjöll mountains
Meals each day were full of memorable and hearty local fare. During a picnic atop a glacier, Atli presented us with samples of kleinur, an Icelandic pastry flavored with cardamom (which I loved), as well as fish jerky (which I would say is more of an acquired taste). We feasted on fresh-caught langoustine the cozy Fjöruborðið restaurant and farm-fresh lamb at Skalakot. Because pre-planning on the part of the team at Classic Journeys is thorough, those with dietary restrictions were amply accommodated. "Iceland is one of those places people may only go once. We want to make sure they are getting a real immersion while they're here," said Edward. Our last day came with the option to explore the continental divide in Þingvellir National Park— a UNESCO World Heritage Site—on foot or by floating. I chose the latter, which allowed me to snorkel in some of the world's purest water, leaving me feeling
as if I were floating on air above Silfra, the fissure that designates the separation of the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates, which continue to move apart at a rate of 2.5 centimeters a year. Definitely not for the faint of heart, the water temperature hovers just above freezing (hello ice cold facial!), and there was quite a lot of effort involved in stuffing myself into the dry suit, but I wasn't about to miss the grand finale of an action-packed trip that made me feel like a traveler and not just a tourist. For more information, visit classicjourneys.com. sl Getting There: The sudden closure of WOW Air this past March stranded passengers on both sides of the Atlantic and grabbed headlines around the globe. Intrepid travelers needn't fear, as Icelandair, which celebrated its 80th anniversary in 2017, offers transatlantic routes from 24 European and 21 North American gateways. You can even make a day trip to Iceland an add-on to a broader European adventure with a range of distinct Stopover campaigns, all for the price of a flight ticket. Icelandair passengers can call the Buddy Hotline for personalized planning of their stopover. And, you won't mind getting to the airport two hours early when you have access to the comfy and chic Saga Lounge at Keflavik Airport (Icelandair.com)
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RENEE BRINKERHOFF RALLIES FROM PEKING TO PARIS One woman’s determination pushes new boundaries in automotive racing and social issues Written by Deb Pollack / Photos courtesy of Valkyrie Racing When Colorado-based philanthropist and mother-of-four Renee roads that claimed several crews on day one. Her class made her Brinkerhoff decided to race in the legendary and highly dangerous the only female driver to accomplish this feat. Further success in La Carrera Panamericana rally in 2013 at the age of 57 – not only subsequent years encouraged her to look at challenges further afield, was she a rookie on a race track, but sheWritten had yetby to Andre ever experience and a plan was hatchedSpA to race on every continent: Project 356 James / Photos courtesy of Pininfarina a road race – let alone a 2,000-mile racing challenge. As the founder World Rally Tour. of Valkyrie Racing, Brinkerhoff has exceeded her dreams and all To help achieve her goal, Brinkerhoff partnered with leading expectations by earning class victories in the famed Mexican race specialists in rally car competition, including famed rallyist and four years in a row and made history as the ‘only woman to finish Porsche restoration master Richard Tuthill -- and she soon began the race’ each year she has partaken. racing the car all over the world. The story captured unexpected With a self-imposed challenge to complete six races across media attention, which the savvy sixty-something soon realized seven continents, at press time, Brinkerhoff was embarking on her could be used to draw attention to worthy causes in the areas she next challenge along that path: the month-long Peking to Paris intended to race. A philanthropic wing – ‘Valkyrie Gives’ - was rally. She hopes to continue her winning ways while extending formed to assist in directing financial support and donations to the her charitable mission on a global level through her dedication charities closest to Brinkerhoff’s heart: countering child exploitation to fight child trafficking, a cause she has already championed in and human trafficking in poorer parts of the world. Mexico, Australia, and Peru. “I had so much spare energy and personal time when my Brinkerhoff made her driving debut in Mexico behind the children left home,” said Brinkerhoff. “I initially filled this with wheel of a 1956 Porsche 356A, navigating treacherous mountain rallying – an incredibly exciting passion which requires immense 40 slmag.net
focus and courage – but I knew there was more I could do. We started by exposing the audience that was building around our story to important social issues and asking for help to make peoples’ lives better." Brinkerhoff began researching social problems in the countries she was rallying through, finding that child trafficking was a significant issue across the Americas, where she was participating in two rallies: Mexico for the La Carrera and Peru for Camino del Incas. Looking at the racing calendar, Renee noted that similar issues are found in Asia, where she will race on the Peking to Paris Rally in June and July, and also in East Africa, where she will be racing in late 2019 as part of the East African Safari Classic Rally. “Understanding the scale of these problems and how a lack of transparency and education keeps children in danger from exploitation and trafficking, we reached out to some of the agencies on the ground in our target areas, to figure out ways we could help by pooling our resources,” she explained.
During each rally, Valkyrie Racing gives financial support to carefully vetted charitable efforts active in preventing or intervening in trafficking operations and restoring victims of trafficking. These charities provide education, rescue victims, provide legal assistance and travel funds to repatriate victims and nurture and counsel them after their rescue, for a healthy and productive future. Brinkerhoff’s goal through Valkyrie Gives is to bring comfort to those in need, working to identify children at risk and working to secure and protect them. Efforts have included funding trafficking investigators and rescuers and obtaining the latest technology so that charities can match the traffickers on a technological level. Valkyrie Racing is proactive in rural communities, taking rain boots to remote Quechua communities in Peru, and using the opportunity to educate children on their right to be safe, and when to report issues to trusted authority figures. Learn more about the exciting story of Valkyrie Racing and follow Renée Brinkerhoff’s progress on the team website at racevalkyrie.com. sl slmag.net
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UPPING THE ANTE ON EXHILARATION Aston Martin Vantage AMR Written by Andre James / Photos courtesy of Aston Martin Launched ahead of the penultimate round of the FIA World Endurance Championship Super Season – a world where Aston Martin Racing competes with the Vantage GTE – the Vantage AMR delivers an extra dose of excitement with the addition of a third pedal and manual transmission. The heart of the Vantage AMR is a 4-liter twin-turbo V8 engine, which is set as low and as far back in the chassis as possible to create near perfect 50:50 weight distribution. This high performance, high-efficiency engine propels the two-door coupe from 0-60mph in 3.9 seconds, and 0-62mph in 4.0 seconds, with a top speed of 195mph. Vantage AMR is equipped with a motorsport-inspired 7-speed transmission developed by Graziano, featuring a ‘dog-leg’ first gear. Inside, the driver is presented with the opportunity to deliver each gear via a hand-stitched leatherclad gearstick. Second to seventh gears are positioned in a traditional double H-pattern configuration. Vantage AMR’s transmission is mated to a limited-slip differential, tuned and calibrated by Aston Martin’s leading dynamics team, to ensure the rewarding and engaging experience expected of a manual. The manual transmission features the driver-selectable AMSHIFT, which uses the clutch, gear position, and prop shaft sensors, together with a finelytuned engine management program to mimic the technique of heel-and-toe downshifts. AMSHIFT also offers the capability of full-throttle upshifts for maximum smoothness and minimal interruption in acceleration. Skyhook technology, part of Aston Martin’s latest adaptive damping system, offers Sport, Sport + and Track modes to ensure the car’s character can be tuned to the driver’s preference or road conditions. Limited to 200-units, Vantage AMR is available in five designer specifications. 141 of those 200 will be available in either Sabiro Blue, Onyx Black, China Grey or White Stone, with a recommended retail price from $179,995. The remaining 59 will sport details that commemorate the 60th anniversary of Aston Martin’s 1959 24 Hours of Le Mans victory with DBR1. Named “Vantage 59”, this fixed specification features a Stirling Green and Lime exterior paint scheme and Dark Knight leather and Alcantara interior, finished with a signature AMR lime stripe and stitch, and is priced $204,995. Deliveries are scheduled to begin during the final quarter of 2019. sl
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Of Note... Ottoman Empire
Compiled by Colin Dennis
Clockwise from top left: Ashton ottoman from Massoud (massoudfurniture.com). Ottoman designed by NoĂŠ Duchaufour-Lawrance for Ligne Roset (ligne-roset.com). Kira Tibetan fur ottoman from Mitchell Gold + Bob Williams (mgbwhome.com). Small and large Lawrence footrests in silver technical shagreen fabric from Armani Casa (armani.com/casa). Lots Road ottoman from Dowel Furniture (from $900; dowelfurniturecompany.com). Lola ottoman from Bradley Furniture (bradleyusa.com).
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Clockwise from top left: In/Out ottoman from Gugliermetto (g.experience.it). Greta cocktail ottoman from Hancock & Moore (hancockandmoore.com). Bubblegum Portrait ottoman from Mineheart ($250; mineheart.com). Gus Modern Sparrow ottoman ($499; gusmodern.com). Wells Diamante ottoman from Missoni Home (missionihome.com). Mindthegap Nomad Hindustan vintage linen ottoman (mindtheg.com). Embrace cocktail table ottoman from Koket (bykoket.com). MacKenzie Childs Moonlight Garden footstool ($795; mackenzie-childs.com).
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Bibliotaph... Road Trip
Compiled by Victoria Chase
A celebration of life on the move, this book features vans, overland vehicles and their passionate owners as they embark on adventures around the globe. Gestalten—Hit the Road: Vans, Nomads, and Roadside Adventures— hardcover, 272 pages, Gestlaten (us.gestalten.com) The first gasoline was sold in pharmacies. As the car experienced an exponential rise in popularity, gas stations promulgated as temples of mobility. With a preface written by passionate car collector Jay Leno, this book explores the diverse world of the gas station, from functional high-tech temple to an abandoned ruin. Gestalten & Sascha Friesike—It's a Gas!: The Allure of the Gas Station— hardcover, 240 pages, Gestalten (us.gestalten.com) Since the early 2000s, an explosion of interest in Volkswagens with original paint, rust and patina have inspired a generation of car fanatics. Once looked upon as needing restoration, these vehicles, especially within the global Volkswagen community, have gradually become more popular than restored cars. These rare, unspoiled survivors tell a story of an interesting and varied past. This book takes an inside look at key car builders, dealers, celebrities and hobbyists, as well as the different styles of build, meaning every single car has a style all its own. Mark Walker — Patina: Volkswagens — hardcover, 160 pages, Veloce (veloce.co.uk)
The American charm of Robert Frost's iconic poem is paired with impactful images from the mountains of New Hampshire to the streets of India. Available in October. Robert Frost—The Road Not Taken: The Classic Poem in Words and Photographs— hardcover, 224 pages, Cider Mill Press (cidermillpress.com)
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bib 'li' o 'taph, [bib-lee-uhtaf, -tahf ]: a person who caches or hoards books
Created by photographer and art historian Dr. Fred Sigman, this book is an ode to a bye-gone era and a reflection on America's iconic automobile culture. Sigmans' photographs capture the praised architectural vernacular that once dominated Sin City's skyline and served as the foundation for today's mega-resorts. Dr. Fred Sigman—Motel Vegas— hardcover, 200 pages, Smallworks Press (smallworkspress.com)
Jeff Gordinier, food and drinks editor of Esquire and a frequent contributor to the New York Times chronicles the four years he spent traveling with renowned Danish chef René Redzepi in search of the most tantalizing flavors the world has to offer. Jeff Gordinier—Hungry: Eating, Road-Tripping, and Risking It All with the Greatest Chef in the World—hardcover, 240 pages, Penguin Random House (penguinrandomhouse.com) In May 2007, with her husband as co-pilot, Dina Bennett was behind the wheel of a 1940 Cadillac LaSalle, one of 128 antique autos racing in the Peking to Paris Motor Challenge. Bennett's resulting book is both funny and self-deprecating. She says it was written for “every woman who's ever doubted herself and any man who's wondered what the woman traveling with him is thinking.” Dina Bennett—Peking to Paris: Life and Love on a Short Drive Around Half the World—hardcover, 280 pages, Skyhorse Publishing (skyhorsepublishing.com) The opening of America's interstate highway system in the 1950s ushered in the road trip phenomenon. Author Richard Ratay contends that families didn't so much take vacations as survive them. This lighthearted trip down memory lane chronicles what made the Great American Family Road Trip so great. Richard Ratay—Don't Make Me Pull Over: The Informal History of the Family Road Trip—hardcover, 288 pages, Scribner (simonandschusterpublishing.com)
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GO FORE IT
With unlimited golf on three courses and an onsite kitchen garden, Casa Velas resort in Puerto Vallarta makes it easy to get your greens Written by Caylee Matthews It took less than an hour for me to go from planeside to poolside at Casa Velas, an 80-suite boutique hotel and spa located just five minutes from Puerto Vallarta's international airport and discreetly integrated within an upscale residential neighborhood alongside the greens of Marina Vallarta's 18-hole golf course. The ease with which you can slip into this adults-only, all-inclusive paradise, where colorful peacocks meander through lush tropical landscaping, makes it ideal for a quick battery-charging getaway. Part of the Velas Resorts group, whose tagline is "Beyond All Inclusive, Beyond Compare," guests at Casa Velas have access to big resort amenities in a boutique setting. All-inclusive rates include luxury suite accommodations; a la carte gourmet meals at a variety of specialty restaurants, including dining privileges at sister resorts, Grand Velas Riviera Nayarit and Velas Vallarta; unlimited golf at Marina Vallarta and Vista Vallarta 48 slmag.net
golf clubs (excluding cart fee); shuttle service and access to the private Ocean Club; premium branded beverages; 24-hour in-suite service; a well-equipped fitness center; a comprehensive lineup of weekly events; and, taxes and gratuity. Traditional Mexican colors and furnishings define the dĂŠcor in the spacious guest accommodations. Whimsical in-room artwork by sculptor Sergio Bustamante is one of many ways that Mexican culinary, artistic, and cultural traditions are woven into the guest experience. A recently unveiled pair of 1,350-squarefoot Wellness Suites reflect a property-wide commitment to wellness. Each suite is complemented by a dedicated Wellness Concierge; in-suite fitness amenities; a private plunge pool and rooftop Jacuzzi; bespoke soaps created from local botanicals; a Nikken Kenko sleep system; and an Alchimia Apothecary essential oil aromatherapy kit.
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The lineup of complimentary weekly activities is always evolving. Those interested in local culture can partake of a micro-adventure to a local Huichol village that begins with an ancient energy cleansing ritual performed by a shaman. Of note to art enthusiasts is a guided tour of the weekly art and crafts market in nearby Marina Vallarta, as well as a two-hour art gallery tour of downtown Puerto Vallarta, and an hourlong themed art workshop with artist LeĂłn de la Vega. Founder of Estudio-cafĂŠ, a cultural center that promotes local artists, authors, and environmental activities, de la Vega's program is accompanied by tastings of Mexican wines to help get your creative juices flowing. Every evening at 6pm, guests assemble on the large terrace, which is bordered by a serpentine-shaped koi pond, to participate in an interactive activity that can range from margarita samplings to a casino night, where "winnings" can be redeemed in the boutique, which has a thoughtful selection of locally made jewelry. The boutique is also where guests can partake of the designer Handbag Bar, a program that allows guests to borrow from a revolving selection of 13 different designer handbags. 50 slmag.net
The roots of the culinary program are found in the kitchen garden, tucked away in a quiet corner of the property. Each of the 49 varieties of herbs, vegetables, and fruits are clearly marked, and in season, guests have the opportunity to select their favorite fruits and vegetables to create their own fresh-squeezed juice blend or personalized craft cocktail. Casa Velas recently launched six new five-course gourmet tasting menus at its Emiliano restaurant. Built around the cuisines of France, Italy, the Mediterranean, and Mexico, each is overseen by head chefs from its sister resort, the AAA Five Diamond Grand Velas Riviera Nayarit. Distinctive food and beverage offerings also extend to the pools at both Casa Velas and the Ocean Club. Quench your thirst by choosing from a selection of nine infused teas from Casa Velas' iced tea bar. Twice a day, poolside palette carts at Casa Velas dole out the Latin American ice pop made from fresh fruit. The Coco Cart at the Ocean Club serves food and cocktails from a fresh halved coconut collected on the property. Other posh poolside pleasures include foot rubs, butler service, and manicures and pedicures. At night, the
Ocean Club becomes the ideal destination for a romantic sunset dinner. Taking advantage of dining privileges at nearby Velas resorts permits you to take a journey for all of the senses at Sen Lin, the newest restaurant to open at Grand Velas Riviera Nayarit. The warm and exotic environs are a perfect backdrop for an Asianinspired menu that plays on modern textures and original presentations with traditional ingredients. For a fun night in, you can opt for a gourmet DIY taco bar from room service, complete with creative meat and vegetable fillings, and sublime sauces such as Xni-Pec, made with purple onion and habanero chili peppers. Guacaholics should plan to check into Casa Velas in September for Guacamania, their property-wide celebration of the green fruit, which runs the gamut from ceviche to the spa. To up the ante on relaxation, opt for a treatment at the 6,500 square-foot SPA Casa Velas, which incorporates botanicals from the garden into many of the 60 available holistic spa treatments for face and body. Before my Harmony massage, which included hot stone therapy and lots of TLC for my tootsies, I partook of a
guided hydrotherapy journey that included prescribed time in a sauna, pressure shower, steam room with eucalyptus inhalation, and Jacuzzi. I will admit to not being a big fan of saunas, but having an attendant come in and place cucumbers over my eyes and a cooling aloe vera compress on my forehead halfway through made the experience much more soothing. While I was perfectly content whiling away my short stay ensconced in a lounge chair by the pool or the ocean, the concierge at Casa Velas can help organize unique adrenalinepacked off-property experiences for those seeking more uplifting experiences for their downtime. These include a surf and turf package that combines a six-hour fishing trip and a cook-yourcatch dinner; bungee jumping at Banderas Bay; skydiving; a babymoon package with specialty spa treatments, a photoshoot and personalized healthy dining options; and a cultural tour package with a visit to the historic town of San Sebastian del Oeste, located in the Sierra Madre Mountains. All-inclusive rates start at $268 per person per night based on double occupancy. For more information or reservations, visit hotelcasavelas.com. sl slmag.net
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SEA AND BE SEEN
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Clockwise from top left: Michael Aram sterling silver Ocean Caged bracelet ($1,525; michaelaram.com). Bibi van der Velden shell Bangle ($5,115; bibivandervelden.com). Roqayas Rocks Golden Reef necklace (roqayasrocks.com). Bibi van der Velden Mammoth Sea Horse ring ($5,500; bibivandervelden.com). Large Lunasea hoops from RENNA (rennajewels.com). Seal ring from DeGrisogono's Mascote Collection (degrisogono.com). Dudley Van Dyke Pisces pendant ($5,750), and Kristopher Double Albert chain ($9,800; dudleyvandyke.com). Opposite page: Annette Ferdinandsen Coral Stick earrings ($990; annetteferdinandsen.com). Breguet 9518BR Marine ladies wristwatch with mother-of-pearl hand-engraved "marea" wave motif on dial (breguet.com). Katey Walker pearl, pink sapphire, and pink conch drop earrings (kateywalker.com). Morning Glory ring from Aida Bergsen with diamonds, green garnets, enamel, coral and pearls (aidabergsen.com). Octopus ring from Caratell (caratell.com). Sea Turtle Caret earrings from Begum Khan ($15,400; begumkhan.com).
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The private island called Acasi is reserved exclusively for guests of Casa San Agustin.
A SHINY JEWEL
A milestone birthday is celebrated with a trip to Cartagena Written and Photographed by Carrie Edelstein "I need to get to Cartagena to save my sister!" I'm embarrassed to admit it, but all I knew about Colombia was from the 1984 film Romancing the Stone, in which Kathleen Turner embarks on a journey to Cartagena to find her kidnapped sister. So, when my mother said she wanted to celebrate her 70th birthday in Cartagena, I was a bit apprehensive. Her requirements were "a city with rich culture, history, shopping, and a beach." A friend suggested Cartagena, and despite booking our airfare and hotel months in advance, I didn't know anything about the city until we got off the plane. It was the first time I traveled blindly and just assumed all would go as planned. Aboard the plane, I sat next to my sister and a gentleman from Chicago. He was traveling via Miami with a group of five married couples. They too chose Cartagena for its cultural appeal and the promise of turquoise beaches. He said they didn't want to "do CancĂşn" again; they wanted somewhere different, yet close to the United States. Just minutes past the airport, there was a colorful and Instagram-worthy "Welcome to Cartagena" sign on the beach. The oceanfront views were not spectacular initially. While there were umbrellas and chairs set up with dozens of beach-goers, it was clear the more picturesque areas would be a boat ride away. 54 slmag.net
After a few quick turns within the walled parameters of Old Town, we arrived at Casa San Agustin, perhaps the most beautiful and intimately luxurious boutique hotel I've ever visited. It is owned by Mr. Woods Staton, a wealthy global businessman from MedellĂn, Colombia. Behind the armed street-front gate, we were greeted by a kind and welcoming staff. After a soothing drink of cucumber, mint, and other fresh ingredients (the water is 100% fine to drink for travelers), we went up a flight of steps to our three-bedroom suite. The atrium style of the hotel, which encompasses a pool and 16th-century wall supporting the newer parts of the building, afforded a slight breeze to interject the hot and humid air; guest rooms are perfectly air-conditioned and cooled with fans. After changing into cooler clothes, we headed back outside and explored the endless streets of shops, restaurants, street vendors, and food stands. The locals were young; no one appeared to be over the age of 40, aside from a handful of business owners. We later learned that a 70-year-old in Cartagena is generally confined to a wheelchair or walker and closer to the end of life, rather than celebrating in a foreign city like my mom was.
The religious complex of La Popa dates back to 1607. The convent faced multiple attacks and invasions throughout the centuries. Today, locals make an annual pilgrimage up Mount Popa where one can see a spectacular view of all of Cartagena.
We shared appetizers at one of the many outdoor eateries which were just getting started with live music, watched horsedrawn carriages go past, and did what you do in a new city: ogle at everyone and then hit all of the street vendors. It was difficult saying "no gracias" to those sweating to make a few pesos. The next few days were filled with private guides, must-see itineraries, and magical experiences. One of our tour guides drove us up Mount Popa for a scenic view below of Cartagena as well as a stroll through the convent at the top of the hill, which dates back to the early 1600s. We learned the skyline of Cartagena is not defined by buildings for business, but rather apartment living. Later, we stopped at the Castillo San Felipe de Barajas, an imposing fortress in the middle of the city from the 1500s, built by the Spaniards who had invaded the area. Lunch and dinner spots of note included Cocina de Pepina, where we had our first taste of Colombian coconut rice and local seafood, and Lobo De Mar on Calle del Santísimo. A band at the latter played a sultry version of a popular song from the '80s: "Un Monton De Estrellas," by Polo Montañez. I sensed from the crowd's reaction that this is similar to hearing an amazing local band sing Air Supply's "All Out of Love." Another nearby
One could spend an entire day roaming the streets of Getsemani, the art district of Cartagena. The walled city center is filled with vibrant decorations, mural art, and opportunities to sneak a look inside businesses and residences with open doors.
restaurant we enjoyed was Cande, which featured Caribbean food, colonial architecture and a live dance show. Many of our meals were taken in Alma, the hotel's primary restaurant. Cherry juice was a popular choice among the featured fresh juices offered each morning as part of the breakfast buffet. A must-have is the traditional Cartagena breakfast, featuring an egg inside an arepa with sausage and sweet corn bollo. Our third day was one I will likely remember for the rest of my life. We chartered a boat through Boats 4 U to take us to Acasi, the hotel's private island. I was nervous about being on a boat in the middle of the ocean without my children, and even more so when we were told at the dock that our captain did not speak English. Pointing to a young man at the check-in area who spoke English, my mom took the words out of my mouth when she asked if he could join us. The dock manager let us "abduct" Andréas, who said he was "about to have the best day of his life," as he had never been to Acasi until that day. Once the marina was out of view and the boat increased its speed, Andréas tried to calm me down by saying in a thick accent, "Yesterday you did not have this experience, and today you do, and it's going to be incredible." He was right not just about the boat ride, but the entire trip to Cartagena. slmag.net
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La Gorda Gertrudis is a statue by Fernando Botero that rests in the Plaza de Santo Domingo.
Baruco By Cuzco in Old Town is one of dozens of delightful restaurants serving up Colombian cuisine with a Caribbean atmosphere.
A sampling of homemade dried and sugared fruits in different flavors for sale in the marketplace near La Torre del Reloj (Clock Tower Gate).
"The Cartagena Breakfast" consists of an arepa with egg , carimaĂąolas (a typical sausage), sweet corn bollo and local cheese.
"Adidas Superstar Colors" or Pura Apariencia, is a piece of art comprised of shoes with acrylics by Laura Castro. La Presentacion Art Gallery is on the main floor of the El Claustro Hotel House, just one block up and over from Casa San Agustin.
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A typical local dish served at the private kitchen at Acasi. Staff live on the island for a month at a time, waiting to delight tourists with cuisine and hospitality.
The wall inside the pool dates back to the 16th century when it functioned as part of an aqueduct. Formerly used as an apartment building, it has been the Casa San Agustin hotel for six years.
It took about 45 minutes to get to the Islas de Rosario (Rosario Islands), which included a close look at Pablo Escobar's abandoned secret island mansion. I loved asking the tour guides to tell stories of Escobar; they were all different, filled with animation and likely embellished details. We snorkeled around the islands before stopping at Acasi. There, we were greeted by a host who led us through a short trail to a small restaurant and beachside seats where we spied just one other couple there from our hotel. The sand was soft and light, and the water was warm, calm, and turquoise-colored. After a swim, we sat down for a typical Colombian lunch with assorted kinds of seafood, plaintains, coconut rice, exotic fruits, and squid served in a coconut shell. We were told the chef stays on the island for a month at a time to prepare for guests. The next day, we toured the art district of Getsemani, once again "abducting" a local; this time, the hotel's private driver, Roberto. We gave him a list of places to take us with our guide who had greeted us without a car. In Getsemani, there is street after street of colorful walls, flowered balconies, mural art, shops, galleries, and eateries. On what would seem like a dangerous street filled with graffiti, a local approached us with a smile saying "Bienvenidos," or "welcome to the area."
From tasteful graffiti to colorful walls and flowered balconies like those in New Orleans every street is worth exploring. Don't forget to watch out for cars and bicyclists zipping down the narrow streets as you look around.
A famous Salsa singer, a Colombian Pocahontas, and various images of social movements decorate the walls at Plaza de la Trinidad. We stopped in a local gallery to see artists at work; in another, a music video was being filmed. The famed Gertrudis statue by Botero rests back in Old Town in the Plaza de Santo, near a few smaller museums. One of our favorites in that area was a rotating exhibit inside El Claustro Hotel House. We spent the last hours of our vacation shopping for emeralds. While I'm not one to shop and tell, I highly recommend the Caribe Jewelry family for quality jewels. A set of brothers owns the business, and they can make anything you'd like during your stay as well as educate visitors on how to buy emeralds and where in the world to find the best ones (Colombia, Zambia, Pakistan, and Russia). The one suggested tourist attraction we did not see? The Totumo Mud Volcano. Google some blogger experiences though, and you might leave it off your list as well. I would highly recommend exploring Cartagena. The U.S. dollar is strong, the culture is rich, the locals are extremely friendly, and it's beautiful— like a small European city infused with vibrant Caribbean flare. We certainly had a great time, and most importantly, our safety was never in question. sl slmag.net
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KING OF THE JUNGLE The new Land Rover Defender Competes Tusk Testing to Support Lion Conservation in Kenya Written by Andre James / Photos courtesy of Land Rover Eagerly anticipated by fans of the iconic off-road vehicle, Land Rover inched closer to production of its newest iteration of the Defender with the successful completion of a demanding testing program in Africa. Carried out at the Borana Conservancy in Laikipia, Kenya in partnership with Tusk, a prototype Defender—fitted with an integrated raised air intake and wrapped in a camouflage design devised for the surroundings—helped to track radio-collared lions and transport supplies. The Conservancy, one of Kenya’s largest, is home to some of Africa’s most iconic and endangered species. The sanctuary utilizes a holistic mix of tourism, ranching, and other enterprises to support the livelihoods of the human population while enhancing the integrity of the ecosystem. Tusk operatives were able to put the Defender through its paces in a series of real-world scenarios that included river crossings, towing heavily-loaded trailers, and negotiating challenging terrain 58 slmag.net
encompassing flat plains, deeply rutted tracks, steep rocky inclines, muddy river banks, and dense forests. “Working with our partners at Tusk in Kenya enabled us to gather valuable performance data,” said Nick Collins, Vehicle Line Director for Jaguar Land Rover. Charles Mayhew MBE, Chief Executive of Tusk, added: “The new Defender took everything in its stride, from deep river wading to climbing rocky trails.” Land Rover has been an official partner of Tusk for 15 years. While the test program was influential in tweaking the new Defender, it also presented an opportunity to highlight the critical situation faced by lions across Africa. Over the past century, the number of lions living in the wild across the globe has dropped from 200,000 to less than 20,000. Today, black and white rhinos outnumber the big cat in Africa. The new Land Rover Defender is scheduled to make its world premiere later this year. sl
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H p H hooray
Clockwise from top left: Irene Neuwirth turquoise Lilly of the Valley hoops ($18,740; ireneneuwirth.com). Hueb Romance earring with pearl drop (hueb.com). Large Signature Swinging hoop earrings from Rush Jewelry Design ($3,830; rushjewelrydesign.com). Brick Brigade hoops from Era Jewelry ($880; erajewelrydesigns.com)
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Clockwise from top left: Bianca hoops from Marrow ($3,250; marrowfine.com). Gemstone hoop earrings from Bassali Jewelry (bassalijewelry.com). Motty hoops from Nora Kogan ($2,860; norakogan.com). Lotus Samsara floating hoops from Ananya (ananya.com). Jemma Wynne Prive pearl and diamond hoops ($5,460; jemmawynne.com).
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A TWOFER FOR TOWNEND AT THE LAND ROVER KENTUCKY THREE-DAY EVENT
The prestigious event is one of six annual Five Star Eventing competitions in the world, and the only one held in the United States Written by Caylee Matthews / Photos by Tony Bailey Following a nail-biting finish decided by the last jump, Great Britain’s Oliver Townend became just the fourth person to defend his title in the 41-year history of the Land Rover Kentucky ThreeDay Event. The prestigious event was staged at the Kentucky Horse Park, the only theme park in the country dedicated solely to horses. Townend logged a perfect performance in show jumping aboard Cooley Master Class, a 14-year-old Irish Sport Horse he has been riding since the horse was four. “We’ve had the horse from the word go, and it’s a huge team effort,” said Townend. “So much effort goes into it, not just on my part. The horse has had a checkered career, and we’ve finally got him on top form. We’ve always believed in the horse, and it’s thanks to everybody at home putting in a huge team effort. It was just my job to push the buttons at the right
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point in time. I couldn’t be more proud of the horse and the whole team.” Originally staged around the world to test the fitness and finesse of cavalry mounts, today the sport is an equestrian triathlon, consisting of three distinct elements: Dressage, CrossCountry, and Show Jumping. The winner is the horse-and-rider combination with the fewest combined penalties in each of the disciplines. Governed by the Fédération Equestre Internationale (FEI), the Land Rover Kentucky Three-Day Event has been ranked as a Five Star Eventing competition, designating the highest level of competition that has been awarded to only six events in the world. Referred to as “The Best Weekend All Year,” the event also serves as the Land Rover/USEF CCI-5*-L Eventing National Championship presented by MARS EQUESTRIAN.
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At the Land Rover Kentucky event, riders vie for their share of $400,000 in prize money as well as the elusive $350,000 Rolex Grand Slam of Eventing, which is awarded to the rider who wins Land Rover Kentucky, Mitsubishi Motors Badminton and Land Rover Burghley Five Star Events in succession. Townend took home a check for $130,000, a one-year lease on a Land Rover Discovery, and a Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust watch. Following his fault-free show jumping round riding his 12-year-old Trakehner gelding, owned by Christine Turner, American Boyd Martin finished in second place. Speaking of his 64 slmag.net
steed, Tseterleg, Martin remarked, “He’s probably not the fanciest horse here but he’s an absolute gutsy little trier, and that counts for a lot.” Tim Price of New Zealand riding Xavier Faer rounded out the top three. When they aren’t taking in the action, fans shop and browse the nearly 200 booths in the Sponsor Village and International Trade Fair. Land Rover also sponsors a tailgating competition and off-road test drives. A fundraising dinner benefitting the event’s official charity, The Bluegrass Land Conservancy, as well as a twilight 5k race are included among the varied spectator experiences. The 2020 event is scheduled for April 23-26. sl
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A FAMILY AFFAIR Interior design Ron Wolz of Bittners brings his “A” game to create a multi-generational masterpiece in Prospect Written by Bridget Williams / Photography by Rachel Lutz/Andrew Kung Group Which comes first, the children or the chic home? Fortunately, for the owners of this Prospect-area home, this age-old design dilemma is a non-issue, thanks to their reliance on the expertise of interior designer Ron Wolz of Bittners. At any one time, three generations of the same family fill the home laughter and love, and Wolz has managed to comfortably accommodate every member of the family without sacrificing style. “This is a house that was designed to be lived in,” said Wolz, pointing out his application of durable upholstery and patinated casegoods that can stand up to daily use. 66 slmag.net
Left and opposite page: The stone fireplace in the family room provided the inspiration for the earthier color palette. A pair of Muhammad Ali's boxing gloves rest on the book matched rosewood coffee table. Desiring maximum impact with minimal clutter, Wolz was judicious in outfitting the space with pieces boasting a sculptural quality, such as the Klismos-inspired armchair from Baker.
Throughout the home, Wolz juxtaposes contemporary furnishings with Africaninspired art and accessories. In the family room, the lines of a faux bois table lamp from Baker are echoed in the contemporary painting.
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Comfortable armchairs in the lower level media room allow for multiple room configurations.
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Contractor Martha Wolford worked with Miller's Fancy Bath & Kitchen as well as Century Entertainment & Living to create the classic white kitchen, which is outfitted with a suite of Thermador appliances. The silhouette of the Visible Comfort chandelier mimics the bistro-style pendant lamps above the quartz-topped island. Wolz said that the unique patina of the table in the eat-in kitchen makes it ideally suited to stand up to the wear-andtear of everyday dining.
Below: A family heirloom restored by the craftsmen at Bittners, Martin Luther King, Jr. once sat with members of the family at the dining room table. Using it as the focal point of the room, Wolz contemporized the table's classic styling with Osborne & Little wallpaper, a Tibetan geometric rug, a two-tier Aerin Lauder chandelier, and a Madagascar rosewood console.
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The husband's preferred escape for reading and quiet contemplation, the masculine lines of the paneled study are juxtaposed with upholstery fabrics that have a soft hand, including velvet on the sofa and shearling on the accent chairs. The handscreened black-and-white material used for the window treatment is closely related to the drapery in the adjacent family room.
Opposite page: An artfully composed vignette in the family room showcases a photograph from Adam Shulman's GOLD OF AFRICA series, which was shown at Moreman Gallery as part of the 2017 Louisville Photo Biennial.
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A comfortable seating nook in the second-floor master bedroom overlooks the rear of the verdant seven-acre property, which is further enveloped by farmland.
Below: Wolz said there was a boys-versus-girls family debate over the color scheme for the lower level. Shades of teal and purple preferred by the girls won out; Wolz tempered the vibrancy with light grey walls and neutral upholstery on the sectional. All of the room's colors come together on patterned footstools from Designer's Guild.
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MEAT ME IN LEXINGTON Talking steak, seafood and everything in between with Tony Ricci, proprietor of Tony's of Lexington
Written by Bridget Williams / Photos by Rachel Lutz, Andrew Kung Group Turning adversity into opportunity, Tony Ricci opened his first eponymous steakhouse in Cincinnati in 2010. By flawlessly executing a recipe that combines impeccable service with outstanding steaks and seafood, Tony's of Cincinnati rapidly gained renown as a regional dining destination. Capitalizing on this momentum, in 2014 Ricci began scouting locations for a second location, when a property on The Square in downtown Lexington presented itself, and the rest is history. We recently sat down with Ricci to discuss his career trajectory and what it means to have been able to "steak" his claim in the Bluegrass.
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Tony Ricci
SL: First of all, congratulations on your continued success in Lexington! TR: Thank you! SL: Remind us of what piqued your interest in the restaurant industry. TR: I believe that the hospitality industry has always been a part of me. My Italian upbringing has a lot to do with it. I started working in a retirement home as a junior in high school and found that my hospitable interactions with the residents came naturally to me. Soon it became a personal relationship with some of them, and they appreciated the level of service I provided so much so, that two of them rewarded me with a scholarship for my first semester in the hospitality program at Florida International University. SL: Did/do you have any mentors? TR: Not really. There was something about the hospitality field that allowed me to extend the hospitality of my heritage to total strangers. If I had to name a mentor, I would say my mother. Just like in the Italian movies that we've all seen, no matter what time I would bring friends over, she would always have food or be prepared to make some. She was an awesome cook and the most congenial hostess. SL: What was it that prompted you to open the first Tony's? What did you learn from your first endeavor that you applied to subsequent cities? TR: It was during the most recent economic downturn that I lost my position with another company. After a year or so of dabbling in other ventures, I found myself out of work once more, with a family of five to support and very little money left. I met with some friends, and one of them asked, "Why don't you do what you're great at, open a restaurant?" So I did, and now I have three. I have been blessed. SL: What prompted you to choose Lexington for your second steakhouse? TR: It was a conversation with one of my investors, who is a big 76 slmag.net
supporter of my Cincinnati restaurant. He was having dinner on a Friday night a few years after I opened in Cincinnati, and when I went to his table, he asked if I'd like to do another restaurant in Lexington. When he told me that the location was right across from Rupp Arena, I said: "Where do I sign?" My wife and I visited Lexington the following Sunday and began putting the deal together that Monday. I actually signed the lease before I had any additional investors committed. SL: What makes Tony's unique? TR: Quite simply, it's a fun place to have dinner. Aesthetically, we are not your typical cookie cutter chain steakhouse. We provide an urban chic atmosphere that is welcoming, friendly, eclectic, and most important, extremely humble. Our menu is diverse enough to offer something for everyone, and we feel that our standards of quality and service are unparalleled. SL: How do you maintain the high levels of service that Tony's is known for? TR: I am very grateful that all three of my restaurants have a management team and staff, both back and front of the house, that truly believes in our philosophy. Providing a great product at a fair price and delivering it in a timely manner is a pretty standard mantra for the industry. We take it a step further by desiring to have such an impact on our guests that they trust us to visit a second, and then a third time and so on. The genuine attitude that we have in providing service, coupled with the humility that is portrayed in its delivery literally develops a personal/professional connection with our guests that in essence makes us a trusted source for dining. You can add to that an uncompromising adherence to quality and consistency. Lastly, tables are touched by our management team throughout dinner to ensure that we are living up to our standards.
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SL: By nature, the menu at a steakhouse is pretty static. Is there any seasonality to what is offered at Tony's? TR: Yes, there is, with certain items such as salads, sides, and toppings. Along with that, we run specials created by our chefs that take advantage of seasonal items. Our current menu offerings have become so popular with our guests that changing them would cause a stir.
SL: Are you looking at opening Tony's in any new cities? TR: Yes. A week does not go by that I don't receive an email or two regarding a project that is being developed. I'm very grateful for their confidence in us. For the short term, I want to keep future restaurants within driving distance of Cincinnati, where our corporate headquarters is located.
SL: Are there any unique aspects to your bar program? TR: My beverage team is very talented. We just initiated a summer drink list that is offered in all three Tony's restaurants. Aside from that, each restaurant has its own offerings, and I like it that way. For example, in Cincinnati, our restaurant is located in a bedroom community, and for some reason, Italian and French wines don't sell as well. Due to the transient guests in Indianapolis and Lexington, where the restaurants are located in downtown, European wines do better, which in turn prompts us to have a greater selection at those locations.
SL: How has the dining scene in Lexington evolved since you've opened? TR: I do feel that with all of the projects that are in store for downtown Lexington, it will lend itself to an expansion of eateries. At what level remains to be seen. I appreciate the support that the Lexington community has given us these past four years. I am truly privileged to be here and honored to serve our guests, many of whom have become friends. sl Open for dinner at 5pm daily, Tony's of Lexington is located at 401 W. Main Street. For more information or reservations, visit tonysoflexington.com.
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